How to bleed a Honda Clutch | 8th Civic Si and RSX Type-S (FG2,FA5, DC5) Honda
Вставка
- Опубліковано 10 жов 2024
- How to bleed a clutch, according to the Honda Factory Service Manual. This method is applicable to almost any Honda, however the tool/sizes may be different. Aftermarket K-tuned, HybridRacing, Hardmotion slave cylinder bleeder valve will be the same size as stock so the specs in this video will be the same.
References,
Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement: civic.hondafitj...
Clutch Bleeding: civic.hondafitj... (step 6)
MODS:
K-Tuned 3.5 inch Cold Air Intake with Velocity Stack
Invidia N1 Catback Exhaust
Tanabe Upper Strut Bar
HFP Struts
ST Springs (KW)
Stage 1 Action Clutch
K-Tuned Clutch Master Cylinder
K-Tuned Slave Cylinder
FD2 Type-R Valve Cover
FD2 Type-R Dip Stck
DC5 Type-R Shift Knob
DC5 Type-R wheels caps
FD2 Type-R Honda Badges
J's racing Oil Cap
Vit viper Tuned
#honda
#VTEC
#civic
#mods
#k20
#ktuned
#actionclutch
Music: Markvard - Feel my Love (copyright free) Respect to the artist for the music
Ok, I just did this. Here are my thoughts.
1) This is the best video on this topic that I found on UA-cam. Accurate & concise. I appreciate it.
2) For those wondering, it takes about 1/2 bottle of 12oz Dot3 fluid to completely flush/bleed.
3) I used a brand new, sealed bottle of Honda brake fluid.
4) I bought a condiment bottle from Dollar Tree and modified it as my "catch" reservoir.
5) The 3/16" I.D. clear tubing was a great call! I bought a 10' roll from Home Depot for about $6.
6) I filled the Catch bottle about 1/2 full. It probably would be fine to fill it about 1/3, that way there's more fluid available in your new bottle.
7) My son (his car), handled the clutch pedal duties and it took probably 10 cycles before I started seeing clean fluid at the slave cylinder bleed valve. I'd say it was AT LEAST 15 cycles before I was comfortable with air being removed.
8) After that, I did 3 cycles with the socket extensions jamming the slave cylinder fork.
9) checked the fluid reservoir and called it good!
10) Honda OEM Dot 3 fluid was available on Amazon for $17. That's only a couple bucks more than at AutoZone so I decided to use Honda.
EDIT: Forgot to add- I did this because I just replaced the Master Cyl. To do that, I disconnected the hard line from the flex line (under the battery tray), so I had introduced air into the system. So, "about" 6 oz is what it takes to flush & replace the Clutch Hyd. line.
Wow I thought it was as simple as just opening the value, stamping on the clutch and then filling it back up...
Too much work for me, I'll let a mechanic do it.
Awesome video. I had to replace my clutch hose and this made flushing the system once I got the part replaced a breeze. I had a second person pumping the clutch pedal and it saved a lot of time.
Seriously, thank you for this detailed walk thru. Been putting this one off for awhile on my 08 FG2...
Arvin Jami thanks man I really appreciate it!
Faster way to bleed 🩸
-crack the bleeder valve (Leave it open).
-Make sure the end of hose is submerged into the container with fluid
-leave the reservoir cap off,
-pump the pedal about 4-5 times (you dont need to hold it down)
-check the reservoir , fluid low ? Top it off to full. (dont let the reservoir too low air could go inside the lines.) repeat the process
Check the hose until theres no bubbles comin out , close the valve.
🍻 cheers
This can work but you really have to keep an eye on fluid while doing it, maybe have a second person pouring in more. Also this method may not produce enough pressure to force all the air bubbles out. But thank you for the comment! I appreciate it
watched tons of videos of tutorials on how to do this! by far the best well explained one thank you!
Thanks so much! Needed to know how to do this after replacing a master clutch cylinder on an FN2
Thank you very much. I have been wondering for so long how do I flush it but now I do.
Glad to help, thanks!
Holds up box wrench and says "line wrench" lol. Regardless of what you call it, it worked. Good instructional video.
haha I know I'm sorry man. When i looked it up to make sure I got the wrong info in the internet :/ It does work on a clutch line though lol
Nice video, great detail step by step information and good video close ups, very informative. Do you know what the model # is for the Tanabe strut bar for 8 gen civic si coupe?
I really appreciate that!! it is TTB152F Sustec, it makes a difference for sure
finished flushing. bubbles finally stopped thx for the video. couple questions, first why move the reservoir unless to get jt higher? also how tf did u fit a torque wrench down there😂
Still love my 2008 civic si which I bought new ,thought not nearly as clean as this one .
That's awesome man. I would have loved to buy one brand new
ayoooo ive been needing this!! really appreciate the details in this vid!! great job :))
Right on bro I’m really glad it helped you out! And thank you buddy 🙏🙏🤙
Do you crack the bleeder valve open when you have it blocked off with the socket?
I've got an ep3 and clutch is just rite to the floor. Been refurbishing it but the clutch I've still not got to. So hopefully this does the trick be ause it's not been driven in 3 years!
yeah make the pedal travel longer
@@JasonMcMullen what about draining the reservoir and hydraulic line? Or do u think it could be the master cylinder needing changed?
Why did u put the tube inside the bottle half full with fluid?
it makes the tube not able to suck in any air, fluid displaces air so the tube will only get rid of air and not add any to the system
Great video bro , well explained with good footage!
Thanks Bro!! I really appreciate it
Thanks for the video man ! Super informative. My slave bleeder is shot though, can’t get that 3/16 on. Gonna try 5/16 ID
Thanks buddy! Hopefully that fits good
Really good information
Thank you for this awesome video!! ❤
wow thank you so much! 🙌
Awesome detailed video
Thanks a lot brother!
My 8th gen keeps losing pressure and it seems like car pedal only engages at a very high point.
i just installed brand new stage 3 competition clutch kit with flywheel, new Hybrid Racing CMC & line. I Bleed it, get some pressure and after few min of car sitting the pressure goes completely away.
If you are losing pressure, check for leaks and make sure fittings are tight, then if there are none then try to bleed some more. Are you losing any fluid in the reservoir?
Old comment, but did you ever swap the push rod? That would cause the high pedal engagement.
What was the purpose of unscrewing the bolt for reservoir bracket? I’m just wondering. Plus I did all these steps but months later the clutch line seems to get air into it all over again.
I just unscrewed it to make it easier to fill. Check to make sure that all the connections are tight, sometimes the connection going to the CMC in the engine bay can be loose (connection at the top of the CMC). as long at the connections are good, and there is constant fluid in the reservoir then it should keep air out. The CMC and slave cylinder can leak also, so check to see if there is any fluid anywhere
Never understood why you unbolt the reservoir
To make it easier to pour fluid in there, its not necessary
Amazing work man!
Thanks bro! 🙏
Changed my clutch master and slave in the summer, car turns on, but won’t go into any gears. You think this might solve the problem? Or should i replace them again all together?
Julian Hernandez yeah, first check for leaks and maybe bleed it if pedal pressure doesn’t feel right, then adjust. If none of that works it’s possible there is an issue with the CMC/Slave
Love this man! Appreciate it!
Kev Mango thanks bro! glad to help
what is the purpose of rubber cup inside the reservoir? and do you need to fill to max level?
I'm not sure about the rubber cup, I was wondering too. As long as there is fluid then air wont get into the system but its best for the level to be at max
Dude THANK YOU
🤙🤙🤙
Great video. I like how you explain different ways then show in detail! I've been struggling to get all the air out after replacing my CSC. I replaced it because it was leaking into the boot. Do you think putting the cap on the reservoir is necessary when bleeding? You think it'd be ok to remove the csc and compressing the rod by hand and having someone pump the pedal?
Corbin Knight thanks man I really appreciate it! Yeah I think bleeding with the cap open is fine I think the manual just says that to be safe. And you can bleed it outside the car as long as the lines you are using are connected (difficult to do with the solid metal lines that come stock but the flexible stainless steel aftermarket lines make it easy of course)
@@JasonMcMullen Yeah. I have a braided line. I'm just having a hard time getting very small bubbles out. I looked this morning at the csc and I dont have anything to wedge on the fork. So I wanted to make sure compressing the csc by hand with the csc out of the vehicle would help me bleed it better?
@@corbinknight9702 It might help to do it that way because you can push it in all the way and you can hold it up and let gravity assist also. With enough bleeding you should be able to get all the air out, it take a while sometimes. I've heard that taking the slave out and holding it with the nozzle facing up will help also but then when you put it back in the car the slave cylinder rod will push a bunch of fluid back to the master cylinder
@@JasonMcMullen alright. So once the CSC is out, Face the bleeder screw upward while its open(with clear hose & catch bottle attached). Have someone pump fluid through by pressing the clutch. Monitor the fluid level in the Reservoir? Or were you thinking of a different method?
Corbin Knight yeah that’s the one, you can also tap on the CSC with a wrench a little as you do it, I’ve heard that helps work out stuck bubbles also
Nice videos brother. Keep it up !
Beee Media Thank you bro! I really appreciate that 🙏
Hey bro you helped me out last time, just wanted to ask if you would know the reason why, I have an Acura rsx type s and the CMC keeps going out on me. Same problem (common problem) the triangular shape seals keep leaking. I’m installing the EM2 style one as it does not have the triangular shape and hoping this time I don’t gotta replace it again lmao. My car is completely stock btw
hey buddy sorry I just saw this. In general the CMC can start to leak when the CMC rod is stopping the pedal from coming up rather than the pedal stopper, so make sure thats not happening. Also over stroking the system can cause leaks from too much pressure, so make sure you dont feel too much pressure at the bottom of the pedal stroke (especially at hi RPM), and you can get rid of that by going to a little more threads showing, and the redoing the freeplay.
Hello Jason, why do you unbolt the clutch fluid reservoir off the firewall? What does this accomplish?
Just easier to get to and fill, a funnel doesn’t work well because it changes the level of the fluid and even just taking the cap on and off is difficult in the mounted position. It’s possible that lifting the reservoir up a little higher than normal can help the air bubbles in the master cylinder travel up too but I’m not sure about that
Just installed a hybrid racing master and slave but my pedal won’t go back up? And when I go to bleed it and open the slave there’s no fluid coming out? Anyone know what I need to do?
Did you have to remove the intake system to do this ? Where did you place the second bottle ..? Was the car jacked up or what was the exact method for placing bottles
I did this whole step, also changed new clutch master cylinder. I know I did everything correctly but when I go to turn on my car and go into gear my will not go into gear. What did I do wrong here? I know I did not miss a single step! Please help been at it for 3 days already D:
Sorry just saw this comment. Have you tried to adjust your clutch? I have a video on that as well, maybe it needs more travel to properly disengage the clutch. When you press the clutch in does it have good pressure? Is there any leaks in the lines? Have you had any transmission or clutch/flywheel issues?
Jason McMullen lol funny cause I sent this comment the day before I saw your video of yours about clutch adjustment and thats what helped me with my problem. You saved the day gave you sub for that brotha
@@2auscy lol oh awesome to hear bro! So glad it helped you out. And thank you so much for the sub! I really appreciate it. Just subbed back
Great video Jason, when you wedge the socket into place to depress the slave cylinder give me an idea of stroke travel, is it an inch or something less? I am just starting to do this process on a 2004 Civic Sir. The car has sat 7 years and as soon I depressed the clutch pedal had no resistance.
Thanks man! Yeah about and inch. It will probably take a ton of bleeding either way if its all air in the lines. Let me know if you have any other questions
Great vid! I have a 2008 Si. How to you gain access to the slave cylinder. Best, The Sailor.
Thanks buddy! You can get to the slave by taking off the plastic panel that covers the radiator (just a few clips). Then you can either try to reach it like that or take off the bulkhead for better access. Its step 11 here,
civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HTML/30/SNB6E30A14400049001KBAT00.HTML#i110
@@JasonMcMullen Thanks so much! You may want to comment on some videos I made on my SI and other things. Just type Lsailor1 in the UA-cam search bar. Best, The Sailor.
@@JasonMcMullen for the slave cylinder?? it's under the air filter area isn't it.
@@jayc4283 under the intake manifold/throttle body
My 8th gen refuses to go into gear when the engine is running, when the car's off gears all feel fine. I replaced the clutch last week, still having the same issue. K-tuned CMC and slave, pedal is adjusted for proper free play. Does it need to be bled?
Yeah make sure it is bled and there are no leaks. Is there significant pedal pressure yet? If you just replaced the Lines and CMC/slave it will take a long time to get all the fluid through the system, and the air out. Recheck the adjustment after bleeding also.
Did you fix it bleeding the clutch lines or was it a fluid level problem? I’m having the same issue and I also change the flywheel clutch and pressure plate
Oscar Pineda did you figure it out? I’m having the same issue now, really trying to avoid getting a new clutch
I’d love to hear an answer for you guys. I’m having the exact issue right now.
Sameeeeee
Hey after bleeding the clutch fluid more than 10x, it kept coming out brown. Even after switching out the clear tubing since the first one had dirty oil in. Do you know what can cause this?
Its probably gunk in your clutch master cylinder, sometimes its like that and the new fluid will wash away a little bit at a time. It might be ok
@@JasonMcMullen so you think I should drive it for a little bit and then bleed it again just to see if the fluid is still brown?
@@JasonMcMullen thanks by the way!
So pretty much same method as bleeding brakes at the calipers?
Hey man. Question. If i wedge something between fork and my battery. Will my battery be safe? I don't wanna press in the clutch and then the fork pushes the item damaging the battery. Is that step necessary or optional?
The battery should be fine if you do it just once. You can put a small pad or something if you are concerned. Its not required, but sometimes air can get trapped in the system so maximizing the extension and pressure helps get air out. Its specified in the manual to wedge something between the fork and the chassis
@@JasonMcMullen thank you for the response!!
Is the clutch fork pressed firmly agains the slave cilinder when the clutch pedal is out? or is there play? if so, how much play?
the rod from the slave cylinder will always be in contact with the fork but it shouldn't be putting significant pressure on it (with the pedal up)
I tried bleeding after my pedal got softer . I drive alot so I wanted to get it bled before failure. I get no pressure with the first process but when I wedge the slave then pump it , the pedal feels stiff with the pumping method . After I open the slave and close it the pedal has no pressure again .
how is the fluid in the reservoir? Most likely there is still air in the lines
@@JasonMcMullen it’s slowly goes down with the process .
@@JasonMcMullen how many times should I do the process?
@@joshuavazquez7460 It does take a while but its also possible that there is a leak or a problem with the master/slave cylinder. Check for leaks first and the just bleed. Air could be getting in somehow so maybe you can see where
@@JasonMcMullen Can I just open the slave with a clear hose attached to the nipple with a bottle at the end and gravity bleed it ?
Can air in the system cause the clutch to stick while shifting? Sometimes my rpms dont drop while shifting, which means the clutch is not dis engaging , you think bleeding might fix my issue?
Appreciate your response
its possible, but it could also be an issue that fixed by adjusting the clutch. Check out my video on that. Also tuning can have an effect on rev hang as well
@@JasonMcMullen appreciate it! Will update after bleeding the clutch
Right..so what do I do if I have no pressure on the pedal…like it doesn’t come back
you can lift up the pedal and then keep bleeding, hopefully you got it going
I’m going to try this on my 09 civic lx sedan my problem is I can’t shift into any gears and clutch pedal is all the way floored no pressure... any advice ? Could it be I need a new clutch? It worked fine last night
Check for any loose connections or leaks, then try to bleed it. Always make sure there is fluid in the reservoir so that air doesn't get inside the lines
@@JasonMcMullen okay did all that replaced the slave cylinder it was leaking and line connected to that was clogged I unclogged it and still same problem .. and I’m pumping slave cylinder to try to bleed but no fluid is pumping to it
@@kevingarnet6822 is the fluid in the reservoir going down at all?
@@kevingarnet6822 you can try to gravity bleed, just open the bleeder valve and keep filling the reservoir without pumping the clutch pedal. Once you get some fluid to come out of the bleeder valve then close it and bleed it with the pumping method (to get any trapped air bubbles out)
@@kevingarnet6822 if the entire lines have air (because the slave was replaced) then it will take a while (lot of pumping) to get the fluid from the master to the slave
Added clutch fluid to my rsx, pumped the pedal, opened the valve, and now I have zero pressure at the pedal and it’s barely pulling any fluid from the reservoir. I tried to sedge something behind the fork but I don’t get any pressure unless I crack the valve and force the fork into the smc. What the heck did I do wrong?
Did you make sure to leave the clutch depressed after pumping it?
@@patrickbantugan9319 turns out the master went bad. the pressure broke the components inside the master. seals were good but the spring broke. it was due. its almost 15 years old.
Does this work for an FG4 as well? Replaced my slave then my damn cmc went out right after no leaks but my clutch pedal hisses when i depress it
yeah it should work, lmk if you have any questions
@@JasonMcMulleni got everything ready to bleed fluid in the reservoir bleeder closed i started pumping but zero pressure the cmc isn’t even sucking fluid from the reservoir I’m not sure why it’s not building pressure or do i just have to keep pumping
@@marqxxgaming1817 keep pumping it might take some time, but you should see fluid start to move eventually as long as the CMC is working. You can try to gravity bleed until fluid starts to move a little. But then after gravity bleeding, bleed it the right was to get all the air out. you can just crack the bleeder on the slave as long as you have a tube submerged in brake fluid
@@JasonMcMullen tried unbolting the cmc to better help w the gravity bleed but still nothing double checked my connections and the cmc does have suction no leaks at all do i leave the reservoir cap open for the gravity bleed ?
I swapped out to a SS line and have never worked with a clutch pedal that is on the floor. I have used your technique before, but I can't even seem to get the pedal to pump. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks.
Marc Proudfoot you will have to grab it off the floor with your hand a bunch of times, but you can try to gravity bleed for an hour then try the pumping. That might help get fluid into the new lines, then pump to get the smaller bubbles out
@@JasonMcMullen, thanks a million. I am back to your initial process. I am starting to get fluid, as I crack the nut after pumping. The pedal is still not getting stiff but it seems a little firmer (hopeful thinking).
Should I try to pressurize the system with the Clutch Fork AFTER I have sufficient pressure or should I try it now? I don't want to mess up the process that I have started. Thanks, again.
Marc Proudfoot you can try the clutch fork trick but it should get progressively stiffer with the more fluid you move through it. Make sure the connections on the lines are tight too (no air leaks) and you should be able to get it all good! Hope it works out
@@JasonMcMullen, I appreciate it. It is slowly getting stiffer but not looking like where you were at in the video or in my memory of doing this before. This is the FIRST complete flush for me, so I have heard it takes time.😊
Marc Proudfoot yeah doing a complete flush does take long, I’ve had to go through it a few times haha. You’ll get it 🤙
. My clutch gave out on me Monday where I couldn’t go into gear and it sank to the bottom. I thouggt okay I’ll replace the master and slave cylinder. Today I’m driving and my car won’t go into 1st until I try about 4 times. then shifting into other gears feels weird. I can’t shift into a gear unless it’s about 3-4K or it would randomly let me. I’m not a mechanic lol so I have no idea what to do the car right now turns on and driveable but soemtjmee also when I put into reverse I can’t take it out of reverse so I’m not sure what to dO.
if It sank to the bottom then there must be a leak or a faulty slave or master. Check for a spot where its wet. Try to bleed the system for a while. If that doesn't work then its probably the slave or master cylinder
Same issue… when the pedal is sunk to the bottom and has no pressure…. Do I replace the cmc and slave first and then bleed?
Any videos of clutch delay valve delete?
Sorry not yet
Been trying to bleed my system but my pedal is stay completely dead like it’s not building pressure
check for leaks or blockage. Have you ever had issues with the clutch in the past?
@@JasonMcMullen no issues in the past I can get the pressure to build slightly but not enough to actually make the clutch work
@@MrSmokeingood It sounds like there is a leak somewhere or the master cylinder is having issues. Sometimes it takes a while but eventually you should get pressure to build if everything is working correctly. Maybe it would help to adjust the clutch too but you need to have some pressure either way
Why don't get the ones without the delay valve ?
k20z3allmotor makes OEM style without the delay valve but they are expensive. The EM1 CMC has no delay valve but the pedal is shorter. This adjustment helps people with the stock CMC and the EM1 CMC
where do you get a clear tube like that?
hardware store
works on civic sedan 1.8?
should work
Ok, thank you!!
My car will not go into gear with the car on. Clutch peddle pressure is barely there with a lot of play. Clutch engages super low. Adjusted pedal still same exact thing. Idk what the next move is
If you don’t have good pressure I would check for leaks, clogs, and bleed it some more. Hopefully that will help, let me know. Some people have a clutch master cylinder that go bad also
check pedal bracket for cracks.
I put the socket like done so and it popped my cmc🥲 the gasket
is the cmc old or new? I've never heard of that, maybe the gasket was bad. The manual says to do it
is th 3/16th pipe diameter inside or outside??
internal diameter
It just gets stuck when I release pressure
I wish someone would make a video a bit more simple my clutch isn’t working after I installed a new cmc it stays stuck.
hey buddy sorry to hear you are having problems. Does the clutch pedal have good pressure yet?
Did you sort this. I'll seeing so many have problems after attempting the process
I did this and my clutch stays on the floor
Are there any leaks? If there are no leaks, keep bleeding until the pedal has pressure, it might take a while
Did you sort this. I'll seeing so many have problems after attempting the process
How were able to push the clutch down with the wedge on the slave cylinder? I was barely able to push the clutch down with the wedge.
How can I get the clutch fork to pull the throw out bearing further away? It makes a chirping noise but when I slightly press the slave cylinder, then goes away
My 2017 model Honda BR-V does not have a clutch reservoir and the manual says that the brake fluid and clutch fluid are the same. Does this mean that doing a brake flush/bleed would replace the clutch fluid as well?
Sushil K Pingua. I’m not sure about the BR-V but I’m guessing that even if they share the same reservoir there is probably still separate lines going to the brake and clutch so there could be air in the lines going to the clutch. Make sure to always keep some fluid in the reservoir when bleeding or air will get into the lines