The problem that I see with the 'popping-out' method, that it does laterally push the shaft of the valve and thereby applying a bending force to it. I understand that you and others may have done it this way many times over and hence are comfortable to conclude that this may not be enough to bend a valve. But who knows for sure(!) It does not take much for a slightly bent valve to get stuck and hit by the piston. The "popping-in" method seems OK and actually quite smartly executed.
Is there a valve spring compressor for this engine been in a vehicle job??cause I did a job years ago and invent a spring compressor fo it and it was a nightmare to do it but I did it...😊😊😊
Now I have been a mechanic for years never tired this before. I have a 2018 mustang gt that I need to do 2 new rocker arms and hydraulic lifters in do we think this tick might work. It would save me allot of time. Please let me know.
Correct. This is for replacing the rocker and valve lash adjuster only. It’s even easier with the heads on the car so you can rotate the crank to move the cam and take pressure off each lash adjuster.
look at you all handyman and stuff :) do u work on mustangs alot? i noticed you had a beautiful mac box i inherited one from my father i have yet to get up where im living hopyfully soon though
Mustang James Yeah. Little by little I’ve been making videos on mustangs. Have just about anything anyone would need at this point. I also received my tool box as a gift ua-cam.com/video/bLPWDcR6uQc/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage cool man i would like to bounce a question off ya if you get some time, im procharging my mustang and and baffled by the last step
It’s the same when heads are on the car- even easier since you can turn the crank shaft with a breaker bar and position the cam lobes right where you want them
How did you determine these were bad? I am in the midst of a rebuild on one of these and the haynes book says to put a paper clip in the hole and it should release the check ball and allow you to manually bleed out all the old oil and ensure that they are not stuck/can pump back up after bleeding down. I cannot for the life of me get any of mine to do that. I even soaked one in acetone overnight. Makes me think they are bad or I am stupid lol
I put an Allen key in the nose of them while submerging them in motor oil and pumping. It’s also supposed to prime them, but they are hydraulic, so like a bottle Jack it’s hard to tell if they hold pressure until they are running. They should pump if they aren’t locked up. I followed the Haynes steps too but it’s hard to know if they are good or bad
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I ended up blowing them out with compressed air after acetone soak. They freed right up and I could release the check ball. They all pump up with any fluid. Even the acetone.
05 dodge ram 1500 4.7 Cylinder 8 rocker arm popped off a month ago. I got new lifter and rocker arm and the rocker arm is loose when I put it back on. It snaps back on with no effort and that's not normal. I have tried everything. It's not a dropped valve seat..it can't be..I've been pulling my trailer with no rocker arm, last one on Cylinder 8
I have a 95 mark viii dohc motor in my 67 f100. When giving slight revs, I'll get a ticking done from the passenger side that will lessen after a few seconds. I assume it's a bad lash adjuster. Does that sound right to you? Is the fix similar?
It would be a similar fix if that’s it. I would take the cam cover off to investigate. It could also be a timing component, so listen around with a stethoscope ua-cam.com/video/WuZL7DSej9E/v-deo.htmlsi=A7XcqWAECo2sSYfs
@@yarkie1 I can’t recommend it, but I have before on the 2V engines. It will splash a little oil, so make sure it doesn’t get on the hot exhaust. At idle it will be flicking some oil around but for a short time you’d probably be fine. On most cars you can put the accelerator to the floor and then when starting it will crank and not start so you could watch the valvetrain that way. Of course be careful in case that was not a feature for 1995.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I appreciate the responses. I just watched the timing chain tensioner video. Great job! Easy to watch and understand. Thanks again!
Some say the hla's should be installed empty, some say no, some say rock solid lifters bend valves. I'm confused. Should the lifters be just stiff w/ oil and NOT rock solid? should they press easily (no oil) as long as the plunger springs back? Please comment. I have a '99 Expedition 5.4.
If they give the instructions to prime, I would imagine it’s for a reason. You submerge them in a bag of oil and prime them by putting an Allen key in the head and pumping. I would also hold the gas pedal to the floor while starting the car so it will prime and not start.
I would put both year, make, and model info in and see if they are both compatible. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081TZMDN7/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B081TZMDN7&linkId=3fb9111174aee2df78ccab85194f97da
Now do this in an early 2000s Expediton with half the engine in the firewall and the ac line in the way (The back ones are very hard to get to, the 2v compressor tool has to be held down by hand unlike the 3v tool that can be screwed down and will stay in position on its own) . Not sure how hard is it to replace this on Mustangs while the engine is still in the car.
you all probably dont care at all but does anybody know a method to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me
@Jasper Cash i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Been doing a lot of research on this subject and from a few sources that NPI lash adjusters bleed down faster then PI lash adjusters with 4V being the fastest .. (coyote engines are different apparently?) if you are doing a PI intake and cam swap on a NPI engine sourching the parts from a junkyard PI crown vic grab the lash adjusters while you are there because they are superior to the NPI oem adjusters.. also if ordering new adjusters for 4V ..get NPI adjusters .. if you simply order them from an aftermarket company you might be getting the faster bleed style 4V ones when this is a chance to upgrade to the better design.. comp cams has lash adjusters with slower bleed down rates and they cost a ton of $$$ who is to say they are not repackaged ford oem PI lash adjusters or they simply went direct to the oem supplier for the upgraded design ?
Ford performance has a kit for 270 that has the adjusters and the rollers, I think it’s probs best to replace both at the same time but it’s not needed
i own a 2017 Coyote, it still has a warranty, so the dealer is going to deal with it, but the question I have is, do these tend to fail often? I do not seem to remember these failing in my 2007 GT with 130k miles and mine in the 2017 make noise when I first start the car for a brief second then goes quiet like the lash lost fluid or something. I was going to look into if I should bother getting the Ford Performance version and hope they will install them under warranty if I paid for them
The “lifters” here are also known as called hydraulic lash adjusters and they are self-adjusting. If there is a valve lash problem then they would need to be replaced like he’s doing here
@@golfatit3140 No one ended up telling me if you can or cant, but I gave it a shot anyway. Once I removed the valve covers I found out that the spaces are way too tight compared to 4.6 in the video. Unless someone knows some secret trick, it’s not possible to do this method.
New ones should be firm when you push down on them down and rise slowly but I haven’t had any really go bad on me. The ford manual says that a properly functioning lash adjuster should bleed down in the 5-25 second range. So, if you can depress it with your fingers and it springs right back, it's bad. If it takes longer then 25 seconds to bleed down or less then 5 seconds, it's bad. I believe you need to remove the oil first so they should be dry to test. You’ll want to soak them in new motor oil, put an Allen down the head and push the tops up and down to prime them before install
Will continuing to drive with the ticking noise caused by these going bad cause engine damage? Or can you just drive it like this with the ticking indefinitely?
@@flash_the_stang8956 i know there’s no guarantee but would driving gently with a couple stuck lash adjusters for maybe 2000-3000 miles be ok probably?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Some say the hla's should be installed empty, some say no, some say rock solid lifters bend valves. I'm confused. Should the lifters be just stiff w/ oil and NOT rock solid? should they press easily (no oil) as long as the plunger springs back? Please comment. I have a '99 Expedition 5.4.
Yes they start to tick when going bad. Take something long like a breaker bar, crow bar, or a very long screw driver, and turn on the engine. Take whatever tool you're using and place it on the valve cover, so that it's phystially touching the valve cover. Place your ear on the other end of the tool and listen for an odd noise. Most of them will sound the same but the one that sounds different is nearby or the one that is starting to fail or has already failed. Very important to replcace then ASAP as it could drop a valve and destroy the engine. It could also be the phasers for the VCT mechanism. If you want more info, @FordTechMakuloko has some videos talking about them and how to replace them.
Im wondering if these have enough adjustment to compensate for the smaller base circle of reground OE cams.
Which way does the small hole face on the valve lash adjuster
Wanna know this too
The problem that I see with the 'popping-out' method, that it does laterally push the shaft of the valve and thereby applying a bending force to it. I understand that you and others may have done it this way many times over and hence are comfortable to conclude that this may not be enough to bend a valve. But who knows for sure(!) It does not take much for a slightly bent valve to get stuck and hit by the piston.
The "popping-in" method seems OK and actually quite smartly executed.
A bent rod or some other part hitting the piston, you would hear noise.
@@bryanvance6629in conclusion, is this method safe? Or not
Yes it's safe, until it's not. @@Axel.3v
@@iPutTheJinGenius5 The link you provided does not work.
@@mrtopcat2 ua-cam.com/video/SgPx5I24vcw/v-deo.htmlsi=n3LX0CwNKfw6xI9A
Is there a valve spring compressor for this engine been in a vehicle job??cause I did a job years ago and invent a spring compressor fo it and it was a nightmare to do it but I did it...😊😊😊
Now I have been a mechanic for years never tired this before. I have a 2018 mustang gt that I need to do 2 new rocker arms and hydraulic lifters in do we think this tick might work. It would save me allot of time. Please let me know.
Did you try it?
@ sadly not yet my car got hit a few weeks ago so it sucks
This method will it work without removing head? And if yes do I need valve spring compressor tool or can I use the screwdriver method? Thanks
Correct. This is for replacing the rocker and valve lash adjuster only. It’s even easier with the heads on the car so you can rotate the crank to move the cam and take pressure off each lash adjuster.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you for fast reply much appreciated. 🙏
Can I use the screwdriver method while the heads are still on the car?
Rocker arms should have no play correct?
I didn’t prime my lash adjusters, would i have a problem??
Did you have any issues?
look at you all handyman and stuff :) do u work on mustangs alot? i noticed you had a beautiful mac box i inherited one from my father i have yet to get up where im living hopyfully soon though
Mustang James Yeah. Little by little I’ve been making videos on mustangs. Have just about anything anyone would need at this point. I also received my tool box as a gift ua-cam.com/video/bLPWDcR6uQc/v-deo.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage cool man i would like to bounce a question off ya if you get some time, im procharging my mustang and and baffled by the last step
Mustang James Besides the tune? Ha, yeah what’s the question
Can you only use this method with the heads off? Or can you do it on the vehicle to? So you don’t have to compress the springs?
It’s the same when heads are on the car- even easier since you can turn the crank shaft with a breaker bar and position the cam lobes right where you want them
Would this work with other dohc engines?
I’ve done it on Ford SOHC and DOHC engines. Not sure on other manufacturers
Thanks to your video this also worked on my 1vd ftv engine! Whichever saved having to pull the whole motor! Cheers from Australia
How did you determine these were bad? I am in the midst of a rebuild on one of these and the haynes book says to put a paper clip in the hole and it should release the check ball and allow you to manually bleed out all the old oil and ensure that they are not stuck/can pump back up after bleeding down. I cannot for the life of me get any of mine to do that. I even soaked one in acetone overnight. Makes me think they are bad or I am stupid lol
I put an Allen key in the nose of them while submerging them in motor oil and pumping. It’s also supposed to prime them, but they are hydraulic, so like a bottle Jack it’s hard to tell if they hold pressure until they are running. They should pump if they aren’t locked up. I followed the Haynes steps too but it’s hard to know if they are good or bad
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I ended up blowing them out with compressed air after acetone soak. They freed right up and I could release the check ball. They all pump up with any fluid. Even the acetone.
they have to be pretty stiff - good point, thanks
05 dodge ram 1500 4.7
Cylinder 8 rocker arm popped off a month ago. I got new lifter and rocker arm and the rocker arm is loose when I put it back on. It snaps back on with no effort and that's not normal. I have tried everything. It's not a dropped valve seat..it can't be..I've been pulling my trailer with no rocker arm, last one on Cylinder 8
If it has the lash adjuster under it like this, I would try to replace one of the lash adjusters
@dannyjohnsonsgarage that was part of my comment. I did get a new lifter and rocker arm. Still the same
I have a 95 mark viii dohc motor in my 67 f100. When giving slight revs, I'll get a ticking done from the passenger side that will lessen after a few seconds. I assume it's a bad lash adjuster. Does that sound right to you? Is the fix similar?
It would be a similar fix if that’s it. I would take the cam cover off to investigate. It could also be a timing component, so listen around with a stethoscope ua-cam.com/video/WuZL7DSej9E/v-deo.htmlsi=A7XcqWAECo2sSYfs
If it is the timing components, I have a video on that too ua-cam.com/video/rqsWUZjDtnY/v-deo.htmlsi=SZWD0oHPo4GXUg_V
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragecan i run the car with the valve cover off to verify exactly which one?
@@yarkie1 I can’t recommend it, but I have before on the 2V engines. It will splash a little oil, so make sure it doesn’t get on the hot exhaust. At idle it will be flicking some oil around but for a short time you’d probably be fine. On most cars you can put the accelerator to the floor and then when starting it will crank and not start so you could watch the valvetrain that way. Of course be careful in case that was not a feature for 1995.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I appreciate the responses. I just watched the timing chain tensioner video. Great job! Easy to watch and understand. Thanks again!
Some say the hla's should be installed empty, some say no, some say rock solid lifters bend valves. I'm confused. Should the lifters be just stiff w/ oil and NOT rock solid? should they press easily (no oil) as long as the plunger springs back? Please comment. I have a '99 Expedition 5.4.
If they give the instructions to prime, I would imagine it’s for a reason. You submerge them in a bag of oil and prime them by putting an Allen key in the head and pumping. I would also hold the gas pedal to the floor while starting the car so it will prime and not start.
That doesn't help me much, but thanks for the quick reply.
Was curious if a hydraulic lifter out of a 1999 Ford F150 5.4 Triton V8 fit in a 2010 Ford Crown Victoria police interceptor 4.6 engine?
I would put both year, make, and model info in and see if they are both compatible. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081TZMDN7/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B081TZMDN7&linkId=3fb9111174aee2df78ccab85194f97da
Now do this in an early 2000s Expediton with half the engine in the firewall and the ac line in the way (The back ones are very hard to get to, the 2v compressor tool has to be held down by hand unlike the 3v tool that can be screwed down and will stay in position on its own) . Not sure how hard is it to replace this on Mustangs while the engine is still in the car.
you all probably dont care at all but does anybody know a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb lost my account password. I would love any help you can offer me
@Callum Edward Instablaster ;)
@Jasper Cash i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I feel this. Taking them off wasn’t an issuer but locking the rollers is a struggle with the engine still in the vehicle
Been doing a lot of research on this subject and from a few sources that NPI lash adjusters bleed down faster then PI lash adjusters with 4V being the fastest .. (coyote engines are different apparently?) if you are doing a PI intake and cam swap on a NPI engine sourching the parts from a junkyard PI crown vic grab the lash adjusters while you are there because they are superior to the NPI oem adjusters.. also if ordering new adjusters for 4V ..get NPI adjusters .. if you simply order them from an aftermarket company you might be getting the faster bleed style 4V ones when this is a chance to upgrade to the better design.. comp cams has lash adjusters with slower bleed down rates and they cost a ton of $$$ who is to say they are not repackaged ford oem PI lash adjusters or they simply went direct to the oem supplier for the upgraded design ?
Wow awesome! Going to give it a try. Do suggest replacing the rollers with the valve lash?
Ford performance has a kit for 270 that has the adjusters and the rollers, I think it’s probs best to replace both at the same time but it’s not needed
@@christopherbrooke2142 they discontinued that kit long ago go check it, its always out of stock
i own a 2017 Coyote, it still has a warranty, so the dealer is going to deal with it, but the question I have is, do these tend to fail often? I do not seem to remember these failing in my 2007 GT with 130k miles and mine in the 2017 make noise when I first start the car for a brief second then goes quiet like the lash lost fluid or something. I was going to look into if I should bother getting the Ford Performance version and hope they will install them under warranty if I paid for them
I don’t think they fail often. It’s just something a lot of people assume is bad and not normally the case that they are
These failed all the time on the old 5.4 DOHC Navi motors.
So can I just use a screwdriver on 5.4 3v instead of that spring compressor? 😎 that looks a lot quicker!
Does a 2014 Ford Mustang V6 3.7 need a valve lash adjustment or is this only for older cars?
The “lifters” here are also known as called hydraulic lash adjusters and they are self-adjusting. If there is a valve lash problem then they would need to be replaced like he’s doing here
Thank you very very much for the info 👍👍👍👍👍👍🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
Could this be why I just started getting a really bad valve tic
It could be
can i do this tacoma 2tr-fe engine 4 cylinder
Do you gotta remove the heads or is it possible to keep them on
You can keep them on, but rotate the crank to turn the camshaft. It’s actually easier without removing the heads
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage cool I got an act lightning 145k I’m sure they need changed same with cam followers how often should they be changed
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do i need to pull the sparkplugs to be able to rotate the crank?
is this 3v or 2v
Will this work on a 2012 5.0?
I would like to know that myself cause my 5.0 has a bad tick on the passenger side of motor
Any word on this question ??
@@golfatit3140 No one ended up telling me if you can or cant, but I gave it a shot anyway. Once I removed the valve covers I found out that the spaces are way too tight compared to 4.6 in the video. Unless someone knows some secret trick, it’s not possible to do this method.
I did the valve seals and it was pain in da but in this engine, just my comment,i invent the spring compressor my self 😂😂😂
How to tell it is bad and need new ones? thanks
New ones should be firm when you push down on them down and rise slowly but I haven’t had any really go bad on me. The ford manual says that a properly functioning lash adjuster should bleed down in the 5-25 second range. So, if you can depress it with your fingers and it springs right back, it's bad. If it takes longer then 25 seconds to bleed down or less then 5 seconds, it's bad. I believe you need to remove the oil first so they should be dry to test. You’ll want to soak them in new motor oil, put an Allen down the head and push the tops up and down to prime them before install
What brand lifter did you replace the old one with?
Ford oem
How do you prime the lifters?
Put them in a bag of oil, push an allen key into the hole and pump them
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage which hole, top or side?
Will continuing to drive with the ticking noise caused by these going bad cause engine damage? Or can you just drive it like this with the ticking indefinitely?
From what I know, bad lash adjusters can cause camshaft damage
@@flash_the_stang8956 i know there’s no guarantee but would driving gently with a couple stuck lash adjusters for maybe 2000-3000 miles be ok probably?
This won’t work on a 3v Valve right ?
It should. I’ve done it as well on a 2V which is also a SOHC. The cam phasers may be the only difference that might somehow effect it
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for letting me know 👍
how can you tell the valve lash adjuster is faulty? is it noisy, are they just really soft or do they completely collapse or something?
All of the above
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Some say the hla's should be installed empty, some say no, some say rock solid lifters bend valves. I'm confused. Should the lifters be just stiff w/ oil and NOT rock solid? should they press easily (no oil) as long as the plunger springs back? Please comment. I have a '99 Expedition 5.4.
Thanks
I watched a video and used a vice now my new are ticking wish I read these comments first
Nice method🌹🌹
Which engine is this
Ford 4.6L DOHC
I don’t think it’s will work on 5.4 3V
can't believe you didn't drop a valve like that
Without the follower and lash adjust the valve only closes, it won’t drop out. The keepers are in.
Had a rocker follower on driver exhaust side break in half. 2018 5.0 F-150. Is it possible to slip a new one in there without removing the camshaft?
Do these cause a tick when they go bad? Or is that more from valve seals? How would you know they were bad without taking the engine apart?
Yes they start to tick when going bad. Take something long like a breaker bar, crow bar, or a very long screw driver, and turn on the engine. Take whatever tool you're using and place it on the valve cover, so that it's phystially touching the valve cover. Place your ear on the other end of the tool and listen for an odd noise. Most of them will sound the same but the one that sounds different is nearby or the one that is starting to fail or has already failed. Very important to replcace then ASAP as it could drop a valve and destroy the engine. It could also be the phasers for the VCT mechanism. If you want more info, @FordTechMakuloko has some videos talking about them and how to replace them.