@@seangowan7441it’s not mentioned on the bottle but others on the internet recommend after using this and drain oil, use a cheap oil and filter and drive a few miles or a day and then change oil/filter to what you want to use
Don't use this product if you bought a car with a neglected engine. All that gunk gets released too fast. Just change your oil more frequently to even out the process.
What we did was 5 short oil changes (2500km on a 14 year old car with close to 250,000km on it and oil blacker than a cave on a moonless night) The first oil change was black, the second was what I'd consider dirty, but not too bad. The 3rd change was 1/2 strength liquid moly for 15 minutes at the end of the 2500km run, before which the oil was actually not too bad, being slightly dirty, but still a dark amber color, but after the liquid moly was added the oil was blacker than the first change, but not "gritty". I repeated this after another 2500km, and the oil was initially much cleaner, probably similar to my 4 year old car with 80,000km, but after the liquid moly it was pretty dirty. The final full strength flush 2500km later was a little scary it was so black, and after that flush we did pour 1 litre of oil through to flush out the gunk in the oil pan before replacing the drain plug. but then we returned to the standard 10,000km oil changes and the oil comes out dark, but still with a definite amber/oil tint, so yes it got rid of a lot of buildup, but also caused the engine to use a slightly larger volume of oil between changes, maybe 300ml per 10,000km, vs being maybe 100ml low (So much we never bothered filling it). The engine did sound a lot quieter, with no tappet noise at all
@@lithgowlights859 it probably used more oil because the gunk was cleared out and there was more clearance for the oil to escape or get by the rings and such. Just like if you use a solvent or cleaner to clear out the combustion chamber it lowers the compression. The build up is cleared out and the combustion technically gets larger with out all the buildup
Why Liqui Moly says leave the engine to idle is because it is a detergent, not a lubricant. Oil's ability to lubricate is decreased with this additive, but cleaning ability is greatly increased, so running it at load can in worst case harm the engine.
@@montisino it is, but be sure to use another product from them called "Motor Oil Saver" after the flush. You add it in with the new oil. It will keep the seals from drying out.
@@jacquesbotha3923 I have a vw passat b7 2.0tdi with 292'000km. I'm looking to flush the engine at around 300'000km and add some ceratec to it. Car has had an oil change every 15'000km and is belt driven... shouldn't harm it? I don't have oil consumption at all
After doing some internet research about the Liqui Moly Engine flush I desided to give it a try. Just had my regular oil change in an Alfa Romeo 156 Twin Spark and wow! Engine runs MUCH smoother than before! Obviously is impossible to see the difference in a closed engine but you can really hear and feel it! Even my mechanic was impressed from the result! Just make sure to leave it on a idle engine for 10 minutes, then drain the oil and change the filter and finally top up with the new fresh oil. Such a nice product! Highly recommend
@@BagusWibisono don't expect to see any visual difference. For sure you will hear and feel the difference though after the oil change. Everything will run much more smoothly. Specially if you do the procedure after the second oil change. Think of it as having a shower with and without soap 😂 Also if you go to a premium service center like porsche lexus etc they always use an engine flush before the oil change. Just make sure to leave it enough time to drain before you screw back the oil pan plug.
Wow I’m about to really invest in products like these. Own the car and as long as you take care of the car the car itself will treat you and your family nice and won’t cost much money. I’m the type of guy that will run my car until it gives up. My 2010 Kia is at 220k and still running strong just did oil change and fuel treatment on every oil change as well, synthetic oil keeps my cars engine smooth and quiet as possible. Engine air filters and cabin filters changed when it’s visually can’t see the sun from the other side.
as a mechanic - you can use this. but use it as a economic way to keep a car that has been neglected running. A Engine thats been kept in its intervals and got a oil change every 10k miles shouldnt have that much oil coal buildup anyways.
I used this product on a NC mx-5 1.8 that had covered 80,000 miles. Two years later having added 20,000 to it and it felt smoother and oil consumption over that period was nil. I was impressed.
@@JGrindel you could pop open the valvecover (install a new gasket) if its all black then maybe it could be done. but normaly when the oil is changed often enough/is still clean then it shouldnt be needed at all. my peugeot 205 1,1 with 173k is still pretty much completly clean. its all the light brown/amber oil color no black at all. and only thing which has been done is an yearly oil change
This stuff actually saved my motor. Had terrible 10psi oil pressure at idle and lifter knock and ran through so many things of what it could be. Did this as a last ditch effort and it's never drops below 35psi at idle now. This stuff does work but should only be used if having problems like I did.
Some years back, I had occasion to use an engine flush and the results were good. It was a 1991 Pontiac GA with the 2.5 engine with 107k miles and one morning after taking it on a 3000 mile trip, the engine started with a very sharp knock but kept running. When it warmed, the knock was less severe and to me it suggested a varnish problem, probably a wrist pin. I flushed per the directions and refilled with a different brand of 5w30 oil and the knock wasn't there any longer. Sold the car just a year ago with over 240k miles and the engine was quiet with very low oil consumption. It's important to see to refreshing the oil changes once it's been flushed but in the long run, it's a good treatment.
260k miles 5.7 with liquid moly, drained all the gunk, pulled the pan and scraped the residue off and put it back. She runs with more compression now and 5-10% more throttle. Yes it does infact work! Let idle 15 mins before changing oil don’t rev or drive truck with the stuff in your oil just idle.
got an 82 suzuki sc100 from a scrapyard, took the rocker cover off and its built up bad! thought about using a product like this and i think youre videos given me that confidence to try it.
I've been working at engine large and small for 40 years including building some high performance small capacity bike engines for classic racing. Engine flushing oils should be considered like this: On a high mileage worn engine carbon built up in the rings might be actually helping keep a little compression by acting as a sort of seal in the ring groove. Removing this is not a great idea. In a newer low mileage engine that has had poor oil maintenance and is sludged up but isn't badly worn then they are a good idea they can re open restricted oilways remove sludge that hinders oil movement and help speed up oil drain down back to the pan, all good things. lastly on a newer engine which has had good maintenance and is not sludged you're wasting money buying it.
My mechanic says exactly the same thing They build standard and high performance donks for clients. 50k for engines in some cases And that’s what they said to me also. Old engine. Change oil regularly. Newer engines. U can do it. Dragging all that crud through just destroys and engine in no time
That's the problem I'm dealing with I have a 06 Silverado with 300k and it didnt have regular old changes in it until I got it and there is a lifter tapping in it and the oil pressure is a little low but not much all the videos I been watching say transmission fluid flush bit I just dont have very good luck lol
@@Wayno228 Consider doing a 'milder flush' as follows. At the next change drop the oil and add new filter, fill it with a 5-30 semi synth and run it for a week or so especially on a long run so nice and hot but watch you oil pressure just in case. After this drop this oil and replace with the usual and another new filter. I'd add Engine Restore with the new oil. I work mainly on old Jags and this can have a noticeable effect on smoothness of the high mileage ones.
I used this flush in 1999 Jetta 2.0 engine that has 115K miles and after that the engine runs SIGNIFICANTLY smoother. I did this way: 1) add the can in oil and idle run engine as recommended 2) Drain the oil and put the new oil. 3) Idle run engine and drain AGAIN. 4) Now, change filter and final refill with new oil again. - great result. My car takes 4 quarts of oil, so I already had 8 quarts purchased to perform the above... Also, highly recommend couple more things: 1.use a STP fuel system cleaner before this engine flush, lets say a week before, as the fuel system cleaner works after the gas tank gets empty and you refill the gas again... and # 2. Change intake air filter too.
@@chetansharma-jx1ud Hi Chetan, thanks for asking... When I first drain the oil it looked like a milkshake, so I refill with a new oil, let it idle and drained again, why? - just to make sure the old oil with that flush additive is completely out. The instruction on the bottle does not say that, it is my own preference...
@@y0vrs3lf Great! If you also try to clean MAF sensor and Throttle Body - it will run EVEN BETTER! Note: for both, there are 2 different spray cleaners, one is specifically for MAF and the other one exactly for Throttle Body, do NOT mix! Walmart sells both cans as a kit, or check your local auto store...
Engine oil flushes work well with a good product. There's no doubt. It will get more of the gunk and varnish out. Changing the oil while warm also mobilizes more of the old oil out of the system. Liqui Moly probably consists mainly of light naptha. Something like Stoddard solvent; (Mineral spirits, 85% nonane and 15% trimethyl benzene. This solvent thins out the oil, so you don't want to leave it in there, or put the engine under much load, so idling is correct to avoid any metal contact. The oil will become very thin and viscous and 15 minutes or so of idling will break down the lumps and varnish, allowing a better flush when you drain it, getting more of the old oil out also. As you state, it's not an excuse to not maintain your engine regularly and perform oil changes, but is a preventative measure to prevent build-up and varnish that can impact engine operation and wear it out prematurely. Hopefully an engine oil flush extends the life of your engine, and for the cost, avoiding you thousands in repairs down the road, it's probably worthwhile.
Can i use the flush on a 2011 toyota etios diesel engine? Some people say that you should not flush old engines as they are sealed by the sludge and carbon it self, and if you flush it, then it will start to leak.
Even if you bought the engine new, even if you make regular oil changes, even if you are a conservative driver, there is always be build up of sludge inside the engine. Not only due to environment conditions (extremely low or high temperatures), but also to the way various components degrade over time (e.g., seals). This is especially relevant today, as engines are quite more complex, and oil is used to lubricate even more components than just the crankshaft.
I have used this cleaner for years and I trust it 100%. As a matter of fact at times I have changed the oil on my car and after couple hundred miles I go back and just change the oil filter and it still has sludge that was cleaned by this stuff. I have written back and forth with LM engineers in Germany and Im sold in all of their products. As long as they sell this stuff I will buy it.
I have a 2006 Chevy suburban that started smoking at about 200,000 miles thought that I had a major problem seen This flush thing that it was made in Germany and decided to give it a test after the first bottle the smoking went away on start up and now I use the additives and the liquid flush every oil change and I’ve noticed my oil pressure being better and my oil consumption being down I have 262,000 miles on it now and it runs like a top
When I got my car with 77,060 miles on it, I had read the owner's manual and found out that the dealership had only used conventoinal 10w40 oil on a 7500 mile oil change interval after I had been doing 3000 mile oil changes and still having thick pieces of carbon flakes fill up the bottom of my oil filter housing. Turns out a Volvo S60 doesn't like conventional oil unless it is the most basic model without variable valve timing and without a turbocharger. I used this Pro-Line engine flush for about 25 minutes instead of the recommended 10 (?) and when I changed the oil, it started as Castrol Edge 10w30, but became something closer to the color of road tar, but not as thick. After that, I used their Liechtlauf 5w40 and was surprised to see that after 4000 miles, it was still golden yellow, but at 6000 miles, it was a honey color. Once my VVT solenoids went out and I replaced them, I looked in my head and the aluminum was coated in amber yellow like it only had 6000 miles on it to begin with. I have used Castrol Edge 5w30, 10w30, 5w40, 0w40, Mobil 1 5w30, 10w30, 0w40, Pennzoil Platinum 5w40, 5w30, 10w30, Rotella T5 10w30, Rotella T6 5w40, 0w40, and Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5w40, Moly-Gen 10w40, MOS2 10w40, and Top-Tec 4200 5w30 and so far the only oils that doesn't give me any carbon flakes from high heat and stress are the Rotella T6 oils and the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5w40 and MOS2 10w40. I've begun using this now for all my friends who don't understand proper oil changes and even they can notice a smoother running, more efficient engine.
I have a 2004 m/b 320 e and 184000 miles. I just now tried this Liqui Moly in my gas tank and it already runs a lot smoother. Thank you for the advice.
But there was 1 second of footage! I wonder if he left it in... It's a flush that should be done right before changing the oil... Compression after new oil is the real test... Not that I care about compression... But the build up I do... It's just kerosene anyway
Liqui-Moly is the best. I found a Mercedes that had sat in a field for 10 years, flushed everything out, oil, fuel, trans, using their products, and so far have put another 50k on the car without any major rebuilds. Good vid!
Don't just don't if a motor has been neglected than that's a problem this is a bandaid not intended as a fix if the motor is seriously slugged you don't have much to gain and a lot to lose. All that crude will break off, where does it go from there? Inside the motors oil passages, into the main bearings and probably worst of all the oil pump catch screen. This may liquify slugs to an extent but it will not remain in that form for long, these are alcohol based products, the evaporate at room temp (to a degree) a fully warmed up motor is more than enough to evaporate it and what left after a oil change will harden back up. Focus think sludge is only a bad thing but it does have some benefits as it will quiet a loud motor and will also junk up worn out gaskets, if you use something like this the end result could very well be a loud, ticking, leaky mess (which originally existed I will admit) but with the sludge that settles removed from said gaskets causing any previously existing damage to become more obvious (like increased oil leaks). Theres just not a lot to gain, motor oil has a ton of detergent in it the way it is if you have a problem simply change the oil more often that is by far the safest bet the stuff is intended to clean. Best case someone uses this on a motor in good condition to remove some slight varnish, no major sludge exists to be removed so no fear of clogging the oil pump catch screen however there isn't much to gain from this best case either. If you do use this please follow up with a short oil change even if you buy the cheapest oil you can find and run it for 200-300 miles to help flush any remaining lose sludge out it will be worth the added time (assuming you're doing your own oil change).
i agree with you... like in malaysia, EO like shell advance ax7(semi synthetic 10W/40) has it own active cleansing technology in it engine oil... for motorcycle 😁😁 what say you?
I used the liqui Molly engine flush on my E90 and it did clean out quiet a bit of gunk. I just got an oil change every 7500 miles now using liqui Molly engine oil.
I've been using this product on my two Benzs for over 4 years now. I also use it on my clients' cars as well. I don't measure it. I pour the entire bottle in and run it. I use it if it is my first time working on the vehicle. I use a high quality oil. At the end I add Liqui Moly Cera Tec. Cars love this stuff.
Got my car @ 50K miles and used this every other oil change. No idea how well the car was taken care of before me outside the 5K mile oil changes but after the first flush it idled smoother imo. I haven’t had any engine problems yet @ 100K miles
I have had good cleaning results with the use of Extralube ZX1 in the oil in a four stroke engine, and in the fuel system too. Mixing it into 2 stroke oil and running it with fuel in a 2 stroke engine also cleans and lubricates those engines. Extralube ZX1 leaves a smoother surface behind after use which helps prevent dirt and sludge sticking to the metal in the future. Running it in a used engine, driving it for say 1000 miles before draining the oil and changing the fluids will work just as well as an engine flush. Just follow the recommended quantities to make sure you are not over or under treating your engine.
Just to be clear, if your going to flush your engine/transmission do it right, change your oil twice, and your filter once. After you’ve done the initial oil change and put a new filter on, drive for a few miles and then drain the oil again. If it’s still clean your good, if not then go ahead and change it once more. Also it’s typically not a good idea to use transmission flush if yours hasn’t been maintained very well. When people say that oil is the only thing holding it together, that can very well be the case. Seen it happen plenty of times.
@@im-that-guy-pal never said it did. However if it’s been a long time with transmissions or an engine with no change, your gonna discover alot of leaks that you never knew you had before.
Iv used all types of flushes, I think the reason as I found out as to why not put under load is... If your car has a turbo with bad seals the flush thins the oil and risks running up on its oil as fuel did this on a pug 206 diesel bent 2 rods big learning curve, if found 1 litre of atf left in for a week has amazing results
used this engine flush recently on the first oil change of a 1950s diesel excavator in about 40 years. appears to have done a good job, the engine runs noticeably more smoothly, and appears to idle better. the pilot that came out was very poor, and with a strainer rather than a true filter I suspect a lot of gunk was being recirculated
Just used this on my 17 Mini Cooper S with 57,000 miles. Average oil changes have been every 4000 miles prior to flushing the engine. Make sure you mix this with your current oil in the crank case after the engine is up to temp. Idle for 10-15 minutes depending on engine condition. Drain oil. I would suggest using a rinse oil (same weight and type-synthetic, conventional, etc.) but less expensive than the oil you plan to use for the actual oil change). Run that for 10-15 minutes. Then drain and change oil and filter per your standard process. My head was relatively clean prior to the flush but, the flush did quiet the motor down a bit and smooth out the idle, especially in sport and sport+ mode. If you do regular maintenance, flushing the motor should not cause any issues.
Great test. Never used the product but it looks interesting. Had a 1991 Pathfinder, started using Lubegard 95030 Engine Flush before every oil change starting at 9,000 miles. every 5,000 miles the oil was changed. It looked brown but after Lubegard the drained oil looked black. Truck had 260,000+miles on it before the frame broke. Never had a engine problem and the engine was the only thing that worked like new when the vehicle was traded.
Back in the day I bought a junkyard 440 for my 1969 GTX. I changed the oil one time and after about 2,000 miles I added about 1 gallon of Diesel fuel into the engine, drove it about 1/2 mile (slowly and carefully) then changed the oil again. After about another 2,000 miles I wanted to put the Heads, Intake and oil pan from the original 440 on it. When I opened it up I couldn't believe how clean it was inside. It looked like it had never had that black oil I drained out of it the first time. I have also used ATF to do the cleaning chores when I had a hydraulic lifter tick. A cup of ATF into the engine oil and the tick would go away while waiting in a couple minutes. Also Too, I have used ATF in my Diesel fuel to clean fuel injectors. ATF is some kind of extremely high detergent oil. Just not correct for hard driving service alone. But I know it really cleans. ben/ michigan
I think it works great I used xado total flush(wich you run for 150 miles) and then liqui moly engine flush and got a good bit of power back, I also observed lower fuel consumption and lower oil consumption, I actually didn't have to top it off between oil changes on a high milage engine.
Nice work. Regardless of what the counter person at autozone from the comments say, your video was to the point and it does work. It’s a shame that people who changed their oil one time and think they’re a mechanic chime in and talk trash.
I definitely neglected changing the oil in my car. My car eats oil so I just top it off when it needs to be topped off. Did oil change twice a year. So I thought this might be bad for the engine at 350k miles. Gave the flush a try with some regular oil....drained the oil + flush it came out all black.....product seems to do the job....now hopefully my engine has some life left for many more thousand miles.
I use this on my Mercedes E55 AMG and my Jeep Wrangler it works wonders! In fact, I use all Liqui Moly oil products and additives! Opened up my engine to do my valve covers and it looks brand new! Liqui Moly is the best! Their new oil Molygen is the best! Better than any other oil I have used! I also love there certec!
I recently started using LM Octane Booster because except for one brand, none of the premium fuels here have enough octane, or god forbid, more than required... actually I just order a 5-pack after firing through a 3-pack this past weekend :) I looked in to flushes and would use this, but I don't because I have the car serviced at the dealership and of course they don't approve, but if I buy a pre-owned car, I would use this first thing.
We had a customer who bought a very neglected car and tried this product. Long story short he then needed a new motor. He refused to believe us that it wasn't the product's fault and that the motor was gonna die anyway due to lack of maintenance. We use similar products on engines that need it, but if it's really sludged up we make sure the owner is aware of the risks...
When it comes to flushes, Ive only ever seen damage when the oil is older and the flushes inadvertently moves some of the "gunk" to the oil pan, then the pickup is blocked and you get engine damage. Ive used oil flushes (Nulon in particular) for over 14 years on every oil change and its always worked wonders for noisy lifters and getting the most oil out of the engine as possible.
I bought a used 2012 Equinox 16 months ago.... It was using a qt. every 1500 miles.... ran the Liqui Molly treatment now for three oil changes.... Now!! I am over 3000 miles before it's a qt. low.... actually not even a qt. It works.... I've seen the results
Once my engine got seized because of leaky coolant, I added 1.5 litres of low viscosity mobil oil(refiltered)and run the car for a month, it cleared all the oil residue that was stuck on inner surfaces of engine and oil capillaries. Then I drained all and filled with normal engine oil.
How I used it, removed old oil, put in cheap but correct type of oil with the same old filters. Idle till operating temp. Put the flush in the engine, run idle whatever min says it to run. Drain oil and keep the oil nut and filter removed for at least 12hours. Then fill with new oil and new filter. It did a good job
@jxxcool Did you put the Liqui Molly inside your engine while the oild was hot or did you wait for the engine to get cold ? I wanna try this as well. Thank you
I have used engine flush once before. Let the car idle for about 10mins maybe a bit less. Pulled the plug and let everything drain while I inspected the suspension and brakes. Wanted to make sure it drained everything that it was going to. After put the drain plug back in with a new crush washer(first oil change of my ownership). Filled up with formula shell oil and a wix filter. That was well over a year ago.still not a problem.
Plenty of scenarios depending on the engine especially newer. The Ecotec for example not sure about the latest but originally the oil passages were small. It was a known issue that's why they had lifter noise since they're hydraulic.
In theory engine flushs are awesome if they worked as advertised. However what most people dont understand, is that lots of engines have “screen’s” in various parts of the oiling system…. By adding a engine flush, you may clog those screens. Then you starve your engine for oil, and cause catastrophic damage. My advice… only do it as a last resort. Because most engines have screens in the oil pump, and the EGR system… if you clog that up. Bad things will happen. But thats my opinion.
Some people said engine flush will distribute more gunk and spread it into the whole system and that is the whole point of engine flush. It knock off grime suspen it in oil and then you drain it out, then you refill the engine with more new cheap oil and drain it 2-3 times more while let the engine running a few minutes in between each change to fully remove all the gunk and engine flush residue out. You don’t just put a flush and then do only one drain. Just like you clean your plates, you don’t just scrub it up with soap and then place it on the cupboard right away, you gotta rinse it with water to remove the grease and soap off. And yes doing an engine flush is expensive, that is why you change your oil regularly so stuff like that doesn’t happen.
I disable the fuel and ignition system drain the oilreplace plug then add a gallon of diesel fuel.. turn the engine over for a few seconds and let it sit for a few mins and repeat the process a few times. Drain it out and another gallon of diesel turn it over several times pausing to let starter cool down between crankin intervals..drain it over night to make sure its all out. Works great.
Only used flush once, when going from Semi to Fully Synthetic. Used the ORIGINAL Slick50 additive, and that was impressive for friction reduction (quiet engine), but the modern version is useless. If you change the oil on a regular basis you shouldn't get build up anywhere except in the combustion chamber, and maybe a tank of Shell V-Fuel every once in a while would take care of most of that. If additives were any good , don't you think the oil companies would put it in to start with. So to a point in the vlog I certainly agree with, if you think the engine has had a hard life with someone and a flamethrower, sure, go ahead, it makes sense.
What about someone who bought a used vehicle that was not regularly maintained? For instance, an older vehicle that they want to restore. Didn't think about that, did you?
@@GripGarage There is an old engine slow flush option from liqui moly which will softly remove buildup and not all at once so you dont damage sludge engines.
@@K0nst4nt1n96 Bruh, if the engine was poorly maintained don’t bother. I’m an automotive technician and most people get burned this way ad the damage is already done. There’s no way to reverse it besides a rebuild
@@christophervanzetta why not try it? If it works it works and if it doesnt it doesnt? My car had problems with the oil flowback valves and one engine flush did the trick and now they work again. I could have replaced them but 10€ for a flush and it worked fine for me.
Hi, I had problems with my fiat 500 multijet (diesel) with 85K km. The car started to consump far more diesel per mile and was not going as fast as it was. I started with DPF additives. No big change. I proceded with aditives for nozzles. The change was not very significant. I also noticed, the oil at the change was very dirty - black. It's normal on diesels, but this was too much. It's not so old car. When I saw some things about engine flushing on youtube, I bought an engine flusher (Adinol). I took about 1/2 litres of engine oil away and aded Adinol oil flusher. Ran my engine for about 1/2 hour in neutral with pushing throttle up and down and finaly let my oil out. I was surprised at how dirty the oil this time was. I mean - I changed it only 1K kilometers back. I let the oil to get out for several hours, lifting and letting the car up and down - to get everything out. Also changed oil filter. Than have put new oil and filter. When I started the engine and ran it for some time throtteing it up and down, I have checked the oil on my dipstick. It was much cleaner than ever after oil change. After, when using my car, some significant changes occured. First of all - my gas mileage dropped for more than 1 liter/100 KM. The car also seem to be much more alive and fast, but it's hard to say, I haven't do the final test on the highway yet. When the car was new, I made something between 190 and 200 KM/H. Later when problems occured it made 180 KM/H +. Since it's hard to get empty highway, I haven't checked the final speed yet. But my filing is it goes much better, but still not as good as new. I must admit that the greatest job I still have to do - cleaning the intake manifold, valves and EGR valve - be happy for tips. About the engine flushing, I can only say it is a real revelation for me. I can remember several diesels in my life starting running some kind of heavy at mileage above 50.000 KMs. I think engine flushing would have done a great job for them too.
what car do you have? Planning to do it on my passat diesel at just before 300'000km. I don't have any problems with it, just wanna keep it running smooth.
@@sujatmikoafandi no. As a matter of fact, liquimoly flush specifically has conditioners to replenish and keep your rubber seal healthy so they don’t crack. And changing oil frequently at 3-4k miles prevents them from leaking for considerably longer times. This is important especially in BMWs because these drivers ignore the oil changes for 10-15k miles which leads to leaks in so many of the BMWs & then these cars get a bad reputation. In reality, BMW is no more prone to leaking than Japanese cars that are known for their reliability. Japanese cars have very low power output so their mechanicals are not subject to performance level stress so they don’t get leaks and issues… BMWs are performance vehicles so the stresses in parts are two to three times higher tham Japanese low powered cars.
It does remove impurities, but where does it go? I did the operation, the oil pump was clogged, and then the engine stopped and was completely worn out due to the clogging of the oil pump in my car. GOLF 6 GTD
You can do the exact same thing by adding a quart of automatic trans fluid to your oil. When Ford first started using vvt, doing an oil change with a quart of trans fluid and driving for 300 miles was step one in the diagnostic process. No bullshit... That's what Ford says to do. So, you can spend however much on this stuff or just change your oil with one quart replaced with a $3 quart of trans fluid.
That trick is old as the hills. ATF has strong detergents to keep valve bodies, pumps and orifices clean in automatic transmissions. I have a 2005 Nissan Xtrerra with 450,000 original miles , no rebuild. I installed a Fumoto drain valve and remove 20% of the engine oil and replace it with transmission fluid 500 miles before an oil change. I also used the same technique on my over the road trucks( Mack/Freighterliner/Volvo).The all went over 750,000 to 1,000,000 miles before trading in or selling. I use Liqui-Moly products but not the engine flush . It does work and is a good product but the tranny fluid technique I find works better and is very cost effective..Their Mso2 additive and engine oils are excellent. I cannot forget to mention that Marvel Mystery Oil and Rislone Engine treatment are also excellent for engine cleaning. I have experimented with both products versus ATF . They all work extremely well and are very cost effective.
the problem being ATF wasn't specifically designed to clean but to lubricate, it works because of it's relatively high detergent concentration... but you are better off using purpose built stuff, it's going into the engine after all, get the right stuff and it'll do the job you want it to do properly
i change my oil regular and every 5000km, when i opened engine front cover to change damaged water pump, the timing belt and everything around that area was super clean, even at almost 247k kilometers nissan themselves does not recommand using an engine flush, the only solution i found to engine ticking noise is pouring extra 0.5 liter oil, so if nissan recommends 5 liters i just make it 5.5 liters...and it seems to work just fine
After buying a used Prius we noticed it used a good deal of oil on the highway. Using Liquid Moly, synthetic oil, and Restore oil additive, the oil consumption dropped considerably. This isn't a one time deal. We've had to use it again because of the bad design of the piston ring oil supply orifice.
@@andrewspage2777running the car in fairly hard (no redlining or engine braking though) will see everything seal up a lot better and reduce the chances of it burning oil down the track
Bought a BMW 335d with 90k miles. They went with the recommended oil change intervals (1 year/15k miles basically) and it was idling a little rough. Threw some oil flush in on after the fresh oil change the dealer did. Put in lm ceratek and their in spec oil for the car. Night and day difference it definitely took some gunk out with it.
i use it in my 2010 audi a5 (just before changing the oil). i cant prove it helped anything, but it has a lot of good reviews. the 2010 a5 is notorious for oil consumption and failed piston rings. i have not experienced any issues. its cheap insurance.
Doubling the amount makes it an unfair test. I have a 2013 Audi S6. The engine is known to have turbo screen issues causing oil starvation to the turbos. At 100K miles I did my first flush. Oil has always been changed at about the 7,500 mile mark and it holds 8.8 quarts. I drained the oil and drained the filter housing saving 8 ounces of oil. I then added fresh mobil 1 euro with 2 bottles (due to the crank case capacity) and idled it for 16 minutes and drained the oil saving 8 ounces. I compared the first oil with the second new oil with flush and both were the same color, jet black. The oil with the cleaner did run down the sides of the glass containers much faster than without. Given how much "stuff" was pulled out after 16 minutes, I'm certain it did a very good job of cleaning. It made me feel good about the screen being clean.
@@ryanhammerfist5139 I've since gone to 5K intervals. I only change the filter ever other time though. I do drain the filter every time, I have a cartridge type with a little drain plug.
I had a lifter tick in a 4.6L V8 Ford E150 van, which is an OHC engine. It had 75,000 miles on it. Used a full can of this stuff according to directions and the tick immediately went away. Now at 80,000 mi and still no lifter tick and no other problems.
The problem with engine flush is that on high mileage cars the oil pick up can get blocked with the gunk that is flushed to the sump. That being said if you own a low mileage car I'd recommend doing it every oil change to stop sludge build up in the first place
Not a sound mechanical theory. If a low-mileage engine is getting sludge it is because of one of two reasons. The oil is not being changed often enough for the type of driving that is being done. Or the engine itself has an endemic sludge problem. Maybe that engine itself is not suitable for constant stop-and-go and short trip driving. If that is the kind of driving someone has to do, in that case maybe they need to get a different vehicle. It might seen incongruous to change synthetic oil every 2500 miles, but if it is required based on the specific engine and the type of driving that is being done to prevent some oil-related problem, then that is what you do. People think synthetic oil is a miracle product. It isn't. Those extended drain intervals, up to 25,000 miles in some cases, are for vehicles that are driven primarily at highway speeds. Synthetic oil in a vehicle that is not driven enough to even get hot will undergo crystallization. I discovered that in a vehicle I bought a few years back that for years was driven locally only a few miles a week. The son left the same synthetic oil in there for years because his dad was driving very little and he thought it was good for 15,000 miles. Well, it did function as a lubricant but the valve cover area was loaded with crystallization and the rings probably were too. I didn't even know what it was and found out only much later. It was a vehicle that originally used conventional oil and I went back to that and changed it often. The crystallization began to slowly dissolve.
Yes, if an engine has much over 100K miles the dirt might be what's holding much of the engine together in terms of oil consumption. MIGHT, I'd say it's still worth a try, but I'd just do a bunch of oil changes, at very short intervals like around 100 miles. AFter 3 or 4 of those, only THEN i'd dump in the flush.
I’ve only flushed one engine of a used Jeep cherokee, bought it some time, about 20,000 miles then replaced the engine. I have no complaints really, I just do regular oil changes.
I have a direct injection engine. Turbo charged. Engine flush makes a huge difference on how well my engine runs. Noticeable improvement in idol and acceleration. I highly recommend A engine flush.
Before using any engine flush you need to have an idea of the condition of the surfaces inside your engine. If you just purchased a used car and don't know how it was maintained I would not recommend using an engine flush. Years ago I bought a used car and noticed it was leaking oil from the valve covers, not a big problem just get valve cover gaskets and replace them, right. Well once the covers were removed you could see the previous owner did not do preventive maintenance. There was oil sludge everywhere. I cleaned and vacuumed all the build up of sludge that I could get to. I put everything back together, new gaskets, new oil, and new oil filter. The car ran great for about a week when I started to hear a tapping while driving down the road. It was at night and I couldn't see any oil leaking anywhere but I was concerned that the engine had posted it's oil. I pulled into a gas station and bought five quarts of oil into the engine while it was running and then drove home. The tapping didn't stop. When I finally turned off the engine and checked the oil level I found out that the engine oil didn't leak out. There was ten quarts in the engine but by putting the extra oil in the rod and crank bearings were saved by being dunked in a bath of oil as the oil pick up was filled with sludge and the tapping I heard was the lifters being starved of oil. My point is engine flushes work but they may work too well and may cause your engine to fall if you don't know the condition of the inside of your engine. Happy Motoring.
@@Chrisratata Good oils have cleaners blended in them, they just don't do as quick a job as an engine flush would but maybe cleaning up an engine slowly is a better way to go. Just change your oil more frequently and it will clean it a bit each time you change your oil. The only way that I would ever use a flush again is if I was gong to be tearing down the engine to do a rebuild.
Engine flush works great, cleaned my oil ways when sat for 2 years. Perfect oil pressure resumed again. Ran it for 20mins before changing oil and filter
@@ابوباسل-ع5د it's not a mystery, it's supposed to go down into the oil pan, and you do a full oil change after. i mean it's not going to fully flush clean whole inside of the engine, but it helps clean the major buildups.
I believe engine flushes work very well, my only concern is someone buying a used car with some sort of stop leak in the system getting flushed out. Also the variable valve timing systems may be sensitive to things like it
I'm torn as to whether I should do it on my newly purchased 2014 Mini Cooper S with 76k miles. It runs great!, especially after I changed the spark plugs, ignition coils, and air filter and ran intake valve cleaner through the pipe. But in this effort to ensure the car's starting off with as clean of a slate as possible, I'm tempted to flush the engine...then just proceed to take care of all maintenance religiously.
Never seen a stop-leak actually work. At best it might slow the oil loss a tiny bit. These stop leaks have a seal-sweller chemical which can cause main bearing seals to become "wrapped around the axle", literally, which will definitely not help oil consumption
@@Chrisratata Could you share your results if you did this? & If so how often did you have to change your oil to get the black out to normal color oil. Thanks.
Used it on my mercedes 2003 it was burning 1quart every 1 thousand miles . After ,using liqui moly engine flush its at 3 thousand miles and no oil consumption warning has popped up on the dash. Really pricey but its worth it.
it's fine for older engines with high miles but all the new car dealers around here want to put in with oil changes in brand new cars. theres no reason to put it in a brand new engine.
If customers tend to not change the oil on the specified oil change date or milage i’d highly recommend this even if its a new car. Why? Simply because of gunk that gets collected on the engine and we cant see it
Depends on the engine, direct injection petrol OR diesel engines suffer the worst, and worst again if its turbo, and 99.9 percent of engines have egr which doesnt help. Direct injection engines dont get the valves (washed) by fuel at all, as it bypasses them, hence the massive carbon build up on valve stems... but were not talking intake carbon here, oil doesnt flow there so it wonr be cleaned anyways unless u use an intake decarbon cleaner. I use and recommend all the liqui moly products, except rheir oil
@@rjsvids i dont use their oil, for 2 reasons..... not many places stock it here in Australia, and also its extremely expensive here conpared to other high end fully synthetic oils available. If it were priced more competitive and readily available i would use it👌
I just did a Toyota engine flush with my 660cc Japanese Hatchback. Kept the car idle 15 minutes instead of 10 and surprisingly the engine got smoother and I could feel specially cuz I live in the hills. The car was going up the motorway up the mountain with less effort 👌 Plus more mileage.
I wonder if using it a few times at a 5% mix would be more gentle than the 10% mix. My 6g72 twin turbo engine has lifter tick and I want to try to clean it before changing to big bore lifters.
A couple of comments for those who would be tempted to try this on their own lawnmower rather than a car: 1. It is not realistic to use a compression tester on a 4 stroke lawnmower engine as it has a compression release which is active at cranking rpm. This is usually why there is no change after the engine has been worked on. 2. The lawnmower engine is air cooled and runs approx 40% hotter under load than an automotive engine. This means the oil has to be able to handle the lubrication requirements at those elevated temps, and most automotive oils won’t for any extended time. I am not sure if the Liquid Moly will either? 3. I know you were just proving a point but it would not be cost effective on a small engine even if it did work. If you keep the air filter clean and change oil regularly there will be no need.
Liqui Moly is a reputable German Motor Oil company. I really doubt any of their products will harm your engine if used as directed. Last time I checked Liqui Moly makes OEM oil for VW; the world's largest auto maker.
Я из России тоже заливаю vw polo sedan Ликви молли,у нас много поддельного масла в стране,я за рулем 35 лет меняю масла сам,но полностью масло не сливается через пробку при смене 300 грамм остается примерно и оно смешивается с новым маслом при замене
That's not a compliment, v/w have went downhill since the eighties ,too many sensors and electronics,why use additives when their supposed engineering is so good?Would love some comments on vw.
Confused. The description says why you shouldn't use a flush, but, the "after" looks pretty good. Plus, if doing a video of a product, you should follow the directions. Says idle 10min, but instead put it under a load for 10min, could affect the results.
never use any engine flush on hydraulic tappet engines, Ive seen quite a few vauhall engines damaged by engine flush, you might as well put parrafin/kersoene in your engine. loosening carbon deposits and depositing them in bearings and bushings engine flush can do a lot of expensive damage, you were correct in your video saying that two oil changes are better,most lawn mowers are pretty bomb prrof engines not having half the technology of vechicle engines , this is not really a fair test there is no comparison between a single cylinder lawn mower engine and a car engine.
I think I messed up an engine years ago using Rislone Engine Flash. Remember it reminded me of carosiene mixed with alcohol. Think it clogged the lifters. I use some atf before a change. Add a few oz. to the gas every couple 1000 miles or so. I put a few oz in my 10 gallon gas can for yard work too.
I used a home cleaning detergent called AWESOME to clean the inside of my engine. Worked great. I saw a mechanic use it on a badly gummed-up motor on YT.
I have used LIQUI MOLY 300mL MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine treatment on every engine, all lasted over 225-400+ miles I own...(the racing teams use it between pit stops), It's just that good. mustang gt 225k, toyota corolla 400k, mercedes 500 300k, F150 290k, thunderbird 5.0 420k, you get the drift, no sludge if you change the oil and buy OEM filters. oB
I think that changing the oil with the cheapest oil and cheapest filter you can find then follow by synthetic oil soon after will have better results. Just my 2 cents.
My worry is in a modern engine with small oil passages if you use a flush isn't all that buildup/sludge going to have a hard time reaching the pan and possibly block ports.
Yes my theory is the same. I have a chevy 3.6 engine with Modern VVT and direct injection. The passeges are small. When i did timing on it, i pulled out the old VVT Solinoids and they were caked with gunk. I replaced the timing with high quality replacement with new tensioners. I think timing got bad because gunk clogged the tensioners and they werent lubed, as well as the vvt solinoids. I think running an engine cleaner would harm the engine, its at 130k miles. Thinking of running a thinner oil which in theory will flow faster thru the oil passeges and get to where it needs to be faster, versus a thicker oil. Might use very thin oil full synthetic with marvel mystery oil additive, and run for like 500 miles and then change filter and go with a high quality full synthetic 5w30. Just to clean out the passeges and try to get as much out as i can safely.
I'm back here. I take back what I say after a lot of research the sludge that builds up is liquified in a state that is impossible to block stuff. I'm actually going to use this product since I got a new car just as a cleaning thing.
for heavily sludged engines, specially VVT engines I substitute 1 qt of oil with Marvel mystery oil at every oil change at 3,000 mile intervals. 100 miles before service remove 1 qt and replace it with transmission fluid. It slowly breaks down sludge and varnish so the VVT solenoids are not damaged and the oil filter won't become clogged and bypass unfiltered oil. Most of today's engines burn oil by design so it's likely liquid moly will damage o2 sensors, air fuel sensors and catalytic converters.
For more information on Liqui moly engine flush or where you can find it just click the link below.
amzn.to/2LjbehZ
Dear please share is there any hazard of using liqui moly engine flush in car engine?
Is there any damage to the old engine
Should I flush the engine again with oil after I use engine flush to remove the remaining solvents in the crankcase from the engine flush?
@@msaqib79bzu you
@@seangowan7441it’s not mentioned on the bottle but others on the internet recommend after using this and drain oil, use a cheap oil and filter and drive a few miles or a day and then change oil/filter to what you want to use
Don't use this product if you bought a car with a neglected engine. All that gunk gets released too fast. Just change your oil more frequently to even out the process.
Agreed
What we did was 5 short oil changes (2500km on a 14 year old car with close to 250,000km on it and oil blacker than a cave on a moonless night)
The first oil change was black, the second was what I'd consider dirty, but not too bad.
The 3rd change was 1/2 strength liquid moly for 15 minutes at the end of the 2500km run, before which the oil was actually not too bad, being slightly dirty, but still a dark amber color, but after the liquid moly was added the oil was blacker than the first change, but not "gritty". I repeated this after another 2500km, and the oil was initially much cleaner, probably similar to my 4 year old car with 80,000km, but after the liquid moly it was pretty dirty.
The final full strength flush 2500km later was a little scary it was so black, and after that flush we did pour 1 litre of oil through to flush out the gunk in the oil pan before replacing the drain plug. but then we returned to the standard 10,000km oil changes and the oil comes out dark, but still with a definite amber/oil tint, so yes it got rid of a lot of buildup, but also caused the engine to use a slightly larger volume of oil between changes, maybe 300ml per 10,000km, vs being maybe 100ml low (So much we never bothered filling it). The engine did sound a lot quieter, with no tappet noise at all
@@lithgowlights859 it probably used more oil because the gunk was cleared out and there was more clearance for the oil to escape or get by the rings and such. Just like if you use a solvent or cleaner to clear out the combustion chamber it lowers the compression. The build up is cleared out and the combustion technically gets larger with out all the buildup
I had this happen seized the engine in 5 minute of puting it in
Exactly my case. Looked into engine cleaners and before I even put anything in the motor I went about 3 oil changes every 2,500 miles
Why Liqui Moly says leave the engine to idle is because it is a detergent, not a lubricant. Oil's ability to lubricate is decreased with this additive, but cleaning ability is greatly increased, so running it at load can in worst case harm the engine.
Good point. But if you use it in fresh oil you can rev it up
He missed the point
I use this flush at my shop all the time, very good product, never had a single issue.
Hey Jacques is this liqui moly engine flush good for a car that been sitting in garage for 7 years??
@@montisino it is, but be sure to use another product from them called "Motor Oil Saver" after the flush. You add it in with the new oil. It will keep the seals from drying out.
@@jacquesbotha3923 I have a vw passat b7 2.0tdi with 292'000km. I'm looking to flush the engine at around 300'000km and add some ceratec to it. Car has had an oil change every 15'000km and is belt driven... shouldn't harm it? I don't have oil consumption at all
@@c190gtc if it ain't broke... don't fix it. You'd be mad to flush a well maintained engine at that mileage imo
@@eponymous7910 yeah I've chosen otherwise. I'm not flushing anything. Car has surpassed 300'000km now. Oil changes are enough every 15'000km
The video had the tone of an intro through out the whole thing lmao
Thanks for watching
Right?
Haha, true.. keeps us watching though
This is the only way to describe the narration on this channel 🤣
This, it was so weird when it ends and it feels like it didn't even start
After doing some internet research about the Liqui Moly Engine flush I desided to give it a try. Just had my regular oil change in an Alfa Romeo 156 Twin Spark and wow! Engine runs MUCH smoother than before! Obviously is impossible to see the difference in a closed engine but you can really hear and feel it! Even my mechanic was impressed from the result! Just make sure to leave it on a idle engine for 10 minutes, then drain the oil and change the filter and finally top up with the new fresh oil. Such a nice product! Highly recommend
How if liqui moly vs STP engine flush?
@@BagusWibisono Liqui Moly Pro Line is the better option
@@iShavegr the liqui engine flush it was did really well?
@@BagusWibisono don't expect to see any visual difference. For sure you will hear and feel the difference though after the oil change. Everything will run much more smoothly. Specially if you do the procedure after the second oil change.
Think of it as having a shower with and without soap 😂
Also if you go to a premium service center like porsche lexus etc they always use an engine flush before the oil change. Just make sure to leave it enough time to drain before you screw back the oil pan plug.
@@iShavegr thanks my friend
I also used liqui Molly engine flush and checked before using it and compared it after using it. It helps!
I have an 02 Audi 2.7t. I put this exact product in at 190,000 miles when I bought it. It is now at 258,000 miles and running strong.
Wow I’m about to really invest in products like these. Own the car and as long as you take care of the car the car itself will treat you and your family nice and won’t cost much money. I’m the type of guy that will run my car until it gives up. My 2010 Kia is at 220k and still running strong just did oil change and fuel treatment on every oil change as well, synthetic oil keeps my cars engine smooth and quiet as possible. Engine air filters and cabin filters changed when it’s visually can’t see the sun from the other side.
@@TrukNLife316 you should change the engine air filter more frequently in my opinion. A lot of wear comes from dirty air
@@TrukNLife316 I used diesel additives for my dad's evoque (200'000km) from liqui moly, it runs quieter now.
as a mechanic - you can use this. but use it as a economic way to keep a car that has been neglected running. A Engine thats been kept in its intervals and got a oil change every 10k miles shouldnt have that much oil coal buildup anyways.
Got rid of a lot of the gunk. Pictures tell the story and confirm the results. Not a myth for this product, it gets a thumbs up!
The problem is, that the gunk ends up in the oil passages and can clog them. Not as much of a problem on an engine such as this that is splash lubed.
@@KolaAlade-li5db it has to circulate before it can get to the filter.
I used this product on a NC mx-5 1.8 that had covered 80,000 miles. Two years later having added 20,000 to it and it felt smoother and oil consumption over that period was nil. I was impressed.
Not trying to discredit but I think that was just placebo.
I found this video while researching whether or not to flush my MZR 1,8 in my mx5 (98k) at its next oil change.
@@JGrindel you could pop open the valvecover (install a new gasket) if its all black then maybe it could be done. but normaly when the oil is changed often enough/is still clean then it shouldnt be needed at all. my peugeot 205 1,1 with 173k is still pretty much completly clean. its all the light brown/amber oil color no black at all. and only thing which has been done is an yearly oil change
This stuff actually saved my motor. Had terrible 10psi oil pressure at idle and lifter knock and ran through so many things of what it could be. Did this as a last ditch effort and it's never drops below 35psi at idle now. This stuff does work but should only be used if having problems like I did.
What oil to flush mixture ratio did you use? (I’m having the same issue - nc1 1.8mzr 130k km)
Some years back, I had occasion to use an engine flush and the results were good. It was a 1991 Pontiac GA with the 2.5 engine with 107k miles and one morning after taking it on a 3000 mile trip, the engine started with a very sharp knock but kept running. When it warmed, the knock was less severe and to me it suggested a varnish problem, probably a wrist pin. I flushed per the directions and refilled with a different brand of 5w30 oil and the knock wasn't there any longer. Sold the car just a year ago with over 240k miles and the engine was quiet with very low oil consumption. It's important to see to refreshing the oil changes once it's been flushed but in the long run, it's a good treatment.
Time to try it out my man I’m convinced. Trying to save a 96 5.7 Chevy engine
260k miles 5.7 with liquid moly, drained all the gunk, pulled the pan and scraped the residue off and put it back. She runs with more compression now and 5-10% more throttle. Yes it does infact work! Let idle 15 mins before changing oil don’t rev or drive truck with the stuff in your oil just idle.
got an 82 suzuki sc100 from a scrapyard, took the rocker cover off and its built up bad! thought about using a product like this and i think youre videos given me that confidence to try it.
I've been working at engine large and small for 40 years including building some high performance small capacity bike engines for classic racing. Engine flushing oils should be considered like this:
On a high mileage worn engine carbon built up in the rings might be actually helping keep a little compression by acting as a sort of seal in the ring groove. Removing this is not a great idea.
In a newer low mileage engine that has had poor oil maintenance and is sludged up but isn't badly worn then they are a good idea they can re open restricted oilways remove sludge that hinders oil movement and help speed up oil drain down back to the pan, all good things.
lastly on a newer engine which has had good maintenance and is not sludged you're wasting money buying it.
My mechanic says exactly the same thing
They build standard and high performance donks for clients. 50k for engines in some cases
And that’s what they said to me also. Old engine. Change oil regularly. Newer engines. U can do it. Dragging all that crud through just destroys and engine in no time
That's the problem I'm dealing with I have a 06 Silverado with 300k and it didnt have regular old changes in it until I got it and there is a lifter tapping in it and the oil pressure is a little low but not much all the videos I been watching say transmission fluid flush bit I just dont have very good luck lol
@@Wayno228 What oil are you using
@@mercedesvan-doors34 I use Castrol 10 40 high mileage
@@Wayno228 Consider doing a 'milder flush' as follows. At the next change drop the oil and add new filter, fill it with a 5-30 semi synth and run it for a week or so especially on a long run so nice and hot but watch you oil pressure just in case. After this drop this oil and replace with the usual and another new filter. I'd add Engine Restore with the new oil. I work mainly on old Jags and this can have a noticeable effect on smoothness of the high mileage ones.
I used this flush in 1999 Jetta 2.0 engine that has 115K miles and after that the engine runs SIGNIFICANTLY smoother. I did this way: 1) add the can in oil and idle run engine as recommended 2) Drain the oil and put the new oil. 3) Idle run engine and drain AGAIN. 4) Now, change filter and final refill with new oil again. - great result. My car takes 4 quarts of oil, so I already had 8 quarts purchased to perform the above... Also, highly recommend couple more things: 1.use a STP fuel system cleaner before this engine flush, lets say a week before, as the fuel system cleaner works after the gas tank gets empty and you refill the gas again... and # 2. Change intake air filter too.
Why u put oil and drain again after flush? Any technical reason?
@@chetansharma-jx1ud Hi Chetan, thanks for asking... When I first drain the oil it looked like a milkshake, so I refill with a new oil, let it idle and drained again, why? - just to make sure the old oil with that flush additive is completely out. The instruction on the bottle does not say that, it is my own preference...
@@chetansharma-jx1ud he just want to make sure that no left resedues from engine flush.
I did this exact thing.
@@y0vrs3lf Great! If you also try to clean MAF sensor and Throttle Body - it will run EVEN BETTER! Note: for both, there are 2 different spray cleaners, one is specifically for MAF and the other one exactly for Throttle Body, do NOT mix! Walmart sells both cans as a kit, or check your local auto store...
Engine oil flushes work well with a good product. There's no doubt. It will get more of the gunk and varnish out. Changing the oil while warm also mobilizes more of the old oil out of the system. Liqui Moly probably consists mainly of light naptha. Something like Stoddard solvent; (Mineral spirits, 85% nonane and 15% trimethyl benzene. This solvent thins out the oil, so you don't want to leave it in there, or put the engine under much load, so idling is correct to avoid any metal contact.
The oil will become very thin and viscous and 15 minutes or so of idling will break down the lumps and varnish, allowing a better flush when you drain it, getting more of the old oil out also.
As you state, it's not an excuse to not maintain your engine regularly and perform oil changes, but is a preventative measure to prevent build-up and varnish that can impact engine operation and wear it out prematurely. Hopefully an engine oil flush extends the life of your engine, and for the cost, avoiding you thousands in repairs down the road, it's probably worthwhile.
Wow very thorough information this is exactly what we need in the NIA community to help each other.
This was extremely helpful thank you 👀👌
well said.....its only engine idling after pouring liquimoly, strictly no load.......Nevertheless NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO done a good job,
@mark peterson Bingo! There is no magic product, just lack of maintenance
Can i use the flush on a 2011 toyota etios diesel engine? Some people say that you should not flush old engines as they are sealed by the sludge and carbon it self, and if you flush it, then it will start to leak.
Even if you bought the engine new, even if you make regular oil changes, even if you are a conservative driver, there is always be build up of sludge inside the engine.
Not only due to environment conditions (extremely low or high temperatures), but also to the way various components degrade over time (e.g., seals).
This is especially relevant today, as engines are quite more complex, and oil is used to lubricate even more components than just the crankshaft.
I have used this cleaner for years and I trust it 100%. As a matter of fact at times I have changed the oil on my car and after couple hundred miles I go back and just change the oil filter and it still has sludge that was cleaned by this stuff. I have written back and forth with LM engineers in Germany and Im sold in all of their products. As long as they sell this stuff I will buy it.
I have a 2006 Chevy suburban that started smoking at about 200,000 miles thought that I had a major problem seen This flush thing that it was made in Germany and decided to give it a test after the first bottle the smoking went away on start up and now I use the additives and the liquid flush every oil change and I’ve noticed my oil pressure being better and my oil consumption being down I have 262,000 miles on it now and it runs like a top
Dont use it too much you’ll eat away your seals and gaskets because of the concentration of detergent
When I got my car with 77,060 miles on it, I had read the owner's manual and found out that the dealership had only used conventoinal 10w40 oil on a 7500 mile oil change interval after I had been doing 3000 mile oil changes and still having thick pieces of carbon flakes fill up the bottom of my oil filter housing. Turns out a Volvo S60 doesn't like conventional oil unless it is the most basic model without variable valve timing and without a turbocharger. I used this Pro-Line engine flush for about 25 minutes instead of the recommended 10 (?) and when I changed the oil, it started as Castrol Edge 10w30, but became something closer to the color of road tar, but not as thick. After that, I used their Liechtlauf 5w40 and was surprised to see that after 4000 miles, it was still golden yellow, but at 6000 miles, it was a honey color. Once my VVT solenoids went out and I replaced them, I looked in my head and the aluminum was coated in amber yellow like it only had 6000 miles on it to begin with. I have used Castrol Edge 5w30, 10w30, 5w40, 0w40, Mobil 1 5w30, 10w30, 0w40, Pennzoil Platinum 5w40, 5w30, 10w30, Rotella T5 10w30, Rotella T6 5w40, 0w40, and Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5w40, Moly-Gen 10w40, MOS2 10w40, and Top-Tec 4200 5w30 and so far the only oils that doesn't give me any carbon flakes from high heat and stress are the Rotella T6 oils and the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5w40 and MOS2 10w40. I've begun using this now for all my friends who don't understand proper oil changes and even they can notice a smoother running, more efficient engine.
Thank you. I will keep note of this.
Thanks bro for your comment
Thanks for sharing.
So the new Molygen from liqui moly wasn't that good?
I have a 2004 m/b 320 e and 184000 miles.
I just now tried this Liqui Moly in my gas tank and it already runs a lot smoother.
Thank you for the advice.
did you put the engine flush in the fuel tank?
@@FelipeSebben yes I did!
@@jan22150 Did you have good results or any problems?
I have a can left over here and was thinking of doing the same.
@@FelipeSebben seems to me it doesn't hurt. So far I have not had any negative results.
@@FelipeSebben this is supposed to be pourred into the engine...
Should have spent more time on the after
But there was 1 second of footage! I wonder if he left it in... It's a flush that should be done right before changing the oil... Compression after new oil is the real test... Not that I care about compression... But the build up I do... It's just kerosene anyway
Very disappointing to watch all that and the big reveal was 1 second long and he didn’t even say if he liked it.
Liqui-Moly is the best. I found a Mercedes that had sat in a field for 10 years, flushed everything out, oil, fuel, trans, using their products, and so far have put another 50k on the car without any major rebuilds. Good vid!
Don't just don't if a motor has been neglected than that's a problem this is a bandaid not intended as a fix if the motor is seriously slugged you don't have much to gain and a lot to lose. All that crude will break off, where does it go from there? Inside the motors oil passages, into the main bearings and probably worst of all the oil pump catch screen. This may liquify slugs to an extent but it will not remain in that form for long, these are alcohol based products, the evaporate at room temp (to a degree) a fully warmed up motor is more than enough to evaporate it and what left after a oil change will harden back up.
Focus think sludge is only a bad thing but it does have some benefits as it will quiet a loud motor and will also junk up worn out gaskets, if you use something like this the end result could very well be a loud, ticking, leaky mess (which originally existed I will admit) but with the sludge that settles removed from said gaskets causing any previously existing damage to become more obvious (like increased oil leaks). Theres just not a lot to gain, motor oil has a ton of detergent in it the way it is if you have a problem simply change the oil more often that is by far the safest bet the stuff is intended to clean.
Best case someone uses this on a motor in good condition to remove some slight varnish, no major sludge exists to be removed so no fear of clogging the oil pump catch screen however there isn't much to gain from this best case either. If you do use this please follow up with a short oil change even if you buy the cheapest oil you can find and run it for 200-300 miles to help flush any remaining lose sludge out it will be worth the added time (assuming you're doing your own oil change).
Well said
i agree with you... like in malaysia, EO like shell advance ax7(semi synthetic 10W/40) has it own active cleansing technology in it engine oil... for motorcycle 😁😁 what say you?
I used the liqui Molly engine flush on my E90 and it did clean out quiet a bit of gunk. I just got an oil change every 7500 miles now using liqui Molly engine oil.
I've been using this product on my two Benzs for over 4 years now. I also use it on my clients' cars as well. I don't measure it. I pour the entire bottle in and run it. I use it if it is my first time working on the vehicle. I use a high quality oil. At the end I add Liqui Moly Cera Tec. Cars love this stuff.
Very good i enjoy hearing what this product does for others good or bad people need to know.
What benz?i have 95 w124 and want to do engine flush..is it save?
I have an 02 ML500 and an 03 E320. I have used the engine flush in Ameican, Japanese, and European cars.
@@izkytama yes it is safe, I use Liqui Moly in my 03 Camry with 215k miles on it, still has 190-195 psi compression it runs incredibly
I tried this today on my motorcycle it runs good now and really changed the performance and you can feel and hear it.
Got my car @ 50K miles and used this every other oil change. No idea how well the car was taken care of before me outside the 5K mile oil changes but after the first flush it idled smoother imo.
I haven’t had any engine problems yet @ 100K miles
I have had good cleaning results with the use of Extralube ZX1 in the oil in a four stroke engine, and in the fuel system too.
Mixing it into 2 stroke oil and running it with fuel in a 2 stroke engine also cleans and lubricates those engines.
Extralube ZX1 leaves a smoother surface behind after use which helps prevent dirt and sludge sticking to the metal in the future.
Running it in a used engine, driving it for say 1000 miles before draining the oil and changing the fluids will work just as well as an engine flush. Just follow the recommended quantities to make sure you are not over or under treating your engine.
Just to be clear, if your going to flush your engine/transmission do it right, change your oil twice, and your filter once. After you’ve done the initial oil change and put a new filter on, drive for a few miles and then drain the oil again. If it’s still clean your good, if not then go ahead and change it once more. Also it’s typically not a good idea to use transmission flush if yours hasn’t been maintained very well. When people say that oil is the only thing holding it together, that can very well be the case. Seen it happen plenty of times.
It does t damage the engine. It only removes the gunk in the damaged engine that was constricting the oil flow.
@@im-that-guy-pal never said it did. However if it’s been a long time with transmissions or an engine with no change, your gonna discover alot of leaks that you never knew you had before.
Iv used all types of flushes, I think the reason as I found out as to why not put under load is... If your car has a turbo with bad seals the flush thins the oil and risks running up on its oil as fuel did this on a pug 206 diesel bent 2 rods big learning curve, if found 1 litre of atf left in for a week has amazing results
used this engine flush recently on the first oil change of a 1950s diesel excavator in about 40 years. appears to have done a good job, the engine runs noticeably more smoothly, and appears to idle better. the pilot that came out was very poor, and with a strainer rather than a true filter I suspect a lot of gunk was being recirculated
Just used this on my 17 Mini Cooper S with 57,000 miles. Average oil changes have been every 4000 miles prior to flushing the engine. Make sure you mix this with your current oil in the crank case after the engine is up to temp. Idle for 10-15 minutes depending on engine condition. Drain oil. I would suggest using a rinse oil (same weight and type-synthetic, conventional, etc.) but less expensive than the oil you plan to use for the actual oil change). Run that for 10-15 minutes. Then drain and change oil and filter per your standard process. My head was relatively clean prior to the flush but, the flush did quiet the motor down a bit and smooth out the idle, especially in sport and sport+ mode. If you do regular maintenance, flushing the motor should not cause any issues.
Great test. Never used the product but it looks interesting.
Had a 1991 Pathfinder, started using Lubegard 95030 Engine Flush before every oil change starting at 9,000 miles. every 5,000 miles the oil was changed. It looked brown but after Lubegard the drained oil looked black. Truck had 260,000+miles on it before the frame broke. Never had a engine problem and the engine was the only thing that worked like new when the vehicle was traded.
It was black because the Lubegard actually helped the oil clean, which is supposed to happen anyway.
@@derekhobbs1102 I think I implied that.
Was it a diesel?
@@bostjanerjavec4146 No
@@derekhobbs1102 (Used synthetic Mobil-1) and I know and all that in just 10 minutes.
Back in the day I bought a junkyard 440 for my 1969 GTX. I changed the oil one time and after about 2,000 miles I added about 1 gallon of Diesel fuel into the engine, drove it about 1/2 mile (slowly and carefully) then changed the oil again. After about another 2,000 miles I wanted to put the Heads, Intake and oil pan from the original 440 on it. When I opened it up I couldn't believe how clean it was inside. It looked like it had never had that black oil I drained out of it the first time. I have also used ATF to do the cleaning chores when I had a hydraulic lifter tick. A cup of ATF into the engine oil and the tick would go away while waiting in a couple minutes. Also Too, I have used ATF in my Diesel fuel to clean fuel injectors. ATF is some kind of extremely high detergent oil. Just not correct for hard driving service alone. But I know it really cleans. ben/ michigan
I think it works great
I used xado total flush(wich you run for 150 miles) and then liqui moly engine flush and got a good bit of power back, I also observed lower fuel consumption and lower oil consumption, I actually didn't have to top it off between oil changes on a high milage engine.
I did not believe in such products.
This video changed my mind a bit.
if the problem is can it remove the older remnants?
Nice work. Regardless of what the counter person at autozone from the comments say, your video was to the point and it does work. It’s a shame that people who changed their oil one time and think they’re a mechanic chime in and talk trash.
These engines don't have a filter. All of that crap is now being forced through oil passages.
@@tvdinner325 Who gives a FUCK?!
@@tvdinner325 nor do they have an oil pump. They sling the oil around the crankcase. It's not pumped though any passages.
Bro I've changed mine about 7 times bro I think I know what what I'm talkin about
@@BoutThatAction yeah bro same
I definitely neglected changing the oil in my car. My car eats oil so I just top it off when it needs to be topped off. Did oil change twice a year. So I thought this might be bad for the engine at 350k miles. Gave the flush a try with some regular oil....drained the oil + flush it came out all black.....product seems to do the job....now hopefully my engine has some life left for many more thousand miles.
I use this on my Mercedes E55 AMG and my Jeep Wrangler it works wonders!
In fact, I use all Liqui Moly oil products and additives! Opened up my engine to do my valve covers and it looks brand new!
Liqui Moly is the best! Their new oil Molygen is the best! Better than any other oil I have used! I also love there certec!
Do you use molygen in your car?
I recently started using LM Octane Booster because except for one brand, none of the premium fuels here have enough octane, or god forbid, more than required... actually I just order a 5-pack after firing through a 3-pack this past weekend :) I looked in to flushes and would use this, but I don't because I have the car serviced at the dealership and of course they don't approve, but if I buy a pre-owned car, I would use this first thing.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the NIA community.
What can we try next?
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO tribotex!
We had a customer who bought a very neglected car and tried this product. Long story short he then needed a new motor. He refused to believe us that it wasn't the product's fault and that the motor was gonna die anyway due to lack of maintenance.
We use similar products on engines that need it, but if it's really sludged up we make sure the owner is aware of the risks...
When it comes to flushes, Ive only ever seen damage when the oil is older and the flushes inadvertently moves some of the "gunk" to the oil pan, then the pickup is blocked and you get engine damage.
Ive used oil flushes (Nulon in particular) for over 14 years on every oil change and its always worked wonders for noisy lifters and getting the most oil out of the engine as possible.
Same way fuel injectors get clogged after using fuel cleaner.
I bought a used 2012 Equinox 16 months ago.... It was using a qt. every 1500 miles.... ran the Liqui Molly treatment now for three oil changes.... Now!! I am over 3000 miles before it's a qt. low.... actually not even a qt. It works.... I've seen the results
Does this have hydraulic lifters? That's what's the problem from what I've heard is the lifter passageways getting blocked
Exactly but no body will answer to this because it’s true 😉
No my car is perfectly fine
Once my engine got seized because of leaky coolant, I added 1.5 litres of low viscosity mobil oil(refiltered)and run the car for a month, it cleared all the oil residue that was stuck on inner surfaces of engine and oil capillaries.
Then I drained all and filled with normal engine oil.
How I used it, removed old oil, put in cheap but correct type of oil with the same old filters. Idle till operating temp. Put the flush in the engine, run idle whatever min says it to run. Drain oil and keep the oil nut and filter removed for at least 12hours. Then fill with new oil and new filter. It did a good job
@jxxcool Did you put the Liqui Molly inside your engine while the oild was hot or did you wait for the engine to get cold ? I wanna try this as well. Thank you
@@mihai0377 1 year late, yah while it is hot
@@jxx1234 did you put the whole bottle
I use this product with my 93' Mazda Familia, i had 300 thousand KMS and runs great. Liqui Moly is Loqui Moly!
I have used engine flush once before. Let the car idle for about 10mins maybe a bit less. Pulled the plug and let everything drain while I inspected the suspension and brakes. Wanted to make sure it drained everything that it was going to. After put the drain plug back in with a new crush washer(first oil change of my ownership). Filled up with formula shell oil and a wix filter.
That was well over a year ago.still not a problem.
Plenty of scenarios depending on the engine especially newer. The Ecotec for example not sure about the latest but originally the oil passages were small. It was a known issue that's why they had lifter noise since they're hydraulic.
I have also used engine flush to remove varnish from the friction plates in limited slip differentials with very positive results.
In theory engine flushs are awesome if they worked as advertised. However what most people dont understand, is that lots of engines have “screen’s” in various parts of the oiling system…. By adding a engine flush, you may clog those screens. Then you starve your engine for oil, and cause catastrophic damage. My advice… only do it as a last resort. Because most engines have screens in the oil pump, and the EGR system… if you clog that up. Bad things will happen. But thats my opinion.
I use liqui moly in my integra and it always makes a difference, it’s really good stuff and worth it!
Some people said engine flush will distribute more gunk and spread it into the whole system and that is the whole point of engine flush. It knock off grime suspen it in oil and then you drain it out, then you refill the engine with more new cheap oil and drain it 2-3 times more while let the engine running a few minutes in between each change to fully remove all the gunk and engine flush residue out. You don’t just put a flush and then do only one drain. Just like you clean your plates, you don’t just scrub it up with soap and then place it on the cupboard right away, you gotta rinse it with water to remove the grease and soap off. And yes doing an engine flush is expensive, that is why you change your oil regularly so stuff like that doesn’t happen.
I have used It in a Mini r50 engine with 250.000 kms and very noisy tappets and It has almost solved the problem and has made engine smoother.
I bet it was your hydraulic chain tensioner
Possibly hydraulic lifters had sludge in them blocking them. You get tapping from that.
I disable the fuel and ignition system drain the oilreplace plug then add a gallon of diesel fuel.. turn the engine over for a few seconds and let it sit for a few mins and repeat the process a few times. Drain it out and another gallon of diesel turn it over several times pausing to let starter cool down between crankin intervals..drain it over night to make sure its all out. Works great.
Only used flush once, when going from Semi to Fully Synthetic. Used the ORIGINAL Slick50 additive, and that was impressive for friction reduction (quiet engine), but the modern version is useless. If you change the oil on a regular basis you shouldn't get build up anywhere except in the combustion chamber, and maybe a tank of Shell V-Fuel every once in a while would take care of most of that. If additives were any good , don't you think the oil companies would put it in to start with. So to a point in the vlog I certainly agree with, if you think the engine has had a hard life with someone and a flamethrower, sure, go ahead, it makes sense.
What about someone who bought a used vehicle that was not regularly maintained? For instance, an older vehicle that they want to restore. Didn't think about that, did you?
@@TX_Lawyer if you flush an older vehicle, everything that it cleans out can clog the lifters and oil pick up tune. Didn’t think of that?
@@GripGarage There is an old engine slow flush option from liqui moly which will softly remove buildup and not all at once so you dont damage sludge engines.
@@K0nst4nt1n96 Bruh, if the engine was poorly maintained don’t bother. I’m an automotive technician and most people get burned this way ad the damage is already done. There’s no way to reverse it besides a rebuild
@@christophervanzetta why not try it? If it works it works and if it doesnt it doesnt?
My car had problems with the oil flowback valves and one engine flush did the trick and now they work again. I could have replaced them but 10€ for a flush and it worked fine for me.
I've used it and does wonders!! Just don't leave it in! Engine runs quieter better fuel mpg
Nice work. And you let the pictures speak for themselves. Classy
Hi, I had problems with my fiat 500 multijet (diesel) with 85K km. The car started to consump far more diesel per mile and was not going as fast as it was. I started with DPF additives. No big change. I proceded with aditives for nozzles. The change was not very significant. I also noticed, the oil at the change was very dirty - black. It's normal on diesels, but this was too much. It's not so old car. When I saw some things about engine flushing on youtube, I bought an engine flusher (Adinol). I took about 1/2 litres of engine oil away and aded Adinol oil flusher. Ran my engine for about 1/2 hour in neutral with pushing throttle up and down and finaly let my oil out. I was surprised at how dirty the oil this time was. I mean - I changed it only 1K kilometers back. I let the oil to get out for several hours, lifting and letting the car up and down - to get everything out. Also changed oil filter. Than have put new oil and filter. When I started the engine and ran it for some time throtteing it up and down, I have checked the oil on my dipstick. It was much cleaner than ever after oil change. After, when using my car, some significant changes occured. First of all - my gas mileage dropped for more than 1 liter/100 KM. The car also seem to be much more alive and fast, but it's hard to say, I haven't do the final test on the highway yet. When the car was new, I made something between 190 and 200 KM/H. Later when problems occured it made 180 KM/H +. Since it's hard to get empty highway, I haven't checked the final speed yet. But my filing is it goes much better, but still not as good as new. I must admit that the greatest job I still have to do - cleaning the intake manifold, valves and EGR valve - be happy for tips.
About the engine flushing, I can only say it is a real revelation for me. I can remember several diesels in my life starting running some kind of heavy at mileage above 50.000 KMs. I think engine flushing would have done a great job for them too.
what car do you have? Planning to do it on my passat diesel at just before 300'000km. I don't have any problems with it, just wanna keep it running smooth.
Liquimolly flush is awesome. I use it on every single vehicle I work on and/or own.
Have you used it on a modern turbocharged engine as well?
@@kwbalance108 yes. All the time both stock and upgraded turbos.
Is that any side effect such as males your rubber seals in the engine become corrosive?
@@sujatmikoafandi no. As a matter of fact, liquimoly flush specifically has conditioners to replenish and keep your rubber seal healthy so they don’t crack. And changing oil frequently at 3-4k miles prevents them from leaking for considerably longer times. This is important especially in BMWs because these drivers ignore the oil changes for 10-15k miles which leads to leaks in so many of the BMWs & then these cars get a bad reputation. In reality, BMW is no more prone to leaking than Japanese cars that are known for their reliability.
Japanese cars have very low power output so their mechanicals are not subject to performance level stress so they don’t get leaks and issues… BMWs are performance vehicles so the stresses in parts are two to three times higher tham Japanese low powered cars.
It does remove impurities, but where does it go? I did the operation, the oil pump was clogged, and then the engine stopped and was completely worn out due to the clogging of the oil pump in my car. GOLF 6 GTD
You can do the exact same thing by adding a quart of automatic trans fluid to your oil. When Ford first started using vvt, doing an oil change with a quart of trans fluid and driving for 300 miles was step one in the diagnostic process. No bullshit... That's what Ford says to do. So, you can spend however much on this stuff or just change your oil with one quart replaced with a $3 quart of trans fluid.
I really appreciate this thank you for sharing with the NIA Community.
That trick is old as the hills. ATF has strong detergents to keep valve bodies, pumps and orifices clean in automatic transmissions. I have a 2005 Nissan Xtrerra with 450,000 original miles , no rebuild. I installed a Fumoto drain valve and remove 20% of the engine oil and replace it with transmission fluid 500 miles before an oil change. I also used the same technique on my over the road trucks( Mack/Freighterliner/Volvo).The all went over 750,000 to 1,000,000 miles before trading in or selling. I use Liqui-Moly products but not the engine flush . It does work and is a good product but the tranny fluid technique I find works better and is very cost effective..Their Mso2 additive and engine oils are excellent. I cannot forget to mention that Marvel Mystery Oil and Rislone Engine treatment are also excellent for engine cleaning. I have experimented with both products versus ATF . They all work extremely well and are very cost effective.
I was happy to see your comment my uncle taught me that when I was just a 14-year-old boy. 1 quart of transmission fluid in your oil
the problem being ATF wasn't specifically designed to clean but to lubricate, it works because of it's relatively high detergent concentration... but you are better off using purpose built stuff, it's going into the engine after all, get the right stuff and it'll do the job you want it to do properly
i change my oil regular and every 5000km, when i opened engine front cover to change damaged water pump, the timing belt and everything around that area was super clean, even at almost 247k kilometers
nissan themselves does not recommand using an engine flush, the only solution i found to engine ticking noise is pouring extra 0.5 liter oil, so if nissan recommends 5 liters i just make it 5.5 liters...and it seems to work just fine
After buying a used Prius we noticed it used a good deal of oil on the highway. Using Liquid Moly, synthetic oil, and Restore oil additive, the oil consumption dropped considerably. This isn't a one time deal. We've had to use it again because of the bad design of the piston ring oil supply orifice.
How often are using this method to slow down the oil consumption?
@@dashcamjourney4599 Once the piston rings start leaking oil, there is no cure besides redoing the piston rings…
@@christophervanzettado they start to wear just with time or is there preventive maintenance that could be done to prevent it
@@andrewspage2777running the car in fairly hard (no redlining or engine braking though) will see everything seal up a lot better and reduce the chances of it burning oil down the track
Bought a BMW 335d with 90k miles. They went with the recommended oil change intervals (1 year/15k miles basically) and it was idling a little rough. Threw some oil flush in on after the fresh oil change the dealer did. Put in lm ceratek and their in spec oil for the car. Night and day difference it definitely took some gunk out with it.
Taking a torch to the OHV assembly:
Goodbye valve seals
i use it in my 2010 audi a5 (just before changing the oil). i cant prove it helped anything, but it has a lot of good reviews. the 2010 a5 is notorious for oil consumption and failed piston rings. i have not experienced any issues. its cheap insurance.
Doubling the amount makes it an unfair test.
I have a 2013 Audi S6. The engine is known to have turbo screen issues causing oil starvation to the turbos. At 100K miles I did my first flush. Oil has always been changed at about the 7,500 mile mark and it holds 8.8 quarts. I drained the oil and drained the filter housing saving 8 ounces of oil. I then added fresh mobil 1 euro with 2 bottles (due to the crank case capacity) and idled it for 16 minutes and drained the oil saving 8 ounces. I compared the first oil with the second new oil with flush and both were the same color, jet black. The oil with the cleaner did run down the sides of the glass containers much faster than without. Given how much "stuff" was pulled out after 16 minutes, I'm certain it did a very good job of cleaning. It made me feel good about the screen being clean.
7500 w a turbo? No a good idea. 3 to 4 k change intervals w a turbo. You'll thank yourself if you do.
@@ryanhammerfist5139 I've since gone to 5K intervals. I only change the filter ever other time though. I do drain the filter every time, I have a cartridge type with a little drain plug.
@@datsuntoyy is your car from 1980 by any means?
I had a lifter tick in a 4.6L V8 Ford E150 van, which is an OHC engine. It had 75,000 miles on it. Used a full can of this stuff according to directions and the tick immediately went away. Now at 80,000 mi and still no lifter tick and no other problems.
The problem with engine flush is that on high mileage cars the oil pick up can get blocked with the gunk that is flushed to the sump. That being said if you own a low mileage car I'd recommend doing it every oil change to stop sludge build up in the first place
Not a sound mechanical theory. If a low-mileage engine is getting sludge it is because of one of two reasons. The oil is not being changed often enough for the type of driving that is being done. Or the engine itself has an endemic sludge problem. Maybe that engine itself is not suitable for constant stop-and-go and short trip driving. If that is the kind of driving someone has to do, in that case maybe they need to get a different vehicle. It might seen incongruous to change synthetic oil every 2500 miles, but if it is required based on the specific engine and the type of driving that is being done to prevent some oil-related problem, then that is what you do.
People think synthetic oil is a miracle product. It isn't. Those extended drain intervals, up to 25,000 miles in some cases, are for vehicles that are driven primarily at highway speeds. Synthetic oil in a vehicle that is not driven enough to even get hot will undergo crystallization. I discovered that in a vehicle I bought a few years back that for years was driven locally only a few miles a week. The son left the same synthetic oil in there for years because his dad was driving very little and he thought it was good for 15,000 miles. Well, it did function as a lubricant but the valve cover area was loaded with crystallization and the rings probably were too. I didn't even know what it was and found out only much later. It was a vehicle that originally used conventional oil and I went back to that and changed it often. The crystallization began to slowly dissolve.
@@anonymike8280 yeah you went on a tangent then bud and pretty much missed my point. Enjoy your night.
Yes, if an engine has much over 100K miles the dirt might be what's holding much of the engine together in terms of oil consumption. MIGHT, I'd say it's still worth a try, but I'd just do a bunch of oil changes, at very short intervals like around 100 miles. AFter 3 or 4 of those, only THEN i'd dump in the flush.
@@anonymike8280 NO DUDE!
I’ve only flushed one engine of a used Jeep cherokee, bought it some time, about 20,000 miles then replaced the engine. I have no complaints really, I just do regular oil changes.
I have a direct injection engine. Turbo charged. Engine flush makes a huge difference on how well my engine runs. Noticeable improvement in idol and acceleration. I highly recommend A engine flush.
No thanks ✌️
Same here no thanks
Idle*
@@Questchaun
Why? How is it bad!
@@حمزةك-ظ3ر turbo’s are garbage??
They’re flawed by design
Before using any engine flush you need to have an idea of the condition of the surfaces inside your engine. If you just purchased a used car and don't know how it was maintained I would not recommend using an engine flush.
Years ago I bought a used car and noticed it was leaking oil from the valve covers, not a big problem just get valve cover gaskets and replace them, right. Well once the covers were removed you could see the previous owner did not do preventive maintenance. There was oil sludge everywhere. I cleaned and vacuumed all the build up of sludge that I could get to. I put everything back together, new gaskets, new oil, and new oil filter. The car ran great for about a week when I started to hear a tapping while driving down the road. It was at night and I couldn't see any oil leaking anywhere but I was concerned that the engine had posted it's oil. I pulled into a gas station and bought five quarts of oil into the engine while it was running and then drove home. The tapping didn't stop. When I finally turned off the engine and checked the oil level I found out that the engine oil didn't leak out. There was ten quarts in the engine but by putting the extra oil in the rod and crank bearings were saved by being dunked in a bath of oil as the oil pick up was filled with sludge and the tapping I heard was the lifters being starved of oil.
My point is engine flushes work but they may work too well and may cause your engine to fall if you don't know the condition of the inside of your engine. Happy Motoring.
Yeah I'm torn as to whether I should on the 2014 Mini Cooper S I just got with 76k miles
@@Chrisratata Good oils have cleaners blended in them, they just don't do as quick a job as an engine flush would but maybe cleaning up an engine slowly is a better way to go. Just change your oil more frequently and it will clean it a bit each time you change your oil. The only way that I would ever use a flush again is if I was gong to be tearing down the engine to do a rebuild.
@@mostlymoparih5682 I hear ya. My plan definitely is to change it every 4-5k and definitely not the Mini-recommended 10
Engine flush works great, cleaned my oil ways when sat for 2 years. Perfect oil pressure resumed again. Ran it for 20mins before changing oil and filter
Which brand you used?
@@aldocraycray liqui moly ofc
This Oil impurities where it goes if it in car engine .
I don’t believe in any flashes
@@ابوباسل-ع5د it's not a mystery, it's supposed to go down into the oil pan, and you do a full oil change after. i mean it's not going to fully flush clean whole inside of the engine, but it helps clean the major buildups.
@@shawonr3325
That what you think 🤔
Many people do that and they damaged their engine
most engine oil now days are contained detergent, so just change engine oil regulary will help to keep your engine clean.
I believe engine flushes work very well, my only concern is someone buying a used car with some sort of stop leak in the system getting flushed out. Also the variable valve timing systems may be sensitive to things like it
do you think it might damage a bmw n52 engine ? got it used 170k kilometers
I'm torn as to whether I should do it on my newly purchased 2014 Mini Cooper S with 76k miles. It runs great!, especially after I changed the spark plugs, ignition coils, and air filter and ran intake valve cleaner through the pipe. But in this effort to ensure the car's starting off with as clean of a slate as possible, I'm tempted to flush the engine...then just proceed to take care of all maintenance religiously.
I did the flush and oh my , the car got smoother , quiter and the response was regained
Never seen a stop-leak actually work. At best it might slow the oil loss a tiny bit. These stop leaks have a seal-sweller chemical which can cause main bearing seals to become "wrapped around the axle", literally, which will definitely not help oil consumption
@@Chrisratata Could you share your results if you did this? & If so how often did you have to change your oil to get the black out to normal color oil. Thanks.
Used it on my mercedes 2003 it was burning 1quart every 1 thousand miles . After ,using liqui moly engine flush its at 3 thousand miles and no oil consumption warning has popped up on the dash. Really pricey but its worth it.
it's fine for older engines with high miles but all the new car dealers around here want to put in with oil changes in brand new cars. theres no reason to put it in a brand new engine.
I prefer preventive maintenance but changing the oil regularly will be sufficient.
If customers tend to not change the oil on the specified oil change date or milage i’d highly recommend this even if its a new car. Why? Simply because of gunk that gets collected on the engine and we cant see it
Depends on the engine, direct injection petrol OR diesel engines suffer the worst, and worst again if its turbo, and 99.9 percent of engines have egr which doesnt help. Direct injection engines dont get the valves (washed) by fuel at all, as it bypasses them, hence the massive carbon build up on valve stems... but were not talking intake carbon here, oil doesnt flow there so it wonr be cleaned anyways unless u use an intake decarbon cleaner. I use and recommend all the liqui moly products, except rheir oil
@@tassie4x499 why you doesnrt use theyr oil? i use LM 4200 in my delta 1.6 jtd and its better than the Selenia the brand recomend
@@rjsvids i dont use their oil, for 2 reasons..... not many places stock it here in Australia, and also its extremely expensive here conpared to other high end fully synthetic oils available. If it were priced more competitive and readily available i would use it👌
I just did a Toyota engine flush with my 660cc Japanese Hatchback. Kept the car idle 15 minutes instead of 10 and surprisingly the engine got smoother and I could feel specially cuz I live in the hills. The car was going up the motorway up the mountain with less effort 👌
Plus more mileage.
I wonder if using it a few times at a 5% mix would be more gentle than the 10% mix. My 6g72 twin turbo engine has lifter tick and I want to try to clean it before changing to big bore lifters.
The only reason this would be a bad idea is for newer car engines with small oil passages that could get clogged.
A couple of comments for those who would be tempted to try this on their own lawnmower rather than a car:
1. It is not realistic to use a compression tester on a 4 stroke lawnmower engine as it has a compression release which is active at cranking rpm. This is usually why there is no change after the engine has been worked on.
2. The lawnmower engine is air cooled and runs approx 40% hotter under load than an automotive engine. This means the oil has to be able to handle the lubrication requirements at those elevated temps, and most automotive oils won’t for any extended time. I am not sure if the Liquid Moly will either?
3. I know you were just proving a point but it would not be cost effective on a small engine even if it did work. If you keep the air filter clean and change oil regularly there will be no need.
All my cars are air cooled
I think this is more just as a demonstration
@@Jim-lv6jc uh, what cars you got?
@@johnb8956 76 Volkswagen Kombi and a 57 Volkswagen Beetle
@@Jim-lv6jc nice
Its not the strongest engine flush you can use. More of a maintenance thing. Definitely safe. But dont expect it to free up stuck rings
Liqui Moly is a reputable German Motor Oil company. I really doubt any of their products will harm your engine if used as directed. Last time I checked Liqui Moly makes OEM oil for VW; the world's largest auto maker.
Я из России тоже заливаю vw polo sedan Ликви молли,у нас много поддельного масла в стране,я за рулем 35 лет меняю масла сам,но полностью масло не сливается через пробку при смене 300 грамм остается примерно и оно смешивается с новым маслом при замене
That's not a compliment, v/w have went downhill since the eighties ,too many sensors and electronics,why use additives when their supposed engineering is so good?Would love some comments on vw.
Vw is the company that lied emissions? Oh yeah it is. And it is also reputable German company? Yes right
Confused. The description says why you shouldn't use a flush, but, the "after" looks pretty good. Plus, if doing a video of a product, you should follow the directions. Says idle 10min, but instead put it under a load for 10min, could affect the results.
The after photo looks suspect to me. Why is the oil more prevalent in hard to reach places (around rocker nut)?
Yup ... this is one giant advert ...
never use any engine flush on hydraulic tappet engines, Ive seen quite a few vauhall engines damaged by engine flush, you might as well put parrafin/kersoene in your engine. loosening carbon deposits and depositing them in bearings and bushings engine flush can do a lot of expensive damage, you were correct in your video saying that two oil changes are better,most lawn mowers are pretty bomb prrof engines not having half the technology of vechicle engines , this is not really a fair test there is no comparison between a single cylinder lawn mower engine and a car engine.
I DOES WORKS WONDERS!!
I ALWAYS DO IT TO MY MERCEDS DIESEL(w123)
IT FEEL GRAT AFTERWARDS!
Martin Santillan i was looking for someone using it for diesel and here ur , thanks 🙏
I might try it on my Mercedes Benz S420 with 210,000 miles,it runs but not as good as it should....
I think I messed up an engine years ago using Rislone Engine Flash. Remember it reminded me of carosiene mixed with alcohol. Think it clogged the lifters. I use some atf before a change. Add a few oz. to the gas every couple 1000 miles or so. I put a few oz in my 10 gallon gas can for yard work too.
Some people would say that I am not rational changing my oil every 7000km but I don't give a damn. Oil is cheaper than engines.
Cheap oil (I use Mannol) is about 30% the cost of branded oil for 5w30, has the same specifications and works just as well.
@@simonbailey2151 I used PSF Ultra of Mannol specifically for Honda & Acura, half a year, my power steering never worked this good.
Frantz oil filter or other save hundreds
I used a home cleaning detergent called AWESOME to clean the inside of my engine. Worked great. I saw a mechanic use it on a badly gummed-up motor on YT.
You just need to make sure you change your oil on a regular basis
I used it on my 22year old Merc SUV, seemed to work well,No side effects 3years on.
I have used LIQUI MOLY 300mL MoS2 Anti-Friction Engine treatment on every engine, all lasted over 225-400+ miles I own...(the racing teams use it between pit stops), It's just that good. mustang gt 225k, toyota corolla 400k, mercedes 500 300k, F150 290k, thunderbird 5.0 420k, you get the drift, no sludge if you change the oil and buy OEM filters. oB
Commonsense servicing and a quality oil additive. Well played sir.
Mercedes 500 at 300K without major issues??
BLACK MAGIC
@@Meekmillan learn to read..
I think that changing the oil with the cheapest oil and cheapest filter you can find then follow by synthetic oil soon after will have better results. Just my 2 cents.
I’m curious to know how did the area where the gasket sits on get cleaned out too if no engine flush is flowing there?
the parts he burned still looked crapped up🤣
magic hehe
Improved the performance of my 89 Jetta 1.6td. Not the most looked after engine either
Can you do the same thing but with seafoam now
Seo Specialist nice idea!
I already did thank you
My worry is in a modern engine with small oil passages if you use a flush isn't all that buildup/sludge going to have a hard time reaching the pan and possibly block ports.
Follow manufacturer's instructions and always use preventive maintenance do not allow it to become this bad.
Yes my theory is the same. I have a chevy 3.6 engine with Modern VVT and direct injection. The passeges are small. When i did timing on it, i pulled out the old VVT Solinoids and they were caked with gunk. I replaced the timing with high quality replacement with new tensioners. I think timing got bad because gunk clogged the tensioners and they werent lubed, as well as the vvt solinoids. I think running an engine cleaner would harm the engine, its at 130k miles. Thinking of running a thinner oil which in theory will flow faster thru the oil passeges and get to where it needs to be faster, versus a thicker oil. Might use very thin oil full synthetic with marvel mystery oil additive, and run for like 500 miles and then change filter and go with a high quality full synthetic 5w30. Just to clean out the passeges and try to get as much out as i can safely.
I'm back here. I take back what I say after a lot of research the sludge that builds up is liquified in a state that is impossible to block stuff. I'm actually going to use this product since I got a new car just as a cleaning thing.
for heavily sludged engines, specially VVT engines I substitute 1 qt of oil with Marvel mystery oil at every oil change at 3,000 mile intervals. 100 miles before service remove 1 qt and replace it with transmission fluid. It slowly breaks down sludge and varnish so the VVT solenoids are not damaged and the oil filter won't become clogged and bypass unfiltered oil. Most of today's engines burn oil by design so it's likely liquid moly will damage o2 sensors, air fuel sensors and catalytic converters.