Currently waiting to build Flatbox No. 2 and seeing this on the feed was a pleasant surprise. Recommend anyone who is interested to try it out and like SGF said, they are now selling individual Flatbox Rev 4 boards that should be compatible with most of the cases made by the community.
Very cool. As some people have noted in the comments, it seems that 3D printed fightboxes are becoming more and more like the future. Allows for a lot of versatility too. As always, awesome vid!
So cool to see this! Would love to see more people making their own flatbox-style controllers, and this kind of tutorial is sorely needed for that! We're also going to start selling individual PCBs for our Bridget MX (flatbox rev4-forked) controller soon :)
I just made my own controller using a pico pie running 2040-ce and printed the parts. It takes some thinking and planning but it's worth it if you have the patience. Works for PC, Xbox, Switch, and PS4. it was about $20-$25 worth of parts.
What a coincidence, I was looking into making my own flatbox to test out a stickless controller just last week, but it ended up being too expensive since I live in a third world country with no way to get the parts for cheap, plus the process looked way more involved compared to the fightstick I built a few years ago. Ended up picking a fully assembled flatbox from China for around $50 USD, currently waiting for it to arrive. Cool video!
I got one of those, too, for similar reasons. Mine is clearly a knockoff running GP2040-CE, but it's built well enough and even has an OLED screen. Sometimes the buttons get stuck, which I still haven't figured out if it's an issue with the low profile Cherry reds or the button keycaps. Taking my time, but I think I will still try DIY-ing my own controller because I'm not a huge fan of the "standard" layout for all-button controllers.
@@ZovcDrafts Those OLED screens are cool, but I would hate to have buttons get stuck. That's a major con for me. I agree with you on the standard all-button layouts. I like it when they spread things out a bit more. I'm also excited to see some future options with some atypical button placements for Drive Impact-type stuff. Good luck on your DIY controller! Tag me on r/fightsticks when you finish! Thanks for watching.
I thought those files looked familiar! I was inspired to make a variant of this with all 30mm buttons except for the left, right and down. I highly recommend the original design. Excellent documentation and well made source files.
Oh, this is fantastic. Hope more people see it. I remember poring over Slagcoin pages trying to figure out how to hack pads into all-button controllers, so it's fantastic to see the progression of Hitbox as a commercial enterprise to a broader community effort. Personally, I'll probably stick with my current build because my massive manhands barely manage with 24mm buttons and the broader surface area feels more comfortable to rest on (again, massive manhands) but I might try this just as a fun side project.
Open source 3D printed controllers are probably the future, I bet they will only get easier to make as time goes on too can't wait to see how far they go! Great quality as always!!
Yeah, definitely exciting times in the fightstick peripheral world! It will be interesting to see where we'll be in a couple of years. Thanks for the support as always!
I doubt it We already had access to building fightsticks and buttonboxes The majority of players will stick to the low effort funftioning out of box option, on top of that theres a very large group of players with a notable preference for things like metal enclosures for larger boxes, AND unless sony stops being assholes with needing controller keys, or people collaborate with brook to mass produce ps5 flatbox pcbs it just isnt a reasonable option. In short, the future is still in prebuilt boxes
I haven't closely followed fighting games for a while, but discovering leverless and DIY controllers makes me want to go back in! I'm printing one at this moment.
Hey, are you willing to do any sort of collaboration? I am also working on something similar that utilizes a RPi Pico. Have been stuck for some time and didn’t move forward. Let me know!
I made ten of the Flatbox rev 5 earlier this year and gave a bunch of them to friends. I had done something similar with the Open-Frame1 (bigger controller for Smash) just a bit before and found the Flatbox to be a refreshingly easy/fast build by comparison. GP2040-CE is super nice and fleshed out firmware as well. The stuff I run on my Frame1 feels a bit more primitive and there aren't new releases as often. I'm a big fan of the Flatbox. I've seen some of the keycaps I've printed break off in switches which is the biggest flaw of these things. Aside from that, it's been great. I printed caps in PLA+ and you might just need a sturdier plastic for something so thin. That or I got a few bad caps per batch maybe. Several people I gave controllers to have broken a single cap but haven't had an issue since.
@@panpan1985 A lot of people build several at a time and then unload the extras to their friends/scene/whatever. But some of them sell the extras to recoup some of their costs. I know several have sold on www.reddit.com/r/Fightsticksforsale/ Good luck!
@@severussinYeah, just to some people I hang out with IRL regularly. They weren't previously into traditional fighters (just a bit of Smash mostly) so I doubt they would've bought them if I'd tried to sell them anyway. This way I'm able to introduce them to arcade controllers at least. Although it's still surprisingly hard to get them to use them even when they were free. It took setting up a console with Soulcalibur IV and showing them it worked with the Flatbox to get a lot of them playing with theirs after months of having them.
@@Robosan4000 PCBWay donated it for the project. This is one of their highest end resin offerings (transparent!), so I think it's like $100 for the case. You could always go with their translucent resin and for 20% cheaper than the transparent if that's too steep. Good luck!
The full mix is actually on this channel along with a bunch of other synthy covers of fighting game OSTs. Feel free to check them out! Thanks for watching/listening!
I know this comment isnt about an all button controller...but i wanted to share the news with like-minded people. I recently just got my first ever arcade stick. Im thinking of doing a board swap like you suggested or just buying the Brook adapter
Awesome! What arcade stick did you get? (And I totally get wanting to share the good news about fightsticks to like-minded people. I'm always stoked after a new build.)
@@HushMySweet1 A local guy was making them so I went ahead and bought one I knew I was going to have to get the adapter or board but I'm fine with learning how to do a board swap. I also have your videos to help guide me on how everything internally should look. Thanks for giving me the knowledge of how to upgrade and build a fight stick
are you handling the camera while puting the heated insert? O_O if so, thats some god tier input mastery you have developed :o Great tutorial!! I would love to see someone with the love for arcade controllers like you to start showing the crazy builds you can make with the gp2040-ce
Lol, yeah. No budget for a fightstick/camera assistant yet so I'm left to juggle alone. Anyway, thank you for watching and commenting! I appreciate it! And definitely more GP2040-CE stuff coming down the line!
I've got so many irons in the fire with videos right now (it's a good problem, but I only have enough time in my schedule to get out one a week). Is there something specific you'd like to see in future build vids down the line? Thanks for watching!
I'm slow at shooting, editing, and writing, so I can really only do one per week without sacrificing on family time and other obligations. But, I'll add that idea to my ever-growing backlog. Thanks for watching!
I'm waiting for some good ones hit the open-source Github pages so we can try that! You have to know your way around Tinkercad or Kicad to design new PCBs to accommodate the extra buttons. Here's hoping a good, free one comes sooner rather than later because I agree, more buttons, especially for SF6 would be more ideal. In the meantime, I see that Mavercade is working on some multi-button prototypes.
Hey Hushmysweet, love your collection and videos. I was wondering if you will do a fight stick to lever less conversion video in the future. I would love to convert my old hori stick alpha for ps5 to lever less. All I know that is I need a socd cleaner and new plexiglass for buttons lol.
Hey, thanks! That would actually be a fun video concept, but unfortunately I sold the Alpha to a buddy, so I don't have it to test and tweak. I think I remember it having an extra wire to the joystick, but I would imagine it would still take a 5-pin joystick to all-button conversion harness. You could get a BitBang Magician's SOCD cleaner to make sure the inputs were being read the way you wanted. You'd also need plexi like you said, but a metal panel below it to support the plexi and sort of act as the top panel frame (you would not want to solely rely on plexi). I'm just spitballing stuff here since I don't have it in front of me to look at, so I'm not sure how difficult the change to leverless would be. If you could buy the face panel plexi and plate, it would make things a lot simpler. If I get another one in the future, I'll see about a swap since that is a good idea. Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1 Thank you SO MUCH! I appreciate the reply and all the information. You are the best! thanks for the advice. Always!! @ Thanks for watching!
cool project, i think i might make this, i have a diy buttonbox made from a bunch of parts scrounged up (my case is a junction box haha) and i always wanted to build something a bit more portable and presentable
You'd have to learn about how to actually modify the PCBs in certain programs, but you could theoretically do all that. That goes way beyond this video though! Good luck and let us know what you come up with!
@@HushMySweet1 Real crappy ender 3 S1 but I make it work lol. Unfortunately haven't been able to play much yet as I'm having sporadic inputs with the menu buttons and I still haven't figured out what's causing it, gonna try building again from scratch as I think maybe the board or 2040-zero is bad. My soldering isn't the best but there isn't any bridging and I don't see any shoddy connections.
I would play around on their site. Maybe upload some test files from github to kind of see. You'll likely need "kicad" to help design the PCB. There is also a group of super smart people on the "OpenStickCommunity" discord. If you have specific questions, there's typically someone who can help. Hopefully that gets you started. Thanks for watching!
Very nice video, I do have a question about those screw inserts though. The github page never mentions them so i was confused seeing them. Where did you get them and what kind of screws did you end up using with them? Thanks again :)
Some of the different versions require different stuff, so double-check. I grabbed the heat set inserts and the screws on Amazon (along with the USB C cable, and those little sticky feet for the Rev4 case). Inserts: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm) Screws: NACX M2 x 6mm Phillips Countersunk Flat Head Machine Screws Bolts, A2-70, Silver Tone, 304 Stainless Steel, 500Pcs Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
The tact push button ones? Or the low profile switches? If it's the low profile, then you could try dark yellows. That's probably my favorite switch type (a bit stiffer than red) and they always seem to be in stock. Also the Rev4 Bridget doesn't have lights if that's what you meant. github.com/sgfdevices/Bridget
Hmmm. I suppose anything is possible, but you'd have to make some changes. The original cases have contours on the inside and then the screw insert areas line up with the holes in the PCB. You're not going to be saving any money over a 3d print, but you could probably fab up something. Let us know if come up with a cool new plexi case! Thanks for watching!
So, I'm confused about one detail. Does PCBWay send the pcb with every component soldered or we should buy the other electronic components and solder them ourselves? Great vid, btw.
@@HushMySweet1 Oh, now i understood what you meant. I have to solder the RP2040 in the v5 revision and the hot swap sockets on v4 and v5. So, the raspberry chip on v4 is pre assembled by PCBWay. Thanks.
The V4 should be like $50-60. The V5, like $100 maybe? Don't quote me on that though. I had the case donated and a lot of the other stuff in my possession already, so I didn't keep good track of the money. You'll also likely have to order the assembled PCBs 5 at a time for minimum orders. That changes things as well. Anyway, good luck with the builds and thanks for watching!
The clear resin one is the Rev5. The white case 3d printed one is the Rev4. Some of the different versions require different stuff, so double-check. I grabbed the heat set inserts and the screws on Amazon (along with the USB C cable, and those little sticky feet for the Rev4 case). Inserts: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm) Screws: NACX M2 x 6mm Phillips Countersunk Flat Head Machine Screws Bolts, A2-70, Silver Tone, 304 Stainless Steel, 500Pcs
Just carefully read the github. All of the instructions are there and you can order with the LEDs installed through assembly. There is a special firmware for it that’s all setup and ready to go. Good luck!
Another great video! Is it possible to have customized layout like the Rooflemonger one you did? There doesn't seem to be much space for extra buttons.
Thanks! As far as customized layouts, they are not easily done at the moment, and we're just using the jfedor model to keep things easy for this vid. But! I hope this will be the catalyst that gets more people into that PCB design element, so I'm optimistic about the future. Right now though, this is a cheap all-button option (mostly catering to PC players, but it works on a handful of other systems as well) and it's cool because everything is open-source so you could feasible print and source everything to make it all yourself. I'll definitely post some more stuff when people start expanding on these initial templates though. Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1really looking forward to it! I personally would like to have more buttons playing SF6, so for now I kinda just ditched my hitbox and play with keyboard lol
there's one thing I don't understand-- how does the micro controller know which key is connected to each pin? With an arcade stick, there's a wire that connects them. But there's no wire here. Im confused.
Great video!! I'm going to start my project myself after seeing your video. One question... how is the durability of the JLCPCB resin you used? I've read issues with heat/sun exposure.
Interesting! I hadn't heard anything about that. The controller is holding up just great, but I don't know that I've ever exposed it to heat/sun. Just drop it in the bag or on the shelf and there you go! Let me know if you build one and how it holds up where you are from! Thanks for watching!
The easy way is just plugging in a Brook wingman converter. The hard way requires an overhaul. These things run on GP2040-CE based stuff, and that isn't currently compatible with the PS5. So, we are waiting for the Open Stick Community to solve the PS5 so we can update the firmware. No timeline on that though. If you don't want to wait, then you'll likely need to integrate Brook hardware. They have a PS5 daughterboard add-on as well as a new Fusion board. Check out devices like the Zappa and some of the newer Slab Mini PS5 prototypes to see how they've been tackling PS5 functionality.
It really depends how much you can do yourself (and even then, there is variance depending on how much filament you're using for the case based on your print settings), but I'd say you should be able to put one of these together for maybe around fifty bucks or so.
I ordered the PCB, switches, and hot swap sockets from Etsy for $50. Got the tact switches from Amazon for $5. Enclosure and buttons printed at the local library for $5. So, it cost me $60 total.
Yo nice video! Im planning to rush in fgc too, so it's definitely a one of videos that will help me too start this un easy path... Yo Whats about the jukebox! I mean what the music is playing on the background?(i mean i know that those are mk , guile, and juris themes , but what exact remixes?) Thx for the contents
Hey, right on! If you dig the music, it's actually all on this channel. You'll have to scroll back a page through my vids probably (or there is a synthwave playlist at the top which has all of them linked). For this channel, I originally wanted fighting game OST synthwave covers, fighting game video essays, fightstick news and tech, and a dash of my own gameplay sprinkled in. I've found the most success with fightstick stuff so I've leaned harder in that direction to give people more of what they want. Now I just use it all as bg music since it didn't really resonate with viewers. Thanks for watching/listening!
Awesome, thanks for watching and passing it around. There isn't an open source Smash Box version to my knowledge, but you can learn to modify PCBs and be the change you want to see in the world! Let us know what you guys come up with!
The reason this is cheap and easy is that the PCB design work has already been done and has proven successful. If you want custom layouts, there aren't any easy ones ready to go on GitHub, so you'll need to make your own. You'll likely need "kicad" to help design the PCB. There is also a group of super smart people on the "OpenStickCommunity" discord. If you have specific questions, there's typically someone who can help. And if it's proving too daunting, you may be able to commission one of them to help you get the initial files going. Hopefully that gets you started in the right direction. Thanks for watching!
On a scale of 1/10 how difficult would you rate this project and what would be the total cost of something like this? (Quick note: I have some prior experience with creating my own PCB's, soldering, 3D printing and just electronics in general)
I feel it should be pretty straightforward for you with your prior experience. One issue is that you typically have to order 5 PCBs from one of these assembly services. Some of the cost is also dependent on if you have easy access to a 3d printer or need to order enclosures. I think you should be able to make a Flatbox rev 4 for like fifty or sixty bucks. If you really want to make it simple, you can just buy the assembled PCB from SGF or another etsy seller. They go for like $35 and you can just buy the single board. All sort of depends what you're after though. Good luck with the project!
If you’re willing to do a lot of the assembly yourself what is the cheapest you could order a pcb / batch of pcbs for? How much does having to order multiple due to minimum order requirements increase that price?
I can't remember the exact amount off the top of my head, but I'm pretty sure you have to order at least 5. You'll have to plug in the files and add 5 to cart to see what the total is. I think they were all less than $20 a board though, but I can't remember the exact numbers. It works well to help test and give you some confidence in case you make a mistake, but they come together pretty well, so likely you'd just have extras for your friends. Some people unload their extras on r/fightsticksforsale to recoup costs. Good luck with the project!
Hey, love the content and really appreciate the video. Might try my hand at this soon, but wanted to know if any boards were available to add buttons either above LP/MP or for a pinky button to the left of the movement keys. Also, any options for enclosures with 30mm caps readily available anywhere? I'm a bit lost when it comes to where to look for all this. Thanks in advance!
Github is where a lot of these free files are, but I have not yet seen a true open source one ready to go with the things you described. You can make them in TinkerCad or Kicad, but it's going to be a huge learning process if you are unfamiliar with this sort of stuff. The Open Stick Community can help you if you encounter questions along the way. discord.gg/G4TCGPem edit: And thanks for watching!
Do you have a Snackbox Micro or an MPress? Im curious how the height from the top of the shell to the top of the buttons compare on the flatbox to the commercial offerings.
I have the Micro and the XL so I pulled them out to look for you. Looks like the Micros are slightly shorter from the top of the shell to the top of the buttons. It's fairly marginal, but if you're wanting the lowest distance between top of cap and top of panel, looks like Micro has the Flatbox beat on that front. Hope that helps!
I like you concept ,planning to build arcade stick UFB fusion antagonist pcb on my own ,but normal platform don’t very suitable on mk1 ，have mixbox razer panthera etokki and hori fight stick all don’t feel very well on mk1
Xbox doesn't work right now with GP2040-CE firmware. Similarly, you'd likely need some MagicBoots pass-through tech (there's another video on this channel which sort of explains it) for PS4/5 compatibility. If you need all of those systems, you'll likely need something like a Fusion board and a more traditional Hitbox-style all-button controller. Thanks for watching.
Looking into this. For the 3d printed housing, there are two files for the bottom half - "bottom" and "bottom-hotswap." I am guessing the bottom hotswap is only if you put hotswap sockets in your board. Is this correct?
I got them from a fightstick buddy, TheTrain several months back (so it's hard to remember everything). He's got a pretty good 3d printer, so maybe that's what he did. Sorry that's not more help, but thanks for watching!
It's a little different depending on your model. Basically though, you'll just need to flash the appropriate firmware. Just scroll down to the one you're making, download the corresponding firmware and follow the firmware installation steps. I'll leave some handy links to help you out. Good luck! gp2040-ce.info/downloads/ gp2040-ce.info/installation/
Hey HushMySweet, awesome video! I would really like to utilize a rev 4 version of that acrylic from PCBWay. How would I go about doing this? Could you help a fellow FGC player out lol? I also thought about doing a little bit of a mod to the case by extended its dimensions and depth a bit for some padding. Any advice?
I can point you in the right direction, but it may be more complicated. You'll need to start using tinkercad or kicad, and practice with some PCB edits. The reason this Flatbox is more appealing is because all of the thinking/testing work is already done so you can just use a PCB that's ready to go. You might consider joining the open stick community discord as well. They can help with specific issues. discord.gg/j9g64Pqm Good luck!
They are flat, so not exactly true concave or convex. If you want some concave ones, then Junk Food Arcade sells caps for their Micros which will fit this. You could try there. Good luck in the hunt, and thanks for watching!
Oh, definitely not. A true branded HitBox is $250 before shipping. A Flatbox-style build is $100 if you buy direct from a company fully assembled (see SGF and their Bridget controller which is a Flatbox variant). What's the print go for? For sure not more than $20 of filament. Search for 3D print services (or even some libraries) and upload the enclosure files to get a quote. When all is said and done, you should be able to make a Rev 4 for like $50 or $60. The downside is that you typically have to order assembled PCBs in batches of 5.
Im gonna build both a flatbox and a hitbox But question, i would like to know where do you get the transparent case? I would like to design an art for it. Like does it need to connect to the 3d printed case or is its own case?
PCBWay donated it for this project. You can use normal 3d printers, but they had some high end resin printers, so I had the case halves printed in premium transparent resin. It costs substantially more than regular 3d printing though (so like $100 just for the case). Good luck with the project!
In games like Soulcalibur VI, there are certain moves that demand frame-perfect input of one button followed by another button with zero overlap between the two, which is accomplished by fiercely sliding your finger(s) across the buttons. So when I see these new low profile controllers popping up it makes me cringe a little because they all seem to have textured buttons that are flat or even concave, instead of convex and smooth to allow for such slide inputs. If someone starts making proper injection molded smooth convex button caps for these low profile switches, I'd say they would have a winner on their hands.
I feel ya, but there are some that do. Don't quote me on this, but I think the SGF Zappa and a newer prototype from Mavercade have higher end injection-molded button caps. Maybe the Slab Mini as well? I need to review more controllers to see for sure. Plus Junk Food Customs sells smoother caps for their Micros which should work with these units. But I get ya. I think they have to be 3d printed to be cost efficient for a lot of these smaller controller businesses, but we are seeing some more "proper" buttons coming up. Thanks for watching/commenting!
you can sand the 3d printed button to have the surface you want, is to time consuming tho... buttons like the one you want are starting to pop up from molding, a good start is to find razer kitsune buttons aliexpress already has it (cheaper options will show up in some months tho)
@@HushMySweet1 I took a look at the brands you mentioned and I'm pretty sure those buttons are from Punk Workshop, or maybe are clones? It's hard to tell for sure, but I had previously wondered if the Punk caps were smooth enough or not. Maybe at EVO I'll run into someone with some of these on a controller to try out.
@@Iantrypsk I took a look and didn't find anything, and wouldn't it be odd for them to have parts for a product that isn't even going to be released for a while yet?
@@KyleJohnsonVA idk if where clones, could be, had razer switches... is not a hard product to clone, even harvesting a cap you like and putting on the mechanical switch you like is not that hard or particularly fragile after its done. could be an interesting side hustle for a teenager with a 3d printer going to EVO... do ones with Crown/Sanwa/Qanba caps :p
woudl it be possible to edit the buttons to act as tilts and slow walk for smash? i use my box for mk1 and sf6 but it'd be really convenient if i could use this for smash too
I don't know the ins and outs of Smash very well so I'm not sure. What are the inputs for tilts? Just a single button press or something beyond that? If it's a combination, then you'd likely be in macro territory and some players would probably take issue with that. (But I'm out of my element because I know so little about the game.)
interesting video. you say this is inexpensive so what is the total cost in parts to making your own flatbox? also how much more would it cost to make one for the PS5 versus PS4?
Typically, you should be able to make a Rev 4 one for like $50-60. Depends a bit on your access to a 3d printer. One more issue is that a lot of these assembly services have a minimum order count of 5 (so you'll have practice boards or extras to finish and give/sell to your friends in the scene). PS5 stuff is still super expensive right now and there isn't a good open source option. I hope that changes here in the future, but as it sits now, you'd need to integrate a Brook Fusion board into the build and those are like $130 by themselves. I have a video coming at the end of this week which showcases a PS5-compatible Flatbox-esque build, but it's a product review and not a how-to. Good luck and thanks for watching.
Wondering if there is a PCB translation that can utilize the UFB or UFB-Fusion from Brook. Only recently thinking about tackling a custom project, for kicks.
I've not seen one that's open source like this, but the SGF Zappa sort of fits what you're describing. When someone uploads a free equivalent on GitHub I will make it. Thanks for watching!
Is it possible to find PCBs and enclosure files that use different button layouts? I would like to have a leverless controller that puts the L1/L2 buttons just above the face buttons so they're more easily reachable, rather than needing to reach your pinky.
Not that I'm aware of. Hopefully this video acts as a catalyst to get more people into the PCB design process. You can also join the Open Stick Community discord (they can help with questions) and try your own hand at the next big design. Good luck!
The resin case rev 5 is going to be more spendy, but you should be able to fab up something close to the white/black rev 4 in this vid for like $50-60 I would say.
Do you know of a keyboard style layout? like wasd for movement and 8 button layout on the right? Looking for small buttons/keys and aligned in a straight fashion, not curved like 95% of leverless controllers I find
Nothing off the top of my head. At least not open source. I was sent a Haute controller similar to what you're describing, but there are so many videos ahead of it, I likely won't get to that review for a while. Let us know if you find anything in the meantime that works.
Hey, im building the flatbox rev 4 and the pcb's i ordered did not come with usb connector or the raspberry pi, what is the second smaller square that is up and left of the raspberry pi?
That little flash memory chip? Or if you don't have a usb connector or RP2040 chip, maybe you have a Rev 5? Otherwise if this is a Rev 4, then you may have yourself a completely unassembled board with nothing at all on it? That doesn't bode well because there's a lot of stuff you'd need to add that can't really be soldered by hand.
Thanks for watching! I bought them on Amazon: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm)
I'm not quite sure I fully understand, but this is actually what I would consider pretty DIY-friendly if you are a thorough reader. Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1 What I mean its if theres a way to make this work with Literally just switches and raspberry Pi . without the need for PCB manufacturer and 3d printing. after some search online looks like its posible. so yeaa
It's okay, but not ideal if you're suffering from carpal tunnel issues. I don't know of a truly ergonomic one off the top of my head. You're thinking of a top that is tented or something, yes? You could look into the open stick project discord and see if anyone there could point you to a modified template, or help you create your own. Thanks for watching!
Do you know if there is a service / builder where I can order flatbox style controllers with custom button / switch placements? I don't like the hitbox layout because it's too cramped for me. Also, I'd prefer a long button in the middle, like a space key froma keyboard, since two Up-buttons don't comply with the current Capcom rules anymore. Unfortunately, I have no idea where I can get something like this. I've looked on etsy and aliexpress to no avail.
Mavercade offers something similar to what you're asking and they are experimenting with different / extra button placements in some of their new controllers. You could also commission someone in the Open Stick Community discord to help you build exactly what you want. discord.gg/zjJgvAM5 The issue with this path is that you'll typically have to buy minimum 5 PCBs from these assembly services, so you'll have that on top of those costs. Good luck with the project and let us know what you come up with!
The transparent resin case alone was like $100, but I had it donated for the project by PCBWay. If you just want to buy a typical Rev5 one, there's someone selling more standard 3d-printed versions for $120.
Typically, you should be able to make a Rev 4 one for like $50-60. Depends a bit on your access to a 3d printer. One more issue is that a lot of these assembly services have a minimum order count of 5 (so you'll have practice boards or extras to finish and give/sell to your friends in the scene). Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
was this plug and play with sf6/steam? Im pretty much done with my build but its not registering on steam.. I see it when I use an online hardware tester and all the buttons are being read fine on the hardware tester
Hmmm...could you try changing the input mode to see if that would help? Just hold the appropriate button as you plug it in and then everything is saved for future (so you'd only need to do this one time if you find the right one). I want to say this happened to me once and I changed the input to something else and it solved it. To change the input mode, hold one of the following buttons as the controller is plugged in: B1 for Nintendo Switch B2 for XInput B3 for DirectInput/PS3 B4 for PS4 R2 for Keyboard gp2040-ce.info/#/usage
@@floridacaninecenter I'm in and out today so hard to troubleshoot this in real time. Try joining discord.gg/G4TCGPem on discord and the members there will be able to help you get it solved.
Do you mind telling me your total cost on this? pad has been hurting my hands a lot lately but I don't really have the money to invest in a hitbox (even if I did, they're all sold out).
That resin one with the Rev5 board is going to be more expensive, but if low price is priority, that Rev4 version with the 3d printed case (the white one with the black keycaps) should be about $50-60 if you want to build a similar one yourself. Good luck!
I don't see anyone selling acrylic cases even w/o the inserts. I think part of that reason is these units are supposed to be small and inexpensive, so when you start subbing out that cheap 3d printed case for a $100 acrylic one, you lose a lot of potential buyers. I just ordered this one as a one-off from PCBWay. You could likely do the same. Then, just wallow the heat set insert cavities ever so slightly with a multi-tool, and then epoxy or super glue them in place. (Skip the heat entirely.) Just make sure they are standing as straight as possible and you don't get any of your glue inside the inserts. Good luck and thanks for watching!
You'll need to upload the .stl files on to their website. Here is the bottom section: github.com/TheTrainGoes/flatbox-rev5-rgb/blob/main/Flatbox%20rev%205%20RGB%20case%20-%20Art%20Case/Flatbox%20rev%205%20RGB%20-%20Art%20Case%20-%20Main%20Frame.stl
@@HushMySweet1 Thanks! I was planning on switching to a hitbox style controller but acquiring such a controller is hard here in the PH. I was planning on modding my Qanba Obsidian to a hitbox but getting the hardware and shipping is expensive. My other and easier option is the mixbox mod but I'd rather have a hitbox. So this looks like an easier option for me to do, just hoping for a cheaper shipping fee.
@@HushMySweet1 Awesome! Where can I get the plans for the PCB for other PCB assembly services? The only reason I ask is because I'm based in South Africa so shipping from the USA to here will be really expensive.
That resin shell was like $100 by itself (but maybe you don't care about the enclosure). You can walk through a PCB assembly and do it yourself, or you can go with a vendor. Looks like the Rev5 ones are selling for $140. discodirt.com/products/flatbox-5-rgb-rev-2
You either use the files and order directly from a PCB assembly place like PCBWay. Or you can buy a pre-built one offered from different etsy sellers or from the folks on the SGF website.
Dope builds! I can't wait to see someone spike one of those into the floor at a tournament.
Fingers crossed!
Might be a while before that happens, the firmware available for these home builds doesn't have PS5 support for tournament use :/
Oh are smash players using hit box’s now?
@@thesaltmerchant4564 nah, riddles is playing SF6 now.
@@thesaltmerchant4564 They have for years
Currently waiting to build Flatbox No. 2 and seeing this on the feed was a pleasant surprise. Recommend anyone who is interested to try it out and like SGF said, they are now selling individual Flatbox Rev 4 boards that should be compatible with most of the cases made by the community.
Yeah, I saw their link last night. Super reasonable price too. Good luck with Flatbox No. 2!
Very cool. As some people have noted in the comments, it seems that 3D printed fightboxes are becoming more and more like the future. Allows for a lot of versatility too. As always, awesome vid!
Right on! It's not a completed Hush video with a deminator comment! Thanks for your consistent support as always!
So cool to see this! Would love to see more people making their own flatbox-style controllers, and this kind of tutorial is sorely needed for that! We're also going to start selling individual PCBs for our Bridget MX (flatbox rev4-forked) controller soon :)
Awesome! And thank you for the support and for your help!
@@HushMySweet1 i hate you 2 with every fiber of my being.
I just made my own controller using a pico pie running 2040-ce and printed the parts. It takes some thinking and planning but it's worth it if you have the patience. Works for PC, Xbox, Switch, and PS4. it was about $20-$25 worth of parts.
Very cool!
Would you happen to have a list of source parts. I am looking to set one up for my XSX
What a coincidence, I was looking into making my own flatbox to test out a stickless controller just last week, but it ended up being too expensive since I live in a third world country with no way to get the parts for cheap, plus the process looked way more involved compared to the fightstick I built a few years ago. Ended up picking a fully assembled flatbox from China for around $50 USD, currently waiting for it to arrive.
Cool video!
Awesome! Hopefully the Flatbox works well for you! They are fun little units.
I got one of those, too, for similar reasons. Mine is clearly a knockoff running GP2040-CE, but it's built well enough and even has an OLED screen. Sometimes the buttons get stuck, which I still haven't figured out if it's an issue with the low profile Cherry reds or the button keycaps.
Taking my time, but I think I will still try DIY-ing my own controller because I'm not a huge fan of the "standard" layout for all-button controllers.
@@ZovcDrafts Those OLED screens are cool, but I would hate to have buttons get stuck. That's a major con for me. I agree with you on the standard all-button layouts. I like it when they spread things out a bit more. I'm also excited to see some future options with some atypical button placements for Drive Impact-type stuff. Good luck on your DIY controller! Tag me on r/fightsticks when you finish! Thanks for watching.
I thought those files looked familiar! I was inspired to make a variant of this with all 30mm buttons except for the left, right and down. I highly recommend the original design. Excellent documentation and well made source files.
Yes! A 30 mm sounds version sounds cool. Sort of a shiokenstar meets Flatbox vibe. Thanks for watching/commenting!
Is the size of the big keycap at the bottom 30mm?
@@kleen131 Yeah, 30 mm for the jump function and 24 for all the others.
Oh, this is fantastic. Hope more people see it. I remember poring over Slagcoin pages trying to figure out how to hack pads into all-button controllers, so it's fantastic to see the progression of Hitbox as a commercial enterprise to a broader community effort. Personally, I'll probably stick with my current build because my massive manhands barely manage with 24mm buttons and the broader surface area feels more comfortable to rest on (again, massive manhands) but I might try this just as a fun side project.
Right on! Maybe when there's a more mainstream 30 mm button PCB variant you'll give it a shot! Thanks for watching!
this is so sick, thanks so much for putting this together!! will definitely try this out in a few months
Right on! I hope it goes well for you and you get a cool little controller out of it. Thanks for watching.
Open source 3D printed controllers are probably the future, I bet they will only get easier to make as time goes on too
can't wait to see how far they go!
Great quality as always!!
Yeah, definitely exciting times in the fightstick peripheral world! It will be interesting to see where we'll be in a couple of years. Thanks for the support as always!
I doubt it
We already had access to building fightsticks and buttonboxes
The majority of players will stick to the low effort funftioning out of box option, on top of that theres a very large group of players with a notable preference for things like metal enclosures for larger boxes, AND unless sony stops being assholes with needing controller keys, or people collaborate with brook to mass produce ps5 flatbox pcbs it just isnt a reasonable option.
In short, the future is still in prebuilt boxes
Pretty sweet project. I'm working on a verison for the NES. The controller is working, now just making a custom case.
Awesome. Good luck with your NES version!
I haven't closely followed fighting games for a while, but discovering leverless and DIY controllers makes me want to go back in! I'm printing one at this moment.
lol Right on, dude!
This is literally why I taught myself KiCad working on a gp2040 pad right now. I'll post the gerber once I'm done
The hero we need!
Hey, are you willing to do any sort of collaboration? I am also working on something similar that utilizes a RPi Pico. Have been stuck for some time and didn’t move forward. Let me know!
Dude, thank you so much for sharing this info.
You bet! Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
That clear plastic one looks so fricking good
Yeah, I agree! That clear resin enclosure really takes it up a notch beyond the usual 3d printed stuff. Thanks for watching!
Your content, quality and voice are very cool
I appreciate that! Thanks for your kind comment and for watching!
The brand "Fightbox" also has very attractive prices. I got myself their "F4" for PC for 105 euros... unbeatable!
I actually reviewed one of their controllers a while back. I thought they were definitely a good option for their price and PS5 compatibility.
Hopefully we can see cool 3d printed fightstick enclosures soon
I hope so too! Just need PCBWay to sponsor another video!
I made ten of the Flatbox rev 5 earlier this year and gave a bunch of them to friends. I had done something similar with the Open-Frame1 (bigger controller for Smash) just a bit before and found the Flatbox to be a refreshingly easy/fast build by comparison. GP2040-CE is super nice and fleshed out firmware as well. The stuff I run on my Frame1 feels a bit more primitive and there aren't new releases as often.
I'm a big fan of the Flatbox. I've seen some of the keycaps I've printed break off in switches which is the biggest flaw of these things. Aside from that, it's been great. I printed caps in PLA+ and you might just need a sturdier plastic for something so thin. That or I got a few bad caps per batch maybe. Several people I gave controllers to have broken a single cap but haven't had an issue since.
Right on! Yeah, I think they are fun little units and it's cool you are helping out your buddies with some builds!
shittt wanna make me one? haha
@@panpan1985 A lot of people build several at a time and then unload the extras to their friends/scene/whatever. But some of them sell the extras to recoup some of their costs. I know several have sold on www.reddit.com/r/Fightsticksforsale/ Good luck!
You gave them away?
@@severussinYeah, just to some people I hang out with IRL regularly. They weren't previously into traditional fighters (just a bit of Smash mostly) so I doubt they would've bought them if I'd tried to sell them anyway. This way I'm able to introduce them to arcade controllers at least. Although it's still surprisingly hard to get them to use them even when they were free. It took setting up a console with Soulcalibur IV and showing them it worked with the Flatbox to get a lot of them playing with theirs after months of having them.
That resin looks so clean. Great vid!
Thank you! Yeah, I was really impressed with the resin. Fingerprints aside, it looks really clean and I like the added weight over the 3d print.
I was going say, just burn off your fingerprints... but that doesn't stop the skin from producing oil 😅
@@HushMySweet1What was the cost for the resin print? Seriously considering going that route.
@@Robosan4000 PCBWay donated it for the project. This is one of their highest end resin offerings (transparent!), so I think it's like $100 for the case. You could always go with their translucent resin and for 20% cheaper than the transparent if that's too steep. Good luck!
That background mortal lombat theme is tempting ❤
The full mix is actually on this channel along with a bunch of other synthy covers of fighting game OSTs. Feel free to check them out! Thanks for watching/listening!
@@HushMySweet1 I have made traditional arcade box, but now it's time to change and switch to Flat box .Thanks now you got a subscriber ...
Hey, I was looking for a video like this, thanks
No problem! Hope it helps you!
The GP2040-CE development team are doing God's work
Indeed.
this is custom keyboard levels deep.
wake up babe, there's a new hush my sweet video
"Come back to bed. He'll still be geeking out about controllers in the morning." lol, thanks for watching/commenting! I appreciate it!
I know this comment isnt about an all button controller...but i wanted to share the news with like-minded people. I recently just got my first ever arcade stick. Im thinking of doing a board swap like you suggested or just buying the Brook adapter
Awesome! What arcade stick did you get? (And I totally get wanting to share the good news about fightsticks to like-minded people. I'm always stoked after a new build.)
@@HushMySweet1 A local guy was making them so I went ahead and bought one I knew I was going to have to get the adapter or board but I'm fine with learning how to do a board swap. I also have your videos to help guide me on how everything internally should look. Thanks for giving me the knowledge of how to upgrade and build a fight stick
I ordered mine pre-built from AliExpress for 50 bucks. Good enough for me. 😁
That's definitely another option! Thanks for watching all the same!
Yeah I'm thinking of doing the same
Just order one too from aliexpress ship time is killer but for 50 i think i can wait
i love watching this video despite the fact that i just bought a hitbox like 20 mins ago
lol nice! I hope the HitBox serves you well! Thanks for watching.
are you handling the camera while puting the heated insert? O_O
if so, thats some god tier input mastery you have developed :o
Great tutorial!!
I would love to see someone with the love for arcade controllers like you to start showing the crazy builds you can make with the gp2040-ce
Lol, yeah. No budget for a fightstick/camera assistant yet so I'm left to juggle alone. Anyway, thank you for watching and commenting! I appreciate it! And definitely more GP2040-CE stuff coming down the line!
You should definitely do more build vids like this!
I've got so many irons in the fire with videos right now (it's a good problem, but I only have enough time in my schedule to get out one a week). Is there something specific you'd like to see in future build vids down the line? Thanks for watching!
Great video! We need a soldering guide for the RP2040 and the swappable switches.
I'm slow at shooting, editing, and writing, so I can really only do one per week without sacrificing on family time and other obligations. But, I'll add that idea to my ever-growing backlog. Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1 I understand. Either way you have a new subscriber. Keep up the great work!
Damn nice! I like the clear for adding art. Id personally try to get one with some extra buttons.
I'm waiting for some good ones hit the open-source Github pages so we can try that! You have to know your way around Tinkercad or Kicad to design new PCBs to accommodate the extra buttons. Here's hoping a good, free one comes sooner rather than later because I agree, more buttons, especially for SF6 would be more ideal. In the meantime, I see that Mavercade is working on some multi-button prototypes.
Hey Hushmysweet, love your collection and videos. I was wondering if you will do a fight stick to lever less conversion video in the future. I would love to convert my old hori stick alpha for ps5 to lever less. All I know that is I need a socd cleaner and new plexiglass for buttons lol.
Hey, thanks! That would actually be a fun video concept, but unfortunately I sold the Alpha to a buddy, so I don't have it to test and tweak. I think I remember it having an extra wire to the joystick, but I would imagine it would still take a 5-pin joystick to all-button conversion harness. You could get a BitBang Magician's SOCD cleaner to make sure the inputs were being read the way you wanted. You'd also need plexi like you said, but a metal panel below it to support the plexi and sort of act as the top panel frame (you would not want to solely rely on plexi). I'm just spitballing stuff here since I don't have it in front of me to look at, so I'm not sure how difficult the change to leverless would be. If you could buy the face panel plexi and plate, it would make things a lot simpler. If I get another one in the future, I'll see about a swap since that is a good idea. Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1 Thank you SO MUCH! I appreciate the reply and all the information. You are the best! thanks for the advice. Always!! @ Thanks for watching!
cool project, i think i might make this, i have a diy buttonbox made from a bunch of parts scrounged up (my case is a junction box haha) and i always wanted to build something a bit more portable and presentable
Awesome, good luck with the build!
This is so awesome. I wish there was a 6 gawd layout for SF6.
You'd have to learn about how to actually modify the PCBs in certain programs, but you could theoretically do all that. That goes way beyond this video though! Good luck and let us know what you come up with!
it's lit! ty for the upload
Thanks for watching/commenting!
great video THANK YOU. ima give it a try.
Awesome! Good luck!
I have absolutely no idea what your saying it's but cool.
lol, damn. Thanks for watching/commenting all the same!
this looks a lot easier than when I made my box out of some wood!
But is it as classy as that mahogany enclosure with the half-blind dovetail joints you put together? Is it?! (Thanks for watching!)
I literally just finished mine yesterday after fixing my 3d printer lol
Awesome! What kind of printer do you have?
@@HushMySweet1 Real crappy ender 3 S1 but I make it work lol. Unfortunately haven't been able to play much yet as I'm having sporadic inputs with the menu buttons and I still haven't figured out what's causing it, gonna try building again from scratch as I think maybe the board or 2040-zero is bad. My soldering isn't the best but there isn't any bridging and I don't see any shoddy connections.
Wow. Another amazing video! Can anyone point me to where I can learn about designing/ordering a PCB from PCBWay?
I would play around on their site. Maybe upload some test files from github to kind of see. You'll likely need "kicad" to help design the PCB. There is also a group of super smart people on the "OpenStickCommunity" discord. If you have specific questions, there's typically someone who can help. Hopefully that gets you started. Thanks for watching!
Flat box is such a better name than leverless
Very nice video, I do have a question about those screw inserts though. The github page never mentions them so i was confused seeing them. Where did you get them and what kind of screws did you end up using with them? Thanks again :)
Some of the different versions require different stuff, so double-check. I grabbed the heat set inserts and the screws on Amazon (along with the USB C cable, and those little sticky feet for the Rev4 case).
Inserts: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm)
Screws: NACX M2 x 6mm Phillips Countersunk Flat Head Machine Screws Bolts, A2-70, Silver Tone, 304 Stainless Steel, 500Pcs
Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1 Thank you so much! This has been a big help
i know nothing about 3d printing, but looking into getting, as they have come a long way since they first released
Yeah, the technology has made big advancements!
Zerodelay or SJ@JX costs about $1 and does the same, the rest you can spend on proper arcade switches from Sanwa or something. No soldering either.
This is great, sadly a couple of switches are out of stock right now ;_;
btw is there an RGB -free version?
The tact push button ones? Or the low profile switches? If it's the low profile, then you could try dark yellows. That's probably my favorite switch type (a bit stiffer than red) and they always seem to be in stock. Also the Rev4 Bridget doesn't have lights if that's what you meant. github.com/sgfdevices/Bridget
It possible to make the case with plexiglass and laser cut ? More videos like this please :)
Hmmm. I suppose anything is possible, but you'd have to make some changes. The original cases have contours on the inside and then the screw insert areas line up with the holes in the PCB. You're not going to be saving any money over a 3d print, but you could probably fab up something. Let us know if come up with a cool new plexi case! Thanks for watching!
I just built my Flatbox today. However I modified the case to use buttons instead of the wedges at the top left.
Nice! I think I like the buttons better than the wedges as well.
So, I'm confused about one detail. Does PCBWay send the pcb with every component soldered or we should buy the other electronic components and solder them ourselves? Great vid, btw.
They are mostly assembled, but you will need to solder on the WaveShare board and hot swap sockets. Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1 Oh, now i understood what you meant. I have to solder the RP2040 in the v5 revision and the hot swap sockets on v4 and v5. So, the raspberry chip on v4 is pre assembled by PCBWay. Thanks.
Do you have an estimate for approximately how much it cost to do each of the builds (excluding the cost of the soldering equipment)?
The V4 should be like $50-60. The V5, like $100 maybe? Don't quote me on that though. I had the case donated and a lot of the other stuff in my possession already, so I didn't keep good track of the money. You'll also likely have to order the assembled PCBs 5 at a time for minimum orders. That changes things as well. Anyway, good luck with the builds and thanks for watching!
What size threaded inserts and screws did you use? Is your clear one a rev 4? Great video thanks.
The clear resin one is the Rev5. The white case 3d printed one is the Rev4. Some of the different versions require different stuff, so double-check. I grabbed the heat set inserts and the screws on Amazon (along with the USB C cable, and those little sticky feet for the Rev4 case).
Inserts: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm)
Screws: NACX M2 x 6mm Phillips Countersunk Flat Head Machine Screws Bolts, A2-70, Silver Tone, 304 Stainless Steel, 500Pcs
@@HushMySweet1 Perfect. Thank you very much. I got a rev4 printed and am now inspire to print it in clear.
That's so cool! I am going to make one. Any guide for installing the RGB light into the buttons since the video doesn't mention it?
Just carefully read the github. All of the instructions are there and you can order with the LEDs installed through assembly. There is a special firmware for it that’s all setup and ready to go. Good luck!
Another great video! Is it possible to have customized layout like the Rooflemonger one you did? There doesn't seem to be much space for extra buttons.
Thanks! As far as customized layouts, they are not easily done at the moment, and we're just using the jfedor model to keep things easy for this vid. But! I hope this will be the catalyst that gets more people into that PCB design element, so I'm optimistic about the future. Right now though, this is a cheap all-button option (mostly catering to PC players, but it works on a handful of other systems as well) and it's cool because everything is open-source so you could feasible print and source everything to make it all yourself. I'll definitely post some more stuff when people start expanding on these initial templates though. Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1really looking forward to it! I personally would like to have more buttons playing SF6, so for now I kinda just ditched my hitbox and play with keyboard lol
there's one thing I don't understand-- how does the micro controller know which key is connected to each pin?
With an arcade stick, there's a wire that connects them. But there's no wire here. Im confused.
What you're thinking of normally is where a wire connects from a button to the PCB. Here, the buttons connect directly to the PCB.
Great video!! I'm going to start my project myself after seeing your video. One question... how is the durability of the JLCPCB resin you used? I've read issues with heat/sun exposure.
Interesting! I hadn't heard anything about that. The controller is holding up just great, but I don't know that I've ever exposed it to heat/sun. Just drop it in the bag or on the shelf and there you go! Let me know if you build one and how it holds up where you are from! Thanks for watching!
I wonder how to make this compatible with PS5. I'm building a hitbox right now and all I had to get was the UP5 board and add it on.
The easy way is just plugging in a Brook wingman converter. The hard way requires an overhaul. These things run on GP2040-CE based stuff, and that isn't currently compatible with the PS5. So, we are waiting for the Open Stick Community to solve the PS5 so we can update the firmware. No timeline on that though. If you don't want to wait, then you'll likely need to integrate Brook hardware. They have a PS5 daughterboard add-on as well as a new Fusion board. Check out devices like the Zappa and some of the newer Slab Mini PS5 prototypes to see how they've been tackling PS5 functionality.
overall, how much does this cost?
It really depends how much you can do yourself (and even then, there is variance depending on how much filament you're using for the case based on your print settings), but I'd say you should be able to put one of these together for maybe around fifty bucks or so.
I ordered the PCB, switches, and hot swap sockets from Etsy for $50. Got the tact switches from Amazon for $5. Enclosure and buttons printed at the local library for $5. So, it cost me $60 total.
Yo nice video! Im planning to rush in fgc too, so it's definitely a one of videos that will help me too start this un easy path...
Yo Whats about the jukebox! I mean what the music is playing on the background?(i mean i know that those are mk , guile, and juris themes , but what exact remixes?)
Thx for the contents
Hey, right on! If you dig the music, it's actually all on this channel. You'll have to scroll back a page through my vids probably (or there is a synthwave playlist at the top which has all of them linked). For this channel, I originally wanted fighting game OST synthwave covers, fighting game video essays, fightstick news and tech, and a dash of my own gameplay sprinkled in. I've found the most success with fightstick stuff so I've leaned harder in that direction to give people more of what they want. Now I just use it all as bg music since it didn't really resonate with viewers. Thanks for watching/listening!
Yo this is way simpler than I thought! I have to show my brother. I wonder if there is a Smash Box variant to try this with
Awesome, thanks for watching and passing it around. There isn't an open source Smash Box version to my knowledge, but you can learn to modify PCBs and be the change you want to see in the world! Let us know what you guys come up with!
How do I add a left pinky button and a right thumb button? If I make my own I at least want it to have full functionality
The reason this is cheap and easy is that the PCB design work has already been done and has proven successful. If you want custom layouts, there aren't any easy ones ready to go on GitHub, so you'll need to make your own. You'll likely need "kicad" to help design the PCB. There is also a group of super smart people on the "OpenStickCommunity" discord. If you have specific questions, there's typically someone who can help. And if it's proving too daunting, you may be able to commission one of them to help you get the initial files going. Hopefully that gets you started in the right direction. Thanks for watching!
On a scale of 1/10 how difficult would you rate this project and what would be the total cost of something like this?
(Quick note: I have some prior experience with creating my own PCB's, soldering, 3D printing and just electronics in general)
I feel it should be pretty straightforward for you with your prior experience. One issue is that you typically have to order 5 PCBs from one of these assembly services. Some of the cost is also dependent on if you have easy access to a 3d printer or need to order enclosures. I think you should be able to make a Flatbox rev 4 for like fifty or sixty bucks. If you really want to make it simple, you can just buy the assembled PCB from SGF or another etsy seller. They go for like $35 and you can just buy the single board. All sort of depends what you're after though. Good luck with the project!
If you’re willing to do a lot of the assembly yourself what is the cheapest you could order a pcb / batch of pcbs for? How much does having to order multiple due to minimum order requirements increase that price?
I can't remember the exact amount off the top of my head, but I'm pretty sure you have to order at least 5. You'll have to plug in the files and add 5 to cart to see what the total is. I think they were all less than $20 a board though, but I can't remember the exact numbers. It works well to help test and give you some confidence in case you make a mistake, but they come together pretty well, so likely you'd just have extras for your friends. Some people unload their extras on r/fightsticksforsale to recoup costs. Good luck with the project!
Hey, love the content and really appreciate the video. Might try my hand at this soon, but wanted to know if any boards were available to add buttons either above LP/MP or for a pinky button to the left of the movement keys.
Also, any options for enclosures with 30mm caps readily available anywhere? I'm a bit lost when it comes to where to look for all this.
Thanks in advance!
Github is where a lot of these free files are, but I have not yet seen a true open source one ready to go with the things you described. You can make them in TinkerCad or Kicad, but it's going to be a huge learning process if you are unfamiliar with this sort of stuff. The Open Stick Community can help you if you encounter questions along the way. discord.gg/G4TCGPem
edit: And thanks for watching!
Do you have a Snackbox Micro or an MPress? Im curious how the height from the top of the shell to the top of the buttons compare on the flatbox to the commercial offerings.
I have the Micro and the XL so I pulled them out to look for you. Looks like the Micros are slightly shorter from the top of the shell to the top of the buttons. It's fairly marginal, but if you're wanting the lowest distance between top of cap and top of panel, looks like Micro has the Flatbox beat on that front. Hope that helps!
@@HushMySweet1 Thanks for checking!
i got mine fully assembled from china for like 45 bucks on aliexpress.
I'm confused, solding is needed or not? Seems like buttons just need to pushed inside PCB
You'll need to solder in the hotswap sockets (so you can push them in like you see in the vid) or solder the switches directly to the PCB.
I like you concept ,planning to build arcade stick UFB fusion antagonist pcb on my own ,but normal platform don’t very suitable on mk1 ，have mixbox razer panthera etokki and hori fight stick all don’t feel very well on mk1
You'll have to post your final MK build on r/fightsticks when you finish it so we can see it. Thanks for watching!
How do I make sure my PCB is compatible with the xbox series x? Is there a way to make it compatible with ps5, pc, and series x?
Xbox doesn't work right now with GP2040-CE firmware. Similarly, you'd likely need some MagicBoots pass-through tech (there's another video on this channel which sort of explains it) for PS4/5 compatibility. If you need all of those systems, you'll likely need something like a Fusion board and a more traditional Hitbox-style all-button controller. Thanks for watching.
very nice
Hey, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Looking into this. For the 3d printed housing, there are two files for the bottom half - "bottom" and "bottom-hotswap." I am guessing the bottom hotswap is only if you put hotswap sockets in your board. Is this correct?
I believe that's correct. I want to say that hot-swap bottom has an ever-so-slightly deeper area for the buttons to accommodate the hotswap stuff.
Hi if you dont mind me asking, where did you get those white concave buttons on the premium version? Thanks in advance love your videos btw!
I got them from a fightstick buddy, TheTrain several months back (so it's hard to remember everything). He's got a pretty good 3d printer, so maybe that's what he did. Sorry that's not more help, but thanks for watching!
Would love to see more detail on setting up the interface with the PC or console.
It's a little different depending on your model. Basically though, you'll just need to flash the appropriate firmware. Just scroll down to the one you're making, download the corresponding firmware and follow the firmware installation steps. I'll leave some handy links to help you out. Good luck! gp2040-ce.info/downloads/ gp2040-ce.info/installation/
Hey HushMySweet, awesome video! I would really like to utilize a rev 4 version of that acrylic from PCBWay. How would I go about doing this? Could you help a fellow FGC player out lol? I also thought about doing a little bit of a mod to the case by extended its dimensions and depth a bit for some padding. Any advice?
I can point you in the right direction, but it may be more complicated. You'll need to start using tinkercad or kicad, and practice with some PCB edits. The reason this Flatbox is more appealing is because all of the thinking/testing work is already done so you can just use a PCB that's ready to go. You might consider joining the open stick community discord as well. They can help with specific issues. discord.gg/j9g64Pqm Good luck!
I can't really tell from the video, are the 3d printed caps concave? if not, what should I do if I want concave ones?
They are flat, so not exactly true concave or convex. If you want some concave ones, then Junk Food Arcade sells caps for their Micros which will fit this. You could try there. Good luck in the hunt, and thanks for watching!
I'm watching the video and it seems without 3d printer this will be about as expensive as just buying new hitbox from a shop ?
Oh, definitely not. A true branded HitBox is $250 before shipping. A Flatbox-style build is $100 if you buy direct from a company fully assembled (see SGF and their Bridget controller which is a Flatbox variant). What's the print go for? For sure not more than $20 of filament. Search for 3D print services (or even some libraries) and upload the enclosure files to get a quote. When all is said and done, you should be able to make a Rev 4 for like $50 or $60. The downside is that you typically have to order assembled PCBs in batches of 5.
Im gonna build both a flatbox and a hitbox
But question, i would like to know where do you get the transparent case? I would like to design an art for it.
Like does it need to connect to the 3d printed case or is its own case?
PCBWay donated it for this project. You can use normal 3d printers, but they had some high end resin printers, so I had the case halves printed in premium transparent resin. It costs substantially more than regular 3d printing though (so like $100 just for the case). Good luck with the project!
In games like Soulcalibur VI, there are certain moves that demand frame-perfect input of one button followed by another button with zero overlap between the two, which is accomplished by fiercely sliding your finger(s) across the buttons. So when I see these new low profile controllers popping up it makes me cringe a little because they all seem to have textured buttons that are flat or even concave, instead of convex and smooth to allow for such slide inputs. If someone starts making proper injection molded smooth convex button caps for these low profile switches, I'd say they would have a winner on their hands.
I feel ya, but there are some that do. Don't quote me on this, but I think the SGF Zappa and a newer prototype from Mavercade have higher end injection-molded button caps. Maybe the Slab Mini as well? I need to review more controllers to see for sure. Plus Junk Food Customs sells smoother caps for their Micros which should work with these units. But I get ya. I think they have to be 3d printed to be cost efficient for a lot of these smaller controller businesses, but we are seeing some more "proper" buttons coming up. Thanks for watching/commenting!
you can sand the 3d printed button to have the surface you want, is to time consuming tho... buttons like the one you want are starting to pop up from molding, a good start is to find razer kitsune buttons aliexpress already has it (cheaper options will show up in some months tho)
@@HushMySweet1 I took a look at the brands you mentioned and I'm pretty sure those buttons are from Punk Workshop, or maybe are clones? It's hard to tell for sure, but I had previously wondered if the Punk caps were smooth enough or not. Maybe at EVO I'll run into someone with some of these on a controller to try out.
@@Iantrypsk I took a look and didn't find anything, and wouldn't it be odd for them to have parts for a product that isn't even going to be released for a while yet?
@@KyleJohnsonVA idk if where clones, could be, had razer switches... is not a hard product to clone, even harvesting a cap you like and putting on the mechanical switch you like is not that hard or particularly fragile after its done. could be an interesting side hustle for a teenager with a 3d printer going to EVO... do ones with Crown/Sanwa/Qanba caps :p
What was the total cost after building your own?
That resin-printed Rev5 version is a bit more expensive, but the other Rev4 3d print one should be able to be duplicated for like $50-60.
Great video! By chance do you know the sizing of the heat set inserts that were used for this project?
I believe I used these ones here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8GN63S2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@HushMySweet1 thanks for the link mate! They really need to update the documentation with this important detail.
woudl it be possible to edit the buttons to act as tilts and slow walk for smash? i use my box for mk1 and sf6 but it'd be really convenient if i could use this for smash too
I don't know the ins and outs of Smash very well so I'm not sure. What are the inputs for tilts? Just a single button press or something beyond that? If it's a combination, then you'd likely be in macro territory and some players would probably take issue with that. (But I'm out of my element because I know so little about the game.)
interesting video. you say this is inexpensive so what is the total cost in parts to making your own flatbox?
also how much more would it cost to make one for the PS5 versus PS4?
Typically, you should be able to make a Rev 4 one for like $50-60. Depends a bit on your access to a 3d printer. One more issue is that a lot of these assembly services have a minimum order count of 5 (so you'll have practice boards or extras to finish and give/sell to your friends in the scene). PS5 stuff is still super expensive right now and there isn't a good open source option. I hope that changes here in the future, but as it sits now, you'd need to integrate a Brook Fusion board into the build and those are like $130 by themselves. I have a video coming at the end of this week which showcases a PS5-compatible Flatbox-esque build, but it's a product review and not a how-to. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@HushMySweet1 thanks for the reply.
Wondering if there is a PCB translation that can utilize the UFB or UFB-Fusion from Brook. Only recently thinking about tackling a custom project, for kicks.
I've not seen one that's open source like this, but the SGF Zappa sort of fits what you're describing. When someone uploads a free equivalent on GitHub I will make it. Thanks for watching!
Is it possible to find PCBs and enclosure files that use different button layouts? I would like to have a leverless controller that puts the L1/L2 buttons just above the face buttons so they're more easily reachable, rather than needing to reach your pinky.
Not that I'm aware of. Hopefully this video acts as a catalyst to get more people into the PCB design process. You can also join the Open Stick Community discord (they can help with questions) and try your own hand at the next big design. Good luck!
how much did it cost though?
The resin case rev 5 is going to be more spendy, but you should be able to fab up something close to the white/black rev 4 in this vid for like $50-60 I would say.
Do you know of a keyboard style layout? like wasd for movement and 8 button layout on the right? Looking for small buttons/keys and aligned in a straight fashion, not curved like 95% of leverless controllers I find
Nothing off the top of my head. At least not open source. I was sent a Haute controller similar to what you're describing, but there are so many videos ahead of it, I likely won't get to that review for a while. Let us know if you find anything in the meantime that works.
Hey, im building the flatbox rev 4 and the pcb's i ordered did not come with usb connector or the raspberry pi, what is the second smaller square that is up and left of the raspberry pi?
That little flash memory chip? Or if you don't have a usb connector or RP2040 chip, maybe you have a Rev 5? Otherwise if this is a Rev 4, then you may have yourself a completely unassembled board with nothing at all on it? That doesn't bode well because there's a lot of stuff you'd need to add that can't really be soldered by hand.
i had the rev 4 completely unassembled lol, I ordered new pcbs with the parts on it but I am 100% doing the rev 5 next time@@HushMySweet1
@@easypeasygamers6885 Glad you got it figured out!
Hi! what size of heat set insert did you use? Amazing video!
Thanks for watching! I bought them on Amazon: AIEX 100pcs 3D Printing Brass Nuts, M2 Threaded Insert, Knurled Brass Nuts, Female Thread Knurled Heat Embedment Nut for 3D Printing Parts Loptop Automotive Plastic Shell (M2x3x3.5mm)
is there a way to make it even more DIY and so it without PCB? just soldering all buttons directly to the raspberryPi?
I'm not quite sure I fully understand, but this is actually what I would consider pretty DIY-friendly if you are a thorough reader. Thanks for watching!
@@HushMySweet1 What I mean its if theres a way to make this work with Literally just switches and raspberry Pi . without the need for PCB manufacturer and 3d printing. after some search online looks like its posible. so yeaa
Is the flat top ok for rsi/carpal tunnel and do you think theres an "ergonomic" template out there?
It's okay, but not ideal if you're suffering from carpal tunnel issues. I don't know of a truly ergonomic one off the top of my head. You're thinking of a top that is tented or something, yes? You could look into the open stick project discord and see if anyone there could point you to a modified template, or help you create your own. Thanks for watching!
Do you know if there is a service / builder where I can order flatbox style controllers with custom button / switch placements? I don't like the hitbox layout because it's too cramped for me. Also, I'd prefer a long button in the middle, like a space key froma keyboard, since two Up-buttons don't comply with the current Capcom rules anymore. Unfortunately, I have no idea where I can get something like this. I've looked on etsy and aliexpress to no avail.
something like this minus the left pinky button: i.imgur.com/RE4ZFBo.jpg
Mavercade offers something similar to what you're asking and they are experimenting with different / extra button placements in some of their new controllers. You could also commission someone in the Open Stick Community discord to help you build exactly what you want. discord.gg/zjJgvAM5 The issue with this path is that you'll typically have to buy minimum 5 PCBs from these assembly services, so you'll have that on top of those costs. Good luck with the project and let us know what you come up with!
@@HushMySweet1 thanks! Yes, I've seen mavercade's new designs earlier today. Looks very promising.
How much did it cost for the one with transparent enclosure? Thanks!
The transparent resin case alone was like $100, but I had it donated for the project by PCBWay. If you just want to buy a typical Rev5 one, there's someone selling more standard 3d-printed versions for $120.
I'm curious what the total cost of the parts and shell were if you happen to have a breakdown anywhere
Typically, you should be able to make a Rev 4 one for like $50-60. Depends a bit on your access to a 3d printer. One more issue is that a lot of these assembly services have a minimum order count of 5 (so you'll have practice boards or extras to finish and give/sell to your friends in the scene). Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
was this plug and play with sf6/steam? Im pretty much done with my build but its not registering on steam.. I see it when I use an online hardware tester and all the buttons are being read fine on the hardware tester
Hmmm...could you try changing the input mode to see if that would help? Just hold the appropriate button as you plug it in and then everything is saved for future (so you'd only need to do this one time if you find the right one). I want to say this happened to me once and I changed the input to something else and it solved it.
To change the input mode, hold one of the following buttons as the controller is plugged in:
B1 for Nintendo Switch
B2 for XInput
B3 for DirectInput/PS3
B4 for PS4
R2 for Keyboard
gp2040-ce.info/#/usage
@@HushMySweet1 is this using the gp2040 firmware or the jfedor firmware?
@@floridacaninecenter I'm in and out today so hard to troubleshoot this in real time. Try joining discord.gg/G4TCGPem on discord and the members there will be able to help you get it solved.
@@HushMySweet1 thank you!
Do you mind telling me your total cost on this? pad has been hurting my hands a lot lately but I don't really have the money to invest in a hitbox (even if I did, they're all sold out).
That resin one with the Rev5 board is going to be more expensive, but if low price is priority, that Rev4 version with the 3d printed case (the white one with the black keycaps) should be about $50-60 if you want to build a similar one yourself. Good luck!
any way to buy an acrylic case with the heat set inserts already in it?
I don't see anyone selling acrylic cases even w/o the inserts. I think part of that reason is these units are supposed to be small and inexpensive, so when you start subbing out that cheap 3d printed case for a $100 acrylic one, you lose a lot of potential buyers. I just ordered this one as a one-off from PCBWay. You could likely do the same. Then, just wallow the heat set insert cavities ever so slightly with a multi-tool, and then epoxy or super glue them in place. (Skip the heat entirely.) Just make sure they are standing as straight as possible and you don't get any of your glue inside the inserts. Good luck and thanks for watching!
how did you use the dxf file on pcb way for the plexi/resin top?
You'll need to upload the .stl files on to their website. Here is the bottom section: github.com/TheTrainGoes/flatbox-rev5-rgb/blob/main/Flatbox%20rev%205%20RGB%20case%20-%20Art%20Case/Flatbox%20rev%205%20RGB%20-%20Art%20Case%20-%20Main%20Frame.stl
So how much money spending should I expect from doing this kinds of builds?
Depends a bit on how much you can do yourself. But, for the Rev4 version, I would say $50-60 is a reasonable amount to anticipate.
@@HushMySweet1 Thanks! I was planning on switching to a hitbox style controller but acquiring such a controller is hard here in the PH. I was planning on modding my Qanba Obsidian to a hitbox but getting the hardware and shipping is expensive. My other and easier option is the mixbox mod but I'd rather have a hitbox. So this looks like an easier option for me to do, just hoping for a cheaper shipping fee.
So do I need to buy the PCB through them or can I have a local manufacturer create it by giving them the blueprints/plans?
You can have any PCB assembly service do it for you. PCBWay was the video sponsor and provided some stuff, so I chose to represent them here.
@@HushMySweet1 Awesome! Where can I get the plans for the PCB for other PCB assembly services?
The only reason I ask is because I'm based in South Africa so shipping from the USA to here will be really expensive.
@@Cezkarma Github. Find the version you want and read through the readme and walkthrough information. That should answer most of your questions.
@@HushMySweet1 thank you so much
Rev5 price is "more spendy", can we get a USD conversion on that?
That resin shell was like $100 by itself (but maybe you don't care about the enclosure). You can walk through a PCB assembly and do it yourself, or you can go with a vendor. Looks like the Rev5 ones are selling for $140. discodirt.com/products/flatbox-5-rgb-rev-2
I don’t understand, where do you buy the PCB for these?
You either use the files and order directly from a PCB assembly place like PCBWay. Or you can buy a pre-built one offered from different etsy sellers or from the folks on the SGF website.
@HushMySweet1 Many thanks!