I think a majority of your problems was that ground cable. You still have that old battery charge it back up throw it in there and see what it does now. I'd be interested to know what an apples to apples comparison actually is. But for that you'd actually need another brand new lead acid battery to compare it to.
except for one thing. When the car is cranked and running it is only charging at about 13.8 volts instead of about 14.3 to 14.6. So, the gauge is about 0.5 volts too low. Or the alternator is messed up.
Wow that's a significant change. It's better for your electronics too to stay above 12v. Very nice ride. I didn't know you had the Subaru. I've been watching your videos for a while and just wanna say thanks for all your videos!
Exactly what I was thinking Putting a voltage meter on the battery disconnected and nothing is going to give you one reading. Putting a A battery into a vehicle, even with it off is going to change that rating because stuff is going to be pulling on it let alone starting the vehicle up or having it sit there and turning the lights on you’re instantly going to have a voltage drop not a faulty gauge.
You'll need that alternator for sure, because it needs a floating charge of 13.4-13.8 volts to keep it healthy and a initial charge around 14.4-14.8 volts or complete full charge to begin with, nice car though.
I have an 02 Acura tl and ordered a D3400 to replace my under hood wet cell. How am I going to keep it charged? I have a stock 120 amp alternator? Thank you
That ground wire probably had a lot to do with that voltage drop and in places with cold winters batteries never make it more than 3 years. You should compare the xs battery to a brand new battery exactly like the one u took out, just to see if it's worth spending extra money for xs battery. With a new battery lie the one u took out I highly doubt there'd b much of a voltage difference between the 2. And the gold battery was probably less than half of wat the xs power battery cost
Yes the age definitely played into it but the car had always had voltage issues. I made a video showing it a few years ago when the battery was almost new. The battery had a 2nd ground that was completely fine. The Gold batter also cost me close to the same. It was around $230 or so.
Your batteries should last longer then 3 years even in cold weather. I grew up in northeast Washington right on Canadian border extremely rural and cold and snowy our batteries last just the same as anywhere else. Of course if you let them sit and drain it weakens them just like anywhere else. The ground was definitely a big issue too. I mean 68 Camaro has 65 amp alt and I bang a couple 10s on like 700 watts with no dimming issues.
@@Thumper68 with today's high charging voltages to get power from half bridge Korean amps, that's probably a realistic life expectancy. I used to charge at 15.3, cooked a couple sets of batts in 5 years. Brought the voltage down to 14.8 max, and I saw 4 years out of my last set. I just replaced it again, a new northstar again, with isolated headway bank. I expect about 4 years, ish. That's the price ya pay to get a few hundred extra watts!
@@Thumper68 absolutely agree 100% Another thing to note, is charging temperature. Cold winter weather requires slightly higher voltage, while extreme summer heat actually requires less that 14.4, hence the temp compensated PCM controlled alts these days.
Had to put a AGM in my Escalade Platnium. These trucks now have heated seats, cooled seats, all kinds of dvd, blue rays, seat massagers. Def need AGM in pretty much any new SUV or car.
@@redman4076 sure , bet you like Boss too . Fact : cca only has about 60% conductivity of it's ofc counterpart . Fact: cca has more internal resistance and thus more voltage drop under load . A special paste has to be used at connection points in residential applications of cca because of it's tendancey to corrode and cause a fire hazard . If cca was really ok I would expect disposable car manufacturers like Kia and Hyundai to use it . I'm 42 years old so I've probably been installing car stereos since before you were a twinkle in your daddy's eye . Sure you can use cca , just run 2 guage sizes larger than you would with copper to be safe . At that point you're not saving much money so just run copper . Steve Meade has a Dyno vid showing a 200 watt loss in cca vs ofc .
@@anglerandy5736 if you have a digital amp I would think you are ok . Tell you what I would do : ride around for half an hour pumping the hardest hitting , loudest thing you would normally listen to . After that , get out and check all your power connection points , battery,fuse holder, amplifier terminals and see if they're getting to hot to touch . If everything is ok then just check for corrosion every once in a while .
The only way I got the most out of my system was to do the big 3 upgrade with premium OFC 1/0 ga wire, upgraded my alternator to a 300 amp, added a 105 AH agm marine battery in the trunk, upgraded the stock battery with a 85 AH agm battery. Everything is twice as loud and clear. I'm pushing 2500 true watts.
you can stop all that corrosion on terminals or wires with silicone grease painted over terminals after hooking up terminals the grease is heat and waterproof, I never get any corrosion on terminals.
i will say. had an interstate battery from 2002 in my 92 honda accord still running in 2014. had little issue running my sundown e15 on 1000 watts with a 240 watt alternator other than the big hits with the sub. it dimmed the lights etc, decided i would look to get a new battery cause i didnt want to keep running it just in case. bought an autozone battery. and never again. it died within 3 months. had a warranty and got it replaced and didnt even last a month till i went and got another new interstate battery. it was 40 bucks cheaper and way better quality and had no issue from there
When diagnosing voltage drop issues, measure the actual battery terminals with a volt meter. THEN, using that as a reference, you can test other circuits for excessive voltage drops.
I just replaced a sla with an agm and definitely noticed a difference. My system is not particularly big, about 1200w total and my old battery ran it for a couple of years. With the agm I can feel the subs more for sure. I didn’t think it would make that much of a difference. Sundown sfb600 running 2 10” lcs and I can turn the bass knob up significantly more before clip. If you have a smaller/budget build the agm battery is the way to go.
Yep batteries make a world of difference I didn't know that AGMs maintained 13 volts resting 12.75 is 100% charged 12.65 is 75%, so resting at over 13 volts damn not including lithium I wonder what can be better than that
just want to add the added alternator will give you more charging power, but take away from your overall HP being it will put a slightly increased strain on the engine. I only mentioned as it looks like you added stuff to make this car faster and the larger alternator you'll noticed the difference. I had a 4CYL and put a high output and my MPG suffered as well..
when you started it up it cranked better maybe because you changed out a corroded earth lead with high resistance? capacity/health check the 'old' battery to see if it was in fact the earth lead was part of the problem. doesnt an AGM charge at 14.8 volts not 14.5 like the alternator regulator will be set at for a factory fitted flooded lead acid battery? what effect will that undercharge have on longevity of the AGM do you reckon?
Parker yessir that main ground was a major problem, better to compare the batteries now that you have fixed it. More accurate comparison because you changed that ground when you changed batteries. I would expect that the AGM will still outperform the other, however, I don't think your other battery was as bad as you think it was, due to that ground. Remember that's the frame ground, which your amp in back for your subs also grounds to. Hence why you couldn't play your system-poor ground! Try it again, the comparison, on your own time. Good videos, sir! Keep it up!
Like the rest of the world. The posts corroded because of a weak connection. Not because you used a standard battery. Those clamps dont make full contact unless you trim that little lip inside the clamp. Thats why you had corrosion.
No doubt an xs batt will blow the standard flooded away however it'd be a much more fair test if the flooded wasn't absolutely and completely shot lol. I digress even if it were in good shape you'll see the difference immediately. XS uses extremely pure lead in their agms, I've got my headways in the whip btw Parker. Those WITH the XS ultrcap is where it's at. Pushing 6k and barely in the 13s it'd go to 11v before n I've got 2 xs agms! Lithium ftw
What civic you got and do you have a hondata ? I have a 2.4 kswapped aclaim and need something like this what was the cca on your new battery compared to the old one
Glad to see the Subie back, I haven’t seen it in a while. I thought you sold it but I’m glad to see it’s still around. Looking forward to more build videos. 😃😃👍👍
We have a used battery pawn shop here, they also sell brand new batteries. i got an interstate agm battery for $150 with a 1 year no questions asked exchange, made a huge difference compared to the gold battery my car had. Their used normal batteries usually sell for less than $50, we have been using their batteries for a long time now, pretty good stuff :)
Maybe you can help me. I want to switch my battery under hood to an AGM but people are telling me that an alternator won't charge it. Do how do you charge yours?
@@850CANE well i heard jeeps dont charge at higher than like 14 volts, something like 13.8 v, so you need to buy a trickle charger that can charge agm batteries, noco or even a walmart trickle charger that has above 3 amps of charging should work, just make sure it does agm batteries. and just keep it on the charger as after as you can
AGM batteries should be charged before first use. Use a slow charge rate. This will give a longer life. That is what Yuasa requires, and they are a premium battery.
I just installed a XS D4800 in my 300c, and the voltage sits @ 14v, When I play music it fluctuates from 13.5 to 14.2. However the original factory battery was sitting @ 14.6 and did not fluctuate as much only like 14.2 never dimmed my lights. I have not tried the XS D4800 at night yet to see the lights.
xs power is quality. you’d be best off going with xs power. best bang for your buck. i have one in my car and a stock batt on a HO alternator and voltage barley drops while pulling over 300 amps
@@THEBLOODYBALLOON Ive got 2 Instate Batteries 94R AGM in my Jetta (240A JS Alt) and one 94R coupled with a MTX-34 in my Celica DCPower 180A Alt). Id like to see a test on "how much better" the XS is, if at all. Brand recognition seems to be the biggest selling point in Car Audio today, most batteries are made by the same manufacturers, most of these companies simply buy the material and make their own cases/labels. Even if XS makes everything in house, I'd put money down that the difference would be negligible. Its Amp hours that matters. Id like to go lithium soon though and drop all the weight.
@@RomaVilla So far from what I've seen with testing they seem well worth the money and hold their voltage very well...but the trade off is weight. Im still using the same cells I posted previously but I plan on getting a 45aH Limitless Cell and pair it with the UC-31 I recently purchased. Just a heads up - right now, Showtime Electronics has a sale on the UC-31 Super Caps and if you go into the "B-Stock" section they are half price from the sale cost...
I was shocked that installing a new AMG battery in my 2020 RAM 1500 made a considerable difference in starting! Nowadays, the old "flooded" batteries only last about 3-4 years and I expect this powerful AGM to last much, much longer.
How’s it been months later? Ive seen quite a few people saying they had issues warrantying their battery with the issues they had. I’d like to get one for my car though!
Wow, you needed a replacement that early. I've got a 2016 RT Challenger on its original 730CCA battery. Spins just as good now as it did when new. Going for a Duracell AGM next fall. What did you end up putting in yours?
That alternator below 13.8 volt is a must replace for a new one, for and AGM battery you will need constant or more than 13.8 volts to charge it properly or you will ruin it within a year. if you are not able to keep the 13.8volt with the new alternator you are better off with a bigger acid battery ... just my 2 cents... good luck, and i love that car!
That battery was definetly bad all lead sla batteries should rest 12.6-12.8 and agm typically rests 12.8-13.1 if that old battery was sitting at 11.7 just hooked up not on it was definetly a bad battery on the way out. I'd also tighten down all the grounds and connections
Some cars use the same size batteries as others , the positive and negative terminals are not always on the same side , hence the opposite pole locations
Your other battery had to have had some kind of damage dead cells or electrolyte levels not proper or something even while taking the agent to consideration from the power loss you described there was definitely something going on
Has it solved your dimming lights. Im debating between a second battery or replace my main battery with an agm battery. I don't want to occupy too much space in the trunk
That size is rather small? The bigger the battery box the better. I take it that those batteries are smaller than the group 24 and 65 sizes? If your system isn't maintaining at least 13 volts (probably should be more like 13.6 volts) across the battery while the car is running you probably have an electrical system problem that is causing the batteries to run undercharged.
This video is like an advertisement for the AGM. And you are a tech guy? With the cranked cable for the battery. Oh, I've just noticed that my cable is broken...
What’s up bro you got any videos on how to get rid of severe engine and whining noise for the love of God I can’t take this engine noise and whining out of my system, and I can’t find nothing on it
Can't argue performance is much better all the way around for certain applications. There is a big butt! On an ATV or motorcycle read up if the voltage isn't dropped going into the battery. You will end up with dry cells and direct Short circuit. You can have five good cells. One bad. Will consistently drain on the others. You'll learn that after pulling the plugs. Educate yourself before making that move
After watching this video and all the 30 years I have worked on cars. The ground is more important then the type of battery. When I seen the ground I knew that was a bigger issue than the battery type.
Awesome test! I just replaced my starting battery with an XS-POWER D6500. My headlights were dimming pretty bad with a SIA-3500 and an X-15 even when I didn't have it turned up. Voltage is better now but I still need to do Big 3
Do the big 3. Actually the big 4 is even better because it completes the circuit. Use Rockford or sky high audio (they are the best based on tests ran)OFC zero ga wire. Pure copper. NO COPPER CLAD!! TRUST ME it's worth it
Hi. Maybe you can help me. I ordered an AGM d3400 to replace my under hood wet cell. But people are saying that an alternator won't charge it. How do you charge yours? I was hoping the alternator would keep it charged somewhat and then I pull it out and tend it every so often
after my first setup.... Boss "8 Guage" kit from Amazon 🤣. I've run sky high and knukonceptz since then. I have a new vehicle now but I'm definitely gonna do the big 4
Seems the issue with your original battery was the fact the car was driven infrequently and you didn't use a battery charger maintainer in that process. The battery deteriorated as a result losing the ability to hold voltage capacity.
Hey Parker, if you leave that tuner plugged in sometimes it can kill your battery when not driving. If I don't drive my car for more than a couple of weeks and I leave my hp tuners plugged in. It will drain my battery.
Big 3 that car too it helps in more then just car audio applications. It will just overall help your voltage a lot more also look into getting a different volt meter or tuning that one if possible with a multimeter
@@ParkerTheBasshead Nice. I may get one for my Ram... I will need advice from you about high amp alternator and lithium cells. What would you recommend? Thanks again. Keep posting cool videos. Always sharing them
Good content shows that with swapn out your stock batt for an agm and doing the big 3 and lithiums in the back you can get vast improvement over stock elec without doing ho alt and everything is ready for one if you still seem to need it you’re already setup for it to bolt up.
Got 4 15 woofer s air ride but hardly no lights 1 agm otima yellow top waiting on my 200 amp alternator but it's dropping lot amps but no lights only head lights
Yeah my yukon denali has a spot underneath the hood for adding a second battery and so I threw my old D3400 in there with the oversized oem battery and it was reading 15.2-15.4 Volts regularly right up till I swapped out my alternator for a mechman 320a which now for some reason my voltage went down to 14.6 and if I let the truck sit for more than a week without running it to keep everything charged up the damn thing drops right down to 8v so I have to find the parasitic loss and why it is doing it strange but when I had the old alt and same batteries I could leave it sit for months with chargers plugged in and everything and it never had a single issue but ever since I put the mechman alt in I've came out to find completely dead batteries a handful of times and I have even gone as far as unplugging all chargers and accessories that I thought might be draining it but nope still an issue somewhere that I need to sort out 🤷♂️🤦♂️ I may just try and switch back to my old alt and see if that truly was the problem because if so that's a $550 waste of money and I won't run that mechman till my dual alt bracket kit comes in and I'm ready to install all my limitless lithium batteries and supercaps....
I think a majority of your problems was that ground cable. You still have that old battery charge it back up throw it in there and see what it does now. I'd be interested to know what an apples to apples comparison actually is. But for that you'd actually need another brand new lead acid battery to compare it to.
100%
except for one thing. When the car is cranked and running it is only charging at about 13.8 volts instead of about 14.3 to 14.6. So, the gauge is about 0.5 volts too low. Or the alternator is messed up.
Wow that's a significant change. It's better for your electronics too to stay above 12v. Very nice ride. I didn't know you had the Subaru. I've been watching your videos for a while and just wanna say thanks for all your videos!
Your guage is fine. The reason that the voltage drops below 12 is because you had all the lights on with the engine off
Exactly what I was thinking Putting a voltage meter on the battery disconnected and nothing is going to give you one reading. Putting a A battery into a vehicle, even with it off is going to change that rating because stuff is going to be pulling on it let alone starting the vehicle up or having it sit there and turning the lights on you’re instantly going to have a voltage drop not a faulty gauge.
This guy he don’t know nothing he loves to talk
@@michaelgarcia3274 a little late to the party i see
@@michaelgarcia3274 he is a clown
@@unkowntrooper1657u mad bro
You'll need that alternator for sure, because it needs a floating charge of 13.4-13.8 volts to keep it healthy and a initial charge around 14.4-14.8 volts or complete full charge to begin with, nice car though.
I have an 02 Acura tl and ordered a D3400 to replace my under hood wet cell. How am I going to keep it charged? I have a stock 120 amp alternator? Thank you
That ground wire probably had a lot to do with that voltage drop and in places with cold winters batteries never make it more than 3 years. You should compare the xs battery to a brand new battery exactly like the one u took out, just to see if it's worth spending extra money for xs battery. With a new battery lie the one u took out I highly doubt there'd b much of a voltage difference between the 2. And the gold battery was probably less than half of wat the xs power battery cost
Yes the age definitely played into it but the car had always had voltage issues. I made a video showing it a few years ago when the battery was almost new.
The battery had a 2nd ground that was completely fine.
The Gold batter also cost me close to the same. It was around $230 or so.
Your batteries should last longer then 3 years even in cold weather. I grew up in northeast Washington right on Canadian border extremely rural and cold and snowy our batteries last just the same as anywhere else. Of course if you let them sit and drain it weakens them just like anywhere else. The ground was definitely a big issue too. I mean 68 Camaro has 65 amp alt and I bang a couple 10s on like 700 watts with no dimming issues.
@@Thumper68 with today's high charging voltages to get power from half bridge Korean amps, that's probably a realistic life expectancy.
I used to charge at 15.3, cooked a couple sets of batts in 5 years. Brought the voltage down to 14.8 max, and I saw 4 years out of my last set. I just replaced it again, a new northstar again, with isolated headway bank. I expect about 4 years, ish. That's the price ya pay to get a few hundred extra watts!
@@georgesrisomsak9650 I’d just stay at 14.4 max .4 not enough gains to be worth it IMO.
@@Thumper68 absolutely agree 100%
Another thing to note, is charging temperature. Cold winter weather requires slightly higher voltage, while extreme summer heat actually requires less that 14.4, hence the temp compensated PCM controlled alts these days.
Had to put a AGM in my Escalade Platnium. These trucks now have heated seats, cooled seats, all kinds of dvd, blue rays, seat massagers. Def need AGM in pretty much any new SUV or car.
That corrosion always happens over time with cca wire . Subaru is love , only use ofc . Put cca in cars that you would like to see burn .
Oh blah blah blah cca wire is fine if you use it correctly I've seen cars burn up using ofc to so WYATEVER NEWB
@@redman4076 sure , bet you like Boss too . Fact : cca only has about 60% conductivity of it's ofc counterpart . Fact: cca has more internal resistance and thus more voltage drop under load . A special paste has to be used at connection points in residential applications of cca because of it's tendancey to corrode and cause a fire hazard . If cca was really ok I would expect disposable car manufacturers like Kia and Hyundai to use it . I'm 42 years old so I've probably been installing car stereos since before you were a twinkle in your daddy's eye . Sure you can use cca , just run 2 guage sizes larger than you would with copper to be safe . At that point you're not saving much money so just run copper . Steve Meade has a Dyno vid showing a 200 watt loss in cca vs ofc .
@@jeffreybradley3736 bro I accidentally bought a CCA 4 gauge kit before I knew much but I am only running 1500w max on a 12. Should I be okay?
@@anglerandy5736 if you have a digital amp I would think you are ok . Tell you what I would do : ride around for half an hour pumping the hardest hitting , loudest thing you would normally listen to . After that , get out and check all your power connection points , battery,fuse holder, amplifier terminals and see if they're getting to hot to touch . If everything is ok then just check for corrosion every once in a while .
The only way I got the most out of my system was to do the big 3 upgrade with premium OFC 1/0 ga wire, upgraded my alternator to a 300 amp, added a 105 AH agm marine battery in the trunk, upgraded the stock battery with a 85 AH agm battery. Everything is twice as loud and clear. I'm pushing 2500 true watts.
Do you have a charging isolator on the second battery or wired directly into the system
What are you running? And what type of alt?
Video is annoying
I think he had a weak battery to start with
you can stop all that corrosion on terminals or wires with silicone grease painted over terminals after hooking up terminals the grease is heat and waterproof, I never get any corrosion on terminals.
i will say. had an interstate battery from 2002 in my 92 honda accord still running in 2014. had little issue running my sundown e15 on 1000 watts with a 240 watt alternator other than the big hits with the sub. it dimmed the lights etc, decided i would look to get a new battery cause i didnt want to keep running it just in case. bought an autozone battery. and never again. it died within 3 months. had a warranty and got it replaced and didnt even last a month till i went and got another new interstate battery. it was 40 bucks cheaper and way better quality and had no issue from there
When diagnosing voltage drop issues, measure the actual battery terminals with a volt meter. THEN, using that as a reference, you can test other circuits for excessive voltage drops.
I just replaced a sla with an agm and definitely noticed a difference. My system is not particularly big, about 1200w total and my old battery ran it for a couple of years. With the agm I can feel the subs more for sure. I didn’t think it would make that much of a difference. Sundown sfb600 running 2 10” lcs and I can turn the bass knob up significantly more before clip.
If you have a smaller/budget build the agm battery is the way to go.
The only drawback to agm is they suffer a cca drop in extreme cold (below 0)
Yep batteries make a world of difference I didn't know that AGMs maintained 13 volts resting 12.75 is 100% charged 12.65 is 75%, so resting at over 13 volts damn not including lithium I wonder what can be better than that
just want to add the added alternator will give you more charging power, but take away from your overall HP being it will put a slightly increased strain on the engine. I only mentioned as it looks like you added stuff to make this car faster and the larger alternator you'll noticed the difference. I had a 4CYL and put a high output and my MPG suffered as well..
when you started it up it cranked better maybe because you changed out a corroded earth lead with high resistance? capacity/health check the 'old' battery to see if it was in fact the earth lead was part of the problem. doesnt an AGM charge at 14.8 volts not 14.5 like the alternator regulator will be set at for a factory fitted flooded lead acid battery? what effect will that undercharge have on longevity of the AGM do you reckon?
Parker yessir that main ground was a major problem, better to compare the batteries now that you have fixed it. More accurate comparison because you changed that ground when you changed batteries. I would expect that the AGM will still outperform the other, however, I don't think your other battery was as bad as you think it was, due to that ground. Remember that's the frame ground, which your amp in back for your subs also grounds to. Hence why you couldn't play your system-poor ground! Try it again, the comparison, on your own time. Good videos, sir! Keep it up!
Like the rest of the world. The posts corroded because of a weak connection. Not because you used a standard battery. Those clamps dont make full contact unless you trim that little lip inside the clamp. Thats why you had corrosion.
No doubt an xs batt will blow the standard flooded away however it'd be a much more fair test if the flooded wasn't absolutely and completely shot lol. I digress even if it were in good shape you'll see the difference immediately. XS uses extremely pure lead in their agms, I've got my headways in the whip btw Parker. Those WITH the XS ultrcap is where it's at. Pushing 6k and barely in the 13s it'd go to 11v before n I've got 2 xs agms! Lithium ftw
Is the xs made by Enersys ?
Im pretty sure this is a group size 51/51r hence the d5100r name. Also im using this in my civic which uses 51r.
What civic you got and do you have a hondata ? I have a 2.4 kswapped aclaim and need something like this what was the cca on your new battery compared to the old one
AGM means absorbed glass mat, and it means the battery acid inside is absorbed into fiberglass mats instead of sitting as a free-flowing liquid.
Glad to see the Subie back, I haven’t seen it in a while. I thought you sold it but I’m glad to see it’s still around. Looking forward to more build videos. 😃😃👍👍
The only possible con of AGM us that they like to be slightly discharged before you charge them back up (with alternator of course)
We have a used battery pawn shop here, they also sell brand new batteries. i got an interstate agm battery for $150 with a 1 year no questions asked exchange, made a huge difference compared to the gold battery my car had. Their used normal batteries usually sell for less than $50, we have been using their batteries for a long time now, pretty good stuff :)
Maybe you can help me. I want to switch my battery under hood to an AGM but people are telling me that an alternator won't charge it. Do how do you charge yours?
@@850CANE well i heard jeeps dont charge at higher than like 14 volts, something like 13.8 v, so you need to buy a trickle charger that can charge agm batteries, noco or even a walmart trickle charger that has above 3 amps of charging should work, just make sure it does agm batteries. and just keep it on the charger as after as you can
maybe a little more bass for the Subaru later
So I have a Honda 2002 will a agm battery work under the hood for any car?
Who is building the alternator? I need one built for my genesis coupe
autotech engineering is what i went with
@@THEBLOODYBALLOON local shop in Riverside CA. I just picked mine up few days ago.. Im at 14.9v now
I put the xs power d3400 under my hood and had even better results. Although my old battery was older and cheaper than your gold.
How are you keeping it charged I've been told that a regular alternator won't charge these batteries thank you
AGM batteries should be charged before first use. Use a slow charge rate. This will give a longer life. That is what Yuasa requires, and they are a premium battery.
Just picked up my new agm today. Super excited to get it installed.
I'm curious if you considered purchasing the Odyssey Extreme or Odyssey Performance AGM battery?
I just installed a XS D4800 in my 300c, and the voltage sits @ 14v, When I play music it fluctuates from 13.5 to 14.2. However the original factory battery was sitting @ 14.6 and did not fluctuate as much only like 14.2 never dimmed my lights. I have not tried the XS D4800 at night yet to see the lights.
They say not to use as main battery.
I run yellow cap Optima batteries. One under the hood, and one in the trunk.
What about the difference between a xs power and or a die hard agm from auto zone or auto parts
The question I need answered lol
xs power is quality. you’d be best off going with xs power. best bang for your buck. i have one in my car and a stock batt on a HO alternator and voltage barley drops while pulling over 300 amps
@@THEBLOODYBALLOON Ive got 2 Instate Batteries 94R AGM in my Jetta (240A JS Alt) and one 94R coupled with a MTX-34 in my Celica DCPower 180A Alt).
Id like to see a test on "how much better" the XS is, if at all. Brand recognition seems to be the biggest selling point in Car Audio today, most batteries are made by the same manufacturers, most of these companies simply buy the material and make their own cases/labels. Even if XS makes everything in house, I'd put money down that the difference would be negligible. Its Amp hours that matters.
Id like to go lithium soon though and drop all the weight.
@@Raymo2u what about north Star batteries, I've seen videos where they test how fast they recharge vs normal autocraft or duralast AGM
@@RomaVilla So far from what I've seen with testing they seem well worth the money and hold their voltage very well...but the trade off is weight.
Im still using the same cells I posted previously but I plan on getting a 45aH Limitless Cell and pair it with the UC-31 I recently purchased.
Just a heads up - right now, Showtime Electronics has a sale on the UC-31 Super Caps and if you go into the "B-Stock" section they are half price from the sale cost...
I was shocked that installing a new AMG battery in my 2020 RAM 1500 made a considerable difference in starting! Nowadays, the old "flooded" batteries only last about 3-4 years and I expect this powerful AGM to last much, much longer.
How’s it been months later? Ive seen quite a few people saying they had issues warrantying their battery with the issues they had.
I’d like to get one for my car though!
Wow, you needed a replacement that early. I've got a 2016 RT Challenger on its original 730CCA battery. Spins just as good now as it did when new. Going for a Duracell AGM next fall. What did you end up putting in yours?
You absolutely have to charge these type of batteries before using, or it will damage them. Just fyi for anyone thinking of buying one
Did the plate come with it?
If not how would I hook up my amp wire? Or where can you buy those plates?
That alternator below 13.8 volt is a must replace for a new one, for and AGM battery you will need constant or more than 13.8 volts to charge it properly or you will ruin it within a year. if you are not able to keep the 13.8volt with the new alternator you are better off with a bigger acid battery ... just my 2 cents... good luck, and i love that car!
Nice I'm glade you fixed your electrical💯
Parker, do the diode trick on the sense wire at loom on alternator and see 14,8v :) I know Subaru’s electrical systems like the back of my hand
That battery was definetly bad all lead sla batteries should rest 12.6-12.8 and agm typically rests 12.8-13.1 if that old battery was sitting at 11.7 just hooked up not on it was definetly a bad battery on the way out. I'd also tighten down all the grounds and connections
How were u able to hold the new battery in place since it was a less thicker ??
What is a reverse polarity battery used for?
Some cars use the same size batteries as others , the positive and negative terminals are not always on the same side , hence the opposite pole locations
Your other battery had to have had some kind of damage dead cells or electrolyte levels not proper or something even while taking the agent to consideration from the power loss you described there was definitely something going on
The corroded ground cable was the problem.
Where do you buy your alternators from?
How can I get an alternator built for my 07 Hyundai Tiburon I’m having a hard time finding anything from multiple companies
Wow NEW AGM are better than 3years OLD Conventional battery what a good review thank
They do vent if it gets overcharged
Has it solved your dimming lights. Im debating between a second battery or replace my main battery with an agm battery. I don't want to occupy too much space in the trunk
That size is rather small? The bigger the battery box the better. I take it that those batteries are smaller than the group 24 and 65 sizes?
If your system isn't maintaining at least 13 volts (probably should be more like 13.6 volts) across the battery while the car is running you probably have an electrical system problem that is causing the batteries to run undercharged.
Did you ended up changing the alternator ? the company you bought it from has a website ?
Hey I have a question, can I use a AGM 55ah -12v mighty max battery, I bought one new for my trolling motor and never used it..
Yes with the mech man alt 3 have to run 3 grounds 0 gauge wire not any ofc wire 400 amp fuse I never have had a problem with a real 5000 watts rms amp
Lithium batteries are going to be the new norm.
This video is like an advertisement for the AGM. And you are a tech guy? With the cranked cable for the battery. Oh, I've just noticed that my cable is broken...
one cell died on the flooded lead acid, have one on porch that does that
Always buy a top branded battery makes all the difference that battery u took out is muck vasta busch or excide the best brands 5 year warranty
A fully charged battery sits at 12.8 ish.
That battery alreqdy dropped a cell or just really sulfided.
Why upgrade a vehicle beyond the capacity of basic components?
I swapped from a reg flooded battery to a oem style agm and I’m impressed.
Does your alternator keep it charged?
@@850CANE yep and usually once a month I’ll charge my battery. Just to help it
@@Ronco160 I'm excited! Did your stuff beat harder? Help clipping at all?
What's that distribution block called?
What’s up bro you got any videos on how to get rid of severe engine and whining noise for the love of God I can’t take this engine noise and whining out of my system, and I can’t find nothing on it
You should do the big 3 as well my man! I did it before adding a battery to my bass build and it would hold .5v higher then before
Where did you buy the AGM from
Hell yea I can't wait to see the improvement
How can I now what tip of the battery
Can't argue performance is much better all the way around for certain applications. There is a big butt! On an ATV or motorcycle read up if the voltage isn't dropped going into the battery. You will end up with dry cells and direct Short circuit. You can have five good cells. One bad. Will consistently drain on the others. You'll learn that after pulling the plugs. Educate yourself before making that move
Great video like always. 😎
I appreciate you!!
Time to get an AGM battery!! Any doubts I've had have now disappeared after watching this video!! Thank you!!
Were are you getting the alt made ?
Hey Parker, can I use the xs d3400r for a Toyota Camry se 2017
Any specific reason why you picked this over a odyssey battery?
After watching this video and all the 30 years I have worked on cars. The ground is more important then the type of battery. When I seen the ground I knew that was a bigger issue than the battery type.
Have you heard of almani s5 subwoofer? Any good?
Where did you buy the distribution blocks?
Have all lights, accessories and A/C off until the vehicle is running.
Awesome test! I just replaced my starting battery with an XS-POWER D6500. My headlights were dimming pretty bad with a SIA-3500 and an X-15 even when I didn't have it turned up. Voltage is better now but I still need to do Big 3
How many watts r u running
@@anglerandy5736 just the rated 1500. I ran 2000 clean power but it started stinking after about 20 minutes so I turned it back down
Do the big 3. Actually the big 4 is even better because it completes the circuit.
Use Rockford or sky high audio (they are the best based on tests ran)OFC zero ga wire. Pure copper. NO COPPER CLAD!! TRUST ME it's worth it
Hi. Maybe you can help me. I ordered an AGM d3400 to replace my under hood wet cell. But people are saying that an alternator won't charge it. How do you charge yours? I was hoping the alternator would keep it charged somewhat and then I pull it out and tend it every so often
after my first setup.... Boss "8 Guage" kit from Amazon 🤣. I've run sky high and knukonceptz since then. I have a new vehicle now but I'm definitely gonna do the big 4
Great vid.
My question is at what voltage them AGM won't charge
I mean at what voltage is too low for them AGM?
Seems the issue with your original battery was the fact the car was driven infrequently and you didn't use a battery charger maintainer in that process. The battery deteriorated as a result losing the ability to hold voltage capacity.
Hey Parker, if you leave that tuner plugged in sometimes it can kill your battery when not driving. If I don't drive my car for more than a couple of weeks and I leave my hp tuners plugged in. It will drain my battery.
Big 3 that car too it helps in more then just car audio applications. It will just overall help your voltage a lot more also look into getting a different volt meter or tuning that one if possible with a multimeter
You should retry the standard battery with the new ground wire. That would make a big difference in performance, would it not?
Now that would be a far better test.
Hey there... You still have this battery? Is still working good?
Yes still doing great!
@@ParkerTheBasshead Nice. I may get one for my Ram... I will need advice from you about high amp alternator and lithium cells. What would you recommend? Thanks again. Keep posting cool videos. Always sharing them
Good content shows that with swapn out your stock batt for an agm and doing the big 3 and lithiums in the back you can get vast improvement over stock elec without doing ho alt and everything is ready for one if you still seem to need it you’re already setup for it to bolt up.
Each of the 6 cells provides about 2.1V. If you have a dead cell you will run about 10.7V. You may have just had a bad battery.
Was the a kenwood amp? Also what kinda sub are you running in that little space ?
Do the big 3 on your sti it helps all across electric
He knows dude lmao.
I have 2 jl 300/4 and 1 1000/1v2 which battery do you recommend?
I had a 2002 wrx, had Ohio generator redo alternator, added 2nd battery in spare tire area, worked pretty good.
This is basically a bad ground vs fixed ground comparison
Water in the wet cell, no sir! 🤣
Got 4 15 woofer s air ride but hardly no lights 1 agm otima yellow top waiting on my 200 amp alternator but it's dropping lot amps but no lights only head lights
Well turn the interior lights down just half brightness helps a lot
You always want to charge your xs power battery’s before first installation
Yeah my yukon denali has a spot underneath the hood for adding a second battery and so I threw my old D3400 in there with the oversized oem battery and it was reading 15.2-15.4 Volts regularly right up till I swapped out my alternator for a mechman 320a which now for some reason my voltage went down to 14.6 and if I let the truck sit for more than a week without running it to keep everything charged up the damn thing drops right down to 8v so I have to find the parasitic loss and why it is doing it strange but when I had the old alt and same batteries I could leave it sit for months with chargers plugged in and everything and it never had a single issue but ever since I put the mechman alt in I've came out to find completely dead batteries a handful of times and I have even gone as far as unplugging all chargers and accessories that I thought might be draining it but nope still an issue somewhere that I need to sort out 🤷♂️🤦♂️ I may just try and switch back to my old alt and see if that truly was the problem because if so that's a $550 waste of money and I won't run that mechman till my dual alt bracket kit comes in and I'm ready to install all my limitless lithium batteries and supercaps....
Who is building the Alt? Brand X is what i run.
Do the bus bars come with the screws or what size screws would I need?
they come with screws
Bro your ground cable was effed up to me once that was fixed the readings would have been similar
For the battery I need a new alternator?
Do you have a shop ?