1999-2014 Chevy Silverado AC compressor, accumulator replacement
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- Опубліковано 17 тра 2019
- With fixed orifice tube, Evacuation, and recharge. Some 2014+ models have a different style compressor. This is the same compressor for all 4.3L, 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L Cadillac Escalade, Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Sierra, and Yukon. 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14. receiver dryer.
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Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Rust Belt Auto assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this video at your own risk. Rust Belt Auto recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Rust Belt Auto, No information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. - Авто та транспорт
Thanks. This is the first video that properly explained the PAG oil. The ACDelco replacement was supposed to come filled already, nadda!
This is the best Iv seen so far. Vary good thank you .
This is very good.. i appreciate you taking time out your day to do this for us.. 👍👍
I appreciate being appreciated. Thanks for watching!
That was a damn good video on how to do this repair. Best one I've seen so far.
Excellent job of explaining the process, very knowledgeable and experienced professional thanks man
surely!
Curious that the Silverado has a wire running right by the serpentine belt as does my Chevy 99 Malibu. A metal deflector, that keeps the wire plug away from the serpentine belt, got bent and prevented installation of the compressor. In daylight I was able to bend it out of the way. I taped the bolts to the compressor, put in the spacer, then crawled out from under the car to go topside and reach down with both hands one on each Bolt to keep them from sliding out and dropping the spacer. In good day light I could see the mounting holes from above. I particularly liked your quick review of The Harbor Freight Pittsburgh vacuum pump that hooks up to the air compressor which I bought with instructions clear as mud. I have the same color hoses on the AC manifold Gage. And was able to figure out from your video how to hook up the vacuum pump. Also found your video about removing orifice tube very helpful. I grabbed onto it with needle-nose pliers and gave a Twist like you suggested and it came right out. Almost nobody else has showed how to replace the accumulator receiver drier. Mine was very similar to the Silverado. I like how you snag the electrical connector with the little hook and pick tool. I used the pick tool to replace the O-rings.
Holly shit. Chevy really didn't want that to go anywhere. Go job explaining every step.
Thanks for the helpful videos.
Very helpful, just what I needed to know!!!
Great video! Thank you for the help!
This is the best of all the best. Thanks.
That was a great help! Thanks!
Thanks Brother gonna go do it now on my truck👍
Thanks for the video. Very helpful.🙂
Oh my gawd! Thank you Jesus for posting this video. I was lost but now I'm found. That dang ac switch removal!!!!
Jesus doesn't fix cars.
Great video. AC is nice to have in the summer months for sure. My little Toyota pickup doesn't have it which sort of sucks... Oh well, just have to bring along more "road pop" thanks for the video!
Very well done! Helped me so much. Thank you for posting it.
Welcome!
thanks my friend
Nice video
thanks!
Excellent video!!
Could you please help me to know the part number of the air conditioning compressor and condenser Hose assembly?
It's because I got the same compressor that you installed in your video, but my suburban has the OEM parts and the hose assembly does not fit in the new compressor
Thanks in advance!!
I have found it beneficial to blow some low pressure air through the lines to ensure there are no residual metal filings left in the system. You don't want to put metal filings right back into your new compressor. Just be mindful not to over pressurize your condenser.
Blowing air in the system just puts water in it from the ambient air and will need a decent vacuum pump to remove it. The only way to get a contaminated system clean is to flush it with the proper product and once back together Vac it down to 29 inches. Actual atmosphere is 29.92, but most pumps cannot get that low. When you vacuum water, it boils, turns to vapor and is evacuated out of the system. Water or moisture is AC's number one enemy.
@@danlemke6407 Try using a desiccant filter on your air supply and of course pull vacuum to evaporate any water in the system. No water or metal shards is the best option I have found.
Nah this is a terrible idea
So this 17:18 is when you charge the coolant then recheck with the gauge?
Buy a real vacuum pump. The reason you vac it down is to remove moisture, which will shorten the lifetime of the system. Water changes state at about 29 inches of vacuum, it will then turn to a vapor (pressure) and be pumped out of the system. For those of you who think blowing compressed air in the system is a good idea, you better have a good vacuum pump, as you just contaminated the system. If you just remove and replace these two items within a few hours, not much air will get in and the vacuum you did with the HF gizmo really didn't do anything, you just didn't contaminate the system. The receiver/dryer will only absorb so much, but it is why some get away without vacuuming or not doing it with a proper pump. The dryer is simply desiccant that absorbs moisture and when you leave it open long, it will draw in outside moisture. Also, a proper vacuum pump will release any moisture from the dryer. If you are going to blow out a system, only use dry nitrogen, just be careful of the pressure. I hate to carp on your video, as I liked it very much and think it is the best one I have seen changing this compressor out. Just get a decent vacuum pump, it is well worth it if you are going to service AC systems.
A good vacuum pump is a good idea. Someday, I might get one. Being poor, and building a good system is a work in progress. Before that cheap pump existed, I used engine vacuum, and a vacuum guage.
I know what the consensus is, about how moisture gets sucked out of a system from evaporation, but believe some of the science behind what H2O does in low temperature, with low differential pressure (vacuum) in a sealed system is not entirely correct. Put all the science of water, and evaporation aside, and think of it this way anyways. If you vacuum a system, close it off, or leave it open, and the differential pressure stays the same, no matter how much time you spend with it, nothing else is going to come out of it.
I do agree, blowing out lines with a dirty moisture filled air compressor is not a great idea either.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Best one on here!
My truck has the sensor on the back of conpressor but doesnt have the other end to plug in!?!? What is the deal with that?
@@youjustdontgetit8117 I don't know.
Hope the condenser doesn't have any debris in it after the compressor failure. Nice video
It's okay. I think? Thanks!
I just replaced a compressor on a 2000 Tahoe and had to drop the heater hoses just to get the compressor out !
This one basically fell out !
What did you use to get the bottom bolts out
What are the two sensors called? One on the back of the compressor and the accumulator/drier? Is it low side and high side sensors?
If my memory serves me, high pressure switch is on the compressor. The other should be low.
I have pressure in my system, I troubleshooted to the clutch not working. Can I just replace the clutch while the compressor is mounted? Mine looks like the one you took out. I haven't seen a video on that specific compressor.
Thank you! 🙂
You probably can. I have not done one on that particular vehicle yet.
Good video i did everything just like you did , and now my ac is freezing cold 38 F ,is that good 🤔
I don't believe you.
My 99 Chevy Malibu 3.1 l V6 M engine has AC compressor at the bottom just above the frame. 3 bolts loosened with a Lowe's Kobalt 3/8 breaker bar 12 in Long -could not get a swivel extension with a socket on the three bolts to bust them loose. I liked your video till you fast-forwarded through the mounting of the new compressor. Mickey in Orlando 4 feet tall lifted the vehicle and had two hands on the two top bolts to install it. No lift I can only work with one hand. The two top bolts keep falling out. There is a spacer between the compressor and the engine more than an inch deep. That keeps falling down when top bolts slide out. I can't very well wire the contraption or tape it very well. What would happen if I used a lock washer? Say the lock washer looks like a shark bite fitting so you can keep tightening but the bolts don't slide out.
What about rubber O-rings?
Great video👍now if the system takes 8oz and u put 8oz would that be too much? The condenser and the rest of the system still has oil in so it wasn't completely empty of oil. I was taught that too much oil could take up space of refrigerant leaving u with less cold air. Cool video tho😎
Correct. There might be an extra 3 ounces in the condenser, however since this compressor was bone dry, and locked up, along with the FOT being clean, and bone dry, figured someone probably had been filling this with little cans, and no oil in the past. Probably should have mentioned that. Extra 3 oz in my opinion, shouldn"t hurt. It's much worse to have not enough. His A/c is working still, and nice and cold.
@@RustBeltAuto sounds good to me😁
The sensor on 6:15 you removed , what is it called ? Or you have a part #. Im having a hard time locating that sensor .
High pressure switch? Some are located somewhere else, if it is not on your original part.
Which side did you put the extra 2 oz of oil in the accumulator🤔
It doesn't matter.
What's that green stuff you put in the compressor?
It is compressor oil with dye.
Flushed my system. But when you put oil in the brand new compressor, do we have to buy a new accumulator? I heard that oil never leaves the accumulator, i'm just afraid to overfill on oil capacity if i put the remaining 3oz into mine. Although my total capacity is under 6 oz.
With a new compressor you need a new condenser if you had a compressor lock up, but replacement not required with a leaky compressor (like the Hx6 compressor "belly leaks"). You should always replace the accumulator. Oil does leave the accumulator thru a small hole in the bottom of the U tube inside the accumulator. Best thing is flush everything, replace accumulator, and drain the shipping or pag oil the compressor comes with an get an 8oz bottle of PAG (if that's your capacity) and put in correct capacity. So you know exactly how much oil is going in.
@@BearHomeOwnerDIY definitely did that. Just don’t have enough for the accumulator. My whole system is cleared out still. I guess I’ll do the accumulator next paycheck and the vaccuum and recharge
Are all of the compressor bolts the same length or is one shorter then the other 3?? If so which is shorter???? I’m stumped
If you are confused, just stuck them in the holes, without threading them, and they should all be the same distance from the compressor. Usually about 6 threads deep minimum.
Was the truck running while you had the vacuum on it?
Nope. Wouldn't matter anyways. The compressor will not turn on unless there is pressure in the system.
What's the purpose of the switch on back of compressor (high pressure switch)and do I need it for compressor to work properly thanks
Yes
That is a binary switch. It should have been replaced with a new one.
@@gregk.6723 Why?
@@RustBeltAuto Since these fail at a high rate. Not using a new one, is like putting a clean pair of shorts after you shit yourself.
Can you link the product you used from harbor freight?
Air Vacuum Pump With R134A And R12 Connectors
This thing?
If I replace the compressor do I have to replace the accumulator?
The book says you do.
Is the 1999 ac compressor different from a 2000 and up??
There are a few different ones for these trucks.
Mechanic note: Play 2X speed to get your information
I see you used the green dye is that also oil
It's is the oil. The dye is added to find future leaks.
Just flop the belt out the way. Lol well said.
When the compressor went out then the belt needed replaced with a new one. Don't want to use a belt that had a ton of friction like that when the compressor seized up - replace the belt
Can you change switch back while still on truck
I don't understand.
Wouldn't the vacuum boil the oil out?
My sources say no.
My sources say no.
Do you absolutely need the insulation on the accumulator? Mine shredded to pieces.
AAAAHHH!?!?!?
It just keeps it a little cooler.
Thank you for the reply! I subscribed! So I should be okay to run it like that for a tiny while until I buy a replacement insulation??
@@Angel-wf6jh if you check the temperature of your vents, you may notice that it is a little cooler with the thing, maybe. The dryer is actually on the hot side before the fixed orface tube. For that reason, you may not notice a difference at all.
Rust Belt Auto I truly hope I’m not a bother. Temperatures are getting very hot and I’ve been struggling with a few things and trying to save money. My new problem is the ac compressor wont engage when I bridge the plug that goes in the low pressure switch on my 99 Sierra 1500. I bought a new compressor and accumulator. I believe it to be an electric issue. Can the ac module cause that? And can low Freon pressure cause that? I wouldn’t think so since I think it’s an electric issue i believe bringing it directly like I am would make the clutch do something. Any ideas would be so appreciated. I went to an auto electric and the diagnostic alone would be 160. Any help please. I have gotten my friends to subscribe your other videos are great and very helpful!
And my car is 2005 with 250000 miles , and my ac is freezing cold. 38F 🙂
Would the compressor ingage if that sensor is not put on
If your car came with one, you need it.
So it needs that sensor in the back
Did you test it?
@@RustBeltAuto yes but it’s not working so that means I gotta take it off my old compressor
@@bryancazarin5039 i think that's a high pressure limit switch. You need that.
What if your compressor doesn't have the switch for the back but I got one that has one on the back can I remove it and put the cap with the snap ring on and take the switch off would that be ok? Any information would very much be appreciated thank you
Just out of curiosity ... how much would a job like this cost. I have a 2005 Tahoe and a 2002 Suburban and neither of them has a working air conditioning system. I'm afraid to take it to a shop to get either one fixed. And even though I'm mechanically inclined I don't have all the A/C tools to attempt this myself, so I would definitely need it done for me. What do you charge?
I don't know.
@ hi! Did u gt it fix, them chavy tahoes
1999 is not the same compressor! And it is not the same to replace it!
5:00
By peg to put
Pag?
are your ears cold ?
It's Minnesota, so only 9 months out of the year.
@@RustBeltAuto It's only cold for 9 months, and all the rest is ALL summer ? Nice . . ...
@@gregk.6723 lol
This is not the same for 2014+ completely different. 2014+ doesn't have a orfice tube either. You should definitely change the title of your video for search purposes
2014 is a changeover year. Some did use it. I listed it for later model years. It it was for early model years, I would have listed it as such. I did add that fact in my description. Thanks!