Excellent video, but if I may politely offer an important improvement The shape of the holes dug to receive the concrete should be wider at the bottom than the top. In the sketch at 8:50 (and other times) the hole is shown as a sort of tall bucket shape (wider at ground level than the bottom of the hole), this should be inverted. The mechanics of the shape you have shown will mean that the post will eventually work its way out as movement slowly broadens the hole at the top due to leverage and the centre of gravity of the concrete being high up. The holes should be dug as though they are a tall, narrow pyramid with a flat top. This leaves the bulk of the concrete weight at the very base and in order to be leveraged out would have to lift both the concrete and the earth above it. This is much more stable. I hope that made sense. Thanks
@@soltrain7949 - Oh, thanks, I hadn't actually heard a term for it (or don't remember hearing it), I just understood it from the practical perspective. 🙂
I used scaffold poles into concrete . The cross bar was a u shaped 3/4 piping lowered into the ends then wedged into place firmly. Cheap and easy to make.
Great video! Another strategy to avoid posts rotting in the ground is to use bitumen tape the one made for roof covering that goes around the chimney and provides hydro isolation.
Awesome video. Thanks for inspiring me to attempt this once the snow melts. The other videos of the wooden posts wobbling during muscle ups brought me here lol
This video randomly showed up on my feed and glad I watched it. Not that I am building a pull-up bar but anyone who can openly admit doing things wrong and then explain what they learned from the process. Is someone (IMO) that not only has common sense but also has self reflected a lot in their lifetime. Let alone all the books on your shelf, from travel books to comic books to history books to 'Cosmos' by Carl Sagan. You can learn a lot about an individual by looking at their book shelves.
Dude, amazing video and pull up work out station. I feel a wee bit deflated after learning the cost and was a machinist for 25 years in my youth so I understand those costs but will figure out what I can afford. Again, impressive job, truly.
Great channel Robert!! I find your videos very motivating. Can you please make a video about your view on recovery/rest and dieting when training calisthenics for over 40s?
Yeah, that seems like it would also work. But if I were building one with wood, I would probably go with the wood-to-concrete column bases. That way if you ever did need to replace the wood, it would be relatively easy.
Nice work, I built a similar rack out of railway rails, fortunately I have a wheelloader for moving them, it was hard to build but will outlast my grandchildren I hope. Greetings from Germany
770 Pounds per upright. I put them 3 feet into the ground with concrete and have them sticking out about 8 feet. Even when swinging they flex less then 5 mm.
I've got a thin aluminium bar, it's rubbish for false grip (slippy and too thin) but it is a portable frame and decent as a frame for rings, plus can do flags off the round uprights. Galvanized used scaffolding tube would be the cheapest option
To improve the wood to concrete bases, to extend the base that goes into the concrete, take some sheet metal and drill a hole for the bolt, then attach a few of them them to the bolt and space them out with nuts and washers. This will work better at strengthens the metal to concrete than a single long bolt
Does that mean you're going to use 6x6 wooden uprights? That should work pretty well. Just make sure you do something to prevent them from rotting at the bottom.
@ Treated but only 8ft tall. The soil is pretty wet here so im considering bolting two metal posts to the bottom and cementing around the metal like an anchor. Also allowing me to move the whole thing by just removing the bolts. Pretty much what you described for uprights being above ground without the cost of buying the part that keeps it anchored:
@@The_Aging_Warrior instead of using flanges i welded a galvanized steel bar directly between the posts and i used more concrete to cement the posts into the ground. i also welded and screwed in a pair of parallel dip bars to the side
I have done mine the same way but I have also put concrete and two 12 feet rebars in the middle of each it's 4 feet deep and eight feet above the group and the uprights are round and coloured it red and I did it with the help of my dad and siblings.
I just bought two pine posts from Bunnings, I’ve gone fat bar, 2inch, found it at work, welded two ends and couch screwed it to the posts, cheep, had it 5 years now
A solution my town uses around town that makes things very very stable re: wood in the ground is to make a triangle using 3 huge wood posts. They put the bars at different heights but that's just for diff usages/people. Im not sure how deep they go but the triangle of the one near my house is rock solid and it's easily 30 years old.
I think that gymnastics high bars are made from a very special steel that's made to be springy. Like orthodontics wire - it tries to maintain its original shape. Anyway, that was always my understanding. Normal steel isn't like that - if you bend it, it just stays bent.
@@The_Aging_Warrior Isn't gymnastic bar designed for all those elements that you aim to do and some more complex ones? Wouldn't it allow better technique and less injuries? There must be a reason a proefessional device is so unlike the DIY.
@@The_Aging_Warrior After some googling: The flex in gymnastics bar equipment (and most modern beams, rings, and pommel horse) provides two benefits to the gymnast: First, the flex dissipates the shock load of the body changing positions on the bars, allowing the gymnast to perform bigger tricks without injury, and; Second, the spring flex of the bars gives the gymnast a extra rebound boost, allowing them to perform bigger, higher, and more dynamic tricks. Equipment innovation in gymnastics shares a lot of the credit for the evolution of gymnastics as a sport. The vault table is a great example. It replaced a side/long horse as the vault apparatus, and has lead to a massive increase in height and technical difficulty in the event. So, basically: if you intend to only do an occasional 5 pull ups and a msucle up yours will do. But if you inetnd to do a lot of dynamic excercise - better to get a proper one.
I’m curious about putting metal uprights into the ground without concrete. Maybe strapping them down with heavy pins for some added stability. What do you think?
@@The_Aging_Warrior here after searching alot I got ms pipe 4*4 inch 3mm thickness aaprox wieght 65 kg (143 lb)per pipe with 6 meter length Will it work?
Did you ever do the video on a workout space in a small home? I live in southern California also and we have SMALL backyards here! And my house is not very big either.
Yeah, this would definitely be cost-prohibitive for a lot of people. I don't really know, but it probably cost at least $2,000 (including two long days of paid labor). But my setup is pretty elaborate with four metal uprights and three bars. I think that if you just wanted two uprights and one bar, and you used wooden uprights (with wood-to-concrete column bases), and pipe instead of a solid bar, you could probably get all the materials for less than $300. And one person (who knows what they're doing) could build it. Anyway, mine costs a heckuva lot more than a year's gym membership, but I'll have it for the rest of my life.
If I was putting anything concrete and wood that deep in the ground I'd set in a length of thick chain well painted with hammerite for the day it needed to come out then use a tractor or mini digger with slings attached to the chain to haul the thing up and out the ground. I'm 55 so may take my chances with wood in concrete, and the ground where I am is fluvioglacial till so really stony and sandy, no loam or clay whatsoever. Will make sure no vegetation is above it and slope the finished concrete to shed water. I was gonna buy a 4ft stainless bar from ebay as it's outside, now I'm not so sure as you say it's slippy, I know a superb local blacksmith may pop by and ask his thoughts on making something up for me...
same argument goes for the pipe. I realy wouldnt know why you would need a solid bar. I use a stainless stell 5/4" pipe thats not moving at all with my 90 kilos. A galvanised steel definetly will have more grip. But i put i band over it cause my hands startet hurting. so thats not improtant anymore.
To each their own, but it seems to me you went about this in the most complicated and expensive way possible. Which is fine. It’s your money and your time but for anyone who watched this video in the hopes of building their own backyard high bar, I worry they will be very discouraged. Paying for steel, powder coating, all the ancillary pieces, and a contractor is excessive for many many people. 12 foot CCA 6x6s, a bar, and some quikcrete will get you there for a few hundred dollars.
Oh yes, she's a character. I feel very fortunate that there was a way to satisfy my needs and hers. If it wasn't beautiful (or at least cool and kind of badass) she never would have allowed it in her yard!
Excellent video, but if I may politely offer an important improvement The shape of the holes dug to receive the concrete should be wider at the bottom than the top. In the sketch at 8:50 (and other times) the hole is shown as a sort of tall bucket shape (wider at ground level than the bottom of the hole), this should be inverted. The mechanics of the shape you have shown will mean that the post will eventually work its way out as movement slowly broadens the hole at the top due to leverage and the centre of gravity of the concrete being high up. The holes should be dug as though they are a tall, narrow pyramid with a flat top. This leaves the bulk of the concrete weight at the very base and in order to be leveraged out would have to lift both the concrete and the earth above it. This is much more stable. I hope that made sense. Thanks
OK, thanks. I didn't think of that (and apparently neither did my contractor).
Correct! It's called belling out...used for posts that will frequently move e.g. pull up bars, basketball hoops etc.
@@soltrain7949 - Oh, thanks, I hadn't actually heard a term for it (or don't remember hearing it), I just understood it from the practical perspective. 🙂
Extremely underrated video, thanks for making this. Very informative. 🙌🙌
I used scaffold poles into concrete . The cross bar was a u shaped 3/4 piping lowered into the ends then wedged into place firmly. Cheap and easy to make.
and this is the best how to build a pullup bar tutorial on the internet 🔥
Thanks!
Great video!
Another strategy to avoid posts rotting in the ground is to use bitumen tape the one made for roof covering that goes around the chimney and provides hydro isolation.
Awesome video. Thanks for inspiring me to attempt this once the snow melts. The other videos of the wooden posts wobbling during muscle ups brought me here lol
This video randomly showed up on my feed and glad I watched it. Not that I am building a pull-up bar but anyone who can openly admit doing things wrong and then explain what they learned from the process. Is someone (IMO) that not only has common sense but also has self reflected a lot in their lifetime. Let alone all the books on your shelf, from travel books to comic books to history books to 'Cosmos' by Carl Sagan. You can learn a lot about an individual by looking at their book shelves.
Thanks! I agree. (And I think you might be the first person to mention the comic books).
Dude, amazing video and pull up work out station. I feel a wee bit deflated after learning the cost and was a machinist for 25 years in my youth so I understand those costs but will figure out what I can afford. Again, impressive job, truly.
Great channel Robert!! I find your videos very motivating. Can you please make a video about your view on recovery/rest and dieting when training calisthenics for over 40s?
Thanks a lot! I think this is the first time I've gotten a request. I will attempt to make a video (or maybe separate videos) on those topics.
@@The_Aging_Warrior thanks 🙏🏼
Take your 4 by 4 post. And dip them in tar. Then put them in the concrete. Did that 30 years ago?30 years ago. Still standing😊
Yeah, that seems like it would also work. But if I were building one with wood, I would probably go with the wood-to-concrete column bases. That way if you ever did need to replace the wood, it would be relatively easy.
Tar and I believe old motor oil works just as well
Great tutorial! Thank you for sharing all of your learnings, saving many people from repeaying the same mistakes!
Thanks! I hope it helps people.
It’s not a tutorial did u listen to the video 😅😂
Nice work, I built a similar rack out of railway rails, fortunately I have a wheelloader for moving them, it was hard to build but will outlast my grandchildren I hope. Greetings from Germany
Railway rails? Wow - that's hardcore. How much do they weigh?
770 Pounds per upright. I put them 3 feet into the ground with concrete and have them sticking out about 8 feet. Even when swinging they flex less then 5 mm.
Thanks for the tips. This was very helpful.
Amazing video bro, greetings from Mexico! 😄
I've got a thin aluminium bar, it's rubbish for false grip (slippy and too thin) but it is a portable frame and decent as a frame for rings, plus can do flags off the round uprights. Galvanized used scaffolding tube would be the cheapest option
This channel is amazing! Keep making good content Robert
Thanks!
This channel really is great!
You saved me a lot of hassle. Thanks man
No problem - glad it was helpful!
To improve the wood to concrete bases, to extend the base that goes into the concrete, take some sheet metal and drill a hole for the bolt, then attach a few of them them to the bolt and space them out with nuts and washers. This will work better at strengthens the metal to concrete than a single long bolt
Thank you sir. I grabbed 6x6s before watching and was wondering if anyone used them!
Does that mean you're going to use 6x6 wooden uprights? That should work pretty well. Just make sure you do something to prevent them from rotting at the bottom.
@ Treated but only 8ft tall. The soil is pretty wet here so im considering bolting two metal posts to the bottom and cementing around the metal like an anchor. Also allowing me to move the whole thing by just removing the bolts. Pretty much what you described for uprights being above ground without the cost of buying the part that keeps it anchored:
@ Yeah, that sounds like the right thing to do.
i built it thanks to your video
Glad you found my video helpful! Does this mean that I no longer have the best pullup bar in the world?
😆
@@The_Aging_Warrior instead of using flanges i welded a galvanized steel bar directly between the posts and i used more concrete to cement the posts into the ground. i also welded and screwed in a pair of parallel dip bars to the side
You could also put gravel stones at the base
Yo I just discovered this channel. You're cool.
I have done mine the same way but I have also put concrete and two 12 feet rebars in the middle of each it's 4 feet deep and eight feet above the group and the uprights are round and coloured it red and I did it with the help of my dad and siblings.
Nice. Sounds like it might be even more solid than mine!
Great video
I just bought two pine posts from Bunnings, I’ve gone fat bar, 2inch, found it at work, welded two ends and couch screwed it to the posts, cheep, had it 5 years now
A solution my town uses around town that makes things very very stable re: wood in the ground is to make a triangle using 3 huge wood posts. They put the bars at different heights but that's just for diff usages/people. Im not sure how deep they go but the triangle of the one near my house is rock solid and it's easily 30 years old.
I believe the wood in the ground is likely capped.
Yeah, that would also work. But that might not conform to the aesthetic of my back yard :)
I wonder why all of the DIY and park horizontal bars are so solid? It is the exact opposite of the olympic horizontal bar which is very bouncy.
I think that gymnastics high bars are made from a very special steel that's made to be springy. Like orthodontics wire - it tries to maintain its original shape. Anyway, that was always my understanding. Normal steel isn't like that - if you bend it, it just stays bent.
@@The_Aging_Warrior Isn't gymnastic bar designed for all those elements that you aim to do and some more complex ones? Wouldn't it allow better technique and less injuries? There must be a reason a proefessional device is so unlike the DIY.
@@The_Aging_Warrior After some googling: The flex in gymnastics bar equipment (and most modern beams, rings, and pommel horse) provides two benefits to the gymnast: First, the flex dissipates the shock load of the body changing positions on the bars, allowing the gymnast to perform bigger tricks without injury, and; Second, the spring flex of the bars gives the gymnast a extra rebound boost, allowing them to perform bigger, higher, and more dynamic tricks.
Equipment innovation in gymnastics shares a lot of the credit for the evolution of gymnastics as a sport. The vault table is a great example. It replaced a side/long horse as the vault apparatus, and has lead to a massive increase in height and technical difficulty in the event.
So, basically: if you intend to only do an occasional 5 pull ups and a msucle up yours will do. But if you inetnd to do a lot of dynamic excercise - better to get a proper one.
I’m curious about putting metal uprights into the ground without concrete. Maybe strapping them down with heavy pins for some added stability. What do you think?
Found a perfect video made my day..
I want to ask that i have galvanized pipe 3*6 cm can i use it for swing and pullups and muscleups?
@@honeysonaiya3836 I don’t know. I’m not sure I would trust pipe to swing on.
@@The_Aging_Warrior here after searching alot I got ms pipe 4*4 inch 3mm thickness aaprox wieght 65 kg (143 lb)per pipe with 6 meter length
Will it work?
Did you ever do the video on a workout space in a small home? I live in southern California also and we have SMALL backyards here! And my house is not very big either.
Unfortunately, I never got around to it. At least not yet...
Would love to see that video! And thank you for this one 🙏🏻
I'm working with 3 scarforling pipes , wish me luck 😌
Footings should be below freezing zone. So in some places it's 4 feet + :D
I envy the setup :D
Thanks - I didn't know that.
I want one
That kinda looks like posting for use in warehouse racks
What was the overall cost? The end result is great, but it feels cost is prohibitive, and could be spent on a year's gym membership
Yeah, this would definitely be cost-prohibitive for a lot of people. I don't really know, but it probably cost at least $2,000 (including two long days of paid labor). But my setup is pretty elaborate with four metal uprights and three bars. I think that if you just wanted two uprights and one bar, and you used wooden uprights (with wood-to-concrete column bases), and pipe instead of a solid bar, you could probably get all the materials for less than $300. And one person (who knows what they're doing) could build it.
Anyway, mine costs a heckuva lot more than a year's gym membership, but I'll have it for the rest of my life.
If I was putting anything concrete and wood that deep in the ground I'd set in a length of thick chain well painted with hammerite for the day it needed to come out then use a tractor or mini digger with slings attached to the chain to haul the thing up and out the ground. I'm 55 so may take my chances with wood in concrete, and the ground where I am is fluvioglacial till so really stony and sandy, no loam or clay whatsoever. Will make sure no vegetation is above it and slope the finished concrete to shed water. I was gonna buy a 4ft stainless bar from ebay as it's outside, now I'm not so sure as you say it's slippy, I know a superb local blacksmith may pop by and ask his thoughts on making something up for me...
The chain is a great idea. I should've thought of that...
nice 🎉
same argument goes for the pipe. I realy wouldnt know why you would need a solid bar. I use a stainless stell 5/4" pipe thats not moving at all with my 90 kilos.
A galvanised steel definetly will have more grip.
But i put i band over it cause my hands startet hurting. so thats not improtant anymore.
True - a pipe is probably good enough.
@@The_Aging_Warrior but i dont know how a normal stell pipe would behave. Probably that would bend.
I live in LA. Can you do this setup for me at my house and make money on me? I don’t trust my GC to do as good of a job
Unfortunately no. I wouldn't have the slightest idea how to actually do it (other than looking at pictures of what my contractor did).
To each their own, but it seems to me you went about this in the most complicated and expensive way possible. Which is fine. It’s your money and your time but for anyone who watched this video in the hopes of building their own backyard high bar, I worry they will be very discouraged. Paying for steel, powder coating, all the ancillary pieces, and a contractor is excessive for many many people. 12 foot CCA 6x6s, a bar, and some quikcrete will get you there for a few hundred dollars.
I would like to meet the wife. She sounds like a character!
Oh yes, she's a character. I feel very fortunate that there was a way to satisfy my needs and hers. If it wasn't beautiful (or at least cool and kind of badass) she never would have allowed it in her yard!
The metal would cost 1k these days lol
Alrite Jim Carey
Why you need to make it sound like rocket science? 2 bars burried in the ground is not that complicated, unless you lack one hand or something.
If I make things sound more complicated than they are, it makes me seem smarter :)
Some people aren’t as handy as others.