I used to flush with diesel but I did it different; I would drain old oil and add straight diesel then start the engine and let it idle for one minute. I would then wait for twenty minutes with engine off to let the diesel get into any sludge etc. I would then restart the engine and let it idle for another minute then shut engine off again and wait another twenty minutes. I would then restart for one minute, shut engine down and drain the diesel then add new oil and filter. Waiting the two twenty minute periods allowed for the sludge to breakdown and come out/off. I found this system worked well with no noticable problems.
Diesel has No Engine protection additives. You let Run Diesel Like Mineral oil as Base oils with Low Sulfur (more Sulfur would be better as at older additives and Mineral oils the Engine protection is Sulfur based). Additional friction via Paraffines. That's all. If you do Not have Ester oils recipe in use the additive Package let Stick the Engine protection additives on the Metal surfaces. With Diesel you wash them away and even Cover the Engine protection layers created, with something the fresh Motor oil need to Work on. Addinol offered Flush oil for years and decades and now offers one of the best Maybe the best Engine Flush Treatment. If your Car has a egine with ACEA A3/B4, API SN, ... 5w40 Spec Give the Addinol Super Light 5w40 with API SP, MB 229.5, VW 502 00, etc. a chance. The cleanest engines got Addinol.
Thanks for the advice. Was sceptical at first. Added 6l of diesel to mine did the same. Went I looking like mountain dew came out looking like coca cola. No more problems at sump pickup for now. Good temporary fix 👍
I bought a used Porsche with about 55,000 miles on it and took it to an oil change shop that offered a heated solvent oil flush that filtered the solvent through a large pleated white filter that was connected where the oil filter was. I was able to watch the solvent go from its original clear color to a brown color as it dissolved away sludge and deposits from the engine. After that I had a fresh oil filter and some cheap conventional oil of the proper viscosity put in that I ran for about a day. After that I changed the filter again and then put in high quality full synthetic(Redline) oil. The engine ran like a champ for over 150,000 more miles, using very little oil between oil changes.
Dear Mr. Jim Nesta. Hai Sir..., I'm from India, I own a Volkswagen POLO Diesel Engine Car. It has completed 40.000 Miles on Road. (2013 Year Car) I maintain the vehicle with utmost care. (Change the Engine Oil regularly for Every 10,000 Miles) Now the car is due, for Engine oil change. Do you suggest, me to Flush the Engine, for better performance. Please advise me. Thanks & Regards 🙏 Prasad reddy
@@prasadreddy5421 Hari Bol Prabhu, I would be more than pleased to offer whatever suggestions that might be of help. With the low mileage on a later model car, on which you've done regular oil changes, I would guess that the amount of sludge buildup is minimal, unless you happen to see sludge under the valve cover when you remove the oil filler cap. I would not waste money on that procedure now, although it certainly would not hurt the engine to do it. I believe that your money would be better spent on going with more frequent oil and filter changes, despite the factory's recommendation of 10K on the interval, especially since diesels are inherently dirtier running engines. Use the best quality filter you can find and prefill it with oil before installing. One good thing you can do is to have a used oil analysis done on a sample of oil you've taken from oil you have drained at oil change time. There is an American company called Blackstone labs that will mail a small oil catch bottle which you fill and send back to them. They then do a chemical analysis on the oil and give you a simple plain language summary of the results, how the engine is wearing and the condition of the oil. It's an inexpensive service that can give you the best information and advice on selecting a good oil change interval. I hope this information will have been of help. Please accept my humble obeisances. Your servant,
@@videomaniac108 🙏 Jai Shri Krishna 🌹 Hai Jim Sir., Thanks for your reply to my question. 🙏 Please kindly, send Email Id of BLACKSTONE Company, who is doing Used oil Testing. So that, I can get it done, Thanks and Regards 🙏 Prasad reddy
I flushed my turbo twin airplane with diesel fuel then I loaned it to my ex-wife and her pilot husband to visit his mother in Florida. It made it to Arkansas before the engine seized at 12,000 ft. Good Job and thanks for the tip. and I don’t care if you do call it Diesel gasoline.
I've been flushing engines with diesel for over 50 years, always good & never ruined anything. The old red ATF worked well and so does Marvel Mystery oil. Too many people who complain about the results were trying to resurrect a shot engine looking for some magic, then blame the diesel or whatever solvent they tried in desperation.
@@modarkthemauler thanks! Oil changes are going good and everything seemed to be getting better, but just got that warning light- would it come on after getting sludge out and be bad?
that means, over caring for your vehicle will still damage its engine... im planning to do this on my motorcycle which has properly maintained by frequent early oilchanges...if i do this one i might damage the seals as well as the engine..thanks for this video sir.. by the way..diesel helps me clean the chain and engine easier..added with dish soap liquid ofcourse
Se dang, but good thing I saw this because I just got a truck with a ton of moisture in the oil. No bubbles in radios, no bad exhaust, and resonator on the 2.9 inline 4 had a bit of water. It’s a gmc canyon but it sound good so I bet it’s the pcv orface. And since there’s a ton of sludge I want to clean it out. Guess I’ll try and get most of it out and then let the engine do its thing on evaporating moisture. Maybe two oil changes.
My '04 Ford Escape developed a loud, very noticeable ticking sound after it warmed up. One needs to understand the inner components working in an emgine. In my case, as well as many other vehicle brands, lifters are designed to operate in an independent manner between valve openings. There's a small port opening on the side that gets covered up upon required use of the lifter to open the valve. If that port becomes plugged from sludge (failure to change oil and filter at regulate intervals, or sediment contamination from outside source), the lifter can be stuck full of oil (solid lifter) or won't let any oil in at all, creating what's called, a flat lifter. There are many products on the market that help clean and flush the engine internally. All contain the same desired chemicals. Solvents and or detergents. Whatever the differences of these product solvents and detergents are is irrelevant. Their performance is what matters. Marvel Mystery Oil is a great engine cleaner. Use exactly as directed. In the case of my Ford Escape, my mechanic (Very trustworthy, capable and reasonable guy) told me to add a quart of transmission fluid to the engine, on top of the oil already In the engine. Start and run (at IDLE ONLY) for 30 minites. Drain the oil and remove the filter. Put new oil in and new filter. Drive for 100 miles. Change oil again. Within 5 minutes of the engine warming up, the lifter noise disappeared. Transmission fluid has excellent lubrication and detergent properties. I have not had a problem since. Using diesel fuel in the manner and quantities described in this video is safe. As with the transmission fluid technique, run the engine at IDLE ONLY. Don't rev it up. Don't drive it. Otherwise, everything the method he used is perfectly acceptable. The best method overall is to use high quality oil, high quality filters and change them often. Brand new cars under warranty should be changed regularly by the dealership. After warranty, continue to change oil regularly and flush at least once a year or so. With whatever technique you feel comfortable with.
Unknown to me, my engine was sucking transmission fluid into the engine. I drove it for weeks with a mixture of transmission fluid and oil. Didn't seem to hurt it...
@altpotus6913 Transmission fluid being sucked into the engine sounds like a transmission issue. Automatic transmissions once used vacuum to shift. I honestly couldn't tell you if that's the same on newer cars, as everything is going to sensors and computers. So I would have to think there's a leak in the transmission, allowing transmission fluid to be sucked up by the vacuum of the engine. That leads to it getting directly into the cylinders and being burnt off. It won't hurt it. But in the long run, you'll spend more on adding T fluid and the T not operating at full, designed capacity. Which may affect longevity.
@@MNJay1 I agree. Transmission fluid was sucked into the engine via a faulty vacuum modulator, but I didn't see any smoke. However, the engine oil level kept increasing and had a decidedly red hue. I unplugged the line from the carburetor to the modulator and the problem went away. I also was able to stop adding fluid to the transmission. Go figure...
After flushing the diesel/oil mix, you MUST then add the minimum amount of oil to safely run the engine and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Then drain that oil. This will assure that ALL of the diesel fuel has been drained. If you don't do this extra step you will have too much diesel remaining in the crank case and throughout the engine. Then when you add the final new oil the viscosity rating of that oil will be changed in a very negative way and during the next few thousand miles you will be slowly damaging and wearing the bearings out in the engine from that lower viscosity. You will not have the proper protection if its diluted with that left-behind diesel fuel from the first flush.
@@francisbegbie1008 ....bad idea. NEVER add anything to any oil, ever. No oil additives. This is a suckers product and manufacturers love that people buy it to make the customer THINK they are helping the issue. If your engine is not running right, burning oil, or making noises....then fix the mechanical issue the engine has and then use the correct oil. There are no band aids when it comes to oil.
@@2ndAmendProtector Features & Benefits of Wynns Super Charge Oil Treatment Stops excessive oil consumption Strengthens the oil film, especially at high temperatures Restores engine compression Increases the oil pressure Quietens noisy engine and reduces exhaust smoke Provides a perfect lubrication of heavily loaded engines (e.g. when towing a caravan, in the mountains, on the motorway, at high temperatures, etc.) Improves engine performance Is compatible with all mineral and synthetic, single- and multi-grade oils Does not harm catalytic converters
@@francisbegbie1008 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA......anyone who believes adding something to oil restores COMPRESSION is a moron. Compression loss is a mechanical breakage or wear issue. Increases oil pressure, YES SURE, so will adding honey, its just changing the viscosity to make it thicker. Higher oil pressure is meaningless without OIL FLOW. Ignorant people buy this garbage. PATHETIC that in the year 2022 there's still these joke, worthless products on the market. As long as theres ignorant people, there's garbage snake oil products.
I've flushed out multiple high hp engines with diesel fuel with great results. The diesel will break down the sludge,not clog oil passages as most commenters are suggesting. Remember,the diesel fuel shouldn't be in the engine for more than a couple minutes. Drain and then flush with fresh oil 2-3 times.
add a liter of diesel. run the engine for a minute. drain put diesel run the engine for 45 seconds to a minute (idling at 700 to 750 rpm) that's already clean. drain use air compressor and blow to drain diesel(with dirty oil) further put drain plug back put new oil. (best if synthetic)
Best bet to add 1/2 a qt or a full qt of marvel mystery oil or transmission fluid to the oil about a few days, up to a week worth or 100 to 500 miles of running the engine before you change it then just change it like normal. Can do this every oil change and it will keep your engine squeaky clean on the inside. I change oil and filter every 5000 to 7000 miles and have been doing this for many years. I've got a little over 400,000 on my Dakota with original engine and no rebuilds, and it doesn't use a drop of oil between changes and it still runs good. I've used different kinds of engine flush in the the past, including diesel, and found that MMO or transmission fluid, either one works best.
my dad retired from GM after 30 yrs. he did this exact same thing. the weekend before the next oil change he added 1 qt of atf to the engine. check the stick to make sure its not overfilled. run normally for the next week. the following weekend change the oil. every single time we drained the oil, it was darkish amber with a little reddish tint. engine was an olds 308. never a problem, never rebuilt, ran great for 500k+ miles until he sold it. took the valve cover off a time or 2 to make sure the valvetrain & rockers were tightened properly, and that was the cleanest top end ive ever seen. pristine. atf is a good idea, diesel fuel not so much.
in the 70 and 80,s we just used to buy a cheap oil and run the car on that for 100 miles then change it for premium oil. And that cheap oil is good to use again for flushing at a later date.
I used to do the similar method, where i used to drain the old engine oil, fill the engine with Diesel and then half crank the engine not letting it start for maybe a second or half and then used to drain it and blow the high pressure air from input and have it remaining diesel and vapors comes out from drain plug and then pour the new engine oil and change oil filter. Never faced any issues, engine used to run light.
I recently did 2 quarts of atf in my 6 qt oil capacity engine ran it for 1000 miles. Didn't see anything come out but when I was pouring the oil container out of the oil catch pan into the oil waste bin quite a few clumps of stuff came out so I did another flush with new filters, nice and clean no clumps.
I use also mixed diesel fuel and engine oil to flush my 91 corolla. Been doing it for five years now so far the oil seal and gasket ar still good. I di this procedure once a year
@@ikhilvarghese1119 not at all sir i do this also to my 2009 honda beat scooter and my 2006 suzuki shogun 125 mopped. I never experience any oil leaks on my engine. And btw oil seal are still original. The engine parts are still original.
Honestly this is bullshit most any engine suspected of negligent oil changes but running ok could ever need is: 1. Drain old oil 2. Remove Oil pan and oil pickup tube. 3. Brake clean the fuck out of Oil pan, pickup tube and pay special attention to the mesh on pickup tube. 4. Put everything back together with fresh seals and gaskets. 5. Fresh oil + fresh oil filter 6. Drive as usual for 1000km 7. Fresh oil + Fresh oil filter 8. Continue a oil change interval the manufacturer recommends by the book, but ignore it if recommends more than 10 000 KM - Change oil at least every 10 000 KM
Thanks. I have been using 50 50 diesel + oil as flush for years. So I get half diesel mixed with new oil to make it good flush then once flushed drain and refill with synthetic.
After draining the diesel and oil mixture, I would have added another couple of litres of fresh oil to flush out any diesel fuel remaining in the base of the sump just to be safe
Not true. You should see all the solids and carbon that came out of my engine after 6 months driving and only 3000 km after flushing with bg 109 also a major performance increase
@@mustardncress1 Flushes leave your bearings bone dry. Scoring your rotating surfaces for a few seconds before proper lubrication. If you have carbon build up, your pcv valve may need to be replaced or you dont drive long enough to get your car up to temperature.
Marvel Mystery Oil and Diesel together might be an ultimate combination. I usually put one quart MMO in at every other oil change. It keeps the internals clean and working perfectly without ever having to flush the engine. It’s done well for 30 years of me doing this.
@@lawrencefranck9417 that’s ok. It lubes, cleans, smells good, great on salads, doesn’t burn the eggs. What more could you want. I did ad lib a little, BTW. 😱
I see alot of negative comments about flushing an engine with diesel fuel and I can guarantee you this works. If you have a neglected engine with sludge or your oil had water or coolant enter the oiling system, this is the way to go. I've been doing this for years on marine engines.
I’m not sure if you will see this I had a head gasket leaking into my oil and once fixed and drained oil. It was very milky. Would you recommend using diesel to clean all?
@@waltercordova7728 yeah, I would drain the milky oil and put a gallon of diesel fuel in and only run the engine for less than a minute. I'd run diesel 3-4 times until clean. Then do a oil change at least twice. Change the filter each time with fresh oil. Works great, assuming there is no internal damage from before.
There is a product called WYNN'S ENGINE TUNE-UP. Put it in your oil follow the instructions. A 5$ product developed by a reputable company. You could also used seafoam, MMO, among others. Only use stuff that is compatible with motor oil and does not destroy it. If you can't drive with the stuff in the crank case don't put it in.
Peter B. I used it also it worked great in 440 roadrunner,455 Buick ,1.6 tracker and my 2004 3.8 Grand Prix and small block chevys , or I added pint of diesel night before I do oil change every 1or 2 years and use a good quality filters and oil and change synthetic every 6000 -7000 km not 20000 km that not being your own ex-spent
I flushed my old vw golf with new oil and just 0.5 liter of diesel. Ran it att fast idle for 15 min and the oil was really dirty afterwards so I guess it worked. The loud valve ticking also disappeared.
You will tell us when your valves burn out and a head gasket or the whole head cracks. You cook on gas, work on diesel and drive on petrol. My experiment on gas destroyed an engine within 10000km. And that was mercedes. So only some engines work with lpg. But eventually they all go with a bang.
In the good old days, I had a GM Australian cast iron straight six on CNG. Ran it on the special CNG oil, which I think was just diesel oil with a different label. I had to change the cam fibre gear and yes, could have eaten from the timing gear cover.
Most of this is common "Old School" tech, and hardly needed today. In the 60's, detergent oils had come of age, but nothing close to what we have today. Engine flushes were the norm for engine longevity. My grandfather maintained all his fleet of logging trucks, heavy equipment and personal vehicles by flushing regularly. And yes... he did this with straight diesel fuel. As others have commented, he let an already warm motor idle (and ONLY idle) for about 5 minutes, then drain, replace the filter and refill with fresh oil. I could see this still being used if you bought an older engine of unknown condition and wanted a maximum flush, but most oils today do pretty good at cleaning on their own, and synthetic more so.
it is worse today due to low tension rings. Only a little sludge cause them to stick in piston lands. The rings have lower friction and a tad better gas mileage. Not worth the trade off. Check you dipstick and if your oil is getting dark change it regardless of 2000 mile or 10,000 miles and won't have to worry about flushing (which won't work for stuck rings too late)
My grandpa explained to me that in automotive school he was taught 2 different ratios of diesel : engine oil you’d run after draining the original oil and before adding the new oil during an oil flush. It wasn’t straight diesel but the first was 3 parts diesel 1 part oil. Then half and half, idling for about 20 minutes each time. Then your new oil and filter. on an old engine he said that would have your dipstick reading perfect golden oil for the next 50,000km
Most diesel sold at the pump today contains a certain low percentage of biodiesel. The biodiesel improves fuel lubricity that is lacking when sulfur compounds are removed during refining to meet clean air standards. The biodiesel, essentially methyl esters, is a powerful but non volatile solvent that breaks up grease and sludge very well. Too well, in some cases, ask in when large diesel ferryboat fleets switched to high biodiesel blends and then experienced rapid clogging of fuel strainers and filters, leading to engine shutdown from fuel starvation.
Iv used this method for 20 years, , with high mileage cars and low mileage, leaving the diesel in the motor up to a week for a full thorough clean, results are amazing. , motor wise, very quiet and more responsive, , ........
4:12 yea but how much pressure was it making huh? Healthy engine can survive this kind of flush, but some may not, especially those without brass cam bushings.
I worked with a man in the 70s that did this same thing with kerosene,, drained the oil,, filled it with kerosene.. ran it for just a couple of minutes .. drained that and then re-added oil .. He said when the kerosene was drained it looked like the oil that had just come out.. so I think your system is just fine.. and youre the first person to repeat this except using diesel fuel..
I flushed my crankcase with diesel this week and the amount of grit that flushed out was incredible. Will be looking for oil leaks but I don't think the diesel was in there long enough to cause any problems.
You didn't say how much diesel fuel you put in your engine. I hope not a crankcase full. Diesel fuel has no anti wear or anti scuffing additive, so you could score the camshaft lobes and lifter faces.
Just use Marvel Mystery Oil. It's cheap and it works. Diesel like you said can damage seals. MMO won't but basically does the same thing. The last thing you want to do is harm the rear main.
If you guys are skeptic about the diesel, just do the red ATF method. Ive had some luck with an older, but newer car to me. For these past three oil cycles, every two or three fill ups I add a black bottle of stp injector cleaner at the Chevron, and before an oil change, I drive about a 100 miles with half a quart of ATF, no super spirited driving but conservative and revving out some of the gears but not all. Go home, let the car idle for about 8 minutes. Add more ATF, let it heat soak over night. Check fluid, rinse and repeat again. When I took my filter off there was a decent amount of carbon deposit particles on the filter. That is my experience on a 2013 K24W1 EarthDreams Motor that with 160K miles
I actually saw someone flush a Isuzu engine using straight diesel fuel . All I can say is it worked for my friends dad . He drove the little truck everyday for a few more years .
It doesn't undo the damage caused by not changing oil. It breaks loose all the sludge and plugs up the oil pickup screen. Then you spin a bearing, seizing the crank
What I do during oil changes is that after the oil stops dripping, I will pour 1/2 quart of fresh oil to push any remaining old oil in the pan and it works.
I had a mechanic tell me that a little sludge in the engine is not that big of a deal. You can drive over a 100,000 with a little sludge and it won't hurt the engine. If you flush the engine and clog up the oil pump screen that vehicle shouldn't be driven even a 100 feet. Time to remove the oil pan and repair it! In 1988 I bought an old 1978 Chevy Monte Carlo, which was my first car. I just started changing the oil every 3,000 and that cleaned a lot of stuff out. A worn-out timing chain was the biggest issue I had to deal with. A worn-out timing belt or chain can destroy your engine just as much as sludge!
That tells me, you don‘t know a lot about Cars. Frau Filters are Made in the same Factory as Mann and Bosch. They are made by Freudenberger, a german company. Bit the factory is in Romania.
I fully agree with your flushing video using diesel fuel. Years ago I was driving a Pontiac Grand Prix with a 400 cubic inch engine. I was cash poor and only changed the oil occasionally, never before 10,000 miles But every other year I flushed the motor with 4 quarts of Diesel and 1 quart of fresh Pennzoil I then added 5 quarts of straight 30 weight Pennzoil. I drove the car 465,00 miles without any kind of engine failure.and never had the heads off. To this day I still use Pennzoil, but now with my PTGT ( turbo) I use 5 30 weight oil ( factory recommended viscosity ) It is a 2003 model with 184,00 trouble free miles.Thanks for sharing...Mr. Randolph.
I did this on a 4 wheeler that went a lot too deep. I filled the crank case completely and drained it a couple times before I brought it to proper level and actually ran the engine. I also flushed the diesel out with oil until it smelled normal.
On time scheduled oil changes with usage of synthetic motor oil and synthetic oil filter, while using the correct motor oil type and amounts, also might have to top up every now and then between oil changes, will keep the engine clean and well lubricated, which will keep it running well for long long time without issues or very little issues if any.
@@CupwakeRBLX : Only dumb and cheap people say things like, there is no such thing as synthetic oil filters or that all oil filters are the same. There is such things as synthetic oil filters and also non synthetic oil filters. Synthetic oil filters are made to last upto 10,000 kms of driving, due to synthetic oil lasting up to 10,000 kms on each oil change interval, and the filter is made to be used with synthetic motor oil. Non synthetic oil filter are made to last up to 5000 kms of driving, due to non synthetic oil lasting up to 5000 kms on each oil change interval, and is made to be used with regular motor oil. The oil filter makes difference, due to what materials it's made from, the synthetic oil filters has fiberglass and cotton materials in it, but the regular oil filter has just paper material in it.
Yea that just happened to me I brought the glove with me and forgot to do the glove test on the car that I bought. So now I'm not sure if i should take out the PCV or do the flush first.
Well flushing the motor also keeps its longevity though. No matter how frequent you get em, you still get a residue and grime left over, just very very little. But obviously that can build up over time too.
My old man was a diesel mechanic, started in the Korean war, He would drain old, fill with diesel, run engine for 10 or 20 seconds, drained and fill with oil again.
Yeah, that wasn't really enough to do anything. And that oil change ended up contaminated with that 10-15% volume of undrainable oil/diesel in the fresh oil. Then that ran for x thousand miles and the owner probably lost 10-20K life of engine.
@@jasonbeatty4108 god you really are an idiot. It was first shown to you in the actual video then, this fella tells what it literally is and you still go ,,what is mixture of both". Sorry mate I hope you just young, otherwise not much hope for you. I'll try my 3rd time lucky: it's a mixture of diesel and petrol poured into crankshaft case to thin out the soot, then drained and then theres fresh oil poured in. Do you understand or should I go Latin?
@@lipeeno try it yourself and you tell us how it worked out for you...and how many times you had to change oil afterwards.. I would not put any FUEL in my engine crankcase...thats just stupid... any why do they not do it anymore...why is it not a "thing"... it does more harm than good... that "soot"...might as well be fine sand...
@@kiyoponnn : Run the engine until the engine reaches normal operating temperatures, then add in 1 or 2 liters of the atf and run it for 30 minutes at idle speed, with the atf in it, the high heat will melt the sludge to liquid state, and the atf will further help with the cleaning from the inside, since atf is highly concentrated with cleaning liquids, additives and lubricant. Then wear gloves and drain out the motor oil while its hot, then remove the old oil filter. Keep the drain plug and old oil filter out, let it just drip out for the next 20 to 30 minutes, to prevent leftover old oil from contaminating the new oil and filter. Install the new filter, put in the drain plug with new crush washer, add in the correct type and amounts of motor oil. Its usually best to use quality synthetic motor oil and synthetic motor oil oil filter, since its going to be driven for twice the distance, as compared to a regular oil change with regular motor oil and regular oil filter Only few exceptions for using regular motor oil and filter, either the manufacturer calls for regular oil and filter or if you are working with low budget. Also if you are not going to be keeping the car for long, lease return or getting a replacement car with lower mileage and in better shape.
@@kiyoponnn : I would not worry about the oil pump, since the heated up sludge will be in a liquid state, and with the atf it will further clean the insides of the motor, and comes out with the old oil and other impurities thats in the motor. The oil filter will catch the impurities, and not let the impurities circulate throughout the motor. The oil pump will have a metal screen at the pick up tube end, located inside the oil pan, the screen prevents larger impurities from getting in, while the oil filter catches the finer impurities.
The engine oil also have detergent agent that can clean up all carbon deposits in the engine.just change the engine oil frequently follow the range of mileage.
Good method if you're trying to clean a really dirty engine. If it's not so dirty I'd recommend flushing the engine with regular oil, meaning just change it more frequently
Alot of comments say do your oil changes at 3,000 miles, if you do that from the beginning you wont have sludge. Well lets say you got a vehicle that was neglected, or say you dont know the history of it. And the vehicle burns more oil than usual. The vehicle has high miles & has sludge. What's the "safest" method of flushing? Diesel? Transmission fluid? Liquid Moly engine flush? Which flush would be least likely to affect seals? Its a 2010 Chevy Traverse. 3.6L.
I don't live in U.S so maybe I am wrong but that oil filter you are using is extremely shit quality. I would rather reuse my good oil filter again for one more time then to use this Fram filter if saving money really was the case. But oil and filter is cheap, engines are expensive so don't compromise on these things.
Use BG EPR to flush your engine. I've used it and it works wonders. My 2008 Accord had a wonky transmission when I bought it. $200 worth of BG transmission flush and trans fluid and it was fixed.
I did this to my 64 Ford Galaxie 351 Windsor motor which used to smoke like hell, I drained the oil, put in 5 quarts diesel fuel, let it run until the engine temperature got hot, drained it, put in new oil and filter, drove it for a couple of days, then changed the oil and filter again and car never smoked after that and it ran great for 1000's of miles after. I kept the car for 3 more yrs after doing that, I'm not sure if I would do that to some of these newer engines today but it did the trick in the old engine???
Use Amsoil engine flush then use a cheap synthetic for the next 3000 miles. It'll be plenty dirty after cleaning the engine. Then use a premium synthetic like Amsoil and watch leaks go away and oil use stop over the next 5000 miles. Same thing with the transmission using flush and Amsoil synthetic fluid. BTW, there's nothing like synthetic for saving wear and rejuvenating seals. Use Amsoil or the best filter you can find. Never had an engine that didn't use less or no oil doing this. Notice how synthetic lubricants have been on the rise as the only manufacturer lube since the early 90s? There's a good reason for that and superior lubrication is the reason. A low mileage vehicle changed to synthetic lubricants will last much longer. And these days it's mandatory in most new equipment.
I prefere ProTec Engine Flush and Rewitec Powershot S/M/L. The Last cleans the Piston Rings, redo the whole friction surfaces (metalceramic revitalisation) and let the Engine run smoother, while the rough VW JX Engine of the VW T3 1.6 TD bacame a completely new/different much smoother Engine. The Peugeot 2.0 V16 XU Engine, Base Engine of the German STW Cup Car (Peugeot 406 German STW) Runs Like a Turbine then.
Dont do this people.. Just buy cheap oil, add the recommended amount of seafoam in it and change it a few time in short intervals. This method is causing long term damage, not to mention you are maximizing your chances of sludge getting loose and blocking oil passages.. you really thing all the sludge will come out of that little drain plug ? ......
I'm no mechanic but 1 thing for sure - it's impossible to fully drain a modern engine, there are nooks and crannies that always hold. See any disassembly video - stuff on the floor, maybe a few cups. That diesel is going to be in your oil for many, many oil changes ahead.
Comments and people are so stupid ! Flush the engine with diesel is a wellknown practice. But people prefer to buy "THE" product sale in the best shop of their town and this product will transform their engine in a very good caramel !! :-) Nice video dude.
well known where? Diesel "fuel" is not for flushing anything.... better off using kitchen oil. What is well known young man is transmission "fluid"!... Best way to plug up lifters and scar up bearing journals is to use diesel "fuel"... that carbon that flakes off of piston tops where removing a head off of a engine...is the same thing that happens in a crankshaft oil passage when a cleaner is used in any combustible engine
Now drive the car for around 100 miles then change the oil and filter again. The solvent has loosened crap in the engine that's now stuck in the filter and some solvent is still in the oil that was trapped in the oil pump. You will be surprised how dark the oil is after such a short time. I've done this many times on high mileage motors but Marvel Mystery Oil 100 miles before oil change does the same thing and it's gentler on the valves and rings. Take too much crap out too fast and you'll end up using oil and having leaks. Diesel is cheaper but MMO is better. It's your car and money.
Can’t say I’ve done this in petrol cars, but my diesel Passat wagon and ducato motorhome have had a diesel only flush done every 3rd service. Passat only has 110,000km on it (66,000 miles roughly) but the motorhome over 280,000km. I only run the engine for a minute or so, not 5, then drain overnight and new oil and filter next day. These used to be dirty diesel engines but now take several thousand km’s before the oil turns black, where it used to happen instantly. Not sure on petrol engines as they seem to run clean, but for diesel engines my father taught me this trick to prolong engine life and it’s worked for him, and seems to be treating me well
Only thing I would do to get better oli flow is drop the oil pan and check, clean oil pickup tube . Make sure the oil pickup tube screen isn't being blocked with sludge. Would not recommend this video method.
Fill up through the dip stick let it sit for a day then drain the oil ,don't run it through the engine,if you need to clean the engine then run half crt trans fluid through it for 100 miles then change the oi,but for the own and screen just soak it then drain but don't fill the pan past the upper pan seal you wanna be below it a little,justsayn
For an older engine that hasn't seen regular oil changes in a long time this might be ok. I had a 57 Willys Jeep that saw nothing but non detergent oil. I did this several times as the engine was so gunked up it wasn't funny. What I got out of the engine was unbelievable. Would I do this to a properly maintained vehicle? Not on your life unless it was severely neglected.
if the engine hadn't been severely neglected before running diesel in the crankcase it would be after... when I worked in shops I watched a mechanic kill an engine by doing this.
@@sidiadams2023 you're just flushing out old oil with a lighter grade of oil. Don't worry about it. As long as the engine isn't under strain while u have the diesel in it, the diesel will provide adequate lubrication
Way back before all the magic of chemistry We used to put in one quart of diesel, starting with a hot engine and we were usually down a quart anyway, run it for a couple of minutes and then change oil and filter. Not sure how good it was but We were usually way over on our change. Remember We were young, dumb and broke.
I watched my grandfather pour straight coal oil in his cars and drive it about 2-3 miles. He didn’t take any oil out but added the pint of coal oil. Said if the tappets weren’t ticking you didn’t do it long enough. Run it out hot. He said that he learned it working on a farm driving tractors. He also said that the tractor he drove was struck by lightning with him on it. Burned all of wiring off and broke the globe to the shut off filter. They left it there and worked around it.
The best thing to do is change your oil every 5k miles with full synthetic oil. I have a 2008 Toyota Highlander with almost 300,000 miles and the engine sounds and drives like new.
MrStropparo and the film strength of transmission fluid is just like if not more than motor oil. Diesel fuel has no lubricating capabilities what so ever so I feel this is doing more harm than good.
MrStropparo , I had a Chrysler ASE certified mechanic tell me the same thing about using tranny fluid to clean the engine. In fact, he highly recommended it! He said if your engine holds 4 quarts of oil, for instance, replace one quart of oil with a quart of tranny fluid and then drive the vehicle as you normally would for about 500 miles and that will sufficiently clean the engine. A lot of old school mechanics use that trick as well.
A gallon of WD-40 is the best for flushing engines. Crank it but don't start it several times letting it sit for 10 minutes or so in between. You'll be shocked with the results of what comes out when drained, and how much wuieter and smoother your engine will run.
Many moons ago when men were men and goats were nervous, I did this on an Onan 2 cylinder air cooled engine. The result was that it needed a rebuild thereafter. I'd sooner do an extra oil change in between the scheduled oil changes and flush the engine that way, much safer and kinder to the engine
Yeah, I used to know some perty goats. I also worked on horizontally opposed Onans. How did you know it was sick, I remember a lot of banging, vibration, heat and howling. Couldn't figure if they were happy or angry, though I do think they wanted a piece of me.
I used to flush with diesel but I did it different; I would drain old oil and add straight diesel then start the engine and let it idle for one minute. I would then wait for twenty minutes with engine off to let the diesel get into any sludge etc. I would then restart the engine and let it idle for another minute then shut engine off again and wait another twenty minutes. I would then restart for one minute, shut engine down and drain the diesel then add new oil and filter. Waiting the two twenty minute periods allowed for the sludge to breakdown and come out/off. I found this system worked well with no noticable problems.
Diesel has No Engine protection additives.
You let Run Diesel Like Mineral oil as Base oils with Low Sulfur (more Sulfur would be better as at older additives and Mineral oils the Engine protection is Sulfur based).
Additional friction via Paraffines. That's all.
If you do Not have Ester oils recipe in use the additive Package let Stick the Engine protection additives on the Metal surfaces. With Diesel you wash them away and even Cover the Engine protection layers created, with something the fresh Motor oil need to Work on.
Addinol offered Flush oil for years and decades and now offers one of the best Maybe the best Engine Flush Treatment.
If your Car has a egine with ACEA A3/B4, API SN, ... 5w40 Spec Give the
Addinol Super Light 5w40 with API SP, MB 229.5, VW 502 00, etc. a chance.
The cleanest engines got Addinol.
How much diesel fuel did you use
@@dennishurd470 3.8 liters oil capacity so this is what I would have used.
Thanks for the advice. Was sceptical at first. Added 6l of diesel to mine did the same. Went I looking like mountain dew came out looking like coca cola. No more problems at sump pickup for now. Good temporary fix 👍
I bought a used Porsche with about 55,000 miles on it and took it to an oil change shop that offered a heated solvent oil flush that filtered the solvent through a large pleated white filter that was connected where the oil filter was. I was able to watch the solvent go from its original clear color to a brown color as it dissolved away sludge and deposits from the engine. After that I had a fresh oil filter and some cheap conventional oil of the proper viscosity put in that I ran for about a day. After that I changed the filter again and then put in high quality full synthetic(Redline) oil. The engine ran like a champ for over 150,000 more miles, using very little oil between oil changes.
Dear Mr. Jim Nesta.
Hai Sir...,
I'm from India,
I own a Volkswagen POLO Diesel Engine Car.
It has completed 40.000 Miles on Road.
(2013 Year Car)
I maintain the vehicle with utmost care.
(Change the Engine Oil regularly for Every 10,000 Miles)
Now the car is due, for Engine oil change.
Do you suggest, me to Flush the Engine, for better performance.
Please advise me.
Thanks & Regards
🙏 Prasad reddy
@@prasadreddy5421 Hari Bol Prabhu,
I would be more than pleased to offer whatever suggestions that might be of help.
With the low mileage on a later model car, on which you've done regular oil changes, I would guess that the amount of sludge buildup is minimal, unless you happen to see sludge under the valve cover when you remove the oil filler cap. I would not waste money on that procedure now, although it certainly would not hurt the engine to do it.
I believe that your money would be better spent on going with more frequent oil and filter changes, despite the factory's recommendation of 10K on the interval, especially since diesels are inherently dirtier running engines. Use the best quality filter you can find and prefill it with oil before installing.
One good thing you can do is to have a used oil analysis done on a sample of oil you've taken from oil you have drained at oil change time. There is an American company called Blackstone labs that will mail a small oil catch bottle which you fill and send back to them. They then do a chemical analysis on the oil and give you a simple plain language summary of the results, how the engine is wearing and the condition of the oil. It's an inexpensive service that can give you the best information and advice on selecting a good oil change interval.
I hope this information will have been of help. Please accept my humble obeisances.
Your servant,
@@videomaniac108
🙏 Jai Shri Krishna 🌹
Hai Jim Sir.,
Thanks for your reply to my question. 🙏
Please kindly, send Email Id of BLACKSTONE Company, who is doing Used oil Testing.
So that, I can get it done,
Thanks and Regards
🙏 Prasad reddy
@@videomaniac108 Thank you so much Mr. Jim Nesta 🙏
Jai Shri Raam 🌹
I flushed my turbo twin airplane with diesel fuel then I loaned it to my ex-wife and her pilot husband to visit his mother in Florida. It made it to Arkansas before the engine seized at 12,000 ft. Good Job and thanks for the tip. and I don’t care if you do call it Diesel gasoline.
Lol
seems it worked and they are happy now lol
Lol 😂
Lol
Jaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
I've been flushing engines with diesel for over 50 years, always good & never ruined anything. The old red ATF worked well and so does Marvel Mystery oil. Too many people who complain about the results were trying to resurrect a shot engine looking for some magic, then blame the diesel or whatever solvent they tried in desperation.
How would you know if it’s shot before you try?
@@bet6467 Engine oil pressure low when it's up to temp is one way to tell.
@@modarkthemauler thanks! Oil changes are going good and everything seemed to be getting better, but just got that warning light- would it come on after getting sludge out and be bad?
@@bet6467 No idea. The low oil pressure meaning a engine might be worn out is from older cars that still had gauges that showed oil pressure.
@@modarkthemauler ok thanks!! I’ll keep my fingers crossed!
Thx for mentioning that flush is rough on seals & gaskets. Not everyone knows that.
That’s a baaaad idea if it could cause gaskets and seals to leak in future which will lead to more expensive repairs in the future.
that means, over caring for your vehicle will still damage its engine... im planning to do this on my motorcycle which has properly maintained by frequent early oilchanges...if i do this one i might damage the seals as well as the engine..thanks for this video sir.. by the way..diesel helps me clean the chain and engine easier..added with dish soap liquid ofcourse
Rough on bearings too
Always add a couple quarts of cheap oil when you do thisto prevent damage.
Se dang, but good thing I saw this because I just got a truck with a ton of moisture in the oil. No bubbles in radios, no bad exhaust, and resonator on the 2.9 inline 4 had a bit of water. It’s a gmc canyon but it sound good so I bet it’s the pcv orface. And since there’s a ton of sludge I want to clean it out. Guess I’ll try and get most of it out and then let the engine do its thing on evaporating moisture. Maybe two oil changes.
If he’s calling it diesel gasoline that should tell you something
Μήπως εννοεί το παλαιότερα λεγόμενο "καθαρό" ή "φωτιστικό" πετρέλαιο; Δεν ξέρω αλλά πολύ περίεργα μας τα λέει ο φίλος!
SAY WHAT ^?
Agreed. I heard of this method but not this incorrect term
If hes using fram filters that should tell you something.
kostas dramoudanis yep he’s an idiot
I did a diesel flush on a Subaru 2.2 with a ticking lifter. Worked like magic (yes 2.2 had hydraulic lifters )
Essentially a 4 wheel motorcycle
My '04 Ford Escape developed a loud, very noticeable ticking sound after it warmed up. One needs to understand the inner components working in an emgine. In my case, as well as many other vehicle brands, lifters are designed to operate in an independent manner between valve openings. There's a small port opening on the side that gets covered up upon required use of the lifter to open the valve. If that port becomes plugged from sludge (failure to change oil and filter at regulate intervals, or sediment contamination from outside source), the lifter can be stuck full of oil (solid lifter) or won't let any oil in at all, creating what's called, a flat lifter. There are many products on the market that help clean and flush the engine internally. All contain the same desired chemicals. Solvents and or detergents. Whatever the differences of these product solvents and detergents are is irrelevant. Their performance is what matters. Marvel Mystery Oil is a great engine cleaner. Use exactly as directed. In the case of my Ford Escape, my mechanic (Very trustworthy, capable and reasonable guy) told me to add a quart of transmission fluid to the engine, on top of the oil already In the engine. Start and run (at IDLE ONLY) for 30 minites. Drain the oil and remove the filter. Put new oil in and new filter. Drive for 100 miles. Change oil again. Within 5 minutes of the engine warming up, the lifter noise disappeared. Transmission fluid has excellent lubrication and detergent properties. I have not had a problem since. Using diesel fuel in the manner and quantities described in this video is safe. As with the transmission fluid technique, run the engine at IDLE ONLY. Don't rev it up. Don't drive it. Otherwise, everything the method he used is perfectly acceptable. The best method overall is to use high quality oil, high quality filters and change them often. Brand new cars under warranty should be changed regularly by the dealership. After warranty, continue to change oil regularly and flush at least once a year or so. With whatever technique you feel comfortable with.
use engine restorer additive
@ConsensusX You probably have problems finishing tasks at work, too. It's OK. That's why there are mechanics.
Unknown to me, my engine was sucking transmission fluid into the engine. I drove it for weeks with a mixture of transmission fluid and oil. Didn't seem to hurt it...
@altpotus6913 Transmission fluid being sucked into the engine sounds like a transmission issue. Automatic transmissions once used vacuum to shift. I honestly couldn't tell you if that's the same on newer cars, as everything is going to sensors and computers. So I would have to think there's a leak in the transmission, allowing transmission fluid to be sucked up by the vacuum of the engine. That leads to it getting directly into the cylinders and being burnt off. It won't hurt it. But in the long run, you'll spend more on adding T fluid and the T not operating at full, designed capacity. Which may affect longevity.
@@MNJay1 I agree. Transmission fluid was sucked into the engine via a faulty vacuum modulator, but I didn't see any smoke. However, the engine oil level kept increasing and had a decidedly red hue. I unplugged the line from the carburetor to the modulator and the problem went away. I also was able to stop adding fluid to the transmission. Go figure...
After flushing the diesel/oil mix, you MUST then add the minimum amount of oil to safely run the engine and let it idle for about 5 minutes. Then drain that oil. This will assure that ALL of the diesel fuel has been drained. If you don't do this extra step you will have too much diesel remaining in the crank case and throughout the engine. Then when you add the final new oil the viscosity rating of that oil will be changed in a very negative way and during the next few thousand miles you will be slowly damaging and wearing the bearings out in the engine from that lower viscosity. You will not have the proper protection if its diluted with that left-behind diesel fuel from the first flush.
Correct
add some of the oil additive like Wynns super engine charge its thick .no need to do a second oil flush
@@francisbegbie1008 ....bad idea. NEVER add anything to any oil, ever. No oil additives. This is a suckers product and manufacturers love that people buy it to make the customer THINK they are helping the issue. If your engine is not running right, burning oil, or making noises....then fix the mechanical issue the engine has and then use the correct oil. There are no band aids when it comes to oil.
@@2ndAmendProtector Features & Benefits of Wynns Super Charge Oil Treatment
Stops excessive oil consumption
Strengthens the oil film, especially at high temperatures
Restores engine compression
Increases the oil pressure
Quietens noisy engine and reduces exhaust smoke
Provides a perfect lubrication of heavily loaded engines (e.g. when towing a caravan, in the mountains, on the motorway, at high temperatures, etc.)
Improves engine performance
Is compatible with all mineral and synthetic, single- and multi-grade oils
Does not harm catalytic converters
@@francisbegbie1008 HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA......anyone who believes adding something to oil restores COMPRESSION is a moron. Compression loss is a mechanical breakage or wear issue. Increases oil pressure, YES SURE, so will adding honey, its just changing the viscosity to make it thicker. Higher oil pressure is meaningless without OIL FLOW. Ignorant people buy this garbage. PATHETIC that in the year 2022 there's still these joke, worthless products on the market. As long as theres ignorant people, there's garbage snake oil products.
I've flushed out multiple high hp engines with diesel fuel with great results. The diesel will break down the sludge,not clog oil passages as most commenters are suggesting. Remember,the diesel fuel shouldn't be in the engine for more than a couple minutes. Drain and then flush with fresh oil 2-3 times.
thats expensive. why not use engine flush oil instead of two fresh oil.
@@johnson3 A gallon of diesel is $3 here.
wtf....just change the oil. fck!
add a liter of diesel.
run the engine for a minute.
drain
put diesel
run the engine for 45 seconds to a minute (idling at 700 to 750 rpm)
that's already clean.
drain
use air compressor and blow to drain diesel(with dirty oil) further
put drain plug back
put new oil. (best if synthetic)
Even the top end flush like liquimolly smell like deisel or kerro
It's okay folks. It was only a Saturn. How much more damage could it cause?
^ valid point
I had a friend who loved her Saturn.
Actually it has a toyota engine in her
wow. her and the 50 other people that own saturns? @@riceburner4747
Better to pour the diesel gas on the outside of a Saturn. Then light and call your insurance Co.😊😅
Best bet to add 1/2 a qt or a full qt of marvel mystery oil or transmission fluid to the oil about a few days, up to a week worth or 100 to 500 miles of running the engine before you change it then just change it like normal. Can do this every oil change and it will keep your engine squeaky clean on the inside. I change oil and filter every 5000 to 7000 miles and have been doing this for many years. I've got a little over 400,000 on my Dakota with original engine and no rebuilds, and it doesn't use a drop of oil between changes and it still runs good. I've used different kinds of engine flush in the the past, including diesel, and found that MMO or transmission fluid, either one works best.
That's the best way I'm sure..your plan works best. And not doing any harm!!!
Just any old atf right?
@@joemoore8421 yes sir
my dad retired from GM after 30 yrs. he did this exact same thing. the weekend before the next oil change he added 1 qt of atf to the engine. check the stick to make sure its not overfilled. run normally for the next week. the following weekend change the oil. every single time we drained the oil, it was darkish amber with a little reddish tint. engine was an olds 308. never a problem, never rebuilt, ran great for 500k+ miles until he sold it. took the valve cover off a time or 2 to make sure the valvetrain & rockers were tightened properly, and that was the cleanest top end ive ever seen. pristine. atf is a good idea, diesel fuel not so much.
@@wilsoncrocker Would you recommend doing this to modern commen rail diesel engines?
Sea foam can be used as a flush. Directions are on the can... it will not damage seals.
What ever you say guys, But his Saturn is in Great condition!!!
When you drained out the mix ….. it looked super clean!!!
I’ve done this & the diesel/oil mix comes out JET BLACK!!!
in the 70 and 80,s we just used to buy a cheap oil and run the car on that for 100 miles then change it for premium oil.
And that cheap oil is good to use again for flushing at a later date.
I still recommend the flush you described, and then use it for another flush or put in my old clunker or lawn equipment.
I used to do the similar method, where i used to drain the old engine oil, fill the engine with Diesel and then half crank the engine not letting it start for maybe a second or half and then used to drain it and blow the high pressure air from input and have it remaining diesel and vapors comes out from drain plug and then pour the new engine oil and change oil filter. Never faced any issues, engine used to run light.
I have done this on a diesel car, and the result was good, no problem at all, I recommend this type of flushing, it is really harmless in my opinion.
I recently did 2 quarts of atf in my 6 qt oil capacity engine ran it for 1000 miles. Didn't see anything come out but when I was pouring the oil container out of the oil catch pan into the oil waste bin quite a few clumps of stuff came out so I did another flush with new filters, nice and clean no clumps.
Engine Restore is safe if you closely follow the directions. Frees up sticky valves and piston rings.
I use also mixed diesel fuel and engine oil to flush my 91 corolla. Been doing it for five years now so far the oil seal and gasket ar still good. I di this procedure once a year
Is there any problem if we use these procedure in a 125cc scooter?🤗
@@ikhilvarghese1119 not at all sir i do this also to my 2009 honda beat scooter and my 2006 suzuki shogun 125 mopped. I never experience any oil leaks on my engine. And btw oil seal are still original. The engine parts are still original.
Honestly this is bullshit most any engine suspected of negligent oil changes but running ok could ever need is:
1. Drain old oil
2. Remove Oil pan and oil pickup tube.
3. Brake clean the fuck out of Oil pan, pickup tube and pay special attention to the mesh on pickup tube.
4. Put everything back together with fresh seals and gaskets.
5. Fresh oil + fresh oil filter
6. Drive as usual for 1000km
7. Fresh oil + Fresh oil filter
8. Continue a oil change interval the manufacturer recommends by the book, but ignore it if recommends more than 10 000 KM - Change oil at least every 10 000 KM
Thanks. I have been using 50 50 diesel + oil as flush for years. So I get half diesel mixed with new oil to make it good flush then once flushed drain and refill with synthetic.
Will this method work for gasoline bikes 110cc
After draining the diesel and oil mixture, I would have added another couple of litres of fresh oil to flush out any diesel fuel remaining in the base of the sump just to be safe
Nah, that just an on-going, permanent flush cycle.
THE ONLY THING YOU NEED TO DO TO EXTEND ENGINE LIFE IS TO DO VERY REGULAR OIL AND FILTER CHANGES. NOTHING ELSE.
Well said.
Thats not always a fact in EVERY engine .
Not true. You should see all the solids and carbon that came out of my engine after 6 months driving and only 3000 km after flushing with bg 109 also a major performance increase
This tard re-use the oil filter, what u expect
@@mustardncress1 Flushes leave your bearings bone dry. Scoring your rotating surfaces for a few seconds before proper lubrication. If you have carbon build up, your pcv valve may need to be replaced or you dont drive long enough to get your car up to temperature.
Marvel Mystery Oil and Diesel together might be an ultimate combination. I usually put one quart MMO in at every other oil change. It keeps the internals clean and working perfectly without ever having to flush the engine. It’s done well for 30 years of me doing this.
i run mmo every winter.
Marvel mystery oil isn’t anything but kerosene fragrance…
@@lawrencefranck9417 that’s ok. It lubes, cleans, smells good, great on salads, doesn’t burn the eggs. What more could you want. I did ad lib a little, BTW. 😱
I don’t know. It’s a Mystery. -VGG
MMO begins to burn after 3000 miles (official information). You have to change your oil every 3000 miles.
I see alot of negative comments about flushing an engine with diesel fuel and I can guarantee you this works. If you have a neglected engine with sludge or your oil had water or coolant enter the oiling system, this is the way to go. I've been doing this for years on marine engines.
@@janisb5522 my comment is not referring to normal running engines dude.
I’m not sure if you will see this I had a head gasket leaking into my oil and once fixed and drained oil. It was very milky. Would you recommend using diesel to clean all?
@@waltercordova7728 yeah, I would drain the milky oil and put a gallon of diesel fuel in and only run the engine for less than a minute. I'd run diesel 3-4 times until clean. Then do a oil change at least twice. Change the filter each time with fresh oil. Works great, assuming there is no internal damage from before.
@@samwhite9894 thank you!
There is a product called WYNN'S ENGINE TUNE-UP. Put it in your oil follow the instructions. A 5$ product developed by a reputable company. You could also used seafoam, MMO, among others. Only use stuff that is compatible with motor oil and does not destroy it. If you can't drive with the stuff in the crank case don't put it in.
Peter B. I used it also it worked great in 440 roadrunner,455 Buick ,1.6 tracker and my 2004 3.8 Grand Prix and small block chevys , or I added pint of diesel night before I do oil change every 1or 2 years and use a good quality filters and oil and change synthetic every 6000 -7000 km not 20000 km that not being your own ex-spent
I flushed my old vw golf with new oil and just 0.5 liter of diesel. Ran it att fast idle for 15 min and the oil was really dirty afterwards so I guess it worked. The loud valve ticking also disappeared.
I run my car on LPG. It is incredible how clean it burns. The engine is bright shiny clean inside, like when it was new.
0 to 60 in 3 minutes
You will tell us when your valves burn out and a head gasket or the whole head cracks. You cook on gas, work on diesel and drive on petrol. My experiment on gas destroyed an engine within 10000km. And that was mercedes. So only some engines work with lpg. But eventually they all go with a bang.
In the good old days, I had a GM Australian cast iron straight six on CNG. Ran it on the special CNG oil, which I think was just diesel oil with a different label.
I had to change the cam fibre gear and yes, could have eaten from the timing gear cover.
@@stevenhall8027 Good, Sir, mind sharing with us the brand or name of the oil you used. Was thinking of doing the same with a toyota engine 1FZ-FE.
Most of this is common "Old School" tech, and hardly needed today.
In the 60's, detergent oils had come of age, but nothing close to what we have today. Engine flushes were the norm for engine longevity.
My grandfather maintained all his fleet of logging trucks, heavy equipment and personal vehicles by flushing regularly.
And yes... he did this with straight diesel fuel.
As others have commented, he let an already warm motor idle (and ONLY idle) for about 5 minutes, then drain, replace the filter and refill with fresh oil.
I could see this still being used if you bought an older engine of unknown condition and wanted a maximum flush, but most oils today do pretty good at cleaning on their own, and synthetic more so.
it is worse today due to low tension rings. Only a little sludge cause them to stick in piston lands. The rings have lower friction and a tad better gas mileage. Not worth the trade off. Check you dipstick and if your oil is getting dark change it regardless of 2000 mile or 10,000 miles and won't have to worry about flushing (which won't work for stuck rings too late)
My grandpa explained to me that in automotive school he was taught 2 different ratios of diesel : engine oil you’d run after draining the original oil and before adding the new oil during an oil flush. It wasn’t straight diesel but the first was 3 parts diesel 1 part oil. Then half and half, idling for about 20 minutes each time. Then your new oil and filter. on an old engine he said that would have your dipstick reading perfect golden oil for the next 50,000km
I didn't see any sludge coming out? I thought that fresh oil was gonna get all dark with all of the sludge but it came out clean, something is wrong
lets all pause for a moment at :06 and admire that Diesel price of $ 2.85 .... RIP
Most diesel sold at the pump today contains a certain low percentage of biodiesel. The biodiesel improves fuel lubricity that is lacking when sulfur compounds are removed during refining to meet clean air standards. The biodiesel, essentially methyl esters, is a powerful but non volatile solvent that breaks up grease and sludge very well. Too well, in some cases, ask in when large diesel ferryboat fleets switched to high biodiesel blends and then experienced rapid clogging of fuel strainers and filters, leading to engine shutdown from fuel starvation.
That doesn't change the fact that running 3-4 quarts out of 5 total isn't going to trash some peoples engines.
I'm quite secure that if u remove the oil pan there is still a lot of dirt
Iv used this method for 20 years, , with high mileage cars and low mileage, leaving the diesel in the motor up to a week for a full thorough clean, results are amazing. , motor wise, very quiet and more responsive, , ........
Well when you start driving something other than a Tesla, no more quiet.
4:12 yea but how much pressure was it making huh? Healthy engine can survive this kind of flush, but some may not, especially those without brass cam bushings.
I worked with a man in the 70s that did this same thing with kerosene,, drained the oil,, filled it with kerosene.. ran it for just a couple of minutes .. drained that and then re-added oil .. He said when the kerosene was drained it looked like the oil that had just come out.. so I think your system is just fine.. and youre the first person to repeat this except using diesel fuel..
I flushed my crankcase with diesel this week and the amount of grit that flushed out was incredible. Will be looking for oil leaks but I don't think the diesel was in there long enough to cause any problems.
You didn't say how much diesel fuel you put in your engine. I hope not a crankcase full. Diesel fuel has no anti wear or anti scuffing additive, so you could score the camshaft lobes and lifter faces.
I wish gas price still $2.43 a gallon.
Just use Marvel Mystery Oil. It's cheap and it works. Diesel like you said can damage seals. MMO won't but basically does the same thing. The last thing you want to do is harm the rear main.
marvel oil is good ...also rislone
If you guys are skeptic about the diesel, just do the red ATF method. Ive had some luck with an older, but newer car to me. For these past three oil cycles, every two or three fill ups I add a black bottle of stp injector cleaner at the Chevron, and before an oil change, I drive about a 100 miles with half a quart of ATF, no super spirited driving but conservative and revving out some of the gears but not all. Go home, let the car idle for about 8 minutes. Add more ATF, let it heat soak over night. Check fluid, rinse and repeat again. When I took my filter off there was a decent amount of carbon deposit particles on the filter. That is my experience on a 2013 K24W1 EarthDreams Motor that with 160K miles
I actually saw someone flush a Isuzu engine using straight diesel fuel . All I can say is it worked for my friends dad . He drove the little truck everyday for a few more years .
Ask him if the diesel fuel has protection for the camshaft and lifters.
the fat frog you forgot the right term diesel gasoline!
It doesn't undo the damage caused by not changing oil. It breaks loose all the sludge and plugs up the oil pickup screen. Then you spin a bearing, seizing the crank
What I do during oil changes is that after the oil stops dripping, I will pour 1/2 quart of fresh oil to push any remaining old oil in the pan and it works.
great advice. safe and cheap. thanks.
Total waste
I had a mechanic tell me that a little sludge in the engine is not that big of a deal. You can drive over a 100,000 with a little sludge and it won't hurt the engine. If you flush the engine and clog up the oil pump screen that vehicle shouldn't be driven even a 100 feet. Time to remove the oil pan and repair it! In 1988 I bought an old 1978 Chevy Monte Carlo, which was my first car. I just started changing the oil every 3,000 and that cleaned a lot of stuff out. A worn-out timing chain was the biggest issue I had to deal with. A worn-out timing belt or chain can destroy your engine just as much as sludge!
The fact that you’re using a FRAM filter tells me everything I need to know. #garbage
Fram is the cheapest option
Show me one engine failure due to a fram filter. Or, just be a parrot making noise.
@@freddyflintstoned913 right 👍
@@chief5981 lol I don't eat beef.
That tells me, you don‘t know a lot about Cars. Frau Filters are Made in the same Factory as Mann and Bosch. They are made by Freudenberger, a german company. Bit the factory is in Romania.
Just love that Saturn doing all that fancy work to it
I fully agree with your flushing video using diesel fuel. Years ago I was driving a Pontiac Grand Prix with a 400 cubic inch engine. I was cash poor and only changed the oil occasionally, never before 10,000 miles But every other year I flushed the motor with 4 quarts of Diesel and 1 quart of fresh Pennzoil I then added 5 quarts of straight 30 weight Pennzoil. I drove the car 465,00 miles without any kind of engine failure.and never had the heads off. To this day I still use Pennzoil, but now with my PTGT ( turbo) I use 5 30 weight oil ( factory recommended viscosity ) It is a 2003 model with 184,00 trouble free miles.Thanks for sharing...Mr. Randolph.
I did this on a 4 wheeler that went a lot too deep. I filled the crank case completely and drained it a couple times before I brought it to proper level and actually ran the engine. I also flushed the diesel out with oil until it smelled normal.
I was thinking of doing it this way too. Did these flushes seem to remove a lot of sludge?
@@vanamee692 all the water for sure. The bike was still new.
Did this guy just put a mix of gasoline and diesel in his engine???
Thank goodness, I'm glad I tried doing it first and yet read all the comments. My engine run's so smooth and saves my gas alot.thanks you
On time scheduled oil changes with usage of synthetic motor oil and synthetic oil filter, while using the correct motor oil type and amounts, also might have to top up every now and then between oil changes, will keep the engine clean and well lubricated, which will keep it running well for long long time without issues or very little issues if any.
There’s no such thing as a synthetic oil filter…
@@CupwakeRBLX : Only dumb and cheap people say things like, there is no such thing as synthetic oil filters or that all oil filters are the same.
There is such things as synthetic oil filters and also non synthetic oil filters.
Synthetic oil filters are made to last upto 10,000 kms of driving, due to synthetic oil lasting up to 10,000 kms on each oil change interval, and the filter is made to be used with synthetic motor oil.
Non synthetic oil filter are made to last up to 5000 kms of driving, due to non synthetic oil lasting up to 5000 kms on each oil change interval, and is made to be used with regular motor oil.
The oil filter makes difference, due to what materials it's made from, the synthetic oil filters has fiberglass and cotton materials in it, but the regular oil filter has just paper material in it.
Just be careful NOT to plug the oil pump pick up screen. If engine oil is changed frequently there is NO need to flush an engine.
Just go synthetic. Change filters at quart add. No sludge, ever.
Yea that just happened to me I brought the glove with me and forgot to do the glove test on the car that I bought. So now I'm not sure if i should take out the PCV or do the flush first.
@@mysticwine 👍🏽 synthetic was designed FOR engines, conventional oil works in engines. Huge difference
Well flushing the motor also keeps its longevity though. No matter how frequent you get em, you still get a residue and grime left over, just very very little. But obviously that can build up over time too.
الديزل لايضرر المحرك !
Work great on swamped quads as well. Saves about 15 oil changes fyi
true enough, in Asia we normally call diesel fuel
I guess that gives your engines a rong rife.
Diesel is a fuel, but it is not a gasoline.
My old man was a diesel mechanic, started in the Korean war, He would drain old, fill with diesel, run engine for 10 or 20 seconds, drained and fill with oil again.
Yeah, that wasn't really enough to do anything.
And that oil change ended up contaminated with that 10-15% volume of undrainable oil/diesel in the fresh oil.
Then that ran for x thousand miles and the owner probably lost 10-20K life of engine.
Sure, I’ll listen to a guy who thinks “diesel gasoline” is a thing.
idiot its a fucking mixture of both
Robert Prefontaine what is a mixture of both?
@@jasonbeatty4108 god you really are an idiot. It was first shown to you in the actual video then, this fella tells what it literally is and you still go ,,what is mixture of both". Sorry mate I hope you just young, otherwise not much hope for you. I'll try my 3rd time lucky: it's a mixture of diesel and petrol poured into crankshaft case to thin out the soot, then drained and then theres fresh oil poured in. Do you understand or should I go Latin?
@@lipeeno try it yourself and you tell us how it worked out for you...and how many times you had to change oil afterwards.. I would not put any FUEL in my engine crankcase...thats just stupid... any why do they not do it anymore...why is it not a "thing"... it does more harm than good... that "soot"...might as well be fine sand...
You like'em educated, that smooth high class talk is what makes you complaint 😂😂😆
Add in 1 or 2 liters of Dexron or Mercon ATF, to the crankcase, then run it and drain it.
Cleans well, and without harming the gaskets and seals.
How long should I run the engine? And what happens to the loosened sludge? Does it block the oil pump?
@@kiyoponnn : Run the engine until the engine reaches normal operating temperatures, then add in 1 or 2 liters of the atf and run it for 30 minutes at idle speed, with the atf in it, the high heat will melt the sludge to liquid state, and the atf will further help with the cleaning from the inside, since atf is highly concentrated with cleaning liquids, additives and lubricant.
Then wear gloves and drain out the motor oil while its hot, then remove the old oil filter.
Keep the drain plug and old oil filter out, let it just drip out for the next 20 to 30 minutes, to prevent leftover old oil from contaminating the new oil and filter.
Install the new filter, put in the drain plug with new crush washer, add in the correct type and amounts of motor oil.
Its usually best to use quality synthetic motor oil and synthetic motor oil oil filter, since its going to be driven for twice the distance, as compared to a regular oil change with regular motor oil and regular oil filter
Only few exceptions for using regular motor oil and filter, either the manufacturer calls for regular oil and filter or if you are working with low budget.
Also if you are not going to be keeping the car for long, lease return or getting a replacement car with lower mileage and in better shape.
@@kiyoponnn : I would not worry about the oil pump, since the heated up sludge will be in a liquid state, and with the atf it will further clean the insides of the motor, and comes out with the old oil and other impurities thats in the motor.
The oil filter will catch the impurities, and not let the impurities circulate throughout the motor.
The oil pump will have a metal screen at the pick up tube end, located inside the oil pan, the screen prevents larger impurities from getting in, while the oil filter catches the finer impurities.
@@theroyalcrownedtiger2946 Ohh I see
@@theroyalcrownedtiger2946 I think you have some brain impurities
Fastest way I know of to plug up the oil passages to main and rod bearings when all the sludge breaks loose.
The engine oil also have detergent agent that can clean up all carbon deposits in the engine.just change the engine oil frequently follow the range of mileage.
Good method if you're trying to clean a really dirty engine. If it's not so dirty I'd recommend flushing the engine with regular oil, meaning just change it more frequently
Alot of comments say do your oil changes at 3,000 miles, if you do that from the beginning you wont have sludge. Well lets say you got a vehicle that was neglected, or say you dont know the history of it. And the vehicle burns more oil than usual. The vehicle has high miles & has sludge. What's the "safest" method of flushing? Diesel? Transmission fluid? Liquid Moly engine flush? Which flush would be least likely to affect seals? Its a 2010 Chevy Traverse. 3.6L.
I don't live in U.S so maybe I am wrong but that oil filter you are using is extremely shit quality. I would rather reuse my good oil filter again for one more time then to use this Fram filter if saving money really was the case. But oil and filter is cheap, engines are expensive so don't compromise on these things.
No shit, literally what I was thinking.
Fram is shit no matter where you buy it in world.
@@RameshKumar-et8cv Liberal old wives tale
Use BG EPR to flush your engine. I've used it and it works wonders. My 2008 Accord had a wonky transmission when I bought it. $200 worth of BG transmission flush and trans fluid and it was fixed.
I was going to do it on my 2004 Scion xB with 302K miles until I heard about the diesel being hard on seals and gaskets. Thanks anyway, good video.
gasoline can damage the oilseal of the engine and it will only cause oil leaking
Just use 100% synthetic motor oil,it is highly detergent and will keep inside of engine clean.
With zero sludge
This is only partially true I know cars that have routine oil changes with synthetic oil only and they are horribly sludged after a 100k miles
@@thunderjet4294 then they weren't actually getting their oil changed by whoever they were paying to do it or not changing the filter
Don't trust those ramps to not collapse. You need steel jack stands for better support. Other than that, good work.
I like how he drops crankcase plug in with the diesel. Maybe he's trying to clean that too lol
in Indonesia also doing the same thing with you, and now it's going viral using cooking oil as a flushing ingredient for the mixture
There is no such product as "Diesel Gasoline". There is Diesel Fuel however. They are not to be mixed together.
@Rob Yorkshire You wouldn't want to do that to your modern diesel engine.
Lol,that's the first thing I noticed.
Ask him if muffler bearings are compatible with Johnson pins.
RIGHT
I like it. Diesel gasoline and petrol gasoline. 👍 Both are liquid before turned into gas in the GASLINE 😋
I did this to my 64 Ford Galaxie 351 Windsor motor which used to smoke like hell, I drained the oil, put in 5 quarts diesel fuel, let it run until the engine temperature got hot, drained it, put in new oil and filter, drove it for a couple of days, then changed the oil and filter again and car never smoked after that and it ran great for 1000's of miles after. I kept the car for 3 more yrs after doing that, I'm not sure if I would do that to some of these newer engines today but it did the trick in the old engine???
Use Amsoil engine flush then use a cheap synthetic for the next 3000 miles. It'll be plenty dirty after cleaning the engine.
Then use a premium synthetic like Amsoil and watch leaks go away and oil use stop over the next 5000 miles. Same thing with the transmission using flush and Amsoil synthetic fluid.
BTW, there's nothing like synthetic for saving wear and rejuvenating seals. Use Amsoil or the best filter you can find.
Never had an engine that didn't use less or no oil doing this.
Notice how synthetic lubricants have been on the rise as the only manufacturer lube since the early 90s? There's a good reason for that and superior lubrication is the reason.
A low mileage vehicle changed to synthetic lubricants will last much longer. And these days it's mandatory in most new equipment.
I prefere ProTec Engine Flush and Rewitec Powershot S/M/L.
The Last cleans the Piston Rings, redo the whole friction surfaces (metalceramic revitalisation) and let the Engine run smoother, while the rough VW JX Engine of the VW T3 1.6 TD bacame a completely new/different much smoother Engine.
The Peugeot 2.0 V16 XU Engine, Base Engine of the German STW Cup Car (Peugeot 406 German STW) Runs Like a Turbine then.
Scotty Kilmer will love this
This Saturn has 2 dip sticks, one under the hood and one on the driver's seat.
LOL, 5 AM and I'm ROTFLMAO>>>>
Dont do this people.. Just buy cheap oil, add the recommended amount of seafoam in it and change it a few time in short intervals. This method is causing long term damage, not to mention you are maximizing your chances of sludge getting loose and blocking oil passages.. you really thing all the sludge will come out of that little drain plug ? ......
What do you think the main ingredient in Seafoam is?
Seafoam isn't good for your vehicle either. Especially in oil.
ltwargssf R What you *really* need to do is just change your oil every 3500 miles.
@@scablifter715 Shark teeth?
I'm no mechanic but 1 thing for sure - it's impossible to fully drain a modern engine, there are nooks and crannies that always hold. See any disassembly video - stuff on the floor, maybe a few cups. That diesel is going to be in your oil for many, many oil changes ahead.
Comments and people are so stupid ! Flush the engine with diesel is a wellknown practice. But people prefer to buy "THE" product sale in the best shop of their town and this product will transform their engine in a very good caramel !! :-) Nice video dude.
well known where? Diesel "fuel" is not for flushing anything.... better off using kitchen oil. What is well known young man is transmission "fluid"!...
Best way to plug up lifters and scar up bearing journals is to use diesel "fuel"... that carbon that flakes off of piston tops where removing a head off of a engine...is the same thing that happens in a crankshaft oil passage when a cleaner is used in any combustible engine
@@jotegg1276 I have used diesel many times in the same way. When four wheelers get flooded with water. I flush out the water with diesel.
Motor flush is diesel so your right
Engine flush is diesel.
A friend of my husband has always used diesel to flush the engine on his 10 year old Jaguar with no problems.
There is a product called seafoam that does the same thing without damaging seals
Never use a conventional fram oil filter. They are cheap and they suck!
Hey!! My girlfriend's name is Fram!
You should have put a little two-stroke engine oil in the diesel.
Now drive the car for around 100 miles then change the oil and filter again. The solvent has loosened crap in the engine that's now stuck in the filter and some solvent is still in the oil that was trapped in the oil pump. You will be surprised how dark the oil is after such a short time. I've done this many times on high mileage motors but Marvel Mystery Oil 100 miles before oil change does the same thing and it's gentler on the valves and rings. Take too much crap out too fast and you'll end up using oil and having leaks. Diesel is cheaper but MMO is better. It's your car and money.
ya rite
@@غريبالدار-ق4م wrong
@@mysticwine y?... the reasons
Can’t say I’ve done this in petrol cars, but my diesel Passat wagon and ducato motorhome have had a diesel only flush done every 3rd service. Passat only has 110,000km on it (66,000 miles roughly) but the motorhome over 280,000km. I only run the engine for a minute or so, not 5, then drain overnight and new oil and filter next day. These used to be dirty diesel engines but now take several thousand km’s before the oil turns black, where it used to happen instantly. Not sure on petrol engines as they seem to run clean, but for diesel engines my father taught me this trick to prolong engine life and it’s worked for him, and seems to be treating me well
I really want to say bad stuff. I'm leaving now.
Ha ha . Yes. Thats how I feel sometimes. Take the path of least resistance and watch some funny videosinstead.
I'm with you I'm leaving this channel
Me too from ph..
Only thing I would do to get better oli flow is drop the oil pan and check, clean oil pickup tube . Make sure the oil pickup tube screen isn't being blocked with sludge. Would not recommend this video method.
I pity your rod and main bearings. Just use a high detergent motor oil meant for diesel engines like Shell Rotella and shorten up the change intervals
my thought exactly...
Motor oils today don’t sludge up like they used to as long as you change your oil regularly. Or, use a synthetic.
Finishes by saying flushing may cause leaks!😕
To be fair, this is a risk with any engine flush. It's not unique to diesel "gasoline."
😂
Fill up through the dip stick let it sit for a day then drain the oil ,don't run it through the engine,if you need to clean the engine then run half crt trans fluid through it for 100 miles then change the oi,but for the own and screen just soak it then drain but don't fill the pan past the upper pan seal you wanna be below it a little,justsayn
For an older engine that hasn't seen regular oil changes in a long time this might be ok. I had a 57 Willys Jeep that saw nothing but non detergent oil. I did this several times as the engine was so gunked up it wasn't funny. What I got out of the engine was unbelievable. Would I do this to a properly maintained vehicle? Not on your life unless it was severely neglected.
if the engine hadn't been severely neglected before running diesel in the crankcase it would be after... when I worked in shops I watched a mechanic kill an engine by doing this.
If the treatment *fucks up the seals-* what's the point?
use only diesel and run the engine on idle for 10 mins. Then drain and replace with fully synthetic oil and a new filter.
Yes I've been doing this for 30years no problem at all
Really?
@@sidiadams2023 yes really . Diesel is light enough to dissolve all the old oil and flush it out but oily enough to lubricate the engine while idling.
And it will not have effect on the oil seals and piston rings?
@@sidiadams2023 you're just flushing out old oil with a lighter grade of oil. Don't worry about it. As long as the engine isn't under strain while u have the diesel in it, the diesel will provide adequate lubrication
Way back before all the magic of chemistry We used to put in one quart of diesel,
starting with a hot engine and we were usually down a quart anyway,
run it for a couple of minutes and then change oil and filter.
Not sure how good it was but We were usually way over on our change.
Remember We were young, dumb and broke.
I watched my grandfather pour straight coal oil in his cars and drive it about 2-3 miles. He didn’t take any oil out but added the pint of coal oil. Said if the tappets weren’t ticking you didn’t do it long enough. Run it out hot. He said that he learned it working on a farm driving tractors. He also said that the tractor he drove was struck by lightning with him on it. Burned all of wiring off and broke the globe to the shut off filter. They left it there and worked around it.
The best thing to do is change your oil every 5k miles with full synthetic oil. I have a 2008 Toyota Highlander with almost 300,000 miles and the engine sounds and drives like new.
Transmission fluid works really well as it’s mostly detergents
MrStropparo and the film strength of transmission fluid is just like if not more than motor oil. Diesel fuel has no lubricating capabilities what so ever so I feel this is doing more harm than good.
Dumber than hot shit
MrStropparo , I had a Chrysler ASE certified mechanic tell me the same thing about using tranny fluid to clean the engine. In fact, he highly recommended it! He said if your engine holds 4 quarts of oil, for instance, replace one quart of oil with a quart of tranny fluid and then drive the vehicle as you normally would for about 500 miles and that will sufficiently clean the engine. A lot of old school mechanics use that trick as well.
A gallon of WD-40 is the best for flushing engines. Crank it but don't start it several times letting it sit for 10 minutes or so in between. You'll be shocked with the results of what comes out when drained, and how much wuieter and smoother your engine will run.
@@SIC-SEMPER-TYRANNIS Sounds an expensive waste of WD 40. I think all this engine flushing is over rated.
I also use Diesel to clean the engine. I always fill it in the old engine oil, works fine.
Many moons ago when men were men and goats were nervous, I did this on an Onan 2 cylinder air cooled engine. The result was that it needed a rebuild thereafter. I'd sooner do an extra oil change in between the scheduled oil changes and flush the engine that way, much safer and kinder to the engine
FYI-for a more relaxing time, give the goats a little chamomile tea. Its smooth sailing after that!
Yeah, I used to know some perty goats.
I also worked on horizontally opposed Onans. How did you know it was sick, I remember a lot of banging, vibration, heat and howling. Couldn't figure if they were happy or angry, though I do think they wanted a piece of me.