Amazing work sir. I've heard people make an issue on steam fittings and black fitting on steam piping, does it make a difference? I'm also curious as to whether you need to be a Licensed Master plumber in your area if you're exclusively dealing with boiler installs.
Thank you very much for your kind words! I am sure that it makes no difference using either malleable or cast iron in steam heating performance. Way back when, cast iron fittings were cheaper than malleable, as it requires further heat treatment, even though there is more metal in cast then black. In order to remain competitive, the cheapest was used. Now, cast is harder to get and is much more expensive. In a lot of areas, however, cast is required by the local code because of tradition. But cast iron is not all that its cracked up to be. I'll see myself out....
Thank you very much! In our area, the water quality is not too bad (not too much TDS, and a more or less neutral pH) Well water in the outlying suburbs and more rural areas, not so much to be sure. But even so, some water additives are nice, I'll warrant. But a lot aren't, and tend to get over-sold and over-dosed in various systems with often disastrous results. If the customer is engaged with their system, and doesn't mind tinkering with the water (increasing the pH, for one), then have at it! But for us, we'll stick with the boiler manufacturer's written cleaning protocol.
Nice work as always Gordon, how long on average would you do a no return flush & can the wet return foul up to the extent that the system would completely stop?
Usually, we don't run the no return flush for very long on start-up/commissioning. Steam starts rolling out fairly quickly on some systems. Yes, the wet returns can get completely clogged up. That happens most often when there is long standing water hammer, which generates rust sludge, that then gets washed down into the garbage pail of steam systems, the wet return.
With all the available head room why not have the pipes extend even higher before dropping down into the drop header? After watching the glass header demonstration on youtube I would want alot more height than the manufacturer calls for.
The install shown already is higher than the minimum called for by about a 1/2 foot. The manufacturer does not even call out for a dropped header, which I would argue dries out the steam more efficiently than merely adding extra height. The extra height you suggest adding would be in 2" (restrictive), whereas the extra height that was needed to get from the header to the supplies is 2.5 in and 3 in, which slows down the velocity of the vapor, allowing any water droplets that have gotten that far to remain in the header.
We drilled into that pipe and threaded it to mount that vent. Ideally, you are right, a taller nipple would be better. But too long of a nipple with just a few threads holding it would not be prudent.
@@gordonschweizer5154true. I have never drilled and tapped along a length of pipe. Wish you could demonstrate that!! That could save my ass so many times over😂
Gordon, Your skills are superlative, as is the finished boiler installation.
Awesome job guys! Best craftsmanship in the business.
You are most welcome!
Its so cool how you get to exclusively work on old steam systems. Im jealous.
Thank you. We regard it as a privilege to work on these systems.
Nice job !
Amazing work sir. I've heard people make an issue on steam fittings and black fitting on steam piping, does it make a difference? I'm also curious as to whether you need to be a Licensed Master plumber in your area if you're exclusively dealing with boiler installs.
Thank you very much for your kind words!
I am sure that it makes no difference using either malleable or cast iron in steam heating performance.
Way back when, cast iron fittings were cheaper than malleable, as it requires further heat treatment, even though there is more metal in cast then black.
In order to remain competitive, the cheapest was used.
Now, cast is harder to get and is much more expensive.
In a lot of areas, however, cast is required by the local code because of tradition.
But cast iron is not all that its cracked up to be.
I'll see myself out....
A work of art. I notice that you never use boiler water additives. Any specific reason?
Thank you very much!
In our area, the water quality is not too bad (not too much TDS, and a more or less neutral pH)
Well water in the outlying suburbs and more rural areas, not so much to be sure.
But even so, some water additives are nice, I'll warrant.
But a lot aren't, and tend to get over-sold and over-dosed in various systems with often disastrous results.
If the customer is engaged with their system, and doesn't mind tinkering with the water (increasing the pH, for one), then have at it!
But for us, we'll stick with the boiler manufacturer's written cleaning protocol.
Nice work as always Gordon, how long on average would you do a no return flush & can the wet return foul up to the extent that the system would completely stop?
Usually, we don't run the no return flush for very long on start-up/commissioning.
Steam starts rolling out fairly quickly on some systems.
Yes, the wet returns can get completely clogged up.
That happens most often when there is long standing water hammer, which generates rust sludge, that then gets washed down into the garbage pail of steam systems, the wet return.
With all the available head room why not have the pipes extend even higher before dropping down into the drop header? After watching the glass header demonstration on youtube I would want alot more height than the manufacturer calls for.
The install shown already is higher than the minimum called for by about a 1/2 foot.
The manufacturer does not even call out for a dropped header, which I would argue dries out the steam more efficiently than merely adding extra height.
The extra height you suggest adding would be in 2" (restrictive), whereas the extra height that was needed to get from the header to the supplies is 2.5 in and 3 in, which slows down the velocity of the vapor, allowing any water droplets that have gotten that far to remain in the header.
That nipple to the #1 vent looks a little short!!
What is the time stamp on the video showing your concern?
@ 6:45. I thought Dan stated a 6-8” nipple up to the vent. Maybe the video is deceptive
We drilled into that pipe and threaded it to mount that vent.
Ideally, you are right, a taller nipple would be better.
But too long of a nipple with just a few threads holding it would not be prudent.
@@gordonschweizer5154true. I have never drilled and tapped along a length of pipe. Wish you could demonstrate that!! That could save my ass so many times over😂
@@Clamjammer Here is a video of drilling and tapping a fitting ua-cam.com/video/vgiDA6ufbmk/v-deo.html