😉My wife recently asked me " You were a mechanic when we first got married, why did you stop doing your own maintenance on our trucks?" My reply? " I think after 46 years of "DYI" I can feel just as much pride and satisfaction I can afford to pay the young fella's/gals to do it. Great video as usual Brad
I'm not a mechanic, but I fixed my vehicles out of necessity. . Now. I'm like nope ill pay to get most of it done . Except for things that I think will be fun.
When I was a mechanic there were no computers controlling everything and almost everything was analog, you had room in an engine compartment to access everything easily so yeah it's not worth my aggravation, I'll pay someone else.
@@michaeldurling793 I'm definitely not a mechanic, and I usually end up not having a needed part or tool when I encounter the unexpected (like the top nut on my drag link being seized and not coming off). It's my only vehicle so I can't just run to the store to get a new part when R&R'ing something 😕 so taking it to a quality mechanic is priceless...
Heh. Did all our vehicle repair work for 30 years before I sat down with a pad and calculated that it was more expensive between parts costs and lost wages to do my own work than to buy a new vehicle and just pay attention to periodic maintenance. With that my wife said "OK."
Watched this vid again. I just visited Jerry and Edgar at Shift Autowerx yesterday and they gave my JL the twice over. All was well and got some needed rear diff maintenance done. Very friendly, helpful and quick turn around on my Jeep. Added bonus was that Prickly Pear was in the shop and in a bay when I got there and then parked out front of the shop when I picked up my JL. Fun to see it up close. Thanks for the recommendation of my new Jeep mechanic. By the way, also bought a T shirt and will do some advertising for Shift!
Brad, your level of patience and optimism is truly something special and inspiring. The "feel good" your videos leave me is something i really appreciate and look forward to. Thank you for another great video!
Those front springs are not long enough, and with the shackle at the front, the first time you drop a tire into a deep hole and it rebounds up, you will lock that shackle behind the spring perch again. Peterson's 4wheel and offroad has covered this issue with lots of jeeps. Generally you want your shackle angle to be 30-45 degrees pointing forwards, yours looks to be close to 90. A shackle reverse will help, but you'll prob find better ride quality if you go back to your old springs and put the springs over the axle rather than under. You will achieve the same 4" of lift, but better ride. It is not a bolt in swap. It will require welding new spring pads to the axle, but you can correct pinion angle better when you do this. There are cross over steering kits aplenty for that dana 44 front end, and that will get rid of the bump steer and move your tie rod above the leaf springs to prevent damage. If you don't change those shackle bushings soon, you will learn about the death wobble. It is a really beautiful old jeep. It also might be easier just to get a complete universal wiring harness with newer style blade fuses rather than trying to chase down electrical gremlins. Corroded grounds or connectors, dissimilar metals corroding, rodents having chewed wires, or just plain deteriorating insulation on wires causing cracks and water intrusion. In the long run, it will be so much less head ache. I really like that you are taking on this project. I cannot get over how pretty and how nice of condition that jeep is in.
Oh the memories of the jeeps of the 70’s. They were so easy to work on but I’d never trade down from my modern vehicles. The reliability is so improved today.
Welcome again to FSJ World! When I did my lift on the Chief I had to cut out every single attachment bolt, so consider yourself lucky there. I also had to take a 4x4 post and ratchet straps to flatten out my springs to get them to lengthen enough to install. A scary feat for sure. You may want to get used to the bumpiness. It will smooth out some with flex, but with that much arch, it’s going to be a little bouncy. I also choose to bypass my ammeter in the dash and run all new power and ground cables. At the same time I did a couple breakers (one for the cab power, one for the alternator). Bumped up to a much higher amp one wire alternator. Much safer, with greater charging and amp allowance. Might consider the bypass at the least.
Car that old, changing the brake booster & master cylinder and flex brake lines is a lifesaver. Depending on the age, I'd also change the following items. Water pump. Fuel pump. Radiator. Trans cooling lines. Brake lines. Alternator. All hoses and belts. New grounding straps. Battery cables. Open, inspect, & change rear end lube. Starter motor. Ignition key tumbler-switch. Inspect exhaust as needed. Heater core. Heater blower motor. U-joints
Did Gerry say MAPLE SYRUP!!! At 78 I'm more than happy to pay a mechanic. As a carpenter in my early years, necessity by low income DIY. Here in Ore, when 18 deg, I'm like, GEE IM GLAD IM RETIRED! Remembering others have to make a living also. Today going to VA Cli ic in Eugene then out 🏕 yay! Have a diesel heater to keep me warm after hiking. Doing thi gs couldn't do younger. Also, Army Vet, France 🇫🇷 and Nam. IM PROUD TO BE AN AMERICAN, GOD BLESS THE USA! And thank you for your service, Brad. My rig, had 98 k1500 Silverado, upgraded to 2015 k1500.....trying out this week! Yay!
loving your PPP.... she looks amazing and once up and running with the tlc still needed your smile will be bigger than the grand canyon. I am not really into jeeps over here in England but PPP is the history and class that shouldnt be forgotten. I got a few small jobs done on my old Pajero 4x4.. i still want to add taller stiffer springs and then new brake lines as it already has a 2 inch body lift i did last year. I want to get her out soon and spend a night or 2 in a tent along side her.
I’m sure you realize this already but you really need to move the shackle mounts inboard if you plan to off-road that thing. As soon as you flex it up those shackles will pop back up. They need to be angled inward from end of spring to center of the spring. Loving this project man! Keep it up!
When all else fails; read the instructions. I purchased a "Chiltons" for all my vehicles (but really appreciated not having to use it). Real frustration comes from working on a creeper under a vehicle in MN when it's well below zero. That lift is perfect. Although it will look better with 33's.
Shackle angle has a huge effect on how your rig will ride. From what I can tell from the video is that the springs you purchased were stock length then rearched to provide the desired lift, but made them too short in the process. This made your shackles run an inline angle which does not allow for much movement. This was demonstrated by needing to pry the front shackles to get them to fit. If the springs were the right length the shackles would have been almost perfectly vertical with little weight on the springs and at about 30 degrees with the weight of the vehicle on them. This allows for the spring to flex. The solution is to either reorder longer springs or relocate the shackle mounts in order to get a better shackle angle. I would recommend getting some Alcan Springs made. Pricy but the best!
The leaf pings will settle down with miles/time. Give the old gal a few months/miles she'll come around and settle down. When I was younger and in college, we would take a second set of leaf springs for whatever car we had, and would cut off the ends of each leaf, then stuff the cut off leafs in between the existing leafs. It made a huge difference in stance and ride, as you see on your rig. It was (and is) an affordable lift when you're in college and money is scarce! lol Looking forward to future videos!
Doing a shackle reversal on the front as well as slightly longer rear shackles will improve the ride quality greatly. We ran into a similar issue lifting an old IH Scout. Thanks for the awesome content and hard work you put into sharing your adventures with us!
Great video! Love the build. Let the leaf springs settle. Then point rear pinion 2-3 degrees (using shims) lower than it pointing directly at the transfer case, and use a double cardan driveshaft. This is due to pinion rotating upward, on load, for a leaf spring vehicle. And I agree with others that the front shackle angle looks way off. It should be 20-40 degrees forward depending on on-road, or off-road ride. Might consider shackle reversal, but either way might need to move spring perch in order to get optimal ride quality.
Prickly Pear is my favorite of your vehicles. So cool! Different shocks aren't going to help with the ride. Your shackle angles are too vertical. That is causing the bouncy rough ride, because the shackle bushings are taking all the hits from the road instead of letting the springs and shocks to their job. Your lift springs are technically too short. This is common when companies do lift springs. They start with a factory spring length and add deeper arches which shortens the springs. You need custom springs built to allow for proper shackle angle. Because of this, your shackles can easily invert and pin themselves against the frame under full articulation and it is sketchy fixing that on the trail! Atlas Suspension is where I get my leafsprings. Call and ask for Fernando. Send him this video and photos of your shackle angle, and explain to him what you are trying to achieve. His shop is in City of Industry, so just up the freeway from you. He will install them too if you want.
You can buy a vehicle or build the vehicle you want from scratch. I like building the vehicle you want, even though it does come with challenges. Looks like you have a fun build going there, look forward to seeing how it comes along. Jason
Would love to see some more info from Jerry on the channel. He needs to be invited out on an overlanding trip. He can periodically give Jeep mechanic tips along the journey. Thanks Brad for the great content!!!
Is that plumbing hardware I see at 3:28? :) Does my heart good to see a new brake master cylinder and booster going in. I sometimes have new parts that I'm planning to install and they end up sitting on the shelf for a long time. So glad you took yours out of the box! Stay safe Brad!
Boosters get weak over the years. If you have a rig from the 70s 80s 0r 90 and haven't replaced the break vac booster its a must. You will be amazed at how fast you can stop with a new one
Years ago when I needed my Cherokee lifted to accommodate taller narrow tires, they merely added single leaf's on each set giving me appx. 2.5 inches of lift. I didn't experience the handling and other issues associated with higher lift's. My steering radius change was microscopic and overall I was pleased with the project.
That is a fantastic new stance Brad. Most definitely took it from the station wagon feel to an offroad rig. Prickly Pear is looking good. Hope you get the rest sorted out to actually take it offroad soon.
Love the old vehicle content, keep it coming! Currently lifting a K5 Blazer and battling similar 'old' vehicle issues. Recommend everything you can reasonably replace - do it when opportunity presents itself, i.e., shackles, bushings, etc. And...4" is a fairly high lift - keep the tire size moderate or new problems will surface. GOOD LUCK!!!
HI BRAD 👋 LOVE THIS ! MY NEPHEW IS / DID RAISE MY 1999 FORD F150 XLT 4.6L EXTENDED CAB 4X4 FOR NEVER THOUGHT OF DOING IT WHEN TASTY WAS NEWER / ? / NEW 3 " TORSION KEYS FOR THE FRONT & 5" BLOCKS IN THE REAR AXLES . TASTY HAS ALMOST 300,000.0 MILES ON HER . WHEN YOU SAID STIFF I HAD TO LAUGH / YOU DEFINITELY DON'T KNOW HOW BUMPY THE ROADS ARE UNTIL YOU GET THIS DONE TO YOUR VEHICLE , POT HOLES LETS NOT GO THERE ! / WITH THE 5 " LIFT I GOTTEN 295 18R 70 NITTO RIDGE GRABBERS LT TIRES & NEW RIMS , TASTY CAME WITH 17 " RIMS , SHE LOOKS AWESOME . MY 94 YEAR OLD MOM NEEDS A STEP LADDER TO GET IN & OUT NOW . BIG DIFFERENCE . WE GOTTEN NEW BILSTIEN EXTENDED SHOCKS 4" / 6" PLAY . TOOK HER ACROSS THE STREET TO CHECK OUT IF THE TIRES HIT ANYTHING . WHEN WE DRONE SLOWLY AROUND THE CHURCH PARKING LOT WE HEARD A POP THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BRACKET PASSENGER SIDE BROKE 🤔 WAS ONLY ON BY A THREAD .SO ORDERED NEW ONES . FOUND OUT HOW STIFFFFFFF SHE WAS ON THE WAY HOME FROM ANNAPOLIS . GOD WHAT A DIFFERENCE ! YES FRONTEND BOUNCE , AMEN TO 🙏 THAT . DON'T KNOW IF THERE ARE MADE DIFFERENT UPPER CONTROL ARMS TO HELP WITH THE HITTING THE METAL BUMP STOPS IN THE FRONT FRAME 🤔 MIGHT HAVE TO CUT THE BUMP STOPS 🤔 & REBUILD THEM ON AN ANGLE ? TO GIVE MORE ROOM ? THE COVERS TO THE FRONT AXLES TORE FROM THE DIFFERENT ANGLE SO TASTY IS SETTING IN THE DRIVEWAY UNTIL MY NEPHEW CAN PUT THE NEW AXLES ON HER WITH THE NEW CONTROL ARMS, CALIBERS FOR THE FRONT BRAKES TOO . BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T GO AS PLANNED ! SO WE LEARN AS WE GO , SAVE UP MORE MONEY AS WE GO , HOPEFULLY TURNS OUT AS MOVE AHEAD ? THANK YOU 🙏 GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏
High arch lift springs for "Spring under axle" tend to be a little rougher. There are some tricks you can do to help. Alot of us YJ guys run the spring and shackle bolts much looser than the factory torque spec, and use nylock nuts to keep them from coming off. (40 ft lbs instead of 90) The angle of your shackles is nearly vertical,(which makes for a rougher ride) ideally getting it closer to a 45* angle makes a huge difference but its easier said than done. Hopefully you can look into those things and get some ideas. Alot of the same tricks YJ guys use should cross over to FSJ. I would consider some longer shackles as well which will add a little more height also but reach easier too. Hope that helps! -Dan
This reminds me of working on my first motorcycle a 1974 CB360. One thing always led to another. It was so rewarding to work on and the local Honda dealers mechanics would teach me in exchange for some shop cleanup time. I don’t think too many guys of my generation have set mechanical ignition or synchronized carburetors. I’ll be going to see the guys at Shift once I decided to lift and fit 37s on the Bronco but not until some more tested solutions are available and it’s been relieved of daily driver duties.
Great vid Brad. Need to get my wife's TJ into Shift and have some work done. Enjoying the Prickly Pear project and hope to see you out on the local trails.
Ah the adventures (perils?) of a vintage restoration! This is just like my neighbor who is restoring a 1950s Chevy pickup. (we seem to be the mecca of vintage car restorations up here in La Crescenta) Every day is a new adventure in finding the most bizarre, rusted out, gunked up component buried in the back of the engine bay or up underneath the truck. Its always something that you'll never find a replacement for... so its expensive custom fabrication or restoration. It takes 20 years to finish the project and ends up costing way more than the vehicle is worth. But its done for the love of the vehicle and the joy of the process! Enjoy the ride, Brad. One day this will be your favorite Jeep! :)
I had a 77 Chef Cherokee. back in 90 to 99 totally awesome I miss her so bad. I now own a 97 Cherokee with a lot more plastic but it does have a few more creature comforts. I love them both and will probably stay with the Cherokee line till I die.
We love the video Brad. Lots of fun. I enjoy doing that too. Fuel injection helps. Holley fuel injection sniper kit. Can't wait to see you on the trail
Loving this project, I've been resto-modding an 85 4runner for the last 3 years. Currently running OME leafs but had to use an add a leaf on the front and the back isnt quite sitting where I want it. Some custom deaver packs are on my wish list. Everything on old trucks takes 3 times longer than expected lol.
Great video! Like see detail about your vintage Jeep…even the issues. I have a 1969 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ55 so I know there is always something. Keep making the videos on this awesome truck. Can’t wait to see the big tires on it!
Your charging problem is likely the external voltage regulator--usually found on the interior of the passenger front wheel arch. They have a limited lifespan--I am on my third in 40 years with my '74 J-20. Symptoms were the same--including around 18v at times (not good!). On a 'systems' note, the whole Jeep is indeed made of easily replaceable parts. However it was made as a system, and messing with the system causes unintended consequences. Lift kits cause bump steer, hard ride (unless you do a spring-over-axle), driveline fit and vibration, U-joint wear, increased fuel consumption (more aerodynamic drag), worse cooling (less under-hood suction due to the front axle now in full airflow on the highway), etc. 40 years with one of these rigs teaches that caution is often the better part of valor. But good luck--nice sounding rig too!
I fought a charging problem for a bit on my FSJ Cherokee. The stock resistor wire that told the alternator to charge was old and brittle. It would sometimes complete the circuit, other times not so much. Once I fixed that it worked great every time.
Jerry is the man, definitely need to have him on the channel more often. Really enjoyed seeing some wrenching done on the Cherokee, we need some more content on this beauty! Keep em rolling in!
I think everyone should be trained on how to replace an alternator in school. I've had to replace it in a number of my own vehicles and it really is a straight forward process that most people can do themselves. The Jeep is looking good Brad, looking forward to see how it comes along 😁
It feels real good when you know what you doing and everything comes together sometime it doesn't happen when you wanted but eventually you put it together , great video 👍
It won’t get much softer. It’s a leaf suspension. More meat via tire, air down, and some really good shocks to rebound the leaves, can make it much better. Linking up and going coils is the best way, but they probably don’t have anything for that and you’d have to go custom $$$$$$$$$$. You should be good with meat and shocks, as well as airing down. At the end of the day, it’s a 50 year old truck. We tend to get snobby these days with out soft rides. I Drive my lifted 2000 F350 off road. Air down the 37s, and it’s not to bad. I just have to get my fillings replaced every year
I’ve done this on the ground with my 79 Ramcharger. But that was 8 yrs ago. Engine/trans/T-case swap in 08-09, had a buddy’s lift for that. I just turned 50, a lift is in my future for sure. I’m rewiring it now
Just a note on that block of wood trick you're supposed to put the shackle on it spin first and then as you line up the leaf spring you stretch it using the block of wood and then all you have to do is roll the shackle up and put the bolt in.
Your Cherokee looks great with the lift and stockish tires. I love an old school truck that sits high but doesn't necessarily have monster tires. I'd hate for you to cut the fenders but have fun and do what you want to do. It'll look good with the new tires too. When you tear apart the interior you should put in spray insulation and regular insulation on top to make it quieter.
I know it would involve some extra work… But a Popular Mod (did it on my CJ7) is to do a Reverse Shackle… It would help with your ride, and you can then address that Shackle Angle on the Front 🤔 👍
When I put a 4 inch BDS on my LS Wagoneer it vibrated terribly. I dropped the cross member to lower the T Case and fixed the problem. That may work for you as well. I’m running a NP241c so switching to a SYE is also on the to do list and at that point I could push everything back up. But that is probably not an option for you. Not sure which Tcase you’re running. Good luck. Careful FSJ’s have a way of multiplying. 😂
When I did suspension work for a living, I generally started the shackles first and the spring eyes last. That usually worked better. The springs will soften up and settle down a little bit in around 500-1000 miles of daily driving.
15:12 I live in Canada, if we ran our shocks with bare shafts like that they would be pitted and rusted after one winter, we would need to put shock boots on our shocks here.
Great video altho I did like the stock look can't wait to see the end project and yes you were smart to take that one into the shop dodged a bullet there🙂
Where in the world did you ever find a 74 Jeep Cherokee, they had a reputation in the rust belt to rust away in no more than 6-8 years here in Northern Ohio. Buddy got his father's J10, just before I retired from the Navy in 93. It didn't get that many highway miles on it, it was a cared-for farm truck, and yes they do exist. We sat about restoring it, ended up doing a full frame off. Can say it was well built, but a real rust bucket. Got real good at frame rust repairs and sandblasting.
Hi TrailRecon-----I did not read the other comments but you can almost put money on it that the bouncy ride is all due to vertical shackles......been there done it. The angle needs to be about 30 to 45 degrees from the vertical. Now how you do that is the question. A combination of a longer shackle coupled with the mount that needs to be moved an inch or so inwards would fix you up . 1 mod leads to 2 more. :)
I had a 1982 Wagoneer, but sold it in the late 90s, not a spot of rust, 50K miles, beautiful, was dad in laws, and he babied it, oil changed every 2500 miles, cleaned, all fluids changed meticulously.
Brad, I have a 72 J truck and fought a random no charge problem for a long time, two alternators, key switch, tore into the wiring harness and finally chased the alternators field exciter wire to a thermistor switch mounted to the grille by the Left Front headlight. On a cool morning or cold day it may or may not charge, I could pinch that thermistor switch between my thumb and index finger and in seconds it would close and start charging. The truck was equipped with an electric choke from the factory so possibly it was to delay the heating of the choke? On cold days I can't see how it would EVER warm up where it was mounted! Couldn't find any information about this in Jeep manuals or online so I just bypassed the thermistor and the Charging and Choke system work fine now!
Love seeing the old stuff get more life. I hope you got the guys the proper flag for their uniform. I suppose it's the Vet in me noticing something like that.
Get rid of the FoMoCo alternator, I did on my '72 wagoneer a great swap. Also, those things are really bad about having loose grounds in places. They use chassis grounds instead of a ground wire. Further, get locking hubs. This will help your fuel mileage and a bunch of front drive line vibes. Have fun.
Notice both driveshafts offset to the passenger side, which means you have the full time transfer case. Either shaft could be the cause of the vibration. Love the stance!
I really have enjoyed watching your videos. Seeing your Jeep come to life is a fun adventure I feel I get to share with you. Look forward your next update.
Just a heads up, Those shims in the rear spring packs can throw off your pinion angle and cause vibration. I have had different jeeps with various lifts and have never needed any shims to correct the angles. I would suggest removing those shims and driving it to see if the vibration goes away. Also look into swapping to the newer 78+ style 10si alternator and do away with the external regulated one
I love the new raised look - and those rims are fantastic looking!!!! I love that style. Want to find something like those form my 2011 Dodge Ram 2500.
With all the electrical gremlins that you have found, have you considered doing a new harness? Like something from Painless? I know that rewiring an entire vehicle is no small task, but it actually saved me a ton of time on my old vehicle that had similar electrical problems. I found so many problems in my old harness after I fully removed it that would have been a complete nightmare to track down individually.
I'd be worried that the spring hangers will flip back if you flex out the suspension. You could always try less-strong springs and then use blocks to raise it up making up for any springs you have removed. Looks good, though. Hopefully there aren't too many gremlins to chase down. I still think I'd look for a disk brake conversion kit for the rear.
Look into shackle swap for the front. It should soften the ride, fix the shackle angle and replace the post mount. Did wonders on my old j4000 and 90 f250
When the mechanic was talking about the brakes being “Amazing” he sounded like Marco talking about trail rides and food. Looks good Brad. A time machine.
Using that block of wood is a nice hack I don't think I would have thought about it even though watching it made me remember having seen it done before. Also that shows you how much the springs are going to settle.
I'm on the lookout for a Cherokee Chief. It has some different fender clearances in the back I'm fond of. Same front basically though. If I get one, we are going wheeling Brad!
Done various things to get leaf springs to fit, but in my opinion, the kit should have had extended shackles in it, as that helps stop the shackle going over the centre of it's capable arc, if that happens the shackle will sit above the pivot and you drop about 3-4". There is a known issue with Suzuki Jimni and Vitaras if lifted with original shackles, also some Anti-roll bars too for instance Land Rover Discovery 1, Range Rover Classics and Defenders will over-centre the rear ARB links if the bar is in the standard position and the vehicle is lifted. A tip in fitting leaf springs that are not quite the right length until weighted and settled is to fit the shackle to the body, then fit the spring so when you stretch the spring by the block it all lines up and you just align the shackle and slot in the bolt! Saves beating up the brand new spring with hammers, as that just removes the protective coatings on the springs. Virations present after the lift is quite common, the UJ's are used to running in one arc and aren't any more, so a refresh and see if it's still there. Might be worth buying new and then revamping the old as a spare?
I think you will find that the the alternator isn't the issue. Its the Motorola voltage regulator on the passenger side fender. These alternators were externally regulated. The rear springs are way easier to put on if you bolt the shackle to the post, and then just rotate it up to the spring once you have the spring pre-compressed.
I lifted my 83 waggy 3 1/2 inches with a spring lift. It was stiff in the front, not bad but it was worse in the rear. I think next time I'll try stock springs with a axle over up front and flipped shackle rear.
Enjoy your videos! As you replace your charging system check all your ground connections. Old trucks have grounding gremlins. Hope to see you on the trail some day👍
😉My wife recently asked me " You were a mechanic when we first got married, why did you stop doing your own maintenance on our trucks?" My reply? " I think after 46 years of "DYI" I can feel just as much pride and satisfaction I can afford to pay the young fella's/gals to do it. Great video as usual Brad
Well said! Thank you!
I'm not a mechanic, but I fixed my vehicles out of necessity. . Now. I'm like nope ill pay to get most of it done . Except for things that I think will be fun.
When I was a mechanic there were no computers controlling everything and almost everything was analog, you had room in an engine compartment to access everything easily so yeah it's not worth my aggravation, I'll pay someone else.
@@michaeldurling793 I'm definitely not a mechanic, and I usually end up not having a needed part or tool when I encounter the unexpected (like the top nut on my drag link being seized and not coming off). It's my only vehicle so I can't just run to the store to get a new part when R&R'ing something 😕 so taking it to a quality mechanic is priceless...
Heh. Did all our vehicle repair work for 30 years before I sat down with a pad and calculated that it was more expensive between parts costs and lost wages to do my own work than to buy a new vehicle and just pay attention to periodic maintenance. With that my wife said "OK."
Watched this vid again. I just visited Jerry and Edgar at Shift Autowerx yesterday and they gave my JL the twice over. All was well and got some needed rear diff maintenance done. Very friendly, helpful and quick turn around on my Jeep. Added bonus was that Prickly Pear was in the shop and in a bay when I got there and then parked out front of the shop when I picked up my JL. Fun to see it up close. Thanks for the recommendation of my new Jeep mechanic. By the way, also bought a T shirt and will do some advertising for Shift!
Brad, your level of patience and optimism is truly something special and inspiring. The "feel good" your videos leave me is something i really appreciate and look forward to. Thank you for another great video!
Those front springs are not long enough, and with the shackle at the front, the first time you drop a tire into a deep hole and it rebounds up, you will lock that shackle behind the spring perch again. Peterson's 4wheel and offroad has covered this issue with lots of jeeps. Generally you want your shackle angle to be 30-45 degrees pointing forwards, yours looks to be close to 90. A shackle reverse will help, but you'll prob find better ride quality if you go back to your old springs and put the springs over the axle rather than under. You will achieve the same 4" of lift, but better ride. It is not a bolt in swap. It will require welding new spring pads to the axle, but you can correct pinion angle better when you do this. There are cross over steering kits aplenty for that dana 44 front end, and that will get rid of the bump steer and move your tie rod above the leaf springs to prevent damage. If you don't change those shackle bushings soon, you will learn about the death wobble. It is a really beautiful old jeep.
It also might be easier just to get a complete universal wiring harness with newer style blade fuses rather than trying to chase down electrical gremlins. Corroded grounds or connectors, dissimilar metals corroding, rodents having chewed wires, or just plain deteriorating insulation on wires causing cracks and water intrusion. In the long run, it will be so much less head ache.
I really like that you are taking on this project. I cannot get over how pretty and how nice of condition that jeep is in.
Oh the memories of the jeeps of the 70’s. They were so easy to work on but I’d never trade down from my modern vehicles. The reliability is so improved today.
Welcome again to FSJ World! When I did my lift on the Chief I had to cut out every single attachment bolt, so consider yourself lucky there. I also had to take a 4x4 post and ratchet straps to flatten out my springs to get them to lengthen enough to install. A scary feat for sure. You may want to get used to the bumpiness. It will smooth out some with flex, but with that much arch, it’s going to be a little bouncy. I also choose to bypass my ammeter in the dash and run all new power and ground cables. At the same time I did a couple breakers (one for the cab power, one for the alternator). Bumped up to a much higher amp one wire alternator. Much safer, with greater charging and amp allowance. Might consider the bypass at the least.
Car that old, changing the brake booster & master cylinder and flex brake lines is a lifesaver.
Depending on the age, I'd also change the following items.
Water pump.
Fuel pump.
Radiator.
Trans cooling lines.
Brake lines.
Alternator.
All hoses and belts.
New grounding straps.
Battery cables.
Open, inspect, & change rear end lube.
Starter motor.
Ignition key tumbler-switch.
Inspect exhaust as needed.
Heater core.
Heater blower motor.
U-joints
Shackle angle certainly has something to do with the rough ride also. I predict some inverted shackles the first time it flexes out.
Did Gerry say MAPLE SYRUP!!! At 78 I'm more than happy to pay a mechanic. As a carpenter in my early years, necessity by low income DIY. Here in Ore, when 18 deg, I'm like, GEE IM GLAD IM RETIRED! Remembering others have to make a living also. Today going to VA Cli ic in Eugene then out 🏕 yay! Have a diesel heater to keep me warm after hiking. Doing thi gs couldn't do younger. Also, Army Vet, France 🇫🇷 and Nam. IM PROUD TO BE AN AMERICAN, GOD BLESS THE USA! And thank you for your service, Brad. My rig, had 98 k1500 Silverado, upgraded to 2015 k1500.....trying out this week! Yay!
The old girl is getting a lot of love!! Well done Brad!
loving your PPP.... she looks amazing and once up and running with the tlc still needed your smile will be bigger than the grand canyon. I am not really into jeeps over here in England but PPP is the history and class that shouldnt be forgotten. I got a few small jobs done on my old Pajero 4x4.. i still want to add taller stiffer springs and then new brake lines as it already has a 2 inch body lift i did last year. I want to get her out soon and spend a night or 2 in a tent along side her.
I’m sure you realize this already but you really need to move the shackle mounts inboard if you plan to off-road that thing. As soon as you flex it up those shackles will pop back up. They need to be angled inward from end of spring to center of the spring.
Loving this project man! Keep it up!
When all else fails; read the instructions. I purchased a "Chiltons" for all my vehicles (but really appreciated not having to use it). Real frustration comes from working on a creeper under a vehicle in MN when it's well below zero. That lift is perfect. Although it will look better with 33's.
Shackle angle has a huge effect on how your rig will ride. From what I can tell from the video is that the springs you purchased were stock length then rearched to provide the desired lift, but made them too short in the process. This made your shackles run an inline angle which does not allow for much movement. This was demonstrated by needing to pry the front shackles to get them to fit. If the springs were the right length the shackles would have been almost perfectly vertical with little weight on the springs and at about 30 degrees with the weight of the vehicle on them. This allows for the spring to flex. The solution is to either reorder longer springs or relocate the shackle mounts in order to get a better shackle angle. I would recommend getting some Alcan Springs made. Pricy but the best!
The leaf pings will settle down with miles/time. Give the old gal a few months/miles she'll come around and settle down. When I was younger and in college, we would take a second set of leaf springs for whatever car we had, and would cut off the ends of each leaf, then stuff the cut off leafs in between the existing leafs. It made a huge difference in stance and ride, as you see on your rig. It was (and is) an affordable lift when you're in college and money is scarce! lol Looking forward to future videos!
Doing a shackle reversal on the front as well as slightly longer rear shackles will improve the ride quality greatly. We ran into a similar issue lifting an old IH Scout. Thanks for the awesome content and hard work you put into sharing your adventures with us!
Great video! Love the build. Let the leaf springs settle. Then point rear pinion 2-3 degrees (using shims) lower than it pointing directly at the transfer case, and use a double cardan driveshaft. This is due to pinion rotating upward, on load, for a leaf spring vehicle. And I agree with others that the front shackle angle looks way off. It should be 20-40 degrees forward depending on on-road, or off-road ride. Might consider shackle reversal, but either way might need to move spring perch in order to get optimal ride quality.
Prickly Pear is my favorite of your vehicles. So cool!
Different shocks aren't going to help with the ride. Your shackle angles are too vertical. That is causing the bouncy rough ride, because the shackle bushings are taking all the hits from the road instead of letting the springs and shocks to their job. Your lift springs are technically too short. This is common when companies do lift springs. They start with a factory spring length and add deeper arches which shortens the springs. You need custom springs built to allow for proper shackle angle. Because of this, your shackles can easily invert and pin themselves against the frame under full articulation and it is sketchy fixing that on the trail!
Atlas Suspension is where I get my leafsprings. Call and ask for Fernando. Send him this video and photos of your shackle angle, and explain to him what you are trying to achieve. His shop is in City of Industry, so just up the freeway from you. He will install them too if you want.
You can buy a vehicle or build the vehicle you want from scratch. I like building the vehicle you want, even though it does come with challenges. Looks like you have a fun build going there, look forward to seeing how it comes along.
Jason
Would love to see some more info from Jerry on the channel. He needs to be invited out on an overlanding trip. He can periodically give Jeep mechanic tips along the journey. Thanks Brad for the great content!!!
I've been looking forward to this build for what seems like an eternity. But It was worth the wait. Cheers to the guys over at Shift Autowerks.
I grew up in a 76 that looked identical to yours. A lot of wild memories/adventures in that thing.
Is that plumbing hardware I see at 3:28? :) Does my heart good to see a new brake master cylinder and booster going in. I sometimes have new parts that I'm planning to install and they end up sitting on the shelf for a long time. So glad you took yours out of the box! Stay safe Brad!
Yep, I think it's a check valve or something from the hardware store. I've got a new gas tank and hoses on the long to do lost. Thanks!
Boosters get weak over the years. If you have a rig from the 70s 80s 0r 90 and haven't replaced the break vac booster its a must. You will be amazed at how fast you can stop with a new one
Man, this episode was freaking awesome. No off roading but still great. Thank you brotha.
Years ago when I needed my Cherokee lifted to accommodate taller narrow tires, they merely added single leaf's on each set giving me appx. 2.5 inches of lift.
I didn't experience the handling and other issues associated with higher lift's. My steering radius change was microscopic and overall I was pleased with the project.
That is a fantastic new stance Brad. Most definitely took it from the station wagon feel to an offroad rig. Prickly Pear is looking good. Hope you get the rest sorted out to actually take it offroad soon.
Love the old vehicle content, keep it coming! Currently lifting a K5 Blazer and battling similar 'old' vehicle issues. Recommend everything you can reasonably replace - do it when opportunity presents itself, i.e., shackles, bushings, etc. And...4" is a fairly high lift - keep the tire size moderate or new problems will surface. GOOD LUCK!!!
Another great video!!!!!!! Nice to have professional help close by..... Looking Fantastic.
Thank you and I am very thankful for their help!
HI BRAD 👋
LOVE THIS ! MY NEPHEW IS / DID RAISE MY 1999 FORD F150 XLT 4.6L EXTENDED CAB 4X4 FOR NEVER THOUGHT OF DOING IT WHEN TASTY WAS NEWER / ? / NEW 3 " TORSION KEYS FOR THE FRONT & 5" BLOCKS IN THE REAR AXLES . TASTY HAS ALMOST 300,000.0 MILES ON HER . WHEN YOU SAID STIFF I HAD TO LAUGH / YOU DEFINITELY DON'T KNOW HOW BUMPY THE ROADS ARE UNTIL YOU GET THIS DONE TO YOUR VEHICLE , POT HOLES LETS NOT GO THERE ! / WITH THE 5 " LIFT I GOTTEN 295 18R 70 NITTO RIDGE GRABBERS LT TIRES & NEW RIMS , TASTY CAME WITH 17 " RIMS , SHE LOOKS AWESOME . MY 94 YEAR OLD MOM NEEDS A STEP LADDER TO GET IN & OUT NOW . BIG DIFFERENCE . WE GOTTEN NEW BILSTIEN EXTENDED SHOCKS 4" / 6" PLAY . TOOK HER ACROSS THE STREET TO CHECK OUT IF THE TIRES HIT ANYTHING . WHEN WE DRONE SLOWLY AROUND THE CHURCH PARKING LOT WE HEARD A POP THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BRACKET PASSENGER SIDE BROKE 🤔 WAS ONLY ON BY A THREAD .SO ORDERED NEW ONES . FOUND OUT HOW STIFFFFFFF SHE WAS ON THE WAY HOME FROM ANNAPOLIS . GOD WHAT A DIFFERENCE ! YES FRONTEND BOUNCE , AMEN TO 🙏 THAT . DON'T KNOW IF THERE ARE MADE DIFFERENT UPPER CONTROL ARMS TO HELP WITH THE HITTING THE METAL BUMP STOPS IN THE FRONT FRAME 🤔 MIGHT HAVE TO CUT THE BUMP STOPS 🤔 & REBUILD THEM ON AN ANGLE ? TO GIVE MORE ROOM ? THE COVERS TO THE FRONT AXLES TORE FROM THE DIFFERENT ANGLE SO TASTY IS SETTING IN THE DRIVEWAY UNTIL MY NEPHEW CAN PUT THE NEW AXLES ON HER WITH THE NEW CONTROL ARMS, CALIBERS FOR THE FRONT BRAKES TOO . BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T GO AS PLANNED ! SO WE LEARN AS WE GO , SAVE UP MORE MONEY AS WE GO , HOPEFULLY TURNS OUT AS MOVE AHEAD ? THANK YOU 🙏 GOD BLESS YOU ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏
These old keeps look good with a couple inches of rake. 1or 2 extra inches of lift can be achieved in the rear with longer shackles or lift blocks.
High arch lift springs for "Spring under axle" tend to be a little rougher. There are some tricks you can do to help. Alot of us YJ guys run the spring and shackle bolts much looser than the factory torque spec, and use nylock nuts to keep them from coming off. (40 ft lbs instead of 90)
The angle of your shackles is nearly vertical,(which makes for a rougher ride) ideally getting it closer to a 45* angle makes a huge difference but its easier said than done. Hopefully you can look into those things and get some ideas. Alot of the same tricks YJ guys use should cross over to FSJ. I would consider some longer shackles as well which will add a little more height also but reach easier too. Hope that helps! -Dan
Awesome video these classic Jeep videos are some of my favorite
I truly bet you were glad that you kept those new leaf spring mounting instructions!!!!
I was 🤣🤣🤣
Looks fantastic Brad! 100% better! Cant wait to see camping trips in the old girl!
Thanks! It will be a bit longer than expected before I'm camping in it, but we are heading in the right direction.
This reminds me of working on my first motorcycle a 1974 CB360. One thing always led to another. It was so rewarding to work on and the local Honda dealers mechanics would teach me in exchange for some shop cleanup time. I don’t think too many guys of my generation have set mechanical ignition or synchronized carburetors. I’ll be going to see the guys at Shift once I decided to lift and fit 37s on the Bronco but not until some more tested solutions are available and it’s been relieved of daily driver duties.
I'll bet that bike was a beauty! Shift will take good care of you!
Good job Brad keeping old girl going. Thank you for the video too Don from Hope Idaho
Just love watching your videos/ content and experiences with everything you do...
One of the best off road channels on you tube.
Thank you so much!
Oh yeah.... Great job Devin!!!!
Having done some spring swaps on the garage floor, I can appreciate your decision to have a shop do it.
Great vid Brad. Need to get my wife's TJ into Shift and have some work done. Enjoying the Prickly Pear project and hope to see you out on the local trails.
Ah the adventures (perils?) of a vintage restoration! This is just like my neighbor who is restoring a 1950s Chevy pickup. (we seem to be the mecca of vintage car restorations up here in La Crescenta) Every day is a new adventure in finding the most bizarre, rusted out, gunked up component buried in the back of the engine bay or up underneath the truck. Its always something that you'll never find a replacement for... so its expensive custom fabrication or restoration. It takes 20 years to finish the project and ends up costing way more than the vehicle is worth.
But its done for the love of the vehicle and the joy of the process!
Enjoy the ride, Brad. One day this will be your favorite Jeep! :)
I had a 77 Chef Cherokee. back in 90 to 99 totally awesome I miss her so bad. I now own a 97 Cherokee with a lot more plastic but it does have a few more creature comforts. I love them both and will probably stay with the Cherokee line till I die.
We love the video Brad. Lots of fun. I enjoy doing that too. Fuel injection helps. Holley fuel injection sniper kit.
Can't wait to see you on the trail
Don't forget to replace your brake proportioning valve. Thanks for the great vids.
Loving this project, I've been resto-modding an 85 4runner for the last 3 years. Currently running OME leafs but had to use an add a leaf on the front and the back isnt quite sitting where I want it. Some custom deaver packs are on my wish list. Everything on old trucks takes 3 times longer than expected lol.
Great video! Like see detail about your vintage Jeep…even the issues. I have a 1969 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ55 so I know there is always something. Keep making the videos on this awesome truck. Can’t wait to see the big tires on it!
Jerry is the man, great work doing all that in one day!
👍
Your charging problem is likely the external voltage regulator--usually found on the interior of the passenger front wheel arch. They have a limited lifespan--I am on my third in 40 years with my '74 J-20. Symptoms were the same--including around 18v at times (not good!).
On a 'systems' note, the whole Jeep is indeed made of easily replaceable parts. However it was made as a system, and messing with the system causes unintended consequences. Lift kits cause bump steer, hard ride (unless you do a spring-over-axle), driveline fit and vibration, U-joint wear, increased fuel consumption (more aerodynamic drag), worse cooling (less under-hood suction due to the front axle now in full airflow on the highway), etc. 40 years with one of these rigs teaches that caution is often the better part of valor. But good luck--nice sounding rig too!
I fought a charging problem for a bit on my FSJ Cherokee. The stock resistor wire that told the alternator to charge was old and brittle. It would sometimes complete the circuit, other times not so much. Once I fixed that it worked great every time.
Jerry is the man, definitely need to have him on the channel more often. Really enjoyed seeing some wrenching done on the Cherokee, we need some more content on this beauty! Keep em rolling in!
I think everyone should be trained on how to replace an alternator in school. I've had to replace it in a number of my own vehicles and it really is a straight forward process that most people can do themselves.
The Jeep is looking good Brad, looking forward to see how it comes along 😁
It feels real good when you know what you doing and everything comes together sometime it doesn't happen when you wanted but eventually you put it together , great video 👍
It won’t get much softer. It’s a leaf suspension. More meat via tire, air down, and some really good shocks to rebound the leaves, can make it much better. Linking up and going coils is the best way, but they probably don’t have anything for that and you’d have to go custom $$$$$$$$$$. You should be good with meat and shocks, as well as airing down. At the end of the day, it’s a 50 year old truck. We tend to get snobby these days with out soft rides. I Drive my lifted 2000 F350 off road. Air down the 37s, and it’s not to bad. I just have to get my fillings replaced every year
Great look, used that wood trick back in the 80’s, seen that problem with the brake fluid once before; here’s to the future ⭐️😎🤩
We were thankful for how easy that block of wood did the job! Thanks!
I'm doing a similar build on a 97 ZJ. I've owned 3 Wagoneers, and while I do miss them, I am happy to be working with coil springs.
Hello Mr, dat Jeep starting to look wicked!!!
Oh yeah!
I’ve done this on the ground with my 79 Ramcharger. But that was 8 yrs ago. Engine/trans/T-case swap in 08-09, had a buddy’s lift for that. I just turned 50, a lift is in my future for sure.
I’m rewiring it now
Just a note on that block of wood trick you're supposed to put the shackle on it spin first and then as you line up the leaf spring you stretch it using the block of wood and then all you have to do is roll the shackle up and put the bolt in.
Your Cherokee looks great with the lift and stockish tires. I love an old school truck that sits high but doesn't necessarily have monster tires. I'd hate for you to cut the fenders but have fun and do what you want to do. It'll look good with the new tires too. When you tear apart the interior you should put in spray insulation and regular insulation on top to make it quieter.
I know it would involve some extra work… But a Popular Mod (did it on my CJ7) is to do a Reverse Shackle… It would help with your ride, and you can then address that Shackle Angle on the Front 🤔 👍
It looks awesome man! Can’t wait to see it with larger sized tires, it will then be perfect!
When I put a 4 inch BDS on my LS Wagoneer it vibrated terribly. I dropped the cross member to lower the T Case and fixed the problem. That may work for you as well. I’m running a NP241c so switching to a SYE is also on the to do list and at that point I could push everything back up. But that is probably not an option for you. Not sure which Tcase you’re running. Good luck. Careful FSJ’s have a way of multiplying. 😂
When I did suspension work for a living, I generally started the shackles first and the spring eyes last. That usually worked better.
The springs will soften up and settle down a little bit in around 500-1000 miles of daily driving.
15:12 I live in Canada, if we ran our shocks with bare shafts like that they would be pitted and rusted after one winter, we would need to put shock boots on our shocks here.
Looks AMAZING! Love the white letters on machined face wheels!
Had one of those back in the day. 4 inch lift.... New England salted roads killed the frame. Also, Semper Fi! Marine myself, active 82-88.
Looks great Brad and brought back vivid memories of the brake and suspension upgrades on my ‘68 Firebird
Great video altho I did like the stock look can't wait to see the end project and yes you were smart to take that one into the shop dodged a bullet there🙂
Where in the world did you ever find a 74 Jeep Cherokee, they had a reputation in the rust belt to rust away in no more than 6-8 years here in Northern Ohio. Buddy got his father's J10, just before I retired from the Navy in 93. It didn't get that many highway miles on it, it was a cared-for farm truck, and yes they do exist. We sat about restoring it, ended up doing a full frame off. Can say it was well built, but a real rust bucket. Got real good at frame rust repairs and sandblasting.
Hi TrailRecon-----I did not read the other comments but you can almost put money on it that the bouncy ride is all due to vertical shackles......been there done it. The angle needs to be about 30 to 45 degrees from the vertical. Now how you do that is the question. A combination of a longer shackle coupled with the mount that needs to be moved an inch or so inwards would fix you up . 1 mod leads to 2 more. :)
I had a 1982 Wagoneer, but sold it in the late 90s, not a spot of rust, 50K miles, beautiful, was dad in laws, and he babied it, oil changed every 2500 miles, cleaned, all fluids changed meticulously.
Brad, I have a 72 J truck and fought a random no charge problem for a long time, two alternators, key switch, tore into the wiring harness and finally chased the alternators field exciter wire to a thermistor switch mounted to the grille by the Left Front headlight. On a cool morning or cold day it may or may not charge, I could pinch that thermistor switch between my thumb and index finger and in seconds it would close and start charging. The truck was equipped with an electric choke from the factory so possibly it was to delay the heating of the choke? On cold days I can't see how it would EVER warm up where it was mounted! Couldn't find any information about this in Jeep manuals or online so I just bypassed the thermistor and the Charging and Choke system work fine now!
Loving that classic look !!! You’ll be in the dirt soon!
Love seeing the old stuff get more life. I hope you got the guys the proper flag for their uniform. I suppose it's the Vet in me noticing something like that.
Good call on having Shift do the install.
Oh ya, for the sake of my back and what would have been some stress it was absolutely worth having those guys take care of it!
Get rid of the FoMoCo alternator, I did on my '72 wagoneer a great swap.
Also, those things are really bad about having loose grounds in places. They use chassis grounds instead of a ground wire.
Further, get locking hubs. This will help your fuel mileage and a bunch of front drive line vibes.
Have fun.
Notice both driveshafts offset to the passenger side, which means you have the full time transfer case. Either shaft could be the cause of the vibration. Love the stance!
I had a 77 Chief with a 3speed and Dana 20. The axles where set up the same way both offset to the right.
I think the crappy weld job on the one shaft is the main culprit. It looks like it was welded on the trail as an emergency
I really have enjoyed watching your videos. Seeing your Jeep come to life is a fun adventure I feel I get to share with you. Look forward your next update.
Just a heads up, Those shims in the rear spring packs can throw off your pinion angle and cause vibration. I have had different jeeps with various lifts and have never needed any shims to correct the angles. I would suggest removing those shims and driving it to see if the vibration goes away. Also look into swapping to the newer 78+ style 10si alternator and do away with the external regulated one
The taller stance looks good! You're almost there with it.
I love the new raised look - and those rims are fantastic looking!!!! I love that style. Want to find something like those form my 2011 Dodge Ram 2500.
Looks great even with those tires
It looks fantastic.
The Jeeps looks great!
With all the electrical gremlins that you have found, have you considered doing a new harness? Like something from Painless? I know that rewiring an entire vehicle is no small task, but it actually saved me a ton of time on my old vehicle that had similar electrical problems. I found so many problems in my old harness after I fully removed it that would have been a complete nightmare to track down individually.
Starting the day just right! Truck is looking awesome. Cheers Chief!
Right on!
I'd be worried that the spring hangers will flip back if you flex out the suspension.
You could always try less-strong springs and then use blocks to raise it up making up for any springs you have removed.
Looks good, though. Hopefully there aren't too many gremlins to chase down. I still think I'd look for a disk brake conversion kit for the rear.
Love that jeep it's beautiful you get it set up and it will be perfect
As unique as that spring install was you should’ve installed the bushings and been done with it! Cool transformation.
Look into shackle swap for the front. It should soften the ride, fix the shackle angle and replace the post mount. Did wonders on my old j4000 and 90 f250
When the mechanic was talking about the brakes being “Amazing” he sounded like Marco talking about trail rides and food. Looks good Brad. A time machine.
LOL! Now I'm hungry!
so true! i caught that too! haha
I am feeling that desire for a lift in the shop. The rig looks great lifted.
Using that block of wood is a nice hack I don't think I would have thought about it even though watching it made me remember having seen it done before. Also that shows you how much the springs are going to settle.
I'm on the lookout for a Cherokee Chief. It has some different fender clearances in the back I'm fond of. Same front basically though. If I get one, we are going wheeling Brad!
Done various things to get leaf springs to fit, but in my opinion, the kit should have had extended shackles in it, as that helps stop the shackle going over the centre of it's capable arc, if that happens the shackle will sit above the pivot and you drop about 3-4". There is a known issue with Suzuki Jimni and Vitaras if lifted with original shackles, also some Anti-roll bars too for instance Land Rover Discovery 1, Range Rover Classics and Defenders will over-centre the rear ARB links if the bar is in the standard position and the vehicle is lifted.
A tip in fitting leaf springs that are not quite the right length until weighted and settled is to fit the shackle to the body, then fit the spring so when you stretch the spring by the block it all lines up and you just align the shackle and slot in the bolt! Saves beating up the brand new spring with hammers, as that just removes the protective coatings on the springs.
Virations present after the lift is quite common, the UJ's are used to running in one arc and aren't any more, so a refresh and see if it's still there. Might be worth buying new and then revamping the old as a spare?
I think you will find that the the alternator isn't the issue. Its the Motorola voltage regulator on the passenger side fender. These alternators were externally regulated. The rear springs are way easier to put on if you bolt the shackle to the post, and then just rotate it up to the spring once you have the spring pre-compressed.
I lifted my 83 waggy 3 1/2 inches with a spring lift. It was stiff in the front, not bad but it was worse in the rear. I think next time I'll try stock springs with a axle over up front and flipped shackle rear.
Love those wheels. Great choice.
Enjoy your videos! As you replace your charging system check all your ground connections. Old trucks have grounding gremlins. Hope to see you on the trail some day👍
Thanks! I'll be chasing a bunch of grounds, there are a few gremlins crawling around.