UPDATE: 1/30/2023, I'm still using this parts washer and have made no further modifications. It works extremally well and I am very happy with the design. All the parts used in the video I am still using, I am also on my 2nd filter but it is ready to change again. With my usage, I seem to change the fluid and filter about once a year.
Is your shop heated? I was wondering about water based solvent freezing in my shop in the winter. Maybe get a metal 5 gallon bucket and a magnetic heater??
I'm glad someone else saw that a filter after the pump was useless. At least all the oil they wash off parts will be clean before it goes back into the cabinet.
The very best build I've seen, perfect for the water based solvent I prefer to use. I use the simple green heavy duty, works the best from what I've tried. Really appreciate the video, it helped out a lot. Did my build similar to yours, but I took it a step farther. I added a custom made mobile base, and removed all of the inside brackets and the lid hinge (I just rest the lid back against something). I also waterproofed the inside tub and lid with a few pints of Flex-Seal! It's working awesome, thanks again for the idea!
Made in the Ding Dow Parts Washer factory. We always joke about all the similar (but custom labeled-painted) tools. That tool was made in the Ding Dow (fill in the blank, Tool Box, Sand Blast Cabinet, Grinder, Floor Jack) factory. I made a heated parts washer 30 years ago from a stainless sink and 30 gal barrel. Amazing how much better the heated solvent works.
The reason to put the filter after the pump is because pumps can make a higher pressure than suction. The maximum theoretical vacuum a pump can make is 15 psi (1atm) but a typical pump won't pull more than 3 or 4 psi. As the filter is a restriction, it needs a difference in pressure for the fluid to flow. If it is situated after the pump it won't matter if it is slightly clogged and needs like 10 psi to sustain the desired flow, but if it is before the pump it will hinder the flow severely. If your setup doesn't work or stops working as soon as the filter catches a little dirt, you can try moving the pump and adding a coarse pre filter so that big stuff won't break it
This is probably one of the most well thought out parts washer mod videos if seen! Thing's I'll definitely consider doing as I get my shop put together.
Frickin genius man. Thanks for the great ideas! Got the wheels turning, and since I just recycled the fluid in mine and cleaned it, I’m ready to make improvements. I don’t know if you noticed, but when I heated my fluid, it caused condensation on the lid which when opened it ran to the piano hinge on the back. To combat this so it doesn’t squeak or get rusty, I am going to install a flap to divert it.
Solid improvements- just picked up a pneumatic parts washer- whole different ball game but my regular washer will probably start looking a lot like this one. Thanks!
Wow. Excellent video. I watch way too many UA-cam videos and this one impressed me. Complete, succinct and creative solutions. Love it! This is now my goal... I do have some Menards rebates burning a hole in my pocket and a project car on jack stands in the garage.
Solvent tanks save so much money in brake-cleaner alone. Just a quick rinse with brake-cleaner after thorough wash! Also, I bought the wrong oil filter for my truck, so I drilled holes in the side and ran solvent through the center with a funnel and doesn't do too bad of a job cleaning the fluid.
Nice video thanks for sharing,, My only thought was how long before that filter plugs up,,if you clean transmission parts like me it would get clogged fast,, I would try to add magnets to the drain,,maybe in a sock to prefilter it and catch the big stuff,, Also keep the pick up off the bottom so it doesnt suck up any crud from down there.
The manufacturer I work for has one of these and I had never used it before. I was told to clean off the greasey carriers, My arms were vibrating before I read the warning label right in front of me. Safe to say, my skin is still itching on my stomach where I got splashed
The filter should be on the pressure side of the pump, a typical pump may have a suction screen but never a filter. I have found that the best way to prefilter the solvent is to put a air filter from a backhoe or a piece of cat equipment inside the reservoir under the return from the tail pipe coming into the top of the bucket and all the large debris will stay inside that filter and then filter after the pump as a secondary filter. That will keep the solvent clean. I love the heater idea. don't think I can use that with solvent though. Might use the heat wrap around the reservoir though. I never had any luck with water base solvents, maybe a steam cleaner. Thanks for the video, some very good ideas. I may use one of these pumps on my bandsaw as a coolant/lube pump. That is a lot cheaper than the ones they typically use.
Hi Thanks for the comment! I personally have also had better luck with "non" water based solvents. I've tried a lot of water based solvents and so far oil eater seems to be one of the better ones, but again non water based solvents do a far superior job, at least with my experience. Unfortunately I have some health reasons that prevent me from using harsh chemicals, so oil eater it is until I find something better. :D Regarding the filter, a few others have also made similar comments. I always figured if it became an issue I'd have to change it up a bit! It's been a few years and it seems to be holding up rather well considering how much I use it. Thanks again for the comments and idea!
@@1D10CRACY It may sound silly but have you tried using plain Tide powder? It works very well, is pretty eco/health friendly, and very cheap. If you try it, might also want to add a little Borax as it will keep it from forming bacterial growth, and inhibit rust. I learned the borax trick from the CNC plasma guys who use it to keep their water tables from getting funky. The other consideration of having your filter before the pump is that it can significantly negatively impact the flow rate of the pump. Drawing against restriction can cause cavitation within the intake of the pump which not only lowers performance in the moment but depending on pump design can result on additional wear to critical pump surfaces which will further degrade perfomance over time. I found your video looking for heater ideas. Ill look into what youre using. Thank you for the vid.
what did you connect the "bond" wire (spa guts) too? I would look forward to sharing my build - albeit - some mods based on your configuration - - the bond connection seems a bit,,, ?? #kindnees (thank you)
I'm not sure what "bond" wire means. I would follow the instructions and make sure you ground it and the cabinet for safety. I also would make sure you are using a GFCI circuit for safety. The video was not meant to be a how to, it was just meant to stimulate ideas. :D
Hey i am following youe vid to build a very similar setup, i was wondering what your solution was for the fittings in and out of the filter housing? It says 3/4 NPT and the hose barbs on the pump are 10mm, i cant find any 3/4 npt to 10mm barbs, did you reducd from 3/4-3/8 and then 10mm?
It's bonded inside the switchbox. The cabinet is also bonded. But I would suggest getting a professional opinion on the correct and safe way to wire it, as I am not a professional.
If you drain the fluid then how can you leave in the parts to soak. Especially with the heater that would be desirable to have parts submerged to soak. Other than that the mods are great.
I'm not enthusiastic about the non-water tight electrical enclosure you've chosen. With the solution being pumped, sprayed and brushed in the tank above, it is very possible to have it drip down the side of the tub and into the electrical box. PVC based, outdoor rated components would have been a better solution. Be very sure to plug this into a GFCI protected circuit.
For sure some better care should be considered when doing the electrical! Keep in mind the video was never intended to be a "how to", but to stimulate ideas. Maybe some day I will try to make mine a bit safer. ;)
You went all out but forgot one thing... Compressed air! Adding an air inlet and a short (10"-ish) hose that you can direct where you want it now gives you a filtered, heated, *agitated* solvent which is great for soaking parts or cleaning in deep recesses/ports. 😊
Looks the part but how well does it work? What temp is the fluid? Is the heater worth it? Any chance of a vid washing parts so we can see if it's right for us? Thanks
It actually works really well. Not sure I would change anything. The warmer fluid does make a big difference especially with caked on engine sludge. I believe the heater shuts down at 110f degrees. I'm sure futures videos will show it in action.
another good video ! i’ve been saying for years i should get one of those washers yet i’ve always wondered if it would warrant the space inthe shop ? perhaps it will especially with the upgrades you did
1D10CRACY: great video, thanks! Quick question: I thought the solvent should be filtered first, also; but my question is: Is there any fatigue or extra effort on the part of the pump to draw the solvent through with the resistance that the filter (probably) adds? That was my only real concern, because I've had a couple pumps go out on me, one lasted a solid 10 years, but the latest one failed in 2.5 years, so didn't know what your results were. Thanks again for the vid. Wow man, you've made a very good set up!!!
There maybe some extra resistance and I am not sure if it will impact how long the pump will last or not. So far everything has exceeded my expectations and it works very well.
How much did all this cost you ? I see they want 135 for the heater. When I moved 14 years ago, I gave my parts washer (kerosene solvent) away...nasty, smelly, dirty....this is definitely a significant improvement.
I got lucky on the heater, Menards had them for $169.00, but they had a rebate for $169.00 making it free. Of course there is the catch that the rebate has to be used at Menards, but it is full cash value. Most everything else is fairly cheap and can be found in any hardware store. I listed some of the items I used in the description. Oil eater is fairly cheap too. Oil Eater recommends 3 parts water to 1 part Oil Eater for a parts washer. I just dumped one full gallon in the bucket and filled the rest with water, seems to be plenty strong and I've been using the same fluid since this video was posted. Not sure I would change anything, as its been working really well.
Yeah, extremely. He spent all this time building it and filming/editing this video to show the world how to build a WOMD! LOL, stay on the couch dumbass
Okay, I must say that this video is well-produced and edited, however, it also may cause many viewers to spend several hundred dollars unnecessarily in an attempt to copy the end results. The parts washer can be purchased brand new from HF for $59.00 plus tax, albeit, if you wait for a sale paper, you can get an extra $5 - 10.00 discount. The fact being, this washer is made of cheap metal with no base coating, only a thin single coat of paint and a cheap solvent pump. All of which means that the washer is not designed to last for any length of time, so why add another $2 - 300.00 dollars of unneeded parts to a $60.00 washer ??? Answer: The need to add a filter and a solvent heater is totally without merit for a washer of this size and of such cheap production. First, it comes with its own installed filter, yes the filter requires constant cleaning and replacing, but it will do the same job as the one which is being added to the washer in this video. Second, there is no reason for adding an expensive heater, inasmuch as the solvent cannot be heated to the high temperature of expensive/industrial washers that come equipped with a heater. With expensive washers, the heated solvent is pumped through many automatic discharge nozzles, not through a handheld single nozzle which would burn the holder at any temperature high enough to make a difference in appreciable cleaning ability. Third, there is no reason to add a solvent holding bucket, plus a solvent pump and all the plumbing that is required, since the tub of this washer has its own solvent drain ??? All that is needed is to add some kind of strainer or straining material to the bucket to catch the dirt and raw material as it pours into the bucket from the tub's drain, which can then be manually returned/poured back into the tub. Fourth, what kind of parts washing are you planning on doing, will it be daily or occasionally, will it be of large engine parts/casings or small hand size parts, will the cleaning actually require the solvent to be heated or just applied by a nozzle and lightly scrubbed with a solvent brush, will the washer be expected to last a lifetime or just as a shop assistant when needed, taking into account the actual number of times that it will be used in your shop. My suggestion, if you are going to buy a cheap parts washer, so be, that is what you want and that is what you need, but don't attempt to upgrade that which was never intended to be upgraded. If you want a parts washer which heats the solvent and does a better job of filtering the debris washed from the parts, then buy an industrial washer instead and forgo all the extra parts buying and associated problems that will come with the mismatched conglomerate of plumbing as is done in this video. (i.e.) clogging, leaking, drawing a vacuum, etc. One old man's opinion who owned a similar parts washer (same washer, different name brand) in my small engine repair shop on a daily basis for 5 years without any problems whatsoever. Once a month I would change the filter, every 2-3 months I would clean/strain the solvent and return the cleaned solvent to the tub, I also changed/replaced the solvent with new solvent once a year.
I really appreciate the time you took to write this up and it is full of good comments. I do want to make mention of a few things, just to think about. The cabinet in the video is actually a bit over 20 years now, it was given to me by a family member who use to race. Albeit it cheap, it has actually lasted a very long time and has been well used. I just wish the one side hadn't faded from red to pink. ;) I've been using oil eater as a solvent for a while now, but I got the idea of heating while doing some wiring in a vocational school. They had a professional grade oil eater cabinet that was heated, but it didn't burn your hands. During one black Friday sale I found the heater was free, with the rebate. The heater is the most expensive part of the build, everything else can be found pretty cheap if you shop around. I'll also add oil eater cuts a whole lot better when heated to 110 degrees, there has been many times I tried to clean a part without heating the solution only to find I ended up turning on the heater on and was happy with the end results. The bucket ended up being an awesome idea, as changing the fluid is super easy, though with the large filter, I've only changed it once and not really sure it needed changed. When I need to soak parts, I just put the part in container and fill it. As for the filter, well, it was my attempt to keep debris from flowing through the weak point of the system, the inexpensive pump. I was originally worried about creating a vacuum and other people have pointed out solutions. However at this point in time, I have had zero issues with a vacuum being created. Also I've never had a leak, knock on wood. I guess my bottom line is you pointed out very good points about this build, some good, and some I disagree with. Using one of these cheap parts washers as intended will work just fine. That being said after spending time with the modifications, I can honestly say I would change nothing. It has turned out to be one of the most used and appreciated items in my shop. The whole point of the video was to really stimulate ideas for other people. Not everyone is going to use oil eater as a solvent and may never have the need to heat it up. You can find tons of videos about people modifying these cabinets on youtube, this is just what I did, and for me, its been great. Oil eater is a water based solvent, it doesn't cut nearly as good a kerosene, but it does ok and better when warm. I use it for personal health concerns and it doesn't smell as bad, not that I personally am bothered by smells.
@@1D10CRACY As I said, you made a very good video, so much so, that I noted several posted comments where your video had inspired others to follow what you have done. I also felt that you were so satisfied with the changes which you had made to an old worn-out washer, that you wanted to pass what you had been able to accomplish on to others. As such, I felt compelled to make the firsthand points that I felt were necessary for those inspired viewers in order that they would be able to make a more intelligent decision with practical knowledge from a different point of view. My intention was not meant to denigrate your rebuild in any way.
UPDATE: 1/30/2023, I'm still using this parts washer and have made no further modifications. It works extremally well and I am very happy with the design. All the parts used in the video I am still using, I am also on my 2nd filter but it is ready to change again. With my usage, I seem to change the fluid and filter about once a year.
Is your shop heated? I was wondering about water based solvent freezing in my shop in the winter. Maybe get a metal 5 gallon bucket and a magnetic heater??
@@MagaRickn The shop is heated, I suspect the water based oil eater will freeze if allowed to.
Finally, a well thought out parts washer build! Thanks so much for the update, which really shows proof of concept. 👍🔧
Great video! Can I ask what dilution ratio you’re using?
I'm glad someone else saw that a filter after the pump was useless. At least all the oil they wash off parts will be clean before it goes back into the cabinet.
The very best build I've seen, perfect for the water based solvent I prefer to use. I use the simple green heavy duty, works the best from what I've tried. Really appreciate the video, it helped out a lot. Did my build similar to yours, but I took it a step farther. I added a custom made mobile base, and removed all of the inside brackets and the lid hinge (I just rest the lid back against something). I also waterproofed the inside tub and lid with a few pints of Flex-Seal! It's working awesome, thanks again for the idea!
Made in the Ding Dow Parts Washer factory. We always joke about all the similar (but custom labeled-painted) tools.
That tool was made in the Ding Dow (fill in the blank, Tool Box, Sand Blast Cabinet, Grinder, Floor Jack) factory.
I made a heated parts washer 30 years ago from a stainless sink and 30 gal barrel. Amazing how much better the heated solvent works.
Every time I need to clean up a grimy engine case I always say I need a parts washer. This is fantastic.
I'm actually very pleased with the way it turned out! Not sure I would change a thing.
Bravo absolutely the best take on a heated parts washer anywhere on you tube or the internet.
The reason to put the filter after the pump is because pumps can make a higher pressure than suction. The maximum theoretical vacuum a pump can make is 15 psi (1atm) but a typical pump won't pull more than 3 or 4 psi.
As the filter is a restriction, it needs a difference in pressure for the fluid to flow. If it is situated after the pump it won't matter if it is slightly clogged and needs like 10 psi to sustain the desired flow, but if it is before the pump it will hinder the flow severely.
If your setup doesn't work or stops working as soon as the filter catches a little dirt, you can try moving the pump and adding a coarse pre filter so that big stuff won't break it
After does help with flow characteristics and longer pump life. But it certainly doesn't help filter and junk before it enters the pump
Only a dumb A$$ would put the filter after the pump!
This is probably one of the most well thought out parts washer mod videos if seen! Thing's I'll definitely consider doing as I get my shop put together.
Thanks! I've used it a lot since I put it all together and it seems to be holding up rather well! Not sure what I'd change if anything.
Frickin genius man. Thanks for the great ideas! Got the wheels turning, and since I just recycled the fluid in mine and cleaned it, I’m ready to make improvements. I don’t know if you noticed, but when I heated my fluid, it caused condensation on the lid which when opened it ran to the piano hinge on the back. To combat this so it doesn’t squeak or get rusty, I am going to install a flap to divert it.
Very nice idea with the air compressor fittings! 👌 I will be modifying my parts washer in the near future
I just wanted to say I watched an Elizabeth Warren commercial in its entirety just so you got paid a few cents. It was painful but your video was not.
Yikes! That means I'm making money from political ads! That has to be bad karma of some kind!
Solid improvements- just picked up a pneumatic parts washer- whole different ball game but my regular washer will probably start looking a lot like this one. Thanks!
My solution to adding heat was a NOS 1500 Watt diesel block heater. Found it on fleaBay for $20.00.
Wow. Excellent video. I watch way too many UA-cam videos and this one impressed me. Complete, succinct and creative solutions. Love it! This is now my goal... I do have some Menards rebates burning a hole in my pocket and a project car on jack stands in the garage.
Quick release on tool is great idea. Thanks for sharing! : )
Solvent tanks save so much money in brake-cleaner alone. Just a quick rinse with brake-cleaner after thorough wash!
Also, I bought the wrong oil filter for my truck, so I drilled holes in the side and ran solvent through the center with a funnel and doesn't do too bad of a job cleaning the fluid.
Nice video thanks for sharing,,
My only thought was how long before that filter plugs up,,if you clean transmission parts like me it would get clogged fast,,
I would try to add magnets to the drain,,maybe in a sock to prefilter it and catch the big stuff,,
Also keep the pick up off the bottom so it doesnt suck up any crud from down there.
Might not be a bad option! I've changed the filter on mine twice since I've done this video.
The manufacturer I work for has one of these and I had never used it before. I was told to clean off the greasey carriers, My arms were vibrating before I read the warning label right in front of me. Safe to say, my skin is still itching on my stomach where I got splashed
Moving to Texas I miss Menards
Great build! I'm wondering if that pump can handle petroleum based solvents? any idea?
The filter should be on the pressure side of the pump, a typical pump may have a suction screen but never a filter. I have found that the best way to prefilter the solvent is to put a air filter from a backhoe or a piece of cat equipment inside the reservoir under the return from the tail pipe coming into the top of the bucket and all the large debris will stay inside that filter and then filter after the pump as a secondary filter. That will keep the solvent clean. I love the heater idea. don't think I can use that with solvent though. Might use the heat wrap around the reservoir though. I never had any luck with water base solvents, maybe a steam cleaner. Thanks for the video, some very good ideas. I may use one of these pumps on my bandsaw as a coolant/lube pump. That is a lot cheaper than the ones they typically use.
Hi Thanks for the comment! I personally have also had better luck with "non" water based solvents. I've tried a lot of water based solvents and so far oil eater seems to be one of the better ones, but again non water based solvents do a far superior job, at least with my experience. Unfortunately I have some health reasons that prevent me from using harsh chemicals, so oil eater it is until I find something better. :D Regarding the filter, a few others have also made similar comments. I always figured if it became an issue I'd have to change it up a bit! It's been a few years and it seems to be holding up rather well considering how much I use it. Thanks again for the comments and idea!
@@1D10CRACY It may sound silly but have you tried using plain Tide powder? It works very well, is pretty eco/health friendly, and very cheap. If you try it, might also want to add a little Borax as it will keep it from forming bacterial growth, and inhibit rust. I learned the borax trick from the CNC plasma guys who use it to keep their water tables from getting funky.
The other consideration of having your filter before the pump is that it can significantly negatively impact the flow rate of the pump. Drawing against restriction can cause cavitation within the intake of the pump which not only lowers performance in the moment but depending on pump design can result on additional wear to critical pump surfaces which will further degrade perfomance over time.
I found your video looking for heater ideas. Ill look into what youre using. Thank you for the vid.
Project Farm tested degreasers and Super Clean and Zep orange were at the top.
Great job. well engineered design using commodity parts.
Nicely done. Seems very effective and well shown. Thanks for sharing. will you demo the function at some point?
Dang that’s actually really smart thanks bro I’m gonna make me one of them ! Keep doing what your doing .
What type of filter media did you use?
what did you connect the "bond" wire (spa guts) too? I would look forward to sharing my build - albeit - some mods based on your configuration - - the bond connection seems a bit,,, ?? #kindnees (thank you)
I'm not sure what "bond" wire means. I would follow the instructions and make sure you ground it and the cabinet for safety. I also would make sure you are using a GFCI circuit for safety. The video was not meant to be a how to, it was just meant to stimulate ideas. :D
Hey i am following youe vid to build a very similar setup, i was wondering what your solution was for the fittings in and out of the filter housing? It says 3/4 NPT and the hose barbs on the pump are 10mm, i cant find any 3/4 npt to 10mm barbs, did you reducd from 3/4-3/8 and then 10mm?
The other option that I would choose is to raise the parts washer about a foot. It’s way too low,kills my back
Where do u have the heater bonded to? Somewhere on the washer or to ground in your switch box?
It's bonded inside the switchbox. The cabinet is also bonded. But I would suggest getting a professional opinion on the correct and safe way to wire it, as I am not a professional.
If you drain the fluid then how can you leave in the parts to soak. Especially with the heater that would be desirable to have parts submerged to soak. Other than that the mods are great.
I typically don't soak my parts, but if that is something you did, it wouldn't be a big deal to add some sort of drain stopper.
Nice work, thanks for sharing
I'm not enthusiastic about the non-water tight electrical enclosure you've chosen. With the solution being pumped, sprayed and brushed in the tank above, it is very possible to have it drip down the side of the tub and into the electrical box. PVC based, outdoor rated components would have been a better solution. Be very sure to plug this into a GFCI protected circuit.
For sure some better care should be considered when doing the electrical! Keep in mind the video was never intended to be a "how to", but to stimulate ideas. Maybe some day I will try to make mine a bit safer. ;)
Nice build! From a cold start how long does it take for the fluid to get to a good heat level? And how hot does it get?
You can feel heat immediately, but it is warm to the touch after about 15 mins.
You went all out but forgot one thing...
Compressed air! Adding an air inlet and a short (10"-ish) hose that you can direct where you want it now gives you a filtered, heated, *agitated* solvent which is great for soaking parts or cleaning in deep recesses/ports. 😊
Cool transformation!
Looks the part but how well does it work? What temp is the fluid? Is the heater worth it? Any chance of a vid washing parts so we can see if it's right for us? Thanks
It actually works really well. Not sure I would change anything. The warmer fluid does make a big difference especially with caked on engine sludge. I believe the heater shuts down at 110f degrees. I'm sure futures videos will show it in action.
Massive downside here is you can't submerge parts for soaking any longer. I suppose you could fashion drain plugs for your two drains, though.
I just use a plastic tub when I need to soak parts.
How hot is it and can you adjust the heat?
About 100f and no, it's not adjustable.
A lot of great ideas here! Thanks. :)
another good video ! i’ve been saying for years i should get one of those washers yet i’ve always wondered if it would warrant the space inthe shop ? perhaps it will especially with the upgrades you did
How long does it take to heat up?
You can feel a temperature change instantly when turning on the heater. But it takes about 10 minutes before it is warm enough to be really effective.
Awesome videos!
Any idea why my spa heater wont come on?
Wow kick ass man just found your videos deffently sub. Can't wait to see wats in up next.
1D10CRACY: great video, thanks! Quick question: I thought the solvent should be filtered first, also; but my question is: Is there any fatigue or extra effort on the part of the pump to draw the solvent through with the resistance that the filter (probably) adds? That was my only real concern, because I've had a couple pumps go out on me, one lasted a solid 10 years, but the latest one failed in 2.5 years, so didn't know what your results were. Thanks again for the vid. Wow man, you've made a very good set up!!!
There maybe some extra resistance and I am not sure if it will impact how long the pump will last or not. So far everything has exceeded my expectations and it works very well.
How much did all this cost you ? I see they want 135 for the heater. When I moved 14 years ago, I gave my parts washer (kerosene solvent) away...nasty, smelly, dirty....this is definitely a significant improvement.
I got lucky on the heater, Menards had them for $169.00, but they had a rebate for $169.00 making it free. Of course there is the catch that the rebate has to be used at Menards, but it is full cash value. Most everything else is fairly cheap and can be found in any hardware store. I listed some of the items I used in the description. Oil eater is fairly cheap too. Oil Eater recommends 3 parts water to 1 part Oil Eater for a parts washer. I just dumped one full gallon in the bucket and filled the rest with water, seems to be plenty strong and I've been using the same fluid since this video was posted. Not sure I would change anything, as its been working really well.
Lol I thought the same with the filter 😅 🤣 why put it after the pump that makes no damn sense
Brilliant
That spa heater is $275 so I'm gonna save big and plumb a line out of my existing hot tub over to the parts washer.
I love your setup. don't mind if I copy your ideas.
Man..... Great ideas...
So how warm does it get?
I believe the heater shuts down at 110f degrees.
Omg I NEED this
Just a reminder to everyone, "It's JUST a parts washer" lol
Nice!
is it dangerous? to use?
Yeah, extremely.
He spent all this time building it and filming/editing this video to show the world how to build a WOMD!
LOL, stay on the couch dumbass
You talk like Ted Koppel did in 1984
Asuh dude?
Okay, I must say that this video is well-produced and edited, however, it also may cause many viewers to spend several hundred dollars unnecessarily in an attempt to copy the end results. The parts washer can be purchased brand new from HF for $59.00 plus tax, albeit, if you wait for a sale paper, you can get an extra $5 - 10.00 discount. The fact being, this washer is made of cheap metal with no base coating, only a thin single coat of paint and a cheap solvent pump. All of which means that the washer is not designed to last for any length of time, so why add another $2 - 300.00 dollars of unneeded parts to a $60.00 washer ??? Answer: The need to add a filter and a solvent heater is totally without merit for a washer of this size and of such cheap production.
First, it comes with its own installed filter, yes the filter requires constant cleaning and replacing, but it will do the same job as the one which is being added to the washer in this video. Second, there is no reason for adding an expensive heater, inasmuch as the solvent cannot be heated to the high temperature of expensive/industrial washers that come equipped with a heater. With expensive washers, the heated solvent is pumped through many automatic discharge nozzles, not through a handheld single nozzle which would burn the holder at any temperature high enough to make a difference in appreciable cleaning ability. Third, there is no reason to add a solvent holding bucket, plus a solvent pump and all the plumbing that is required, since the tub of this washer has its own solvent drain ??? All that is needed is to add some kind of strainer or straining material to the bucket to catch the dirt and raw material as it pours into the bucket from the tub's drain, which can then be manually returned/poured back into the tub. Fourth, what kind of parts washing are you planning on doing, will it be daily or occasionally, will it be of large engine parts/casings or small hand size parts, will the cleaning actually require the solvent to be heated or just applied by a nozzle and lightly scrubbed with a solvent brush, will the washer be expected to last a lifetime or just as a shop assistant when needed, taking into account the actual number of times that it will be used in your shop.
My suggestion, if you are going to buy a cheap parts washer, so be, that is what you want and that is what you need, but don't attempt to upgrade that which was never intended to be upgraded. If you want a parts washer which heats the solvent and does a better job of filtering the debris washed from the parts, then buy an industrial washer instead and forgo all the extra parts buying and associated problems that will come with the mismatched conglomerate of plumbing as is done in this video. (i.e.) clogging, leaking, drawing a vacuum, etc.
One old man's opinion who owned a similar parts washer (same washer, different name brand) in my small engine repair shop on a daily basis for 5 years without any problems whatsoever. Once a month I would change the filter, every 2-3 months I would clean/strain the solvent and return the cleaned solvent to the tub, I also changed/replaced the solvent with new solvent once a year.
I really appreciate the time you took to write this up and it is full of good comments. I do want to make mention of a few things, just to think about. The cabinet in the video is actually a bit over 20 years now, it was given to me by a family member who use to race. Albeit it cheap, it has actually lasted a very long time and has been well used. I just wish the one side hadn't faded from red to pink. ;) I've been using oil eater as a solvent for a while now, but I got the idea of heating while doing some wiring in a vocational school. They had a professional grade oil eater cabinet that was heated, but it didn't burn your hands. During one black Friday sale I found the heater was free, with the rebate. The heater is the most expensive part of the build, everything else can be found pretty cheap if you shop around. I'll also add oil eater cuts a whole lot better when heated to 110 degrees, there has been many times I tried to clean a part without heating the solution only to find I ended up turning on the heater on and was happy with the end results. The bucket ended up being an awesome idea, as changing the fluid is super easy, though with the large filter, I've only changed it once and not really sure it needed changed. When I need to soak parts, I just put the part in container and fill it. As for the filter, well, it was my attempt to keep debris from flowing through the weak point of the system, the inexpensive pump. I was originally worried about creating a vacuum and other people have pointed out solutions. However at this point in time, I have had zero issues with a vacuum being created. Also I've never had a leak, knock on wood.
I guess my bottom line is you pointed out very good points about this build, some good, and some I disagree with. Using one of these cheap parts washers as intended will work just fine. That being said after spending time with the modifications, I can honestly say I would change nothing. It has turned out to be one of the most used and appreciated items in my shop. The whole point of the video was to really stimulate ideas for other people. Not everyone is going to use oil eater as a solvent and may never have the need to heat it up. You can find tons of videos about people modifying these cabinets on youtube, this is just what I did, and for me, its been great.
Oil eater is a water based solvent, it doesn't cut nearly as good a kerosene, but it does ok and better when warm. I use it for personal health concerns and it doesn't smell as bad, not that I personally am bothered by smells.
@@1D10CRACY As I said, you made a very good video, so much so, that I noted several posted comments where your video had inspired others to follow what you have done. I also felt that you were so satisfied with the changes which you had made to an old worn-out washer, that you wanted to pass what you had been able to accomplish on to others. As such, I felt compelled to make the firsthand points that I felt were necessary for those inspired viewers in order that they would be able to make a more intelligent decision with practical knowledge from a different point of view. My intention was not meant to denigrate your rebuild in any way.
The Shadow needs to focus on his golf (or bingo) instead of these videos.
Overkill... Just wash the parts close the lid repeat.
Overkill indeed! And if I had the chance, I'd do it all over again! It has become the best parts washer I've ever used!
Jo, Overkill is underrated
LMFAO....ridiculous!
And sadly, if given the chance to do it again I would! I use it all the time!!! Probably one of the better parts washers I've ever used!
@@1D10CRACY A water based solvent would destroy the filter media in that setup...
@@LOCALOUTLAW1 You sure? It's a filter designed for water. LOL. I'm on the 2nd filter since I built it, seems to be holding out pretty well!
@@1D10CRACY Guess I'm wrong...LOL...thanks for your build video though...it gave me some great ideas!
good idea with a duct water heater !