That engine bay!!! Someday my 89' 22RE's bay will look like that!! Thanks for showing us this. Owned it for the last 22 years and love my truck more than my new to me last year 02' Taco! Its okay but not even close to Old Blue. 1989 Toyota 4X4 Xcab Deluxe. 540k on original motor. I've put the last 400k on it and still runs perfectly! Cheers!!!
I just received my radiator exactly like yours at Champions I attached a aluminum diamond sheet metal to hold the electric fan with the overflow container from champion also.
@@Daniel_Antonio_Arellano782 Yes, that's correct for setting the ignition / spark timing. But there is also camshaft valve timing. That might be what I was talking about in the video.
I have a '85 Toyota with 22R factory carb. with manual trans. Takes 1hr or less to set valves. The engine is warm. as per. Shop Manual. I'm a 70yr old White guy. I'm including a Video of the rnotor startng cold so you can judge for yourself.
Aloha Ray, very instructional video Mahalo for that. However, I recently did a top half rebuild and after putting everything back together I noticed that I am on TDC but I may be off a tooth like you mentioned. Those little divots on the sprocket are more between 12 & 1 o clock. Is there a video that you can refer me to or a link I can down load to realign without taking everything apart? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Me and my boy been part time on this build for almost a year and it would crush him and me if we had to open up everything again. Mahalo again from Hawai'i
Sounds like you might be off by 1 tooth. Here's a video showing how it should look when the motor is at TDC ua-cam.com/video/96xb0oWA3fQ/v-deo.html If you are off, you can put the motor at exactly TDC and then you can pull everything off the front of the camshaft and slip the gear 1 tooth; you just need to make sure to keep the timing chain taut against the guides using like a little block of wood or something. If you do that, you can reposition the cam gear without too much trouble. Normally the dowel pin in the cam should be straight up and down when the motor is at TDC. Hope that helps!
I usually do it when the motor is still warm, but not super hot to where it's hard to work. Maybe like 30 minutes after shutting off the motor. I run .012 on the exhaust and .008 on the intake.
We were actually just discussing this on another video yesterday and I listed a lot of the parts. Check the comments on the last couple of videos and if you can't find it, I can locate it or give you a run down. The hold down is just a strap and then the rubber thing which holds the tool wrap thing behind the seat
rodney cassidy The header is made by LC Engineering - it's their ceramic coated SS one which is CA smog legal and has the EO # stamped on it. Then I just fabricated the rest myself from 2.25" stainless tubing from Stainless Bros. The slip fittings are from Stainless Bros as well and the clamps are W5 316 SS Mikalor clamps. The catalytic converter is the CA legal one from Magnaflow and then there is a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator behind that and a larger Vibrant ultra quiet resonator at the end. The 45 and 60 degree mandrel bends also came from Vibrant (you can buy them via amazon). I just started from the front and cut and fit everything using the slip fittings welded into the tubing, etc. I fabricated my own hangers from 3/8 SS rods and just heated them up and bent them and then TIG welded the tips on and forged them into shape with a hammer. I TIG welded all the joints with 308 rod. That's about it; let me know if you have any specific questions on it. The exhaust turned out pretty nice and seems to have a pretty good balance between sound and flow. Oh and then I also had to weld in a bung for the downstream O2 sensor. The LCE pipe off the collector has a factory style 2 bolt flange for the upstream O2 sensor. And then I also welded in a separate O2 bung for the AEM wideband O2 gauge, which has proven to be invaluable as far as monitoring if the motor is running correctly and helps give a picture into how the truck's ECU is functioning as far as fuel mapping, etc.
rodney cassidy Thanks a lot man, I really appreciate it. The little truck is a lot of work, but part of this project was to learn all about the Toyota pickup and the 22RE motor. I'm planning on keeping this little truck for a long, long time. The exhaust project was a lot of work for sure haha :-)
@@Samson-EC Just put a small amount around the bottom where it touches the aluminum of the cylinder head - do not put any sealant on the top part, where the valve cover gasket touches.
Thanks! Champion cooling... I have a video on my channel about it also. www.championcooling.com/ - nice radiator, but the one I have leaks a tiny bit and it's super annoying. They did warranty it, but I've yet to install the new one. Several other people have commented that theirs leaked as well. Not sure I would use them again, but if you get one that doesn't leak, it's super nice. I think maybe their welds are not perfect inside or something but who knows for sure.
Just a lot of cleaning and fine detail work. For the aluminum stuff, I use a cleaner called "Barkeepers Friend", which has a slight acid in it. It's really good for cleaning aluminum stuff. You can also buy citric acid powder off amazon and create your own acid bath in the kitchen sink. I also use old bamboo wooden chopsticks to scale and clean parts (also old tooth brushes). With the chopsticks, just sharpen them w/ a pocket knife or use a bench grinder to grind them into a tip or wedge and then go to work. I also use a real good organic cleaner as well as just gasoline in a spray bottle with a green scrubber scotch bright pad and microfiber rags. It's just a lot of individual cleaning of parts and attention to detail. There's no magic in anything.. just a lot of elbow grease and using that BarKeepers friend cleaner (also BonAmi is a bit less acidic when it comes to cleaning parts which have that gold factory coating - BarKeepers will eat that coating right off). EvapoRust is also super handy to soaking parts over night to remove rust. I've basically cleaned the entire truck with a can of gas and a rag haha :-D
@@peazy216 I have some good videos which cover the 22RE vacuum lines and how everything operates. It takes some time to get up to speed on the motor and understand what is happening for sure. When I first bought my truck, I didn't know anything specific to the 22RE myself, so it was a little bit of a learning curve. Maybe I should do a video to sort of give a broad overview. Anyway, on the vacuum lines, some of them can be scaled back a little, depending on what all you need to run. For example, the vacuum line which goes to the regulator on the fuel rail loops through a VSV (vacuum switching valve) that is bolted to the valve cover. However, that pressure regulator basically works in time with engine vacuum, so you can just ditch the VSV and run a hose directly if you want. I also threw away my P/S, so the VSV that works with that went as well. The remaining two I needed (the air suction (AS) and the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) systems have VSV's, but I just moved them off to the fender to clean things up. As far as wiring, I removed almost the entire wiring harness and taught myself what each wire did and took it all apart and cleaned it and re-soldered / rebuilt a lot of the connections. I had some electrical issues I had to trace down and just wanted to clean the harness up and re-insulate some of it in high heat rubberized fiberglass sleeves, etc. I also installed a higher output 140A alternator, so I had to make larger harnesses for that, which required running larger wires and things. It's just one of those things where once you dig into everything, it helps you learn and clean things up, etc. If you are going to be doing any extensive electrical work, you might want to invest in the electrical manual from Toyota (as well as the originally factory shop manuals). All of those really help when you start working on the motor, etc. The electrical manual (which is featured in a couple of my other videos) will show you what's what right down to the individual pin numbers inside each electrical connector; it's really a handy manual to have around.
Hi Ray. I did a valve adjustment finally and changed out my temp guage sensor at same time. Now my guage is reading hot and almost into red. Is there any chance if I screwed up the valve adjustment that that would cause over heating? I chkd the temp sensor, connecting wire and temp guage and they chkd out fine. I am at a loss right now. Burped cooling system also. I am just wondering if I should redo the valve adjustment if that can cause overhearing. Hope to hear your opinion..thks...jc
Did you use a Denso or Toyota sending unit? I'm not a big fan of the ones from china that are all over the place. I think I'd start by swapping back in the old sending unit maybe. Valve lash error can affect temp a little, but probably not drastically enough to register on the gauge. You would have to be pretty far off the map for that to matter. My best is the sending unit is bad, especially if it's an Amazon special or something. If your old sending unit was working, just clean it up on a wire wheel and throw it back in.. they usually go forever.
@ray5961 Hi Ray, thks very much for getting back to me. I did put old sensor back ( new one was Denso) Here is my test for the day: First thing I did was swap the new temp guage sensor with the old one. Noticed that the connector did not fit as snug on the new as it did on the old. A little difference on how the terminals at the top had a small different design. Next, opened up radiator cap and placed thermometer inside so I could track temp. Coolant at cold was 88 degrees. Next, start engine and start clock. At 8min I see bubbles coming from radiator. Uh oh.. Guage is below half way point now. The bubbles keep percolating out. Temp guage is above half way at this point. Thermostat opens up around 8 min 40 sec. At around 10 minutes coolant is now at 170 degrees. Guage looks good. At 11min 30 sec temp is now 182 degrees. Guage is below half way. Shutdown engine. So....was it the air in the system or the temp sensor or a combination? Tomorrow I hope to get a rad and cap pressure test kit from oreillys. Once I chk and it looks good. I will test again with radiator cap on this time. Not sure if I will put new sensor back on for right now. If guage looks good, will go for test drive
@@Samson-EC Do you have one of these kits to purge air? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I40ZQWE - if not, you probably aren't actually purging all the air. It's next to impossible to do without that setup. I'd test the sending unit in a pot with water on the stove but it sounds like maybe you have a vapor lock which is causing the cylinder head to over heat maybe. Try this... remove the feed line behind the thermostat housing (which runs over to the IAC valve stuff) and lift that up in the air, then try filling the radiator up until water/coolant comes out of that line. That will help purge the air out from the cylinder head ceiling if you don't have that funnel kit handy. Even with it, that's how I get the air out of the cylinder head area for sure. Also take the heater core feed line off and stuck a funnel on there and back fill from there works great. Just filling the system through the radiator tends to be problematic in my experience. I think in one of my recent videos I show the basic routine I use. I think it's the "we have ignition one" about 1/2 way in.
@ray5961 Hi Ray , you betcha. I have a kit and used it. Nothing bubbled up after 10 minutes and guage was going to red. Then today I was shocked to see bubbles, ie "uh oh". Thanks for your input...Jim
U r not correct,u have timing marks on the crank gear,on the cam gear,and on the rocker assembly...u align these!!! If u go by the dowel u r gonna be 1 tooth off everytime
Thanks for the info on that. I'll double check things when I assemble the motor. I was actually going to time the cam using a dial indicator against a degree wheels on the nose of the crank to be certain the valve lift at .050" matches what I'm aiming for here.
Thanks for the explanation. Another way to find TDC on #1 is to line up timing mark AND see if distributor rotor is pointing to #1 spark wire
That engine bay!!! Someday my 89' 22RE's bay will look like that!! Thanks for showing us this. Owned it for the last 22 years and love my truck more than my new to me last year 02' Taco! Its okay but not even close to Old Blue. 1989 Toyota 4X4 Xcab Deluxe. 540k on original motor. I've put the last 400k on it and still runs perfectly! Cheers!!!
I hear ya, we sold our 2015 highlander recently; great SUV but I love driving my 1990 2WD just as much if not more! :-)
Subbed!
Thank you very much for taking the time for this video, awesome job.
I just received my radiator exactly like yours at Champions I attached a aluminum diamond sheet metal to hold the electric fan with the overflow container from champion also.
Glenn Gamboa That's great!
your videos have the most perfect explanations. thank you! I knew most of the material but still learned a thing or two. awesome content
Thanks man, I really appreciate it :-)
I thought the timing was 5 degrees before TDC. And you have to short the T1 to E1 on the little gadget by the relay box. Before timing it.
@@Daniel_Antonio_Arellano782 Yes, that's correct for setting the ignition / spark timing. But there is also camshaft valve timing. That might be what I was talking about in the video.
Cool
I have a '85 Toyota with 22R factory carb. with manual trans. Takes 1hr or less to set valves. The engine is warm. as per. Shop Manual. I'm a 70yr old White guy. I'm including a Video of the rnotor startng cold so you can judge for yourself.
Great video !
Aloha Ray, very instructional video Mahalo for that. However, I recently did a top half rebuild and after putting everything back together I noticed that I am on TDC but I may be off a tooth like you mentioned. Those little divots on the sprocket are more between 12 & 1 o clock. Is there a video that you can refer me to or a link I can down load to realign without taking everything apart? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Me and my boy been part time on this build for almost a year and it would crush him and me if we had to open up everything again. Mahalo again from Hawai'i
Sounds like you might be off by 1 tooth. Here's a video showing how it should look when the motor is at TDC ua-cam.com/video/96xb0oWA3fQ/v-deo.html
If you are off, you can put the motor at exactly TDC and then you can pull everything off the front of the camshaft and slip the gear 1 tooth; you just need to make sure to keep the timing chain taut against the guides using like a little block of wood or something. If you do that, you can reposition the cam gear without too much trouble. Normally the dowel pin in the cam should be straight up and down when the motor is at TDC. Hope that helps!
@@ray5961 Yes it does braddah, I will try that first thing in the morning and give you an update. Appreciate your reply. Mahalo!
@@alekokipuou1433 good luck! let me know how it goes. Make sure to re-time the distributor as well.
Hi Ray. On the valve adjustment that is suppose to be done hit. How long do you wait for engine to cool down to start the adjustment? Thks..jc
I usually do it when the motor is still warm, but not super hot to where it's hard to work. Maybe like 30 minutes after shutting off the motor. I run .012 on the exhaust and .008 on the intake.
@@ray5961 Thks Ray..jc
Hello Ray! Can you describe your battery/cable/hold down setup for us? That is one clean look! Thanks very much!
We were actually just discussing this on another video yesterday and I listed a lot of the parts. Check the comments on the last couple of videos and if you can't find it, I can locate it or give you a run down. The hold down is just a strap and then the rubber thing which holds the tool wrap thing behind the seat
@@ray5961 Thanks Ray, much appreciated!
Where did you get your exhaust from?
rodney cassidy The header is made by LC Engineering - it's their ceramic coated SS one which is CA smog legal and has the EO # stamped on it. Then I just fabricated the rest myself from 2.25" stainless tubing from Stainless Bros. The slip fittings are from Stainless Bros as well and the clamps are W5 316 SS Mikalor clamps. The catalytic converter is the CA legal one from Magnaflow and then there is a Vibrant ultra quiet resonator behind that and a larger Vibrant ultra quiet resonator at the end. The 45 and 60 degree mandrel bends also came from Vibrant (you can buy them via amazon). I just started from the front and cut and fit everything using the slip fittings welded into the tubing, etc. I fabricated my own hangers from 3/8 SS rods and just heated them up and bent them and then TIG welded the tips on and forged them into shape with a hammer. I TIG welded all the joints with 308 rod. That's about it; let me know if you have any specific questions on it. The exhaust turned out pretty nice and seems to have a pretty good balance between sound and flow. Oh and then I also had to weld in a bung for the downstream O2 sensor. The LCE pipe off the collector has a factory style 2 bolt flange for the upstream O2 sensor. And then I also welded in a separate O2 bung for the AEM wideband O2 gauge, which has proven to be invaluable as far as monitoring if the motor is running correctly and helps give a picture into how the truck's ECU is functioning as far as fuel mapping, etc.
@@ray5961 you did a hell of a job on it. More money than I want to spend on my little beater. Thanks
rodney cassidy Thanks a lot man, I really appreciate it. The little truck is a lot of work, but part of this project was to learn all about the Toyota pickup and the 22RE motor. I'm planning on keeping this little truck for a long, long time. The exhaust project was a lot of work for sure haha :-)
How did you install the half moons Ray? Thks...jc
RTV ultra black
@@ray5961 Does it go on bottom of moon only or on top where it meets rubber seal? jc
@@Samson-EC Just put a small amount around the bottom where it touches the aluminum of the cylinder head - do not put any sealant on the top part, where the valve cover gasket touches.
@@ray5961 Thks Ray...jc
@@Samson-EC Yeah, no sweat.
That is so unrealistically clean
Great job man
Radiator name?
Thanks! Champion cooling... I have a video on my channel about it also. www.championcooling.com/ - nice radiator, but the one I have leaks a tiny bit and it's super annoying. They did warranty it, but I've yet to install the new one. Several other people have commented that theirs leaked as well. Not sure I would use them again, but if you get one that doesn't leak, it's super nice. I think maybe their welds are not perfect inside or something but who knows for sure.
how do you get your engine so clean man?
Just a lot of cleaning and fine detail work. For the aluminum stuff, I use a cleaner called "Barkeepers Friend", which has a slight acid in it. It's really good for cleaning aluminum stuff. You can also buy citric acid powder off amazon and create your own acid bath in the kitchen sink. I also use old bamboo wooden chopsticks to scale and clean parts (also old tooth brushes). With the chopsticks, just sharpen them w/ a pocket knife or use a bench grinder to grind them into a tip or wedge and then go to work. I also use a real good organic cleaner as well as just gasoline in a spray bottle with a green scrubber scotch bright pad and microfiber rags. It's just a lot of individual cleaning of parts and attention to detail. There's no magic in anything.. just a lot of elbow grease and using that BarKeepers friend cleaner (also BonAmi is a bit less acidic when it comes to cleaning parts which have that gold factory coating - BarKeepers will eat that coating right off). EvapoRust is also super handy to soaking parts over night to remove rust. I've basically cleaned the entire truck with a can of gas and a rag haha :-D
@@ray5961 how did you about doing your wiring and vac lines. I don’t have much exp with wiring and am still learning about the 22re in general
@@peazy216 I have some good videos which cover the 22RE vacuum lines and how everything operates. It takes some time to get up to speed on the motor and understand what is happening for sure. When I first bought my truck, I didn't know anything specific to the 22RE myself, so it was a little bit of a learning curve. Maybe I should do a video to sort of give a broad overview. Anyway, on the vacuum lines, some of them can be scaled back a little, depending on what all you need to run. For example, the vacuum line which goes to the regulator on the fuel rail loops through a VSV (vacuum switching valve) that is bolted to the valve cover. However, that pressure regulator basically works in time with engine vacuum, so you can just ditch the VSV and run a hose directly if you want. I also threw away my P/S, so the VSV that works with that went as well. The remaining two I needed (the air suction (AS) and the Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) systems have VSV's, but I just moved them off to the fender to clean things up. As far as wiring, I removed almost the entire wiring harness and taught myself what each wire did and took it all apart and cleaned it and re-soldered / rebuilt a lot of the connections. I had some electrical issues I had to trace down and just wanted to clean the harness up and re-insulate some of it in high heat rubberized fiberglass sleeves, etc. I also installed a higher output 140A alternator, so I had to make larger harnesses for that, which required running larger wires and things. It's just one of those things where once you dig into everything, it helps you learn and clean things up, etc. If you are going to be doing any extensive electrical work, you might want to invest in the electrical manual from Toyota (as well as the originally factory shop manuals). All of those really help when you start working on the motor, etc. The electrical manual (which is featured in a couple of my other videos) will show you what's what right down to the individual pin numbers inside each electrical connector; it's really a handy manual to have around.
Hi Ray. I did a valve adjustment finally and changed out my temp guage sensor at same time. Now my guage is reading hot and almost into red. Is there any chance if I screwed up the valve adjustment that that would cause over heating? I chkd the temp sensor, connecting wire and temp guage and they chkd out fine. I am at a loss right now. Burped cooling system also. I am just wondering if I should redo the valve adjustment if that can cause overhearing. Hope to hear your opinion..thks...jc
Did you use a Denso or Toyota sending unit? I'm not a big fan of the ones from china that are all over the place. I think I'd start by swapping back in the old sending unit maybe. Valve lash error can affect temp a little, but probably not drastically enough to register on the gauge. You would have to be pretty far off the map for that to matter. My best is the sending unit is bad, especially if it's an Amazon special or something. If your old sending unit was working, just clean it up on a wire wheel and throw it back in.. they usually go forever.
@ray5961 Hi Ray, thks very much for getting back to me. I did put old sensor back ( new one was Denso) Here is my test for the day:
First thing I did was swap the new temp guage sensor with the old one. Noticed that the connector did not fit as snug on the new as it did on the old. A little difference on how the terminals at the top had a small different design.
Next, opened up radiator cap and placed thermometer inside so I could track temp.
Coolant at cold was 88 degrees.
Next, start engine and start clock.
At 8min I see bubbles coming from radiator. Uh oh.. Guage is below half way point now. The bubbles keep percolating out.
Temp guage is above half way at this point.
Thermostat opens up around 8 min 40 sec. At around 10 minutes coolant is now at 170 degrees. Guage looks good. At 11min 30 sec temp is now 182 degrees. Guage is below half way. Shutdown engine.
So....was it the air in the system or the temp sensor or a combination?
Tomorrow I hope to get a rad and cap pressure test kit from oreillys. Once I chk and it looks good. I will test again with radiator cap on this time. Not sure if I will put new sensor back on for right now.
If guage looks good, will go for test drive
@@Samson-EC Do you have one of these kits to purge air? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I40ZQWE - if not, you probably aren't actually purging all the air. It's next to impossible to do without that setup. I'd test the sending unit in a pot with water on the stove but it sounds like maybe you have a vapor lock which is causing the cylinder head to over heat maybe. Try this... remove the feed line behind the thermostat housing (which runs over to the IAC valve stuff) and lift that up in the air, then try filling the radiator up until water/coolant comes out of that line. That will help purge the air out from the cylinder head ceiling if you don't have that funnel kit handy. Even with it, that's how I get the air out of the cylinder head area for sure. Also take the heater core feed line off and stuck a funnel on there and back fill from there works great. Just filling the system through the radiator tends to be problematic in my experience. I think in one of my recent videos I show the basic routine I use. I think it's the "we have ignition one" about 1/2 way in.
@ray5961 Hi Ray , you betcha. I have a kit and used it. Nothing bubbled up after 10 minutes and guage was going to red. Then today I was shocked to see bubbles, ie "uh oh". Thanks for your input...Jim
@ray5961 I tested the new and old unit. Old with pot of water and new on the car. Since it is now off the car I will test tomorrow with pot
U r not correct,u have timing marks on the crank gear,on the cam gear,and on the rocker assembly...u align these!!! If u go by the dowel u r gonna be 1 tooth off everytime
Thanks for the info on that. I'll double check things when I assemble the motor. I was actually going to time the cam using a dial indicator against a degree wheels on the nose of the crank to be certain the valve lift at .050" matches what I'm aiming for here.