Well I owe you some beers. I am currently at the “snapped the line going to the ac condenser” part of the project. Previous owner put hex bolts in the schrader valves, im guessing to keep it a closed system, so I am following your video closely here. Thanks again man
Pulling a vacuum for 15 minutes will remove more water than keeping a vacuum for 1 minute. A pressure of 2 inches of mercury (approximately 28 inches of vacuum) will lower the boiling point of water to about 2 F versus the normal boiling point of 212 F at 29.92 inches of mercury (atmospheric pressure). Just like boiling water on the stove, the longer you boil, the more water evaporates (until it is gone). The low pressure allows the water to vaporize at a low temperature and boil off. If you have little water in the system (new drier) then it won't matter much. If you have a system where the drier has been open to humid air, there could be quite a bit of water.
Holding vacuum at the same amount of hg is not going to "pull" anything out of a sealed system. It has no place to go. If I put 25hg in a system for even 5 seconds, and remove vacuum, the amount in hg does not change. If evaporation did occur, with water in the system, the hg amount would drop. I'm fairly certain that if someone put a cup of water in a system, "pulled" vacuum for 15 minutes, the amount of water that could be measured coming out of the system would be whatever amount of water came out during the time it takes to go from atmosphere to max hg, and not a cup. Besides, if "pulling" vacuum removed the water, you would not need a desiccant bag in the system. It would be as dry as a pot on a stove when you boil it to nothing.
@@RustBeltAuto Correct. Hence "pulling" not just holding. Don't remove the vacuum source. Consider this: You can buy reusable dessicant, saturate it, place it in the oven, boil the water out out and use it again. By the same token, when you boil off water and give it place to go - in this case your 350 cubic inch vacuum pump's exhaust - the water is reduced. I agree that when you shut off the pump what is there, in the closed system, is still there. Thank you for the video by the way. I shelled the compressor on my 93 suburban and I'm replacing the condenser with all of the other stuff. I agree with your disgust for the crappy replacement parts!
@@ratvette4566 pulling vacuum at 25hg, and holding it is the same thing. You would need to let in a dry substance in the opposing end in order to exchange it to make a difference in the substance contained in the unit. People are taught a lot of misinformation. I know, because I am ASE, and MACS certified in air conditioning systems, and it gives me quite a bit of head shaking. I'm still waiting for someone to actually prove my thinking wrong about the subject. It is good to replace the accumulator, and it is good to get as much air out as possible, but this whole boil water out in vacuum, at room temperature, in a sealed system is a little far fetched. Like I say, The idea has more to do with differential pressure, than the science behind boiling water at room temperature. If you have ever seen a video of someone boiling water in vacuum, it doesn't go anywhere. It doesn't condensate, and evaporate, like a pot of hot water. It just sits there, changes temperature, and bubbles. There is also no air flow to push anything out. No one knows how much water is actually in a system either. For as many times as I have not replaced an accumulator/receiver drier, and gotten good long lasting cold air conditioning, I cannot believe most of the time it is very much at all. People make it sound like if you open the system, you will get a rain storm, with high winds, thunder and lightning in there or something. People also leave out the fact that PAG oil is hygroscopic, just like brake fluid.
@@RustBeltAuto I'm ASE and an engineer of commercial HVAC systems. Bubbles = expansion=pressure rise. When the vacuum on the otherwise closed system begins to stabilize... with the pump running there can still be flow, however minute. When you first turn on the vacuum pump, pressure begins to drop, moving towards zero. Any vapor pressure such as the "steam head" coming off of the water that is transitioning to a gas, moves toward the lower pressure as well. The pump removes the obstacle of the atmospheric pressure which would otherwise keep the water in liquid state and inside the system that it is in. Put water in a vessel. Apply a continuous vacuum with a running pump. As the pressure in the vessel nears zero, the water will begin to boil (1psia water boils at 80 F, 0.5 psia water boils at 60 F...). The resulting vapor pressure will begin to rise and exhaust through the pump. Let it run long enough, and the water will disappear. The nothingness of vacuum replaces the water. The main reason you replace the accumulator/receiver/drier is to remove contaminants from a catastrophically failed compressor. For a leaky compressor replacement this is unnecessary unless you want a warranty on your crappy new compressor (mostly the kind that are made now).
@@ratvette4566 "vacuum" is not nothingness. It is a differential pressure from atmosphere. It still has substance. Furthermore the accumulator on this system has no filter. The filters are located on the inlet, and outlet lines of the compressor. Most of your contaminants will be there, and blocked by the fixed orface tube. I will attatch a link to a video showing you where all this water is not going, that I already attached for some other nay sayer down the "you don't know what you are talking about" comment section. It's a really cool video actually. The water boils, gets cold, doesn't loose any volume, and when he removes vacuum it condensates a little, and almost freezes. ua-cam.com/video/glLPMXq6yc0/v-deo.html
If I wasn't a pro, I would say yes. But doing this for a living, if it saves time, my knuckles, and keeps me from getting tendinitis, golfers, and tennis elbow, I'm buying the fancy stuff.
Man...you took the hard road with cleaning out those threads. I ran into the same problem but decided to just replace the hoses. Those filters in the manifold hose are probably dirty and hell after 20 years anyway. Great vid though. I loved your vacuum idea.
Glad to see- Not that I revel in other people's problems - Just that I had the same problem replacing mine - FK-in Bolts won't release. One hour job takes three hours. 4 Years later my condenser is leaking again - Cheap China crap - Good luck and thanks for taking the time to do the video.
Just gotta say here - when you apply vacuum to a "closed" system, whether off a vacuum pump or using the engine's vacuum, it's not closed at all. The vaporized water does have somewhere to go - it follows the pressure differential and leaves from either the vacuum pump's chimney or into the engine's crankcase. If you've ever applied a vacuum pump on a system left open for a while, you can see the water vapor condensing as it leaves the chimney and hits the atmosphere. While it takes some time for newly vaporized water molecules in an accumulator (or elsewhere deeper in the system) to redistribute throughout the system, they will eventually be pulled out at the point of lowest pressure - the vacuum source, then out the chimney. That's why more time is better. The law of decreasing returns applies here and I've heard of obsessive types applying hours of vacuum to get the system "really dry", but fifteen minutes is better than five.
Great commentary. As for orifice, depending on high press hose assembly, in my case a suburban, below the air filter the high pressure hose has a "joint" connection, similar to the connection on the condenser That particular joint, below the air filter, is where my orifice tube is located. Parts wise, the orifice and Schrader valves I bought OEM on Amazon close to same cost at O'Reilly's auto parts As for me, though your explanation is good, I pull a vacuum for a few minutes and let the system sit for a few minutes watching gauges. This can also show if there is a leak somewhere else in the system. You also used a cylinder of 134A. Why not use a scale and add the amount required
My 1997 K1500 350 small block is the single best vehicle I have ever owned. With 165k miles, it is a beater with all but 2 seats removed and it is a flippen fortress on wheels. I loved when you said, People get out of my way! Yes they do, and they better! ;-) Great presentation. My AC is ok however my rear condenser is gone and I need to freshly reconnect the front condenser. Can you take a minute and offer advice. I will pay for time and the lines if you can help out. AC to me is a pain in the royal tucass, however in Arizona it is mandatory! Thanks! MarkMannM2 offer is for anyone that knows GM AC 1997 is the year....
Also, no controls for the AC I just want ON full and off, The blower and duct work is all set, I need to rig an on-off with relay. Oh, YES! You must get water vapor out and OIL the system! Did you grab the vacuum line from the brake assist line? An air tire shader valve was your slow leak.... I'm 85% sure of it! Air is way different than R22 (molecularly). I bet the guy was ready to put green slime in the AC system.... hehehehehe... NEVER use AC sealer, AC oil should be used after evac.
I'm just now getting around to changing this condenser and I ran into the same problem with the nuts getting stuck, thankfully WD-40 and patience got em broke loose.
At about 10:40 you mentioned a "stopper" in the condenser tube. I cant tell whether you got that stopper out... can i assume that you somehow fished it out to allow you to insert the orifice tube? My new condenser has what looks like a "cross" stopper in the tube and prevents the orifice from going in. I havent figured out yet how to get that cross stopper out.
I don't inderstand, but there are crimps in the tube that keeps the oraface from going in too far. If you see it, you can pull it out, and put the new one in its place.
You shouldn't have any problems getting COVID from all those peetree dishes you are driving around. I will prey for you. Notice the word play there? Stay healthy!
Need some info. For a 98 gmc k1500 5.0L v8 1/2 pickup so whats the difference of a non automatic adjusting orifice tube vs an adjustable orifice tube. Which is better cool and performance ?
what issues would i have if i just removed it and didnt replace it. i already deleted my compressor so i am not worried about my ac working. i am trying to delete the condenser, the accumulator, compressor, and the lines.
Thanks for the video, I'm finishing up replacing my condenser today and hopefully no other problems pop up afterwards. I agree that the condenser they made for the vehicle is just a crappy hunk of metal but atleast I have a lifetime warranty on it.
Rust Belt Auto it's funny cause we ran into the same problems you did. Took a blow torch to the screw connections and jacked around with it for over an hour and finally got it to loosen with two sets of hands. Aluminum threading stripped into the female thread so we spent a while picking it out.
I replaced my condenser on my '96 Tahoe and the same bottom fitting gave me a hard time. I had a shop charge it anyways and ac worked for a day then the next morning i heard a hissing sound coming from that same fitting with the orifice tube. Do you have any ideas to rig up something to join the line to the condensor or should the line and condensor be replaced?
Alright so I just changed my condensor, and my receiver/drier, and the tube that separates hot from cold. I'm pretty sure I created enough vacuum and added the correct amount of oil. But I am still not blowing cold air. And now, my compressor turns on and it doesn't turn off when my AC is turned on. Do I have an issue with my compressor now?
Hey man, just wanted to say thanks for the much needed guidance. AND PLEASE IF YOU COULD GET BACK TO ME, I AM TRYING TO CREATE THE "VACUUM" MYSELF BUT I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT IT WAS THAT YOU HOOKED THE HOSE TO TO CREATE THAT VACUUM. SO PLEASE, WHEN YOU GET A CHANCE, I'D REALLY APPRECIATE IT. THANKS
Manifold vacuum happens when you run the vehicle at idle. If you run it, and take off a manifold vacuum line, you will feel it sucking. I think I used the hose going to the brake booster on that one. There was an extra small hose capped off at the booster. Can't remember for sure. If you have an air compressor, there is a little cheap red gizmo you can get from harbor freight for 15$ too.
On the vaccum topic running for 15minutes does remove more moisture than 5 seconds. You are changing a physical condition inside the system when a vaccum is applied moisture among other low evaporation point solvents will change state to gas which at point, becomes available positive pressure in the system that your vaccum machine will pull combine that with the leaks from your shradder valve and potential wet or humid conditions near the leak it could possibly draw more moisture in as well! So your logic is wrong but I still think in this case your meathod was best for the system given it had other leaks. But if all leaks are absent there is nothing to loose to run vac for a few more minutes
I already had this discussion about the moisture theory in vacuum with some know everything engineer in the comment section, and choose to go against the grain with the consensus, because I believe it is wrong. It doesn't evaporate. It boils (bubbles), because it is trying to freeze. That's why there is no globs of liquid water in space. It's frozen chunks, and when it gets hot from things like the sun, it evaporates off into liquid vapor. Water (moisture) in a line will not boil (bubble) in vacuum, if it is touching the hose, or pipe due to convection (the warm pipe is keeping it from freezing). What everyone is being taught, may not be the truth. Every vacuum pump, uses a pumping action like an engine, unless you are using something like a steady stream of pressure to create vacuum. Correct me if I'm wrong.
@@RustBeltAuto so here's the thing you don't seem to understand the difference between the state of liquids and gas on a atomic level no big deal science is my strong suit and I know you know what a liquid and gas is but there is not such thing as (both) and we have to understand why liquids will become a gas because it does not have to do 100% with temperature at all. It has to do with ambient pressure as well, and believe me its warn enough on earth to assist the water in your ac lines to "off gas im no youtube harvard chemistry student but I know what im talking about because chemistry is my hobby, I also have did chemical extractions of THC before and fiddled with more complex chemistry where chirality plays a role. there is no relation between the inside of your ac lines and the nice warm climate of the fact that those ac lines are within planet earth and not distant space where temperatures are near absolute zero ! It doesn't matter if its water or liquid nitrogen if there is a vacuum meaning absence of atoms next to water in the lines aka solvent residue because water is the most abundant and useful solvent on earth, anyways that solvent will off gas in a process known as "evaporation" Nothing fancy jist microscopic beads of water that have mass and weight and can be calculated will (boil) out from the other molecules of whatevee gunk is inside and then your continuous vacuuming will evacuate the now gas water vapor. There is no trick or bullshiting believing anything else is choosing to be ignorant and ignore chemistry. Regardless your video is cool and your meathod works fine cause likes I said if you have a leak in the ac line then chances are a continuois vacume will pull more ambient water into the system than it can remove. To grasp a even better understanding of chemistry which I think will do you well because you are smart I would watch some more lab experiments try Nile Reds channel on youtube he has some good videos where vacume rigs are used to speed up experiments that require evaporati
@@sprintcoding7358 differential pressure changes the boiling point of water. If the differential pressure is low enough, it constantly boils, and tries to get cooler, and if the temperature is not high enough, it does not evaporate. High differential pressure raises the boiling point. Temperature, and differential pressure has everything to do with rather or not water is vapor, liquid, or a solid. When you put vacuum in a system, you just got all your going to get out of it, unless you can close the system, and watch the pressure change at the same temperature. If the pressure does not change, nothing of any consequence is going to happen. Liquid water can boil in low temperatures, with low differential pressure, and not evaporate, until it gets cool enough, and the pressure is low enough (vacuum) to freeze. Water is unlike all other elements. It is also lighter as a solid, then a liquid. Which is something no other element does. If vacuum did such a good job (sucking) out all the water vapor like you, and every other educated person suggests, then there would be absolutely no need, or purpose for a dessicant in the system. Before you get back to me with more of your smart comments, about how much you know, and how much I don't, perhaps you should fill an a/c system all the way full with water, put your magic vacuum on the system, and do a video about how all the water in the system will magically get sucked out, until there is nothing but your magic vacuum left.
You are wrong about keeping the vacuum only on for 5 seconds. Sometimes the moisture will just roll , and jt needs time to evaporate out with the suction pressure
I have read that before. That is what the consensus says, and everyone believes it. I'm from a different camp. I believe once you reach peak differential pressure, there is no more flux. It does not evaporate, and instead boils, because liquid water has a lower boiling point, it gets cooler, and is trying to freeze.
Lol u know I liked the video I wish u wouldn’t talk bout a vacuum. The longer u pull a vacuum the more moisture. U don’t want any moisture in the ac system. I pulled a auto ac down to 74 microns. Plus pulling a vacuum is also a good way to tell if u have a leak, old refrigerant trapped in the oil, or still have moisture in the system.
If you pull vacuum in a sealed system, and hold it there, moisture has no place to go. Science states that It boils. It cannot boil out if It has no place else to go. It is good to see if it leaks. The differential pressure can suck some out with air, and make molecules bigger. The consensus that I have been taught to know I see as flawed. Just like refrigerant burning up the ozone layer. Kinda tough for it to get up there when it is heavier than air don't you think? More likely to believe all those rockets getting shot up into space with burning fuel has more to do with it.
This is the worst video I've ever watched. He knows nothing about the science of refrigerant & temperature/pressure realtionships. No talk of subcooling or superheating. The high pressure should never go above 300 @ 85 degrees w/humidity. 85 degrees with humidity should be around 35 to 45 degrees on the low side & the high side about 250 to 275. Good Lord dude....search google!
300psi @ 90 degrees is pretty normal for a good compressor. Depending on the vehicle, some go higher. I might replace my accumulator just to see what happens.
@@RustBeltAuto in a perfect world... it would (& should) be around 250-275. 300 psi could indicate contaminant like air or moisture (or too much oil in the system). High head pressure can be becuase of too much humitdity as well.
@@hesneyk1 you could be right. If this was a perfect world, none of us would be here. I would only second guess myself if the system was not cold enough. That was the time of the year when everyone and their mothers brother was complaining about ac not being cold enough.
Well I owe you some beers. I am currently at the “snapped the line going to the ac condenser” part of the project. Previous owner put hex bolts in the schrader valves, im guessing to keep it a closed system, so I am following your video closely here. Thanks again man
Right on brother, rebuild the frout of my 97 Silverado after the wife wrecked it.
Pulling a vacuum for 15 minutes will remove more water than keeping a vacuum for 1 minute. A pressure of 2 inches of mercury (approximately 28 inches of vacuum) will lower the boiling point of water to about 2 F versus the normal boiling point of 212 F at 29.92 inches of mercury (atmospheric pressure). Just like boiling water on the stove, the longer you boil, the more water evaporates (until it is gone). The low pressure allows the water to vaporize at a low temperature and boil off. If you have little water in the system (new drier) then it won't matter much. If you have a system where the drier has been open to humid air, there could be quite a bit of water.
Holding vacuum at the same amount of hg is not going to "pull" anything out of a sealed system. It has no place to go. If I put 25hg in a system for even 5 seconds, and remove vacuum, the amount in hg does not change. If evaporation did occur, with water in the system, the hg amount would drop. I'm fairly certain that if someone put a cup of water in a system, "pulled" vacuum for 15 minutes, the amount of water that could be measured coming out of the system would be whatever amount of water came out during the time it takes to go from atmosphere to max hg, and not a cup. Besides, if "pulling" vacuum removed the water, you would not need a desiccant bag in the system. It would be as dry as a pot on a stove when you boil it to nothing.
@@RustBeltAuto Correct. Hence "pulling" not just holding. Don't remove the vacuum source. Consider this: You can buy reusable dessicant, saturate it, place it in the oven, boil the water out out and use it again. By the same token, when you boil off water and give it place to go - in this case your 350 cubic inch vacuum pump's exhaust - the water is reduced. I agree that when you shut off the pump what is there, in the closed system, is still there.
Thank you for the video by the way. I shelled the compressor on my 93 suburban and I'm replacing the condenser with all of the other stuff. I agree with your disgust for the crappy replacement parts!
@@ratvette4566 pulling vacuum at 25hg, and holding it is the same thing. You would need to let in a dry substance in the opposing end in order to exchange it to make a difference in the substance contained in the unit. People are taught a lot of misinformation. I know, because I am ASE, and MACS certified in air conditioning systems, and it gives me quite a bit of head shaking. I'm still waiting for someone to actually prove my thinking wrong about the subject. It is good to replace the accumulator, and it is good to get as much air out as possible, but this whole boil water out in vacuum, at room temperature, in a sealed system is a little far fetched. Like I say, The idea has more to do with differential pressure, than the science behind boiling water at room temperature. If you have ever seen a video of someone boiling water in vacuum, it doesn't go anywhere. It doesn't condensate, and evaporate, like a pot of hot water. It just sits there, changes temperature, and bubbles. There is also no air flow to push anything out. No one knows how much water is actually in a system either. For as many times as I have not replaced an accumulator/receiver drier, and gotten good long lasting cold air conditioning, I cannot believe most of the time it is very much at all. People make it sound like if you open the system, you will get a rain storm, with high winds, thunder and lightning in there or something. People also leave out the fact that PAG oil is hygroscopic, just like brake fluid.
@@RustBeltAuto I'm ASE and an engineer of commercial HVAC systems. Bubbles = expansion=pressure rise. When the vacuum on the otherwise closed system begins to stabilize... with the pump running there can still be flow, however minute. When you first turn on the vacuum pump, pressure begins to drop, moving towards zero. Any vapor pressure such as the "steam head" coming off of the water that is transitioning to a gas, moves toward the lower pressure as well. The pump removes the obstacle of the atmospheric pressure which would otherwise keep the water in liquid state and inside the system that it is in.
Put water in a vessel. Apply a continuous vacuum with a running pump. As the pressure in the vessel nears zero, the water will begin to boil (1psia water boils at 80 F, 0.5 psia water boils at 60 F...). The resulting vapor pressure will begin to rise and exhaust through the pump. Let it run long enough, and the water will disappear. The nothingness of vacuum replaces the water.
The main reason you replace the accumulator/receiver/drier is to remove contaminants from a catastrophically failed compressor. For a leaky compressor replacement this is unnecessary unless you want a warranty on your crappy new compressor (mostly the kind that are made now).
@@ratvette4566 "vacuum" is not nothingness. It is a differential pressure from atmosphere. It still has substance. Furthermore the accumulator on this system has no filter. The filters are located on the inlet, and outlet lines of the compressor. Most of your contaminants will be there, and blocked by the fixed orface tube. I will attatch a link to a video showing you where all this water is not going, that I already attached for some other nay sayer down the "you don't know what you are talking about" comment section. It's a really cool video actually. The water boils, gets cold, doesn't loose any volume, and when he removes vacuum it condensates a little, and almost freezes. ua-cam.com/video/glLPMXq6yc0/v-deo.html
I like that the way you did the vacuum I have a 1998 Chevy Tahoe LT and my AC doesn't work Thank You for the tip I like how you fixed the AC.
Poverty promotes creativity.
Great video! Finally a no BS get it done walk through. Thanks man! I owe you a case of Busch
Much prefer a bottle of Sake.
badass brotha the vacuum idea is genius.
Love this video straight to the point learned something new about ac vacuum pump
I just had the same problem but had to replace line because nut was striped bad. Thanks buddy
Same cheap condenser too.
I love the old school..4get the fancy tools as long as you get the same result right
If I wasn't a pro, I would say yes. But doing this for a living, if it saves time, my knuckles, and keeps me from getting tendinitis, golfers, and tennis elbow, I'm buying the fancy stuff.
I love your vacuum idea
Man...you took the hard road with cleaning out those threads. I ran into the same problem but decided to just replace the hoses. Those filters in the manifold hose are probably dirty and hell after 20 years anyway. Great vid though. I loved your vacuum idea.
Yes. My truck. I'm cheap.
Glad to see- Not that I revel in other people's problems - Just that I had the same problem replacing mine - FK-in Bolts won't release. One hour job takes three hours. 4 Years later my condenser is leaking again - Cheap China crap - Good luck and thanks for taking the time to do the video.
Just gotta say here - when you apply vacuum to a "closed" system, whether off a vacuum pump or using the engine's vacuum, it's not closed at all. The vaporized water does have somewhere to go - it follows the pressure differential and leaves from either the vacuum pump's chimney or into the engine's crankcase. If you've ever applied a vacuum pump on a system left open for a while, you can see the water vapor condensing as it leaves the chimney and hits the atmosphere. While it takes some time for newly vaporized water molecules in an accumulator (or elsewhere deeper in the system) to redistribute throughout the system, they will eventually be pulled out at the point of lowest pressure - the vacuum source, then out the chimney. That's why more time is better. The law of decreasing returns applies here and I've heard of obsessive types applying hours of vacuum to get the system "really dry", but fifteen minutes is better than five.
That's pretty damn clever how you did the vacuum 👍.....
Great commentary.
As for orifice, depending on high press hose assembly, in my case a suburban, below the air filter the high pressure hose has a "joint" connection, similar to the connection on the condenser
That particular joint, below the air filter, is where my orifice tube is located.
Parts wise, the orifice and Schrader valves I bought OEM on Amazon close to same cost at O'Reilly's auto parts
As for me, though your explanation is good, I pull a vacuum for a few minutes and let the system sit for a few minutes watching gauges. This can also show if there is a leak somewhere else in the system.
You also used a cylinder of 134A.
Why not use a scale and add the amount required
I have a scale now. Everything in life for me is a work in progress. The spoon fed can do everything right the first time. Thanks for watching!
My 1997 K1500 350 small block is the single best vehicle I have ever owned. With 165k miles, it is a beater with all but 2 seats removed and it is a flippen fortress on wheels. I loved when you said, People get out of my way! Yes they do, and they better! ;-) Great presentation. My AC is ok however my rear condenser is gone and I need to freshly reconnect the front condenser. Can you take a minute and offer advice. I will pay for time and the lines if you can help out. AC to me is a pain in the royal tucass, however in Arizona it is mandatory! Thanks! MarkMannM2 offer is for anyone that knows GM AC 1997 is the year....
Also, no controls for the AC I just want ON full and off, The blower and duct work is all set, I need to rig an on-off with relay. Oh, YES! You must get water vapor out and OIL the system! Did you grab the vacuum line from the brake assist line? An air tire shader valve was your slow leak.... I'm 85% sure of it! Air is way different than R22 (molecularly). I bet the guy was ready to put green slime in the AC system.... hehehehehe... NEVER use AC sealer, AC oil should be used after evac.
If you mean your rear evaporator, i would just delete it. There is a kit to plug the rear lines you can get.
My orifice tubes wouldn't fit either. Tried 2 different ones, same result... Been pulling my hair out wondering why. Nice explanation.
Dude...mind blown. Now I'm wondering why I never thought of using manifold vacuum haha 😂
I'm just now getting around to changing this condenser and I ran into the same problem with the nuts getting stuck, thankfully WD-40 and patience got em broke loose.
At about 10:40 you mentioned a "stopper" in the condenser tube. I cant tell whether you got that stopper out... can i assume that you somehow fished it out to allow you to insert the orifice tube?
My new condenser has what looks like a "cross" stopper in the tube and prevents the orifice from going in. I havent figured out yet how to get that cross stopper out.
I don't inderstand, but there are crimps in the tube that keeps the oraface from going in too far. If you see it, you can pull it out, and put the new one in its place.
I definitely enjoyed the video🧠
Its good advice to fix on a budget. I know what you mean I have a school bus drivers salary .
You shouldn't have any problems getting COVID from all those peetree dishes you are driving around. I will prey for you. Notice the word play there? Stay healthy!
Did it work with running the orfaic tube like that?
@@PITDAWGHYDROs ya
Need some info. For a 98 gmc k1500 5.0L v8 1/2 pickup so whats the difference of a non automatic adjusting orifice tube vs an adjustable orifice tube. Which is better cool and performance ?
Never heard of an adjustable one. It's fixed. Get the right one for the application.
what issues would i have if i just removed it and didnt replace it. i already deleted my compressor so i am not worried about my ac working. i am trying to delete the condenser, the accumulator, compressor, and the lines.
It protects your radiator from rocks, and pebbles. Only benefit I see.
@@RustBeltAuto oh yeah. that is good point. if my radiator looked as rough as my condenser i might have problems. thank you
Thanks for the video, I'm finishing up replacing my condenser today and hopefully no other problems pop up afterwards. I agree that the condenser they made for the vehicle is just a crappy hunk of metal but atleast I have a lifetime warranty on it.
CTRL Z your welcome. One more video I figured no one would watch. You just never know about those things. I hope it came apart better than mine.
Rust Belt Auto it's funny cause we ran into the same problems you did. Took a blow torch to the screw connections and jacked around with it for over an hour and finally got it to loosen with two sets of hands. Aluminum threading stripped into the female thread so we spent a while picking it out.
CTRL Z welcome to my world. The world of the rust belt. Hence the name. Things are different here.
I replaced my condenser on my '96 Tahoe and the same bottom fitting gave me a hard time. I had a shop charge it anyways and ac worked for a day then the next morning i heard a hissing sound coming from that same fitting with the orifice tube. Do you have any ideas to rig up something to join the line to the condensor or should the line and condensor be replaced?
I would replace it. Probably not tight enough. Your call.
@@RustBeltAuto Thanks for the quick reply. Where does the bottom line go to?
@@johnford8369 follow it.
Alright so I just changed my condensor, and my receiver/drier, and the tube that separates hot from cold. I'm pretty sure I created enough vacuum and added the correct amount of oil. But I am still not blowing cold air. And now, my compressor turns on and it doesn't turn off when my AC is turned on. Do I have an issue with my compressor now?
Can you measure both high, and cold side pressures?
@@RustBeltAuto hot and low pressures, with that manifold guage, yes.
@@briceitzaina1755 if they look close to good, you probably need to remove the blower motor, and blow out your evaporator. It's full of gunk.
Hey man, just wanted to say thanks for the much needed guidance.
AND PLEASE IF YOU COULD GET BACK TO ME, I AM TRYING TO CREATE THE "VACUUM" MYSELF BUT I CAN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT IT WAS THAT YOU HOOKED THE HOSE TO TO CREATE THAT VACUUM. SO PLEASE, WHEN YOU GET A CHANCE, I'D REALLY APPRECIATE IT. THANKS
Manifold vacuum happens when you run the vehicle at idle. If you run it, and take off a manifold vacuum line, you will feel it sucking. I think I used the hose going to the brake booster on that one. There was an extra small hose capped off at the booster. Can't remember for sure. If you have an air compressor, there is a little cheap red gizmo you can get from harbor freight for 15$ too.
@@RustBeltAuto thx again brother
I'm getting ready to change my condensor as well, is there a particular brand of condensor you recommend? did this one you put in last?
I got the cheapest one I could find. It's still there.
Love it! Shows removal great
What is the name of the small radiator on the right side
Transmission cooler?
When you vacume the unit the vacume causes the moisture to boil out of the system
On the vaccum topic running for 15minutes does remove more moisture than 5 seconds.
You are changing a physical condition inside the system when a vaccum is applied moisture among other low evaporation point solvents will change state to gas which at point, becomes available positive pressure in the system that your vaccum machine will pull combine that with the leaks from your shradder valve and potential wet or humid conditions near the leak it could possibly draw more moisture in as well!
So your logic is wrong but I still think in this case your meathod was best for the system given it had other leaks. But if all leaks are absent there is nothing to loose to run vac for a few more minutes
I already had this discussion about the moisture theory in vacuum with some know everything engineer in the comment section, and choose to go against the grain with the consensus, because I believe it is wrong. It doesn't evaporate. It boils (bubbles), because it is trying to freeze. That's why there is no globs of liquid water in space. It's frozen chunks, and when it gets hot from things like the sun, it evaporates off into liquid vapor. Water (moisture) in a line will not boil (bubble) in vacuum, if it is touching the hose, or pipe due to convection (the warm pipe is keeping it from freezing). What everyone is being taught, may not be the truth. Every vacuum pump, uses a pumping action like an engine, unless you are using something like a steady stream of pressure to create vacuum. Correct me if I'm wrong.
@@RustBeltAuto so here's the thing you don't seem to understand the difference between the state of liquids and gas on a atomic level no big deal science is my strong suit and I know you know what a liquid and gas is but there is not such thing as (both) and we have to understand why liquids will become a gas because it does not have to do 100% with temperature at all. It has to do with ambient pressure as well, and believe me its warn enough on earth to assist the water in your ac lines to "off gas im no youtube harvard chemistry student but I know what im talking about because chemistry is my hobby, I also have did chemical extractions of THC before and fiddled with more complex chemistry where chirality plays a role. there is no relation between the inside of your ac lines and the nice warm climate of the fact that those ac lines are within planet earth and not distant space where temperatures are near absolute zero !
It doesn't matter if its water or liquid nitrogen if there is a vacuum meaning absence of atoms next to water in the lines aka solvent residue because water is the most abundant and useful solvent on earth, anyways that solvent will off gas in a process known as "evaporation"
Nothing fancy jist microscopic beads of water that have mass and weight and can be calculated will (boil) out from the other molecules of whatevee gunk is inside and then your continuous vacuuming will evacuate the now gas water vapor.
There is no trick or bullshiting believing anything else is choosing to be ignorant and ignore chemistry.
Regardless your video is cool and your meathod works fine cause likes I said if you have a leak in the ac line then chances are a continuois vacume will pull more ambient water into the system than it can remove.
To grasp a even better understanding of chemistry which I think will do you well because you are smart I would watch some more lab experiments try Nile Reds channel on youtube he has some good videos where vacume rigs are used to speed up experiments that require evaporati
@@sprintcoding7358 differential pressure changes the boiling point of water. If the differential pressure is low enough, it constantly boils, and tries to get cooler, and if the temperature is not high enough, it does not evaporate. High differential pressure raises the boiling point. Temperature, and differential pressure has everything to do with rather or not water is vapor, liquid, or a solid. When you put vacuum in a system, you just got all your going to get out of it, unless you can close the system, and watch the pressure change at the same temperature. If the pressure does not change, nothing of any consequence is going to happen. Liquid water can boil in low temperatures, with low differential pressure, and not evaporate, until it gets cool enough, and the pressure is low enough (vacuum) to freeze. Water is unlike all other elements. It is also lighter as a solid, then a liquid. Which is something no other element does. If vacuum did such a good job (sucking) out all the water vapor like you, and every other educated person suggests, then there would be absolutely no need, or purpose for a dessicant in the system.
Before you get back to me with more of your smart comments, about how much you know, and how much I don't, perhaps you should fill an a/c system all the way full with water, put your magic vacuum on the system, and do a video about how all the water in the system will magically get sucked out, until there is nothing but your magic vacuum left.
Yup 300 psi in high side replace receiver dryer its dirty and plugged up.
It was over 85F degrees and over 80% humidity. That makes high highs. It is possible. Maybe I will replace it this spring.
You are wrong about keeping the vacuum only on for 5 seconds. Sometimes the moisture will just roll , and jt needs time to evaporate out with the suction pressure
I have read that before. That is what the consensus says, and everyone believes it. I'm from a different camp. I believe once you reach peak differential pressure, there is no more flux. It does not evaporate, and instead boils, because liquid water has a lower boiling point, it gets cooler, and is trying to freeze.
@@RustBeltAuto wow thanks for the in depth comment! I will keep that in mind!
@@matthewabbott343 you are not going to hear about that from anyone else. I figured it out myself.
“DO THE DUMP” 💩 🤣🤣🤣🍻
say "beater" one more fucking time......
Wow!
20:44 Sounds like a T shirt to me.
Schrader valves were never intended to hold a vacuum ever was never invented the whole vacuum ever
Donald Rizzo okay. Vacuum sucks!
Lol u know I liked the video I wish u wouldn’t talk bout a vacuum. The longer u pull a vacuum the more moisture. U don’t want any moisture in the ac system. I pulled a auto ac down to 74 microns. Plus pulling a vacuum is also a good way to tell if u have a leak, old refrigerant trapped in the oil, or still have moisture in the system.
If you pull vacuum in a sealed system, and hold it there, moisture has no place to go. Science states that It boils. It cannot boil out if It has no place else to go. It is good to see if it leaks. The differential pressure can suck some out with air, and make molecules bigger. The consensus that I have been taught to know I see as flawed. Just like refrigerant burning up the ozone layer. Kinda tough for it to get up there when it is heavier than air don't you think? More likely to believe all those rockets getting shot up into space with burning fuel has more to do with it.
Oh lord disaster gonna happen
Yo!
This is the worst video I've ever watched. He knows nothing about the science of refrigerant & temperature/pressure realtionships. No talk of subcooling or superheating. The high pressure should never go above 300 @ 85 degrees w/humidity. 85 degrees with humidity should be around 35 to 45 degrees on the low side & the high side about 250 to 275. Good Lord dude....search google!
300psi @ 90 degrees is pretty normal for a good compressor. Depending on the vehicle, some go higher. I might replace my accumulator just to see what happens.
@@RustBeltAuto in a perfect world... it would (& should) be around 250-275. 300 psi could indicate contaminant like air or moisture (or too much oil in the system). High head pressure can be becuase of too much humitdity as well.
@@hesneyk1 you could be right. If this was a perfect world, none of us would be here. I would only second guess myself if the system was not cold enough. That was the time of the year when everyone and their mothers brother was complaining about ac not being cold enough.