Post Anvil Heat Treat & Assembly
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- Опубліковано 29 кві 2013
- In this video I show how my post anvil is put together. I show the hardening process for the anvil portion. I have put a larger base on the anvil to make it more stable.
The inspiration for my anvil came form this thread. goo.gl/VDtKR
My website is www.lewisrazors.com
My work is sold through www.straightrazordesigns.com/i... - Навчання та стиль
It ways a bit less than 30 pound. I was surprised by the rebound of the bearing. This anvil works better than my last post anvil, my favorite thing is, it does not ring.
It was good to see you at the hammer inn.
You just solved a problem for me. I'm off to the shop to build the same anvil. Excellent build. Thanks.
Jim Milne I hope it works our for you. If you make one like mine make a wider base. I need to make a bigger base plate for mine.
The piece of steel that I bought had markings on it. It had 4140 written on one end and on the side of the bar. Plus the man at the junkyard told me it was 4140, he is a reliable guy. I was lucky to find chunk of steel with markings on it.
Very cool. Ty for posting. The simplicity of the things you make to make more complex items boggles my mind sometimes :)
Very cool little anvil, and looks just the think for blade work, thanks for sharing.
You are welcome. it is not perfect but I am happy with it.
Nice BB drop test!!!! Thats almost (or above) 90%! Most I've ever seen!
I did do a file test, the file will just barely bite into it. I did not put it in the video.
Fantastic! Thank you for sharing this.
Nice job man
I bought the 4140 at a local scrap yard, It was a lucky find. I do not remember the price, I bought a bunch of other scrap metal at the same time.
I think you could just hared the top surface by flame hardening.
My last post anvil was a chunk of steel from the scrap yard that was unhardened. it worked OK
I guess I should have watched more of your videos. Please ignore the questions I sent earlier, and thank you for posting this video.
TooMuchMercy I am glad you found the videos.
Guess you didn't do a file test? Looks good. And very nice rebound.
Super job! Thanks
Thanks
very cool!
Thank you
There is a better transfer of the heat from the metal to oil, with oil. Water turns to steam and forms a vapor/steam area between the metal and the water. This steam jacket leads to inefficient and uneven cooling. Oil makes better contact with the metal and draws away the heat in a more controlled uniform fashion.
can we use waste motor oil for quenching
Very cool!
LegendSexy Thanks
Thanks for another great video Charlie =] I've been wondering how I could go about making an anvil to use at home for a while, Since nobody seems to have any bits of railway track lying about. I don't know how I'd be able to make the anvil part though but atleast I can make the post bit maybe. Probly beats spending 700 dollars on a second hand anvil that probably needs hours and hours of work to get it in working condition.
Another winner video. I paid good money (well worth it) for Chuck Robertson's post anvil making video. But unfortunately his process is not that replicable since he lived near a tank factory where they had surplus 4140 barrel billets. Try and get that deal every day. I'm going to make one like yours to supplement my PW, which is pretty solid, but not clean enough for the small stuff.
Wow Charlie, you said that thing had a nice rebound, now I see what you were talking about. I also agree that a chunk of steel that big will autotemper enough to be serviceable as is. By the way, how much does it weigh?
Cool
I used a 14lb sledgehammer head and flattened one end and re-heat treated it in a dustbin fire.
I think you went the smart way about it. A lot less work for the same thing.
I'd catch hell as I'd want to drill a hole in the garage floor and cement a receiver pipe flush with the floor.
I have a tire puller that I drilled 4 small holes for mounting it and I still get dirty looks now and then even though we save hundreds every time a nail is too close to the sidewall of a new tire (like 90% of the time).
+archangel20031 I know the the dirty looks, I feel your pain.
Oh, what do you figure was the depth of the depression. I might mount the billet in my lathe and turn a rise in the center, then maybe it will require less clean up. No way it will be perfect.
I was thinking about doing the same set up but with cement... would the gravel work just the same or would I get more mass under hammer with cement? Also if I go gravel like you did could I fill the gravel voids with pouring sand in also?
I have had three of these type set ups, I am sold on the pea gravel. It fills all the voids no need for sand, it becomes a very solid base after a little use. It holds up well to sledges and strikers. It will settle a little at first, but becomes solid with a little use. The only change I have made over time is to get rid of the wedges and replace them with welded on nuts, then use bolts to center and hold the anvil chunk.
Hello Lewis sir.. curious how the 4140 is holding up? Has there been any chipping on the face due to skipping the tempering? Also did you put gravel/rocks all the way up to the 4140 piece? Was thinking of using sand in mine? Maybe gravel and sand?
I made the anvil April of 2013, so far no chips on face. The anvil has seen some abuse at hammer-inns with newer smiths hitting the anvil by accident. I have also made a few bad blows and hit the face a few times.
Yes, the gravel goes all the way to bottom of anvil part. I have never used sand, I assume it would work the same. I have two post anvils with gravel, the work well.
I have a second post anvil that is rectangular in cross section, also 41?? I like the square-ish face better than the round one for most things.
Why is Oil better to harden with?
hey there, nice video. i am getting my round stock of 4140 for blade smithing in a week or so (6" x 12") and also want to heat treat it. did you add anything to the quench water or is it just plain old water at room temp? and also when you say 1600 degrees in the oven i assume its Fahrenheit?
Thanks!
It was plain room temp tap water. Yes, it was Fahrenheit. Be careful that is a big chunk of hot metal. I did several practice runs with the metal at room temp before I did the actual heat treat.
Thanks man! and yes i will take precautions and then some, i will also be enlisting a small army to help me lift and carry XD
How can you tell what kind of steal it was when you got it from the scrap yard? BTW, huge fan of your channel.
Hayden Miller one way is by origin, drill bits, rock crusher hammers, big axes, are medium to high carbon steels, but you can hard face mild steel with the right welding rod, so I use anything big, heavy, with a flat surface, except cast iron, you can guess the type of steel with a spark test or making lil probets for quench and brake tests when the shape of the chunk don't offer any data about origin
Is it really only 3.5" in diameter? it looks much larger!
+Giles Flowitt-Hill Yep, 3.5" for the work I do it is an ok size.
I dont have a heat treating i oven but I can buy a piece of 4140 3-inch diameter round bar that has been heat treated to about 30 rockwell.If i pick up this piece will i be able to heat treat it in a forge the same as knives? Or can i just use it as is?
+Geoff I used an unhardened chunk of 4140 for years before making this anvil.
Thank you! I am also having trouble finding a piece of pipe with a diameter large enough to plant the steel round. Any ideas on substitutes or where to look for similar pipe?
+Geoff I used a large forklift tine turned on edge for a while. I am luck to have a good scrap yard nearby. Square or rectangular stock would also work. As a matter of fact I had rather have a square anvil, but round stock is what I found.
How noisy is your anvil on a flat surface in comparison with the pipe/gravel assembly?
I have never used it on a flat surface, I have always used with the pipe and gravel.
I do not believe 4140 got full hard in the plain water quench. it does not feel full hard when checking it with a file. I will use it with caution. If it chips I will temper it.
lewisrazors Where did you get your 41-40 slug from? I'm having a hard time finding anything. the only thing I found is online and is 3in X 2ft and is about $200 BEFORE shipping!!! Any help is greatly appreciated!
+Anthony Dykes I got my metal at a scrap metal store in Albuquerque NM, I picked it up in person while visiting Alb.
Are you still looking for rod the size in the video?
are you serious you don't want to temper the anvil after the hardening? It can be dangerous hitting an anvil which didn't get tempered
have you ground the side of your right hand on that disc grinder? your hand looks awfully flat on that side lol
You dont temper it?
Spacesqurreil95 I did not temper it, I think that it took so long to cool that it kind of auto tempered.
Could I possibly use a sledgehammer head for the same purpose?
William Laidlaww Yes, a lot of people have used big hammer heads as anvils.
lewisrazors I've heard of one person even using an asphalt tamper...
That is interesting.
:D
all that grinding and you are just going to chip it due to a poor temper.
3 years with the anvil so far, no chipping. I have put a few dings in it from bad hammering though :) It has held up very well over time.
I stand corrected.... thanks for the video