Just used this tip. Saved a lot of time. You will not scratch the lobe unless you're extremely negligent. I have a customer with one that blew a plug out. Something must have got stuck in valve causing rocker to fall off. No need to purchase tool just to do diagnostic on high mileage engine.. It is either going to run ok or get new engine...
I would recommend having something soft and durable(Very clean) to cover the cam so you don't scratch or nick it if anyone was going to use this technique. It certainly gets the job done.
Thank you for the screwdriver tip! I'm completing the timing job and had one roller that I couldn't get the special tool on (i didn't discharge and remove the a/c).
This works for 2005-2010 4.6 3v engines as well. My girlfriends mustang ticked bad, ended up replacing a seized follower. Still using the oem scuffed up camshaft but its holding up nicely. Also didn't have to set timing with her engine.
@@snap-off5383 so there is a way to have achieve base circle over each lash adjuster and still be in the 9 o clock position for each one? also, can you get the lifters out too with the cam still in? i just pulled one out of my truck without knowing if it was in the 9 o clock position, on valve 1, hope i didn't f it up. can you just take the fan off and turn crank with wrench and see where the key way position is? i was doing it without having the fan removed.
i bought a 150$ tool tha was specifically made for this motor and its tedious and caused one of my valves to release its retainer which is a bitch to get back on. i used this method but put a latex dish glove between the surfaces to avoid scratching and it works awesome
ok, you are confusing me with the 9 oclock /base circle.. can i just pop the rocker safely when the rocker is touching a cam lobe that is pointing up??
No, the piston needs to be down somewhat, so when the rocker compresses the spring a bit to pop off it doesn't push the valve into the piston. Just change your spark plugs while you're at it, and it makes it easy to tell where the piston is.
@@thomasv5596 My Ford Workshop manual nor the haynes manual mention that dot at all, Haynes says pull the spark plug and check with a "plastic pen" and Ford says "postion piston off top dead center". When I look for the crankshaft pully info it shows how to pull it, and put it back on, but doesn't draw the dot, nor show its relationship to the crankshaft. The timing section of course points to the colored chain links and internal markings inside the timing cover. If you pull one spark plug and watch through the full 4 strokes you should be able to tell from the intake and exhaust cam lobe positions on the rest of them by watching how they behave on the one you pull.
It's best to pack your new oil pump with vaseline then fill your oil filter with as much oil as you can before starting , when doing these two things they have always picked the oil up in just a few turn overs.
Thats the way I do those. You arent going to damage the lobe as long as you pry against the flat part of the circle, this is referred to as the flat part of a cam lobe, and fold a piece of paper towel and sat by the cam and same piece between the screwdriver and the head
It's always best to be careful but it's definitely not easy to scratch the cams. If you do, just polish it out with a buffing wheel or rag and tada. Too bad there's no acrilic like screwdrivers out there in the normal size. The ones on the market are more for eye glass screws.
Thanks. This will be big help, going to change my valve springs to high load here soon and woundering how to remove rocker arms as this is the first time I am doing it my self.
What is the point about the crank at 9? Wouldn't it be different for each cylinder? Would this work on the 3 valve 5.4l? Can you remove the lifters or is the cam in the way on the 5.4l? I have a noisy lifter on my 3 valve and don't want to start a repair if the cam needs to come off. Can't find a picture of a 3 valve head and no videos on lifter removal and no one is answering questions about it. Thanks for the tip. Is this a 3 valve 4.6l?
+amtpdb1 The crank has to be at 9 because it ensures the pistons and valves are not going to touch each other and potentially cause the engine to fail after starting it back up after the install. It is different which is why you need to rotate the crank twice to get to the second 9 o clock position. And like he said you can only remove the arms that are under a cam lobe that is facing up off of that rocker arm.
I had 2 rockers that fell off (LH ex 6 right side and LH ex 7 left side) i bought 2 rockers and 2 lifters. cyl 7 snapped back in just like the video. But cyl 6 went in but i can easily move it with my hand. (original problem: cyl 6 no compression) i am assuming the spring is damaged? is there a way to replace it without removing the Camshaft?? thanks Chris
Do I just crank the engine a bit to get to the 9 o'clock position while doing this without removing? Cause it looks like I just crank the engine till the lobe is upward.I sent this video to my mobile mechanic to watch. He'll be doing the work. Thanks.
Do you know how to get the valve tappets to pump back up after you had to replace the oil pump? Please. Help.04 Mustang gt. 4.6 sohc.cleaned oil pan and pickup screen. Also new chains and guides.
actually it looks like a scratch, but if you look at his screwdriver it looks like it has white grease on it and that comes off after he rubs the lobe.
I agree the screwdriver has shit on it that came off when it slipped. Although I would never do it this way he did get the job done. But it would be much safer to just make something that could compress the spring and free up the rocker arm. Doing lifters and rocker arms in any kind of OHC car will make you despise a OHC engine. If I was going to use this method I would use a small piece of wood as a fulcrum to pivot the screwdriver on. So if you slip the wood gets it and not the engine
@@Axel.3v agghhh I understand now so I probably won’t have to turn my cams because the lobe is up wards I have enough space to slide under and install rocker and spring
I'm newbie...so this might sound like obvious question....but do I need to rotate the cam (and how do i if I need to) every time to move cam lobe to top position so that there is more clearance I'm assuming to get the lash lifter out? One other question...what needs to be done to new lifters prior to putting them in?
+Brown Trout Like he said in the video the cams make a 1/2 turn for every full turn of the crankshaft. So to get the cam to rotate you need to rotate the crank by turning the crank pulley with a breaker bar until it reaches the 9 o clock position. Then you need to rotate the crank twice around to get to the second 9 o clock position
Is there a test I can do to tell if its cam phasers making ticking or lash lifters. If its lifters I feel confident enough to do the job otherwise...not sure
@@browntrout3994 did you ever figure this out? Im in the same boat, i dont know if its lifters or cam phaser. they're suppose to sound identical apparently
Do you have to bleed the lash adjuster before putting it in the hole? I have a whole set of new ones ready to go in but they do not compress by hand and I've seen different things about whether to bleed them or not.
ATCA Auctions I didn't get a straight answer from anywhere so I just dove in and started doing. after about half way through I realized it's much easier if you bleed the lash adjusters before install. hopes this helps and good luck.
ATCA Auctions simply need to slowly compress the adjuster till it collapses all the way down then it will go in and out with fingers this can be accomplished by using a vice but I used a large set of chanel locks. after install and you fire the car up the lash adjusters will be pumped back up by the natural cycle of the motor.
Any mechanics out there.. I have a 1998 f150 4.6L v8 that's ticking and the truck is shaking. The ticking is coming from the passenger side around the valve cover which is also right next to the fuel injectors and spark plugs. The spark plugs were replaced with iridium ones and wires were replaced but i'm skeptical about misfire due to the plugs because they're not individual coils. Its 2 coil packs 4 running off each. And it seems to me to be dual overhead cams which take out the possibility of lifters. So my hunch is a bent rocker arm. Im just wondering if anyone else has some insight on this. Also the tick changes with the revolutions.
You probably had a rocker fall off or roller lock up.With the truck running start unplugging and the plugging back in the coils one at a time until you find one that doesn't change the engine idle and that's the bad one.Its a real simple job replacing them.Trust me I have a mustang and two f250 and everyone has had rocker arm failures
I would check your timing chain tensioners guides and chain's, thats most common ticking noise in the modular engines, the rocker arms shouldn't fall off in your situation, and with the clearances in these it would probably cause damage to the cam if it was ran down the road, if your timing chains are loose due to stretch, bad tensioner, or bad guides, it can jump time and you'll wish it hadn't.
Jon McGee dealing with the same issue here for a year or so, we popped the valve cover off this weekend and found that a roller rocker came off its original position which explains the lost of power, misfire, and no compression what so ever in one of the cylinders, right now we are looking into why but the 4.6 98 does have lifters per se, they are hyd lash adjusters.. if it goes out all sorts of issues can happen.. we are currently looking into the possibility of that being the cause of the roller rocker popping off of it even though the lash does still have alot of pressure
its lash adjuster got an air bubble, or lost oil pressure, or failed internally, so its not holding up on its end, letting it flop free when the other end gets pushed down and flung back up. Check your "oil filter adapter gasket".
Best option is not be a cheap ass and spend the $30 for the tool on Amazon to remove the follower the right way before bending a valve or messing up the tip on the follower. But when you do you can reflect on all the money you saved while pulling the head off the motor.
people want to talk shit about scratching the lobe but it's not a big deal. if you want to see some shit look at the rear bearing caps and cam journal on any passenger rear head on a mod motor lol.
really would have been nice for him to take just a moment to focus in on the cam follower and explain what to look for in abnormal wear and tear and common failure points ? I mean scouring the internet and not a single video is showing where these followers are failing ? I mean if everyone is replacing them how about a reason other then you are already in there ? These are roller just like roller lifters they are designed not to have wear .. so WHERE are the failing ?
ok .. tried different key words and apparently the 4.6L 2V followers are not an issue (they looked like a robust design hence my inquiry) and that the problem is with the 5.4L 3V followers which are a different crap design and very prone to not only failure but taking the engine out with it. one more reason never to buy a 3V
Funy, I wish when I was looking for videos on how to remove rocker arms and lash adjusters (they're not called lifters) when I had a couple of lash adjusters go bad. Tried doing it myself but eventually gave up and paid 500 dollars for someone else to do it
This is classic how not to waste your money on special tools video. I have done this over and over and over without wasting money on bullshit tools. and without doing damage.If you watch other youtube videos they all tell you that you have to buy a certain tool or you will do damage to the cam.Bullshit if you guys watch this guys video please tell me how this procedure hurts the cam !! I doubt if he applied more than 10 pounds pressure on his screwdriver. Long as you don't nick the cam all is good.
I agree, cams take one hell of a beating every second so a little screwdriver pressure does absolutely no harm. Find an old cam and hacksaw and try and cut into it then you'll understand the harness of that section of steel.
I made this video to be helpful and while trying to show it for the camera, I was in a weird position and focusing more on the camera than the task, so it knicked it. "No good deed goes unpunished" lol.
Looks like a good way to possibly bend a few valve stems in the process and scratch up a cam. I would at least loosen the cam cradles to give some extra clearance to the followers a lot of cringe factor in this video.
I'm sorta confused here... If my engine is a 3v then how will rotating the engine to 9 o'clock at 2 different stages get all 3 rockers on the base circle to swap them out?
@@Cbasschen go study some animations of how a 4 stroke engine works, you want the valve completely closed when you remove it's rocker(actually it's called a follower in this design type). That should clear up any confusion anyone has.
Just used this tip. Saved a lot of time. You will not scratch the lobe unless you're extremely negligent. I have a customer with one that blew a plug out. Something must have got stuck in valve causing rocker to fall off. No need to purchase tool just to do diagnostic on high mileage engine.. It is either going to run ok or get new engine...
I would recommend having something soft and durable(Very clean) to cover the cam so you don't scratch or nick it if anyone was going to use this technique. It certainly gets the job done.
soft you do not need. If it is between the screwdriver and the cam, like a piece of sheet metal, it will not mar the cam lobe.
Nothing more than a small piece of folded paper towel, thats the way I do those and you pry against the flat part of the lobe and not the lobe itself
Roller cams are made from hardened steel. Its not easy to scratch them.
Thank you for the screwdriver tip! I'm completing the timing job and had one roller that I couldn't get the special tool on (i didn't discharge and remove the a/c).
Thanks for this video. Was able to install the lifter and rocker arm using this technique. Need a very stiff screwdriver and requires some force.
Worked awesome! This video saved me. Thanks for sharing! Very simple fix for something that looked really tough to do!
This works for 2005-2010 4.6 3v engines as well. My girlfriends mustang ticked bad, ended up replacing a seized follower. Still using the oem scuffed up camshaft but its holding up nicely. Also didn't have to set timing with her engine.
JeepWhyJay how do u move the camshafts so the lobe is pointing away from the rocker arm?
@@flosgarage23 Turn the CRANKshaft bolt to turn the whole motor over.
@@snap-off5383 so there is a way to have achieve base circle over each lash adjuster and still be in the 9 o clock position for each one?
also, can you get the lifters out too with the cam still in?
i just pulled one out of my truck without knowing if it was in the 9 o clock position, on valve 1, hope i didn't f it up. can you just take the fan off and turn crank with wrench and see where the key way position is? i was doing it without having the fan removed.
@@thomasv5596 hi I was wondering if you had any update? How did the repair go?
Dude you just saved me about 10 hours of work. Love this! Thank you and subscribed
i bought a 150$ tool tha was specifically made for this motor and its tedious and caused one of my valves to release its retainer which is a bitch to get back on. i used this method but put a latex dish glove between the surfaces to avoid scratching and it works awesome
ok, you are confusing me with the 9 oclock /base circle.. can i just pop the rocker safely when the rocker is touching a cam lobe that is pointing up??
No, the piston needs to be down somewhat, so when the rocker compresses the spring a bit to pop off it doesn't push the valve into the piston. Just change your spark plugs while you're at it, and it makes it easy to tell where the piston is.
@@snap-off5383 so the the dot on the front of the crankshaft cover corresponds to the -5 hours of the keyway on the actual crankshaft?
@@thomasv5596 My Ford Workshop manual nor the haynes manual mention that dot at all, Haynes says pull the spark plug and check with a "plastic pen" and Ford says "postion piston off top dead center". When I look for the crankshaft pully info it shows how to pull it, and put it back on, but doesn't draw the dot, nor show its relationship to the crankshaft. The timing section of course points to the colored chain links and internal markings inside the timing cover. If you pull one spark plug and watch through the full 4 strokes you should be able to tell from the intake and exhaust cam lobe positions on the rest of them by watching how they behave on the one you pull.
@@snap-off5383 I'm just gonna slowly back the cam off and take it off that's how I put them on 2 years ago and didnt have any issues
It's best to pack your new oil pump with vaseline then fill your oil filter with as much oil as you can before starting , when doing these two things they have always picked the oil up in just a few turn overs.
Thats the way I do those. You arent going to damage the lobe as long as you pry against the flat part of the circle, this is referred to as the flat part of a cam lobe, and fold a piece of paper towel and sat by the cam and same piece between the screwdriver and the head
great tip THANKS, I'm replacing my value stem seals. this got me over a hurdle
It's always best to be careful but it's definitely not easy to scratch the cams. If you do, just polish it out with a buffing wheel or rag and tada.
Too bad there's no acrilic like screwdrivers out there in the normal size. The ones on the market are more for eye glass screws.
So where's the second 9 o clock position, counter clockwise or clockwise from tdc?
Thanks. This will be big help, going to change my valve springs to high load here soon and woundering how to remove rocker arms as this is the first time I am doing it my self.
I will definitely be doing this for my cam swap, way better than buying a 100$ tool!
thank you very much got a 4.0 that needs new roller followers maybe lash adjusters very helpful video
How hard is it to pull those lifters out without removing the cams?
it's funny how everyone a freaking mechanic on UA-cam until they fuck up
lets see you do the exhaust side
what is so hard about the exhaust side these are not canted valves
@@georgeniemi8259 same orientation, so nothing to pry against to get them off.
The amazon $26 spring compressors will get the exhaust side, the roll pin style one can be reconfigured to do the intake as well. Doing a video now.
Just did this on my 2007 ml350 it work perfectly great job thanks a lot
would this work on the new 3v 4.6? Look like they have the same type/similar rocker arm..
Did you figure it out man?
@@Axel.3vbro did u figure it out?
What is the point about the crank at 9? Wouldn't it be different for each cylinder? Would this work on the 3 valve 5.4l? Can you remove the lifters or is the cam in the way on the 5.4l? I have a noisy lifter on my 3 valve and don't want to start a repair if the cam needs to come off. Can't find a picture of a 3 valve head and no videos on lifter removal and no one is answering questions about it.
Thanks for the tip. Is this a 3 valve 4.6l?
+amtpdb1 The crank has to be at 9 because it ensures the pistons and valves are not going to touch each other and potentially cause the engine to fail after starting it back up after the install. It is different which is why you need to rotate the crank twice to get to the second 9 o clock position. And like he said you can only remove the arms that are under a cam lobe that is facing up off of that rocker arm.
I contacted Ford Racing at one point, the tech said this is how he removes the rockers when he's doing it.
SmitfraudC how about the one in the passenger side last one thanks
I had 2 rockers that fell off (LH ex 6 right side and LH ex 7 left side) i bought 2 rockers and 2 lifters. cyl 7 snapped back in just like the video. But cyl 6 went in but i can easily move it with my hand. (original problem: cyl 6 no compression) i am assuming the spring is damaged? is there a way to replace it without removing the Camshaft?? thanks Chris
if my rocker arm came off on my cobra could i just put it back on using this technique, or should I just buy a new rocker arm kit?
does it works for a 5.4 3v engine ? .. Thanks
Do I just crank the engine a bit to get to the 9 o'clock position while doing this without removing? Cause it looks like I just crank the engine till the lobe is upward.I sent this video to my mobile mechanic to watch. He'll be doing the work. Thanks.
But a remote starter connect to the starter to rotate the cam
Hello, would this work on ford 3v 4.6?
Do you know how to get the valve tappets to pump back up after you had to replace the oil pump? Please. Help.04 Mustang gt. 4.6 sohc.cleaned oil pan and pickup screen. Also new chains and guides.
actually it looks like a scratch, but if you look at his screwdriver it looks like it has white grease on it and that comes off after he rubs the lobe.
I agree the screwdriver has shit on it that came off when it slipped. Although I would never do it this way he did get the job done. But it would be much safer to just make something that could compress the spring and free up the rocker arm. Doing lifters and rocker arms in any kind of OHC car will make you despise a OHC engine.
If I was going to use this method I would use a small piece of wood as a fulcrum to pivot the screwdriver on. So if you slip the wood gets it and not the engine
Can this be done on a 3V? Only need to replace one rocker arm.
Hey man did you figure it out?
How do u make sure the crank key is 9o clock position?
I Belice he said when the lobe is facing upwards you can do it because that’s when most of the pressure is off the rocker arm
@@Axel.3v agghhh I understand now so I probably won’t have to turn my cams because the lobe is up wards I have enough space to slide under and install rocker and spring
@@Axel.3v I also bought ford compressor tool
@@danielpelaez9978 good luck and let me know how it goes man!
Best video I seen thanks
@svtlincoln I actually did them all in a 4.6l F150. I found that using a 1 inch wide snap on gasket scraper with square shaft is best.
I'm newbie...so this might sound like obvious question....but do I need to rotate the cam (and how do i if I need to) every time to move cam lobe to top position so that there is more clearance I'm assuming to get the lash lifter out? One other question...what needs to be done to new lifters prior to putting them in?
+Brown Trout Like he said in the video the cams make a 1/2 turn for every full turn of the crankshaft. So to get the cam to rotate you need to rotate the crank by turning the crank pulley with a breaker bar until it reaches the 9 o clock position. Then you need to rotate the crank twice around to get to the second 9 o clock position
Thanks..probably going to attack it next month ;-)
Is there a test I can do to tell if its cam phasers making ticking or lash lifters. If its lifters I feel confident enough to do the job otherwise...not sure
@@browntrout3994 did you ever figure this out? Im in the same boat, i dont know if its lifters or cam phaser. they're suppose to sound identical apparently
@Balrog124 Thank you for commenting. I was confused as well, this helped clear things up
Did it work for you though, was there any problems after you finished the job?
Do you have to bleed the lash adjuster before putting it in the hole? I have a whole set of new ones ready to go in but they do not compress by hand and I've seen different things about whether to bleed them or not.
did you ever get answer to this question on or off UA-cam. Im about to do this job on my 2006 GT and I'd like to know the full detailed process too
ATCA Auctions I didn't get a straight answer from anywhere so I just dove in and started doing. after about half way through I realized it's much easier if you bleed the lash adjusters before install. hopes this helps and good luck.
where or what is bleed process? how to? (thx in advance too)
ATCA Auctions simply need to slowly compress the adjuster till it collapses all the way down then it will go in and out with fingers this can be accomplished by using a vice but I used a large set of chanel locks. after install and you fire the car up the lash adjusters will be pumped back up by the natural cycle of the motor.
TY. I'll get back to you once I get to it. Its on my TO DO List right now. Unfortunately it just got pushed back a couple notches ;-(
thanks man for sharing this video
it help me a lot
Any mechanics out there.. I have a 1998 f150 4.6L v8 that's ticking and the truck is shaking. The ticking is coming from the passenger side around the valve cover which is also right next to the fuel injectors and spark plugs. The spark plugs were replaced with iridium ones and wires were replaced but i'm skeptical about misfire due to the plugs because they're not individual coils. Its 2 coil packs 4 running off each. And it seems to me to be dual overhead cams which take out the possibility of lifters. So my hunch is a bent rocker arm. Im just wondering if anyone else has some insight on this. Also the tick changes with the revolutions.
You probably had a rocker fall off or roller lock up.With the truck running start unplugging and the plugging back in the coils one at a time until you find one that doesn't change the engine idle and that's the bad one.Its a real simple job replacing them.Trust me I have a mustang and two f250 and everyone has had rocker arm failures
I would check your timing chain tensioners guides and chain's, thats most common ticking noise in the modular engines, the rocker arms shouldn't fall off in your situation, and with the clearances in these it would probably cause damage to the cam if it was ran down the road, if your timing chains are loose due to stretch, bad tensioner, or bad guides, it can jump time and you'll wish it hadn't.
Camphasers
Jon McGee dealing with the same issue here for a year or so, we popped the valve cover off this weekend and found that a roller rocker came off its original position which explains the lost of power, misfire, and no compression what so ever in one of the cylinders, right now we are looking into why but the 4.6 98 does have lifters per se, they are hyd lash adjusters.. if it goes out all sorts of issues can happen.. we are currently looking into the possibility of that being the cause of the roller rocker popping off of it even though the lash does still have alot of pressure
Will this work on the 4.6 3v to?
nice job scoring the cam lobe
You cant score the cam lobe if you pry against the flat part of the side of the lobe dum dum. The lobe would be facing straight up
Why would one of these completely fall out of place?
its lash adjuster got an air bubble, or lost oil pressure, or failed internally, so its not holding up on its end, letting it flop free when the other end gets pushed down and flung back up. Check your "oil filter adapter gasket".
Great option, maybe for safe measure a nylon tip be safer to use as the screwdriver
Best option is not be a cheap ass and spend the $30 for the tool on Amazon to remove the follower the right way before bending a valve or messing up the tip on the follower. But when you do you can reflect on all the money you saved while pulling the head off the motor.
There are 32 of those in the engine? I found the parts for $10 each, that would make it a $320 repair on my '05 explorer 😓
You would only need 16 because your Explorer has the 4.6 SOHC 2V engine
people want to talk shit about scratching the lobe but it's not a big deal. if you want to see some shit look at the rear bearing caps and cam journal on any passenger rear head on a mod motor lol.
You're.
So when does the cheap cam change video come out, HAHAHAHA. sorry couldn't resist.
Great idea. I just did on car.There are always Nay Sayers that try to bring you down.
Harold Demes what is the 9 o’clock position
i did it this way and it works!
Did u have to remove ur intake for space or not
Wow that’s crazy I have to replace one
But I already ordered tool 🤣🤣
and for all the stupid comments about scratches on the cam no it won't if you take your time and bleed the lash adjuster down
wow just totally works thank you
I tried it and it isn't even close to working.
Guess I'll look for a vid on the proper way.
I would not recommend doing it with a screw driver of this kind. Cams are extremely sensitive and can be damaged.
cervan is right deffinatly some kindof grease
really would have been nice for him to take just a moment to focus in on the cam follower and explain what to look for in abnormal wear and tear and common failure points ? I mean scouring the internet and not a single video is showing where these followers are failing ? I mean if everyone is replacing them how about a reason other then you are already in there ? These are roller just like roller lifters they are designed not to have wear .. so WHERE are the failing ?
ok .. tried different key words and apparently the 4.6L 2V followers are not an issue (they looked like a robust design hence my inquiry) and that the problem is with the 5.4L 3V followers which are a different crap design and very prone to not only failure but taking the engine out with it. one more reason never to buy a 3V
You can damage the cam by doing it this way.
Funy, I wish when I was looking for videos on how to remove rocker arms and lash adjusters (they're not called lifters) when I had a couple of lash adjusters go bad. Tried doing it myself but eventually gave up and paid 500 dollars for someone else to do it
What you are calling rocker arms are actually called followers so....
great video thanks.. thumbs up....
This is classic how not to waste your money on special tools video. I have done this over and over and over without wasting money on bullshit tools. and without doing damage.If you watch other youtube videos they all tell you that you have to buy a certain tool or you will do damage to the cam.Bullshit if you guys watch this guys video please tell me how this procedure hurts the cam !! I doubt if he applied more than 10 pounds pressure on his screwdriver. Long as you don't nick the cam all is good.
I agree, cams take one hell of a beating every second so a little screwdriver pressure does absolutely no harm. Find an old cam and hacksaw and try and cut into it then you'll understand the harness of that section of steel.
Great job !!
Wow talk about damage to the cam, I would use something to protect the cam
I made this video to be helpful and while trying to show it for the camera, I was in a weird position and focusing more on the camera than the task, so it knicked it. "No good deed goes unpunished" lol.
you are awesome
awesome tip for us noobs to mod motors!
Baste the whole mess with assembly lube, and perhaps polish the screwdriver to avoid fucking the cam lobe!
Perfect.
i did it like that too... easy
Try this when it's in the vehicle. WTF?
@urbanoutkast5185 I saw that :(
thanks
Looks like a good way to possibly bend a few valve stems in the process and scratch up a cam. I would at least loosen the cam cradles to give some extra clearance to the followers a lot of cringe factor in this video.
there roller rockers with ball bearings. a little scratch will not harm it...
oh you can see he scratches the lobe in this video!!!!
31 more times = ?
Did I miss something 🤣😂
That's a 32 valve engine, so yes you would be doing that if replacing all roller followers. I'd only replace the one damaged and call it a day
@@engineer_alv How could you tell which one(s) were bad without taking them out to inspect?
he scratched the cam @50
i hope so! i wouldn't wanna scratch my shit
dude,,,,,thanks
way to scratch and ding the lobes
That poor cam lobe
Bye bye cam...
Haha your CRAZY!! People please dont ever do it like!! If you are to cheap to use any other tools then a screwdriver by a HONDA!!
A really stupid way to install those roller rockers, you think you are smart, but it will bite your ass later by scratching the cam lobes.
I'm sorta confused here... If my engine is a 3v then how will rotating the engine to 9 o'clock at 2 different stages get all 3 rockers on the base circle to swap them out?
Because 2 of the 3 valves open and close in unison, creating just 2 stages.
@@toddmiller5322so I could be at either 9:00 position to be able do this?
@@Cbasschen go study some animations of how a 4 stroke engine works, you want the valve completely closed when you remove it's rocker(actually it's called a follower in this design type). That should clear up any confusion anyone has.
Will this method work with the 5.4 3v engine?
Does the same technique apply to the 5.4's?
yes. also works on 2v heads also.