Our boiler was inoperable because the float had a hole and filled with water. It then naturally sank, telling the gas valve that the boiler had no water in it. My first repair to our system was to remove the leaking float and blow down valve, clean out the housing, then replace the float and blow down valve with the newer ball version. With the float and the blow down valve removed it was much more easily cleaned out with an old screwdriver without fear of puncturing the new float. Great illustration of how crust these things get inside. Thanks Gordo!
A few times if the top tee leaked with the internal flare I would cut that out and use a standard brass tee on top with a flare nut and flare adapter (or compression) in the tee then a 1/2" od sweat 90 on the tubing going down into the compression adapter because you couldn't make the bend with the flare adapter taking up more room. Always worked fine.
Certainly the 67 with its iron body was never the best design. But I wonder how many millions of them were sold and they worked reliably if serviced properly. Back in the old days they were pretty much all we had although Honeywell and Watts mad a similar control with a mercury switch which were not any better.
Can you recommend an electronic LWCO for a 200,000-BTU Peerless 61 steam boiler circa 1998? My Model 67 is gunked up and frozen. Maybe time to replace rather than rebuild...
@@interstateB It might come down to the age and condition of your boiler. If you consult your boiler's instructions, there might be a 3/4" tapping indicated where you can mount the probe. Getting that plug out will be necessary. As to which electronic lwco, Hydrolevel's 450 should do If l remember correctly, Peerless 61 boilers run their lwco circuit at 120 volts.
I have two 40 yr steam boilers shearing the same 6inch steam header,boilers are located in the basement they service air handles and a few radiators though out the first and second floor. What kind of vacuum breaker would you recommend for a system like this.
@@penguinlife927 I have tried the backwards check valve vacuum breaker technique, and it didn't work for me (it leaked water all the time). But please give it a try, it might work for you. I usually wind up using a Hoffman vacuum breaker (SKU # 401443). Works, but not cheap. You can also try the Barnes & Jones vacuum breaker, too.
I have seen a brass bodied MM float switch. Guess why they dont make those b/c they were less likely to fail Local parts suppliers generally do not have parts other than gaskets. Usually not worth fixing as the parts and labour add up to a new replacement. Locally, probe sensors on steam are not allowed. Wah Wah.
@@gordonborsboom7460 Thank you for your comments! Please, sir, could you elaborate on your comment about a local ban on probe-type LWCO? That sounds like something from 1954 and not 2024.
@gordonschweizer5154 the "Jurisdiction having Authority" will go to sites with steam boilers and test the safeties. As such, they want to SEE that a mechanism actuates to open a circuit and shut down the boiler. Just pushing a TEST button on a control is not sufficient of a test of authority over the burner operation. Every commercial residence with a steam boiler must be opened for inspection annually for an in-person inspection and then reassembled and tested by a qualified technician. Where as in the case of hydronics boilers being installed or tested, probe type LWCO are allowed. Single residence steam systems are inspected only at the installation and what happens to the controls afterwards is not subject to oversight. So technically a single family steam system could have probe type level sensors, but I have not seen one, and the suppliers do not carry any that are rated for steam, at least as I am aware, since demand would be too low. I have inquired, and that was the answer I recieved
Learned on boilers with nothing but a safety relief for a "safety". Hand-fired ship's boiler. Something around 490 psi, 750 steam (superheated). Retired USCG licensed Marine Engineer and State Licensed Stationary Engineer. Spent most of my career in power generation and gas compression. It was great training.
Thank you very much for adding your story to this channel! Compared to you, my job is easy. I only have to heat the building, not move it thru the ocean at 30 knots! Be well. Stay safe.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Our boiler was inoperable because the float had a hole and filled with water. It then naturally sank, telling the gas valve that the boiler had no water in it. My first repair to our system was to remove the leaking float and blow down valve, clean out the housing, then replace the float and blow down valve with the newer ball version. With the float and the blow down valve removed it was much more easily cleaned out with an old screwdriver without fear of puncturing the new float. Great illustration of how crust these things get inside. Thanks Gordo!
👍👍👍
That OEM tubing notorious for leaking definitely made me work late, one time lol. Great explanation.
Aye, & thank you!
I have heard of workers soldering that joint to get it to stop leaking (at least until the check clears!).
I appreciate your straightforward opinions and fact delivery, as always
You're most welcome. Thanks for your kind words.
Rust never sleeps but you don’t either. You’re posting videos at 2 AM. 😮
A few times if the top tee leaked with the internal flare I would cut that out and use a standard brass tee on top with a flare nut and flare adapter (or compression) in the tee then a 1/2" od sweat 90 on the tubing going down into the compression adapter because you couldn't make the bend with the flare adapter taking up more room. Always worked fine.
Certainly the 67 with its iron body was never the best design. But I wonder how many millions of them were sold and they worked reliably if serviced properly. Back in the old days they were pretty much all we had although Honeywell and Watts mad a similar control with a mercury switch which were not any better.
Can you recommend an electronic LWCO for a 200,000-BTU Peerless 61 steam boiler circa 1998? My Model 67 is gunked up and frozen. Maybe time to replace rather than rebuild...
@@interstateB It might come down to the age and condition of your boiler.
If you consult your boiler's instructions, there might be a 3/4" tapping indicated where you can mount the probe.
Getting that plug out will be necessary.
As to which electronic lwco, Hydrolevel's 450 should do
If l remember correctly, Peerless 61 boilers run their lwco circuit at 120 volts.
@@gordonschweizer5154thank you!
I have two 40 yr steam boilers shearing the same 6inch steam header,boilers are located in the basement they service air handles and a few radiators though out the first and second floor. What kind of vacuum breaker would you recommend for a system like this.
We use a swing check valve in the reverse position with a water trap in front of it.
Cleaver Brooks does the same.
@@penguinlife927 I have tried the backwards check valve vacuum breaker technique, and it didn't work for me (it leaked water all the time).
But please give it a try, it might work for you.
I usually wind up using a Hoffman vacuum breaker (SKU # 401443). Works, but not cheap.
You can also try the Barnes & Jones vacuum breaker, too.
I have seen a brass bodied MM float switch. Guess why they dont make those b/c they were less likely to fail
Local parts suppliers generally do not have parts other than gaskets. Usually not worth fixing as the parts and labour add up to a new replacement.
Locally, probe sensors on steam are not allowed. Wah Wah.
@@gordonborsboom7460 Thank you for your comments!
Please, sir, could you elaborate on your comment about a local ban on probe-type LWCO?
That sounds like something from 1954 and not 2024.
@gordonschweizer5154 the "Jurisdiction having Authority" will go to sites with steam boilers and test the safeties. As such, they want to SEE that a mechanism actuates to open a circuit and shut down the boiler. Just pushing a TEST button on a control is not sufficient of a test of authority over the burner operation. Every commercial residence with a steam boiler must be opened for inspection annually for an in-person inspection and then reassembled and tested by a qualified technician.
Where as in the case of hydronics boilers being installed or tested, probe type LWCO are allowed. Single residence steam systems are inspected only at the installation and what happens to the controls afterwards is not subject to oversight. So technically a single family steam system could have probe type level sensors, but I have not seen one, and the suppliers do not carry any that are rated for steam, at least as I am aware, since demand would be too low. I have inquired, and that was the answer I recieved
Learned on boilers with nothing but a safety relief for a "safety". Hand-fired ship's boiler. Something around 490 psi, 750 steam (superheated).
Retired USCG licensed Marine Engineer and State Licensed Stationary Engineer.
Spent most of my career in power generation and gas compression. It was great training.
Thank you very much for adding your story to this channel!
Compared to you, my job is easy.
I only have to heat the building, not move it thru the ocean at 30 knots!
Be well. Stay safe.