Check out the follow up video to see how the "upgrades" lasted over a year of abuse. And, as promised, I cut open the oil filter to see how it held up to the solvent! ua-cam.com/video/RMBBH_ys-0o/v-deo.html
You may be happier if you drop that shelf all the way to the bottom at the feet and mount the legs/feet to it and then to the dolly. Then you can fit a 5 gallon can under it when you want to change out or recover solvent for storage and you can use a filter as it drains. just an idea. I love my set-up! That shelf rarely get's used any way.........well,until now!
Great video and very informative. I would like to add some info for you. The oil filter will do nothing to help the life of the pump. Fluid has to go through the pump first to get to the filter. Those pre-filters are good ideas to help with that. Might be better to put another one with the white one to help put pressure on the metal holding cage for the filter so the pump doesn't pull fluid in around the filter skipping the cleaning. Second is the oil filter itself. Though it is a great idea and does work. The filter is not really designed for caustic fluid like solvent. A better option, and one that will last longer not just because of materials, is a diesel fuel filter and mount. Those can filter out a lot more for cleaner fluid and can handle the pressure from the pump. Plus they are usually bigger so it will last longer between filter changes. Hope this helps. And keep up the great work.
Shane Broussard The filter really makes a big difference. I've been cleaning some really dirty parts lately but the solvent coming out is still very clean. It's definitely worth the effort.
Mounting the oil filter relocation unit inside the tub, above the fluid level and next to the pump is a much cleaner installation and lets you change the filter without worrying about spillage. 😊 I'd just put a plateand adapter where the normal inlet into the pump is to facilitate the influx of solvent from the filter and into the pump, pulling the fluid through the filter and then through the pump to protect the pump, something a lot of people forget. 😊 As for the petcock (valve), you can run a thread tap into the existing fitting and it's reaally close and quickly makes the NPT fitting work... No collection of adapters needed. 😉
Ideally you would put the filter inline before the pump. Put a through hull fitting below the fluid level with a screen on it. Have that drain into the oil filter then add an external pump that pulls through the filter.
I put this parts washer together 6 years ago and have moved it to 3 different garages. And just this past weekend I was using it to clean a differential cover and was thinking to myself how much I liked the parts washer. Still very happy with all of the modifications.
Have done a similar external filtration loop with the exception of a side entry remote filter and 3/8 fittings. Using PSC1000. Can't get the pump to push the fluid thru the filtration loop. The pump impeller rattles in it's housing. Changed out to a new pump and the same non pumping continued. Removed the filtration loop hose from the barb on plastic pump outlet and connected a length of the fuel hose letting it dangle into the cleaning basin. Turned on the pump, no impeller rattling and a nice steady stream of fluid exited the hose. Reconnected the filtration looop to the pump outlet barb, removed the filter from the mount, placed a bucket under the mount and turned on the pump. Pump impeller rattled and no fluid spewed from the mount port into the bucket. The pump just couldn't push the fluid up the hose inside the basin and down outside the basin to the filter mount. Does the pump require priming and can that be accomplished by pushing solvent in thru the HF metal flex pipe tip?
I didn't do anything special for priming. It sounds like there could be a blockage or restriction at your filter mount. I'm not sure which filter mount you have, but check to see if there is a specific inlet port vs outlet port. There could be an anti-drain back valve in there or something? (so if you were trying to push fluid into the outlet, it could be blocking the fluid). Sorry I can't help more. Let me know what you figure out.
Filter is awesome and yes solvent will be filtered with this method however the solvent is being filtered post pump, not pre pump so ot dosent really save the pump from failure as the grit is cycled through the pump well before it makes it to the added filter?
The solvent tank comes with a screen filter in front of the pump. As an extra screen, I took a piece of the green "brillo" type scrub pad, cut it to size, and then used a couple of zip ties to hold it in front of the pickup filter. Also, the pump doesn't suck from the bottom of the tank, it is up just a bit, so that helps too. Most of the really heavy sediment settles to the bottom.
@@ScrufsGarage If you need extra square pump filters you can get on eBay too - www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Washer-Pump-Filter-Harbor-Freight-Eastwood-Tractor-Supply-20-40-Gallons/254489122591
Should the fluid from the tank go through the filter first ,than the pump first . It would trap the gunk and the fluid will come out cleaner ? Just my thought.
Anyone looking to put a drain valve on one of these should check out the Fumoto drain valves. They are pretty neat and make life super easy for this or even oil draining on your vehicle which is what they are designed for. Never make a mess pulling drain plugs on your car again! Also you never have to remove it so there’s no chance of stripping bolts or damaging threads by over tightening!
I just finished the engine rebuild I was using the solvent tank for, so I'm ready to change the filter and scrap the junk out of the tank. I'll cut open the filter too so we can see how the filter media held up. I can say that thus far I haven't noticed a drop in pump flow, so that's a good sign.
In My set, The Wand threads into the pump discharge easily. But, when I attempted to thread a Brass 1/4 MIP x 3/8 Barb adapter into that same pump discharge port It started but would not thread in. And by saying started I mean it dropped into the thread groove but would not turn. I bought 2 fittings and tried both. This has to be an oddball thread like the valve on the bottom of the sump . Those threads on the pump discharge port are plastic, how easily did Your fitting thread in?
I just bought one here in Canada from Princess Auto,. Here the name is Power Fist, not Harbor Freight. Exactly the same model and everything. The only difference is that the whole thing is blue, no red parts. In your first video you introduced a different drain valve which cost me $53.00 CAD. Now you have a much cheaper valve, for $16.00 US , but which one is better? I have not received the one ordered from Amazon, and it won't arrive until Oct 02.
Drill the block of wood & dolly out enough to poxy a 3/8 or 1/4 drop-in anchor in the dolly. Cut an accordant piece of all-thread to whatever size anchor used, couple of matching nuts all in place of the dry wall screw...dunski. Extra mile: lynch pin & chain instead of all thread.
I don't get why you didn't just put the filter inside the tank then if any of it leaks at least inside the tank not on the floor you wouldn't have to drill any holes in your new harbor freight washer.
Kerosene or mineral spirits works well and should be cheaper also. And the name brand rent a parts washer uses water to clean solvent. Tank holds half water,half solvent which floats on the water. When fluid drops in tank sediments transfer to water and sink to bottom.
While I haven't used those as solvents, I've heard they can be effective cleaners. One consideration to whatever fluid you use is the flash point (the temp at which the fumes become flammable). Low flash mineral spirits has a flash point in the 70-86*F range; the high flash version is around 130*F. Kerosene has a flash point around 100*F. The PSC1000 has a 140*F flash point. So just be mindful about that if your tank might sit in direct sunlight in the summer, or if you use a tank heater, etc.
No heater or Sun . used it in commercial garage . Got tired of paying safety kleen every month. It seems to knock the smell down after mixing with water and may reduce flash point somehow too. It just doesn't seem to be as fummie after that.
Shane Broussard Yes, I'm working on an entire engine series for this build. From pulling and reinstalling the drivetrain to what failed in the motor and building the engine too. Hopefully the short block will be back from the machine shop next week!
6 years, no issues. Though obviously be mindful when moving it around. I’ve moved it to 3 different garages at this point. For big moves I drain the tank.
@@ScrufsGarage thanks for your response. I'm thinking about putting mine on one but wasn't sure how unstable it would be. My garage floor isnt too flat.
I am happy to report that after over 2 years, the foam tape is still holding up wonderfully! I really wasn't sure how long it would last but it has done excellent. And it really seals in any fumes/smells from the solvent.
All of the parts I used are listed in the episode notes with links. If there's anything you can't find, let me know. And the parts washer is still working great. I've been using it EXTENSIVELY the past few months while rebuilding an engine. The filter makes a big difference! Once the engine build is done I'll try to do a follow up episode and cut open the filter and see how it looks. Should be interesting to see how much it's catching.
Shane Broussard nothing special about the weather stripping. So I'm sure if it got saturated with the solvent it would deteriorate. But it's very inexpensive so no biggie if it's needs to replaced periodically. I've been using it pretty regular for the past month and it's holding up well. Just be sure to wipe if any splatter on the tank lip before closing the lid. Really helps keeping the garage from smelling like solvent!
Awesome, glad it was helpful. I recently had to move my washer tank and having an easy way to drain it and having the whole thing on wheels made it super easy. Definitely worth the effort in my opinion.
Not at the moment. But the operation is basically the same as before. The filter operates seamlessly. No reduction in flow, etc. I've used this parts washer repeatedly in the last 6 months and I've been super happy with it. Don't know how I lived without it before, haha. But when I finally drain the solvent and change the filter, I'll do a video of that process. Just have had some family health issues (cancer) come up lately, so a bit delayed on videos right now. Thanks for the patience.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video. Parts used are in the episode notes. And the basic brass fittings are available at Lowes/HD, etc. Good luck on your project!
People do not waste your time or money with this stuff. Unless the filter is before the pump it does nothing. You are better off simply waiting for the pump to die (mine hasn't in 15 years) and replacing it for less money than all the modifications. The pump does not care about particulate. Also sediment will settle to the bottom and become a non moving mass between uses.
Daniel Cummings I already had some 3/8" fuel hose from a previous project. But any auto parts store will have it in stock. be sure to get fuel hose and not coolant hose. Coolant hose won't last.
Hello! I just did this upgrade but it seems like the oil filter is causing a lot of resistance to the flow. I know the filter has a one way flapper on the inlet and it takes some pressure to push that open. Did you have similar issues? These little pumps are pretty weak on head pressure. I'm getting just a trickle with the filter in line. Flows fine without it. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks for posting the vid!
@@ScrufsGarage Yea the ports are the first thing I checked. I have the exact same filter and mount you're using. Just blowing through it with my mouth takes some pretty good pressure. More than I think the pump could overcome. Maybe I'll try a different filter. Thanks for your help.
Depending on what it is, you can spray was WD40 on it. When I brought my engine block home from the machine shop, that's what the machinist recommended on the cylinder walls while I was finishing the engine build.
Don't know if anyone else mention this but, Scotch brite pads have abrasive materials in them. Don't think I would like to possibly get those particles inside my engine.
Yes, someone else mentioned that too. It's a good insight and something I need to change. The purpose of the scotch brite pad is really to just be a screen for any big gobs, so it shouldn't be too hard to find something else that would work. There's still the "stock" filter in front of the pump, and then of course the fluid also goes through the new oil filter. So it's unlikely that any scotch brite particles would end up making it into an engine part, but all the same, it would be better to eliminate that risk all together. Good insights!
No, it's holding up very well. But the key is to not let it get soaked in solvent (ie, wipe off the lip before closing the lid). But even so, it's dirt cheap and super easy to replace if needed!
Not normally. Typically I'm not working at the parts washer for extended periods. But if I notice the fumes starting to get strong, I'll take a short break. I do have respirator I could use, and would be a good idea, if I needed to be there for long periods. I do however, ALWAYS wear eye protection and elbow length gloves. It's so easy for solvent to splash up. It would be horrible to get that stuff in your eye.
Once I finish my engine build project, I plan to change the solvent tank filter. I'll do a video so we can see how well the cellulose material in the typical oil filter holds up. Should be interesting! If you try a coolant filter, be sure to post back on how it holds up. Honestly I think either will work fine for this type of basic filtering.
That crap cleaner you have from HF is garbage water based. Sounds good on paper for the tree huggers and extremely exonomical as 1 gallon is 6 bucks and 19 gallons of water is free.........problem is in 3 mos, it turns algae and scum across top, and smells. Useless when you figure it cost 7 bucks to was 3 parts and you have to dump it. Threw it out, filled with 20 gallons of diesel, bam!!! 5 yrs later, still exactly the same cleaning power as day 1, no algae scum, no smell.
I did not use the cleaner from HF. I filled it with PSC1000 from tractor supply which is a petroleum distillate. I can attest that after 1.5 years, it still cleans just as good today as it did day one, and there's definitely no algae on top.
Michael Collins yes I do have some of the HF cleaner and have used it on various projects. It’s not bad stuff when used for the appropriate project. But like you I prefer a petroleum distillate in my solvent tank.
Some great ideas here and very well described. I'm in the UK and have exactly the same parts washer, your video has given me some good ideas to upgrade mine - thanks.
Awesome video! Liked it so much I went to HF, picked one up, then went on Amazon and ordered all of the mods! The only thing I did differently was I added a flow-through parts cleaning brush. Well done!!
At our shop we use straight up Paint thinner. I just read the SDS on paint thinner and the Flash point is at 100deg and this PSC 100 is 156deg. Big difference in terms of safety. I will give the PSC a try
Very Good explanation! I have had my parts washer from Harbor Freight for 20 years and never had any issues except for the switch. I never thought of these upgrades however I am going to do them.. Heck, I may get another 20 years out of it. LOL
I've had one of these at least 15 years. Didn't use it for the last 7 or 8 years. Left it outside. The paint finish faded on it. Left the motor and that stuff in the tub and stored the mineral spirits in plastic fuel-type cans. Set it back up about a year ago. Reintroduced that stored mineral spirits (which was clear btw due to settlement) and fired that dude up. Still works great! I'm really quite surprised by how well it operates. I don't use the thing every day. But every time I do use it, the solvent is clear because the solids settle to the bottom. I'll need to scrape that gunk up as a maintenance thing. All of these modifications this guy has done are unnecessary, in my opinion.
Shouldn't use scotch bright pads for filters as they contain abrasives that are chemically bound to the fibers in the pads. The solvent will break down that chemical bound and release the grit directly into your pump if the factory filter doesn't catch all of it.
This is such a great video! Thank you. An alternative to the oil rings would be an annealed copper washer. Wouldn't break down to the solvent as well :)
Did you use the original nylon seal on the drain valve? I have been noticing reviews of this valve where people are complaining the seal is too soft and squeezes out. When do you plan to examine your filter to see if it was affected by the solvent?
I agree, for the money spent plus a little extra effort on the upgrades, it becomes a very useful wash tank. I've been very happy with it. Thanks for watching!
Sir, peace and love this is so extremely helpful. Especially grateful for telling us the sizes of the hoses and fittings. And you even included links to everything you used, just wanna let you know you've made my life a lot easier
I plan on taking an electric pancake griddle and cutting the sides down to where the surface is flat then mounting it to the bottom of my washer tank. Should be able to dial in the temp and really get stuff clean!
Thanks for watching! A lot of the attention/comments are on the filter setup, but honestly the rolling cart, drain valve, and lid gasket have been just as big of improvements in usability for me. I'm been very pleased with this setup.
How does the filter work if the pump pumps fluid to the filter and then out to the nozzle? How does the fuel filter save the pump? The filter needs to be before the pump.
The filter isn't for the pump. It's to strain out suspended particles in the fluid coming out so that you don't contaminate the item you're cleaning (such as things with small passages, etc).
The main and most obvious improvement for these washers is a fit for purpose pump. Use of paper element filters means pump life may be halved in some cases, but the main issue is reduction in flow that fitting a filter will mean. A Little Giant 1Y pump doesnt cost much more than the pointless mods commonly shown on You Tube, and will improve both function and longevity...............
As a reference point, I've had my filter setup for roughly 4 years now with no issues on pump life and no observable difference in flow with or without the filter. The filter is intended for an engine that flows significantly more oil than the 5.2 gpm pump on the washer tank. Also, the PSC1000 solvent is much thinner than an engine oil. The PSC1000, at 40C is rated at 2.2 cST viscosity. For comparison, a Mobil 1 0w20 motor oil at 40C is rated at 45 cST viscosity. Though if you ever have a pump failure, upgrading to a better pump certainly wouldn't hurt.
@@ScrufsGarage Thats fine then. The garden fountain pumps the HF parts washers use are very cheap though, and if yours has lasted 4 years, there is really no reason to upgrade to a better one.
There’s a strainer before the pump to keep the big stuff out of the pump. The filter is used to remove any debris that’s suspended in the solvent. The goal of the filter is to have cleaner solvent coming out of the nozzle, since I was cleaning engine parts. It would not do anything to extend pump life.
The filter helps keep the solvent cleaner. So for my application, I was cleaning engine parts and having cleaner solvent was useful. Most heavy debris settles out of the solvent naturally. The filter helps removed suspended particles.
How long did it take for the PSC 1000 to ruin your parts washer? That parts washer is cheap and not meant to be used with petroleum based solvents. I'll bet it didn't last more than a month.
Scruf's Garage Just finished this up grade but can not get any fluid out of nossel. I have fluid pumping to the in side of filter but will not come out the out side . After I take off filter there is no fluid in filter . Any thoughts?
Shit, I need help. I fix vacuum pumps, not the ones for cars the machines themselves for laboratories. I'm trying to find a degreaser set up that would work at home. Theyre pretty dirty machines and warmer fluid seems to work best. I've used armakleen and its great but its way too expensive. Any help would seriously be great
Hmm, I can't comment too much on what solvent you should use. But as for heating the solvent you have a few options. Some guys use a heating element from a hot water heater (be careful with this depending on what solvent you end up using). I also considered a heating pad/mat with an adhesive back that could attach to the bottom of the tank but these are typically slow to warm up the fluid and I typically don't plan that far ahead. But I will say, for my use (cleaning greasy car parts), I haven't had anything that I couldn't get clean with minor scrubbing even w/o heating the fluid.
![[UA] Eternal Fire проти NAVI | EPL Season 20 Malta](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/chvlsDygrZM/mqdefault.jpg)
Check out the follow up video to see how the "upgrades" lasted over a year of abuse. And, as promised, I cut open the oil filter to see how it held up to the solvent!
ua-cam.com/video/RMBBH_ys-0o/v-deo.html
You may be happier if you drop that shelf all the way to the bottom at the feet and mount the legs/feet to it and then to the dolly. Then you can fit a 5 gallon can under it when you want to change out or recover solvent for storage and you can use a filter as it drains. just an idea. I love my set-up! That shelf rarely get's used any way.........well,until now!
Great video and very informative. I would like to add some info for you. The oil filter will do nothing to help the life of the pump. Fluid has to go through the pump first to get to the filter. Those pre-filters are good ideas to help with that. Might be better to put another one with the white one to help put pressure on the metal holding cage for the filter so the pump doesn't pull fluid in around the filter skipping the cleaning. Second is the oil filter itself. Though it is a great idea and does work. The filter is not really designed for caustic fluid like solvent. A better option, and one that will last longer not just because of materials, is a diesel fuel filter and mount. Those can filter out a lot more for cleaner fluid and can handle the pressure from the pump. Plus they are usually bigger so it will last longer between filter changes. Hope this helps. And keep up the great work.
Took the words right out of my mouth.
I did a similar upgrade recently.
I put my filter bracket INSIDE the basin to reduce mess when changung filters
Awesome idea on using that dolley to mount the washer and using the oil filter to filter the solvent.
Shane Broussard The filter really makes a big difference. I've been cleaning some really dirty parts lately but the solvent coming out is still very clean. It's definitely worth the effort.
Mounting the oil filter relocation unit inside the tub, above the fluid level and next to the pump is a much cleaner installation and lets you change the filter without worrying about spillage. 😊
I'd just put a plateand adapter where the normal inlet into the pump is to facilitate the influx of solvent from the filter and into the pump, pulling the fluid through the filter and then through the pump to protect the pump, something a lot of people forget. 😊 As for the petcock (valve), you can run a thread tap into the existing fitting and it's reaally close and quickly makes the NPT fitting work... No collection of adapters needed. 😉
Generally I dont leave comments , this video really deserved it buddy ! great work! great tips!
I'm glad to hear the video was helpful. Thanks for watching, and for the positive feedback!
Your a very thorough person. . Love your channel
Thanks for watching!
Ideally you would put the filter inline before the pump. Put a through hull fitting below the fluid level with a screen on it. Have that drain into the oil filter then add an external pump that pulls through the filter.
Thanks bud for all the research and info!
I put this parts washer together 6 years ago and have moved it to 3 different garages. And just this past weekend I was using it to clean a differential cover and was thinking to myself how much I liked the parts washer. Still very happy with all of the modifications.
I think a diesel filter would do better then oil
Have done a similar external filtration loop with the exception of a side entry remote filter and 3/8 fittings. Using PSC1000. Can't get the pump to push the fluid thru the filtration loop. The pump impeller rattles in it's housing. Changed out to a new pump and the same non pumping continued. Removed the filtration loop hose from the barb on plastic pump outlet and connected a length of the fuel hose letting it dangle into the cleaning basin. Turned on the pump, no impeller rattling and a nice steady stream of fluid exited the hose. Reconnected the filtration looop to the pump outlet barb, removed the filter from the mount, placed a bucket under the mount and turned on the pump. Pump impeller rattled and no fluid spewed from the mount port into the bucket. The pump just couldn't push the fluid up the hose inside the basin and down outside the basin to the filter mount. Does the pump require priming and can that be accomplished by pushing solvent in thru the HF metal flex pipe tip?
I didn't do anything special for priming. It sounds like there could be a blockage or restriction at your filter mount. I'm not sure which filter mount you have, but check to see if there is a specific inlet port vs outlet port. There could be an anti-drain back valve in there or something? (so if you were trying to push fluid into the outlet, it could be blocking the fluid). Sorry I can't help more. Let me know what you figure out.
Filter is awesome and yes solvent will be filtered with this method however the solvent is being filtered post pump, not pre pump so ot dosent really save the pump from failure as the grit is cycled through the pump well before it makes it to the added filter?
The solvent tank comes with a screen filter in front of the pump. As an extra screen, I took a piece of the green "brillo" type scrub pad, cut it to size, and then used a couple of zip ties to hold it in front of the pickup filter. Also, the pump doesn't suck from the bottom of the tank, it is up just a bit, so that helps too. Most of the really heavy sediment settles to the bottom.
@@ScrufsGarage If you need extra square pump filters you can get on eBay too - www.ebay.com/itm/Parts-Washer-Pump-Filter-Harbor-Freight-Eastwood-Tractor-Supply-20-40-Gallons/254489122591
Should the fluid from the tank go through the filter first ,than the pump first . It would trap the gunk and the fluid will come out cleaner ? Just my thought.
you may want to to put a steel backing plate to give your filter mount a little more strength
NICE. CLEAN, DETAILED, CORRECT PARTS.
I added a new pump to mine,its a beast now,same filter set up.
What pump?
@@waynestickland8002 Little Giant PE-2YSA 518550 Submersible Parts Washer Pump, Black www.amazon.com/dp/B000WQYGQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NmpsDbJP2VBW5
Just to be clear, in the link, Amazon says, this pump is for use with water based solvents only
@@rvvanlife still working for me
Anyone looking to put a drain valve on one of these should check out the Fumoto drain valves. They are pretty neat and make life super easy for this or even oil draining on your vehicle which is what they are designed for. Never make a mess pulling drain plugs on your car again! Also you never have to remove it so there’s no chance of stripping bolts or damaging threads by over tightening!
Thanks for the info, sounds like a good idea
Great video! I am curious how the pump is holding up to the solvent. That goes for the filter as well.
I just finished the engine rebuild I was using the solvent tank for, so I'm ready to change the filter and scrap the junk out of the tank. I'll cut open the filter too so we can see how the filter media held up. I can say that thus far I haven't noticed a drop in pump flow, so that's a good sign.
Good video! Thanks for the spring loaded center punch tip!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
In My set, The Wand threads into the pump discharge easily. But, when I attempted to thread a Brass 1/4 MIP x 3/8 Barb adapter into that same pump discharge port It started but would not thread in. And by saying started I mean it dropped into the thread groove but would not turn. I bought 2 fittings and tried both. This has to be an oddball thread like the valve on the bottom of the sump . Those threads on the pump discharge port are plastic, how easily did Your fitting thread in?
OK that is a great video. Been wanting one so took your plans and made one. Thanks for the idea.
Awesome. I think you'll really enjoy having a solvent tank. I've found it very useful! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for your reply. Can you tell me if the PSC 1000 is safe to USE to clean aluminum parts.
According to Crown it is safe for aluminum. I cleaned plenty of aluminum parts and did not have any issues.
Thanks for the info. Have a great day
I just bought one here in Canada from Princess Auto,.
Here the name is Power Fist, not Harbor Freight.
Exactly the same model and everything.
The only difference is that the whole thing is blue, no red parts.
In your first video you introduced a different drain valve which cost me $53.00 CAD.
Now you have a much cheaper valve, for $16.00 US , but which one is better?
I have not received the one ordered from Amazon, and it won't arrive until Oct 02.
This is the one I have. It should be the cheaper one. I’ve been very happy with it. amzn.to/46ab5Et
Very nice! Great job on the video.
Thanks for watching! Hope the tips are helpful. If nothing else, the drain valve and the gasket around the lid are must haves IMO.
Drill the block of wood & dolly out enough to poxy a 3/8 or 1/4 drop-in anchor in the dolly. Cut an accordant piece of all-thread to whatever size anchor used, couple of matching nuts all in place of the dry wall screw...dunski. Extra mile: lynch pin & chain instead of all thread.
@Nonya Bizness just to make it a little more solid, rigid. Small articulation, splitting hair but meh, y not.
@Nonya Bizness damn, you're right. If I can't drink a beer & scratch my ass, I'll move to Canadia
great ideas, thank you
SUPERB JOB!!!!!!
I don't get why you didn't just put the filter inside the tank then if any of it leaks at least inside the tank not on the floor you wouldn't have to drill any holes in your new harbor freight washer.
And less work for the pump. One guy did a thing, and then the rest of UA-cam copied him.
Thanks , a good informative and entertaining video. i give a thumbs up .cheers !
Your pump is probably not rated to push through thag filter, you might need to add an inline booster on thag line or upgrade your pump
Thanks for the video and the link to the valve
Happy to help. The drain valve has worked really well for me. Thanks for watching.
I mounted mine with everything inside the legs so it wouldn't be hanging out to hit stuff.
Great idea!
That would had been better
Kerosene or mineral spirits works well and should be cheaper also. And the name brand rent a parts washer uses water to clean solvent. Tank holds half water,half solvent which floats on the water. When fluid drops in tank sediments transfer to water and sink to bottom.
While I haven't used those as solvents, I've heard they can be effective cleaners. One consideration to whatever fluid you use is the flash point (the temp at which the fumes become flammable). Low flash mineral spirits has a flash point in the 70-86*F range; the high flash version is around 130*F. Kerosene has a flash point around 100*F. The PSC1000 has a 140*F flash point. So just be mindful about that if your tank might sit in direct sunlight in the summer, or if you use a tank heater, etc.
No heater or Sun . used it in commercial garage . Got tired of paying safety kleen every month. It seems to knock the smell down after mixing with water and may reduce flash point somehow too. It just doesn't seem to be as fummie after that.
I heard that some are using diesel fuel in parts clears, how does it compare with kerosene and mineral spirits?
Put a plank of wood in between the high ends on that dolly and it's another shelf.
Also, any videos on what you are doing to your Vette's motor?
Shane Broussard Yes, I'm working on an entire engine series for this build. From pulling and reinstalling the drivetrain to what failed in the motor and building the engine too. Hopefully the short block will be back from the machine shop next week!
Have you flipped it over yet? It looks like it would be top heavy on that cart.
6 years, no issues. Though obviously be mindful when moving it around. I’ve moved it to 3 different garages at this point. For big moves I drain the tank.
@@ScrufsGarage thanks for your response. I'm thinking about putting mine on one but wasn't sure how unstable it would be. My garage floor isnt too flat.
well done video, thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
great video, Has the pump survived the solvent based cleaner
Yes it has. It's been about 2.5 years now and it's still going strong.
great idea. thanks for the share
Happy to share. Thanks for watching!
That solvent didn't melt your Harbor Freight pump?
Nice job .
Did the solvent fumes met the glue on the foam tape?
I am happy to report that after over 2 years, the foam tape is still holding up wonderfully! I really wasn't sure how long it would last but it has done excellent. And it really seals in any fumes/smells from the solvent.
Can you list all the parts that you used? How is it working for you?
All of the parts I used are listed in the episode notes with links. If there's anything you can't find, let me know. And the parts washer is still working great. I've been using it EXTENSIVELY the past few months while rebuilding an engine. The filter makes a big difference! Once the engine build is done I'll try to do a follow up episode and cut open the filter and see how it looks. Should be interesting to see how much it's catching.
I am rebuilding a 430 Lincoln. What adapters did you uses from the pump to the oil filter and back to the flex hose?
Is that weather stripping you are using solvent resistant? Otherwise it will turn into a mess.
Shane Broussard nothing special about the weather stripping. So I'm sure if it got saturated with the solvent it would deteriorate. But it's very inexpensive so no biggie if it's needs to replaced periodically. I've been using it pretty regular for the past month and it's holding up well. Just be sure to wipe if any splatter on the tank lip before closing the lid. Really helps keeping the garage from smelling like solvent!
What is that mount you used for the oil filter and where did you get it
Links to all of the items are in the episode notes.
Derale 15708 - Remote Filter Mount
amzn.to/2ifn6le
Hope this helps.
@@ScrufsGarage thanks man I can truly say this is the 1st diy video that I’ve have ever watched that had an answer to my problem
Awesome! I'm glad to have helped. Good luck on your project.
Very helpful video thank you 🙏🏼
Awesome, glad it was helpful. I recently had to move my washer tank and having an easy way to drain it and having the whole thing on wheels made it super easy. Definitely worth the effort in my opinion.
Did you add a washer on the 90 degree elbow where it connects to the actual parts washer?
Video of how it operates after modifications?
Not at the moment. But the operation is basically the same as before. The filter operates seamlessly. No reduction in flow, etc. I've used this parts washer repeatedly in the last 6 months and I've been super happy with it. Don't know how I lived without it before, haha. But when I finally drain the solvent and change the filter, I'll do a video of that process. Just have had some family health issues (cancer) come up lately, so a bit delayed on videos right now. Thanks for the patience.
Suggestion: Provide material links for parts used, great vid!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video. Parts used are in the episode notes. And the basic brass fittings are available at Lowes/HD, etc. Good luck on your project!
People do not waste your time or money with this stuff. Unless the filter is before the pump it does nothing. You are better off simply waiting for the pump to die (mine hasn't in 15 years) and replacing it for less money than all the modifications. The pump does not care about particulate. Also sediment will settle to the bottom and become a non moving mass between uses.
nice build. what is your source for fuel line?
Daniel Cummings I already had some 3/8" fuel hose from a previous project. But any auto parts store will have it in stock. be sure to get fuel hose and not coolant hose. Coolant hose won't last.
Hello! I just did this upgrade but it seems like the oil filter is causing a lot of resistance to the flow. I know the filter has a one way flapper on the inlet and it takes some pressure to push that open. Did you have similar issues? These little pumps are pretty weak on head pressure. I'm getting just a trickle with the filter in line. Flows fine without it. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks for posting the vid!
Any chance the inlet and outlet ports on the filter adapter are hooked up backwards? I get full flow through the filter, no noticeable reduction.
@@ScrufsGarage Yea the ports are the first thing I checked. I have the exact same filter and mount you're using. Just blowing through it with my mouth takes some pretty good pressure. More than I think the pump could overcome. Maybe I'll try a different filter. Thanks for your help.
How do you stop “flash rusting” after you wash metal parts and let them dry?
Depending on what it is, you can spray was WD40 on it. When I brought my engine block home from the machine shop, that's what the machinist recommended on the cylinder walls while I was finishing the engine build.
Don't know if anyone else mention this but, Scotch brite pads have abrasive materials in them. Don't think I would like to possibly get those particles inside my engine.
Yes, someone else mentioned that too. It's a good insight and something I need to change. The purpose of the scotch brite pad is really to just be a screen for any big gobs, so it shouldn't be too hard to find something else that would work. There's still the "stock" filter in front of the pump, and then of course the fluid also goes through the new oil filter. So it's unlikely that any scotch brite particles would end up making it into an engine part, but all the same, it would be better to eliminate that risk all together. Good insights!
Has the rubber foam discentigrated at all?
No, it's holding up very well. But the key is to not let it get soaked in solvent (ie, wipe off the lip before closing the lid). But even so, it's dirt cheap and super easy to replace if needed!
Do you use a respirator for the fumes?
Not normally. Typically I'm not working at the parts washer for extended periods. But if I notice the fumes starting to get strong, I'll take a short break. I do have respirator I could use, and would be a good idea, if I needed to be there for long periods. I do however, ALWAYS wear eye protection and elbow length gloves. It's so easy for solvent to splash up. It would be horrible to get that stuff in your eye.
What fittings did you use for the line back into tank?
I think a “Coolant” base and filter may be a better choice. The solvent may prematurely damage/ruin the “Oil” filter?
Once I finish my engine build project, I plan to change the solvent tank filter. I'll do a video so we can see how well the cellulose material in the typical oil filter holds up. Should be interesting! If you try a coolant filter, be sure to post back on how it holds up. Honestly I think either will work fine for this type of basic filtering.
quick question , was 5 gallons of psc 1000 enough for the parts washer?
If I recall, I bought two 5-gallon pales though it only used about 1.5.
You could buy a box at Harbor Freight
Excellent👍👍👍👍😎
So what were the exact things you bought and added on to this?
All of the components I bought are linked in the episode notes above. Hope this helps!
All of the components I bought are linked in the episode notes above. Hope this helps!
Thanks for sharing man.
Thanks for watching! Glad to hear the video was helpful.
Using the filter backwards got a thumbs down.
Didn’t see it work 🤔👎🏼I’m sceptical
That crap cleaner you have from HF is garbage water based. Sounds good on paper for the tree huggers and extremely exonomical as 1 gallon is 6 bucks and 19 gallons of water is free.........problem is in 3 mos, it turns algae and scum across top, and smells. Useless when you figure it cost 7 bucks to was 3 parts and you have to dump it. Threw it out, filled with 20 gallons of diesel, bam!!! 5 yrs later, still exactly the same cleaning power as day 1, no algae scum, no smell.
I did not use the cleaner from HF. I filled it with PSC1000 from tractor supply which is a petroleum distillate. I can attest that after 1.5 years, it still cleans just as good today as it did day one, and there's definitely no algae on top.
@@ScrufsGarage oh ok, the bottle in the vidoe, 1 gallon yellow liquid is the HF cleaner so that is what i was referring to
Michael Collins yes I do have some of the HF cleaner and have used it on various projects. It’s not bad stuff when used for the appropriate project. But like you I prefer a petroleum distillate in my solvent tank.
@@ScrufsGarage it works fine, just dont last more than 2 mos and a science project starts growing on it. Useless garbage
N
It's funny to see people who think they are soo witty & clever trying to out-do the last tard on the internet. Ends up being a huge mess.
should mount filter higher up it will siphon the tank when u remove the spin on filter but nice work non the less
Thanks for watching. I can confirm that it did not siphon the tank when changing the filter, so no issue there.
Some great ideas here and very well described. I'm in the UK and have exactly the same parts washer, your video has given me some good ideas to upgrade mine - thanks.
Awesome, very glad you found it helpful. Good luck on your project!
Awesome video! Liked it so much I went to HF, picked one up, then went on Amazon and ordered all of the mods! The only thing I did differently was I added a flow-through parts cleaning brush. Well done!!
Awesome! Glad to hear was helpful. Hope you enjoy your new solvent tank!
Does Amazon sell mineral spirits based pumps?
At our shop we use straight up Paint thinner. I just read the SDS on paint thinner and the Flash point is at 100deg and this PSC 100 is 156deg.
Big difference in terms of safety. I will give the PSC a try
Very Good explanation! I have had my parts washer from Harbor Freight for 20 years and never had any issues except for the switch. I never thought of these upgrades however I am going to do them.. Heck, I may get another 20 years out of it. LOL
I've had one of these at least 15 years. Didn't use it for the last 7 or 8 years. Left it outside. The paint finish faded on it. Left the motor and that stuff in the tub and stored the mineral spirits in plastic fuel-type cans. Set it back up about a year ago. Reintroduced that stored mineral spirits (which was clear btw due to settlement) and fired that dude up. Still works great! I'm really quite surprised by how well it operates. I don't use the thing every day. But every time I do use it, the solvent is clear because the solids settle to the bottom. I'll need to scrape that gunk up as a maintenance thing. All of these modifications this guy has done are unnecessary, in my opinion.
NPT, by the way, stands for, "national pipe thread". idk if anyone has said it as I was half asleep when watching.
National Pipe Taper, as there's also NPS for straight
Awesome video and great ideas! Just subbed and became a fan. Thanks for the video.
Jeff Parker glad you found the video helpful! I've been putting this parts washer to work lately!
Shouldn't use scotch bright pads for filters as they contain abrasives that are chemically bound to the fibers in the pads. The solvent will break down that chemical bound and release the grit directly into your pump if the factory filter doesn't catch all of it.
This is such a great video! Thank you. An alternative to the oil rings would be an annealed copper washer. Wouldn't break down to the solvent as well :)
damn, you say um / uh alot
You need to buy chemical resistant gloves
Did you use the original nylon seal on the drain valve? I have been noticing reviews of this valve where people are complaining the seal is too soft and squeezes out.
When do you plan to examine your filter to see if it was affected by the solvent?
nicely done on the upgrades overall this washer isn’t bad for the money
I agree, for the money spent plus a little extra effort on the upgrades, it becomes a very useful wash tank. I've been very happy with it. Thanks for watching!
I'm not sure how I got here since I'm not even a mechanic :) Great upgrade...
Haha, UA-cam is a slippery slope sometimes. But welcome and thanks for watching!
Good up grade man! Thank you for sharing.
Happy to share. Thanks for watching.
Great explanation!
Sir, peace and love this is so extremely helpful. Especially grateful for telling us the sizes of the hoses and fittings.
And you even included links to everything you used, just wanna let you know you've made my life a lot easier
I plan on taking an electric pancake griddle and cutting the sides down to where the surface is flat then mounting it to the bottom of my washer tank. Should be able to dial in the temp and really get stuff clean!
Good idea and information. My only suggestion you would want the filter before the pump to be more effective.
Nice setup on the filter. What i found to work in my tank was kerosene. It works out really well.
Awesome! I haven't tried kerosene personally, but I've heard it works very well. Does it leave an oily residue?
Scruf's Garage
Yes but its not that bad. A little air normally takes care of it. And its easier to get rid of.
How do you think that would compare with diesel fuel in a solvent tank?
@@rvvanlife To be honest I don't know. Besides the smell, it cuts grease a little faster.
That’s purdy spiffy scruffy!!
🙂
Thanks for watching! A lot of the attention/comments are on the filter setup, but honestly the rolling cart, drain valve, and lid gasket have been just as big of improvements in usability for me. I'm been very pleased with this setup.
what's the 90degree adapter you used?
How does the filter work if the pump pumps fluid to the filter and then out to the nozzle? How does the fuel filter save the pump? The filter needs to be before the pump.
The filter isn't for the pump. It's to strain out suspended particles in the fluid coming out so that you don't contaminate the item you're cleaning (such as things with small passages, etc).
Awesome video.Shalom Bubba
Nice vid.
Thanks for watching! Be sure to check out the follow up video I recently posted to see how the filter/etc held up.
The main and most obvious improvement for these washers is a fit for purpose pump. Use of paper element filters means pump life may be halved in some cases, but the main issue is reduction in flow that fitting a filter will mean.
A Little Giant 1Y pump doesnt cost much more than the pointless mods commonly shown on You Tube, and will improve both function and longevity...............
As a reference point, I've had my filter setup for roughly 4 years now with no issues on pump life and no observable difference in flow with or without the filter. The filter is intended for an engine that flows significantly more oil than the 5.2 gpm pump on the washer tank. Also, the PSC1000 solvent is much thinner than an engine oil. The PSC1000, at 40C is rated at 2.2 cST viscosity. For comparison, a Mobil 1 0w20 motor oil at 40C is rated at 45 cST viscosity. Though if you ever have a pump failure, upgrading to a better pump certainly wouldn't hurt.
@@ScrufsGarage Thats fine then. The garden fountain pumps the HF parts washers use are very cheap though, and if yours has lasted 4 years, there is really no reason to upgrade to a better one.
Your oil filter appears to be mounted after the pump, so what exactly is it doing?
There’s a strainer before the pump to keep the big stuff out of the pump. The filter is used to remove any debris that’s suspended in the solvent. The goal of the filter is to have cleaner solvent coming out of the nozzle, since I was cleaning engine parts. It would not do anything to extend pump life.
How does the filter help the pump out if it's post pump?
The filter helps keep the solvent cleaner. So for my application, I was cleaning engine parts and having cleaner solvent was useful. Most heavy debris settles out of the solvent naturally. The filter helps removed suspended particles.
emdemas
How long did it take for the PSC 1000 to ruin your parts washer? That parts washer is cheap and not meant to be used with petroleum based solvents. I'll bet it didn't last more than a month.
Going on almost a year and still going strong. And I used it pretty extensively while I was rebuilding an engine. So far so good!
Scruf's Garage Just finished this up grade but can not get any fluid out of nossel. I have fluid pumping to the in side of filter but will not come out the out side . After I take off filter there is no fluid in filter . Any thoughts?
Superb effort son. I like all the upgrades and you're clearly thinking on your toes here.
Shit, I need help. I fix vacuum pumps, not the ones for cars the machines themselves for laboratories. I'm trying to find a degreaser set up that would work at home.
Theyre pretty dirty machines and warmer fluid seems to work best. I've used armakleen and its great but its way too expensive.
Any help would seriously be great
Hmm, I can't comment too much on what solvent you should use. But as for heating the solvent you have a few options. Some guys use a heating element from a hot water heater (be careful with this depending on what solvent you end up using). I also considered a heating pad/mat with an adhesive back that could attach to the bottom of the tank but these are typically slow to warm up the fluid and I typically don't plan that far ahead. But I will say, for my use (cleaning greasy car parts), I haven't had anything that I couldn't get clean with minor scrubbing even w/o heating the fluid.