DARK ACADEMIA Sewing Patterns for a PLUS-SIZE Capsule Wardrobe | SIZE INCLUSIVE
Вставка
- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- Dark Academia Capsule Wardrobe but lets make it PLUS SIZE!
Lovelies, it's time for another size inclusive capsule wardrobe and this time I'm taking inspiration from both dark academia and light academia.
If you have enjoyed this video and would like me to try another aesthetic or core capsule sewing pattern collection, leave your suggestions in the comments!
As with my previous capsule collection video, all patterns featured must have a minimum hip circumference of 55". If you want to see my previous capsule wardrobe I have a collection of free plus size patterns in the below video:
You can also find me and the stuff I make on my website
www.amyofmelbourne.com
or on Instagram amyofmelbourne
All of the patterns I have suggested in this video are linked below.
Friday Pattern Company - Heather Blazer
fridaypatternc...
Helen's closet - Dawson Skivvy
helensclosetpa...
Muna and broad - Tarawi Shirt
www.munaandbro...
Cashmerette - Harrison Button Down Shirt
www.cashmerett...
Fibre and Cloth Studio - Iris Blouse
fibrandclothst...
By Hand London - Rumana Coat
byhandlondon.c...
Gunner Deatherage - Hemlock Coat and Cape
gunnardeathera...
Sew Liberated - Studio Tunic
sewliberated.c...
Elbe Textiles - Steele Pinafore and Page Dress
elbetextiles.c...
In the Fold - Barkly Skirt
shop.inthefold...
Ellie and Mac - Pleated Skirt
www.ellieandma...
Goldfinch - Jones Trousers
goldfinch.limi...
Seamwork - Ani Trousers
www.seamwork.c...
Cashmerette - Meriam Trousers
www.cashmerett...
Megan Nielson - Flint Pants
megannielsen.c...
House of Bricks Designs - Marie Vest
www.etsy.com/a...
Pattern Scout - Birch Vest
patternscoutst...
Waves and Wild - Salt Air Cardigan
www.wavesandwi...
Cable knit sweater knitting pattern
www.ravelry.co...
Crochet V neck vest
www.yarnspirat...
Honourable Mention
www.ellieandma...
For anybody who wants to make their own pleated skirt who is plus size or especially with a big waist to hip ratio, here's what I've found:
Most at home tutorials simply use 1-2 rectangles of fabric as long as you want the skirt waist-hem, and then about three times as wide as your waist to pleat down to size. There are a several problems with this if you have a big butt/wide hips.
1. Your skirt will be too short in the back if it's the right length in the front, because this method does not account for the extra length needed to drape over drastic curves, sides and back.
2. Your pleats will always be pulled apart quite drastically at the hem, because once your pleats are ironed down, you essentially have a pleated fabric only as wide as your waist, and they will only hang straight down if your butt is the width of your waist.
Of course some pleat flare is desirable, but if you want crisp, vertical lines, you need the fix which can be used for both of these problems. And that is:
1. A waist yoke - this means a wide shaped waistband, like a belt that follows the curve from your waist to high hip - as you try this pattern on, you can cut the bottom of the yoke to be parallel to the ground the whole way around, accounting from the different vertical measurements between waistline and hipline in the front, side and back. You attach the pleated rectangle to the bottom of your waist yoke, of course the rectangle now has to be 3x the circumpherence of your hips rather than your waist now.
2. Adding pleats to a regular a-line or straight skirt pattern. You can make your own basic skirt pattern with simple tutorials on youtube, but the basic difference from just two rectangles is that it tapers in at the top to your waist, with darts or just in the side seams, *and* your back piece is higher in the waist than your front piece, so you have to make a gentle curve from the front side seam in toward the middle. The last part is what prevents the skirt from being shorter in the back over your butt and at the sides.
A waist yoke is by far the easier patterning option in my opinion, because slashing and spreading this type of skirt pattern to account for pleats runs into some issues.
1.The side curve from the waist to the high hip means that you can't have a pleat running all the way up the side seam, so you get a gap in your pleats at the sides.
2. If you lay the front skirt pattern out in front of you, the waistline isn't a straight line, but a slight boat shape, curving up at each side. Slashing and spreading the pattern straight up and down in the middle of this curve makes for a confusing straircase shaped waistline that you'll have to mark to know where to iron the pleat later.
If you want the secont option, I highly recommend that you settle for two or three front box pleats instead. This means you need to spread the pattern much wider than for a regular pleat, but it also means you can center the two box pleats in the space the front which has a completely straight waistline, before the curve up to the side starts. If you have the same side length as back length, then the back panel has a straight waistline, and can be pleated however you like.
Again, I really recommend the waist yoke, because all you need to do to measure for it is get your waist and hip circumpherence, then try to put a thin tape all around your waist and all around your high hip in the mirror, making sure it looks completely horizontal from all angles, and then measure the distance between your waist at your center front, side and center back.
When you have a waist yoke, just get a straight rectangle 3x your high hip circumpherence and pleat it down to fit the bottom of your waist yoke.
I hope this wasn't too confusing, thanks for reading :) Hope it helps!
OMG sooo much amazing and useful info!!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to share this with everyone, including me! Love it!!!!!!
@@amyofmelbourne Ditto, for your video (: I wish I could have condensed my comment more but I couldn't think how at the time, glad you liked it ☺️💕
an option that looks very good, is to put a small section of pleats over the "princess line" or... roughly over the front of one of your legs.
Just an fyi: this style was also worn at HBCUs(Historically Black Colleges and Universities) here in the U.S. You can see Black students wearing these same outfits (from patched elbow jackets to pleated skirts) at school, at sit-ins and at marches. Ralph Lauren had a line that celebrated this. So it's not all negative.
Absolutely, the inspiration for this style is not exclusive to white people, but a lot of people who represent this style "forget" to be inclusive when describing it or creating visual references which in turn perpetuates the devaluation of minority contributions to aesthetics and style influence. Thank you so much for your comment! As you can probably tell I could go on and on about this topic but I don't want to get too sanctimonious, I want to model for others what I want to see, try to be as inclusive and respectful as possible.
I have been struggling to find plus size patterns forever. Whe you mentioned the curvy pattern database I thought I was going to cry. Thank you SO MUCH
It's incredible isn't it?! I'm so glad I could help you find some new resources! Thanks for watching ☺️
I was a pattern tester for the Marie vest. It is indeed super cute!
@@kelfae that's so good! I love hearing when people have actually made these things! Thanks for sharing!
I don't know if this helps, but Mood has free patterns, including the pinafore dress from The Queens Gambit. Goes up to hip measurement 34.5" to 63" (87 - 160cm)
Yes, absolutely, I included a couple in my last capsule wardrobe video but I got feedback that the mood patterns aren't drafted super well. Peppermint magazine has a pinafore pattern as a pay as you can pattern and it looks gorgeous too 😍
Thanks for watching and for your comment!
can recommend The Queens Gambit pinafore dress, I made it! Size 20
@@kckazcoll1 brilliant to know, thanks so much!
Bigger sizes from mood aren't scaled great , I expect some altering for a custom fit but it was getting silly when I used their patterns
@@Steampunk_Ocelot had the same feedback from many people
Fun fact... Back in the 70s, the US was supposed to transition to the metric system. It was a change that passed all the law making entities, but it was (apparently) to the "people" to adopt it. And we all know how much people love change. 🙄So here we are - 50 some odd years later still suffering with fractions and ridiculous memory aids so we can figure out how to use our lives. Anyone who has tried to double or halve a recipe in Imperial will understand that 1/2 CUP of baking soda is entirely too much... no matter how many cookies you're making. Ask me how I know.
Oh no!!! That would have been an experience... 😬🫢
I was taught metric when I was a kid at school but slowly I migrated to the us system since it was all around me 😢
Gunner Deatherage - Hemlock Coat and Cape FYI: Gunner was a contestant on Project Runway. and Project Runway All-Stars.
Oh wow, I did not know that, thanks so much!
thanks for pointing out that we use metric measurement, nothing more annoying than a pattern from the USA that only has inches and yards
Absolutely! It just becomes so inaccessible!
We in the US also think it’s stupid that we don’t use metric 😂
🤣🤣🤣
We have been using metric for 58 years in New Zealand lol. I learnt both because my mum uses both.
I do live in America. I have found myself using the metric system more and more. Because you are right. It is way easier to use. I have made the Harrison shirt. It is an excellent pattern. I love Muna and Broad. Their dulce brief is an excellent pattern. For me it was a game changer. I have a few of Gunners's patterns an am subscribed to his channel. That being said, I love your pattern suggestions. I plan to visit every site you listed that I didn't know about. Thank you for your hard work. Yes, I just subscribed. 🥰
Thank you so much for watching and for subscribing!!! I hope you find some amazing patterns, so many awesome designers out there!
I've never made any of his patterns, but Gunnar Deatherage is a hoot. He has a UA-cam Channel, which I highly recommend.
I have so many of his patterns in my makes que, he's so talented!
So Funny! When I was in high school (1969-1973), We were told that the government had decided to go to the metric system. They began force feeding us these measurements. Literally. They started at the supermarkets/grocers. We all buy 1 liter sodas and 2 liter sodas, evem 3 liter. Our quart is approximately 1 of your liters. It is the only real change that ever took. If we need a conversion, we just look it up. We all know that a meter is a little longer than a yard. We all know that the pint is a pound the world around. That is 16 ounces. Now there is a real mess when it comes to nuts and bolts and the tools the mechanics use. Most American made equipment and automobiles use imperical measurements. Not always. Most imports use metric. So we need 2 different size tool sets. Lets just say, we are NOT a nation of conformist.
I was in elementary school when we started to learn the metric system!! I always wondered why we didn't ever move forward with the conversion...
Imperial is the worst! I didn’t even know it was called “imperial” until I was older. It was taught (at least in my part of the country) as “standard”. No joke, that’s just how full of ourselves we are. Literally the rest of the world does it better but nope! we’re the standard. 🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Trust me (USA here), I have no idea why we don’t convert to metric🤯
LOL!
Same. I'm trying to make the effort to teach my son both metric and imperial so that he doesn't struggle in school, but so that he hopefully will be able to switch between the two easier.
Because... tradition, which can be defined as pressure from dead people. (also, in the US, and also, metric makes so much more sense.)
What a great video idea! I love the thought of breaking it down piece by piece. Jennifer Lauren Handmade has a couple really cute more fitted pinafores and cup sizes.
Thanks so much for watching, excellent suggestion I will definitely have a look! Love your channel btw!
@@amyofmelbourne oh! Thank you so much!
American here: I use cm when I am sewing! I’ve had to teach myself so I get the best fit of clothing
Oh wow! That must have been really hard so bravo! I have to use inches for quilting and i find fractions near impossible!
@@amyofmelbourne I know that I am giving away my age here a little, but as a child, I started to learn measurements in imperial and then we switched to metric while I was still quite young. It was easy for me to make the change, but much harder for my paren's ' generation . For some reason I still think of my height in feet and inches and my weight in kilograms. 😂
@@TheRealGrannyWeatherwax I do the same but I think because of my parents still using feet and inches. As long as we don't get down to Tony fractions I'm ok but agree for weights cannot use anything but metric
I am so in love with that dress you are wearing, need to find that video.
It's amazing and Elbe Textiles have incredible instructions, one of my favourites!
I'm 59, and they tried to teach us the metric system sometime during elementary school. It didn't take. The science teachers in the middle school where I teach use the metric system. I don't know if it will ever change here, but I suspect it will. While American independence is an admirable quality, this borders on the ridiculous.😆**The Seamwork Phoebe is probably the cutest pinafore I've ever seen. It goes up to 56" hips.**
Thanks so much for watching and the Pheobe is a great pattern suggestion! It's actually on my to make list atm!
Admittedly I've used imperial for so long with quilting that I'm not sure if metric would work in my head at this point either so I do understand the hesitation 😀
I really love this video!! thanks Amy, I love this style and didn't even know it was called dark academia. Your suggestions are really inclusive too. please do more of these videos, i am off to plan my outfit!! I am already thinking of accessorizing with stripey black and white witchy tights/socks which i imagine would look really cool with the steele pinafore (i have got already but have not made!! this is the kick up the bum to get sewing!)😁
👌
Yay!!!!!! I would love to see what you come up with! Thanks so much for the positive feedback!
I also have the Steele pinafore cut out and ready to sew and have done for about a year... I really need to get on to it!
The Stitchery UA-cam channel has a tutorial for an adjustable split side bib style pinafore. She has a circle skirt but there's no reason pleating can't be used. A mockup would have to be done before more expensive fabric was used though. I'm not sure it would work with this aesthetic it looks more cottage core.
Cottage core is on my list to do, great tip thanks!
This is the cutest style and great reviews! I love that you kept to inclusive styles. I feel like seamwork had a more fitted pinafore. Maybe Dani? But I remembered one with buttons. I’m not sure if it’s inclusive tho. Anyhoo, great video!!
Dani is a great pinafore pattern, excellent suggestion. They also have the Ulla which is very close but the fit on the models looks a bit strange to me...
Thanks so much for watching! 🥰
excellent video! love the patterns..
JenniferLaurenHandmade has a few pinafore patterns - the Ivy is a classic pinafore pattern with a straight or A-line shape
Such a good suggestion, thank you! ☺️
Could we have whimsigoth capsule wardrobe please?
Omg yes I would love to do that! Such a great suggestion, thank you!
@@amyofmelbourne I am wanting to add more fantasy/whimsy to my wardrobe that I can then mix with things I already have. I also love history bounding and fantasy bounding which came out of Disney bounding.
@@violetsidhe I LOVE history bounding and fantasy bounding. I've already started collecting my list for historybounding, but the aesthetic is so broad! Might end up being a 5 hour video 🤣🤣🤣
Great pattern picks!
Your bit about imperial vs metric is hilarious. I live in the US and I have been saying this all my life. I was all, “YES!!!” I don’t think anything will change though. 🤷♀️
👌
I'm so glad you enjoyed it, thanks so much for watching!!! 🥰🥰🥰
I'm also a pro-metric American. The more I see it creep in, the better. It's on a lot of our labels now, and we're all quite used to 2-liter bottles. 😁
Love the video! Wish the prices were put in the description.
That's a really good idea! Thanks for watching 🤩
I don't know why we are still using the imperial system and I'd like to apologize to the rest of the world.
Also, thank you so much for this video! I've always wanted to try this kind of style but never really had a starting point.
No worries! So excited that you feel you can dive in now!
I loved this! Thanks so much.
Thanks for watching!
OMG! an aussie! Thank you! :)
I'm 58. I can't cope with all these labels and tags. Ugh. No more. I just wanted a pattern suggestion for some casual pants/trousers... Thank you for the suggestions 😊
My 6 year old told me that something was "fire" today.... I get you 🤣
The reason the US doesn't change to the metric system is because everyone accommodates us. Even you who wants us to change is giving out the inches more often than not. It's the same thing with English, everybody learns English instead of making us learn their language.
Super valid point 🤔 thanks 🌟
Thank you so much for sharing all of these wonderful patterns. Even though I don't plan to make all of these specifically as my wardrobe doesn't lean as deep into the academia aesthetic, it is so helpful to know what designers, websites, etc. do offer size inclusive patterns. I'm just barely dipping my toes into sewing my own clothes and am currently in the research and pattern accumulation phase and videos like yours are invaluable to someone like me who is tired of having to spend hundreds of dollars on a single item of clothing that actually fits. So making my own is the best way I can think of to get clothes that actually fit me well and feel comfortable as a plus size woman.
That's exactly how I got started and then the obsession grew and took over my whole life, it's the best! I'm so glad you enjoyed the video and found value in it! 😁 Thanks for watching!
@@amyofmelbourne 💜
I'm just old enough that I can answer do use both metric and imperial - but it's for different things - they aren't interchangeable. People are measured in inches. Fabric is measured in m and cm...
Furniture is measured in inches, food is measured in grams 🤦🏻♀️
oh that's so interesting, I stick to feet for height but that's it and I'm pretty sure that's because it's what my parents use. Thanks for watching!
Hip measurement is in the schematic in the pattern on knit/crochet stuff. It is safe to assume a straight down sweater is the same around the hips as it is in the bust. In knit/crochet there are ways to tweek the pattern to fit different hips. 6 months too late.
That's great information thank you!!!
I JUST learned how to use my sewing machine and im so excited to do this. Thank you so very much for this video!!! ❤❤❤❤
@@sv2253 no worries at all, that is so exciting!!!!!! ♥️♥️♥️
Late to the party, but did anyone recommend Seamwork's Chantelle (adjustment needed to make sleeveless) and/or Ulla and/or Dani pinafore patterns to you (re: more trad vest style pinnie)? I also personally really like the Pippi pinnie by Jennifer Lauren Handmade :)
I love the pipi pini! The seamswork suggestions are brilliant too, thank you!
Apparently my style has a dark academia silhouette, though markedly not the colour scheme, because I now have so many must try patterns. First up is turning that cape into a raincape!
It's such a classic silhouette, I would love to see what you do with the cape! Thanks for watching! 🥰
Great fun!
That new skirt from the Friday pattern company (Bernadette?) could be a great option for this look too.
Also I quite like the style of the Apricot Pinafore Dress by cocowawa patterns for a more vintage style pinafore.
Yes! I saw the new FPC skirt after I had filmed the video but I absolutely agree it would be fantastic!
Cocowawa is a new company to me, thank you so much for suggesting them! Such cute patterns! I'll have to keep them in mind for the next capsule!
Thanks for watching!
60s style pinafore patterns -
Fig + Needle - Faron dress pdf; sizes UK 28/US 24/EU 56 - scoop neck front and back, front zip (full length, very 60s) a-line, above the knee. Princess seams front and back make it very adjustable and easy to size up
Jennifer Lauren Handmade - Ivy pinafore pdf; up to UK 34/US 30/EU 62 plus cup sizes A-F- a-line, high square neck, button straps, above the knee, back neck is a round sccop, very 60s. Options for a fitted or loose, flowy fit.
(JLH has several other pinnys - Pippi, Lauren, Georgie, Dulcie)
Great suggestions, thank you! Fig + Needle is a new one to me, definitely going to check out their stuff!
Ooh! The Knives Out sweater!
YES 🔥🔥🔥
The Amber Vest from Made for Mermaids is close with a full bust of 51" and hip of 54".
Excellent midsized suggestion, thanks so much ☺️
Wondering what the pattern is for the dress you are wearing in the video…. Thanks!
It's the Duplantier Dress by @elbetextiles and it is my absolute favourite pattern of all time! elbetextiles.com.au/products/duplantier-dress-digital-sewing-pattern
Brilliant video. Thanks for all the recommendations.
My pleasure! Glad you liked them, thanks for watching!
Great video, some interesting pattern finds. I will definitely be trying some 🤭👍
Thank you so much for watching! 🥰🥰🥰
Nice compilation! I would have liked the pattern picture to be left up longer...a bit rushed. Just saying.
Thanks so much for the feedback, super helpful. Thanks also for watching ☺️
Very small point - that last pattern - 110 cm is a bit over a metre, so more like 42 inches (you mentioned 30 inches which would be 80cm).
Thanks so much, I just copied the size charts provided by the designers, there was actually a couple where the conversion wasn't quite right but I didn't want to assume which measurement was correct 😬😬😬 hopefully no one gets caught out, thanks for your comment and for watching 🥰
@@amyofmelbourne I hope you realise you've just provided sufficient possible projects for my next year's worth of sewing! Also, *waves from Coburg*
🤣🤣🤣 I certainly hope so! This is why I always have a million more ideas than actual time to make them 🤣
Love the Heather blazer! I made mine out of denim
Oooh that would be so cool!
It's perfect for spring/fall
This style assumes people actually know what ivy league schools wear. I have no idea what anyone at Yale wears. I know some Christian colleges have dress codes. But aside from slacks for the guys and skirts or dresses for the ladies I really don't know. I guess no jeans, shorts, or sweat pants.
I'm so sorry I wasn't clear enough, I did include some reference pictures of the style, I did have a lot more context but I didn't want to bore anyone with my prattling. I always think dead poets society, Mona Lisa smile and a dash of legally blonde... Hope that helps! I'll try to be clearer in future videos. Thanks for watching ☺️
Listen to the Articles of Interest podcast series on "American Ivy" and she does like a six hour deep dive into this aesthetic that changes name Ivy, Preppy, Dark academia and how it relates to power, sexism, and MORE. It's SO GOOD.
💯 👍👍👍
Hey, this is my first time discovering your channel and I have to admit that I was thoroughly entertained by your name… as I too am Amy, and live in Melbourne!! It looks like we have many shared areas of interest, so I can’t wait to binge watch more of your videos 😁
@@amyrobertson6075 oh that's so cool! Amy's are generally pretty amazing creatures 💗 thanks for watching!
Love this!
Thank you! Thanks for watching
Wow! Thanks for this great collection of pattern recommendations- so inspiring!!
Thank you! 🥰🥰🥰
Hi Amy can you please tell me what being a member of your channel gets
Sure thing! At the base level (tackers) you get loyalty badges, live chats and priority comments.
The next level (basters) you get all the previous perks plus Member shout-outs, Photos and status updates, Members-only live streams and extra Online Shop Discounts.
One day I hope to add early access to videos but I think we all know I'm not that organised...
Core - essential elements. Sorry my language couldn't move on.
🤣🤣🤣
The US does not use Imperial measurements. It uses American measurements! Imperial measurements did not come into use until after Victoria became Empress of India. Believe it or not, America was independent of the British by then, and continued using their own Anglo-derived measurements. The ignorant assumption that these two systems are the same results in translations out of historical sources totally buggering up information, like WWII bomber ranges.
This was a very informative vid, including informing me that this would bore me spitless.
That's in interesting perspective, thanks for sharing. I had always read that the US officially selected the British imperial system around 1790 because of the writing of the constitution.
Thanks for watching and for your comment ☺️
Yes, we know about the metric system. Your condescension is off putting and unnecessary.
Thanks for watching in spite of my issues towards the imperial system, hope you found the rest of the video helpful