Great videos. Just picked up my first 318 ever. And have been watching so many of your videos they have been a great help. Especially to us young guys. Thank you!
Just bought a JD 318 tractor with a backhoe and front loader. Still learning about the machine and what needs to be done. This video I will keep for reference. This is the next thing I need to do. Tractor was not taken care of very well. I am giving it TLC now. Thanks for the lesson. Nice video. Ray
Thank you very much, I appreciate the video I learned a couple things, I called the local John Deere dealer here they say that the wheel seals behind the brake drum are no longer being made, they're not leaking bad they're just sweating a little not sure if that's something I need to pay attension to or just keep an eye on the oil level
if you are leaking trans oil out from behind the brakes, its most likely the inboard seal in the case that is leaking. it's still available. M48934 right around 20 bucks each.
I agree re my 317. Had to disconnect the 1/2 tube at bottom of transmission to drain it. Also the capped tube used to refil or top-off the fluid usually back-up and overflows after I add a SMALL amount via a 1/4 OD plastic hose connected to a funnel. Not sure why it does that. Tried a smaller OD hose and that helped but a more effective workaround is to reach over the rear axle and pull the clear vinyl tube (the sight glass tube) off the transmission. Appareently that relieves back-pressure so the fill tube doesn't quickly back-up. Anyone know if Blue Devil really fixes a leaking swash plate seal.
Great vid as always. The fluid on my 318 is clear and the sight glass looks full not in the middle. Prev owner must have over filled her. This fluid also runs the power steering and hydrolic lift and so on right? Would you only use a JD filter? I use WIX on everything I own.
You should mention to check that hose under the filter, while you have the unit drained, and you should state the amount of fluid to go in. Also, after change, and usage, check the sight glass after it sits a while after shut down, to check the correct level. It takes a while for the level to rise, after shutdown. Thanks, good video....
Should take a gas valve and add to a gallon cap top then add a rubber hose and a small stand to the steering wheel to hold. A great film on changing fluid
Restoration on my 1st JD 318. All Mechanicals are good however I’m wondering the filter #, and where you think I could find a sight glass? Thanks for the video.
I picked up my first 318 last fall, and this transmission fluid and the the engine oil change videos are great - Question: in going from the red transmission oil that was in yours (and I believe in mine) to the Lo-Vis JD is there any concern about the quantity of hydraulic oil that is in steering hydraulic cylinder or my 4 way 54" plow (or any other attachments cylinders) and the contamination of this oil with the new JD LoVis you are changing over to? I am also going to change my engine oil; however, rather than using a pair of pliers , I am going to fashion a tool to engage the ears of the valve in a slot - like on a hydraulic jack I have - will try to see if the Harbor Freight hydraulic jack pump handle will fir over the ears. Thank you for posting - very clear and helpful video.
I like the idea of a jack handle! I never thought of something like that! There should be no issues going to Low Vis Hygard from ATF F. I typically clean out my attachments when I get them by removing the hoses and pumping all the fluid out I can. The amount of fluid remaining in a system is minimal once you drain the system.
Those drain plugs can be a nightmare sometimes. The plug on my '85 318 was seized so badly that no pair of vice grips or channel locks could remove it and I had to use a torch to get it out, which destroyed the plug. Deere surprisingly could not find a new plug for it, but I was lucky enough to find a hex-head plug at the hardware store that fit perfectly.
I just purchased a 318 from a neighbor after getting fed up with cheap hand-me-down Craftsman tractors that I have had in the past. Closest thing I have used to this beast is an old circa 1972 Simplicity Sovereign garden tractor that my dad bought new. I have watched several of your excellent videos and spent the weekend replacing fuel lines, spark plugs, air and fuel filter and changing oil. I am ready to tackle the transaxle fluid next. One question. Where did you get those filter pliers? I would like to invest in some of those. Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for the comments! I think those filter pliers came from Northern Tool... You should be able to find a nice heavy set of the plier type filter wrench at any tool store.
Hi I just started working on this style of tractor (aka I bought one then impulse bought two more and counting) I was wondering how you change the fluid in your plows because my fluid is brown I’m assuming it was low vis hygard, but I want to change it but I’m weary if I put my plow on for winter, it will taint my new fluid. Any tips on solving it if not I’ll probably pull the hoses off the plow drain them then move the cylinder up and down in a pan to drain the old oil any help is appreciated thanks.
I know this is an older video (not really), but I spot a 214 in the background. Now are there videos on it? Or is it just kind of sit around, and not do much. Thanks for the video by the way!
I have not done a heap of videos of it. I do use it on occasion. I mostly keep it around for its sentimental value. It's had a fuel issues since May so it has not moved must this year. One day I will get to that project but it is a little more involved than I was hoping for. Glad you liked the video.
Great videos! I have used many of your videos to help me through my 318 project! THANK YOU!! i changed the hydraulic fluid filter and filled the fluid and now I have no hydraulics at all! Is it possible to get an "air-lock"? I'm stumped!
@@mmrbeef I had to take to local JD shop. Somehow I broke a pin while removing or installing the driveshaft. I don't really know how or even where it is but thank to Copes in Kinsman Ohio for figuring it out for me! Again, thanks to you for all the great videos!!
Just a suggestion. You may want to flush if you're replacing with a different fluid type. Drain the fluid. Fill it with a suitable flushing fluid. Crank the engine and exercise all your fluid motors and cylinders several times as he did when he cranked his. Drain the flush. Then replace the filter and add the Hy-gard (high viscosity... it's better suited for all temps.)
My 317 had an overflow problem too when I tried topping up the transmission fluid via the 1/2 capped refill pipe at the rear. Thanks for explaining my problem was common and to avoid it one must add fluid very very slowly. That may work for the 317 too but not knowing that I thought the problem might be back pressure. I fouund it could refill much more quickly and avoid overflows by reaching over the rear axle and detatching the top end of the sight glass tubing from the niggle which connects into the transmission. Would appreciate any advice on how well Blue Devil Hydro Leak sealer can fix a leaking seal on the swash plate shaft. Tried it several years ago and think it helped, but its leaking again.
Hmmm, I don't have any experience with a sealer like that. The swash plate seal is easy to replace, getting to it though is a pain. I am trying to think on a 317 if you would need to drop the transaxle and I think you would. That is a time consuming task!
@@mmrbeef Found one relevant uTube but the mechanic dissembled the whole transmission in order to replace that seal. Could you easily describe the "easy "way you know, or send me a link to that info?
Just verifying. Hydraulic fluid should be changed every 200 hours on the 318. Is this correct? Also as an alternate to the AM39653 filter, a WIX 51410 can be used. I typically use WIX on all my vehicles.
Yep I got 2 jd :318 tractors one a 1985 the other is a 1987 best tractors Deere ever built well over 7000 hours on the 1985 3rd motor but the tractor is original
I have a 1984 model 318. The service manual says if I’m just adding fluid, Type F is acceptable. Would this be ok for my machine? Original Onan and orig. rear end.
John Deere 318, One of the Best for sure..... I just bought a old 430 , I'm fixing to do a full service on it before I go to using it much.... I think it holds 7.5 qts in trans. Dang, Just hit me---That's going to cost few Bucks! I have some old JD Hydo fluid setting around, Be alright to use it, You think? mixing it with new.
Congrats on the 430. They are great machines. If the older fluid is the same spec as ATF Type F, Low Vis Hygard, or Hygard you should be fine. I am not a huge fan of mixing fluids though. It should only take you a couple gallons to do the change.
Just bought a 1992 322 which I understand to be basically a 318 with a Yanmar 3 cylinder engine.. I'm changing hydro oil and the sight tube on mine is a red color. Yours is slightly colored but certainly not red. It may be a recent change since it seems pretty clear if it's 29 year old fluid. Don't want to mix since rarely do you get all the old oil out of a hydro.. Any idea what the red fluid is ? I understand these take the old type F trans fluid like Fords used to use or similar.
The red fluid is most likely Type F. You can use Type F in these transaxle with no issues. The Hygard or Low Viscosity Hygard is a more amber color, as with most hydraulic fluids of today. You can mix Type F and Hygard when changing. There is also a chance you could have dyed hydraulic fluid. There is a dye on the market for just that purpose - easier to see in a sight tube.
This is the same 318 that I repaired the linkage on. Without a complete rebuild I think that movement is just there. Haha. Getting it to not creep was a good challenge!
Ohh, I see. They are a large pain in the rear on an Ariens GT as well. I sacrificed some reverse for forward when I did it. It is totally a give and go situation.
The HIGH vis hyguard is a better choice for fluid. Looking at the tech manual (which specifies all the recommended fluids) , it covers a much greater temperature range: -15 to 122 degrees F. NEVER USE ATF. BTW the manual can be found online. Google TM1591.
Would you happen to have any info on the JD 430? Just picked one up and don't have owners manual. Such as recommended oil, trans fluid, plug gap,,,exc all the basics in the manual. I keep blowing a fuse on the fuse box on the side of mower. Not sure what fuses should be there. I believe the guy before has messed with electrical... I have a thousand questions.... Also great timing on this video.. I was just needing to do this and now have the confidence!!
A John Deere 430 will be a 20 hp diesel machine. I would recommend the following: engine oil - any 15W-40 diesel oil, trans fluid would be low viscosity hygard from your dealer, no spark plugs on a 430. If you are blowing fuses I would recommend inspecting all the wiring to identify the issue.
All right thanks. I managed to find a little info.Can a bad alternator keep blowing the that fuse.. maybe the regulator is bad? or would it almost have to be a short in order to pop the fuse?
430 has the regulator built into the alternator, is it blowing fuse as soon as you turn the key on? maybe there is an issue with your fuel shutoff solenoid?
mmrbeef Can You Please Buy The John Deere F700 Safety Video And Post It On UA-cam? Because I Would like to see a John Deere Front Mower Safety Video On UA-cam
I just changed my fluid yesterday and put a gallon and a quart like it required and it came up to about half until I started it and it when all the way down out of the sight glass is that normal or would it hurt to add a half a quart?
Where does the hose go that has the sight glass in it ? I have a nipple on the right side of my transmission that doesn't have anything going to it. Thanks.
I have a 1987 316. I’ve managed to track down a slow leak in my transmission. It’s coming out of the top 2 nuts. I’m not sure what you call them, I wish I could upload a picture. They both have short stems that get pressed down when you want the tractor to move freely. My question is, should I tighten them, replace them. And if I replace them will transmission fluid spray out? I now think they are the relief valves.
You are correct that those are the relief valves. They allow the machine to move without engine power. If they are leaking, tightening them wont help the leak around the stems. No fluid should come out when they are removed and you can replace them with new valves. There are some companies that sell the rebuilt or new valves on eBay. You can also ask around on some tractor forums like mytractorforum.com for suggestions on the best place to find rebuilt or new valves. The couple places I know of either don't have them or they are no longer offering the service. Hopefully that helps some.
@@mmrbeef Thanks, that does help. I found a guy referred on weekendfreedommachines forum. He has a service on eBay to rebuild them. Apparently there are 2 different types on these tractors. He can only do one kind. I have to determine if mine are the type he can rebuild. I appreciate you take the time to do these videos.
ATF Type F is just an older fluid. In most areas it is decently hard to find. Low Vis Hygard is a true hydraulic fluid. In the older machines the difference does not really matter since the ATF F is what they were designed with BUT there is some evidence of better performance with the LV Hygard (At least based on my experience).
HELP ,😅 the transaxle on the left side is leaking oil out of the seal I called John Deere they say that the seals are discontinued do you have any suggestions
On the hydro pump or the differential? Hydro pump you can source parts directly from Danfoss. Differential you should be able to cross reference the seals.
You can use either. Low Viscosity is the most similar to the original ATF Type F. If you use your machine in a cold climate the low-vis will work a little better at cold temps.
@@mmrbeef I'm in Massachusetts. We get cold winters (but not usually below the -10 rating of the regular) but hot summers. Seems like the regular would be a little better overall. ?
think poor my hydraulic oil poor to fast in the tube got over filled the top transmission got wet would be ok to added more so it will show up half way in the glass tube
What’s the 5 gallon bucket Per quart basis? Is that 20 Quarts times the price of a quart? You’d think if you buy a 5 gallon bucket Deere would cut you a little per quart. But I wouldn’t be surprised. They usually get every penny possible from the customer Kind of like going to the Harley dealership. Larger Ag equipment they’ll completely rob a fella. Lol But seriously…I complain a lot about John Deere’s prices but everything I own on my place is green. All the way back to the first 212 yard mower I used year round and is still as good as the day I bought it.it’s slow compared to today’s mowers. But today’s mowers has never made my yard look as good as that old turtle.
Hands down one of the best channels ever! Watch it and refer to it all the time for my Deere garden tractors.
agreed
Great videos. Just picked up my first 318 ever. And have been watching so many of your videos they have been a great help. Especially to us young guys. Thank you!
Glad they have been helpful!
The best video I’ve seen! Thanks! Just got mine running!
Love your videos brother. Thank you for what you do. I snagged a 1987, 332 from a guy and I'm gonna go through it and restore it.
Just bought a JD 318 tractor with a backhoe and front loader. Still learning about the machine and what needs to be done. This video I will keep for reference. This is the next thing I need to do. Tractor was not taken care of very well. I am giving it TLC now. Thanks for the lesson. Nice video. Ray
Back and loader. That is a nice set up. Brantly units? Good luck on getting it back in tip top shape.
Thank you.
Great video. I have a three 420's and trying to keep up with the maintenance.
Just pickup a 318. Thanks for the video!
Also enjoy all of the videos I have them all playing in succession in the background while I'm in the shop
Excellent video and commentary!
Thanks for sharing, I need to do the same with my '88 318
This video was exactly what I needed. Thank you.
tyvm for all your help
Great video, thank you!
Thank you very much, I appreciate the video I learned a couple things, I called the local John Deere dealer here they say that the wheel seals behind the brake drum are no longer being made, they're not leaking bad they're just sweating a little not sure if that's something I need to pay attension to or just keep an eye on the oil level
if you are leaking trans oil out from behind the brakes, its most likely the inboard seal in the case that is leaking. it's still available. M48934 right around 20 bucks each.
Great video. Refilling these machines is such a pain.
Yes they are! Thanks
I agree re my 317. Had to disconnect the 1/2 tube at bottom of transmission to drain it. Also the capped tube used to refil or top-off the fluid usually back-up and overflows after I add a SMALL amount via a 1/4 OD plastic hose connected to a funnel. Not sure why it does that. Tried a smaller OD hose and that helped but a more effective workaround is to reach over the rear axle and pull the clear vinyl tube (the sight glass tube) off the transmission. Appareently that relieves back-pressure so the fill tube doesn't quickly back-up.
Anyone know if Blue Devil really fixes a leaking swash plate seal.
If you remove the top hose into the sight tube, it relieves the pressure and you can fill as fast as you can pour
Great vid as always. The fluid on my 318 is clear and the sight glass looks full not in the middle. Prev owner must have over filled her. This fluid also runs the power steering and hydrolic lift and so on right? Would you only use a JD filter? I use WIX on everything I own.
You should mention to check that hose under the filter, while you have the unit drained, and you should state the amount of fluid to go in. Also, after change, and usage, check the sight glass after it sits a while after shut down, to check the correct level. It takes a while for the level to rise, after shutdown. Thanks, good video....
Thank you great video. Mine as a screen cover on the bottom. I see yours is removed for the video? or you leave yours off?
Should take a gas valve and add to a gallon cap top then add a rubber hose and a small stand to the steering wheel to hold. A great film on changing fluid
It would be nice to redo the fill to a tank but where would one add it. I'd like to find a 318 to add to my 420. Great posts also
How do you get the yellow rear arm lift straps on the frame. I am trying to put deck on for the first time on a 332?
Restoration on my 1st JD 318. All Mechanicals are good however I’m wondering the filter #, and where you think I could find a sight glass? Thanks for the video.
I picked up my first 318 last fall, and this transmission fluid and the the engine oil change videos are great -
Question: in going from the red transmission oil that was in yours (and I believe in mine) to the Lo-Vis JD is there any concern about the quantity of hydraulic oil that is in steering hydraulic cylinder or my 4 way 54" plow (or any other attachments cylinders) and the contamination of this oil with the new JD LoVis you are changing over to?
I am also going to change my engine oil; however, rather than using a pair of pliers , I am going to fashion a tool to engage the ears of the valve in a slot - like on a hydraulic jack I have - will try to see if the Harbor Freight hydraulic jack pump handle will fir over the ears.
Thank you for posting - very clear and helpful video.
I like the idea of a jack handle! I never thought of something like that! There should be no issues going to Low Vis Hygard from ATF F. I typically clean out my attachments when I get them by removing the hoses and pumping all the fluid out I can. The amount of fluid remaining in a system is minimal once you drain the system.
I have a 420 with Onan that has broken rod and I'm looking for another engine . I'd like to know some potential used engines that will fit .
I don't know if you are still responding to questions on this video...but how much new fluid gets added when doing a change and new filter?
Those drain plugs can be a nightmare sometimes. The plug on my '85 318 was seized so badly that no pair of vice grips or channel locks could remove it and I had to use a torch to get it out, which destroyed the plug. Deere surprisingly could not find a new plug for it, but I was lucky enough to find a hex-head plug at the hardware store that fit perfectly.
M41129 is the plug part number. its kinda spendy at 11 bucks though. so your option was probably a better one.
I gave Deere the part number and they couldn't find it at any dealers in the region. I was surprised.
Can you please give me the dimensions of your hex-head plug - have the same problem with the old plug and a new plug is no longer available at JD.
Same😡
@@Gurkenheinz I don't have the tractor anymore, but I think it may have been a 1/2" or 9/16" thread. That was 4 years ago.
I just purchased a 318 from a neighbor after getting fed up with cheap hand-me-down Craftsman tractors that I have had in the past. Closest thing I have used to this beast is an old circa 1972 Simplicity Sovereign garden tractor that my dad bought new. I have watched several of your excellent videos and spent the weekend replacing fuel lines, spark plugs, air and fuel filter and changing oil. I am ready to tackle the transaxle fluid next. One question. Where did you get those filter pliers? I would like to invest in some of those. Thanks for the great videos!
Thanks for the comments! I think those filter pliers came from Northern Tool... You should be able to find a nice heavy set of the plier type filter wrench at any tool store.
Hi I just started working on this style of tractor (aka I bought one then impulse bought two more and counting) I was wondering how you change the fluid in your plows because my fluid is brown I’m assuming it was low vis hygard, but I want to change it but I’m weary if I put my plow on for winter, it will taint my new fluid. Any tips on solving it if not I’ll probably pull the hoses off the plow drain them then move the cylinder up and down in a pan to drain the old oil any help is appreciated thanks.
I normally do exactly as you mention. Drain it out and start fresh. Here is a video I did on it a while back. ua-cam.com/video/ga1uxAVgvw0/v-deo.html
Hey is this the same on a 312 transmission or 317? Or is that diffrent.
I know this is an older video (not really), but I spot a 214 in the background. Now are there videos on it? Or is it just kind of sit around, and not do much. Thanks for the video by the way!
I have not done a heap of videos of it. I do use it on occasion. I mostly keep it around for its sentimental value. It's had a fuel issues since May so it has not moved must this year. One day I will get to that project but it is a little more involved than I was hoping for. Glad you liked the video.
Great videos! I have used many of your videos to help me through my 318 project! THANK YOU!! i changed the hydraulic fluid filter and filled the fluid and now I have no hydraulics at all! Is it possible to get an "air-lock"? I'm stumped!
Hopefully you got your problem worked out since it took me a while to respond to your comment. Sorry about that!
@@mmrbeef I had to take to local JD shop. Somehow I broke a pin while removing or installing the driveshaft. I don't really know how or even where it is but thank to Copes in Kinsman Ohio for figuring it out for me!
Again, thanks to you for all the great videos!!
Just a suggestion. You may want to flush if you're replacing with a different fluid type. Drain the fluid. Fill it with a suitable flushing fluid. Crank the engine and exercise all your fluid motors and cylinders several times as he did when he cranked his. Drain the flush. Then replace the filter and add the Hy-gard (high viscosity... it's better suited for all temps.)
How often should you do this I just got a 318 with no manuals changing all the fluids to start. Thanks for the video
A little late but I was told to change the hydro fluid around 200 hrs of use.
What kind of pen do you use to label the filter?
Ive got a 400 I am about to do a service on. Are they any different?
My 317 had an overflow problem too when I tried topping up the transmission fluid via the 1/2 capped refill pipe at the rear. Thanks for explaining my problem was common and to avoid it one must add fluid very very slowly. That may work for the 317 too but not knowing that I thought the problem might be back pressure. I fouund it could refill much more quickly and avoid overflows by reaching over the rear axle and detatching the top end of the sight glass tubing from the niggle which connects into the transmission.
Would appreciate any advice on how well Blue Devil Hydro Leak sealer can fix a leaking seal on the swash plate shaft. Tried it several years ago and think it helped, but its leaking again.
Hmmm, I don't have any experience with a sealer like that. The swash plate seal is easy to replace, getting to it though is a pain. I am trying to think on a 317 if you would need to drop the transaxle and I think you would. That is a time consuming task!
@@mmrbeef Found one relevant uTube but the mechanic dissembled the whole transmission in order to replace that seal. Could you easily describe the "easy "way you know, or send me a link to that info?
Just verifying. Hydraulic fluid should be changed every 200 hours on the 318. Is this correct? Also as an alternate to the AM39653 filter, a WIX 51410 can be used. I typically use WIX on all my vehicles.
Yep I got 2 jd :318 tractors one a 1985 the other is a 1987 best tractors Deere ever built well over 7000 hours on the 1985 3rd motor but the tractor is original
Try making a line to the gallon jug and add a valve for filling.
How often should you change the fluid?
I have a 1984 model 318. The service manual says if I’m just adding fluid, Type F is acceptable. Would this be ok for my machine? Original Onan and orig. rear end.
Type F is fine for these machines.
John Deere 318, One of the Best for sure..... I just bought a old 430 , I'm fixing to do a full service on it before I go to using it much.... I think it holds 7.5 qts in trans. Dang, Just hit me---That's going to cost few Bucks! I have some old JD Hydo fluid setting around, Be alright to use it, You think? mixing it with new.
Congrats on the 430. They are great machines. If the older fluid is the same spec as ATF Type F, Low Vis Hygard, or Hygard you should be fine. I am not a huge fan of mixing fluids though. It should only take you a couple gallons to do the change.
@@mmrbeef Filter the old fluid thru cheesecloth first.
How can you tell when the fluid is full?
Just bought a 1992 322 which I understand to be basically a 318 with a Yanmar 3 cylinder engine.. I'm changing hydro oil and the sight tube on mine is a red color. Yours is slightly colored but certainly not red. It may be a recent change since it seems pretty clear if it's 29 year old fluid. Don't want to mix since rarely do you get all the old oil out of a hydro.. Any idea what the red fluid is ? I understand these take the old type F trans fluid like Fords used to use or similar.
The red fluid is most likely Type F. You can use Type F in these transaxle with no issues. The Hygard or Low Viscosity Hygard is a more amber color, as with most hydraulic fluids of today. You can mix Type F and Hygard when changing. There is also a chance you could have dyed hydraulic fluid. There is a dye on the market for just that purpose - easier to see in a sight tube.
There is a lot of empty movement in the forward direction of the lever. Are the eccentric cams out of adjustment?
This is the same 318 that I repaired the linkage on. Without a complete rebuild I think that movement is just there. Haha. Getting it to not creep was a good challenge!
Ohh, I see. They are a large pain in the rear on an Ariens GT as well. I sacrificed some reverse for forward when I did it. It is totally a give and go situation.
The HIGH vis hyguard is a better choice for fluid. Looking at the tech manual (which specifies all the recommended fluids) , it covers a much greater temperature range: -15 to 122 degrees F. NEVER USE ATF. BTW the manual can be found online. Google TM1591.
unless you are in the northern states and work your machine in the winter, go with the higher viscosity J20C.
Would you happen to have any info on the JD 430? Just picked one up and don't have owners manual. Such as recommended oil, trans fluid, plug gap,,,exc all the basics in the manual. I keep blowing a fuse on the fuse box on the side of mower. Not sure what fuses should be there. I believe the guy before has messed with electrical... I have a thousand questions.... Also great timing on this video.. I was just needing to do this and now have the confidence!!
A John Deere 430 will be a 20 hp diesel machine. I would recommend the following: engine oil - any 15W-40 diesel oil, trans fluid would be low viscosity hygard from your dealer, no spark plugs on a 430. If you are blowing fuses I would recommend inspecting all the wiring to identify the issue.
All right thanks. I managed to find a little info.Can a bad alternator keep blowing the that fuse.. maybe the regulator is bad? or would it almost have to be a short in order to pop the fuse?
Actually im not sure if it has an internal or external regulator.
430 has the regulator built into the alternator, is it blowing fuse as soon as you turn the key on? maybe there is an issue with your fuel shutoff solenoid?
mmrbeef Can You Please Buy The John Deere F700 Safety Video And Post It On UA-cam? Because I Would like to see a John Deere Front Mower Safety Video On UA-cam
I just changed my fluid yesterday and put a gallon and a quart like it required and it came up to about half until I started it and it when all the way down out of the sight glass is that normal or would it hurt to add a half a quart?
The fuild loss probably is a result of the filter filling up. I'd fill it back up to the proper level in the sight glass.
@@mmrbeef thank you would you recommend to the top of the sight glass or to the half
Where does the hose go that has the sight glass in it ? I have a nipple on the right side of my transmission that doesn't have anything going to it. Thanks.
That would be the end for the sight tube. Sorry for the delay in my reply!
@@mmrbeef Thanks again. I was able to go online to the Deere website and get the routing diagram.
I have a 1987 316. I’ve managed to track down a slow leak in my transmission. It’s coming out of the top 2 nuts. I’m not sure what you call them, I wish I could upload a picture. They both have short stems that get pressed down when you want the tractor to move freely. My question is, should I tighten them, replace them. And if I replace them will transmission fluid spray out? I now think they are the relief valves.
You are correct that those are the relief valves. They allow the machine to move without engine power. If they are leaking, tightening them wont help the leak around the stems. No fluid should come out when they are removed and you can replace them with new valves. There are some companies that sell the rebuilt or new valves on eBay. You can also ask around on some tractor forums like mytractorforum.com for suggestions on the best place to find rebuilt or new valves. The couple places I know of either don't have them or they are no longer offering the service. Hopefully that helps some.
@@mmrbeef Thanks, that does help. I found a guy referred on weekendfreedommachines forum. He has a service on eBay to rebuild them. Apparently there are 2 different types on these tractors. He can only do one kind. I have to determine if mine are the type he can rebuild. I appreciate you take the time to do these videos.
that fluid also is shared for the power steering, correct?
Correct
The question begs to be asked. What is the difference between Low Vis Hy Guard and ATF? Thank you, Chesapeake Bob
ATF Type F is just an older fluid. In most areas it is decently hard to find. Low Vis Hygard is a true hydraulic fluid. In the older machines the difference does not really matter since the ATF F is what they were designed with BUT there is some evidence of better performance with the LV Hygard (At least based on my experience).
HELP ,😅 the transaxle on the left side is leaking oil out of the seal I called John Deere they say that the seals are discontinued do you have any suggestions
On the hydro pump or the differential? Hydro pump you can source parts directly from Danfoss. Differential you should be able to cross reference the seals.
@@mmrbeef can you tell me what the two valves on top of the pump do, there is a Lever that runs across it
@@mmrbeef as we speak I'm dropping the transaxle to replace all seals and bearings
Would it help to warm the fluid a bit first to get it in faster ?
You could but even when you do this mid-summer it’s still a slow process. Just one of those deals.
If you remove the top hose into the sight tube, it relieves the pressure and you can fill as fast as you can pour.
Why low-vis vs regular hyguard?
You can use either. Low Viscosity is the most similar to the original ATF Type F. If you use your machine in a cold climate the low-vis will work a little better at cold temps.
@@mmrbeef I'm in Massachusetts. We get cold winters (but not usually below the -10 rating of the regular) but hot summers. Seems like the regular would be a little better overall. ?
@@TheTreegodfather yep! Regular temp range is -14 to 122 Faranheit. Can't beat that.
think poor my hydraulic oil poor to fast in the tube got over filled the top transmission got wet would be ok to added more so it will show up half way in the glass tube
What’s the 5 gallon bucket Per quart basis? Is that 20 Quarts times the price of a quart? You’d think if you buy a 5 gallon bucket Deere would cut you a little per quart. But I wouldn’t be surprised. They usually get every penny possible from the customer Kind of like going to the Harley dealership. Larger Ag equipment they’ll completely rob a fella. Lol
But seriously…I complain a lot about John Deere’s prices but everything I own on my place is green. All the way back to the first 212 yard mower I used year round and is still as good as the day I bought it.it’s slow compared to today’s mowers. But today’s mowers has never made my yard look as good as that old turtle.
You forgot the 317.
Changing the transaxle oil in a 317 is very different than an open frames. I will actually be doing a video on this in the near future.