Classic Volkswagen Oil Change! (Beetle, Super Beetle)
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2024
- In this video I show you how to change the oil on your classic air-cooled Volkswagen, whether that be a Beetle, Super Beetle, Karmann Ghia, Bus, etc.
For more information on what type of oil to use based on your location and climate, visit:
www.vw-resource.com/oil-chng.html
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Jason, you must be in Seattle. You have a Bow Wow shirt. I loved that place. I had a 68 bug in Germany and after I came home had a 75 Super Beetle. Orange and I put a CB in it. Had so much fun with that car. Glad I found your channel.
Dwight Reed glad you found it too! Yeah I’m near Seattle. Thanks for telling me about your cars too.
Any chance of doing a video of a valve adjustment?
Great video. For everyone, you do not need to remove the sump plate during an oil change. The sump plate and strainer were designed for non-detergent oils from yesteryear. These oils congealed around contaminants and settled in the sump plate. Modern oils have detergent additive which suspends contaminants so they come out with the oil at the drain plug. Most only take the sump plate off every few changes just to check the strainer. Also, never put your fuel filter in the engine compartment! #1 cause of engine fires. It is much safer to use a metal filter and place it under the D/S wheel arch between the fuel outlet in the frame and the firewall.
Yes, and replace any cloth/rubber fuel ines with stainless steel mesh type where they go thru sheet metal.
Loved it. We just got a Karmann Ghia 69 here in Hillsboro, OR and we were wondering why it doesn't have an oil filter and the whole process is SO simple. Just subscribed. THANKS for sharing!
Literally the expression at 1:54 earned a subscription.
My 1st car was a ‘74 standard Beetle that same shade of blue. I like the 2 tone of yours with the white and the simplicity of these vehicles. I wish I had another 1 in the shape yours is in.
Great videos!! I've been thinking of getting a super beetle, your videos give me an idea on what to expect. I'd like to see one on how you adjust the valves!
Dude, that bigger nut in the middle of all the little 10mm bolts is there to drain the oil first so you don't get oil pouring all down your arm when you take the small ones out. Lol!!
Nice bug by the way!
Small world - the owner of Bow-Wow is a friend of mine and found me an all original 1973 superbug. It needs work and I know zero about mechanical stuff or VW. I’m doing some basics on it this week to see if it’ll run or if it needs a new engine. Thanks for the helpful video!
Thank you! My dad just bought a 1969, and I got concerned when I didn't see anything familiar underneath! Definitely different from regular cars!
Jason , I Can Tell You First Hand Your Certainly Not An Idiot . You Have Your Own Way Of Doing Things Which Is Awesome . I Myself Am No Different .
I am a relatively new owner of a '78 Super Beetle and this video helped me do my first solo oil change! Thanks for the great guide.
Awesome! Is yours fuel injected?
Secure an original owners manual for your car. Huge!
Wow thanks for the info! Just bought my first super beetle and am totally green on them
Sam here. Got my ‘71 Super Beetle about 3 months ago. Just got it up and running recently. Still a little more to do. 🙂
Great video! I wish I had quality how-to videos like this for my truck.
Awesome video. I learned exactly how to do oil change for my '74 Super Beetle. Thanks so much.
Thanks! There'll be another Super Beetle video early next month.
I worked in a VW dealership as a tech in the 1960's 30 weight was the recommended oil, lower temps 20 weight. We always drained the oil using the drain plug then removed the strainer. Always. Mid 70's? VW switched to multi grade 10-30 or 10-40. 30 weight is still easily available. Back then oil change interval was 1,000 miles adjust valves every 3 thousand miles. We also added HRL (no longer made) Engine life back then? 100,000 miles easy if taken care of following schedule.
Thanks for your input Richard!
Just got my 62 single cab…thanks for posting enjoyable material.
Congrats!
Just bought a 67 beetle and this was soooooo helpful!
Me too. I just bought a 58 👍
@@jaysone950 very nice!
I recently purchased a 67. ❤
great looking car and great video! thanks for sharing
Jason you are right I have always used Castrol 20/50 here In Texas and never had a problem with it. Thanks for backing me up
Never 50wt according to the Germans
@@brianchisnell1548 that's because it's usually really cold there here in Texas it's perfect
I used to own a 1973 Super Beetle, that I switched out the stock muffler for a monza exhaust that sounded similar to what you have but looked different.
Nice shirt! Just found out Bow Wow is still kicking in Monroe. I stopped by and it’s in a very small shop. I really hope it can stick around!!! Maybe you could do a video about Bow Wow and get it some attention to make sure it stays around. Thanks for the video. I’m up here in WA and doing an oil change on a 66 ghia. This video is super helpful
Thank you! I'm watching this because I have a VW Beetle engine on an old home made log splitter.
Thank homie I hadn’t worked on Vw for 25 years shit has changed your awesome ! I own one I really neded this video I have old Vw bug me vhs still in my collection I’m from back day s
a great simple to follow video. thank you
Thanks dude. Did my buggy with the same oil
Your bug looks immaculate, as does your workshop.... One can but dream!
Looking to buy one right now super stoked, good video!
Nice! Check for rust behind the crescent vents!
Very clear instructions thank you.
I have a question. I would like to install an Oil Pressure Sender / Switch onto my 1969 Beetle. I'm unable to determine where it is to be installed. Can you help me?
Super helpful. Thanks!
When I was a kid I had a few of these. My older brother had a shop in Seattle for 30 years and he was sort of obsessive about changing the oil in air-cooled bugs/buses. He always told me to:
#1 level the car to keep any dirty oil from flowing to the front of the case, preventing it from draining completely.
#2 after loosening the stud nuts, go away for ten minutes to avoid the mess and allow the fountain to subside to a dull roar. When ever he broke open the cases, there was signifcant sediment forward of the oil drain plate, and often over lapping it.
His other trick when re-building vintage Porsche engines was to manually turn over the motor a couple dozen times to get the oil pump pushing oil around before firing it off. He also said the doing this was a good idea when changing oil. Often, more oil was needed to top it up. Oil - pristine, clean oil - is the life blood of an aircooled engine, particularly if it is driven in hot, or very slow conditions such as a freeway in LA.
His re-builds were famous on the West Coast for long life. Jus' sayin'
Thanks for the awesome story and info! 👍
Where do you place the jack and stands? I've only ever used ramps. I tried using ramps with my Squareback but they don't fit.
Where did you get your aftermarket oil filler? Also, what type of carb is that ? Great looking bug! I have a ragged 73 convertible with a really good engine. It’s my daily driver, but I don’t drive much as I live in a small town suited for walking.
I like your garage, very nice!
I miss it. It was very cool. Built in the early 1940’s and I helped make extensive repairs to it.
Jason, great video, i noticed you have your fuel filter mounted in the usual spot above the distributor, after mine leaked one day on to the distributor and caught my motor on fire i have mounted it away from that just a safety tip
Thanks Klinn. I'm aware that can happen. I check it consistently but I'll likely move it in the future.
I just was given a 71 beetle that has been sitting for about 11 years ..getting it running is the fun part . I'd like to preform a oil flush where2 parts oil 1 part kerosene let it warm than chainge over to all fresh oil .. This I'm told would clean up the inside really well. Thanks for posting . just wanted to see what I'm up against.
2 qts oil and 1/2 qt. auto trans. fluid would be better. It is super detergent 30 wt.
I must say, that's the cleanest oil I have ever seen get drained out of an engine. :)
Nice video
I love your car man how old are you when you actually drive this car and how long did you have it?
Could you please show what you mean by star pattern?
Isn't that big bolt in the centre of the sump plate the drain plug? Also, you neglected to mention using new copper crush washers on re-assembly.
Use center nut. Every 3rd oil change, clean strainer. 3k mi.
Clean little machine you've got there. Very nice. Mine is crusty and rusty. Just the way I like it. :D
Hey Jason! Thanks so much. I'm a beginner in the VW oldtimers, but I recently bought a 1973 Beetle. I wanna do some maintenance myself, including an oil change so this helped a lot! One question, is a mineral spirit the same as for example, white spirit? When I looked it up on google, it even got me more confused :D ! Thanks dude!
Another thing that works is paint thinner if you can't find mineral spirits.
Don't normally change oils myself but thought of changing for beetle but the mess it has at the bottom seems like go to mechanic ..but nice video .. thanks
great video I have a 74 also, never changed the oil ,that looks pretty easy to do myself , Do you have a video on changing the spark plugs ,mine has a AC ( installed by dealer in 1974 so i'm worried about access ?
Should be the same. Send pics of the AC! That’s so cool!
I have the same car, a 1962 model. It works, but the oil leaks a lot. How can I get a new motor like this? Is it made again or is it recycled?
Thanks for the vid. I need a Vdub buddy in the Phoenix area tohelp me learn how to work on my beetle. 😭
why didn' t you first drain from the center plug ?
Why does my buggys dip stick have two lines for ?
Hi there Jason, Great video! Do you know of a good forum or Facebook page for 1968 Beetles? "Babes" is a new addition to our family. Unfortunately, removing one of the 6 nuts off the oil plate, one of the studs came out, with the nut now stuck on one end. Someone recommended just leaving it stuck on there and putting red threadlocker on it and putting it back in after cleaning everything. But would it be best to somehow get the nut off the stud and THEN using the threadlocker to put the stud back on? And then put the oil pate, new washers and gasket and THEN all 6 nuts back on? I am thinking then next time we change the oil we don't have to take out the whole stud with the nut stuck on it and having to remember which one has the threadlocker on it. Making it harder to take out? Right? LoL Trying to do it the smart way to make things easier down the road. I just found a video showing to but a nut and another end cap nut on the other side to grip onto to get the stuck nut off. Sorry so long winded here. I have a million questions with other things we are working on, so a forum or FB page would be nice to search through or ask questions. :). Thanks again for this video and we will be looking through all your others!!!
When I had my 66 once or twice a year after draining the oil I'd fill the engine with kerosene pull the coil wire and crank the engine over, sit overnite then drain. AMazing what came out.
👍
very good!
hey jason what is the big bolt in the midle of the olie plate ? and thanks for a good video
That’s a drain plug the original owner retrofitted into the plate. It was seized so I didn’t use it at the time.
Thank you!
Love Castrol products. Run 10-40 year round Hawaii
Is that a drain plug in the middle and if so why not drain it that way?
Same year and model, great video !
awesome!
Would there be a recommendation on the torque settings on those strainer bolts ?
I believe it’s 10 ft lbs. but double check.
Jason, one thing I don't hear when you run your engine is the classic VW beetle chirp that come from stock exhaust pipes.
Yeah, I know. I may switch out the muffler for a stock one to get that back. :-)
good job thank you
Thanks Lynne!
Very nice car!
yes, and a good looking garage.
Great video!! Just curious why not drain via the drain plug?
I clean the strainer each time so it's just one less step... that and this is what I was taught back in the day.
@@JasonExplainsThings makes sense :). Thanks for the explanation.
Hey Jason . Any insights for changing the oil on my 1960 Fiat 500 Nuova? Have been reading the manual and a bit confused... think VW air cooled could be a similar path to follow? Thx!
Sorry I don’t. Never worked on a Fiat before. But the process is probably pretty similar.
@@JasonExplainsThings thanks, Jason, for getting back to me . No worries . Keep up the great, informative -and entertaining-videos! Cheers
Hey, Jason! Wondering what air filter you have and if you'd recommend it and also what kind of oil filler neck do you have, and was it easy to install? Thank you!
Hi Cade, the air filter and housing came with the Weber carb kit. The oil filler neck is from EMPI I believe. Aluminum Vertical Oil Filler. I don't use too much EMPI stuff but I really like it... makes adding oil without spilling or using a funnel really easy.
@@JasonExplainsThings can you do a video explaining how to change out the originaloil filler to the vertical one?
Hi i have a question. When jacking up the car,do we have to jack up front and back both? Does the car has to be parallel to the floor when oil draining?
Good question. I just jack up from the back. That's what I was taught back in the day and I've never different. Since you remove that entire plate I'm confident nearly all oil gets out.
Pull center bolt first. When drained,, jack up the car and pull strainer every 3rd oil change
I use straight SAE30 in my 74 super, when I bought it the car was running some kind of diesel engine oil, some people have said you need it, I find I don't. I actually have a hard time finding straight 30 even though it's super cheap, no overheating problems here at all, oil comes out clean every time.
I do notice my drain plate drips after I run the engine a bit, probably over tightened the center drain plug when I bought the car, whoops! Time to get myself a new one with a magnetic center bolt.
Valvoline VR-1 30 wt. 30 to 100 degrees. Hi zinc. For flat tappet engines. The best.
Jason Nice vid and really nice Bug is there any specific reason you drained the oil by loosening the bottom plate rather then by the drain plug ??
That's just how I was taught to do it. You need to clean the screen each time anyway.
If you drain it from the center plug first you won’t get oil all over you😁
I was wondering the same thing. Also, I don't even have a center bolt?? Is that normal. No drain plug bolt?
@@jamesmitchell3634 they manufacture sump plates with and without a drain plug totally normal and just a preference
@@owenmahoney1619 Oil seems to be seeping out of my replacement sump plate? Guess I need to drain oil again and see if i forgot a gasket somehow?
Hi! Nice video. I'm using the same oil as you, but I'm wondering if Castrol with zinc is a better choice? Do I really need the zinc? (BTW...mine's a 67 Beetle)
Yes! I’ve switched to that since making this video.
Valvoline VR-1 30 wt. Hi zinc.
Whats the correct way to check oil dipstick? Pull it out and check?....or rotate the dipstick back n forth, then pull it out
Shut egine off. Wait 3 min. Pull, wipe, insert. Pull. Full is in between the marks. 2.6 qts.
Hi! What do you think about use engine oil flush? Is it a good idea? I have VW T2a from 68 and last time oil was really dark. Thanks :)
I usually don't do a flush per se. I know some folks add Sea Foam to oil a week or so before changing the oil... which is said to be able to break up deposits. Personally I just change the oil with the oil warm so it drains easily.
@@JasonExplainsThings Thank you for your answer. Greetings :)
I have a 1965 beetle can this process be applied on my beetle?
Very similar. Your oil capacity and recommended weight may be different.
Hi Jason, is it advisable to use fully synthetic engine oil on our VW beetle engine? Thank you.
I’ve heard from a few places they’re fine, but don’t really have any added benefit.
@@JasonExplainsThings Oh I see. How about HD oils?
Any reason why you didn’t adjust the valves?
Separate job/video. But definitely important.
Ok, got a question that is totally unrelated to the oil change. Those don't look like stock seats, what are they from and were they difficult to install?
Video all about that actually on the channel. Check out the Super Beetle Car Tour video.
Some say to use 15-40 diesel oil because they can handle hi heat, what’s your thoughts on that Jason??
Haven’t done that in the bug, but I have in my old truck that seemed to be getting hot. I’m kinda set in my ways with the VW.
@@JasonExplainsThings I’ll go with your ways for the bug because you know the scripture… “He who is without oil shall throw the first rod” Lubrications 10-30
1.6L engine would take 3L of oil?
What kind of seats do you have ??
Check the VW playlist. There’s a car tour video that talks about them.
Don't you need to add zinc? (sry for asking this if you already mentioned it in the video)
A good point. There is a high zinc version of Castro GTX now. 👍
👍
Can you also use kerosene/petrol when cleaning those strainers ? Because this is the first time i see how an oil change is done to a vw beetle in comparison to other cars 😄
Yeah I'm sure that would work fine.
what is the bolt in the center for
That’s for lowering the engine.
Did you Adjust the valve
Here's a video I made about how to do that: ua-cam.com/video/cbPRhO2Dgp8/v-deo.html
Hi Jason I have a 1970 Volkswagen Beetle what oil do I use
Check out the link in the description. Depends on your climate.
I use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 high zinc oil for flat tappet engines. My engine pulls an airplane and that oil works well in it.
Danka
No one makes a little filter to stick in that strainer? Or would it not be worth it?
williwonti There are aftermarket products that can add a filter, the best being a kit that connects to where the oil pump is. But then you have to replace the exhaust. I just try to keep the strainer nice and clean.
My handrail I bought with the vw 1600cc has an aftermarket relocater
You don’t want a pressure drop before the pump. A filter should be used after the pump, either as full flow or bypass.
Did you use all 3 bottles ??
Nope, more like 2.5.
Do you have to buy a new gasket for it every oil chamge
I do yes.
They’re really cheap and I buy them in bulk.
@@JasonExplainsThings OK thanks a bunch this video really helped
33 to 100 degrees VW recomends 30 or 10w 30. Cold weather, 20 wt. If oil is too thick, you will engage the oil cooler bypass valve. I like high zinc VR-1 from Valvoline. For flat tappet engines. Full is halfway between the marks. Never put the whole 3 quarts in. Owners manual says 2.6 qts. The stainer needs to skim the surface of the oil.
I trust the website I linked to but I definitely value other insight. ZR1 is great oil. I use it in my small engines. 👍
Was about to comment this....I used to run 20w-50w after research and temperature readings I couldn’t figure out why my engine was running hotter than is should’ve been. Well it was bypassing my oil cooler because the oil was so thick!!!! I switched over to 10w30 and I’m even running a turbo now with the stock oil cooler and temps are running much cooler! Get on bitog.com for a whole world of info and much smarter people than any vw forum has. Good luck 👍
Secure an original owners manual for your car. Do not rely on young kids on YT for tech info.
Why not synthetic oil? Any particular reason, at 3000 miles I guess it would not matter anyhow?
Michael that website vw-resources.com explains it. Essentially it’s not necessary. And since other maintenance needs to happen every 3k high quality conventional is recommended.
What I have read on this is that synthetic oils have very different heat transfer qualities to mineral oils. This doesn't matter in a water-cooled engine because the water is doing by far the bulk of the work of transfering heat out of your engine. But in an air-cooled engine you are relying on the oil as a lubricant AND a heat transfer fluid, to move heat to the air/heat exchanger. If the transfer from oil-to-block is lower, then the engine can't shed the heat it needs to and runs too hot. Mineral oils are apparently better for air-cooled vehicles for this reason.
@@labibbidabibbadum😊
wish I could find a bug, anyway where I work and at home, safety glasses is a must
Is mineral or synthetic oil better?
I’ve read from people smarter than me that synthetic is not helpful on older VW engines. I’d recommend reading the link in the description.
With the short oil change intervals on a air cooled vw there is no benefit to synthetic
Your not an idiot for using 20W-50 I do in mine for the summer I use the Valvoline 20W-50 high zinc racing oil lol
50 is too thick. 30 wt. Up to 100 degrees. Hi zinc is best.
What about using diesel oil?
Not sure honestly. I did that with my old truck to help it run cooler and cut down on oil leaks and it worked great. But I’ve never heard one way or the other about VWs.
@@JasonExplainsThings Here in Brasil people are all over these VWs and I heard there are people using diesel oil to help clean the engine.. What do you think?
Jason why didn't you remove the larger center bolt on the plate first to drain the oil . Doing so would have been much more cleaner and replace it before removing the plate. That's why its there Other than that great Job
I was wondering the same thing!
“All over your tool”
I chuckled too
Why not use the oil drain plug to drain it? Then remove the plate, I don't get it.
The strainer gets removed and cleaned anyway so draining from the center plug first would be an extra step and make the oil change take longer. That's the way I was taught as a kid, and honestly I've never seen anyone do it any other way. But to each their own. :-)
Gotcha, thanks for responding
No prob Larry!
Still not sure about how you are checking dip-stick. Do you pull it straight out? Or, do you rotate the dipstick clockwise/counterclockwise when its inside the case, then pull it out. Because for me: i get 2 different readings. When i pull dipstick straight in and out , im barely above the bottom line. But if i rotate it twice and pullout, im at the top line.
Why not take the drain plug out first? Less messy that way.
At the time it was seized on.
if i had an aircooled bug id put that 20w50 weight ...in a aircooled engine the oil lubricates but mainly it absorbs heat from the engine ..thats why its needed to have a heavy wieght oil..if it drieves in coastal or desertic weather id put even 25w60 hands down
To thick. Will engage hi pressure relief valve. 30 wt. 30 to 100 degrees.
When changing oil in a 1600 vw, why don't you use the center bolt to drain the oil?
Drain the bulk from the bung in the middle first ;-)