The quality of this information and the delivery just keeps getting better. You’re doing the 996 community a great service by putting these videos out.
@@andrewshidler221 It is very interesting seeing how it all works and the different things you need to watch for, it’s a whole new world of terms and history. If it helps you keep your car on the road with low stress and low bills, we are all happy 🙌
Having them on the wrong way is indeed a big problem! Back again to comment on your videos because I'm learning so much! But, the tiny holes on one of the cam-pads are where oil escapes the piston and the whole system and lubricates the chain. Without them in the right place the parts will wear unevenly. Good catch by you on the re-watch when you were looking at the previous "mechanic's" work. Very nice!
Thank you Kyle, I appreciate the education. I was wondering why only one of them had a seal and holes in it. Prior to having them in my hands I had assumed that the upper and lower were identical. Live and learn... Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage with the debate around which way they go back on. Under the cam pads is there a spot where the oil comes out to lubricate the pad. Surely that will guide you as to which way they go back on. I need to watch again now
I think , It’s a brilliant Occasion for you to do more of these Videos , you‘re well bespoken the Clips are very entertaining , you have the Guts to do the Job and It’s Engineering on the Spot , what more can a Person ask for !! Just Go on , you‘re the best Greetings from the Netherlands
This is the best vid specific to the cam chain solenoids, actuators and pads. You make it look easy. No doubt the bank 2 pads mixed up couldn't be a good thing and were likely the cause of failure. From what I've read regarding age and mileage I'll be doing this job in a couple years.
Hello DSC800, A subscriber mentioned that those two holes on the lower are designed to control the flow of oil out of piston and that the green oring is to prevent the oil from going anywhere but out those holes. The jury is still out on exactly how that would lead to their early demise, it’s probably not good though 🤣😂. I feel someone should set up a “cam pads ‘r us” business and just churn through all the Porsche’s in their area for some bargain price. If someone was doing this on a regular basis they could make the price less painful (maybe) Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage I agree with the other commenters that those holes let the oil out which lubricates the chain. They having been put in the wrong way around meant no lubrication between pad and chain leading to accelerated and heavy wear that ultimately lead to the chain jumping two teeth (or am I mixing up your observation wrt 2 teeth jumped on bank1 and the pads swapped on bank2?). Anyway, to my understanding this is proof that no gear slipped on the IMS so no need to pin it. Also your observation early on when finding TDC that only one bank was misaligned (soot inside the combustion Chambers onjust one bank) would have meant that the gear that drives the exhaust cam would have had slipped not the gear that's been driven by the crank which is more susceptible to slipping apparently. I would put back the pistons as they are together with new rings if the bores check out in spec. Except the one that has the little spot where it flaked off. Anything other than ferostan (or ferroprint also by Mahle) combined with locasil is not proven nearly as extensive as ferostan/locasil.
@@bernardmclake3898 I agree but it's probably a hard decision at this point, to re-sleeve or not. It would save a lot of money to put it back together but then who wants to do all the same work again if it starts to score in 5 or 10k miles. There is a Hartech document that describes a locasil v.1 and a v.2 with the v.1 ending around the mid-2001 model year. V.2 was cheaper/faster. He backs it up with magnified images of each type (spoiler alert - v.1 is better with a finer grain that is easier on the skirts and less likely to flake). Also, it would have been the intake gear that slipped two teeth not the exhaust as this is driven direct by chain from the IMS.
Brilliant! As usual. Eight years ago, I bought my first Porsche, a 2001 Boxster S. I new that the guide rails were worn when I bought it (showed up in the PPI). I had no idea what that meant so that first winter in MY tiny garage, I dropped the engine and dove in! What the fuck did I know: hey it's not rocket science, right? The Bentley's and the internet were highly useful in keeping me from despair. I guess we are kindred spirits Finn, know no fear, hey, what's the worst that could happen? Excellent video, and very entertaining!
That’s a good PPI, I’m impressed 🤩. Those little buggers were intimidating until they were in pieces. Discovering that they work on oil pressure was a fun brain twist, Porsche engineering! Wishing you an awesome weekend 🙌
Excellent video. You've found the problem in your motor. Are the cam actuators identical? Or are they designed to have the pads on the alternating sides? I'm guessing that the pad with the o-ring, is the one that 'bleeds' oil from the pressure being passed through it. The o-ring is to stop the oil leaking out, and the 2 small holes are drain holes. That's how it maintains correct oil pressure perhaps. Need to make sure that the pad with the o-ring is installed on the side of the actuator that has the oil hole. Of course, I have not built one of these before, so learning from what I see here too. Thanks for the videos.
Hello Michael, you hit the nail on the head. The answer is making sure the plastic guide with the holes is on the side of the actuator with the drain hole. I will be revisiting that conundrum when I’m putting the little buggers back in. Everyone chipping in really helped figure it out. Thank you 🙏
9:00 - ouch, you use your multimeter in a wrong way your black test lead should always stays in a COM port and the red one you can use in either in the right port to check the voltage, continuity, resistance etc... and to check amperage use the left one which says - 10A
Hello Mykola, I agree the cables where backwards, the reading ended up being in the minus scale but reading exacty the same as it would have. Not really an issue?
OMG! Your videos are awesome. Thanks a lot for your content. Getting scared of my 996 3.4. But perhaps one day I will watch your videos again when my engine needs to be overhauled
You did a splendid job on those. Is possible to change those pads with the engine still on the car, albeit not much fun (ask me how I know), but it was wise to take it out and do a proper once over everything. You'll definitely get invaluable knowledge on the inner workings of your machine. Plain white coffee filters are an alternative to Kimtech wipes. They're cheaper, lint-free, and a little bit more robust for cleaning. One could use shop towels as well but, in my experience, they kind of 'melt' in the presence of brake cleaner or acetone while coffee filters don't. Great job and looking forward to the next videos!
Great new video !!! Thank you for doing this , I wonder how much better the new material will be on the pads , I think these days there better plastics. I wonder if somebody like LN engineering have better parts . Keep the good work , so thankful of learning from your experience!!
Hello Alan, LNE do have a bullet proof Billet IMS tensioner arm/pad, but nothing for the Cams. I would love to know more about the difference in materials between new and old cam pads, if I find out more I will put it in a future video. Hopefully this video will help people spend less time stressing and more time driving. Thank you for watching :)
This is great! I have a 3.4 996.1 that I'm getting ready to do all this on. Throwing -9.34 on bank 1 cam deviation per durametric. Car runs great but obviously that's out of spec, and I expect it to be at 132k miles with the engine never having been removed from the car
The 3.4 996 is growing on me, I hope you are enjoying yours. My understanding is any deviation over 6 is pretty telling. It's important to mention that you can replace your cam guides with the engine in the car. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage I love the 3.4 996... But I found an extremely cheap 996 Turbo that I purchased and am fixing up! So sadly I'm pushing the 3.4 on to the next buyer. I thought about doing the job with the engine in the car, but I figured it would be easier with it out and allow me to inspect and replace vacuum lines and what not on top of the engine. AoS, etc.
So now that you’ve torn the entire engine down. Can these vario cam pads be replaced with the engine in the car. I’ve got 150,000 miles on my daily driver and think I might want to have a look. Thank you for these videos.
Hello Mike, From what i have been told it IS possible to replace them in the car. Good Luck with your project, I am happy to answer questions when your in the thick of it.Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Now I have a question... Don't you have to fill this variocam cylinders with motor oil, so on the first start of the car the chain don't jump a tooth due a slack in the system for lack of oil? Similar when you preload a old air cooled 911 carrera chain tensioner with oil And if that is true and I'm not mistaken, how do we do that?
Hello Ricardo! The large spring preloads the system hence the need to compress it with the special tool. If you filled the system it would just leak out again by the time the engine was reassembled, it needs oil pressure to work. Thank you for watching. 🤘😎
Agree! they're specialized wipes for science and stuff. Shop towels melt when used with brake cleaner or acetone (ask me how I found out lol). I guess because of their composition or the way they're made. I'll suggest you to try white coffee filters. They are lint-free too and around $2 for a pack of 200+.
Hello Yogi,l That particular box came from Pelican Parts. I got those particular blue shop towels because of there lint free claims, the first time I used one on the crankshaft it left lint all over the place, that was the reason I bought the KIM Wipes. Another subscriber recommended coffee filters 🤩. I hope your Porsche is coming along nicely 🖖
Finn, I had to watch this one again to get a better perspective on the variocam set up. It is more than a bit unsettling that your car died because of the plastic tensioner ramps. A selfish question here...do you know if Porsche addressed this issue and improved the ramps in subsequent years? Or was your failure just because the ramps were installed in the wrong position? I have an '06 997 and really want to believe that these variocam ramps will not become an issue. I have also learned that the IMS is not an issue in my engine, and I think that bore scoring will not be an issue given how I drive the car. This issue that you are having (had) with your engine is the one thing that I am uncertain about. Any thoughts? Thanks, buddy!
Hello Tom, I looked up some stuff on your car. You should have the larger single row ims bearing in 2006, not known for significant issues. Your car has an updated vario cam, more like the vario cam plus. I looked up chain guides for your car on pelican parts, they don’t seem to have any?? I think your car has a different system altogether. I know on the vario cam cars like mine that a durametric check of “Cam Deviations” while the engine is hot will give you an insight into the state of the little plastic timing chain guides. Anything over 5 degrees could be cause for concern. Not a decisive answer I’m afraid. but hopefully that gives you something to go on. 🤓
@@ManinaGarage Thanks a lot for this! Sorry to cause you extra work - it never even occurred to me to check out things with the parts suppliers to see what products are offered as replacements. That can certainly help build a better picture of what I have, exactly. I appreciate your help!
Before I forget , While I was busy with my IMS bearing and my RMS I also serviced My Alternator , startermotor and put a new air/ oil separater ( that’s the reason your car smoked so heavily ) Next move is to put in an IPD plenum which improves Performance , good luck with the Progress on your Engine !!!
@@ManinaGarage No a Friend of mine has a Bosch Service Station and he did. it together with the startermotor . I changed my flywheel back to It‘s Original Status again . Today I‘m going to work on my second car , which is a 83 SC !!
Great video....thanks! This is the exactly problem I just started having on my 2001 boxster base. At idle it's rough and smooth throughout the rev range. It's throwing code P1325 which from researching is directing me to the vario cam solenoid bank 2
@@ShamileII I’m glad it helped you 🙌 Check out Porsche Engine Gurus on Facebook, they have started dismantling the solenoid to replace the O-rings, they have photos on their facebook m.facebook.com/groups/591859944843493/?ref=share&mibextid=S66gvF Thank you for watching! 🙌😎
Hello Valhalla, That is a really good question, I am not sure what I'm going to do with the cylinder heads yet, presumably the valves need to come out and get cleaned. Polishing and porting the heads sounds like something to look into at that stage. Thank you for the heads up. Have a great day in the north country!
@@ManinaGarage Send them to Hoffman Automotive (newsite.hamheads.com). He's the most renowned M96 head expert around. If there's any cracks, he'll find them and repair, plus he stress relieves. He can port polish and install new valve guide as well.
if i'm understanding it correctly, one pad has an 0-ring on it and the other one doesn't, if so, i can't imagine how it could NOT create a fatal problem if they were switched.
The word on the street is they were the correct way around, they were just old. When I made this video I knew less than I know now 🤪 Worn variocam pads were the reason this engine died. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
I think this will be a good build. Don’t want to say too much but that cloth you used under the crank for cleaning looked remarkably like the Shroud of Turin. Just saying …
Loving these videos! Bought a 996 a couple years ago, so really enjoying seeing how these engines work. Now for a question for somebody that has experience with these cars - I was shocked to hear the chain had jumped 2 teeth. I would expect that to cause much more trouble than just a rough running engine. How many degrees does 2 teeth equate to, and how close was this engine to serious damage?
I don't have much experience with these engines but I believe the sprockets have 28 teeth, so 2 teeth off would be ~25 degrees (360/28 x 2). The Variocam is either on or off, advancing the intake timing 25 degrees when on. Since the exhaust sprocket is driven by the IMS chain it is not affected but the intake timing is retarded by the 25 degrees when Variocam is off and maybe this is just enough to cause the valve to contact the piston (seen in the earlier vid). ???
@@ManinaGarage The M96 is an interference engine, correct? Again, I'm surprised this didn't cause valve/piston damage, but I'm just guessing because I don't know the specifics of these motors.
Just FYI the pads on bank 4-6 are supposed to be the opposite to bank 1-3, so you should put it back to how you found it on disassembly 😉 (you did bank 1-3 correctly so that's fine)
Hello Duncan, I have had half a dozen people tell me what your saying and at least as many tell me the opposite 🤯 . That aspect of the engine is covered in the Bentley Manual, it says that the lower (inner) Timing Guide Rail is always the one with the oil drain holes and the green O-ring. Throw me a bone here on why there is so much conflicting advice on this particular subject?? I really appreciate the comment, Thank you for watching 🤘 😎
If you look at the metal plates the pads clip on to, one of them has a small oil hole in the centre. The pad with the holes also has an o-ring designed to seal around this oil hole, so the oil sprays through the two holes on the pad to lubricate the chain and doesn't leak away. These are on opposite sides on each bank, and it seems the manuals are describing bank 1-3 only. At least that's how I think it works! 😅
I have a question, will you be replacing the oil cooler in the car? I've read on some forums guys swapped out their stock cooler with a 997 one which gave a 15 percent cooler rate. The part number is 997.107.025.92 once I will tackle my 996 I don't want to go back in and do it right
Hello Mahmood, I had not heard of a benefit from replacing the 996 cooler with one from a 997, what forum was that on? I am replacing the oil returns with a set from a 997, the oil cooler thing sounds interesting..... Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Don't take your Porsche to a Porsche Dealership. I've owned many BMW's and Porsches. I take mine to Classic Design in Athens, Ga. Rich Dean is the BEST mechanic on Porsches & German / All Cars in the Southeastern USA. He can fabricate anything you need and bring to LIFE anything you want. I've seen him do it! BTW, Chip Ganassi ships his cars from the west coast so Rich can work on them. Just saying.. Best, Honest Car Guy I have ever known. NO BODY touches my cars! Only Rich Dean. And, BTW, he is a Porsche Race Car builder/ Driver and has many 1/st Place Trophy's on his Desk. I see them, as I just drop by to see all the wonderful projects he has going on!
World order has been restored... Those small dots are oil channels right ? So no wonder that side was completely destroyed due lack of lubrication if they those dots are holes (hard to decipher from the video). Brutal how such a mistake can end up costing...
@@donesper2070 Hello Don, what I feel happened is that the cam pad service was done by an independent at some time with the engine in the car and they put the pads in backwards. More evidence may come up, that’s what I think right now. I hope you are having a great Saturday!
@@ManinaGarage Yes, as always, the used engine in my 911 whent through 2 others before it ended up in mine, the last had an unfortunate meating with a 🦌 on the road
Good question Brandon, I expected that some contact would have occurred. Now that it’s all back together I can say that there was no contact between valve and piston. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@brandonrussell8306 Awesome 🙌 Welcome aboard Brandon 🫡. I’m literally in the car right now getting ready to shoot a red line acceleration onto the highway shot, traffic allowing 😅
Find out what happens next CLICK HERE ua-cam.com/video/3SxI7iRD-rU/v-deo.html
Yes Please!
The quality of this information and the delivery just keeps getting better. You’re doing the 996 community a great service by putting these videos out.
Hello Peter, I really appreciate you taking the time to tell me that! Thank you for watching 🤘😎
This is the best 996 engine build series period on UA-cam. Well done.
Wow! Thank you for taking the time to tell me that Andrew! I hope your section of planet earth is utterly kick ass today 🙌. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage thank you. I have a 1999 C2 enjoying this series on the motor.
@@andrewshidler221 It is very interesting seeing how it all works and the different things you need to watch for, it’s a whole new world of terms and history. If it helps you keep your car on the road with low stress and low bills, we are all happy 🙌
Having them on the wrong way is indeed a big problem! Back again to comment on your videos because I'm learning so much! But, the tiny holes on one of the cam-pads are where oil escapes the piston and the whole system and lubricates the chain. Without them in the right place the parts will wear unevenly. Good catch by you on the re-watch when you were looking at the previous "mechanic's" work. Very nice!
Thank you Kyle, I appreciate the education. I was wondering why only one of them had a seal and holes in it. Prior to having them in my hands I had assumed that the upper and lower were identical. Live and learn... Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage with the debate around which way they go back on. Under the cam pads is there a spot where the oil comes out to lubricate the pad. Surely that will guide you as to which way they go back on. I need to watch again now
I think , It’s a brilliant Occasion for you to do more of these Videos , you‘re well bespoken the Clips are very entertaining , you have the Guts to do the Job and It’s Engineering on the Spot , what more can a Person ask for !!
Just Go on , you‘re the best
Greetings from the Netherlands
Happy Saturday Arnold 🙌 Ik hou van nederland!
This is the best vid specific to the cam chain solenoids, actuators and pads. You make it look easy. No doubt the bank 2 pads mixed up couldn't be a good thing and were likely the cause of failure. From what I've read regarding age and mileage I'll be doing this job in a couple years.
Hello DSC800,
A subscriber mentioned that those two holes on the lower are designed to control the flow of oil out of piston and that the green oring is to prevent the oil from going anywhere but out those holes. The jury is still out on exactly how that would lead to their early demise, it’s probably not good though 🤣😂. I feel someone should set up a “cam pads ‘r us” business and just churn through all the Porsche’s in their area for some bargain price. If someone was doing this on a regular basis they could make the price less painful (maybe) Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage I agree with the other commenters that those holes let the oil out which lubricates the chain. They having been put in the wrong way around meant no lubrication between pad and chain leading to accelerated and heavy wear that ultimately lead to the chain jumping two teeth (or am I mixing up your observation wrt 2 teeth jumped on bank1 and the pads swapped on bank2?).
Anyway, to my understanding this is proof that no gear slipped on the IMS so no need to pin it.
Also your observation early on when finding TDC that only one bank was misaligned (soot inside the combustion Chambers onjust one bank) would have meant that the gear that drives the exhaust cam would have had slipped not the gear that's been driven by the crank which is more susceptible to slipping apparently.
I would put back the pistons as they are together with new rings if the bores check out in spec. Except the one that has the little spot where it flaked off. Anything other than ferostan (or ferroprint also by Mahle) combined with locasil is not proven nearly as extensive as ferostan/locasil.
@@bernardmclake3898 I agree but it's probably a hard decision at this point, to re-sleeve or not. It would save a lot of money to put it back together but then who wants to do all the same work again if it starts to score in 5 or 10k miles.
There is a Hartech document that describes a locasil v.1 and a v.2 with the v.1 ending around the mid-2001 model year. V.2 was cheaper/faster. He backs it up with magnified images of each type (spoiler alert - v.1 is better with a finer grain that is easier on the skirts and less likely to flake).
Also, it would have been the intake gear that slipped two teeth not the exhaust as this is driven direct by chain from the IMS.
Brilliant! As usual. Eight years ago, I bought my first Porsche, a 2001 Boxster S. I new that the guide rails were worn when I bought it (showed up in the PPI). I had no idea what that meant so that first winter in MY tiny garage, I dropped the engine and dove in! What the fuck did I know: hey it's not rocket science, right? The Bentley's and the internet were highly useful in keeping me from despair. I guess we are kindred spirits Finn, know no fear, hey, what's the worst that could happen? Excellent video, and very entertaining!
That’s a good PPI, I’m impressed 🤩. Those little buggers were intimidating until they were in pieces. Discovering that they work on oil pressure was a fun brain twist, Porsche engineering! Wishing you an awesome weekend 🙌
Loved the video! Very well documented and comments on point! Congrats!
@@b87clr Thank you for watching! 🤘😎
Nice one Finn. Enjoying watchinh these!
Fantastic to have you along for the Journey! Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Excellent video. You've found the problem in your motor. Are the cam actuators identical? Or are they designed to have the pads on the alternating sides? I'm guessing that the pad with the o-ring, is the one that 'bleeds' oil from the pressure being passed through it. The o-ring is to stop the oil leaking out, and the 2 small holes are drain holes. That's how it maintains correct oil pressure perhaps. Need to make sure that the pad with the o-ring is installed on the side of the actuator that has the oil hole. Of course, I have not built one of these before, so learning from what I see here too. Thanks for the videos.
Hello Michael, you hit the nail on the head. The answer is making sure the plastic guide with the holes is on the side of the actuator with the drain hole. I will be revisiting that conundrum when I’m putting the little buggers back in. Everyone chipping in really helped figure it out. Thank you 🙏
9:00 - ouch, you use your multimeter in a wrong way
your black test lead should always stays in a COM port and the red one you can use in either in the right port to check the voltage, continuity, resistance etc... and to check amperage use the left one which says - 10A
Hello Mykola, I agree the cables where backwards, the reading ended up being in the minus scale but reading exacty the same as it would have. Not really an issue?
Great video. Now I finally know what a variocam does and I have the Durametric tool to test them
Thank you for watching Martin!
OMG! Your videos are awesome. Thanks a lot for your content. Getting scared of my 996 3.4. But perhaps one day I will watch your videos again when my engine needs to be overhauled
Thank you Palatina works, knowledge is a great cure for fear 🤓. Wishing you an awesome weekend 🙌
My weekend can’t start until these videos come out any more!
Loving your work (As always!)
Awesome to hear from you Daron, I hope your weekend was kickass!
Other than running rough, did you get a cel light for cam deviation? What was your cam dev # prior to tearing down the engine?
What’s the orange thing with the battery and button called? Trying to test my variocams too lol. Thanks
Hello Alex, it’s from an Estes rocket launch pad 🤓 amzn.to/36kUctK Good luck 🍀 Thank you for watching🤘😎
You did a splendid job on those. Is possible to change those pads with the engine still on the car, albeit not much fun (ask me how I know), but it was wise to take it out and do a proper once over everything. You'll definitely get invaluable knowledge on the inner workings of your machine. Plain white coffee filters are an alternative to Kimtech wipes. They're cheaper, lint-free, and a little bit more robust for cleaning. One could use shop towels as well but, in my experience, they kind of 'melt' in the presence of brake cleaner or acetone while coffee filters don't. Great job and looking forward to the next videos!
Coffee Filters?? BRILLIANT!! 🙌 Thank you Fred.
This series is Great!
I really appreciate you taking the time to comment 🙌 Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Great new video !!! Thank you for doing this , I wonder how much better the new material will be on the pads , I think these days there better plastics. I wonder if somebody like LN engineering have better parts . Keep the good work , so thankful of learning from your experience!!
Hello Alan, LNE do have a bullet proof Billet IMS tensioner arm/pad, but nothing for the Cams. I would love to know more about the difference in materials between new and old cam pads, if I find out more I will put it in a future video. Hopefully this video will help people spend less time stressing and more time driving. Thank you for watching :)
Excellent thumb work Sir!
I wish it was all thumb work, i would be driving it by now! Happy Saturday buddy!
@@ManinaGarage cheers matey. Been a lovely day here in blighty :) the beach ⛱ looks lovely with you!
Yes! Looking forward to watching this tonight!
I hope you are having a great weekend dude!
My best mechanical teacher!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 thanks
Thank you Enric 🙌
This is great! I have a 3.4 996.1 that I'm getting ready to do all this on. Throwing -9.34 on bank 1 cam deviation per durametric. Car runs great but obviously that's out of spec, and I expect it to be at 132k miles with the engine never having been removed from the car
The 3.4 996 is growing on me, I hope you are enjoying yours. My understanding is any deviation over 6 is pretty telling. It's important to mention that you can replace your cam guides with the engine in the car. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage I love the 3.4 996... But I found an extremely cheap 996 Turbo that I purchased and am fixing up! So sadly I'm pushing the 3.4 on to the next buyer. I thought about doing the job with the engine in the car, but I figured it would be easier with it out and allow me to inspect and replace vacuum lines and what not on top of the engine. AoS, etc.
That Turbo was a good idea 🥳
Great stuff!! Can’t wait until you fully reassemble.
Dude, me tooooo. Maybe April 2023 at this rate 🤪
@@ManinaGarage no way, you’ll be finished before that.
“You’ll see that the worst thing that happens is it kind of comes out”
Just put it right back in lads, you’ll be fine.
Better in than out, I'd say 🙌
Great video mate, hope the fashion police didn't arrest you for wearing that shirt. Mick 🤣👍🍻🍀
Special occasions only, by permit. 🤘😎
So now that you’ve torn the entire engine down. Can these vario cam pads be replaced with the engine in the car. I’ve got 150,000 miles on my daily driver and think I might want to have a look. Thank you for these videos.
Hello Mike, From what i have been told it IS possible to replace them in the car. Good Luck with your project, I am happy to answer questions when your in the thick of it.Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Now I have a question... Don't you have to fill this variocam cylinders with motor oil, so on the first start of the car the chain don't jump a tooth due a slack in the system for lack of oil? Similar when you preload a old air cooled 911 carrera chain tensioner with oil
And if that is true and I'm not mistaken, how do we do that?
Hello Ricardo! The large spring preloads the system hence the need to compress it with the special tool. If you filled the system it would just leak out again by the time the engine was reassembled, it needs oil pressure to work. Thank you for watching. 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage Ohhhh, ok! have a great week end
Finn another great video! Just wondering and maybe I missed it in a earlier video but what was the mileage on your 996. Keep up the good work.
Hello Brian, you didn't miss anything. I'll be putting all the numbers together in an episode closer to the end. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Another amazing video!
Howdy Frank! 🤠 Happy Sunday!
Great video as usual. Those wipes are really pricey on Amazon. Where r u buying yours? I think the blue shop towels are lint free too.
Agree! they're specialized wipes for science and stuff. Shop towels melt when used with brake cleaner or acetone (ask me how I found out lol). I guess because of their composition or the way they're made. I'll suggest you to try white coffee filters. They are lint-free too and around $2 for a pack of 200+.
@@Fred82ndAbn that was going to be my next suggestion. I have thousands of those and use them for other tasks like filtering oil crud.
Hello Yogi,l That particular box came from Pelican Parts. I got those particular blue shop towels because of there lint free claims, the first time I used one on the crankshaft it left lint all over the place, that was the reason I bought the KIM Wipes. Another subscriber recommended coffee filters 🤩. I hope your Porsche is coming along nicely 🖖
@@ManinaGarage I had it checked out using a Durametric. I’ll be sharing the results in my next video! Be sure to check it out.
@@YogisGarage Sounds very efficient 🧑✈️
well done again, and nice shirt 😬
Flamingos, they look much prettier than they smell 😂 . Happy Monday Andrew!
Finn, I had to watch this one again to get a better perspective on the variocam set up. It is more than a bit unsettling that your car died because of the plastic tensioner ramps. A selfish question here...do you know if Porsche addressed this issue and improved the ramps in subsequent years? Or was your failure just because the ramps were installed in the wrong position? I have an '06 997 and really want to believe that these variocam ramps will not become an issue. I have also learned that the IMS is not an issue in my engine, and I think that bore scoring will not be an issue given how I drive the car. This issue that you are having (had) with your engine is the one thing that I am uncertain about. Any thoughts? Thanks, buddy!
Hello Tom,
I looked up some stuff on your car. You should have the larger single row ims bearing in 2006, not known for significant issues. Your car has an updated vario cam, more like the vario cam plus. I looked up chain guides for your car on pelican parts, they don’t seem to have any?? I think your car has a different system altogether. I know on the vario cam cars like mine that a durametric check of “Cam Deviations” while the engine is hot will give you an insight into the state of the little plastic timing chain guides. Anything over 5 degrees could be cause for concern. Not a decisive answer I’m afraid. but hopefully that gives you something to go on. 🤓
@@ManinaGarage Thanks a lot for this! Sorry to cause you extra work - it never even occurred to me to check out things with the parts suppliers to see what products are offered as replacements. That can certainly help build a better picture of what I have, exactly. I appreciate your help!
@@aboyandhisdog most welcome Sir🙌
Great job keep up the great work. Got my 996 on jack stands today (Saturday) gonna do an inspection of the rails and will go from there. PEACE
May the force be with you brother 🤘😎
Before I forget , While I was busy with my IMS bearing and my RMS I also serviced My Alternator , startermotor and put a new air/ oil separater ( that’s the reason your car smoked so heavily ) Next move is to put in an IPD plenum which improves Performance , good luck with the Progress on your Engine !!!
Hello Arnold, you are right, definitely new AOS. Did you service your Alternator yourself? Thank you for the heads up 🙏
@@ManinaGarage No a Friend of mine has a Bosch Service Station and he did. it together with the startermotor .
I changed my flywheel back to It‘s Original Status again .
Today I‘m going to work on my second car , which is a 83 SC !!
@@arnoldmosk494 Sweet, now that’s a real 911 😉.
@@ManinaGarage Don‘t worry , they both are , and the nice thing is that there is room for modifications without disturbing the Integrity of the car !!
Great video....thanks! This is the exactly problem I just started having on my 2001 boxster base. At idle it's rough and smooth throughout the rev range. It's throwing code P1325 which from researching is directing me to the vario cam solenoid bank 2
@@ShamileII I’m glad it helped you 🙌 Check out Porsche Engine Gurus on Facebook, they have started dismantling the solenoid to replace the O-rings, they have photos on their facebook m.facebook.com/groups/591859944843493/?ref=share&mibextid=S66gvF
Thank you for watching! 🙌😎
Same here - 2002 Boxster! Great video as I have acquired a couple of cam/solenoid units to work on, and now feel very confident about the job.
@@BlackBuck777 Thats good to hear. Thank you for watching! 🤘😎
Hey can you do cylinder head porting at the same time ?
Hello Valhalla, That is a really good question, I am not sure what I'm going to do with the cylinder heads yet, presumably the valves need to come out and get cleaned. Polishing and porting the heads sounds like something to look into at that stage. Thank you for the heads up. Have a great day in the north country!
@@ManinaGarage Send them to Hoffman Automotive (newsite.hamheads.com). He's the most renowned M96 head expert around. If there's any cracks, he'll find them and repair, plus he stress relieves. He can port polish and install new valve guide as well.
if i'm understanding it correctly, one pad has an 0-ring on it and the other one doesn't, if so, i can't imagine how it could NOT create a fatal problem if they were switched.
The word on the street is they were the correct way around, they were just old. When I made this video I knew less than I know now 🤪 Worn variocam pads were the reason this engine died. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
Oh can't wait till the week coming up bet his making the thumbnail right now !
Ooh it’s comin’ this week turned into a beast! 😅
I think this will be a good build. Don’t want to say too much but that cloth you used under the crank for cleaning looked remarkably like the Shroud of Turin. Just saying …
I need all the miracles I can get David 😇 . I'm glad your back in action!
Loving these videos! Bought a 996 a couple years ago, so really enjoying seeing how these engines work.
Now for a question for somebody that has experience with these cars - I was shocked to hear the chain had jumped 2 teeth. I would expect that to cause much more trouble than just a rough running engine. How many degrees does 2 teeth equate to, and how close was this engine to serious damage?
I don't have much experience with these engines but I believe the sprockets have 28 teeth, so 2 teeth off would be ~25 degrees (360/28 x 2). The Variocam is either on or off, advancing the intake timing 25 degrees when on. Since the exhaust sprocket is driven by the IMS chain it is not affected but the intake timing is retarded by the 25 degrees when Variocam is off and maybe this is just enough to cause the valve to contact the piston (seen in the earlier vid). ???
The Sprockets have 21 teeth if that helps? 17 degrees each.
@@ManinaGarage The M96 is an interference engine, correct? Again, I'm surprised this didn't cause valve/piston damage, but I'm just guessing because I don't know the specifics of these motors.
Just FYI the pads on bank 4-6 are supposed to be the opposite to bank 1-3, so you should put it back to how you found it on disassembly 😉 (you did bank 1-3 correctly so that's fine)
Hello Duncan, I have had half a dozen people tell me what your saying and at least as many tell me the opposite 🤯 . That aspect of the engine is covered in the Bentley Manual, it says that the lower (inner) Timing Guide Rail is always the one with the oil drain holes and the green O-ring. Throw me a bone here on why there is so much conflicting advice on this particular subject?? I really appreciate the comment, Thank you for watching 🤘 😎
If you look at the metal plates the pads clip on to, one of them has a small oil hole in the centre. The pad with the holes also has an o-ring designed to seal around this oil hole, so the oil sprays through the two holes on the pad to lubricate the chain and doesn't leak away. These are on opposite sides on each bank, and it seems the manuals are describing bank 1-3 only.
At least that's how I think it works! 😅
I have a question, will you be replacing the oil cooler in the car? I've read on some forums guys swapped out their stock cooler with a 997 one which gave a 15 percent cooler rate. The part number is 997.107.025.92 once I will tackle my 996 I don't want to go back in and do it right
Hello Mahmood, I had not heard of a benefit from replacing the 996 cooler with one from a 997, what forum was that on? I am replacing the oil returns with a set from a 997, the oil cooler thing sounds interesting..... Thank you for watching 🤘😎
No thank you for being the super star and leading the way, if you have any social media I can forward you what I have
@@mahmoodalattar2975 Sweet! Thank you. #amaninagarage on Instagram 🙏
Nice soundtrack
Thank you for watching Tony! 🤘😎
I was like "what does that little orange thing do...?"
Most days are like that.........🌼
Don't take your Porsche to a Porsche Dealership. I've owned many BMW's and Porsches. I take mine to Classic Design in Athens, Ga. Rich Dean is the BEST mechanic on Porsches & German / All Cars in the Southeastern USA. He can fabricate anything you need and bring to LIFE anything you want. I've seen him do it! BTW, Chip Ganassi ships his cars from the west coast so Rich can work on them. Just saying.. Best, Honest Car Guy I have ever known. NO BODY touches my cars! Only Rich Dean. And, BTW, he is a Porsche Race Car builder/ Driver and has many 1/st Place Trophy's on his Desk. I see them, as I just drop by to see all the wonderful projects he has going on!
I liked the flamingos shirt! 😎
Little know fact Ricardo, there are more plastic Flamingos on earth than real Flamingos 🤯. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage Well, that is very disturbing.
World order has been restored...
Those small dots are oil channels right ? So no wonder that side was completely destroyed due lack of lubrication if they those dots are holes (hard to decipher from the video).
Brutal how such a mistake can end up costing...
Yeah, no oil on the "push" side where needed most and they likely didn't fit the actuator properly, so they just didn't last.
I love when you answer the questions in my head! THANK YOU 🤩 . You guys ROCK 🏄♂️
👍
More girls soon Don, I promise 🙏
@@ManinaGarage Suppose that engine has been out once before?
@@donesper2070 Hello Don, what I feel happened is that the cam pad service was done by an independent at some time with the engine in the car and they put the pads in backwards. More evidence may come up, that’s what I think right now. I hope you are having a great Saturday!
@@ManinaGarage Yes, as always, the used engine in my 911 whent through 2 others before it ended up in mine, the last had an unfortunate meating with a 🦌 on the road
Nicee 🤤🤤🌸🌸🤤🤤🌸🌸🤤🤤🌸🌸🤤🤤🌸🌸🤤🤤🌸🌸🤤🤤🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🍀🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓🙏
Did your 2 teeth worth of skip cause the pistons and valves to get to know each other?
Good question Brandon, I expected that some contact would have occurred. Now that it’s all back together I can say that there was no contact between valve and piston. Thank you for watching 🤘😎
@@ManinaGarage happy to have discovered your channel (just today!)
@@brandonrussell8306 Awesome 🙌 Welcome aboard Brandon 🫡. I’m literally in the car right now getting ready to shoot a red line acceleration onto the highway shot, traffic allowing 😅