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I KILLED My Foxbody and Have No Idea How...
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2021
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TheCraig909
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I appreciate all the helpful comments and I will go through them all when I have more time. BUT the issue is there is no voltage at the injector and they are not firing so that is what I need to backtrack and figure out where the injector gets voltage from when the key is on. The ignition system all works as it should. This is a fuel delivery issue. Any pointers are always appreciated! Thanks everyone.
Don't know how hard to get to the injector plugs you could work backwards from there. Just a thought good luck be sure to let us know.
Inside the tank the fuel pump connects it self to the hard lines with a very small hose that a lot of times it cracks and splits . The fuel pump will turn on and cycle the way it should but the fuel system will not build pressure because the pump basically will be spraying fuel inside the tank due to the broken little hose ...
get yourself a cheap fuel gauge and connected to your rail on the engine bay , the port will be located on the passenger side towards the front of the valve cover area ... you should have at least 40psi of fue pressure ...
I had that little hose splitting on me many times , i can bet you money is that little hose ...
I'm by no means a pro but I just had a similar issue with my 66 mustang project where it was running fine for about a month then all of a sudden it wouldn't start unless I shot the carb with some starter fluid, and it would quit soon after. I put a fuel pressure gauge in and the pressure was too low (around 4.5 psi instead of the 7-10 range) so I knew it was either a bad fuel pump or a corroded fuel line (there was a lot of black stuff in the fuel filter). Ended up replacing the pump, the metal line, and the hoses so I knew everything was fresh leading up to the carb and boom, 8.5 psi and running great. Not sure how transferable this is to a newer car like your fox, but just figured I'd share what helped in my situation.
Could be a bad ignition switch. Fox bodies are known for it.
Injector power comes from the PCM power relay which also powers the fuel pump relay, MAF, canister purge, EGR, IAC and Air Injection Sol. Having fuel pump and PCM but no injector power indicates a broken wire in the harness.
I just saw the codes... everything there indicates no power getting from the PCM relay to under the hood. Having the codes at all indicates the relay itself IS working because the PCM is getting power. My advice, get an signal tracer from harbor frieght and pick an easy injector plug to hook up to then trace out the signal. A lot easier to start from under the hood in this case.
I have a 94 f150 that had a starting issue. Everyone thought it was the fuel pump. Changed that and the gas tank (was starting to rust out). The truck ran about a week then same issue. Turned out it was a loose wire under the dash causing the fuel issue. I think you are definitely on the right track looking at wiring. After having your dash on and off so many times it could be something as little as a loose wire.
At the beginning of the video when you crank the stang it had about 450 rpm, that is an indication of spark, so the no start problem was obviously about fuel 😉
need a noide light for the injector....but also the need to have a correct psi to open and close to....check fuel pump pressure with a gauge if good then move to the injector pule noide light
on my 302, I had constant problems with the EFI/TFI electronic systems. no matter what i did i could never make it reliable. I put a megasquirt ECU in with all brand new wiring, then a year later my ignition system would go out every 2 months or so. so i switched to a HEI distributor and a Holley street demon 625 carburetor and now it makes more power and havent had a problem since the switch.
Best channel on UA-cam! Love your videos Craig!
Gotta love that “LOVE/HATE” relationship with vehicles man…
That last code about the fuel pump circuit just means that the computer is reading when there is voltage to the fuel pump. I get that code because when I installed my 5.0 in my Galaxie I didn't include that circuit. If you bypassed the cars wiring to get the pump to run, then the computer just isn't reading that the fuel pump has voltage. It won't stop your car from starting.
I’ve been daily driving trucks for a while now. A 460 Big Block, a ‘77 M Small Block, and now for the past 4 months I’ve been driving my dually with a 454. I haven’t seen double digit mpg in years.
Possibly ignition module on distributer. Years ago, mine would die whenever the car was hot. I swapped it out for one out of a tbird which mounts on the fender instead and has a heat sink assembly on it. Never happened again. Just had to wire it remotely to the distributer using a gutted module. Still like that today and works great.
Good luck.
The absolute best video on diagnosing TFI/PIP issues was made by Eric the Car Guy. Easy to find. also, the rebuilt distributors are absolute JUNK. Relocate that TFI NOW. Do yourself a favor man. It never hurts to carry a spare TFI module as well as the special socket to change it out. Motorcraft TFI modules are the only ones worth a damn also.
If you didn't know this already when you go to replace the ignition module on the old distributor do not touch the metal surface (shiny) and make sure the thermal paste is on it. So many people forget the thermal paste and its dead in a week. Also go genuine Ford for the ignition module. I learned this from an old guy and never had an issue afterwards.
I've changed over many of these to either carbureted or throttle body fuel injection from Holley because of problems like this. It could be the computer. It could be bad ground. It could be a corroded connection. Even at the battery or starter. I chased a wiring glitch for three days in one of these. The wiring had never been touch or fooled with in any way that I could find. The only way we got this one to work the way the factory intended it to work, We replaced the whole harness and computer. At the time, that cost the guy 900 bucks. And that was just in parts. After we replaced the harness and computer it ran. We never did figure out what was wrong with the wiring or in the computer. Diagnostically it was fine. But it absolutely would not run in that car. After that, we would either change them to carburated or Holly TBFI. Good luck. I hope it turns out to be simple. If it's not, you could trace this glitch forever.
You're alot more patient than I am...I bought an 86 F150 302 EFI auto...wiring was garbage, would not stay running for more that 20 seconds...and then it would take 20 minutes or more just to run again. The timing cover still had a spot for a mechanical fuel pump...so...heads and intake was swapped, went with a points distributor and a slightly longer oil pump shaft to the distributor, added a mechanical fuel pump and BAM 2nd most reliable rig I've ever owned...way too impatient to chase wiring problems
As rosannadanna used to say ‘if it isn’t one thing,it’s another thing 😂😂😂😂
Check the fuel pressure and pump some out of the tank to make sure you didnt get a huge slug of water in your fuel.
If you get the hatch latch assemble from a 1992-1993 it improved design over the one in your stang. Did the swap on my 89 Fox and shuts every time.
You'll figure it out Craig... The Galaxy's snuck up on it after dark and did the job on it! *whack-whack...whack*
Same issue I had on a Ranger spent several days tracing wires ended up having to buy a new ECU fired up like new. Hope that it is not the same. Good luck.
in your case, it was most likely blown capacitors in the ECU. it’s a common problem on the obd 1 computers. you can replace the capacitors and it isn’t too too difficult. just gotta know how to solder onto circuit boards. there’s tutorials on youtube about doing it
That is one awesome truck keep the video's coming
Check the salt and pepper shakers (black and white 10 pin connectors behind the intake) sometimes they don’t make great connections and can cause a lot of different problems.
Most the codes you got aren’t much to worry about except the fuel pump circuit. Does the fuel pump prime and then shut off when you turn the key, or does it stay running the whole time the key is on? If it stays on and doesn’t “prime” and then shut off a capacitor in the ECM is bad. Other than those 2 things I can’t really think of much.
If you had a corvette you wouldn't had that problem 🤣🤣jk man love you're vids man
check your white and black plugs on the backside of the intake manifold sometimes they will come lose. you can also use and marker light bulb if you don't have a set of noid lights for checking to make sure you injector pulse.
Salt and pepper shakers is the foxbody term ...lol
@@bama_5.051 yep it sure is.lol i don't put it because i didn't know if he was going to know what hell i was talking about. even though it's pretty obvious by the why look.
Check relay wire under seat should be green check for 12v with key on. Also check all your grounds, check power at eec relay, good starting points.
An OE Motorcraft distributor will be better than any aftermarket one.
I had a problem like this one time. Make sure you have enough pressure for the injectors to work. Mine was putting out some pressure, just not enough.
Sooo close to 100k, hopefully by next week 🤟
Problem - EFI
Fix - Vic JR and 4779
No more problems !
Check the black and white plugs behind the intake manifold.
I bought a foxbody a year ago and it had the same issue when I got it. I changed out a lot but to no avail. Finally bit the bullet and got a brand new ecu for it and it worked. Not saying its what's wrong with yours, but it's an option.
It is really the last thing you want to spend on, only after you've checked/verified everything else.
Exactly cause they're so expensive and honestly not very easy to find. But when nothing else works. That's why I said it as in like hey keep it in mind that it could be this
I had a starting issue with my 96 F150 before brother so there for you're not alone.
Man I love my Foxbody the little coupe can drive me crazy I've had issues I've never seen before on another car but I would never let it go lol
I have a 81 notch back. I have a 355 svc in it. Fun fast car. No issues
As you Mentiond in the video about thinning the herd so to speak, it’s good to do it while your young. It gets tiring to have a bunch of junk around after a while.
big rectangular plug tgo do wth the key switch wires in column por check kick panel plug with bolt in it purple white wire fuel circuit in kick panel i believe
Had that problem on an old lariat. Drove me nuts. Turns out the fuel pump relay was only working intermittently. It would start and drive sometimes. Other times nothing at all.
A bad coolant sensor can cause a no start especially when cold.
how long does the fuel pump stay on for when you initially turn the key before cranking (if it’s a stock pump setup)? my 93 f150 with obd 1 had an issue where the fuel pump wouldn’t turn off after the initial prime like it should and it caused a no start. ended up being bad capacitors inside the engine computer. it wasn’t all too hard to get the computer out and put in a new capacitor there’s tutorials on youtube about it. so one thing you could do if nothing else works is pull your computer out, take the lid off it (really easy) and check for blown capacitors
yes and the CCRM module controls some functions too.
My fox did the same a while back. Changed TFI, fuel pump relays, checked the fuel pressure, and it was primo. My ECU turned out to be fried so I went to megasquirt. They can be finicky but it’s the fox life
Are you going to fix the window trim on the mustang? seems like the biggest eyesore. otherwise i like what you have done to it.
Yea haha I just gotta get it to start.
I had to bypass my inertia switch because it took a dump on me and when you put the flywheel on the f100 did you put thread sealant on the bolts if not they go into the crank case and they will sometimes leak through the bolt holes
Fuel pump , regulator , injector signal , ecm plugs , injector harness , ecm.
Also check the wires on the solenoid, and make sure all the grounds are connected well
You are in for a fun time. Check the ground on your ECM and on your injectors. Over time they get loose. Truly, I hate electrical problems. BTW , what size t-shirt do you wear? I'm constantly running into cool stuff.
Maybe check the clutch pedal neutral switch if your model has it. I rebuilt a 95 civic from the junk yard and the rubber stopper behind the pedal rest pad had popped out by a thick thigh 😂 so the switch wouldn’t contact to complete the circuit. I realized the engine that came out was good also 😆. Started right up.
Another fox vid sweet
Similar issue on my 86 turned out to be a tfi module. Keep a spare and the correct thin socket in the center console to swap it when the new one fails! Oops you are just getting to that...
Check the tfi unit under the distributor or the spark box on the fender those 2 things usually go out on late 80s early 90s ford efi vehicles
Sound of a reliable car sounds like and then I wait to see a Chevy
I had the same issue with my 95 f-150 4.9 . It would crank over but not run. It would start with starting fluid but not keep running I just decided just get new fuel pump and fuel filter and that had resolved the problem.
My 1999 vs ute( yes a ik a Holden commdore not a Ford but still enjoy watching your stuff) has a rear main leak, driving it leaves a nice smoke trail for whoever behide you. miss hearing that 304 screaming haha
Hey what kind of seats do you have in your truck?
Check the black and white injector harnesses connection aka salt and pepper shakers
Is the security light on? Bought a mustang that would turn over, run on starting fluid but injectors wouldn't drop gas. Guy had used another ecm and it didn't recognize the key. Installed the old one and fired right up. Good luck
Same thing happened with my 83coupe going down the twenty mile straight to key largo.
You need the thunder pump 3000 off the truck 😁 .. you will figure it out 🤞 😎
Make sure the fuel pump primes when you turn the key on. If not the relay or the pump is not working. If they are working and like u said u got that 30 amp fuz in line my guess is that the pump burnt out. Ford designed the volume of fuel to be determined by votage. Factory the pump runs at about 6v. If urs is hot wired its getting like 13+ volts.
Can also be wiring. The best thing is to get out the multimeter....and check everything. I went through exactly the same thing on my 92 F250 recently.
Couple things you can check the relay under driver seat or weak fuel pump
Anything to do with the fuel system that you touched, electrically, go over those first. Fine tooth comb. But do the easy stuff first, you know, relays, fuses, the easy stuff. You'll find it far more quickly doing it that way, imo.
As a multi-trade maintenance tech of 8 years, I can Garauntee the guy who thinks the problem is something huge the first time he hears of the problem, doesn't know what's wrong in the least bit. Not a dis at Craig at all. But in general, it's always something stupid simple and the crazy expensive stuff makes itself known quickly
Time for a carb swap!
the white plug under attatched to your steering column
I have a 1993 and it would crank and no start. And of course it liked starting fluid. But I ended up figure out that it was a ground on the fuel injector harness near the battery tray.
Are you going to paint the door trim on the stang ?
You did pullout the dash multiple times, check everything electrical making sure everything is where it needs to be and anything to do with the fuel system if tampered
My 03 explorer is doing the same damn thing, haven't got it looked at yet..
Had the same issue many years ago in my 89 5.0 LX. Only had 60,000 miles on it. Turned out to be a dirty throttle body.
Check your pins in your ECM plug and try another ecm that was my issue with my 87 I had a bad ECM
Try the electronic ignition box they are known to burn out on Ford's
I took my truck off the road for winter I didn't want to change out my 295s this summer I put insurance on it did some prep drove it one day next day on way to work I hit a big clump of dirt and rock in the road by state garage they dropped in the road it trashed one front 295 trashed my on fire electric fuel pump and it overheated and boiled over no connection just pure luck. It's parked the rest of the year... I love driving my hot rod truck...😟, My sn95 5.0 convertible has a leaky rear main so I have to keep it down a half a quart or leaks and clutch slips..fun fun for everyone!! Not the same issue as your 5.0 but few years ago a buddy had a 67 firebird with a 454 and he had a pete jackson gear drive timing set well he did not know he needed a special material keyway he got groceries backed in shut it off all's good in morning turned the key and crunch crunch, the keyway had snapped when he shut it off..annnnd bent valves... woohoo!
Does it have a pats system on it? That system has a chip on the key and if that isn’t giving signal the injectors won’t pulse. I had that issue on my Vic f100 swap
Check fuel pressure from your tank Auto Zone or Orielys has a free kit check it on the shrator value 😉
Also check the fusible links near starter solenoid.
I really hope you always leave the f100 carbureted
Keep the videos coming man! Glad to see the f100 back in videos🔥 BTW your this close 🤏 to 100k subs🤟
Merch drop when we hit it
@@Thecraig909 You deserve every bit of 100k subs. Keep up the grind man! 🤟🔥
on my 87 GT the 2 in. rubber hose between the fuel pump & the hanger rotted away and caused a no start for me.
Hey brother check your fuel pump. Once you turn ignition on you should hear the pump prime.
I had the same problem one time when I got my first mustang. I got a new fuel pump and tank. Spent like 300 bucks. Tried to start the car still didn't work. Bought a 2 dollar can of carburetor cleaner and sprayed the idle air controller. The car stared right up. Never had a problem since.
Isnt there a way to test fire each injector,i saw it somewhere on net using a cordless drill battery.anyhow i own a 2002wj and was putting new lifters in well the clips for injectors has flimsy stupid plastic lock clips.didnt i end up breaking almost all of them.so i zip tied them in place and now on occassion i have no start issues.i get out wiggle wires n plug,bam starts right up.!!!i bought replacement restomod wires n clips just havent got too it yet.prioritys im sure you know the issues!!!snooky pa.
I had this issue and it was a bad ground from my engine to firewall, wouldn’t let my injectors fire 🔥
how do you get the foxbody to pass smog here in CA?
Distributor just sized up solid and striped half of the teeth off, went to the junkyard and got another, and that was it for a long time,till the death rattle...
You're a new distributor has way too much vertical thrust I bought a Mallory for my big block bronco and it did not have that much vertical thrust and it kept shearing distributor gear pins keep an eye on that. Putting a new distributor in my big block fix the problem.
On my 91 camaro I had the same thing happen to me and it was my vats system was not reading my key had to get a resister and put it on the vats wires but idk if your mustang has that on it
So under your steering wheel there's a little box connected to your ignition or key switch part lol whatever you wanna call it! Make sure that pig tail is pulled in all the way the clip get weak. Just zip tie that together and it will fix it I promise!
50th like for the pickup
my 64 el camino chirps the tires in 2nd gear I have a TH400 with a shift kit
Check the parts in your distributor, module
What size rim and tires do you have on back of those bullet 20in deep dish 5 lug I've been a 90 Fox body GT 25th anniversary and it's already been 5 lug swap. And I want to put on some good looking big rims I like those what are those
I would check the wiring and if all is good then check relays
This video is the story of my life
Check fuel Schrader valve if there is fuel pressure
Wide open throttle sensor. It located on the passenger side in front of your strut tower.
Sad Day☹️
ignition control mod?
Assuming everything is mechanically ok, a non computer vehicle, like that F100, will ALWAYS be more reliable than a computer vehicle like that Foxbody. Not only that, but if something does go wrong with a non mechanical part (and by that I mean anything electrical or electronic) It will ALWAYS be a lot easier to both find and fix the problem with the non computer vehicle. I have the experience and knowledge to back that up. I am a recently retired (I retired at age 62, partly because I was financially able to, but mostly because of the garbage I was having to work on) auto, truck, and heavy equipment mechanic. I worked for a large municipal fleet services department for more than 40 years. I had to work on that computer garbage. It was not fun, and it was not easy, even for a highly experienced highly trained mechanic/technician. Opposite to that, my main hobby is VINTAGE, pre emissions cars and trucks. I have been a hot rodder and drag racer since before I was even old enough to get a drivers license. Vintage vehicles are at least TEN TIMES easier to work on than computer vehicles, EVEN if you have the thousands of dollars worth of commercial diagnostic equipment designed for computer vehicles. If you want to see just how easy vintage vehicles are to work on, watch Uncle Tony's Garage channel for a while. I am basically a clone of this guy, other than having to work on computer vehicles for a living.
If you want a Mustang, do yourself a HUGE favor and get a 1973 or older Mustang. I have experience there too. I own a 1967 Mustang coupe with a slightly hot rodded 289 and a four speed. I have owned it for almost 18 years, and know it inside, outside, and upside down. I built the engine. I've actually built two engines for it. I have raced it, but quit because I didn't want to crash it on the track. I am now racing a 1964 Fairlane 4 door. No huge loss if I should hit the wall with that.
Ignition control module
Well I guess it was the old fuel pump
Hmm looks like it's turning into a parts cannon?
Funny…dissing the Foxbody. I love the Truck
Hate wiring issues, my sympathies. I am thinking bad ground to the fuel injectors.
Injectors aren't grounded. They have power all the time, the PCM supplies the ground to fire them. Same for nearly everything controlled by the PCM.
Sees stack of OBDI codes: Laughs in CARB referee......