3 Must have Modifications for your harbor freight sand / media blasting cabinet! Upgrades!
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
- amzn.to/2WtwdCu - Metering Valve (Cheaper to build your own!)
amzn.to/2RWNKUG - Bucket Lid Shop Vac
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NEVER use SAND- use glass bead or other media: Sand breaks down, and puts a very fine dust which can give you silicosis... Which can be deadly... Read the manual for more info
This is exactly why I don't use sand. BTW, I'm using coal slag. I believe it's Black Diamond brand, fine grade, I buy it at Tractor Supply Center (TSC). I'm going to pin your comment to the top so other people can read it. Thanks!
what about walnuts shells?
@@ernielucas6544 wallnut shells are perfectly safe. Unless your or someone in your household is allergic to wallnuts.
because sand contain silica but those diseases and cancers developed on people who worked fulltime in complete sand dust environment their entire life, most people using those "cheap" cabinet just use it as a hobby for a few hours here and there so there should not be any problem using sand.
But yes it's better to be aware of the problem and avoid sand or when using sand, wear a good mask, have a properly sealed cabinet with a vacum.
@@1D10CRACY But but but.... in the video you were using sand. /facepalm
The bottom thing works like a charm, tnx !!! Very little sanding material needed indeed, so one can refill only small amounts and have maximum results, splendid idea.
Great video! First person to explain how it works with the modifications! That is a good point about the negative pressure, so many complain about leaks. Excellent to know you can use way less media. Thanks Bro!
Awesome. Reasonableness is in short supply these days. Refreshing to see some. Thanks.
Great video, thanks! I bought a used HF blast cabinet and you saved me the time caulking it. Previous owner also made a metering valve out of 1/2 inch pipe fittings, It was plugged solid because it was too small. The tip to only use a small amount of media is gold.
That air drying system is amazing, thanks for sharing!!! it is very difficult to find a good solution online!!!!!
great vid wish everyone took time to explain like you
My upgrades on my old HF cabinet. Skat blast gun and pickup tube kit. LED sealed tube fish tank light that runs all the way across the inside of the tank (works awesome). Water separator in the front where i plug the air hose in. A $2 yard sale shop-vac with an extension hose running to the back of my property. I use soda media instead of sand. Sand shatters into a fine glass mist. Not good. Even with my respirator. I cut an old window screen to place inside the tank to catch anything big that may have fell off or bolts ive dropped. I use mine outside because it never fails to get some sort of dust everywhere. Finally i run a floor fan blowing on me that pushes away any dust and keeps me cool in the summer months. The most expensive item was the gun and pickup tube kit. The rest was super cheap or free. Ive used this setup for years and blast mostly old car parts etc that I sell or use. These tanks are perfectly fine to use. A large compressor is a must!
I am absolutely doing that bottom thing. Thank you!
I did it and it works awesome.
Nice mods really ankering for a shot blast cabinet for things I do ,thanks for. Showing us Ant from Wales UK .
Thank u. I need one for renovation. And this will help
I have the same cabinet. my mods were to throw the suction system in the bin and use a small pressure pot made from a modified steel 2kg Co2 cylinder which i made myself with boron nozzle. Then using lengths of upright pipe made myself a air drying system moisture remover. I then binned the large Perspex viewing screen which is a consumable and expensive when frosted up and made a smaller one 1/4 size and use green house glass as a replacement taped to the Perspex screen as glass is less prone to frosting than plastic. Then i threw out the crap lighting system for a 20watt led sealed light which lit up the inside using the old switch system. I use a Henry hover vac at the back vent which removes the find dust with the heavier media dropping to the base of the cabinet hopper. I also made a dolly out of angle iron with industrial swivel locking castors so i can move the cabinet around the workshop and out of the way is i need to clean as pulling the cabinet on its four tin legs is a real pain grating on the concrete floor. Being about four inches higher on the dolly i made a short platform. And now it runs for hours without any stoppages. Another tip is to put a fan blower facing the cylinder head on the compressor as continue running of a 14cmf compressor can get very hot. Using it it cools it all the time.
Just to let everyone know I too was having water problems in my air. I didn't need the cooler because I had my compressor up in the attic of my garage and a very long pipe to my drier. Now the secret drier it works great it is a filter by wix filters company. I have two different sizes but I think that I don't need the smaller one you have to buy the housing for the filters to screw on to. The small ones p/n is AC15 and the larger one is AC20. I think that they also make a AC30. They are very reasonable in price the AC20 is about 22.00 dollars to replace I replace mine about once a year and I have had zero water problems. Of course if you use alot of air you might want to replace the filter more often that is something you would have to find out. I buy my filters from napa auto parts, but if you do a good old inter-web search you might find it elsewhere. Just thought I'd put my 2 cents worth in.
Thanks so much for the video help me out tremendously
Great job! I've been working on how to design an adjustable metering valve with sufficient airflow, and you just used a ball valve. Brilliant. :-)
Thank you for the video!
Brilliant video and the modifications have made this cabinet (as we can see 100 times better) great job, but personally after looking at videos on UA-cam and seeing one similar close up with glass bead with 80 - 240 grit coming out of the door seal and through every nook and cranny ( it was the problems my nephew was having to put up with after purchasing it) I said to him “ I can build one better than that for less than half the price - and that’s what I’ve done with a section of the man cave work top area available I installed a old kitchen sink ( free from a home improvement job) then blocked off the tap instillation holes then covered the water overflow with a thin piece of metal to act as a baffle and a air intake I also added a air extraction hose on the left hand side “ again free” this is connected to my dust separator and shop vac both positioned under the worktop with the compressor , and the air hose is pretty long so instead of cutting it I just fixed it to the wall sending it to virtually to one end of the man cave and back to my cabinet ( after it passes through a water trap before it enters the cabinet and to the gun - the syphon tube is then simply shoved down the plug hole ( after making one of the stainless steel inlet sections a 1/8” bigger to allow the pickup tube enough space) to slide into the only thing I paid for ( the telescopic bottle trap) that you just fill with the media you want then away you go and as blast the majority of it (media)drops back down into the trap the to change it just brush any left over down the plug hole then unscrew it underneath to empty it “simple” I get no issue like the problems with factory Chinese model’s of clogging up and the air coming in is dry the water trap rarely needs looking at, the whole sink is enclosed within a10mm ply box with the door not on the side but at the front at waist height ( a drop down design) with buckle latches to keep it closed 2 on the top and 1 on each side and a foam door seal prevents any leakage of not even the 240 grit it ( the door) has two 150 mm to 120mm reduces on the inside with the sleeves from a old waterproof jacket that has elasticated wrists attached so no need for the thick rubber gloves that restrict you movement and you can just use builders gloves on when using harsh media and go gloveless when using fine 240 grit as the elasticated wrist stop anything escaping, the inspection window is a double glazed piece “free” 36” long the full length of the sink and drain board area that gets used as a bit of a little storage area I also have a PC fan situated at the inside of the cabinet just screwed to the top of the door that I rarely use but it does send more media towards the extraction when it’s on it powered by a old mobile phone charger, the light is a large 18” frosted bathroom light ( it’s the type that is usually positioned above a mirror) that illuminates the whole cabinet and is controlled by a remote control I keep in my pocket. It’s simple and effective and certainly better than my nephews one he paid one hundred plus pounds for ( he also agrees himself) the shop vac is also controlled by remote control. My only expense ( a bottle trap) for the cabinet build as everything else I already had, so if your pockets are not deep enough to buy one“ just build your own 🖐” Stay safe and goodbye from 🇬🇧
Not a bad set of upgrades to stumble upon . I'm after the feed issue upgrade I'm going to try the twin tube option first see how I get on . The shop vac is a great idea I did it with mine 80lts a minute lol near damn pulled the gloves off the mounts ..gad to drill a few holes in the outlet tube . I dont get grit in the tub but a lot of fine dust on the filter slowing it down so looking at a material pre filter like the industrial units use . Thanks for the tips
Thank You !
Just bought this, and will have to do that pickup upgrade for sure, have a shop vac I can use
Great video !
I used the back port for the vacuum on mine. That's the correct way otherwise the side port will suck up all the sand that's why the back one has the scoop so only the dust will flow into it
Thanks
Excellent video! I am making one using PVC pipe. Cheaper! I used a screenshot of your modifications and I will give you credit!
I've had other viewers say 3/4" isn't big enough for courser media. I only use fine coal slag, you may want to use 1" or thicker pipe and fittings.
SPOT ON.........................................
Would love to see a video on the assembly of the valve underneith the cabinet. Great video.
You need a video for that? LOL
A video of the metering valve! ua-cam.com/video/isT92SqYyyo/v-deo.html
Great mods
New subscriber
Cheers
If Bear from den of tools says check out a video.......... Well damn it here I am checking it out. You got a new sub bud.
Can you do a video on how you connected the valve to the bottom of the blaster and how you ran the hose to the gun? Did you drill a hole in the side of the cabinet for the hose? And I would like to see how you connected the valve assembly to the door on the bottom. I have not used my cabinet for almost 2 years because things were falling apart and now I'm putting it back together and need to upgrade some stuff.
This may explain that valve a bit more. ua-cam.com/video/isT92SqYyyo/v-deo.html
How about some videos on them tractors sitting there.
Where did you run you hose through from the metering valve to the gun
Like the metering valve. Ho did you attach it to the trap door?
Here is a video regarding the metering valve. ua-cam.com/video/isT92SqYyyo/v-deo.html
Do you happen to have the parts list of the T~valve you built?
I changed the pickup tube to a side by side tube, one for air and one for material and that fixed the starvation issue. The one tube inside the other did not work for me at all.
Thanks for this comment Richard . I made my cabinet a few years back and although it works ok its not brilliant with the feed . Sort of pulses rather than continuously feeds .. have seen this idea mentioned and wondered how good . Thanks you just answered that for me
👍
I have copied the metering valve set up.... it is not feeding the media (100grit garnet), changed guns, adjusted valve, and air pressure with no luck. How many cfm are you running? Please help! I need this thing to work since I drilled holes all in my cabinet lol
Great video....thx. One question.....did you try using the vacuum port as it suggests, or did you immediately attach the vac. to the rear? I'm curious because other videos on this topic suggest the key is to have the air flow from low one side to high on the other....in my cabinet I have that as it came from the factory. The rear port has a baffle that is already sealed at the top so the air this side comes in near the shelf, and the vacuum port is higher up on the opposite side.
I found when I put it on the left side of the cabinet, it ended up sucking in way more sand than where it is now. I assume that is because I am right handed and I'm always using my right hand to hold the gun and it blows sand towards that side of the cabinet. I later ended up putting a baffle over that hole because I was occasionally blowing sand out it. My reclaimer catches very little sand and my view stays clear. Here is a video explaining that baffle. ua-cam.com/video/MrM8J1dnnl4/v-deo.html
Hello, would you happen to have the list of parts needed to make the metering valve?? Thanks
Baldo Leon its on video...pause it and make a list
Also. Most metering valve start at 1''. Do you think that would be better. Or yours work fine the way it is?
I drilled a 3/4" hole on the bottom of the flap/door and bolted a 3/4" flange to it. Mine seems to be working really well regardless of the fact it's entry is only 3/4". There is a better picture of it near the end of this video. ua-cam.com/video/MrM8J1dnnl4/v-deo.html
How big is your air compressor? Rather old video I know but new subscriber and I'm going through the channel. Really like it.
I'm using a 15cfm @ 90psi with a 27 gallon air tank and it keeps and cycles. When the video was shot I had a different compressor head, I would guess it was more like an 8cfm and it worked, but I had to wait and let the compressor catch up at times
@@1D10CRACY cool. Kind of surprised cuz 15 scfm is not all that much air. AVE just did a thing about that and shows you how to convert. Nice to know you can run it off a reasonable compressor.
My shop vac did not last long doing dust collection for sand blasting.
I used an internal collection bag along with the main filter. No problems.
With the dust collector set up, can it be used inside without having a layer of dust over everything in the shop?
I get no dust in the shop while using the cabinet. I do loose some media when I open the door on the side as it builds up along the edge where the door shuts. It seems to be a pretty good setup.
Could I use plastic fittings for the metering valve instead of iron? I bought steel but it seems like it might be a lot of weight hanging from the trap door.
I wouldn't see why not.
Your modification on the bottom with the air valve... where does the rubber hose enter the cabinet? How did you enter the cabinet... did you drill another hole?
Yup,.I drilled a hole on the right side of the cabinet, the hose goes through that hole, through a rubber grommet.
I'm curious?
I have ordered and it just arrived, a similar type
of cabinet here in Australia.
I have been looking at these mod videos especially
the metering valve set ups and was wondering.
Instead of a Tee piece on the underside of the hopper,
would a cross piece, with the ball(metering) valve on one side
and the media feed hose on the other opposite side, the drain plug stays the same, not work better?
As the suction comes on the feed tube, aiding gravity in allowing the media to fall,
would the introduced air work better, behind the media?
That is, if due to vacuum, any air pulled into the system, has to come through the media?
Rather than losing vacuum, via the valve, in front of the media?
I mean, if you have a big enough hole (metering valve) in your system,
you would reduce vacuum in the pick up hose to the point you would not draw up any media?
Is this not correct?
I have been giving it some thought as we are trying to "aerate" the sand.
Simply, is it better to have the valve (leak) between your source of vacuum and what you want to lift,
or behind what you want to lift?
I realise the "proper" ones you order from the shop are like you have made,
but does my theory seem sound?
Or am I missing some basic principle here?
Anyone got some thoughts on this?
Taking it further , would it work better if a source of low pressure air
was introduced at the ball valve position, I suggest, rather than rely on just vacuum pull?
Easily tapped off from the main air supply and made controllable to accommodate
different blast media weight maybe?
Just added the media feed at the bottom, just exactly the way you did, step by step. I have gobs of airflow, but media flow is pretty sketchy. When it flows, its awesome, but it starts and stops and sometimes is very light. Took forever to do two small pieces. I've adjusted the ball valve 20 different ways, but the media isn't flowing consistently. Can you help a brother out? Thanks alot!
Maybe the media. I'm using Black Diamond "fine" from TSC Tractor Shop. It's not sand, its coal slag, and runs about 8 bucks a bag, but the bag last a very long time! I also did a video on the metering valve. ua-cam.com/video/isT92SqYyyo/v-deo.html
@@1D10CRACY thanks for the reply. Watching the video on the metering valve, I may have discovered my problem. I noticed the hole you made in the door and the flat mounting piece you used, I simply threaded my pipe through the door using a nut on the other side. I think this may be the trouble. Going to change my setup to be like yours and see if it helps.
Thanks!
Where does the black hose go to?? (The one that's connected to the Metering Valve). Is that an air hose? Or is that what overflows into the bucket????
That hose feeds the sand to the gun. The air hose is separate.
The reason the back port doesn't send any media to your reclaimer is due to the baffle over the hole. it causes the media to fall back down...thats why that hole is for the pressure vent. Instead of wasting all that money on the reclaimer just bend another baffle for the vacuum hook up. If you wanted you could spend the $60 for a dust deputy and 5 gallon bucket to catch what little bit does make it out. Clicked this link to see if there were any new ideas but you didnt even touch the best modifications.
Point us to the "best" modifications! I'd love to see them!
You didn't show the complete set up of the recycle hose where it's going?
I guess I'm not sure what you're asking but I'm going to say no I didn't. The hose on the bottom of the feeder goes into the gun. And you're also need an additional airline hose to the gun. I put a hole in the side of the cabinet and I use the rubber grommet to seal it off. Just a side note, other people have copied this have had really good luck when they use fine, coal slag for media. People using larger media like play sand, it doesn't seem to work that well. I have only used fine, coal slag in mine and it works great.
Have weird questions what is the biggest size car rim you can fit into that cabinet?
The biggest I've put in it were 17.5s off of my RV, and it was pretty tight.
nice man. was thinking of doing my own metering valve as well similar to yours but wasnt sure whether it would have the same effect as the ones you can buy? can you comment on how well yours work?
thanks
It was a major improvement in media flow! I bet it's just as good as one you can buy, and a lot cheaper!
@@1D10CRACY yea hope so.. will do the same. you should post a vid on how to do your own metering valve. bet many would appreciate it =)
@@omgsogood5524 Here is a video explaining the metering valve a bit better. ua-cam.com/video/isT92SqYyyo/v-deo.html
Do you hook up a hose to the valve on the bottom?? How does it stop sand from coming out?
The hose coming out if the valve is going to the gun And sand doesn't leak out, the valve isn't opened enough for that to happen. A better video showing the valve better is here. ua-cam.com/video/MrM8J1dnnl4/v-deo.html
1D10CRACY ahhhh I see. I just put a pressure regulator on and got it dropped to about 50psi and drilled another hole in the pickup tube and it actually works now! Only problem I got now is high humidity making the sand clumpy. Great video, and thanks for the fast response! Subbed 👍🏻
That's Great!!! BTW, I had the same moisture issue and ended up building this air dryer. ua-cam.com/video/avCIvBewO-0/v-deo.html
What air pressure are you using?
80psi with an Eastwood gun.
What is the part# on the reclaimer
#60739
Where does the hose from the bottom of the cabinet go to?
It feeds the sand to the gun.
@@1D10CRACY ya I understand that. I just wanted to know how you routed it. I'm going to buy one of these soon and I will modify it as well.
Can you get a 15 inch wheel through the door? It looks like it might not fit.
I blasted 17.5" RV rims in mine, it was tight, but it did fit through the door. There wasn't much room to work inside, but it did the job.
So I installed a metering valve exactly like yours. Im having trouble getting media to flow consistently and evenly. Its either very little or no media at all getting to my gun. I also replaced my gun with an Eastwood foot powered unit. The stock gun was doing the same thing. I've tried adjusting the ball valve 100 different ways, but no difference . What the heck am I doing wrong? I've got a stack of parts waiting and can't make this setup work. Can someone help me here?
Thanks!
I had a friend copy my setup and he had the same issue, but he was using play sand. He switched over to black diamond "fine" coal slag and hasn't had any problems since.
@@1D10CRACY thanks for the reply . Im using the black media sand I bought from HF. It worked fine through the siphon tube, but for whatever reason, won't ir cant get through the metering valve. Is there a particular setting for your ball valve?
You didn't show in the video how to mount pipe to the dump door, so i simply drilled a hole thru it, fed the pipe thru hole and threaded a nut onto the pipe to hold it. It's probably 3/8" above surface of the metal on the inside. Could that be causing the problem? Wish I could attach a pic, but my setup is identical to yours, other than the nut on the pipe.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.
@@BigBillMiller66 I did a video explaining the metering valve, maybe it will help. ua-cam.com/video/isT92SqYyyo/v-deo.html
I copied your valve but did not work tried grinding inside to smooth out inside but still blocks up have water trap fitted increased size of air supply screened blasting media 2 times still blocked up increased pick up tube to 5/8 inches still blocked up running 90 psi pressure still blocking up changed 3 times different guns still blocked up any help would be great using 30 grit media
I use mine a lot and have never had it jam up. Maybe it's the media, I'm using coal slag, not sand as media. I'm also opening the valve to maybe 1/3rd open, and I'm using an eastwood gun set to 80psi.
I am in the middle of the same process. I have found this be Blaster cabinet to be a complete piece of s***, and it is worthless except anything as a basic cabinet and the owner needs to make all of the upgrades. And I'm talking a whole lot more than three. But my question is, I've ordered the metering valve kit, but I still don't understand how you have to drill the hole in the bottom of the door, and then what holds the 3/4 nipple into the bottom of the door? Pipe thread fittings are not like bolts and nuts. So please get back with me on this, let me know how I'm supposed to secure a 1 1/4 hole with the 3/4 pipe nipple. Does it have nuts and flat washers? They don't apply in pipe fittings. It's only for bolts and nuts.
Yup, the basic cabinet is ok for the price and it does the job, but with some minor modifications it can be better. Here is a video that explains my metering valve a bit better. ua-cam.com/video/isT92SqYyyo/v-deo.html
I think your air filter does not collect much media because you have mounted it ABOVE the cabinet. Gravity will make the media come back down to the cabinet???
Could very well be! Seems to work great, I don't plan to change a thing so far!
id say based off your mods you dont use this cabinet very much. The pick up tube mod only makes the cabinet barely usable. If you actually want to sand blast and be blown away at how well it can actually work, go get the 110lb pressure pot they sell and plumb that into your cabinet. Insane difference. you also need to throw away the crap plastic that comes with the glass and throw away the gloves. the original gloves probably get 5-10 hours of blasting before they just start to disentgrate. they are so cheap. and go buy several sheets of glass. if you upgrade to the pressure pot it becomes so effective that it starts bouncy sand back at the glass and will frost the glass and need to be replaced. just the cost of being efficient
I'd say you are mistaken on how much I use the cabinet. :D But you are right on the gloves, the pair that came with it didn't last very long at all. I replaced them with a better set I found on Amazon and they are holding up rather well. I also made the mistake of not using the glass protectors when I ran out and really needed the cabinet. Needless to say I had to order a new sheet of glass as it frosted to the point of not being able to see rather quickly and I now keep extra protectors on hand.
Hose
Yes!
*_WHY COME NO TATTOO???_*
Don’t bother buying reclaim system, good to know...
I have one and did these mods and iits still junk
Odd, mine turned out freaking awesome!
No Comms>
Comms>?
Man you need a new mic. This sounds like a 30s radio show
Yeah, sad huh! I've since upgraded to rode wireless mics.
All that talk with no video showing any actual usage with said mods...
Take a look at some of my more recent videos and you'll see it being used.
I’m confused, so if you don’t need the pick up tube if you do the metering valve right?
Right, instead of using a pickup tube, you connect to the metering valve.