Great tutorial!! Also something to keep in mind for those rolling on swing arms, your rear wheel bearings are kept lubricated from the gear oil delivered through the axle tube. Thus, low gear box oil can be problematic two fold…
Glad to see you add the GL4 vs GL5 info. This is critical. There is no "universal" gear lube for both! I found out the hard way with my 5-speed Miata when I put GL5 in my transmission (the label on the bottle said it was universal) which made shifting nearly impossible. I got it out before there was permanent damage. There is a ton of info online about this. Do your homework. I won't recommend a brand because somebody always disagrees about something - sort of like having a favorite beer. GL4 is for transmissions with synchronizers. It is brass friendly. GL5 is for differentials with no synchronizers and no brass. Great info.
Thank you for posting this. It's been 40 years since I've changed VW trans oil. I was more interested in tools and type of oil, and you nailed it for me. Cheers dude! 👍 p.s. Thanx for the torque spec too.
Didn’t have a 17mm hex and I already took a trip to the parts store. Used a 17mm banjo bolt and a screwdriver and got the fill plug out. Filler ‘er up and put it back in finger tight
I have found that the funnel with the long tube is easier than the pump method, but both methods work. Just stumbled on your videos. Started with the turntable cleanup. Figured that anyone into keeping old turntables alive, as well as old vws and schlitz beer is worth a subscribe. Lol. Nice job! I’m into those three things as well...different beer though. I have several turntables (BIC’s and DUAL and a 74 super in the garage). Cheers!
Great informative demonstration video I like the bottle pumps as well sometimes you don't have the space to use bottle pumps though but I do have a suggestion... That would be you can put the gear oil bottle in some hot water to make the oil flow better that helps with refilling also sometimes... great work
I am relatively new to Bugs. I got a trike built in 2013 that is based on a VW1600 Engine. Annoyingly, the makers said that they import the engines from Mexico and so the Engine was brand new. Finally managed to limp past 4000 miles after almost 9 years or absolute hell, and failures, but in the end, a mate Stripped the engine for me, found out it was a 1300 Unit with 1600 heads, and the crank was rubbish, and so I gave up and I have bought a recon Turnkey engine, and this is the first time I have been able to actually enjoy riding my trike since I bought it. And I love it. Cosmetically its a bag of rubbish, the makers only gave it one single coat of paint and the so-called high quality metals and alloys were mostly chromed plastic and so they are all crappy and need replacing, as has the leather seats, but its getting there at long last. Anyway, enough moaning, I am getting into the Bettle engines quite a lot now. I have gone from Twin Webber to Single webber and now a basic EMPI ( I think it is? ) but at least its a simple carb and I know ZILCH about carbs - its running rich, and its cobnstantly stinking of fuel, but it runs great apart from that. Im about to do the Tranny oil, not replace, but just make sure its topped up as it has leaked some oil through the axle thingies... Not enough to make puddles, but enough to see the axel bits are wet with oil. I have done this before, but I watched the video to get another update if you like. Great video. I feel well informed and armed with more info!
The oil pump link above is for a small mouth 1 ltr bottle. Does not fit on 4 ltr. The black one used in the video looks correct - shame the link isn't. Just held the pump over the bottle. Good video though.
Do not be afraid to use VW tools. Keep it simple. Competent porting, solid internal components, and machining generate exceptional engine rebuild results. Remember, these engine cylinders do not use today's coatings; synthetic oil will help. Take care of your bug, and your bug will take care of you.
i was told and also did the same , filled it to the fill hole ,,,,thats a little too much of oil i am told from vw mechanics , they are telling me we are suppose to use like a alan wrench and gently put that wrench in there and then if you see oil on the tip then its at the right level ? i did mine like you did yours and its a new rebuilt and it leaked out the vent hole ? go figure LOL ,,,,,just passing this along
My bolt for the drain plug doesn’t want to go all the way in like yours it’s sticking out to the point I see threads. And I can’t tighten it anymore. It leaks all over my garage what’s going on???
Great video, simple, to the point, no fluff! Much appreciated!!!!
I have taken my bottle of gear oil and set it in a bucket of hot water to warm it and make it thinner
Makes sense. I could see this applicable in a cold environment. 👍
My tip is clean the area around the plug before removing it to keep dirt out of the transmission.
Yes, that is a good suggestion. Thanks for watching.
Really informative without being overly detailed. Thank you.
Great tutorial!! Also something to keep in mind for those rolling on swing arms, your rear wheel bearings are kept lubricated from the gear oil delivered through the axle tube. Thus, low gear box oil can be problematic two fold…
Glad to see you add the GL4 vs GL5 info. This is critical. There is no "universal" gear lube for both! I found out the hard way with my 5-speed Miata when I put GL5 in my transmission (the label on the bottle said it was universal) which made shifting nearly impossible. I got it out before there was permanent damage. There is a ton of info online about this. Do your homework. I won't recommend a brand because somebody always disagrees about something - sort of like having a favorite beer.
GL4 is for transmissions with synchronizers. It is brass friendly.
GL5 is for differentials with no synchronizers and no brass.
Great info.
Thank you for posting this. It's been 40 years since I've changed VW trans oil. I was more interested in tools and type of oil, and you nailed it for me.
Cheers dude! 👍
p.s. Thanx for the torque spec too.
Didn’t have a 17mm hex and I already took a trip to the parts store. Used a 17mm banjo bolt and a screwdriver and got the fill plug out. Filler ‘er up and put it back in finger tight
I have found that the funnel with the long tube is easier than the pump method, but both methods work. Just stumbled on your videos. Started with the turntable cleanup. Figured that anyone into keeping old turntables alive, as well as old vws and schlitz beer is worth a subscribe. Lol. Nice job! I’m into those three things as well...different beer though. I have several turntables (BIC’s and DUAL and a 74 super in the garage). Cheers!
Beautiful Williams Ratchet
gonna be changing the transaxle fluid in mine and it grinds 2nd gear sometimes so hopefully that will fix it or atleast help it anyways
I usually torque a half turn before snap. Lol. Great video that was quick and very informative. 👍
Keep the Bug video's coming! :)
Great alittle info something that I didn't know. I always wanted to own a superbug it look easy to work on and reliable.
Great informative demonstration video I like the bottle pumps as well sometimes you don't have the space to use bottle pumps though but I do have a suggestion... That would be you can put the gear oil bottle in some hot water to make the oil flow better that helps with refilling also sometimes... great work
That is a good suggestion. I've done that before when I was spraying Fluid Film.
@@ToolTeardowns helps alot with fluid film
Very cool video. Always neat to see the projects you're working on.
Nicely done. Thanks
Mobile one 75 -90w gear oil is the best next to Amzoil that I have used .Banks axel covers did a deep dive into oils
I am relatively new to Bugs.
I got a trike built in 2013 that is based on a VW1600 Engine.
Annoyingly, the makers said that they import the engines from Mexico and so the Engine was brand new.
Finally managed to limp past 4000 miles after almost 9 years or absolute hell, and failures, but in the end, a mate Stripped the engine for me, found out it was a 1300 Unit with 1600 heads, and the crank was rubbish, and so I gave up and I have bought a recon Turnkey engine, and this is the first time I have been able to actually enjoy riding my trike since I bought it.
And I love it.
Cosmetically its a bag of rubbish, the makers only gave it one single coat of paint and the so-called high quality metals and alloys were mostly chromed plastic and so they are all crappy and need replacing, as has the leather seats, but its getting there at long last.
Anyway, enough moaning, I am getting into the Bettle engines quite a lot now.
I have gone from Twin Webber to Single webber and now a basic EMPI ( I think it is? ) but at least its a simple carb and I know ZILCH about carbs - its running rich, and its cobnstantly stinking of fuel, but it runs great apart from that.
Im about to do the Tranny oil, not replace, but just make sure its topped up as it has leaked some oil through the axle thingies... Not enough to make puddles, but enough to see the axel bits are wet with oil.
I have done this before, but I watched the video to get another update if you like.
Great video. I feel well informed and armed with more info!
Excellent information. Thanks
I'd love to own another slug bug... thanks for videoing!
Hey thanks for the video! Wish I paid $30 bucks for that gear oil. Went up a bit...
You can also use a new kerosene siphon to put the oil back in that are pretty cheap.
My 68 Bug has 2 drain plugs on the transmission. I suggest you use a good synthetic gear oil for transmission.
Hey @ToolTeardowns, the 85W90, Sta-Lube, 1 Gallon, Hypoid Gear Oil, Yellow Metal Safe is no longer on Amazon. Is there anything else we can use?
Do I have to buy this stuff from Amazon?
The oil pump link above is for a small mouth 1 ltr bottle. Does not fit on 4 ltr. The black one used in the video looks correct - shame the link isn't. Just held the pump over the bottle.
Good video though.
Same happened to me….
Use a piece of 3,8th rubber fuel line for the tip of the quart containers and squeeze. It's a universal fit.
Are those the infamous Horrible Fright jack stands?
The ones they recalled or the ones they replaced the recalled jackstands with that they then recalled? 😂
Wish you would show where the fill plug is located
Excellent!
Thanks.
Maybe you should have mentioned which side of the car you were on to access the fill hole? Otherwise, very well done.
What side is the fill hole on as I have never done this before
@@ladye8569 Driver's side (left)
Do not be afraid to use VW tools. Keep it simple. Competent porting, solid internal components, and machining generate exceptional engine rebuild results. Remember, these engine cylinders do not use today's coatings; synthetic oil will help. Take care of your bug, and your bug will take care of you.
I put anti seize on the plugs before reinstalling them.
i was told and also did the same , filled it to the fill hole ,,,,thats a little too much of oil i am told from vw mechanics , they are telling me we are suppose to use like a alan wrench and gently put that wrench in there and then if you see oil on the tip then its at the right level ? i did mine like you did yours and its a new rebuilt and it leaked out the vent hole ? go figure LOL ,,,,,just passing this along
My bolt for the drain plug doesn’t want to go all the way in like yours it’s sticking out to the point I see threads. And I can’t tighten it anymore. It leaks all over my garage what’s going on???
Did you ever figure this out? Mine is doing the same thing and I can’t get it to go back in all the way.
Earlier years have 2 drain plugs
Liked and subscribe 🤘🏼
Use diesel for the first fill. it flushes the gunk and cost less.
The first thing to do is to celan, to wash the chasis of the Car.
You could tell that this guy was a vw guy...
This is my first VW. All the other classic cars I've owned were vintage American cars.