5 problems for 30 minutes! 1. Rear view camera failure 2. Third Tail light leak 2. Transmission Clunk from a stop 3. Sunroof motor issue 4. Blend DOOR Actuator Fix
I JUST replaced my rear brake light! I did find the whole housing with LED’s for less than $35.00 on Amazon! It’s phenomenal and super bright! Easy install, took me like 7 minutes. Make sure you get a plug and play one. There is a thick gasket with it. Hope this helps! PS: Ford dealership told me I get some double sided tape for my brake light. This service “dude” clearly thought he had your average chick on the phone, because he literally said “make sure you put the sticky side against the light so you don’t damage your paint”. Wait...what? Oh ok, I appreciate all your insight...clearly you are a genius that lets quality, sound work leave your service department. What a joke.
I get that too. They don't get that some of us are very mechanically inclined. I'm 56 now but back in the early 90's I found myself divorced with two young children. I didn't have anyone that could help me with my vehicles. No father, brothers, uncles, etc. Just me & couldn't afford going to shops for repairs. I spent a LOT of time at the Library reading their Chilton books. Diagnosed & repaired most of the issue's myself. If only UA-cam had been around in those days it would have made my life so much easier, LOL.
I think I eyed that one and instead went with a Dorman n out LED bulbs in. Silicon and wanted to make sure it didn’t become ugly green and moldy in clear plastic. 2.5 years later looks good still
Thank you for putting this video out. Very informative long or not. I appreciate you taking the time to go through and explain what is involved with each problem that I could possibly have to do when fixing my f150. Please keep making videos as you come across and issues, tips, or fixes.
We have about 4 of this generation F150 in our fleet, all with the 5.0 and all with well over 200k miles. Great trucks, but small issues do happen. Sunroof motors, console shifter wiring (easy fix, not applicable to column shifts), and that damn blend door all very common. I just recently got the clunk from driveshaft, but at 276k I would say it is about time lol. If you are gonna get one of these, the XL, STX and XLTs are best because no bells and whistles to go bad. No sunroof, no console shifter, no dual zone temp control (just one blend door instead of two).
Thank you for writing your experience. I got a question... I believe yes but I need a 2nd opinion. I'm kinda homeless but with money. I have no car knowledge. I got $800 scrap value for a Chevy avalanche from a friend. He offered me an f150 that runs for $1500. Should I buy it? I have $2000 to my name. Is it big enough to sleep in?
@@smear7331. It sold. It was a 2002 with an extended cab. I was roommates with my grandma and uncle. I quit my job in August because they got sick. They both died right before Christmas. I had to sell off their stuff real cheap and throw everything else away in a dumpster. It was sad. I've been looking for work, I only know restaurant work tho. I've been doing odd jobs... I'm thankful for that. All my friends have kids, and I don't know any young adults for a roommate. I only gotta worry about March with the cold n all. Best advice I can give for anyone living out of a small car... park near gas stations with bathrooms or laundry mats. Use the dryer, actually dry clothes and take a nap. Get a gym membership. Shower at a friend's house. Become a player with the ladies if you're a man. I've been crashing 3-4 nights a week in a warm bed. And find someone you trust holding your money and gun(s), you could get robbed anytime, or set up by a married couple on a dating site. Always be careful. And don't be homeless in the hood like I am, be in a good city. That's about it. I'll keep you and whoever updated on my whereabouts. Whoever's reading this... have that life insurance talk with your parents. My family didn't have life insurance. Peace.
Just a heads up, you'll at some point experience IWE issues. These are the vacuum hubs that automatically lock when you engage the 4WD. What'll happen is that you'll be in 2WD and you'll start to hear a grinding noise, specifically when you put the engine under load (such as driving up hills). The noise will cease when you let off the accelerator. This is cause by a vacuum leak, meaning the actuator will start to try to lock without vacuum, and grind against the hub. The issue is caused by Ford deciding to put the solenoid right under the cowl where water can drain right on top of it. This introduces water into the vacuum system which eventually makes it way down to the actuators, and then (if you live in a cold environment) the water freezes and cracks the actuator seals. The issue is a relatively simple fix, but the troubleshooting to find the exact component takes an afternoon with a vacuum pump to test each component of the system. If it is the actuator, you'll have to disconnect the upper and lower ball joint and pull the half-shaft out of the hub to get to the actuator, which itself is a cheap $60 part online. I love my F-150, but Ford really needs to start using their heads when actually designing these things. The 3rd brake light issue has been present in just about every Ford vehicle I've owned, including a 2007 Focus that I owned some years ago. I fixed it the exact way you did, which is using silicone. Also, in general you should try to avoid going with the "fully loaded" vehicles, such as the Lariat. While the extra features are nice, they get EXTREMELY expensive to replace, and are always the first things to start having issues, as you mentioned in the video. The more electronic crap they put in, the more likely it is to fail. Backup cameras are nice, but I'm honestly quite satisfied with the mirrors and audio warning that my 2011 has. This used to be a "premium" feature on the Lariat back in the mid 2000s, but comes as standard equipment on 2010 onward (it beeps as you get closer to objects). As for sunroofs, I've only ever owned one vehicle that had one, and I will NEVER own another. They are prone to clogs which can cause leaks, gaskets often go bad which also cause leaks, the actual hardware can crack and break, and they ALWAYS (in just about every vehicle) require you to rip apart the inside of the vehicle to replace them. Unless you are the first owner of the vehicle, you should never open the sunroof as the gaskets and clips can become brittle (especially since most people don't use the sunroof nearly as much as they think they will when they buy the vehicle). One last thing, the blend door actuators vary quite a bit in location even in the same model year. Both of mine are behind the radio (which isn't the big screen one, just a traditional CD player / radio combo with Sync). They are a pain to reach and require you take most of the dash panels off, but they aren't buried very far in. If you actually pull apart the actuator, you'll find that the gears inside are plastic. This was causing a clicking noise (similar to one found in various Chevy's which also have the same exact problem with these actuators).
Just got a 2011 F-150 Lariat myself. It has 169k miles on it but from what I can tell is in very good condition. Really appreciated this video and now I'm afraid to keep using the sunroof haha. Thanks for this, would love to see more.
Going to go look at a 2012 Lariat F150 this weekend. Only has 111k miles and on the pictures it looks well maintained. Thanks for pointing these common issues out.
I have a 2011 F150 Super Crew w/long bed. Just got it about a year ago. I LOVE this truck. I noticed not long after the "stop & go clunk". I asked at the Ford Dealership what would cause that. Answer: "I don't know". You are the 2nd video that has verified what that was, thank you! Now, to get my husband, who is a Diesel Mechanic (big trucks) to make some time to fix it (LOL).
Thanks for watching. I'm surprised they said they didn't know. The drive shaft clunk is pretty well documented in the F-150 community. When I took mine in, they told me before even looking at it what it was. All they do is pull the drive shaft, grease up the end that goes into the transmission, and put it back together. I've had no issues with it since.
@@Bamali You know what the really sad, if not pathetic, part of that was? This was just 3 weeks ago when I took it in for the Recall for sudden downshifting. I asked them about it then & if this repair would fix that. If this was one of the "known issue's", you'd think that would have been an easy answer. They did said I could bring it in for "evaluation", at shop rates, of course. They thought because I was female they could get over on me. What else am I supposed to think? However, they didn't realize this old 56 yr old Granny is very mechanically inclined. I was divorced with 2 young children back in the early 90's & had no one to help me with car issues & couldn't afford a shop. So, I spent a LOT of time at the Library reading Chilton manuals & fixing my car myself. *UA-cam would have made my life SOOOOO much easier back in the day, LOL. Thanks again for the info!
I did the same this silicone seal. I cleaned it really well. I put a even bead thin layer let it tack up then some more and voila no more leaks. My cam phasers went as well i redid the timing myself. New phasers chan's guides tensioners and vct soliniods this was done at 130 k km I'm now at 180k km it's been great I bought a used I take good care and change my oil at 3000 km I know people hate on the 5.4 but I love it. Every vheical breaks down we just need to learn to fix ourself.
Known issues, but at least they dont leave you stranded in the middle of the highway. I worked in a Ford dealer for a while and remember the blend door issues on F150s. They were also common on the Edge (I replaced around 5 of those). Overall, the 11-14 are the best all around gen, but still typical Ford with random issues to fix.
Thanks for the info about the Lariat. I have the 2005 Lariat and very little issue even if the mileage is 20035000 miles on it. I maintained it closely and don't drive it hard. My back up camera stopped working, but just very careful backing up.
Thank you so much. I have a 2012 XLT Eco and I had the transmission clunk. I brought it in to the dealer and they looked at me like I was crazy. But I had done my UA-cam homework and I told them how to lube it. It is mostly quiet but it still clunks about once a week. I have 120K and really no other major or minor issues. I change oil myself at 4000. Everyone else makes a mess with changing that filter.
I had a similar leak in my 3rd brake light and used exterior foam for outdoor outlets (cut to fit) and then put a small bead of caulk. Resolved my leak.
My dad passed in February and I bought his 2011 f150 5.0 XLT 4x4 with 80k and towing package. He bought it new so I’m aware it’s been maintained. I have the black and silver... should be good for long time with the low mileage.
Well I will say this you took on that job by yourself and fix the sunroof big big props to you my friend Great job I am handy but that would scare me Great job
Nice detailed video. I`m looking into buying an F150 from 2012 to 2014 with around 100k miles or less and had heard those were some great trucks and your video confirmed that. Think I`ll stay away from the sun roof and extra fancy stuff, seems like more stuff to break.
on the back up camera in the tailgate there's supposed to be a access panel on the inside of the tailgate. I recently got a f 150 platinum 2013. and like you I did a lot of research on trucks and the big reason I got the Ford was options. the f 150 trucks just had more things that were standard equipment in the different trim levels than other truck models. other brands have very close options but they are just that options you have to pay extra for. I didn't think I would be able to get a platinum and I don't like the king ranch. I was looking for a lariat because I thought the platinum and limited would be out my price range but stumbled upon the I bought and it's been great. the drive shaft issue I knew about because I helped a friend of mine who has a 2010. on his it's where the two piece drive shaft connected in the middle of the truck. it was easy to fix but make sure you mark the front part so lines up correctly. if you don't it can make the drive shaft out of balance. we simply unbolted it from the rear end, slid it out, put grease on the shaft snout or spline and put it back together. problem solved
I've had a few of these issues with my F150. I had the same sunroof problem and I fixed it the same way you did, it was a pain and time consuming just as you said, I also had to replace my tire pressure sensors too, but I haven't had the camera or the heating and cooling problem yet but since I bought it used maybe the previous owner already fixed those problems, thanks for sharing, great video my friend. Two thumbs up.
On the third brake light buy an aftermarket one for about $25 and add black automotive silicone around the gasket before you screw it on the truck that’s what I did to correct the same issue.
I have a 2010 f150 with an4.6!liter engine 106,000 miles. I love it. I did have the same issue with the transmission/ driveshaft. When breaking to stop if you don’t come to an absolute complete stop just barley rolling the instant you hit the accelerator if felt like some body bumped into the back of the truck. It was still new. Maybe one year old. I brought it in and when I told the what it felt like they knew exactly what it was. Where the drive shaft meets up with the transmission has to be taken apart and greased. Never had a problem with it since then. Now I’m changing all the fluids. Transmission fluid change, not flush. Flush and change power steering fluid, flush and refill all the break fluid when changing the breaks By the way they still have the original breaks. I don’t tow anything. Change differential fluid in the rear end. Flush and change coolant. That’s all I ever had to do to it other than changing the oil about every 5000- 6000 miles. Caster oil. The only way to go. All the other oil / fluid this is the only time I’ve done it to this vehicle. Oh. I did have to add time refugees to to the a/c last year. And just put a second set of tires on it today. It’s going strong. Doesn’t burn oil. Never had the front end aligned. Still as straight as it can be. I did have it checked when I got tires both times. No adjustment needed. Won’t buy anything but Ford for now on. I’ve had a dodge carb hated it and the repair shop at the dealership. I’ve had Chevy car. It was ok. I’ve had a Ford probe GT turbo. No problems with it. Mazda car. That thing held up AWSOME to of course it’s really half Ford. And a Kawasaki zx10R ninja. super sport motorcycle. That thing is stupid fast but I love it. It should not be legal on the road. Never got close getting beat by any car I’ve raced them all on the interstate. Some on back road curves roads. Camaro mustang, corvette, Porsche, tesla, turbo Honda’s., challengers, chargers. Nothing remotely close. Anyway peace. Love the Ford truck.
Thank you for this very informative video. I also own a 2011 F-150 and had the door actuator and the backup camera problems. I fixed the door actuator which was behind the radio. Not to difficult to fix. You just need to take your time. However, with the backup camera, I was told the issue is with a module on a board which would cost around $2300.00. I decided to not have it fixed. Way too expensive. I also have a leak where my block heater connects to the engine. Another $700.00 to fix. Again, I said no way. Mind you the cost is in Canadian dollars. Anyway, this information is useful to people who already own or would like to purchase an F150 in that generation. Hope this helps. Just like you, I enjoy my Ford truck. Cheers.
Those are new to me. Anyone with rear defrost heaters knows the number one problem with this generation. The left rear door wiring harness is a common problem too. Make sure you change your transmission fluid & filter before it's burnt. It's not lifetime like Ford claims.
@@moth450 funny you say that. The one truck I did not look into was a RAM 1500. After driving a FX4 F150 we drove a RAM 1500 ecodiesel Laramie and the Dodge blew us away. Drove so much better than the Ford and the options where incredible without blowing the bank like a Platinum F150 would have. We get 14-17 mpg towing and 24+ mpg on the freeway.
@@randomkadrmas2630 I sold dodge tru c KS in 2006. I loved converting Ford guys to dodge. Most Ford guys weren't t happy with ford's towing. They couldn't explain why they even bought the Ford in the first place. They say, my daddy has one. My grand dad has one. But the ford's are great at looking pretty. Not working. Most times you see a dodge on highway, it's working 💪hauling. The ford's hVe no trailers Most of the time. If the Ford does, it's squatting like a duck. Headlights pointing to the sky. Go ram 🐏
@@Bamali Looking forward to it. UA-cam has been a lifesaver in many occasions. From house repairs, computer stuff, recipes, car trouble etc. I'll watch a few videos and determine if it's a "challenge accepted" situation. Then I'll do it.
Went through a 12 pack of beer when you fixed the sunroof? We'll that is part of the reason it took you so long - you had to stop to take a piss all the time! :) Good informative video.
I took my time and made a day of it. I didn't want to screw something up even worse...lol. I was stopping to watch and re watch the process on UA-cam also. The beer and some good music helped keep the stress level down though...lol.
I bought a used 2012 F150 SuperCrew XLT at a super super deal . It had issues that I fixed. For the most part UA-cam was a big help. This truck has a 3.5 V6 EcoBoost. A mechanic said that it was the timing chains and wanted $2200 bucks to fix it. UA-cams pointed to installing a plumbers nightmare called a catch can system. I dirilled about a 1/16" hole in the bottom of the downstream side of the inner cooler. With that small hole I inserted the straw from a can of intake cleaner to clean off the gunked up valves. cleaned all the sensors (OX and MAP), spark plugs and coil packs. Fresh gas and a days round trip on the interstate and all the codes were just fine. Well under $500 bucks out of pocket. That would have needed to be done anyway
those 3rd brake lights have always leaked on every f150 I have had. put led bulbs in it and rtv black the hell out of it and I never have problems after that.. Hub bearings and drive axle bearings on 4x4 wear out quickly also and cause a leak. Parts are affordable, but you have to tear down a lot to change them.
Thanks for info. Not all your problems would happen to my truck cause I don’t have those extras on mine. That third break light has all ways been a problem. I had a 98 and I just bought a after market third break light and like you I went to the hardware store and got some home roof silicone and sealed It. It never leaked again.
This is what I'm wondering as well. I've been researching Rams and F150s. It seems any truck is going to have its unique set of problems. The more you research, the more issues you begin to uncover. My feeling is I'm going to try and buy as new as I can afford and then pray I don't have any issues. I've owned Chryslers and Fords and have had issues with both. It's really a toss up.
I go to auctions 3 days a week. I think Ford's are better than a Ram. 5.7 engines seem to have lifter noise after 125,000 miles. I would suggest when you find a truck you want, get a Car-Fax run on it. It will show the maintenance and miles of each repair or oil change if taken to dealer for service.
@@iHernandez620 I'm getting an 09 with the 5.4 with 200k miles on it. It hasn't had any issues yet other than an exhaust leak but that's normal, and has had very solid maintenance. Should be fine
@@TheTyphoon365 I got a F150 Lariat 4wd 5.4 3 valve. For 5,900 115 m has some rust but it sounds good and runs great looks clean in and out , good luck with your search
Well the good old 5.4 three valve also has issues if you don't keep on your oil changes. Lash adjusters will start to stick and the roller follower will tap rather loudly, Another issue is the chain tensioners have a tenancy to blow out there seal and the loss of oil pressure is the end result- then real damage starts to ramp up, another weak point is the cam phasers can cause rough idling when they become stuck. Brian from the FordTechMakuloco channel says as he points out all these weak points as well. He clearly states that oil changes are very important and NOT TO EVER follow Ford's schedule as the length interval is to long as these engines are very touchy when they get neglected. I my self have a 2008 F250 with the 5.4 Three valve that I had the hot engine tapping sound at 217,000km have since upped the thickness to 5W30 and use a gentle cleaner of WD40 in with the oil when the ticking starts - about 1/2 a cup full and it really helps. Now mind you the tapping was not severe but was noticeable, but I think other people's issue is that the tapping was neglected far to long to the point where major damage started to occur and Brian shows what can happen if such an event dose occur . Now adding WD40 was only done while the my engine was hot and running, and wow it really dose the job to return the engine to normal purring condition. The roller followers seem to be the weak points of these engines that when they start to slap too much the Reed Bearing will fail inside them and then if they get spat out great damage will occur. Varnish and carbon are the key components to avoid at all cost which is why keeping up on your oil changes is so important. Now I've left the WD40 in my engine and it dosnt seem to affect the regular engine oil. But here is a good tip for you - when you get home from time to time take a listen to your engine while its hot and see if its OK while idling. If you hear light tapping then try my method of WD40 and see if it helps I think you'll be surprised. I change my oil every 4000 to 5000 KM not miles. The 2020 Engine of ford is finally going back to the push rod design like its old predecessor from the 1993 Winsor...
2018 f150 2 door 8 feet bed Intermittent electronic problem with the dash backup camera the worst thing is lag it lags every time you take off or accelerate and it's never the same flag time ecoboost engine that gets about 19 Mi to gallon not good but that aluminum is tough I got run off the road and went through about 20 yards of woven wire fence and multiple rose bushes stumps it pushed that fence over about 3 ft sliding down the side of my truck and there wasn't nothing more than scratches on that truck a lot of scratches but no dents
The third light leaking is really the butyl sealing tape around the back window starting to fail. Sealing around the light only a temporary cover up for real trouble
Thanks for the great video I have a 2014 with a 6cyl eco boost and I have the clunk but it’s not a noise as you say it’s more of a hesitation. I get it when it’s been parked for awhile and then go and back up and go forward I feel it. It’s almost like I can feel it going to happen.
I had the same problem with the cargo light bought an after market and used clear silicon to make sure it didn’t leak . used LED bulbs and been 3 years now looks good and only 75$. That useless backup camera same on my 2010. on/off etc. 300$. really insane. (2010 same) dumb design I get the trans clunk once in a while but maybe 1x a year if that. again 2010 same issues. (5.7 v8 Lariat ) the DATC blowing cold AC one side hot on other. 30$, 1200 labor (part under dash). blend door actuator, 3 of them and the worse ones is on bottom of dash. They suck and don’t use the crow bar metbod video. i took to shop. it just sucked. and seems going bad again. 15 months later Known issue with back windows with power sliding middle and defogger. well defogger doesn’t work and it’s an 800-1200$ window IF you can find one. another common including many years is the cannister vac going bad. wow tough trying to steer that truck with no power window Love my Lariat. but these ongoing issues over and over, why won’t Ford and other vendors fix these.? debating if i am gonna keep my Lariat or sell. just augh.
I've got a 2013 5.0 v-8 4x2 94000miles . Took it into get an oil change and got (I knew better) talked into an oil flush . 200 miles later the oil pressure would drop when at a stop and the motor had gotten warmed up . Took it into my mechanic and he replaced the oil pressure sensor (didn't fix the problem) then drove and tested the oil pressure with his own gauge. So now he's now replaced the oil with a thicker oil and added an oil treatment to it . I haven't lost pressure now for about 2500 miles , however I've been told a hole new engine is going to be needed in my future !?!? Any one else have any advice or had this problem . I'm really not wanting to drop in a new engine into this thing !
The center brake light is not the problem. It is the gasket on the window frame. It seems to be the gasket on the light. I did the same on the light added silicone continued to leak. Have to remove and reinstall the window frame with new gasket.
Thanks for watching and giving positive feedback. I do this not for the money, because I don't make any off of these videos, but because I just want to pay it forward. I have saved a lot of money from watching and learning from videos on here.
@@Bamali yes I just got a 04 Lariat 4wd and I couldn't figured out how it was rust on the back lower corner Door but after this and other videos i know now I got to fix it thanks
These are 12th generation pickups, runs from years 2009 to 2014 I believe. They changed in 2015. I had that heater actuator problem 2 years ago.made a hella noise till I got it fixed..
Would rather have the cam focused on the truck more...easier to watch imo :) Just bought a 2012 crew 4x4 and did the basic upgrades like assisted tailgate drop and install tether on folding rear backseat for more space, 7" antennae. These 150's have as many upgrades as Jeeps!
A bank up camera should last as long or longer than the rearview mirror on your truck. It is cheaper to fix your existing vehicle than it is to gamble on somebody else old car or to pay $36,000 for a new truck. So just fix the camera. I have no patience working on vehicles so I take to a dealer or independent shop.
I have the same clunk issue in my 04 f250. It’s been clunkin for 6 years now since I’ve had it. Ford put out a bulletin that certain trucks have it and it is normal and no fix is required.
I don't think it is a huge issue, just annoying. They just pull the drive shaft and lube the splines where it goes into the transmission, which keeps it from binding up. I had mine done and it's been fine ever since, no more clunk.
I have a 12 HD 6.2. Moonroof went out cost bout $2200. Thank God I had the Ford ESP with $100 deductible. Had a leak on powersteering pump and camera went out. All fixed under ESP. Fuse #27 goes out and gets burned. It stops the engine from turning over. It's a micro fuse 20 amp found at orilley. Also 2 batteries which I bought and had installed at Ford. If goes out in 36 months they replace free. Little black rubber strips on real roof top dry rots. Not sure how to replace. Otherwise, just oil changes. Bought new. 63k now.
How did the blend door project go? Any tips/tricks? I've seen some various videos and threads on this; but not a lot of good video. I'll be taking this on likely this coming, or the following weekend for my 2012 F150 Lariat. I believe two of my blend doors are stuck; passenger and driver. Plus I have the "Joy" of dealing with the "flow through" console. :/
Seth, check out the two videos I did for blend door replacement. One for the upper, and one for the lower: ua-cam.com/video/tOfnnfenqKA/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/sOW-9-ncDqI/v-deo.html
@@Bamali Thanks! Yes, I've watched through those a couple of times and will do so again. I think between that and FordTechMakuloco showing how to pull the console I'll get it done. Surely a bad design on Ford's part (or maybe intentional!) but hey, these are the things that pose interesting challenges. How have your replacement blend door actuators been holding up?
Thank you Dan for the information! That said, with your data........I will NOT be buying a F150 after serious research!! These problems like the third brake light, WHY would the Ford engineers just cut a hole in the top of the cab where it can introduce water around the lens????? The light could have been very well designed to be behind the glass near the head liner. WOW, that took 20-30 seconds to redesign that fault! NOT buying a FORD F150 anymore, thanks Dan!
Thanks for watching, Silvia. Unfortunately most cars have some design flaws. I'm convinced the people that design them never have to work on them. Overall, my F-150 has served me well and been a good truck, I just wanted to make people aware of things to watch for.
Nice information, thank you. I appreciate these videos and your direct message was refreshing. Especially without all the loud background music. Thanks a lot. What motor did you have in that truck? I have heard nothing but horror stories about the triton
Thanks for the feedback. In my 2011, which is the one in the video, I have the 5.0 V-8, which is a solid motor. It's much easier to access and maintain than the 4.6 Triton V-8 that was in my 1998 F-150.
This video was awesome! Thank you for all of the information. You helped me out tremendously. I’m looking to buy my 1st F150 this upcoming summer, I have been looking at the 2015-2017 models. Thanks again!
Not sue what Transmission you have o that 2011. I have the 6R80 on my 2010 F150 XLT SuperCrew had the same problem you described. Might be the same Transmission.
Valentin Arzola- it’s not the transmission. I have a 2010 f150 xlt super cab. Had same problem. It where the transmission and the drive shaft meet up. It has to be separated greased and put back together. Got that done when the truck was about one year old under warranty. No more issues. Love the truck. .
One more well-known Ford problem is the rear defroster window The small piece that is poorly soldered to the rear window that slides my 2014 they said it could not be repaired installed complete new rear window because of two dots of solder failing $1100 job thank God I had aftermarket warranty traded for a 2018 few months back got home and noticed that sweet wire hanging off the window again on this truck same situation no one wants to attempt to repair it I tried the special epoxy didn't work for me Don't know what I'm going to do this time just crazy
I had my heart set on an F150 with a sun-roof. I saw someone with such a truck at the gas station. "Do you like the sunroof?" He said "NO! It just heats up the cab. Don't get the sunroof".
How do you go from one brand to another. I have had 3 Ford's over the years with zero problems. My next truck will probably buy a Ford, but I like the GM 2500 trucks also.
Good question. I've had 3 Ford trucks, and aside from a few little issues, have loved them. I had a '94 Ranger, a '98 F-150, then this truck. All of them were rock solid. However, my son is about to start driving, and I am considering passing this truck to him, since it's paid for, and looking for a new ride for myself. I actually test drove a Tacoma the other day. If the new Rangers offered a naturally aspirated V-6, they might get my $$. I just don't want an Ecoboost.
My dad always told me never to buy a FORD, sorry dad, I should of listen to my dad. My 2011 F150 Ford lights are turning on left and right, oxygen sensor, check engine, tire lights, it never ends, when I back up a hear a bad noise. The cost of the parts cost me a leg and an arm.
There's a F150 Lariats, 100K miles guy is asking 15k for. I almost want it. I rather not have a Lariat and much rather have only a RWD. Not sure if I should go for it. It looks like it is in immaculate condition.
@@HDA_III Hector, we agreed to meet for the truck after he came back from town. The day we were going to meet he said took it in to the dealer and traded it. I have never understood why people trade in vehicles, they will never get even the very low end of what a private party value is, and if they do on paper it will get tacked on the price of the new vehicle. When a good one for a good price comes up I'll pull the trigger on it.
@@UncleSarkis 1. Because when you trade it in along with a new vehicle purchase, they'll inflate the cost of the new car, so that they can "give" you a great deal on your trade in. (In reality, you just give it back on the new car.) 2. Because in many states, you can "net" the sales tax if you trade in your car, but NOT if you sell it private party. If you have a $10K trade in on a $40k car, you only pay sales tax of $30 IF you trade in your car, but $40K if you don't.
@@bcubed72 thanks, I didn't know about the meeting in sales tax. Although I'm pretty sure other than the convenience factor, trading in is never financially beneficial.
5 problems for 30 minutes!
1. Rear view camera failure
2. Third Tail light leak
2. Transmission Clunk from a stop
3. Sunroof motor issue
4. Blend DOOR Actuator Fix
Yeah, I tend to get a little long winded, and I'm working on keeping my videos short and to the point. Thanks for watching.
@@Bamali there's some good content here! I'm going to keep an eye out for these issues.
THANK YOU Matt, you saved me so much wasted time!!!
Thank you!
Guys I need help I’m buying a Ford but I don’t know which 150 or year to get I’m a student and my mom wants me to get a truck but she wants it to last
I JUST replaced my rear brake light! I did find the whole housing with LED’s for less than $35.00 on Amazon! It’s phenomenal and super bright! Easy install, took me like 7 minutes. Make sure you get a plug and play one. There is a thick gasket with it. Hope this helps!
PS: Ford dealership told me I get some double sided tape for my brake light. This service “dude” clearly thought he had your average chick on the phone, because he literally said “make sure you put the sticky side against the light so you don’t damage your paint”. Wait...what? Oh ok, I appreciate all your insight...clearly you are a genius that lets quality, sound work leave your service department. What a joke.
I get that too. They don't get that some of us are very mechanically inclined.
I'm 56 now but back in the early 90's I found myself divorced with two young children. I didn't have anyone that could help me with my vehicles. No father, brothers, uncles, etc. Just me & couldn't afford going to shops for repairs. I spent a LOT of time at the Library reading their Chilton books. Diagnosed & repaired most of the issue's myself.
If only UA-cam had been around in those days it would have made my life so much easier, LOL.
I think I eyed that one and instead went with a Dorman n out LED bulbs in. Silicon and wanted to make sure it didn’t become ugly green and moldy in clear plastic. 2.5 years later looks good still
Thank you for putting this video out. Very informative long or not. I appreciate you taking the time to go through and explain what is involved with each problem that I could possibly have to do when fixing my f150. Please keep making videos as you come across and issues, tips, or fixes.
Thanks for watching, and I'm glad it was helpful.
We have about 4 of this generation F150 in our fleet, all with the 5.0 and all with well over 200k miles. Great trucks, but small issues do happen. Sunroof motors, console shifter wiring (easy fix, not applicable to column shifts), and that damn blend door all very common. I just recently got the clunk from driveshaft, but at 276k I would say it is about time lol. If you are gonna get one of these, the XL, STX and XLTs are best because no bells and whistles to go bad. No sunroof, no console shifter, no dual zone temp control (just one blend door instead of two).
Thank you for writing your experience. I got a question... I believe yes but I need a 2nd opinion. I'm kinda homeless but with money. I have no car knowledge. I got $800 scrap value for a Chevy avalanche from a friend. He offered me an f150 that runs for $1500. Should I buy it? I have $2000 to my name. Is it big enough to sleep in?
@@donkie330 what year/model? Sorry to hear abt ur situation
@@smear7331. It sold. It was a 2002 with an extended cab. I was roommates with my grandma and uncle. I quit my job in August because they got sick. They both died right before Christmas. I had to sell off their stuff real cheap and throw everything else away in a dumpster. It was sad. I've been looking for work, I only know restaurant work tho. I've been doing odd jobs... I'm thankful for that. All my friends have kids, and I don't know any young adults for a roommate. I only gotta worry about March with the cold n all.
Best advice I can give for anyone living out of a small car... park near gas stations with bathrooms or laundry mats. Use the dryer, actually dry clothes and take a nap. Get a gym membership. Shower at a friend's house. Become a player with the ladies if you're a man. I've been crashing 3-4 nights a week in a warm bed. And find someone you trust holding your money and gun(s), you could get robbed anytime, or set up by a married couple on a dating site. Always be careful. And don't be homeless in the hood like I am, be in a good city. That's about it. I'll keep you and whoever updated on my whereabouts. Whoever's reading this... have that life insurance talk with your parents. My family didn't have life insurance.
Peace.
@@donkie330 may God be with you my friend, stay safe. Are u in California?
Just a heads up, you'll at some point experience IWE issues. These are the vacuum hubs that automatically lock when you engage the 4WD. What'll happen is that you'll be in 2WD and you'll start to hear a grinding noise, specifically when you put the engine under load (such as driving up hills). The noise will cease when you let off the accelerator. This is cause by a vacuum leak, meaning the actuator will start to try to lock without vacuum, and grind against the hub. The issue is caused by Ford deciding to put the solenoid right under the cowl where water can drain right on top of it. This introduces water into the vacuum system which eventually makes it way down to the actuators, and then (if you live in a cold environment) the water freezes and cracks the actuator seals. The issue is a relatively simple fix, but the troubleshooting to find the exact component takes an afternoon with a vacuum pump to test each component of the system. If it is the actuator, you'll have to disconnect the upper and lower ball joint and pull the half-shaft out of the hub to get to the actuator, which itself is a cheap $60 part online. I love my F-150, but Ford really needs to start using their heads when actually designing these things. The 3rd brake light issue has been present in just about every Ford vehicle I've owned, including a 2007 Focus that I owned some years ago. I fixed it the exact way you did, which is using silicone.
Also, in general you should try to avoid going with the "fully loaded" vehicles, such as the Lariat. While the extra features are nice, they get EXTREMELY expensive to replace, and are always the first things to start having issues, as you mentioned in the video. The more electronic crap they put in, the more likely it is to fail. Backup cameras are nice, but I'm honestly quite satisfied with the mirrors and audio warning that my 2011 has. This used to be a "premium" feature on the Lariat back in the mid 2000s, but comes as standard equipment on 2010 onward (it beeps as you get closer to objects). As for sunroofs, I've only ever owned one vehicle that had one, and I will NEVER own another. They are prone to clogs which can cause leaks, gaskets often go bad which also cause leaks, the actual hardware can crack and break, and they ALWAYS (in just about every vehicle) require you to rip apart the inside of the vehicle to replace them. Unless you are the first owner of the vehicle, you should never open the sunroof as the gaskets and clips can become brittle (especially since most people don't use the sunroof nearly as much as they think they will when they buy the vehicle).
One last thing, the blend door actuators vary quite a bit in location even in the same model year. Both of mine are behind the radio (which isn't the big screen one, just a traditional CD player / radio combo with Sync). They are a pain to reach and require you take most of the dash panels off, but they aren't buried very far in. If you actually pull apart the actuator, you'll find that the gears inside are plastic. This was causing a clicking noise (similar to one found in various Chevy's which also have the same exact problem with these actuators).
I think that he said that his truck was a 2 wheel drive.
I am looking at used F 150s to upgrade from my ‘03 super duty. Videos like yours are very helpful in tipping us off to things to look for, tksz
Just got a 2011 F-150 Lariat myself. It has 169k miles on it but from what I can tell is in very good condition. Really appreciated this video and now I'm afraid to keep using the sunroof haha. Thanks for this, would love to see more.
Great video! I am looking to buy a used F-150 in this year range very soon. Trying to get ahead of the repairs!
Going to go look at a 2012 Lariat F150 this weekend. Only has 111k miles and on the pictures it looks well maintained. Thanks for pointing these common issues out.
I have a 2011 F150 Super Crew w/long bed. Just got it about a year ago. I LOVE this truck. I noticed not long after the "stop & go clunk". I asked at the Ford Dealership what would cause that. Answer: "I don't know". You are the 2nd video that has verified what that was, thank you! Now, to get my husband, who is a Diesel Mechanic (big trucks) to make some time to fix it (LOL).
Thanks for watching. I'm surprised they said they didn't know. The drive shaft clunk is pretty well documented in the F-150 community. When I took mine in, they told me before even looking at it what it was. All they do is pull the drive shaft, grease up the end that goes into the transmission, and put it back together. I've had no issues with it since.
@@Bamali You know what the really sad, if not pathetic, part of that was? This was just 3 weeks ago when I took it in for the Recall for sudden downshifting. I asked them about it then & if this repair would fix that. If this was one of the "known issue's", you'd think that would have been an easy answer. They did said I could bring it in for "evaluation", at shop rates, of course.
They thought because I was female they could get over on me. What else am I supposed to think? However, they didn't realize this old 56 yr old Granny is very mechanically inclined.
I was divorced with 2 young children back in the early 90's & had no one to help me with car issues & couldn't afford a shop. So, I spent a LOT of time at the Library reading Chilton manuals & fixing my car myself.
*UA-cam would have made my life SOOOOO much easier back in the day, LOL.
Thanks again for the info!
My truck clunked removed driveshaft and greased spline with Teflon grease problem gone.
I did the same this silicone seal.
I cleaned it really well. I put a even bead thin layer let it tack up then some more and voila no more leaks. My cam phasers went as well i redid the timing myself. New phasers chan's guides tensioners and vct soliniods this was done at 130 k km I'm now at 180k km it's been great I bought a used I take good care and change my oil at 3000 km I know people hate on the 5.4 but I love it. Every vheical breaks down we just need to learn to fix ourself.
Known issues, but at least they dont leave you stranded in the middle of the highway. I worked in a Ford dealer for a while and remember the blend door issues on F150s. They were also common on the Edge (I replaced around 5 of those). Overall, the 11-14 are the best all around gen, but still typical Ford with random issues to fix.
Agreed. Overall, it's been a good truck.
@@Bamali enjoy it 😁
Thanks for the info about the Lariat. I have the 2005 Lariat and very little issue even if the mileage is 20035000 miles on it. I maintained it closely and don't drive it hard. My back up camera stopped working, but just very careful backing up.
Thank you so much. I have a 2012 XLT Eco and I had the transmission clunk. I brought it in to the dealer and they looked at me like I was crazy. But I had done my UA-cam homework and I told them how to lube it. It is mostly quiet but it still clunks about once a week. I have 120K and really no other major or minor issues. I change oil myself at 4000. Everyone else makes a mess with changing that filter.
Thank you for the great information I just purchased a 2013 Ford F-150 XLT with only 90,000 miles my first truck.
This was helpful. Looking at a 2012 f150 tomorrow!
I had a similar leak in my 3rd brake light and used exterior foam for outdoor outlets (cut to fit) and then put a small bead of caulk. Resolved my leak.
My dad passed in February and I bought his 2011 f150 5.0 XLT 4x4 with 80k and towing package. He bought it new so I’m aware it’s been maintained. I have the black and silver... should be good for long time with the low mileage.
Well I will say this you took on that job by yourself and fix the sunroof big big props to you my friend Great job I am handy but that would scare me Great job
Nice detailed video. I`m looking into buying an F150 from 2012 to 2014 with around 100k miles or less and had heard those were some great trucks and your video confirmed that. Think I`ll stay away from the sun roof and extra fancy stuff, seems like more stuff to break.
on the back up camera in the tailgate there's supposed to be a access panel on the inside of the tailgate. I recently got a f 150 platinum 2013. and like you I did a lot of research on trucks and the big reason I got the Ford was options. the f 150 trucks just had more things that were standard equipment in the different trim levels than other truck models. other brands have very close options but they are just that options you have to pay extra for. I didn't think I would be able to get a platinum and I don't like the king ranch. I was looking for a lariat because I thought the platinum and limited would be out my price range but stumbled upon the I bought and it's been great. the drive shaft issue I knew about because I helped a friend of mine who has a 2010. on his it's where the two piece drive shaft connected in the middle of the truck. it was easy to fix but make sure you mark the front part so lines up correctly. if you don't it can make the drive shaft out of balance. we simply unbolted it from the rear end, slid it out, put grease on the shaft snout or spline and put it back together. problem solved
I've had a few of these issues with my F150. I had the same sunroof problem and I fixed it the same way you did, it was a pain and time consuming just as you said, I also had to replace my tire pressure sensors too, but I haven't had the camera or the heating and cooling problem yet but since I bought it used maybe the previous owner already fixed those problems, thanks for sharing, great video my friend. Two thumbs up.
Thanks for watching. I hope you avoid the other issues.
I HAVE A 2000 F150. 250.OOO MILES. ITS BEEN REALLY GOOD TO ME.NEVER BROKE DOWN. NEVER EVEN HAD A FLAT TIRE. ITS VERY COMFORTABLE RIDE. GOOD LUCK.
DeeVee - Great information. I am looking at buying an F150 soon. THanks.
On the third brake light buy an aftermarket one for about $25 and add black automotive silicone around the gasket before you screw it on the truck that’s what I did to correct the same issue.
That sunroof wow sounds like no joke
@@Skysmeller1 It was a handful, for sure, but glad I fixed it myself. Saved a big chunk of money.
I have a 2010 f150 with an4.6!liter engine 106,000 miles. I love it. I did have the same issue with the transmission/ driveshaft. When breaking to stop if you don’t come to an absolute complete stop just barley rolling the instant you hit the accelerator if felt like some body bumped into the back of the truck. It was still new. Maybe one year old. I brought it in and when I told the what it felt like they knew exactly what it was. Where the drive shaft meets up with the transmission has to be taken apart and greased. Never had a problem with it since then. Now I’m changing all the fluids. Transmission fluid change, not flush. Flush and change power steering fluid, flush and refill all the break fluid when changing the breaks By the way they still have the original breaks. I don’t tow anything. Change differential fluid in the rear end. Flush and change coolant. That’s all I ever had to do to it other than changing the oil about every 5000- 6000 miles. Caster oil. The only way to go. All the other oil / fluid this is the only time I’ve done it to this vehicle. Oh. I did have to add time refugees to to the a/c last year. And just put a second set of tires on it today. It’s going strong. Doesn’t burn oil. Never had the front end aligned. Still as straight as it can be. I did have it checked when I got tires both times. No adjustment needed. Won’t buy anything but Ford for now on. I’ve had a dodge carb hated it and the repair shop at the dealership. I’ve had Chevy car. It was ok. I’ve had a Ford probe GT turbo. No problems with it. Mazda car. That thing held up AWSOME to of course it’s really half Ford. And a Kawasaki zx10R ninja. super sport motorcycle. That thing is stupid fast but I love it. It should not be legal on the road. Never got close getting beat by any car I’ve raced them all on the interstate. Some on back road curves roads. Camaro mustang, corvette, Porsche, tesla, turbo Honda’s., challengers, chargers. Nothing remotely close. Anyway peace. Love the Ford truck.
Thank you for this very informative video. I also own a 2011 F-150 and had the door actuator and the backup camera problems. I fixed the door actuator which was behind the radio. Not to difficult to fix. You just need to take your time. However, with the backup camera, I was told the issue is with a module on a board which would cost around $2300.00. I decided to not have it fixed. Way too expensive. I also have a leak where my block heater connects to the engine. Another $700.00 to fix. Again, I said no way. Mind you the cost is in Canadian dollars. Anyway, this information is useful to people who already own or would like to purchase an F150 in that generation. Hope this helps. Just like you, I enjoy my Ford truck. Cheers.
Have you thought of an aftermarket third brake? Like an led
I recently sold the truck, but before that, I got a new cover and gasket, then put silicon around the edges.
Thank you!!! I just got a 2013 f150 Lariat. And right out the gate had to get the 4x4 mechanism replaced
Those are new to me. Anyone with rear defrost heaters knows the number one problem with this generation. The left rear door wiring harness is a common problem too. Make sure you change your transmission fluid & filter before it's burnt. It's not lifetime like Ford claims.
Great information. Much appreciated. I am in the market for a truck - either Ford F-150 or Toyota Tundra. Looking like you helped me in my decision...
Those heating parts are a common problem on the mustangs as well. Thank you
We are looking at replacing our old 96 Toyota. I am really nervous about looking at F150s. Thanks for info.
Hopefully you bought a ram 1500
@@moth450 funny you say that. The one truck I did not look into was a RAM 1500. After driving a FX4 F150 we drove a RAM 1500 ecodiesel Laramie and the Dodge blew us away. Drove so much better than the Ford and the options where incredible without blowing the bank like a Platinum F150 would have.
We get 14-17 mpg towing and 24+ mpg on the freeway.
@@randomkadrmas2630 I sold dodge tru c KS in 2006. I loved converting Ford guys to dodge. Most Ford guys weren't t happy with ford's towing. They couldn't explain why they even bought the Ford in the first place. They say, my daddy has one. My grand dad has one. But the ford's are great at looking pretty. Not working. Most times you see a dodge on highway, it's working 💪hauling. The ford's hVe no trailers Most of the time. If the Ford does, it's squatting like a duck. Headlights pointing to the sky. Go ram 🐏
Great video Mr DeeVee. Please post an update video to the actuator motor issue when you replace it.
Will do. I'm going to try to make a video of the process of replacing it, if it doesn't make me too angry...lol.
@@Bamali Looking forward to it. UA-cam has been a lifesaver in many occasions. From house repairs, computer stuff, recipes, car trouble etc. I'll watch a few videos and determine if it's a "challenge accepted" situation. Then I'll do it.
Went through a 12 pack of beer when you fixed the sunroof? We'll that is part of the reason it took you so long - you had to stop to take a piss all the time! :) Good informative video.
Either that or take up smoking! Neither one is a good idea!
I took my time and made a day of it. I didn't want to screw something up even worse...lol. I was stopping to watch and re watch the process on UA-cam also. The beer and some good music helped keep the stress level down though...lol.
I bought a used 2012 F150 SuperCrew XLT at a super super deal . It had issues that I fixed. For the most part UA-cam was a big help. This truck has a 3.5 V6 EcoBoost. A mechanic said that it was the timing chains and wanted $2200 bucks to fix it. UA-cams pointed to installing a plumbers nightmare called a catch can system. I dirilled about a 1/16" hole in the bottom of the downstream side of the inner cooler. With that small hole I inserted the straw from a can of intake cleaner to clean off the gunked up valves.
cleaned all the sensors (OX and MAP), spark plugs and coil packs. Fresh gas and a days round trip on the interstate and all the codes were just fine. Well under $500 bucks out of pocket. That would have needed to be done anyway
UA-cam videos have saved me money on several repairs, that's why I made my videos, to pay it forward. Thanks for watching.
those 3rd brake lights have always leaked on every f150 I have had. put led bulbs in it and rtv black the hell out of it and I never have problems after that.. Hub bearings and drive axle bearings on 4x4 wear out quickly also and cause a leak. Parts are affordable, but you have to tear down a lot to change them.
Great video I am looking in to buy a used truck nothing fancy and the main component in purchasing one for me is maintenance the cost overall.
I drove an F-150 for 400000 miles in 10 years
Like your comment have a 1990 Ford F-150 daily driver my self
Great
Damn!! What’s the hell were you transporting?? Drugs?
thats awesome im looking into buying a used one
@@Falcantar moonshine😂
mine is 2009 4.6 cilinder 3 misfire is not the coil not the spark plug what else can be
Thanks for info. Not all your problems would happen to my truck cause I don’t have those extras on mine. That third break light has all ways been a problem. I had a 98 and I just bought a after market third break light and like you I went to the hardware store and got some home roof silicone and sealed It. It never leaked again.
Should I get a 1998 chevy silverado, 2000 silverado or a 2005 ford f150?
Is ford F150 better than Ram 1500?
Looking for a used truck between 09-14
This is what I'm wondering as well. I've been researching Rams and F150s. It seems any truck is going to have its unique set of problems. The more you research, the more issues you begin to uncover. My feeling is I'm going to try and buy as new as I can afford and then pray I don't have any issues. I've owned Chryslers and Fords and have had issues with both. It's really a toss up.
I go to auctions 3 days a week. I think Ford's are better than a Ram. 5.7 engines seem to have lifter noise after 125,000 miles. I would suggest when you find a truck you want, get a Car-Fax run on it. It will show the maintenance and miles of each repair or oil change if taken to dealer for service.
this is the exact market I'm in rn, 12th gen supercrew lariat. looking to buy around 8-9k with higher miles
TheTyphoon365 if you do , get the 11-14 with the 5.0, 3.5 eco or 6.2.
Do not get the 09-10 with the 4.6 or 5.4 if you do get the 4.6
@@iHernandez620 I'm getting an 09 with the 5.4 with 200k miles on it. It hasn't had any issues yet other than an exhaust leak but that's normal, and has had very solid maintenance. Should be fine
@@TheTyphoon365 I got a F150 Lariat 4wd 5.4 3 valve. For 5,900 115 m has some rust but it sounds good and runs great looks clean in and out , good luck with your search
@@iHernandez620 what's wrong with the 4.6?
Well the good old 5.4 three valve also has issues if you don't keep on your oil changes. Lash adjusters will start to stick and the roller follower will tap rather loudly, Another issue is the chain tensioners have a tenancy to blow out there seal and the loss of oil pressure is the end result- then real damage starts to ramp up, another weak point is the cam phasers can cause rough idling when they become stuck.
Brian from the FordTechMakuloco channel says as he points out all these weak points as well. He clearly states that oil changes are very important and NOT TO EVER follow Ford's schedule as the length interval is to long as these engines are very touchy when they get neglected. I my self have a 2008 F250 with the 5.4 Three valve that I had the hot engine tapping sound at 217,000km have since upped the thickness to 5W30 and use a gentle cleaner of WD40 in with the oil when the ticking starts - about 1/2 a cup full and it really helps. Now mind you the tapping was not severe but was noticeable, but I think other people's issue is that the tapping was neglected far to long to the point where major damage started to occur and Brian shows what can happen if such an event dose occur . Now adding WD40 was only done while the my engine was hot and running, and wow it really dose the job to return the engine to normal purring condition. The roller followers seem to be the weak points of these engines that when they start to slap too much the Reed Bearing will fail inside them and then if they get spat out great damage will occur. Varnish and carbon are the key components to avoid at all cost which is why keeping up on your oil changes is so important. Now I've left the WD40 in my engine and it dosnt seem to affect the regular engine oil.
But here is a good tip for you - when you get home from time to time take a listen to your engine while its hot and see if its OK while idling. If you hear light tapping then try my method of WD40 and see if it helps I think you'll be surprised.
I change my oil every 4000 to 5000 KM not miles.
The 2020 Engine of ford is finally going back to the push rod design like its old predecessor from the 1993 Winsor...
I highly recommend the 2015-2017 f150s because they have less problems than the older models. And they have better features as well as comfort goes.
Oil burn, I would skip those years.
Thanks for your experience and research.
2018 f150 2 door 8 feet bed Intermittent electronic problem with the dash backup camera the worst thing is lag it lags every time you take off or accelerate and it's never the same flag time ecoboost engine that gets about 19 Mi to gallon not good but that aluminum is tough I got run off the road and went through about 20 yards of woven wire fence and multiple rose bushes stumps it pushed that fence over about 3 ft sliding down the side of my truck and there wasn't nothing more than scratches on that truck a lot of scratches but no dents
The third light leaking is really the butyl sealing tape around the back window starting to fail. Sealing around the light only a temporary cover up for real trouble
Thanks for the great video I have a 2014 with a 6cyl eco boost and I have the clunk but it’s not a noise as you say it’s more of a hesitation. I get it when it’s been parked for awhile and then go and back up and go forward I feel it. It’s almost like I can feel it going to happen.
I had the same problem with the cargo light bought an after market and used clear silicon to make sure it didn’t leak . used LED bulbs and been 3 years now looks good and only 75$.
That useless backup camera same on my 2010. on/off etc. 300$. really insane. (2010 same) dumb design
I get the trans clunk once in a while but maybe 1x a year if that. again 2010 same issues. (5.7 v8 Lariat )
the DATC blowing cold AC one side hot on other. 30$, 1200 labor (part under dash). blend door actuator, 3 of them and the worse ones is on bottom of dash. They suck and don’t use the crow bar metbod video. i took to shop. it just sucked. and seems going bad again. 15 months later
Known issue with back windows with power sliding middle and defogger. well defogger doesn’t work and it’s an 800-1200$ window IF you can find one.
another common including many years is the cannister vac going bad. wow tough trying to steer that truck with no power window
Love my Lariat. but these ongoing issues over and over, why won’t Ford and other vendors fix these.?
debating if i am gonna keep my Lariat or sell. just augh.
Did you get a good deal? Only mentioned it 20 times
This was a big help. Thanks
You just changed my mind on a 2011 Harley edition purchase
I seen one of those for sale all wheel drive weird didnt know ford made pickups that were awd
I've got a 2013 5.0 v-8 4x2 94000miles . Took it into get an oil change and got (I knew better) talked into an oil flush . 200 miles later the oil pressure would drop when at a stop and the motor had gotten warmed up . Took it into my mechanic and he replaced the oil pressure sensor (didn't fix the problem) then drove and tested the oil pressure with his own gauge. So now he's now replaced the oil with a thicker oil and added an oil treatment to it . I haven't lost pressure now for about 2500 miles , however I've been told a hole new engine is going to be needed in my future !?!? Any one else have any advice or had this problem . I'm really not wanting to drop in a new engine into this thing !
The center brake light is not the problem. It is the gasket on the window frame. It seems to be the gasket on the light. I did the same on the light added silicone continued to leak. Have to remove and reinstall the window frame with new gasket.
Thanks for sharing,that was very helpfull.I really appreciate what you guys do,taking the time to post it and giving others the heads up.👍
Thanks for watching and giving positive feedback. I do this not for the money, because I don't make any off of these videos, but because I just want to pay it forward. I have saved a lot of money from watching and learning from videos on here.
Your welcome,I'm pretty sure there's a lot of guys here doing the same thing,including me.i save a lot of money through the years.👍
That third brake light issue has been around so long that it must be a joke among the engineers, Keep as a tradition \ tribute. Terrible.
Yup, and it's such and easy thing to fix.
@@Bamali yes I just got a 04 Lariat 4wd and I couldn't figured out how it was rust on the back lower corner Door but after this and other videos i know now I got to fix it thanks
These are 12th generation pickups, runs from years 2009 to 2014 I believe. They changed in 2015. I had that heater actuator problem 2 years ago.made a hella noise till I got it fixed..
Would rather have the cam focused on the truck more...easier to watch imo :) Just bought a 2012 crew 4x4 and did the basic upgrades like assisted tailgate drop and install tether on folding rear backseat for more space, 7" antennae. These 150's have as many upgrades as Jeeps!
I have a 2010 F150, it now has 130K on it absolutely nothing gone wrong.Replaced the battery at year 5, I live in Canada, and not much else.
A bank up camera should last as long or longer than the rearview mirror on your truck. It is cheaper to fix your existing vehicle than it is to gamble on somebody else old car or to pay $36,000 for a new truck. So just fix the camera. I have no patience working on vehicles so I take to a dealer or independent shop.
Overall it's been a great truck, it seems like all the extras are what cause the most problems.
I have the same clunk issue in my 04 f250. It’s been clunkin for 6 years now since I’ve had it. Ford put out a bulletin that certain trucks have it and it is normal and no fix is required.
I don't think it is a huge issue, just annoying. They just pull the drive shaft and lube the splines where it goes into the transmission, which keeps it from binding up. I had mine done and it's been fine ever since, no more clunk.
I have a 12 HD 6.2. Moonroof went out cost bout $2200. Thank God I had the Ford ESP with $100 deductible. Had a leak on powersteering pump and camera went out. All fixed under ESP. Fuse #27 goes out and gets burned. It stops the engine from turning over. It's a micro fuse 20 amp found at orilley. Also 2 batteries which I bought and had installed at Ford. If goes out in 36 months they replace free. Little black rubber strips on real roof top dry rots. Not sure how to replace. Otherwise, just oil changes. Bought new. 63k now.
How did the blend door project go? Any tips/tricks? I've seen some various videos and threads on this; but not a lot of good video. I'll be taking this on likely this coming, or the following weekend for my 2012 F150 Lariat. I believe two of my blend doors are stuck; passenger and driver. Plus I have the "Joy" of dealing with the "flow through" console. :/
Seth, check out the two videos I did for blend door replacement. One for the upper, and one for the lower:
ua-cam.com/video/tOfnnfenqKA/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/sOW-9-ncDqI/v-deo.html
@@Bamali Thanks! Yes, I've watched through those a couple of times and will do so again. I think between that and FordTechMakuloco showing how to pull the console I'll get it done. Surely a bad design on Ford's part (or maybe intentional!) but hey, these are the things that pose interesting challenges. How have your replacement blend door actuators been holding up?
Thank you Dan for the information! That said, with your data........I will NOT be buying a F150 after serious research!! These problems like the third brake light, WHY would the Ford engineers just cut a hole in the top of the cab where it can introduce water around the lens????? The light could have been very well designed to be behind the glass near the head liner. WOW, that took 20-30 seconds to redesign that fault! NOT buying a FORD F150 anymore, thanks Dan!
Thanks for watching, Silvia. Unfortunately most cars have some design flaws. I'm convinced the people that design them never have to work on them. Overall, my F-150 has served me well and been a good truck, I just wanted to make people aware of things to watch for.
I actually was able to do my driver side fx4 without removing anything
It took me 8hrs and a bunch of cuts on my hands but got it done
Nice information, thank you. I appreciate these videos and your direct message was refreshing. Especially without all the loud background music. Thanks a lot. What motor did you have in that truck? I have heard nothing but horror stories about the triton
Thanks for the feedback. In my 2011, which is the one in the video, I have the 5.0 V-8, which is a solid motor. It's much easier to access and maintain than the 4.6 Triton V-8 that was in my 1998 F-150.
These trucks before 15 all rust under the running boards. Every couple years I grind, putty, and spray. My 2012 XLT Eco runs and looks like new.
This video was awesome! Thank you for all of the information. You helped me out tremendously. I’m looking to buy my 1st F150 this upcoming summer, I have been looking at the 2015-2017 models. Thanks again!
2009 was the refreshed model year. The 04 thru 14 was essentially the same truck. 2015 was the completely updated new truck with the aluminum body
I have a 09 f150 wrench light on and turns on but won’t accelerate any ideas?
Go to the parts store and get it scanned for free.
Not sue what Transmission you have o that 2011. I have the 6R80 on my 2010 F150 XLT SuperCrew had the same problem you described. Might be the same Transmission.
Valentin Arzola- it’s not the transmission. I have a 2010 f150 xlt super cab. Had same problem. It where the transmission and the drive shaft meet up. It has to be separated greased and put back together. Got that done when the truck was about one year old under warranty. No more issues. Love the truck. .
Watch out for timing chain stretch on echo boost engine 😜
Skip to 3:30 if you're curious about f150 "known issues"
Lol
I sure would like to have info on accessing the ford forums so I could read about mine.
www.f150forum.com/. Can join for free or pay small fee for more perks. They are very helpful.
Great video and insight! Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks for watching.
Great video thanks thumbs ☝
Have you heard of the low battery alarm shuts your radio off as soon as you turn the motor off. Battery is really ok
I haven't, and hope I don't have that issue in the future.
HOW MUCH DID YOU PAY FOR THIS TRUCK AND IS IT RUSTY IN THE BUTTOM ALLOT FORD HAS THIS PROBLEM.
Enjoyed video I have a 03 it leaks on top also
yeh im looking at a 2013 f150 crew 5.0 8900, 175k tho.
Did you get that truck?
@@jackrock1313 no got an older chevy
@@derekcomingo2197 how's that chevy holding up? I'm looking for a used truck also
Try heater beater.
Motor stepper ... same issues on Mercedes behind dash for heating and cooling parts $20 labor $1900
Rust in the cab corners. Rust belt issue.
One more well-known Ford problem is the rear defroster window
The small piece that is poorly soldered to the rear window that slides my 2014 they said it could not be repaired installed complete new rear window because of two dots of solder failing $1100 job thank God I had aftermarket warranty traded for a 2018 few months back got home and noticed that sweet wire hanging off the window again on this truck same situation no one wants to attempt to repair it I tried the special epoxy didn't work for me Don't know what I'm going to do this time just crazy
just goes to show you to keep your 10 year old trucks in Tip-Top condition because new vehicles are not meant to last.
Yeah, I like to get a vehicle and drive it as long as I can. I like not having a car payment.
Thank you for a very helpful video
So don't buy a truck with a sunroof. Got it.
Yep. If I hadn't gotten such a good deal on this truck, I would not have one with a sunroof.
I had my heart set on an F150 with a sun-roof. I saw someone with such a truck at the gas station.
"Do you like the sunroof?" He said "NO! It just heats up the cab. Don't get the sunroof".
How do you go from one brand to another. I have had 3 Ford's over the years with zero problems. My next truck will probably buy a Ford, but I like the GM 2500 trucks also.
Good question. I've had 3 Ford trucks, and aside from a few little issues, have loved them. I had a '94 Ranger, a '98 F-150, then this truck. All of them were rock solid. However, my son is about to start driving, and I am considering passing this truck to him, since it's paid for, and looking for a new ride for myself. I actually test drove a Tacoma the other day. If the new Rangers offered a naturally aspirated V-6, they might get my $$. I just don't want an Ecoboost.
My dad always told me never to buy a FORD, sorry dad, I should of listen to my dad. My 2011 F150 Ford lights are turning on left and right, oxygen sensor, check engine, tire lights, it never ends, when I back up a hear a bad noise. The cost of the parts cost me a leg and an arm.
Power steering pump leaks on ford has been a problem since ford has been using power steering.
Hmmmm you said you ride 👍👍
Cool beans where are you located I also ride
You said ALL trucks have their issues. Have you ever owned a Tundra?
Camry with a bed. Ain’t nobody got time for dat.
Tundra or trouble.
Yea if you like tearing off top of the motor to replace the alternator
@@robertp2030 every two hundred thousand miles. But the spark plugs are not known for stripping out and blown out.
Tundra and bankruptcy
There's a F150 Lariats, 100K miles guy is asking 15k for. I almost want it. I rather not have a Lariat and much rather have only a RWD. Not sure if I should go for it. It looks like it is in immaculate condition.
UncleSarkis did you pull the trigger
@@HDA_III Hector, we agreed to meet for the truck after he came back from town. The day we were going to meet he said took it in to the dealer and traded it.
I have never understood why people trade in vehicles, they will never get even the very low end of what a private party value is, and if they do on paper it will get tacked on the price of the new vehicle. When a good one for a good price comes up I'll pull the trigger on it.
@@UncleSarkis
1. Because when you trade it in along with a new vehicle purchase, they'll inflate the cost of the new car, so that they can "give" you a great deal on your trade in. (In reality, you just give it back on the new car.)
2. Because in many states, you can "net" the sales tax if you trade in your car, but NOT if you sell it private party. If you have a $10K trade in on a $40k car, you only pay sales tax of $30 IF you trade in your car, but $40K if you don't.
@@bcubed72 thanks, I didn't know about the meeting in sales tax. Although I'm pretty sure other than the convenience factor, trading in is never financially beneficial.
@@bcubed72 r
99 f150 just keeps running bought it for 3800 10 years ago...when it dies itll owe me nothing and i w
Oops it cut me off. I just want to say i appreciate these videos ill buy another f150 when mine dies
Ford just doesn’t care about quality it’s all about profits the dealerships nickel and dime you don’t forget radio soldering issue and transmission
I’m going to stick with the tundra.
Sunroofs are good
I only buy trucks with all opitions on if