I have a 318, and when I first got it last year, it ran perfectly. Then suddenly it began to act EXACTLY as you describe, to a 'T'. So I bought a cheap Chinese carb- and it never really ran like it did when I first got it. It STILL did exactly as you describe, although it at least ran and was usable. Then two weeks ago I got the OEM carb back out and cleaned the jets. The carb interior was fairly clean, and in both jets, I could see thru the holes. But I cleaned them anyway using thin copper wire. I also cleaned carefully and polished the needle valve seat. I reinstalled the carb- and she's been running perfectly since. No governor lag issues. No more having to find that 'just barely closed a tiny bit' choke setting to make it run nice. Now, just like when I first got it- full choke to start then immediately push choke all the way back in- and she's ready to rock at any throttle or load. Oddly, now, my fuel filter stays full. It used to drain back partially. I think the crap Chinese carb wasn't fully closing the needle valve with a full bowl. Who knows. I use it for mowing occasionally, altho I bought it to plow using the 4 waye hydraulic blade. I have a JD playlist on my ham radio channel if you or anyone wants to see. Awesome video! Chuck in Michigan
It’s very fascinating to hear your insight, Chuck! I often neglect the physical cleaning of passages and opt for a combination of chemical and air instead. Maybe this is worth a second look 🤔
@@lobsterbox20 I'm like you. lol. But this time I had to find out, cuz I missed the way 'JeD' ran when I first got him. It shocked me what a difference it made. It made the beast a completely new machine.. made it work the way it did when I first got it a couple years ago. Your video is awesome. I love the way you film and edit. Have a great week! :)
Thank you for the tip on the spark plug heat range issue. Sure enough, I see I had put #5 heat range in my 322 after crossing the original manual's BPR4BS. It does not start very easy in the cold. Going to pick up some #4's.
Great video. Have not seen one in a while. Just a thought on the carb issue. I would adjust the main jet in the carb a bit richer. That may take that stumbling away. If it has a main jet. Never seen or worked on one of those. My John Deere 140H3 has a Kohler K321 engine. Adjustment on the main jet is, run at full throttle, warm engine up, adjust main jet lean till engine changes tone, then adjust to the rich side till engine tone changes. Count how many turns between the lean and rich adjustment. Then adjust jet to the middle setting. Then adjust jet to the rich side about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. That takes the stumble out of a Kohler. May or may not work on yours. Any videos of the Case 446. I have one of those too. Mine has a snow caster on it. Have a good day.
I thank you for Your spark plug info!!! I have a 317 that has always had starting issues. I rebuilt it completely trying to solve the issue. Low and behold I have a #7 heat range plug in it so I will be looking to get those swapped out
@@lobsterbox20 I will have a look, I managed to print off a manual last year when I rebuilt it so I could get my clearances but never even thought about the spark plugs. I unfortunately have the KT 17 series 1 in my tractor but think I should be fine as long as I stay away from steep hills. Do you have any recommendations for tractor scrap yards? I'm also from alberta, wetaskiwin to be exact and wouldn't mind looking for some parts.
The MEK will do a good job of dissolving organic stuff (oil, varnish, etc) but won't touch oxides (rust/corrosion coatings and particles). If you suspect any corrosion products could be clogging any jets or passages, you need to use acid to dissolve them. The best way is to boil the disassembled carb in a mild acid, like vinegar or lemon juice. I had a carb that I'd cleaned with solvent several times that still constantly ran lean, so I knew it wasn't running lean due to organic stuff. I boiled it in vinegar for about 10 minutes (do this outside lol) and it ran like a champ afterwards. Boiling does 2 things; a) the acid works faster when it's hot, and b) the bubbling action helps move the acid around and through the passages in the carb.
Love these vids man, I have a 316 John Deere with a 20 horsepower Linamar LX790 motor in it. I have the same blade and snowblower as you do I live in Canada, Saskatchewan and I hardly use it I only have 350 hours on it and I want to hop back on it by just watching this video
Had a very similar spark plug issue with my '79 Kawasaki motorcycle. Manual calls for NGK B8ES, I switched over to a B6ES. Could not get the bike to run at all prior to that
Did you by chance have a lockout valve on the rear lift cylinder when you ran the power angle cylinder? The 300 series have a known "issue" where the angle is affected and slow due to the hydraulic flow being shared between the rear cylinder and the front remotes for angling. I have a 4 way on my 318 and have never had an issue pushing very heavy snow without losing angle settings
when its that cold the mixture is going to be lean. colder more dense oxygen rich air even a brand new properly adjusted carb is going to have trouble at -15c(5f) especially on todays blended fuel
Any chance you have a part number for the hydraulic portion of the blade? Not the mounting bracket to the tractor nor the blade, just the middle hydraulic part.
I have a Craftsman T240 Turn Tight tractor 5" turning ..Kohler 7000 series 22 horsepower 725cc V Twin engine...dry weight is 630 pounds it does fantastic plowing
I would never go a two-way blade. I would only use four-way blade. I’ve been using a four-way blade for 37 years with no trouble not one and I have been through some of the biggest winters in northern Wisconsin I’ve ever seen and the tractor. I have just right through it. The angle never changes, you just had a bad deal when you bought yours
lol, I love the condescension. There are no adjustments on the carburetor aside from the idle jet, and I do mention in the video that, once the engine is fully warmed up, the throttle response is better.
I have a 318, and when I first got it last year, it ran perfectly. Then suddenly it began to act EXACTLY as you describe, to a 'T'. So I bought a cheap Chinese carb- and it never really ran like it did when I first got it. It STILL did exactly as you describe, although it at least ran and was usable. Then two weeks ago I got the OEM carb back out and cleaned the jets. The carb interior was fairly clean, and in both jets, I could see thru the holes. But I cleaned them anyway using thin copper wire. I also cleaned carefully and polished the needle valve seat. I reinstalled the carb- and she's been running perfectly since. No governor lag issues. No more having to find that 'just barely closed a tiny bit' choke setting to make it run nice. Now, just like when I first got it- full choke to start then immediately push choke all the way back in- and she's ready to rock at any throttle or load.
Oddly, now, my fuel filter stays full. It used to drain back partially. I think the crap Chinese carb wasn't fully closing the needle valve with a full bowl. Who knows.
I use it for mowing occasionally, altho I bought it to plow using the 4 waye hydraulic blade. I have a JD playlist on my ham radio channel if you or anyone wants to see.
Awesome video!
Chuck in Michigan
It’s very fascinating to hear your insight, Chuck! I often neglect the physical cleaning of passages and opt for a combination of chemical and air instead. Maybe this is worth a second look 🤔
@@lobsterbox20 I'm like you. lol. But this time I had to find out, cuz I missed the way 'JeD' ran when I first got him. It shocked me what a difference it made. It made the beast a completely new machine.. made it work the way it did when I first got it a couple years ago.
Your video is awesome. I love the way you film and edit. Have a great week! :)
Actually a very nice tractor for these types of things!
Thank you for the tip on the spark plug heat range issue. Sure enough, I see I had put #5 heat range in my 322 after crossing the original manual's BPR4BS. It does not start very easy in the cold. Going to pick up some #4's.
Great video. I am sure it is running lean. Carb should be recleaned or install a larger main jet.
Great video. Have not seen one in a while.
Just a thought on the carb issue. I would adjust the main jet in the carb a bit richer. That may take that stumbling away. If it has a main jet. Never seen or worked on one of those. My John Deere 140H3 has a Kohler K321 engine. Adjustment on the main jet is, run at full throttle, warm engine up, adjust main jet lean till engine changes tone, then adjust to the rich side till engine tone changes. Count how many turns between the lean and rich adjustment. Then adjust jet to the middle setting. Then adjust jet to the rich side about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. That takes the stumble out of a Kohler. May or may not work on yours.
Any videos of the Case 446. I have one of those too. Mine has a snow caster on it.
Have a good day.
I thank you for Your spark plug info!!! I have a 317 that has always had starting issues. I rebuilt it completely trying to solve the issue. Low and behold I have a #7 heat range plug in it so I will be looking to get those swapped out
I’m really glad that helped you! Make sure to find the page from the original owners manual, probably through Kohler, for the spark plug #.
@@lobsterbox20 I will have a look, I managed to print off a manual last year when I rebuilt it so I could get my clearances but never even thought about the spark plugs. I unfortunately have the KT 17 series 1 in my tractor but think I should be fine as long as I stay away from steep hills. Do you have any recommendations for tractor scrap yards? I'm also from alberta, wetaskiwin to be exact and wouldn't mind looking for some parts.
My 322 came with the 4 way 54" plow and I really enjoy it.
The MEK will do a good job of dissolving organic stuff (oil, varnish, etc) but won't touch oxides (rust/corrosion coatings and particles). If you suspect any corrosion products could be clogging any jets or passages, you need to use acid to dissolve them. The best way is to boil the disassembled carb in a mild acid, like vinegar or lemon juice. I had a carb that I'd cleaned with solvent several times that still constantly ran lean, so I knew it wasn't running lean due to organic stuff. I boiled it in vinegar for about 10 minutes (do this outside lol) and it ran like a champ afterwards. Boiling does 2 things; a) the acid works faster when it's hot, and b) the bubbling action helps move the acid around and through the passages in the carb.
Love these vids man, I have a 316 John Deere with a 20 horsepower Linamar LX790 motor in it. I have the same blade and snowblower as you do
I live in Canada, Saskatchewan and I hardly use it I only have 350 hours on it and I want to hop back on it by just watching this video
350 hours, minty! I’m the same way too - every time it snows I get excited.
@@lobsterbox20 Same it is kind of saddening just to let it sit there lifeless
I have a 318 with a four way blade, the angle cylinder is a little weak but I make it work. Ohh, I can’t wait for winter now😂
Had a very similar spark plug issue with my '79 Kawasaki motorcycle. Manual calls for NGK B8ES, I switched over to a B6ES. Could not get the bike to run at all prior to that
This is a visually cool video to watch, good job! Love that john deere! 👍
Thanks for the video.
There's something wrong with that engine, I've had a few JD Kawasaki's and none did that in the cold or heat.
Not as cold here, but all my machines require different fiddily choke settings on cold starts. Very relaxing video!
Glad to hear you enjoyed the video Larry. I enjoy yours, along with your many posts on MyTractorForum over the years!
Did you by chance have a lockout valve on the rear lift cylinder when you ran the power angle cylinder? The 300 series have a known "issue" where the angle is affected and slow due to the hydraulic flow being shared between the rear cylinder and the front remotes for angling. I have a 4 way on my 318 and have never had an issue pushing very heavy snow without losing angle settings
when its that cold the mixture is going to be lean. colder more dense oxygen rich air even a brand new properly adjusted carb is going to have trouble at -15c(5f) especially on todays blended fuel
Any chance you have a part number for the hydraulic portion of the blade? Not the mounting bracket to the tractor nor the blade, just the middle hydraulic part.
Found it? (AM31362)
I have a Craftsman T240 Turn Tight tractor 5" turning ..Kohler 7000 series 22 horsepower 725cc V Twin engine...dry weight is 630 pounds it does fantastic plowing
Side edgers would help a great deal.
I need a hydrostatic foot-control and power lift/angle. Maybe one day lol
I fabbed a manual-angle from seat for my bolens snowplow that I adapted to my Simplicity, definitely nice for the smaller driveways.
I would never go a two-way blade. I would only use four-way blade. I’ve been using a four-way blade for 37 years with no trouble not one and I have been through some of the biggest winters in northern Wisconsin I’ve ever seen and the tractor. I have just right through it. The angle never changes, you just had a bad deal when you bought yours
Lacquer thinner tends to swell plastic parts, gaskets,ect....
Wheres the choke ?
Is it a diesel
Your carburetor is adjusted wrong or you didn't let it warm up all the way quit making excuses
lol, I love the condescension. There are no adjustments on the carburetor aside from the idle jet, and I do mention in the video that, once the engine is fully warmed up, the throttle response is better.
Rhett
18 minutes? I can do better than that with a shovel.
🤣