I thought with me being into Honda’s, I would have a “easy time” however screw that… lol 😂 this reminds me of working on a VW/Audi lol 😂 I’d rather pay someone else
Thanks for the video man. I was able to change the clutch in one and a half days in my driveway. It was honestly really fun and easy. The hardest part was lining the transmission back up to the engine. Everything else was super smooth sailing. Your video definitely helped alot!
I've done a lot of work on my cars but never done a clutch. Still kind of freaked out on the amount of stuff you have to take out. But watching this video really takes a lot of the anxiety out of the equation. Very detailed. Thanks alot for this video. Really appreciate it.
I did the job a few months ago thanks to your video! This made me realize the scope of what I can do on my own and I’ll be pulling and rebuild my k20z3 for the first time this weekend!
Thank you!! Rather informative and relaxed. I did the clutch on my daughter's car. This video is the only one I really watched. Well done! It was great to see family helping you out. High 5 to a fellow canuck!
Just a little tip for anyone that has replaced their clutch and got their civic put back together and now it won't start. Check your bolt that goes back through the one plastic wire harness. Sometimes ppl forget to put it back in. I remembered to put it back in but it was so corroded that it wasn't making proper ground connection so I wire brushed all metal contacts and then checked continuity at all places between that point and the battery. That includes the wire going from the transmission to the frame and the other one going from the frame to the battery. Apparently this is a major problem with civics that crank and don't start after doing major work and removing this bolt. One quick way to check is to hook a code reader up to it and then if it starts and runs with the code reader on then you have a bad ground.
Glad your in a better place mentally and physically man. Can't wait to start see some more videos from you, I can honestly say your my favorite UA-cam creator. Bbbuuuuttttt that 2jz and 5.3 tho 😅
Thank you for a great guide on how to tackle this job. We were following a combination of your process and that of the Honda Service manual which we downloaded, and had the same issues in loosening the rear engine mount bolts and intermediate shaft bearing housing. In the Honda manual, they suggest dropping the subframe earlier, which in hindsight is exactly what we should have done, as those bolts and those on the heat shield are very easily accessible with the subfame out of the way - that is the way we reassembled. To lower the subframe you have only the big six bolts and one for cable clip and another clip, so once those are out of the way (after disconnecting the lower ball joint on the lower control arms and tying up the steering rack to the top to prevent it dropping), everything else is a breeze, even the bracket supporting the right hand shaft carrier bearing. In terms of "how much can you drop the subframe to get access to remove it's brackets and cables, we found that if you turn out the four long bolts located on each corner of the subframe and leave just enough thread in it so it still supports the subframe, you can access all. The subframe is not that heavy. Instead of supporting the engine with a jack from below, we fabricated a hanger (Honda sells something to do this but we made our own - Engine Support Hanger, A and Reds AAR-T1256, Engine Hanger Adapter VSB02C000015) and hung the engine off that, while supporting it all on the front suspension tower mounts and front valence. It took some time to set this up, but helped a lot as we could adjust engine level up and down from the top in finite increments.
Thanks my guy did this job over Thanksgiving weekend along with lower control arms ball joints outer tie rods rear camber arms and a full set of coilovers... All by watching this and one other video!!! Much Appreciated..... 💪🏾😁
Hey man I cant thank you enough for making this video. I just finished replacing my clutch on my 2012 honda civic ex coupe with over 200k miles on it using this video. It took a long ass time, but we got er done!! Also replaced the slave and the CMC (which was probably the biggest pain in the ass of all).
Good job. You inspired me to do this in my garage vs. taking up a lift at the shop for two days. I followed this video thoroughly. Thank you for all your detail, like the passenger side cv axle. Those bracket bolts were the hardest part of the whole job. I was able to keep my rack and pinion tied up, but I ended up having to take it out anyways to get the transmission back in. So thanks for including the clockspring adjustment. Again, great detail on the small things, like the tapered surface for the pilot bushing. True technician! Also, how tf did you get that pilot bushing out like that?? Lucky! Had to use a slide hammer. Happy to have my FG2 back.
Thank you for the video. I had trouble getting my pilot bushing out and ended up having to use the bread trick to get that out. I took the transaxle out on the passenger side to make those 3 hard to get to bolts that hold the steady bearing to the back of the engine a whole lot easier to get out and back in. Your video gave me the confidence to do it myself on my 2015 civic si and it is working perfect now. Almost done with the 500 mile break in period
Leave the tie rods on the knuckle to help support the rack and leave it up, and leave the subframe side mounts they are slotted to be guides going back in, only take the loosen the slotted bolts
Nice work youngster! I did the the clutch job for my stepson’s 2008 Civic Si last year. It was challenging and satisfying once I got it all put back together and worked as intended 👍 I kept the rack opinion secured instead of removing the whole assembly. I didn’t want to mess the alignment. When I was a teenager in the late 80s. I assisted my dad replacing the clutch on his 1968 Toyota Corona. It was fun and pretty easy being a rear wheel drive. This was my first time doing a front wheel drive. I knew it was going to take a while due to my work schedule. So, I lend him my old faithful 1997 Camry LE with over 300K miles on the clock. He was so impressed how smooth and semi fast it was. No comparison to his Si 😁
My friend and I are attempting to replace the clutch on my '08 without removing the subframe. It's tricky but there's just barely enough room to remove the clutch, not sure how I'm going to do the throwout bearing though. Gonna try and put the new one on tomorrow, but I just wanted to let you know that your video has been super helpful to us so far :)
Update: We decided to just drop the subframe because the pilot bearing was a royal PITA. We also made the exact same mistake and dropped the steering rack 😅
Yeah I dropped my sub I was thinking I probably could do it without dropping but why not make love easier but dropping it, not that big o deal. Thank you for the idea of strapping it that worked good
Something to note is you’re fine with the rack and pinion coming out which isn’t a big deal, you don’t need to take out any of the bolts. It’s only bolted to the subframe. hope this saves your knuckles😂👍
I followed your video step by step and my steering rack stayed up like you thought yours would. Thought that was interesting. Unfortunately the threads on my big starter bolt were absolutely obliterated. Thanks for the awesome video!
Best video ever step by step too? Just did it today and finished it. Clutch feels amazing! Only thing is my rack popped out we got it back in but the steering wheel keeps turning left? I didnt brake the clock spring or anything the steering wheel was locked in place with a seat belt! Anyone have any clues? I’m going to recenter the steering wheel tomorrow and see what happens
I’ve never done any extensive work on a car. The clutch in my si is done for. I’m tired of spending shop money to fix cars. So this might be my first attempt at doing it
Just did mine this was a great video BUT guess I recommend remove steering shaft from under dash it’s a 10mm bolt and pull up on the shaft and disconnect harness from eps on passenger side
How did you put the steering rack back up and lined it straight ? Lol my alignment is off toe on right side is perfect but left side it’s at -3.83 can’t go positive reached the threads of tie rod is my rack not aligned correctly?
As someone else said wrap wrap wrap lol. It gets very hot back there with a sidewinder. As for the coolant lines to the throttle body I’ve had mine looped for years and never had issues even in subzero temps. Solid content bro, your going to fall in love once it’s together and running. Heads up keep torque as low as possible during tuning. These stock transmissions are made of glass and break even with na setups. Be prepared for that 😂
Think you meant to comment on the turbo civic build video 😅 but yes you are 100% right. Good to hear about the throttle body hose routing! I’m so excited to get this thing running 🔥
@@DanielKellert 😂😂 well shit I guess I did that lol my bad, you get what’s going on so probably not going to bother correcting it. Aye keep it up man 👍
Wish this came out a year ago, my car is just sitting atm now, everytime I push the clutch in it stalls out (note this only happens when it's done with cold start)
It's a labor intensive job, but once it's done it's good for a while! Gotta do it soon on my 9th gen. Clutch is good, but throw out bearing is starting to make a little noise.
Good idea is to take a paint pen and mark that spine up near the steering wheel. Then once you pull it all apart make sure you don't turn that rod 180. That way youll line right back up
So I got everything nice and tight but now the car will not start. All the lights turn on but it will not crank or anything any tips? Would I have to flash the ecu or something
Little bit of heavy chatter for first maybe 500-1k miles, after that the chatter has been pretty minimal. Which is crazy for a 6 puck, usually they chatter like crazy. Competition must put some really good damper springs in the clutch hub.
I just put a stage 1 in my ‘12 si definitely don’t go cheap! 😂 exedy has been highly suggested I unfortunately did not go with that brand. I went with ClutchMaxPro. As of 988 (600 is city the rest was highway) miles the throw out bearing that came with it is bad already smh. Putting a Honda T/O bearing on next week and we’ll see how this cheap brand stage 1 holds up 🫤 i don’t have much hope. Wasn’t my choice of brands kinda had to just get something on so I could get my kids around since it’s my daily.
Hi all bolts are out including bottom starter bolt was there a top bolt as well that need to be removed because my transmission won't separate there only a pinch of play when trying to pry and wiggle off
@@sinder9739 find a long pry bar with a thin edge to at least crack it open and use a second pry bar to separate fully it was a pain bro but I got it don't give up ok
Thanks for the great detailed video! My 2012 Is will need a clutch eventually with 135,000 miles on it already - it's not slipping... yet! I don't run it very hard either!
Hey dude, I recently replaced the clutch on my 2012 si and we put everything back on but after driving it for a little the vsa light started flashing on the dash and the brake pedal vibrates when being pressed. I was wondering if you know what this could be?
I did a job a while back, someone did a clutch change and had the same problem. I found that they stretched the abs cable that Is connected below the air intake housing,
Just finished getting mine out today. Stock OEM clutch with 190k on it. Same exact issue, part of that spring housing busted out and I'd get locked out of gear intermittently. Chewed the absolute fuck out of my flywheel bolts to the point I didn't think there would be enough left for the socket to grab. Just waiting for my flywheel to be resurfaced and an Exedy OEM spec ones going back in! Hoping to never have to do this again
Probably a stupid question, but can you confirm that the transmission will not bolt back up unless the shaft is properly lined up and engaged in the pilot bushing?
You won’t be able to bolt it up if the trans input shaft is not lined up in the pilot bushing & clutch disc splines. If it’s not lined up, you would have a gap between the engine & trans when installing the bell housing bolts. If there is no gap between engine & trans once it’s full seated, then you should be good to go 👍🏼
Just put the stage 4 CC clutch in. Chatter is crazy at low rpms in 1st during take off. I have to rev it to like 2k and dump it a little to get it not to chatter. Did you have the same experience?
It’s a little chattery to begin with. For the first 3k miles/5k km of driving, don’t rev match on downshifts. Just let the clutch out slowly & let the friction surface rub against the flywheel to help break it in. Same concept as breaking in brand new brake pads. Mine has very little chatter now & have put about 30k km on it since. 👍🏼 hope it gets better for ya!
@@Arronk20 Well you gotta expect some chatter when you buy a 6 puck clutch with stiff hub springs & a heavy duty pressure plate 😅 it definitely won’t feel anywhere near the same as a full face disc & will chatter way more. 6 puck clutches are not meant for daily driving. I bought this clutch because I’m boosting the car & it can handle a lot of torque. Hope it gets better for ya Arron 🙌🏼
Just use a jack on the bottom of the transmission with a wide piece of wood. That’s how I did my buddy’s in his RSX. Engine crane honestly wasn’t much easier than just using a jack.
You can do it that way too if you want to cram your hands in there haha. I just like to have a clear view of all the components & properly clean & lubricate everything while it’s all out. 👍🏼
Really loved the content man thank you for sharing! Is there any way you could bundle all videos from your 8gen civic in one file so I could purchase them? I don't want to purchase a subscription from UA-cam but I would be more than happy to purchase all your 8gen videos. Thanks again I really enjoyed your content!
Thanks Mark! It’s free to subscribe to my channel on UA-cam! Here a link to the civic build playlist where I have been & will continue to post all of my content on the turbo 8th Gen build! It’s all free! ua-cam.com/play/PLM44x1RALdM_3FufaXHcXyg8ncIDr14Wi.html
Also did you reinstall the sub frame first and then the power steering rack or did the rack have to go in first? Mine may have dropped out as well. Very awesome and informative video by the way!
Install the rack u joint to the steering column splines first, then lift them both in at the same time. The rack mounts to the subframe, just need to make sure the rack u joint is on the splines before lifting them in at the same time 👍🏼
Just curious why you had to disconnect the tie rods. Usually just leave the rack suspended by leaving the tie rods in place. Or were they in your way for something?
Makes it easier to get the axles out with the tie rods off, but would’ve been smart to bolt them back up after the axles were out & suspend the rack by the tie rods like you said 🤦🏻 oh well! Appreciate the info! Definitely doing that next time 😅
Thanks for the video dude. You have inspired me to pay someone to replace my clutch for me.
HAHA best comment so far 😂
Seriously, I was considering doing it myself. Ima either pay someone or just sell the damn car and by an automatic.
Dude pay for mine too lol
😀😃🤣 😂 😆
I thought with me being into Honda’s, I would have a “easy time” however screw that… lol 😂 this reminds me of working on a VW/Audi lol 😂 I’d rather pay someone else
I just followed this tutorial for the past two days and I genuinely think i would not have been able to do this without you bro
I gotchu 🤝🏼
ive been watching for a while now and u fr are an underated creator@@DanielKellert
Thanks for the video man. I was able to change the clutch in one and a half days in my driveway. It was honestly really fun and easy. The hardest part was lining the transmission back up to the engine. Everything else was super smooth sailing. Your video definitely helped alot!
Best video I have found about replacing clutch. Straight to the point yet detailed when required. Thanks mate
Keep these 8th gen build videos coming brother. Inspires me to fix my FA5
I completely redone my clutch from this video on my own thank you soooo much!!!!! Perfect step to step video!!!!
I've done a lot of work on my cars but never done a clutch. Still kind of freaked out on the amount of stuff you have to take out. But watching this video really takes a lot of the anxiety out of the equation. Very detailed. Thanks alot for this video. Really appreciate it.
Glad it helped! Tried to be as detailed as I could :)
Had to come back and thank you again, 8 months later and my car drives like a dream. Awesome fucking video
Glad you got er back on the road! 👍🏼
I did the job a few months ago thanks to your video! This made me realize the scope of what I can do on my own and I’ll be pulling and rebuild my k20z3 for the first time this weekend!
Just finished it!
@@HankHill323 hell yeah !
Thank you!! Rather informative and relaxed. I did the clutch on my daughter's car. This video is the only one I really watched. Well done! It was great to see family helping you out. High 5 to a fellow canuck!
Just a little tip for anyone that has replaced their clutch and got their civic put back together and now it won't start. Check your bolt that goes back through the one plastic wire harness. Sometimes ppl forget to put it back in. I remembered to put it back in but it was so corroded that it wasn't making proper ground connection so I wire brushed all metal contacts and then checked continuity at all places between that point and the battery. That includes the wire going from the transmission to the frame and the other one going from the frame to the battery. Apparently this is a major problem with civics that crank and don't start after doing major work and removing this bolt. One quick way to check is to hook a code reader up to it and then if it starts and runs with the code reader on then you have a bad ground.
Glad your in a better place mentally and physically man. Can't wait to start see some more videos from you, I can honestly say your my favorite UA-cam creator. Bbbuuuuttttt that 2jz and 5.3 tho 😅
Thank you for a great guide on how to tackle this job. We were following a combination of your process and that of the Honda Service manual which we downloaded, and had the same issues in loosening the rear engine mount bolts and intermediate shaft bearing housing. In the Honda manual, they suggest dropping the subframe earlier, which in hindsight is exactly what we should have done, as those bolts and those on the heat shield are very easily accessible with the subfame out of the way - that is the way we reassembled.
To lower the subframe you have only the big six bolts and one for cable clip and another clip, so once those are out of the way (after disconnecting the lower ball joint on the lower control arms and tying up the steering rack to the top to prevent it dropping), everything else is a breeze, even the bracket supporting the right hand shaft carrier bearing.
In terms of "how much can you drop the subframe to get access to remove it's brackets and cables, we found that if you turn out the four long bolts located on each corner of the subframe and leave just enough thread in it so it still supports the subframe, you can access all. The subframe is not that heavy.
Instead of supporting the engine with a jack from below, we fabricated a hanger (Honda sells something to do this but we made our own - Engine Support Hanger, A and Reds AAR-T1256, Engine Hanger Adapter VSB02C000015) and hung the engine off that, while supporting it all on the front suspension tower mounts and front valence. It took some time to set this up, but helped a lot as we could adjust engine level up and down from the top in finite increments.
Thanks my guy did this job over Thanksgiving weekend along with lower control arms ball joints outer tie rods rear camber arms and a full set of coilovers... All by watching this and one other video!!!
Much Appreciated..... 💪🏾😁
Let’s go! Glad I could fit almost all of the info you needed in one video 👍🏼 Sounds like a solid Thanksgiving weekend to me!
@@DanielKellert Couldn't be happier I actually broke my clutch disc as well which made me laugh🤣
Hey man I cant thank you enough for making this video. I just finished replacing my clutch on my 2012 honda civic ex coupe with over 200k miles on it using this video. It took a long ass time, but we got er done!! Also replaced the slave and the CMC (which was probably the biggest pain in the ass of all).
Glad it helped you out man!
@@DanielKellert now im replacing the a/c clutch because that also went out lol
Learned so much just watching the video! I have a 2012 civic si, she still has around 50k miles I’m hoping to push her for years to come 💙
Your video is so detailed. I was thinking about getting a mechanic but I think I’ll do it myself! Thanks so much! 🍻🙏
Good job. You inspired me to do this in my garage vs. taking up a lift at the shop for two days. I followed this video thoroughly. Thank you for all your detail, like the passenger side cv axle. Those bracket bolts were the hardest part of the whole job. I was able to keep my rack and pinion tied up, but I ended up having to take it out anyways to get the transmission back in. So thanks for including the clockspring adjustment. Again, great detail on the small things, like the tapered surface for the pilot bushing. True technician!
Also, how tf did you get that pilot bushing out like that?? Lucky! Had to use a slide hammer.
Happy to have my FG2 back.
Thank you for the video. I had trouble getting my pilot bushing out and ended up having to use the bread trick to get that out. I took the transaxle out on the passenger side to make those 3 hard to get to bolts that hold the steady bearing to the back of the engine a whole lot easier to get out and back in. Your video gave me the confidence to do it myself on my 2015 civic si and it is working perfect now. Almost done with the 500 mile break in period
this video helped with my clutch replacement as well! i came back to rewatch some of the areas where i struggled a bit hahaha.
Leave the tie rods on the knuckle to help support the rack and leave it up, and leave the subframe side mounts they are slotted to be guides going back in, only take the loosen the slotted bolts
Nice work youngster! I did the the clutch job for my stepson’s 2008 Civic Si last year. It was challenging and satisfying once I got it all put back together and worked as intended 👍 I kept the rack opinion secured instead of removing the whole assembly. I didn’t want to mess the alignment. When I was a teenager in the late 80s. I assisted my dad replacing the clutch on his 1968 Toyota Corona. It was fun and pretty easy being a rear wheel drive. This was my first time doing a front wheel drive. I knew it was going to take a while due to my work schedule. So, I lend him my old faithful 1997 Camry LE with over 300K miles on the clock. He was so impressed how smooth and semi fast it was. No comparison to his Si 😁
Good looks on the detailed video bro, it helped me take off my first transmission. Was pretty easy. That throw out bearing was lock-in me out
Good job man! Glad it helped :)
My steering rack fell out to lol, dose it just slide back in? In the foot well?
My friend and I are attempting to replace the clutch on my '08 without removing the subframe. It's tricky but there's just barely enough room to remove the clutch, not sure how I'm going to do the throwout bearing though. Gonna try and put the new one on tomorrow, but I just wanted to let you know that your video has been super helpful to us so far :)
Good luck! That will be tight for sure 😅 appreciate the support 🙌🏼
Update: We decided to just drop the subframe because the pilot bearing was a royal PITA. We also made the exact same mistake and dropped the steering rack 😅
@@222clove This made me laugh way too hard 😂
@@DanielKellert i learned not to make that mistake, thanks to you lol
Yeah I dropped my sub I was thinking I probably could do it without dropping but why not make love easier but dropping it, not that big o deal. Thank you for the idea of strapping it that worked good
My car still drives like a dream, thanks man
Why am i just finding this now. Damn. Great video
100% earned my follow I gotta do this to my civic here soon
Something to note is you’re fine with the rack and pinion coming out which isn’t a big deal, you don’t need to take out any of the bolts. It’s only bolted to the subframe. hope this saves your knuckles😂👍
Also drop the subframe before taking out the steady bearing and starter bolts and it’s super easy
I followed your video step by step and my steering rack stayed up like you thought yours would. Thought that was interesting. Unfortunately the threads on my big starter bolt were absolutely obliterated. Thanks for the awesome video!
Ayy that’s what I like to hear Brett! Hopefully those threads were saveable with a tap or heli coil 😬
Such a good video. High quality and very informative. Subscribed!
Best video ever step by step too? Just did it today and finished it. Clutch feels amazing! Only thing is my rack popped out we got it back in but the steering wheel keeps turning left? I didnt brake the clock spring or anything the steering wheel was locked in place with a seat belt! Anyone have any clues? I’m going to recenter the steering wheel tomorrow and see what happens
2015 Accord lx similar to what you just did?
I’ve never done any extensive work on a car. The clutch in my si is done for. I’m tired of spending shop money to fix cars. So this might be my first attempt at doing it
Good luck 🙌🏼 you got this 👍🏼
Just did mine this was a great video BUT guess I recommend remove steering shaft from under dash it’s a 10mm bolt and pull up on the shaft and disconnect harness from eps on passenger side
How did you put the steering rack back up and lined it straight ? Lol my alignment is off toe on right side is perfect but left side it’s at -3.83 can’t go positive reached the threads of tie rod is my rack not aligned correctly?
My control arm hardly moves down when I use the pry bar to separate it from the brakes. Any suggestions?
Thanks for this video my man, just finished my clutch job today, couldn’t of done it with you dude 🤘🤘
Ayyy that’s what I like to hear! Good job! Glad you got it done 🤙🏼
Definitely gonna save and share this video
Appreciate that 🙌🏼
What happens if the pilot bearing is not flush like you said?
As someone else said wrap wrap wrap lol. It gets very hot back there with a sidewinder. As for the coolant lines to the throttle body I’ve had mine looped for years and never had issues even in subzero temps. Solid content bro, your going to fall in love once it’s together and running. Heads up keep torque as low as possible during tuning. These stock transmissions are made of glass and break even with na setups. Be prepared for that 😂
Think you meant to comment on the turbo civic build video 😅 but yes you are 100% right. Good to hear about the throttle body hose routing! I’m so excited to get this thing running 🔥
@@DanielKellert 😂😂 well shit I guess I did that lol my bad, you get what’s going on so probably not going to bother correcting it. Aye keep it up man 👍
Good job I didn't took off my sub frame just lose it a little and did everything from the top
I can’t get the fill plug off for the transmission. Any quick tips to make it easy?
Wish this came out a year ago, my car is just sitting atm now, everytime I push the clutch in it stalls out (note this only happens when it's done with cold start)
good time to put after market shifter cable end bushings on,
my pedal had no pressure after doing all this i never let any fluid out of the lines
It's a labor intensive job, but once it's done it's good for a while! Gotta do it soon on my 9th gen. Clutch is good, but throw out bearing is starting to make a little noise.
Hey im doing as you are and wanted to ask do i have to unbolt steering rack 1st before i strap it and how to strap it it thanks...
Good idea is to take a paint pen and mark that spine up near the steering wheel. Then once you pull it all apart make sure you don't turn that rod 180. That way youll line right back up
I usually do that. In this case I didn’t know the rack was going to fall out 😅 on most cars the intermediate shaft is bolted to the column & rack
What happened to you with the steering rack happened to me and this just helped me get confidence to put my car together
So I got everything nice and tight but now the car will not start. All the lights turn on but it will not crank or anything any tips? Would I have to flash the ecu or something
Did u have to remove the starter if u did how don't u have to remove the manifold
This helped me a lot on to replace my own clutch on my fa5
Is there a certain way to place the clutch alignment tool? Still confused about it. Does it only go in one way?
Did you get chatter on the clutch during the break-in 300 mile period? If so, how much?
Did it get better after break in?
Little bit of heavy chatter for first maybe 500-1k miles, after that the chatter has been pretty minimal. Which is crazy for a 6 puck, usually they chatter like crazy. Competition must put some really good damper springs in the clutch hub.
Hey I'm having to replace the clutch on my 09 si and wanted to know which clutch I should go with for a daily driver?
For a daily I’d just get an Exedy oem replacement or an Exedy stage 1.
Thanks man. Would it be recommended to replace the flywheel as well?
@@justinfrick5200 Either replace it or get it resurfaced 👍🏼
I just put a stage 1 in my ‘12 si definitely don’t go cheap! 😂 exedy has been highly suggested I unfortunately did not go with that brand. I went with ClutchMaxPro. As of 988 (600 is city the rest was highway) miles the throw out bearing that came with it is bad already smh. Putting a Honda T/O bearing on next week and we’ll see how this cheap brand stage 1 holds up 🫤 i don’t have much hope. Wasn’t my choice of brands kinda had to just get something on so I could get my kids around since it’s my daily.
My trans didn’t separate even with all the bolts out
How did u line up the electric power steering back up? Did u do it a certain way to line it up so it would be correct?
Hi all bolts are out including bottom starter bolt was there a top bolt as well that need to be removed because my transmission won't separate there only a pinch of play when trying to pry and wiggle off
hey, did you ever figure this out? i’m currently having the same problem with mine.
@@sinder9739 yes the top bolt in the back also
@@sinder9739 find a long pry bar with a thin edge to at least crack it open and use a second pry bar to separate fully it was a pain bro but I got it don't give up ok
Lol passenger axle definitely doesn’t just “slide right out”
Should I adjust my clutch pedal like this with my stock clutch?
Did you have to remove the axle nuts? I don’t think you do
Thanks for the great detailed video! My 2012 Is will need a clutch eventually with 135,000 miles on it already - it's not slipping... yet! I don't run it very hard either!
I'm about to hopefully get a 2012 that needs a clutch I'm still not sure if I wanna attempt this myself or take it to a shop
Thank you! i learned a lot from your video. Fabulous bro.
New subscriber. You are so detailed and thank you
Hey dude, I recently replaced the clutch on my 2012 si and we put everything back on but after driving it for a little the vsa light started flashing on the dash and the brake pedal vibrates when being pressed. I was wondering if you know what this could be?
I did a job a while back, someone did a clutch change and had the same problem. I found that they stretched the abs cable that Is connected below the air intake housing,
A Monday vlog! Wooo!!
More like a Monday movie 😅 this was a long one
I replaced my clutch and flyway same Honda gen as yours car, for some reason car will crank but won’t turn on. Would you know why
Out of time
Hey just did my clucth and my steering rack fell out also. How did you get it back in with the steering wheel staright?
looks like I willalso be doing that clock spring thing.
Just finished getting mine out today. Stock OEM clutch with 190k on it. Same exact issue, part of that spring housing busted out and I'd get locked out of gear intermittently. Chewed the absolute fuck out of my flywheel bolts to the point I didn't think there would be enough left for the socket to grab. Just waiting for my flywheel to be resurfaced and an Exedy OEM spec ones going back in! Hoping to never have to do this again
Nothin that can’t be fixed! Good luck with the install Austin 🤙🏼
Was adjusting the clutch hard an how long did it take
Appreciate the effort - nicely done.
Can I get a copy of your torque specs and diagrams you used? Also do you have any for a transmission rebuild?
Is that clutch adjustment the same with a ktuned cmc
Best video ever helped a lot
My 2005 Acura RSX is asking for a new clutch. it's beginning to slip, but the car still drives.
Does anyone know if this would be the same routine for a 9th gen civic?
How long did it take you from start to finish
Probably a stupid question, but can you confirm that the transmission will not bolt back up unless the shaft is properly lined up and engaged in the pilot bushing?
You won’t be able to bolt it up if the trans input shaft is not lined up in the pilot bushing & clutch disc splines. If it’s not lined up, you would have a gap between the engine & trans when installing the bell housing bolts. If there is no gap between engine & trans once it’s full seated, then you should be good to go 👍🏼
@@DanielKellert ok good deal. I fought with that thing for so long it didn’t seem real that I got it bolted back together.
Should I put locktite on the flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts
Some blue loctite wouldn’t hurt anybody! I usually put blue on the bolts for every flywheel I do.
Good job Knuk!
Would you recommend replacing the detent springs and gear selector springs?
If you were ever having trouble getting the car into gear or it would pop out of gear then yes, otherwise I don’t see any reason to replace them 👍🏼
How long would you estimate it took to do this
where you take the flywheel to ?
@@onelowvdub I took it to Alberta Cylinder Head.
one of the best vids 💪
🙌🏼🙌🏼
Thanks for the video, much appreciated.
Hey bud, when u dropped the rack and the intermediate shaft came out too, did u hav ealignment issues? or did u mark the splines?
Just put the stage 4 CC clutch in. Chatter is crazy at low rpms in 1st during take off. I have to rev it to like 2k and dump it a little to get it not to chatter. Did you have the same experience?
It’s a little chattery to begin with. For the first 3k miles/5k km of driving, don’t rev match on downshifts. Just let the clutch out slowly & let the friction surface rub against the flywheel to help break it in. Same concept as breaking in brand new brake pads. Mine has very little chatter now & have put about 30k km on it since. 👍🏼 hope it gets better for ya!
Yea a little is an understatement lol. I've only got about 200 miles on it. Hope it gets better.
@@Arronk20 Well you gotta expect some chatter when you buy a 6 puck clutch with stiff hub springs & a heavy duty pressure plate 😅 it definitely won’t feel anywhere near the same as a full face disc & will chatter way more. 6 puck clutches are not meant for daily driving. I bought this clutch because I’m boosting the car & it can handle a lot of torque. Hope it gets better for ya Arron 🙌🏼
How would you do this if you didn’t have an engine crane
Just use a jack on the bottom of the transmission with a wide piece of wood. That’s how I did my buddy’s in his RSX. Engine crane honestly wasn’t much easier than just using a jack.
Just did same clutch did it in the girls driveway didn't have to drop subframe..just move transmission back really simple..
You can do it that way too if you want to cram your hands in there haha. I just like to have a clear view of all the components & properly clean & lubricate everything while it’s all out. 👍🏼
I cannot get my wheel well back together
Really loved the content man thank you for sharing! Is there any way you could bundle all videos from your 8gen civic in one file so I could purchase them? I don't want to purchase a subscription from UA-cam but I would be more than happy to purchase all your 8gen videos. Thanks again I really enjoyed your content!
Thanks Mark! It’s free to subscribe to my channel on UA-cam! Here a link to the civic build playlist where I have been & will continue to post all of my content on the turbo 8th Gen build! It’s all free! ua-cam.com/play/PLM44x1RALdM_3FufaXHcXyg8ncIDr14Wi.html
How many hours did you take? Everything was in one day? Thanks for show us how to do it appreciate it!!!
How tf did u remove the pilot bushing holy shit
Nice video my guy
Also did you reinstall the sub frame first and then the power steering rack or did the rack have to go in first? Mine may have dropped out as well. Very awesome and informative video by the way!
Install the rack u joint to the steering column splines first, then lift them both in at the same time. The rack mounts to the subframe, just need to make sure the rack u joint is on the splines before lifting them in at the same time 👍🏼
@@DanielKellert cool man thank you!
Great video!
Just curious why you had to disconnect the tie rods. Usually just leave the rack suspended by leaving the tie rods in place. Or were they in your way for something?
Makes it easier to get the axles out with the tie rods off, but would’ve been smart to bolt them back up after the axles were out & suspend the rack by the tie rods like you said 🤦🏻 oh well! Appreciate the info! Definitely doing that next time 😅
There was a few things that was overboard on removing and didn’t have to
Nice job!!how the clutch is holding?planning to go with same clutch brand but stage 2 on my o5 rsxtype s.thanks
Been running it for 4 months now & she’s solid! Real test will be how she handles boost 🙃
@@DanielKellert nice 👌 thanks.