Liqui moly engine flush big mistake or myth?
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- Опубліковано 2 вер 2019
- liqui moly engine flush bad idea? (Proof) or neccessary why you shouldn't use motor flush because the buildup can be extremely harmful to a modern engine. but stp engine flush isn't safe just watch the video. we also show how to use motor flush and how to flush your engine!
for more information on liqui moly engine flush or where you can find it just click the link below.
amzn.to/2ZL3kSH
be sure to watch our previous videos where we use seafoam motor treatment to clean the inside of your engine. marvel mystery oil can also work great as one of the best engine cleaner. so follow us as we try to find the best engine oil flush. how to use motor medic motor flush. can flushing your engine be harmful? is flushing your engine a bad idea? car repair and car diy with the NIA community. xado atomex total flush revitalizant tested previous. with before and after.
#liquimoly #Nia #stp - Авто та транспорт
For more information on Liqui moly engine flush or where you can find it just click the link below.
amzn.to/2LjbehZ
Dear please share is there any hazard of using liqui moly engine flush in car engine?
Is there any damage to the old engine
Should I flush the engine again with oil after I use engine flush to remove the remaining solvents in the crankcase from the engine flush?
@@msaqib79bzu you
@@seangowan7441it’s not mentioned on the bottle but others on the internet recommend after using this and drain oil, use a cheap oil and filter and drive a few miles or a day and then change oil/filter to what you want to use
been using many liqui moly products for many years..including the flush.. i have a 94 xj jeep sport with 380,000 miles.. same engine. same transmission..had compression test about a year ago..thumbs up..i give alot of credit to their products... my jeep runs and looks fabulous..and no... its not for sell...
Wow! My 2004 Jaguar XJR turns 200k miles soon, going to use Ceratec + Mos2 this next oil change -oil was changed with Liqui Moly High Tec
@@jaynikk758Hope you get same results as well. Ive had my jeep since 96 and I feel their products have helped along the way.🙂
No one wants to buy your shitty Jeep 😂
The video had the tone of an intro through out the whole thing lmao
Thanks for watching
Right?
Haha, true.. keeps us watching though
This is the only way to describe the narration on this channel 🤣
This, it was so weird when it ends and it feels like it didn't even start
I also used liqui Molly engine flush and checked before using it and compared it after using it. It helps!
I use this flush at my shop all the time, very good product, never had a single issue.
Hey Jacques is this liqui moly engine flush good for a car that been sitting in garage for 7 years??
@@montisino it is, but be sure to use another product from them called "Motor Oil Saver" after the flush. You add it in with the new oil. It will keep the seals from drying out.
@@jacquesbotha3923 I have a vw passat b7 2.0tdi with 292'000km. I'm looking to flush the engine at around 300'000km and add some ceratec to it. Car has had an oil change every 15'000km and is belt driven... shouldn't harm it? I don't have oil consumption at all
@@v12-s65 if it ain't broke... don't fix it. You'd be mad to flush a well maintained engine at that mileage imo
@@eponymous7910 yeah I've chosen otherwise. I'm not flushing anything. Car has surpassed 300'000km now. Oil changes are enough every 15'000km
Some years back, I had occasion to use an engine flush and the results were good. It was a 1991 Pontiac GA with the 2.5 engine with 107k miles and one morning after taking it on a 3000 mile trip, the engine started with a very sharp knock but kept running. When it warmed, the knock was less severe and to me it suggested a varnish problem, probably a wrist pin. I flushed per the directions and refilled with a different brand of 5w30 oil and the knock wasn't there any longer. Sold the car just a year ago with over 240k miles and the engine was quiet with very low oil consumption. It's important to see to refreshing the oil changes once it's been flushed but in the long run, it's a good treatment.
Time to try it out my man I’m convinced. Trying to save a 96 5.7 Chevy engine
260k miles 5.7 with liquid moly, drained all the gunk, pulled the pan and scraped the residue off and put it back. She runs with more compression now and 5-10% more throttle. Yes it does infact work! Let idle 15 mins before changing oil don’t rev or drive truck with the stuff in your oil just idle.
I used this product on a NC mx-5 1.8 that had covered 80,000 miles. Two years later having added 20,000 to it and it felt smoother and oil consumption over that period was nil. I was impressed.
Not trying to discredit but I think that was just placebo.
I found this video while researching whether or not to flush my MZR 1,8 in my mx5 (98k) at its next oil change.
@@JGrindel you could pop open the valvecover (install a new gasket) if its all black then maybe it could be done. but normaly when the oil is changed often enough/is still clean then it shouldnt be needed at all. my peugeot 205 1,1 with 173k is still pretty much completly clean. its all the light brown/amber oil color no black at all. and only thing which has been done is an yearly oil change
This stuff actually saved my motor. Had terrible 10psi oil pressure at idle and lifter knock and ran through so many things of what it could be. Did this as a last ditch effort and it's never drops below 35psi at idle now. This stuff does work but should only be used if having problems like I did.
What oil to flush mixture ratio did you use? (I’m having the same issue - nc1 1.8mzr 130k km)
LiquiMoly products have never failed to provide what they claim. From a 1979 MarkV 400cleveland to a 2012 PriusV, 2012 Acura TSX wagon, 2006 Accord 2.4L K series, never a problem, upped economy, performance upgraded.
Excellent to know thanks Bro own a 2006 actra tl 2012 acura tsx and a b7 audi rs4 so awsome I can use on all my cars 🚗!!
Got my car @ 50K miles and used this every other oil change. No idea how well the car was taken care of before me outside the 5K mile oil changes but after the first flush it idled smoother imo.
I haven’t had any engine problems yet @ 100K miles
After doing some internet research about the Liqui Moly Engine flush I desided to give it a try. Just had my regular oil change in an Alfa Romeo 156 Twin Spark and wow! Engine runs MUCH smoother than before! Obviously is impossible to see the difference in a closed engine but you can really hear and feel it! Even my mechanic was impressed from the result! Just make sure to leave it on a idle engine for 10 minutes, then drain the oil and change the filter and finally top up with the new fresh oil. Such a nice product! Highly recommend
How if liqui moly vs STP engine flush?
@@BagusWibisono Liqui Moly Pro Line is the better option
@@iShavegr the liqui engine flush it was did really well?
@@BagusWibisono don't expect to see any visual difference. For sure you will hear and feel the difference though after the oil change. Everything will run much more smoothly. Specially if you do the procedure after the second oil change.
Think of it as having a shower with and without soap 😂
Also if you go to a premium service center like porsche lexus etc they always use an engine flush before the oil change. Just make sure to leave it enough time to drain before you screw back the oil pan plug.
@@iShavegr thanks my friend
Got rid of a lot of the gunk. Pictures tell the story and confirm the results. Not a myth for this product, it gets a thumbs up!
The problem is, that the gunk ends up in the oil passages and can clog them. Not as much of a problem on an engine such as this that is splash lubed.
@@KolaAlade-li5db it has to circulate before it can get to the filter.
I have an 02 Audi 2.7t. I put this exact product in at 190,000 miles when I bought it. It is now at 258,000 miles and running strong.
Wow I’m about to really invest in products like these. Own the car and as long as you take care of the car the car itself will treat you and your family nice and won’t cost much money. I’m the type of guy that will run my car until it gives up. My 2010 Kia is at 220k and still running strong just did oil change and fuel treatment on every oil change as well, synthetic oil keeps my cars engine smooth and quiet as possible. Engine air filters and cabin filters changed when it’s visually can’t see the sun from the other side.
@@TrukNLife316 you should change the engine air filter more frequently in my opinion. A lot of wear comes from dirty air
@@TrukNLife316 I used diesel additives for my dad's evoque (200'000km) from liqui moly, it runs quieter now.
Should have spent more time on the after
But there was 1 second of footage! I wonder if he left it in... It's a flush that should be done right before changing the oil... Compression after new oil is the real test... Not that I care about compression... But the build up I do... It's just kerosene anyway
Very disappointing to watch all that and the big reveal was 1 second long and he didn’t even say if he liked it.
I think it works great
I used xado total flush(wich you run for 150 miles) and then liqui moly engine flush and got a good bit of power back, I also observed lower fuel consumption and lower oil consumption, I actually didn't have to top it off between oil changes on a high milage engine.
I like how you structure your presentation, very nicely done. I would've liked to see the Liquid Moly run longer than that, for cleaning purposes, but whatever.. u did a great job, thank you!
Don't use this product if you bought a car with a neglected engine. All that gunk gets released too fast. Just change your oil more frequently to even out the process.
Agreed
What we did was 5 short oil changes (2500km on a 14 year old car with close to 250,000km on it and oil blacker than a cave on a moonless night)
The first oil change was black, the second was what I'd consider dirty, but not too bad.
The 3rd change was 1/2 strength liquid moly for 15 minutes at the end of the 2500km run, before which the oil was actually not too bad, being slightly dirty, but still a dark amber color, but after the liquid moly was added the oil was blacker than the first change, but not "gritty". I repeated this after another 2500km, and the oil was initially much cleaner, probably similar to my 4 year old car with 80,000km, but after the liquid moly it was pretty dirty.
The final full strength flush 2500km later was a little scary it was so black, and after that flush we did pour 1 litre of oil through to flush out the gunk in the oil pan before replacing the drain plug. but then we returned to the standard 10,000km oil changes and the oil comes out dark, but still with a definite amber/oil tint, so yes it got rid of a lot of buildup, but also caused the engine to use a slightly larger volume of oil between changes, maybe 300ml per 10,000km, vs being maybe 100ml low (So much we never bothered filling it). The engine did sound a lot quieter, with no tappet noise at all
@@lithgowlights859 it probably used more oil because the gunk was cleared out and there was more clearance for the oil to escape or get by the rings and such. Just like if you use a solvent or cleaner to clear out the combustion chamber it lowers the compression. The build up is cleared out and the combustion technically gets larger with out all the buildup
I had this happen seized the engine in 5 minute of puting it in
Exactly my case. Looked into engine cleaners and before I even put anything in the motor I went about 3 oil changes every 2,500 miles
got an 82 suzuki sc100 from a scrapyard, took the rocker cover off and its built up bad! thought about using a product like this and i think youre videos given me that confidence to try it.
Engine oil flushes work well with a good product. There's no doubt. It will get more of the gunk and varnish out. Changing the oil while warm also mobilizes more of the old oil out of the system. Liqui Moly probably consists mainly of light naptha. Something like Stoddard solvent; (Mineral spirits, 85% nonane and 15% trimethyl benzene. This solvent thins out the oil, so you don't want to leave it in there, or put the engine under much load, so idling is correct to avoid any metal contact.
The oil will become very thin and viscous and 15 minutes or so of idling will break down the lumps and varnish, allowing a better flush when you drain it, getting more of the old oil out also.
As you state, it's not an excuse to not maintain your engine regularly and perform oil changes, but is a preventative measure to prevent build-up and varnish that can impact engine operation and wear it out prematurely. Hopefully an engine oil flush extends the life of your engine, and for the cost, avoiding you thousands in repairs down the road, it's probably worthwhile.
Wow very thorough information this is exactly what we need in the NIA community to help each other.
This was extremely helpful thank you 👀👌
well said.....its only engine idling after pouring liquimoly, strictly no load.......Nevertheless NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO done a good job,
@mark peterson Bingo! There is no magic product, just lack of maintenance
Can i use the flush on a 2011 toyota etios diesel engine? Some people say that you should not flush old engines as they are sealed by the sludge and carbon it self, and if you flush it, then it will start to leak.
Im getting this right now! Thanks for the video!
Nice work. And you let the pictures speak for themselves. Classy
Good review...and the turf looks clean and tidy too!
When I got my car with 77,060 miles on it, I had read the owner's manual and found out that the dealership had only used conventoinal 10w40 oil on a 7500 mile oil change interval after I had been doing 3000 mile oil changes and still having thick pieces of carbon flakes fill up the bottom of my oil filter housing. Turns out a Volvo S60 doesn't like conventional oil unless it is the most basic model without variable valve timing and without a turbocharger. I used this Pro-Line engine flush for about 25 minutes instead of the recommended 10 (?) and when I changed the oil, it started as Castrol Edge 10w30, but became something closer to the color of road tar, but not as thick. After that, I used their Liechtlauf 5w40 and was surprised to see that after 4000 miles, it was still golden yellow, but at 6000 miles, it was a honey color. Once my VVT solenoids went out and I replaced them, I looked in my head and the aluminum was coated in amber yellow like it only had 6000 miles on it to begin with. I have used Castrol Edge 5w30, 10w30, 5w40, 0w40, Mobil 1 5w30, 10w30, 0w40, Pennzoil Platinum 5w40, 5w30, 10w30, Rotella T5 10w30, Rotella T6 5w40, 0w40, and Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5w40, Moly-Gen 10w40, MOS2 10w40, and Top-Tec 4200 5w30 and so far the only oils that doesn't give me any carbon flakes from high heat and stress are the Rotella T6 oils and the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5w40 and MOS2 10w40. I've begun using this now for all my friends who don't understand proper oil changes and even they can notice a smoother running, more efficient engine.
Thank you. I will keep note of this.
Thanks bro for your comment
Thanks for sharing.
So the new Molygen from liqui moly wasn't that good?
I have used this cleaner for years and I trust it 100%. As a matter of fact at times I have changed the oil on my car and after couple hundred miles I go back and just change the oil filter and it still has sludge that was cleaned by this stuff. I have written back and forth with LM engineers in Germany and Im sold in all of their products. As long as they sell this stuff I will buy it.
I am using it for my Passat variant 140H 2013 AWD. Really good stuff.
Great test. Never used the product but it looks interesting.
Had a 1991 Pathfinder, started using Lubegard 95030 Engine Flush before every oil change starting at 9,000 miles. every 5,000 miles the oil was changed. It looked brown but after Lubegard the drained oil looked black. Truck had 260,000+miles on it before the frame broke. Never had a engine problem and the engine was the only thing that worked like new when the vehicle was traded.
It was black because the Lubegard actually helped the oil clean, which is supposed to happen anyway.
@@derekhobbs1102 I think I implied that.
Was it a diesel?
@@bostjanerjavec4146 No
@@derekhobbs1102 (Used synthetic Mobil-1) and I know and all that in just 10 minutes.
Nice work. Regardless of what the counter person at autozone from the comments say, your video was to the point and it does work. It’s a shame that people who changed their oil one time and think they’re a mechanic chime in and talk trash.
These engines don't have a filter. All of that crap is now being forced through oil passages.
@@tvdinner325 Who gives a FUCK?!
@@tvdinner325 nor do they have an oil pump. They sling the oil around the crankcase. It's not pumped though any passages.
Bro I've changed mine about 7 times bro I think I know what what I'm talkin about
@@BoutThatAction yeah bro same
I've been using this product on my two Benzs for over 4 years now. I also use it on my clients' cars as well. I don't measure it. I pour the entire bottle in and run it. I use it if it is my first time working on the vehicle. I use a high quality oil. At the end I add Liqui Moly Cera Tec. Cars love this stuff.
Very good i enjoy hearing what this product does for others good or bad people need to know.
What benz?i have 95 w124 and want to do engine flush..is it save?
I have an 02 ML500 and an 03 E320. I have used the engine flush in Ameican, Japanese, and European cars.
@@izkytama yes it is safe, I use Liqui Moly in my 03 Camry with 215k miles on it, still has 190-195 psi compression it runs incredibly
used this engine flush recently on the first oil change of a 1950s diesel excavator in about 40 years. appears to have done a good job, the engine runs noticeably more smoothly, and appears to idle better. the pilot that came out was very poor, and with a strainer rather than a true filter I suspect a lot of gunk was being recirculated
I used this flush in 1999 Jetta 2.0 engine that has 115K miles and after that the engine runs SIGNIFICANTLY smoother. I did this way: 1) add the can in oil and idle run engine as recommended 2) Drain the oil and put the new oil. 3) Idle run engine and drain AGAIN. 4) Now, change filter and final refill with new oil again. - great result. My car takes 4 quarts of oil, so I already had 8 quarts purchased to perform the above... Also, highly recommend couple more things: 1.use a STP fuel system cleaner before this engine flush, lets say a week before, as the fuel system cleaner works after the gas tank gets empty and you refill the gas again... and # 2. Change intake air filter too.
Why u put oil and drain again after flush? Any technical reason?
@@chetansharma-jx1ud Hi Chetan, thanks for asking... When I first drain the oil it looked like a milkshake, so I refill with a new oil, let it idle and drained again, why? - just to make sure the old oil with that flush additive is completely out. The instruction on the bottle does not say that, it is my own preference...
@@chetansharma-jx1ud he just want to make sure that no left resedues from engine flush.
I did this exact thing.
@@y0vrs3lf Great! If you also try to clean MAF sensor and Throttle Body - it will run EVEN BETTER! Note: for both, there are 2 different spray cleaners, one is specifically for MAF and the other one exactly for Throttle Body, do NOT mix! Walmart sells both cans as a kit, or check your local auto store...
I've been working at engine large and small for 40 years including building some high performance small capacity bike engines for classic racing. Engine flushing oils should be considered like this:
On a high mileage worn engine carbon built up in the rings might be actually helping keep a little compression by acting as a sort of seal in the ring groove. Removing this is not a great idea.
In a newer low mileage engine that has had poor oil maintenance and is sludged up but isn't badly worn then they are a good idea they can re open restricted oilways remove sludge that hinders oil movement and help speed up oil drain down back to the pan, all good things.
lastly on a newer engine which has had good maintenance and is not sludged you're wasting money buying it.
My mechanic says exactly the same thing
They build standard and high performance donks for clients. 50k for engines in some cases
And that’s what they said to me also. Old engine. Change oil regularly. Newer engines. U can do it. Dragging all that crud through just destroys and engine in no time
That's the problem I'm dealing with I have a 06 Silverado with 300k and it didnt have regular old changes in it until I got it and there is a lifter tapping in it and the oil pressure is a little low but not much all the videos I been watching say transmission fluid flush bit I just dont have very good luck lol
@@dewaynesmith8925 What oil are you using
@@mercedesvan-doors34 I use Castrol 10 40 high mileage
@@dewaynesmith8925 Consider doing a 'milder flush' as follows. At the next change drop the oil and add new filter, fill it with a 5-30 semi synth and run it for a week or so especially on a long run so nice and hot but watch you oil pressure just in case. After this drop this oil and replace with the usual and another new filter. I'd add Engine Restore with the new oil. I work mainly on old Jags and this can have a noticeable effect on smoothness of the high mileage ones.
Stop the myths engine oil flush proof watch ua-cam.com/video/oKuD22k0oSM/v-deo.html
I used the liqui Molly engine flush on my E90 and it did clean out quiet a bit of gunk. I just got an oil change every 7500 miles now using liqui Molly engine oil.
It will work provided the measurement of flush poured inside of the engine is accurate.
I wonder if using it a few times at a 5% mix would be more gentle than the 10% mix. My 6g72 twin turbo engine has lifter tick and I want to try to clean it before changing to big bore lifters.
I use this on all my cars every 5 oil changes (I do 4500mi OCI) as instructed by LiquiMoly as preventative maintenance. I also do this with brand new cars, every 22,500 miles. I also change the PCV valve and drop in a can of Ceratec after every flush. I have Subarus in my stable and not a single one of them burns oil, which is a problem on some of the EJ and early FB motors. About halfway to the next flush, I get a little bit of oil in the catch can with every change. 10mL on the third one, 13mL on the fourth one, and 17mL on the last one before the engine flush. This shows a little carbon building up on the oil control rings, but not enough to burn a noticeable amount of oil. I pull a sample to send to Blackstone before adding the flush (I drain an equal amount as the bottle of flush from the Valvomax fitting I install in all my Subbies), let it do it's thing, do my change, and I'm back to having a dry catch can for another 13500 miles. My Oil Analysis always comes back with flying colors (way better than the average for my cars, and one has 230k miles on it, all of them from me).
Iv used all types of flushes, I think the reason as I found out as to why not put under load is... If your car has a turbo with bad seals the flush thins the oil and risks running up on its oil as fuel did this on a pug 206 diesel bent 2 rods big learning curve, if found 1 litre of atf left in for a week has amazing results
I have a 2004 m/b 320 e and 184000 miles.
I just now tried this Liqui Moly in my gas tank and it already runs a lot smoother.
Thank you for the advice.
did you put the engine flush in the fuel tank?
@@FelipeSebben yes I did!
@@jan22150 Did you have good results or any problems?
I have a can left over here and was thinking of doing the same.
@@FelipeSebben seems to me it doesn't hurt. So far I have not had any negative results.
@@FelipeSebben this is supposed to be pourred into the engine...
Taking a torch to the OHV assembly:
Goodbye valve seals
Even if you bought the engine new, even if you make regular oil changes, even if you are a conservative driver, there is always be build up of sludge inside the engine.
Not only due to environment conditions (extremely low or high temperatures), but also to the way various components degrade over time (e.g., seals).
This is especially relevant today, as engines are quite more complex, and oil is used to lubricate even more components than just the crankshaft.
I have used It in a Mini r50 engine with 250.000 kms and very noisy tappets and It has almost solved the problem and has made engine smoother.
I bet it was your hydraulic chain tensioner
Possibly hydraulic lifters had sludge in them blocking them. You get tapping from that.
Buen video amigo, gracias por compartir
as a mechanic - you can use this. but use it as a economic way to keep a car that has been neglected running. A Engine thats been kept in its intervals and got a oil change every 10k miles shouldnt have that much oil coal buildup anyways.
Don't just don't if a motor has been neglected than that's a problem this is a bandaid not intended as a fix if the motor is seriously slugged you don't have much to gain and a lot to lose. All that crude will break off, where does it go from there? Inside the motors oil passages, into the main bearings and probably worst of all the oil pump catch screen. This may liquify slugs to an extent but it will not remain in that form for long, these are alcohol based products, the evaporate at room temp (to a degree) a fully warmed up motor is more than enough to evaporate it and what left after a oil change will harden back up.
Focus think sludge is only a bad thing but it does have some benefits as it will quiet a loud motor and will also junk up worn out gaskets, if you use something like this the end result could very well be a loud, ticking, leaky mess (which originally existed I will admit) but with the sludge that settles removed from said gaskets causing any previously existing damage to become more obvious (like increased oil leaks). Theres just not a lot to gain, motor oil has a ton of detergent in it the way it is if you have a problem simply change the oil more often that is by far the safest bet the stuff is intended to clean.
Best case someone uses this on a motor in good condition to remove some slight varnish, no major sludge exists to be removed so no fear of clogging the oil pump catch screen however there isn't much to gain from this best case either. If you do use this please follow up with a short oil change even if you buy the cheapest oil you can find and run it for 200-300 miles to help flush any remaining lose sludge out it will be worth the added time (assuming you're doing your own oil change).
Well said
i agree with you... like in malaysia, EO like shell advance ax7(semi synthetic 10W/40) has it own active cleansing technology in it engine oil... for motorcycle 😁😁 what say you?
After buying a used Prius we noticed it used a good deal of oil on the highway. Using Liquid Moly, synthetic oil, and Restore oil additive, the oil consumption dropped considerably. This isn't a one time deal. We've had to use it again because of the bad design of the piston ring oil supply orifice.
Prius benefit from the PROPRIETARY FORMULA 0W/20 molygen oil.
How often are using this method to slow down the oil consumption?
@@dashcamjourney4599 Once the piston rings start leaking oil, there is no cure besides redoing the piston rings…
@@christophervanzettado they start to wear just with time or is there preventive maintenance that could be done to prevent it
I have also used engine flush to remove varnish from the friction plates in limited slip differentials with very positive results.
Seems to work pretty damn well.
yeah saw video on auction auto saab oil pressure problem and valves rattle. he bought it and ran ,, problem solved
Now I'm convinced to try this on my 06 altima
I used Liqui Moly Engine Flush today on my A6 C6 2.0 TFSI which just passed 250 000km. Did an extra oil change after draining the old oil with the flush in it. It came out dark as the night :) So the Extra Oil change sure did remove even more of the old oil/dirt. Poured new oil in with Liqui Moly Ceratec and the engine is quite as never before. I also noticed the car ran much smoother than before. Less ticking noice which the 2.0 TFSI is fameus for.
I have used engine flush once before. Let the car idle for about 10mins maybe a bit less. Pulled the plug and let everything drain while I inspected the suspension and brakes. Wanted to make sure it drained everything that it was going to. After put the drain plug back in with a new crush washer(first oil change of my ownership). Filled up with formula shell oil and a wix filter.
That was well over a year ago.still not a problem.
I use liqui moly in my integra and it always makes a difference, it’s really good stuff and worth it!
Why Liqui Moly says leave the engine to idle is because it is a detergent, not a lubricant. Oil's ability to lubricate is decreased with this additive, but cleaning ability is greatly increased, so running it at load can in worst case harm the engine.
very interesting! could you please try and check the results with Syntoflon ET? thanks
Does this have hydraulic lifters? That's what's the problem from what I've heard is the lifter passageways getting blocked
Exactly but no body will answer to this because it’s true 😉
No my car is perfectly fine
Just to be clear, if your going to flush your engine/transmission do it right, change your oil twice, and your filter once. After you’ve done the initial oil change and put a new filter on, drive for a few miles and then drain the oil again. If it’s still clean your good, if not then go ahead and change it once more. Also it’s typically not a good idea to use transmission flush if yours hasn’t been maintained very well. When people say that oil is the only thing holding it together, that can very well be the case. Seen it happen plenty of times.
It does t damage the engine. It only removes the gunk in the damaged engine that was constricting the oil flow.
@@im-that-guy-pal never said it did. However if it’s been a long time with transmissions or an engine with no change, your gonna discover alot of leaks that you never knew you had before.
I used it on my 22year old Merc SUV, seemed to work well,No side effects 3years on.
Amazing And Very Informative 💯👍🏾
I use this on my Mercedes E55 AMG and my Jeep Wrangler it works wonders!
In fact, I use all Liqui Moly oil products and additives! Opened up my engine to do my valve covers and it looks brand new!
Liqui Moly is the best! Their new oil Molygen is the best! Better than any other oil I have used! I also love there certec!
Do you use molygen in your car?
I recently started using LM Octane Booster because except for one brand, none of the premium fuels here have enough octane, or god forbid, more than required... actually I just order a 5-pack after firing through a 3-pack this past weekend :) I looked in to flushes and would use this, but I don't because I have the car serviced at the dealership and of course they don't approve, but if I buy a pre-owned car, I would use this first thing.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the NIA community.
What can we try next?
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO tribotex!
Some people would say that I am not rational changing my oil every 7000km but I don't give a damn. Oil is cheaper than engines.
Cheap oil (I use Mannol) is about 30% the cost of branded oil for 5w30, has the same specifications and works just as well.
@@simonbailey2151 I used PSF Ultra of Mannol specifically for Honda & Acura, half a year, my power steering never worked this good.
Frantz oil filter or other save hundreds
Hi, I had problems with my fiat 500 multijet (diesel) with 85K km. The car started to consump far more diesel per mile and was not going as fast as it was. I started with DPF additives. No big change. I proceded with aditives for nozzles. The change was not very significant. I also noticed, the oil at the change was very dirty - black. It's normal on diesels, but this was too much. It's not so old car. When I saw some things about engine flushing on youtube, I bought an engine flusher (Adinol). I took about 1/2 litres of engine oil away and aded Adinol oil flusher. Ran my engine for about 1/2 hour in neutral with pushing throttle up and down and finaly let my oil out. I was surprised at how dirty the oil this time was. I mean - I changed it only 1K kilometers back. I let the oil to get out for several hours, lifting and letting the car up and down - to get everything out. Also changed oil filter. Than have put new oil and filter. When I started the engine and ran it for some time throtteing it up and down, I have checked the oil on my dipstick. It was much cleaner than ever after oil change. After, when using my car, some significant changes occured. First of all - my gas mileage dropped for more than 1 liter/100 KM. The car also seem to be much more alive and fast, but it's hard to say, I haven't do the final test on the highway yet. When the car was new, I made something between 190 and 200 KM/H. Later when problems occured it made 180 KM/H +. Since it's hard to get empty highway, I haven't checked the final speed yet. But my filing is it goes much better, but still not as good as new. I must admit that the greatest job I still have to do - cleaning the intake manifold, valves and EGR valve - be happy for tips.
About the engine flushing, I can only say it is a real revelation for me. I can remember several diesels in my life starting running some kind of heavy at mileage above 50.000 KMs. I think engine flushing would have done a great job for them too.
what car do you have? Planning to do it on my passat diesel at just before 300'000km. I don't have any problems with it, just wanna keep it running smooth.
Great demonstration
Could you do the jmb fuel injection Cleaner
Only used flush once, when going from Semi to Fully Synthetic. Used the ORIGINAL Slick50 additive, and that was impressive for friction reduction (quiet engine), but the modern version is useless. If you change the oil on a regular basis you shouldn't get build up anywhere except in the combustion chamber, and maybe a tank of Shell V-Fuel every once in a while would take care of most of that. If additives were any good , don't you think the oil companies would put it in to start with. So to a point in the vlog I certainly agree with, if you think the engine has had a hard life with someone and a flamethrower, sure, go ahead, it makes sense.
What about someone who bought a used vehicle that was not regularly maintained? For instance, an older vehicle that they want to restore. Didn't think about that, did you?
@@TX_Lawyer if you flush an older vehicle, everything that it cleans out can clog the lifters and oil pick up tune. Didn’t think of that?
@@GripGarage There is an old engine slow flush option from liqui moly which will softly remove buildup and not all at once so you dont damage sludge engines.
@@K0nst4nt1n96 Bruh, if the engine was poorly maintained don’t bother. I’m an automotive technician and most people get burned this way ad the damage is already done. There’s no way to reverse it besides a rebuild
@@christophervanzetta why not try it? If it works it works and if it doesnt it doesnt?
My car had problems with the oil flowback valves and one engine flush did the trick and now they work again. I could have replaced them but 10€ for a flush and it worked fine for me.
Great video mate. Like how you done it, I think it keeps it interesting the way you done it. Quite fun and useful too so most likely going to give the flush ago on the new project car after seeing this. Cheers mate
Cheers Mate .
Soundz Like ya Strailyun Mate from Strailya huh .
Onya me2 🍻
Well, the algorytm has blessed me - So as a mechanic allow me to shred some facts upon you on additives.
Adding an additive like this will indeed clean the engine as you see here, Problem is when you add it to the engine oil, the lubricating abilities of the oil gets reduced and you also change the viscocity of the oil (viscosity being rather important to maintain correct oil pressure). Now in a lawnmower engine i doubt it'll have much effect but in modern cars, prolonged useage with additives in the oil can cause serious damage.
Especially now that the piston rod bearings have been replaced, They used to be constructed from lead, but due to enviormental rules blabla they're made from a less toxic metal, Wich sadly is damaged easier.
There is also the question on wether or not such additives will cause damage to gaskets and internal o-rings in the engine. ( i.e an engine oil cooler if your car has that)
I DOES WORKS WONDERS!!
I ALWAYS DO IT TO MY MERCEDS DIESEL(w123)
IT FEEL GRAT AFTERWARDS!
Martin Santillan i was looking for someone using it for diesel and here ur , thanks 🙏
I might try it on my Mercedes Benz S420 with 210,000 miles,it runs but not as good as it should....
Liquimolly flush is awesome. I use it on every single vehicle I work on and/or own.
Have you used it on a modern turbocharged engine as well?
@@kwbalance108 yes. All the time both stock and upgraded turbos.
Is that any side effect such as males your rubber seals in the engine become corrosive?
@@sujatmikoafandi no. As a matter of fact, liquimoly flush specifically has conditioners to replenish and keep your rubber seal healthy so they don’t crack. And changing oil frequently at 3-4k miles prevents them from leaking for considerably longer times. This is important especially in BMWs because these drivers ignore the oil changes for 10-15k miles which leads to leaks in so many of the BMWs & then these cars get a bad reputation. In reality, BMW is no more prone to leaking than Japanese cars that are known for their reliability.
Japanese cars have very low power output so their mechanicals are not subject to performance level stress so they don’t get leaks and issues… BMWs are performance vehicles so the stresses in parts are two to three times higher tham Japanese low powered cars.
Nice video, thanks for sharing!
Bought a BMW 335d with 90k miles. They went with the recommended oil change intervals (1 year/15k miles basically) and it was idling a little rough. Threw some oil flush in on after the fresh oil change the dealer did. Put in lm ceratek and their in spec oil for the car. Night and day difference it definitely took some gunk out with it.
I use marvel mystery oil for engine flush ., and works great
VOLTRON i’m with you friend I enjoy Marvels mystery oil it’s a great product and I put my gasoline every time I fill my tank I’m a mechanic of 23 years and I’ve seen great improvements throughout all the vehicles I have owned
simsneon2 can I add that to my 2012 Jaguar XF 5.0 V8?
Makeveli Customs yes marvels mystery oil can be added to your gasoline and engine oil I will say follow the directions on the back of the bottle to the letter it is fairly inexpensive and sold at Walmart it is also catalytic converter safe it helps with upper lubricant when added to the fuel system and also protect coats and cleans the fuel system I love it it’s been around for a very long time I put about 4 ounces in every time I fill my tank but try for two or three tanks if you don’t like it discontinue use I’ve used it for decades now thank you for your interest my friend have a wonderful day
When checking compression needle should jump up half way of maximum at first hit till it Macs out
So I say all that to say iv was adviced that I should use the mystery oil,But would you think it will help unclog my oil lines,or pump or what ever I cloged up??Thanks in advance
How I used it, removed old oil, put in cheap but correct type of oil with the same old filters. Idle till operating temp. Put the flush in the engine, run idle whatever min says it to run. Drain oil and keep the oil nut and filter removed for at least 12hours. Then fill with new oil and new filter. It did a good job
@jxxcool Did you put the Liqui Molly inside your engine while the oild was hot or did you wait for the engine to get cold ? I wanna try this as well. Thank you
@@mihai0377 1 year late, yah while it is hot
@@jxx1234 did you put the whole bottle
Thanks for the video.
I use this product with my 93' Mazda Familia, i had 300 thousand KMS and runs great. Liqui Moly is Loqui Moly!
I believe engine flushes work very well, my only concern is someone buying a used car with some sort of stop leak in the system getting flushed out. Also the variable valve timing systems may be sensitive to things like it
do you think it might damage a bmw n52 engine ? got it used 170k kilometers
I'm torn as to whether I should do it on my newly purchased 2014 Mini Cooper S with 76k miles. It runs great!, especially after I changed the spark plugs, ignition coils, and air filter and ran intake valve cleaner through the pipe. But in this effort to ensure the car's starting off with as clean of a slate as possible, I'm tempted to flush the engine...then just proceed to take care of all maintenance religiously.
I did the flush and oh my , the car got smoother , quiter and the response was regained
Never seen a stop-leak actually work. At best it might slow the oil loss a tiny bit. These stop leaks have a seal-sweller chemical which can cause main bearing seals to become "wrapped around the axle", literally, which will definitely not help oil consumption
@@chrisjfox8715 Could you share your results if you did this? & If so how often did you have to change your oil to get the black out to normal color oil. Thanks.
Amsoil engine flush next
Coming very soon
I have a 2006 Chevy suburban that started smoking at about 200,000 miles thought that I had a major problem seen This flush thing that it was made in Germany and decided to give it a test after the first bottle the smoking went away on start up and now I use the additives and the liquid flush every oil change and I’ve noticed my oil pressure being better and my oil consumption being down I have 262,000 miles on it now and it runs like a top
Dont use it too much you’ll eat away your seals and gaskets because of the concentration of detergent
Hi I'm from Tamil Nadu State India
Thanks for your MSG wish you all the best happy journey your life
Engine flush works great, cleaned my oil ways when sat for 2 years. Perfect oil pressure resumed again. Ran it for 20mins before changing oil and filter
Which brand you used?
@@aldocraycray liqui moly ofc
This Oil impurities where it goes if it in car engine .
I don’t believe in any flashes
@@user-gb9vd9xv9y it's not a mystery, it's supposed to go down into the oil pan, and you do a full oil change after. i mean it's not going to fully flush clean whole inside of the engine, but it helps clean the major buildups.
@@shawonr3325
That what you think 🤔
Many people do that and they damaged their engine
I've ran this product on my 350z on its last 2 oil changes. I only used a 1/2 bottle to what remained oil from a 5qt oil capacity at service time. The oil that I drained after both changes was very dirty, and the 2nd oil change was only at about 2000mi, but I decided to move to 10w-40 for summer here since it gets warmer than 5w30 is ideal for in the VQ motors. I'm sure my system is looking pretty flushed inside.
Was your oil dirty before ?
@@Moemoe-st3yp Not really, more "typical dirty" doing oil changes without the liquimoly. With the additive, the oil was noticably thinner, drained faster, and had sediment in the bottom of the pan that wasn't there before. The 2nd flush came out looking much closer to normal, which tells me only a 1/2 dose flush is really needed every so often, maybe like on the 5th oil change, so long as you're running synthetic and changing at
I change my oil on my Infiniti m35x but I feel like it last like 500-600 miles with a full oil change but when I check the oil it be black but I put good oil you think it’s dirty in the oil and I should clean it out ?
@@Moemoe-st3yp I suspect you may have some build up in the valves/camshaft. It's worth a shot, but I wouldn't recommend using more than a 1/2 bottle each oil change for the next 2 changes. If you're in a warm climate (over 75F), use 10w40, especially in the summer, that helps much more than doing a flush, although I'd flush the system first before switching. These Nissan motors run HOT, especially in the top end, and 5w30 breaks down super fast, and burns off until you're down a quart before you know it.
@@DaveDuzzit yeah I live in New York the it’s around 75F sometimes.... yeah I do use 5w30.... ima use 10w40 next time . Thank you
Just used this on my 17 Mini Cooper S with 57,000 miles. Average oil changes have been every 4000 miles prior to flushing the engine. Make sure you mix this with your current oil in the crank case after the engine is up to temp. Idle for 10-15 minutes depending on engine condition. Drain oil. I would suggest using a rinse oil (same weight and type-synthetic, conventional, etc.) but less expensive than the oil you plan to use for the actual oil change). Run that for 10-15 minutes. Then drain and change oil and filter per your standard process. My head was relatively clean prior to the flush but, the flush did quiet the motor down a bit and smooth out the idle, especially in sport and sport+ mode. If you do regular maintenance, flushing the motor should not cause any issues.
Very informative video bro.
I have used it , it's good for every engine.
You can do the exact same thing by adding a quart of automatic trans fluid to your oil. When Ford first started using vvt, doing an oil change with a quart of trans fluid and driving for 300 miles was step one in the diagnostic process. No bullshit... That's what Ford says to do. So, you can spend however much on this stuff or just change your oil with one quart replaced with a $3 quart of trans fluid.
I really appreciate this thank you for sharing with the NIA Community.
That trick is old as the hills. ATF has strong detergents to keep valve bodies, pumps and orifices clean in automatic transmissions. I have a 2005 Nissan Xtrerra with 450,000 original miles , no rebuild. I installed a Fumoto drain valve and remove 20% of the engine oil and replace it with transmission fluid 500 miles before an oil change. I also used the same technique on my over the road trucks( Mack/Freighterliner/Volvo).The all went over 750,000 to 1,000,000 miles before trading in or selling. I use Liqui-Moly products but not the engine flush . It does work and is a good product but the tranny fluid technique I find works better and is very cost effective..Their Mso2 additive and engine oils are excellent. I cannot forget to mention that Marvel Mystery Oil and Rislone Engine treatment are also excellent for engine cleaning. I have experimented with both products versus ATF . They all work extremely well and are very cost effective.
I was happy to see your comment my uncle taught me that when I was just a 14-year-old boy. 1 quart of transmission fluid in your oil
the problem being ATF wasn't specifically designed to clean but to lubricate, it works because of it's relatively high detergent concentration... but you are better off using purpose built stuff, it's going into the engine after all, get the right stuff and it'll do the job you want it to do properly
I see a lot of videos about claiming the engine flush damages the engine long term.. my mechanic suggested to use it for my Audi Q5.. pls advise is it safe?
I just did a Toyota engine flush with my 660cc Japanese Hatchback. Kept the car idle 15 minutes instead of 10 and surprisingly the engine got smoother and I could feel specially cuz I live in the hills. The car was going up the motorway up the mountain with less effort 👌
Plus more mileage.
Hi, can you make a vedio on how to remove build-up carbon on exhaust valve and compartment without opening the motor of the 4 stroke engine tiller , thanks a lot .
Not sure if this is useful but I have a Lexus GS300 with about 200, 000 miles on the clock. The idle valve was clogged and sticking badly {very badly}. Would surge, high rev, stall at the lights etc and I esd looking at a $2000 repair. I figured I would gamble six cans of liqui molly fuel system cleaner over four weeks. Problem has completely disappeared and the car is perfect again. I am a devotee of everything liqui moly
@@petesmith9472 All you had to do was to remove the air box hose & clean the throtle body intake & butterfly valve with some throtle body spray & a soft tooth brush & a clean cloth..🤔
Can you do the same thing but with seafoam now
Seo Specialist nice idea!
I already did thank you
I use exclusively Liqui Moly products on my Audi S3 including the engine flush. I flush mine every 4th oil change and it's always been fine for me.
Thank you for the video
The after photo looks suspect to me. Why is the oil more prevalent in hard to reach places (around rocker nut)?
Yup ... this is one giant advert ...
You just need to make sure you change your oil on a regular basis
Very informative..
another great video! Thanks Nate!
it's fine for older engines with high miles but all the new car dealers around here want to put in with oil changes in brand new cars. theres no reason to put it in a brand new engine.
I prefer preventive maintenance but changing the oil regularly will be sufficient.
If customers tend to not change the oil on the specified oil change date or milage i’d highly recommend this even if its a new car. Why? Simply because of gunk that gets collected on the engine and we cant see it
Depends on the engine, direct injection petrol OR diesel engines suffer the worst, and worst again if its turbo, and 99.9 percent of engines have egr which doesnt help. Direct injection engines dont get the valves (washed) by fuel at all, as it bypasses them, hence the massive carbon build up on valve stems... but were not talking intake carbon here, oil doesnt flow there so it wonr be cleaned anyways unless u use an intake decarbon cleaner. I use and recommend all the liqui moly products, except rheir oil
@@tassie4x499 why you doesnrt use theyr oil? i use LM 4200 in my delta 1.6 jtd and its better than the Selenia the brand recomend
@@rjsvids i dont use their oil, for 2 reasons..... not many places stock it here in Australia, and also its extremely expensive here conpared to other high end fully synthetic oils available. If it were priced more competitive and readily available i would use it👌
Will dirt clog oil lines in head, crank shaft...? After deposit released in free flow oil?
it shouldnt clog unless you have a oil line leakage somewhere...
The product actually breaks down deposits fine enough to where it won’t clog oil screens and oil lines
@@joshuabillingsley9797 the only question here - wouldn't it break down some plastic pieces used in the engines in the same way? Like pump rotors or receivers.
I actually had bought couple of bottles and now I am really scared to use it in my Mazda CX-5 :)
@@vladt4010 shouldnt do that...
It shouldnt unless they are allready compromised. Just like seals and gaskets in the engine. If they are worn out and gunk has built up. Sometimes it seals leaks, using this would clean that gunk away and it could leak again.
But dont stress the engine while flushing. I would run the engine first till its warm, add the product then restart and let idle for 10 mins then flush it out of the engine.
Seems like it worked GREAT,wish you would've talked some about the before and after....Video was still much appreciated....
I used B12 in my engine before about half a bottle ran it for about 5 minutes oil came out black engine still ran good that was in a 69 short wheel base Chevy pickup truck with a 350 engine
Vitamin b12?
I see what looks like scraping marks on the rocker arms in the after picture....also I don’t see any outline from the gasket or any difference from the surfaces where the gasket was....something just seems off about the after picture
True
Would you just be quiet don't spook the sheeple, and just buy the affiliate marketing product, they had to mow their LAWN to do this test for YOU, can you give them some slack ,and stop being so critical ? Geesh !
Now be quiet and check out the product in their discription !
A couple of comments for those who would be tempted to try this on their own lawnmower rather than a car:
1. It is not realistic to use a compression tester on a 4 stroke lawnmower engine as it has a compression release which is active at cranking rpm. This is usually why there is no change after the engine has been worked on.
2. The lawnmower engine is air cooled and runs approx 40% hotter under load than an automotive engine. This means the oil has to be able to handle the lubrication requirements at those elevated temps, and most automotive oils won’t for any extended time. I am not sure if the Liquid Moly will either?
3. I know you were just proving a point but it would not be cost effective on a small engine even if it did work. If you keep the air filter clean and change oil regularly there will be no need.
All my cars are air cooled
I think this is more just as a demonstration
@@Jim-lv6jc uh, what cars you got?
@@johnb8956 76 Volkswagen Kombi and a 57 Volkswagen Beetle
@@Jim-lv6jc nice
I think that changing the oil with the cheapest oil and cheapest filter you can find then follow by synthetic oil soon after will have better results. Just my 2 cents.
Can u do a ceramic liqu molly oil treatment? The additive coats the entire engine and pistons lubricating the engine less friction and liberates metal parts I quess .we all would like to know thanks Joey 😊