89-95 Toyota Pickup 22RE AFM IAC valve air suction idle unstable dropping when warm 500 RPM's
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- Опубліковано 1 кві 2021
- FORGOT TO MENTION IN THE VIDEO: I also changed the initial timing to 7.5 degrees BTDC and set the idle to 1000 RPM - this helps quite a bit. I was running the factory recommended 5 degrees BTDC, but 7.5-8 degrees sure seems to work a lot better. I believe the ECU limits total advance anyway, so I shouldn't make a heck of a lot of difference.
Anyway, this video covers some of the recent adjustments I've made to the truck, which seems to have helped it run a bit more smoothly and also which have helped resolve some of the idle issues around town when the truck is running a bit on the cooler side. Hope you enjoy the video, thanks for watching! - Авто та транспорт
FORGOT TO MENTION IN THE VIDEO: I also changed the initial timing to 7.5 degrees BTDC (w/ TE & E1 shorted) and set the idle to 1000 RPM - this helps quite a bit. I was running the factory recommended 5 degrees BTDC, but 7.5-8 degrees sure seems to work a lot better. I believe the ECU limits total advance anyway, so I shouldn't make a heck of a lot of difference.
Great video!!! Great tutorial Ray! These little engines are great!
Man, your truck looks so clean under the hood. Thanks for the good content.
Thanks man, appreciate that.
I love the cardboard fabrication for the bumper design, awesome idea.
thanks!
Dude! I've been dealing with the same issue for years! Constantly screwing around with the air flow potentiometer and idle screw. Gonna give it a go today.
Also, I sometimes will run crank case breather tubes into a bottle out of sight.
Yeah, never a dull moment trying to get a toyota pickup to idle smoothly haha :)
Nice video! I think that if you paint the side marker/turn signal light assembly black to match your grill, you would harvest more power and get more gas mileage, plus it would look so much better. Win-Win!
BTW... Pesky Prius...LOL
Hurry up and finish that F8! haha :)
BTW you are a talented dude, very impressive.
If your idle is jumping around once warmed up. Check that there is no blockage in the coolant lines to the intake. . There is a thermostat in there . Mine was a little crusty and not flowing properly. Once I cleaned it out it ran perfect again
Yes definitely important - I have several videos about that actually. The coolant flow through the IAC valve is definitely something to make sure is working correctly :)
Question? I need to get a mass flow sensor for my 1990 Toyota , do I need to make adjustments or just plug and play ?
Should be plug and play - that's how mine was
Hey man I just got a pickup with a 22re. And it sometimes randomly pops at like 1k rpm, buts fine at idle (800 rpm). It also pops on deceleration. I tried tuning it richer and leaner, but it still popped lean and rich, a little worse when lean. Is this probably something with the fuel system? (Pump, filter, injectors)?
Sounds like you probably have an air leak in the exhaust system some place. I'd check the air suction system and also check the exhaust system front to rear to see if there are any air gaps allowing air in.
Hey when you talk about going at the store after engine has reached operating temperature did you have the hot soak issue ? Instead of bloking the IACV why not delete the VSV system ?
No hot soaking issue, no. The IAC valve isn't controlled by a VSV.
Ay Ray Nada. Big fan of your videos. I recently purchased an aftermarket afm online and installed it. After a few drives CEL code 25 came on saying it was too lean. Should I adjust my afm or screw in the afm bypass screw more or is it something else?
Thanks man! The bypass screw doesn't add too much (it's more of an idle trim screw than anything else). Make sure the door swings free in there. Also confirm there are no vacuum leaks or cracks in the rubber elbow (those crack all the time and it's hard to see the crack sometimes; you can pickup a brand new one on amazon cheap though). But to answer your question, if nothing else has changed (except installing the AFM) you can try adjusting it 2-4 clicks richer and see what happens. Also, I'd try resetting the ECU fuel trim tables by pulling the 15A EFI fuse for 5 or 10 minutes; this will clear the old fuel map. I'd would definitely start by seeing what vacuum the motor is pulling at idle.
@@ray5961 I just reset the fuel trim and drove around and she just cleared right up. I swear it runs better too. These 22res just fix themselves! I think my old AFM was fucked from going underwater on a trail in Moab (the water was up to the top of my engine). Search up “you cannot kill the 22re Reddit” if you want to see us starting that engine afterwards. So I think it just got use to running rich, then switching out the AFM made it think it was too lean. Anyways she’s running like a clock now
@@singamajigy That's awesome. I'll search for that video also.
Could you tell me where you sourced the rubber boot between the AFM and the air tube?
It's stock and was on the truck when I bought it. I did replace the elbow and found it on Amazon. You might be able to find it online through Toyota parts places like Mc George - that's the place I use to buy all my factory replacement parts usually toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
What causes high idle upon start up? I know the cold start injector is for cold weather purposes. But mine does it regardless at 60 degrees. Thanks!
The high idle stuff is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) - I have some videos which explain it on the channel but basically engine coolant (once it heats up) causes the valve to shut down and lower the idle. If the idle stays high, check the small hoses running to and from the IAC valve (just under the throttle body) and see if both hoses are heating up. If not, there could be a coolant blockage some place in there, which is preventing normal operation.
Excellent rebuild. Just outstanding. Where did you get all your vacuum hoses from?
Mostly from Napa Auto. Just their rubber vacuum hoses in the back. For the smaller hoses that run to all the VSV's and smaller fittings, I just bought a roll of it directly from Amazon here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KNVPE/
@@ray5961 Thanks Ray! Appreciate the help 👊🏽.
Hey ray i have a 93' 22re pickup and ive got a high idle any help on this issue wood be great
Hard to say.. check the door inside the AFM to make sure it's not sticking. Also check the coolant temp sending to make sure it's not defective. Air leaking around the throttle shafts or idle screw can also do it. What RPM's are you seeing? The other thing is the idle air control coolant lines could be blocked.. check those with your hand (upper and lower) and make sure they are flowing warm coolant once the motor is all up to temp. I have some videos on the IAC valve on my channel.
Man I wish I could get a diagram from you on what you blocked off and how you ran all your hoses on your motor I could use the help thanks
Watch my other video where I explain all the systems. Basically I disconnected the vacuum to the EGR and AS systems and then bypassed the fuel pressure VSV and ran that hose directly.
Where did you get the black grill ?? Looks great
I bought mine a few years ago off eBay for $55 delivered. If you search Google for exactly this, "Toyota Pickup 2WD matt black grill TO1200127" then you should find plenty.
Where did you grab the silver oil cap?
LC engineering sells them - super nice.
where did you get your red hoses and stuff?
The red spark plug wires are MSD. Check my more recent videos and I have the links in the description (the recent one about the coil should have it).
Hey where can I get an maf sensor mine it’s bad I get an OL when testing it from E2 to VS and have a very rough idle trie from oraleys and they are reman maf sensors and have the same problem when testing from E2 to VS at maf sensor
Sorry forgot to mention I have. 1993 Toyota pick up 4 cyl 22re 2.4 liter
here is the one I'm running on my truck now - www.napaonline.com/en/p/NECXTP420055
One question why I have a leak in the canister gas line
not sure what you're asking. Can you be more specific?
Does anybody have a 22RE Mass flow sensor or know where I can buy one. Thanks
I bought mine from Napa
You can add a electric vac pump are belt driving ,its good for your engine neg vac in the oil pan area
Hi, great video thank you.
How much does the screw on the top of the AFM/MAF affect the rpms at idle, cold vs warm?
I have played with mine many times in the past & hadn’t noticed a difference.
But now I’m trying to diagnose a rough idle when warm symptom.
And comments are greatly appreciated, thank you:)
It's just a screw that blocks off a small passageway. When you back it out, the tip moves up and let's a small amount of extra air through. So it has relatively little impact on idle. It more for fine tuning and it can smooth the idle out a little. If you prop the hood up and watch how the support rod vibrates and adjust the trim screw, you can sort of see what I mean. I run mine about 1/2 a turn out. Usually if you run it all the way down and then start backing it out, you'll see where it starts to cause the idle to really go to hell. The other thing is to make sure your base timing is right at 5 degrees BTDC with the diagnostic jumper across Te and E (check the manual for details if you've never done it before). 5 degrees will give a smooth idle. Also make sure there are no cracks in the intake tube or elbow that runs between the AFM and the throttle body; that's often a source of rough idle. New spark plugs can also help out a lot - Denso is best typically. The other thing is make sure the IAC valve is functioning correctly.
@@ray5961 Thanks so much for your response.
•denso plugs, wires (from dealer)
•throttle body & ports removed/cleaned.
•checked multiple times for cracks (new rubber boot connected to throttle body).
•timing at 3deg BTDC (less pinging).
•IACV (I think this might be not opening all the way & causing rough idle).
Idle fine when hot, but I run a 180 deg thermostat & maybe it’s not opening all the way due to this? Runs at 1/4 temp on gauge, normally...it’s at 1/4 or less when I notice a rough idle.
Thank you, I’ll try tightening down the AFM screw then backing it off.
@@ray5961 also should mention that I have tried to adjust my idle when warm & when set at 850rpms then revved it goes down to 600 eventually. TPS sticking maybe?
I love my truck but I’ve chased this problem for years lol
@@DePalma. I'd run the base timing at 5 degrees. Make sure you are setting it with the diagnostic port jumped.
@@DePalma. Put the base timing at 5 degree (when the jumper on the diagnostic port is on) and set the idle to around 900 RPM. If the air/fuel ratio goes off the map, the idle will dip down to 500-600 RPM's at times. Are you running at catalytic converter and/or headers or anything which would speed up the exhaust flow? Or do you have the AS and/or EGR stuff disabled or removed?
Question: I have an 89 4Runner and I need a new AFM after finding out the previous owner Mickey Mouse’d a lot of things on this truck. I’ve read forum posts saying I can use an 84-87 or a 89.5-95 AFM but others saying I need one exactly for the 88/89’s or it won’t even start. Can I use others like a Napa re-mfg’d unit? As long as it passes a test with a multimeter it should be fine right? I’ve learned these 88/89’s are the bastard child of 22RE’s in terms of electronics so it gets kind of confusing.
I hear ya. My truck was built december 1989, although it's technically listed as a 1990 model year. I know they made some changes as time went on; my friend has a 1994 and it has some differences here and there. I don't know the specifics about the AFM from the standpoint of 84-87 vs. 89-95... however, aren't the 84-87 motors running carbs? The AFM relates to only EFI as far as I'm aware. Is your truck fuel injected? If it's got an ECU and fuel injection, then you are gonna most likely need an AFM from 89-95. On my truck, one of the very first things I did while learning about the 22RE was accidentally destroy my AFM. I ended up having to get a re-manufactured unit from Napa. It works fine and I've never had any issues with it. I would think you should be good w/ going the Napa route. Here's the link to Napa one I used on my truck (part # NECXTP420055 ) and it works top notch. They call it a "MAF" for some unknown reason but it's the Toyota AFM for 89-95 fuel injected truck: www.napaonline.com/en/p/NECXTP420055
@@ray5961 Yes mine is EFI. I think the only time the 4Runners had a carb was the 84 models then 85+ all were EFI. The pickups had a carb option up to 87. I’m gonna call Napa about that AFM just because I don’t think it’s available but they do have the one ending in 4200054. Who knows maybe they have one in the back room and haven’t noticed.
@@salvadorcallejasii842 Not sure about the other one Napa sells. There is a version from a Toyota Supra, which is slightly larger, and can be used on our trucks. You might want to check the forums and see if you can track that one down maybe. The other option is just to buy a used one on ebay and clean it up a little. The electronics inside are pretty straightforward. You can also remove the plastic lid and clean things up and/or repair electrical connections in there. What exactly is wrong with with your Mickey Mouse one over there?
@@ray5961 I think they went in there before and tried either rebuilding it or doing some “tuning” with it because it definitely does not have the stock internals. The gear and spring look much newer. The biggest thing though is a broken fuel pump contact. It was so brittle it broke when I was cleaning it. I say Mickey Mouse’d because A LOT of components on here could’ve been sourced new from OEM but he decided to piece everything from junkyard parts. Nothing against it, but if they make it new and it’s not a big price gap, definitely go for the new one.
@@salvadorcallejasii842 Sounds like maybe it's old yeah. The fuel pump contact breaking is no good. Tuning usually is for A/F ratios, but if they didn't mark the factory settings, who knows where it's at. Once you deviate from the factory settings, you basically need a wide band O2 sensor on the exhaust to dial it back in. I think you can only find used AFM's now and also the Napa re-manufactured ones. I don't think Toyota still has these in stock back at the factory.
What was the truck doing before you install the better ground?
It just seemed to run slightly smoother / sharper after the ground.
Wow! You truck looks so clean. I’d like my 4Runner 90 to look like yours.
By the way, where do you get your parts?
Thanks man! I just saw a clean 2nd gen 4Runner drive past me a couple days ago... those look so good. It depends on the part, but usually either Amazon or eBay or for Toyota factory stuff I generally order it from here: toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/ - they have good prices and do a nice job with shipping and packing.
@@ray5961 Thank you Ray
I'm currently suspecting my afm to be bad... I popped the cover off and tried to start the truck and the arm just flaps like crazy inside the afm
.. is it suppose to do that? My issue is that my 93 22re won't start and just pours fuel into the motor to the point I have a quart of gas in the oil pan....
I'm not sure how the door should react when the motor is running (never run the motor with the lid off actually), but I would assume the door should remain pretty steady in there, if the counter spring is working okay. Make sure the door is not binding in its travel around the arc. If you have fuel pouring into the engine, that could be a fuel injector which is stuck open. I would check the injectors (including the cold start injector) to ensure they are all functioning properly.
@ray5961 everything is smooth as glass. Good spring tension and all that. The cold start injector works when plugged in but stops when un plugged. Did that as a test. Was debating on a new fuel pressure regulator but idk how often those fail or if it would even allow fuel to push through injectors.
@@GunnerKrey-xk7pb It's pretty easy to test the fuel pressure regulator. Jumper Fp and B+ in the diag box to manually turn the fuel pump on (ignition key to ON). You should be able to hear the fuel flowing through the rail. Then pull a vacuum on the regulator and see if the pitch changes. If so, the regulator is probably fine. On my motor, I had several failed injectors, which was causing a lot of idle issues I think. When I installed the Bosch injectors, it was a lot smoother.
@ray5961 is there a fuel pressure sensor on the rail too? I can't find it to save my life... Google was unhelpful. I read the ohms through the VSV and it read 43 ohms... kinda thought it should be OL but can't find any advice on that issue as well
@@GunnerKrey-xk7pb The VSV is just an on/off vacuum switching valve.. hit it with 12 volts and see if it opens and closes. Personally, I threw that VSV for fuel up away; just run a vacuum line from the upper intake plenum directly to the fuel regulator and call it a day. This video talks about it a bit here - ua-cam.com/video/rcKjFEYHk28/v-deo.htmlsi=bKj7bJiwpB5qxA6c
Where you got the radiator?Do you know part number is it?
Campion cooling.. if you search their website, it will give you the # for the toyota pickup. Nice radiator, although I think mine might have a tiny leak some place.
@@ray5961I got it Thank you Ray
Did you take the power steering off?
Yes, that's correct. I have a video here which talks a bit more about it: ua-cam.com/video/6cVDeouHjGE/v-deo.html
Hi, I’m having a big power issue with my 22re. I replaced the TPS already and it was working great until one night it just want bad and now I can’t even get out of 3rd gear(45mph). imma test it out tomorrow morning and swap out my fuel filter. The plugs are new and so is the cap n rotor. I’ll recheck the timing and short the ports on the obd1. Anything else I should give a look at? I haven’t messed with the MAF yet since replacements are out of budget right now.
I'd start by running a compression check on all cylinders. It's possible you spun a bearing. Also check for blockage in the exhaust system (such s a collapsed catalytic convert internal); an exhaust restriction can cause a dramatic decrease in power. Also try pulling the plugs one by one to see if the idle drops on each of them. You can also do the same thing on the injectors to see if there is a change when you disconnect each one. Changing the fuel filter is a good idea no matter what, so that's worth a shot. Definitely do a compression check (crank 10 seconds with the throttle body held open) and all plugs removed. Ideally, they should be 170 to 190 and no more than a couple PSI difference across all the cylinders. Also confirm there are no exhaust blockages.
@@ray5961 I did check the compression a couple of months ago I can’t remember exact values but I remember everything was good and all were within 3psi of each other. The engine was just rebuilt around 2k miles ago. I’ll drive it and see if the cat glows. I’ll be back with an update in a few hours
@@xanny7373 hopefully the head gasket didn't blow. Did you install the head yourself or someone else? I'd re-run the compression check
@@ray5961 I have no idea who did the rebuild. I’m second owner and previous had it rebuilt. I think it also sat a few years after the rebuild probably since it was also lacking power when I first got it (TPS was gunked up). Hopefully my tps just went out of wack since It has lifetime warranty on it.
@@xanny7373 I hear ya. Mine was a similar situation... someone else did the rebuild. I ended up putting a new LCE head and cam on. With regard to your TPS did you set it according to the manual using feeler gauges and all that?
I took my front grille today... I had the same problem lol. How did you go about picking the rotors size and brake calipers part number? I do recall in one of the videos you said you had to make your own bracket which I can’t find the video but I will find soon. Did you have to replace any brake lines or anything of that sort? One of my brake caliper is seized up and I’m debating about replacing both front calipers and checking the back drums with something from parts store in the mean time or just do exactly what you did. Are those extra brackets that will work that you don’t need? I’ll buy them if they are the ones that will work. When you rewire the entire pickup did you use one size up(AWG) or the same as factory. My positive terminal doesn’t reach the positive post on the batter so will have to rewire that. Thank you very much Ray!!
For sizing the rotors & calipers, I spent a lot of hours pouring over Wilwood's website and reading up on the different caliper and rotor options. In the end, I went with a 12.88" rotor both front and rear. A lot had to do with the hat options available. I am running two very similar hats (front vs. rear) which give the proper offset for the rotor and clearances, etc. The calipers are Wilwood's FNSL 4 piston front and rear. wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperList?subname=FNSL4R I'm running the 120-11783-BK in back and the 120-11784-BK in front. I'd have to dig up the exact specs on the rotors, but I'm running the SRP drilled rotors here as I remember: wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorList1?mcat=254 - 12.88 diameter. I think the thickness I used was 1.10" although I would have to pull up all the info to double check that. Anyway, I built the entire system out of cardboard using a glue gun and bolted it up with the wheels I'm running to make sure it would all work. Then I bought the parts and took measurements and drew up the caliper brackets in Fusion 360 and had OSH cut laser them. Everything is new. Brake lines, pads, calipers, hats, rotors, etc. The brackets I showed in the video are spare rear bracket adapters, but I believe they still need to be threaded (the two mounting holes). If you are interested in buying the couple I have here, I can check and let you know if they need threading - is that something you are capable of doing there? I don't my stuff setup for tapping those holes right now. Threading SS is no joke haha. Anyway, those brackets bolt to the Toyota rear axle, using the bolts which old the rear wheel bearings on.. you're gonna have to use longer bolts. Also, those brackets are only half the issue.. you have to also buy Wilwood brackets which bolt to those brackets I made and then allow you to bolt the Wilwood caliper on - so the brackets I showed are only 50% of the solution to get your rear caliper installed. Also, you have to adapt rear brake lines into the existing hard lines that toyota uses and get rid of their crazy brake load proportioning valve stuff back there... I had to TIG weld custom brake line fittings for that, as I wasn't able to find the exact right fitting - but there are many different approaches to that if you need to run lines back there. But let me know if you wanna buy the brackets. As far as re-wiring, I mainly just modified the stock harness, but kept 95% of the Toyota wires. I used 18 and 22 ga wiring as I remember for most of that. The main electrical harnesses to the 140 Amp alternator is more like 2 or 4 gauge stuff. I also run those through individual circuit breakers and stuff. All the stuff going to the starter and battery is new. I used marine grade wire for that from Amazon. It's tin coated inside. I'd have to look up the company, but if you need the name, I can check my records. Let me know on the brackets. I was going to keep them in case I buy a 4Runner for my girlfriend and install custom brakes for her, but I can always make another set down the road. My total 4 wheel brake setup probably cost about $3,000 plus or minus, just in parts. Also, for the front FNSL 4 piston calipers, there is another 7075 aluminum alloy bracket that I had to make, although I think I was off by .020" in my measurements, so I had to shim it slightly. Also, even after cutting that bracket, it takes fairly extensive fabrication to make it work. Have you checked out the kits from Little Manufacturing shop? They sell some bolt on stuff that is a lot easier, although not quite as high performance as what I built. Let me know if you have any other questions or what those brackets, although there's a lot more required than just those brackets to make it all work :-)
@@ray5961 I thank you very much. In the current conditions of my pickup, I think the little shop manufacturing is the best fit for me right now. I did save this comment for future reference if I do wish to switch over to your set up. I don’t have a the right tools to thread SS, but could possibly get someone to do it. I think I’ll wait for that though. My pickup is leaking from what possibly be the oil pan and my guess the main seal from sitting for years. If you are interested in seeing my pickup condition I dont mine sharing with you, you might get a laugh from it.
@@ericrodriguez8556 Yeah, I'd love to see it. Do you have a UA-cam channel video or IG or something? If you saw mine when I first bought it, you'd laugh. It was real bad.. I only paid $800 for it.
@@ray5961 ua-cam.com/video/DEzE9mFcMg4/v-deo.html
I made this video. I do not think im cut off to making youtube videos.
@@ericrodriguez8556 Hey Eric - nice job on the video! I just finished watching it. On the fuel pump, 40 PSI is good and yes the PSI will drop down when you turn the motor off - it will go clear to zero actually over night usually. When you crank the starter the pump comes on, the pump is also triggered by the AFM door opening also, so make sure those circuits aren't corroded. If you are gonna do major restoration, there are 3 manuals you wanna get off ebay. I'll make a video later showing which ones you need. On thing you might wanna do is replace the fuel filter on the right side of the block as it will usually be dirty and blocking flow. Also, try jumping the fuel pump on like you did with B+ and Fp in the diag box and see if the motor will start and run with the fuel pump forced to stay on via the jumper instead of controlled by the ECU; that will tell you if it's the fuel filter or if the ECU and AFM circuits aren't doing their job (just don't run it too long like that). But my truck was pretty much just as bad as yours. The motor was so bad and covered with so much oil and dirt and grime that I couldn't even see most of it. I had to clean the under carriage 5 times with my pressure washer and then gas and a rag many many times, I also used a tooth brush and gas spray bottle to clean all the small areas. The interior looked like someone was living and eating in the truck and maybe murdered a prostitute in there also. I mean I found an entire bag of sunflower seeds dumped out WTF? Many many hours of work. I also had leaks across the entire truck. Someone put a motor from a 4x4 in my 2WD truck and the front steering linkage was sawing through the oil pan. When I drove home, no head lights at night due to a hidden short in the harness that I'm sure the previous owner gave up trying to find (took me 3 days of going over the wiring schematics to finally find it... I nearly cried when I found the break in the wire and fixed it). So I feel your pain man. I had to replace the front and rear main seals and also the transmission seals and the differential and axle seals. I think I've turned every nut and bolt on my truck at least once :-) Anyway, thanks for the video and good luck w/ your project. Hit me up anytime you've got questions and also the forums for Toyota's are super helpful and a lot of knowledge folks there who really know their business when it comes to the 22RE. Check out LC engineering also, they sell a lot of great parts and have a lot of helpful info on their page.
I think it would depend on elevation, on leaning AFR?
That definitely has an impact. I'm at 900 +/- feet in my garage. I've since solved this issue and it seemed to mainly be related to the IAC valve being out of adjustment. I had to just keep playing with it until I got it to where it worked pretty much 95% of the time.
@@ray5961 OK, I picked up a 95 that sat for years, and that IAC was a serious pain.
Still a little off but much better than before.
Ill definitely be digging into your content. Much appreciated.
Do you use twitter?
Hey Ray what year is your truck
It's a 1990
I have a 87 4x4 sr5 with a 22re
I'm having the low idle when warm at startup Issue, after 4-5 seconds idle goes to 850rpm .
It's only at startup not at stops
Check the hoses going to the IAC valve to see if they are both warm. You might also want to check to make sure your fuel filter is clean (I'd also put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see if there is a delay developing the correct fuel pressure in the rail maybe).
@@ray5961 I have the old IAC (bimetal heater element and water lines , both lines are warm .
Fuel filter is new.
I do have a vsv that controls the fuel pressure regulator, could that be the problem ?
@@rafaelduenas6465 It could be, but most likely not. The vacuum hose and VSV fuel up stuff actually can be totally removed and will not adversely affect the 22RE. I run my truck without it and simply run the vacuum line which originally went to the VSV directly to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail; this will keep the fuel pressure where you need it. Typically around 35 PSI at idle and maybe more like 40 something under load. I have a digital fuel pressure gauge in my truck (which taps directly into the exit side of the fuel filter) and have confirmed that running a vacuum line directly to the regulator doesn't make much difference as compared to looping it through the VSV. There are also some articles about that on line if you search around (and that's where I originally got the idea). You might try disconnecting your cold start injector harness on the back side of the upper plenum and see if that makes any difference. If the ECU thinks the car is cold (due to a faulty temp sender and/or faulty cold start injection timer), it may be partially flooding the engine on start up by inadvertently turning on that 5th injector on the plenum. You can defeat that by just unplugging the electrical harness which runs to the cold start fuel injector as a test and see if there is any difference.
Thanks
What kind of plug wires are you running
It's these MSD wires. Super happy w/ them. www.amazon.com/MSD-31949-8-5mm-Super-Conductor/dp/B0006HP9F8/
Ray Nada and those will work on the 22re
@@taylercoto368 That's what I'm running and they work well. Check MSD's website or Summit Racing and you can find out more info. Super nice set of wires though; I love them and their peak voltage is higher with these wires also.
Ray Nada I have I questions I have 93 with 22re and when I’m driving the check engine light come on and the truck will start to bog then it will go off and start running fine again I’ve tried to pull code but it says that there are no code and it’s got me stumped if you could give any pointer I would appreciate it
@@taylercoto368 You've installed the proper jumper in the diagnostic box to pull the code via flashing the check engine light correct? If so, then it's hard to say what the flight might be about. Are you sure the truck isn't momentarily losing power and causing the light to turn on due to that? Without more info, it's difficult to say. Bogging could be from ignition problems or lack of fuel pressure. If you can rig up a fuel pressure gauge, I would start there. You should see fuel pressure around 33-35 at idle and more around mid 40's under load when driving. Check your O2 sensors and wiring also... the ECU relies heavily on feedback from the sensors. I'd also verify that your TPS is setup correctly, as this can cause a great deal of issues if it's faulty.
..Prius always bump me from the rear...
just not safe anywhere these days... EV's all around us
I need a person like you in vegas haré is no mechanic around to handle my truck
But Vegas does have strip clubs :)
But I need a mechanic haha no club
@@EML662 What's up with your truck? Is it something you can tackle yourself maybe?
@@ray5961 hi sorry I put 2000 in parts more than 200 hours and still doesn’t pass smog I replaced so many parts but still nothing
@@EML662 I feel your pain man. I've had my truck fail smog twice, which is a real hassle. What does the smog shop say? Why are they failing it?
They run alot of gear i am rebuilding my Toy i removed alot of wtg air bags to replace heavy leaf spring and because i built a ford 9 inch light wtg disc brake Wilwoods13" so 700 lbs gone also made aluminum bed
Better seal up that airmeter.
That's definitely on my todo list over here :) As soon as the motor is running the way I want, I'm going to hit that seam with some Ultrablack RTV
I love your work, i love the fact that you lost parts for help. But brother do you talk alot. And you mumble low then get high. So the volume has to be turned up and down. You should probably list times for rants and times for just what you did not repeated jargon. We are simple folk so all that other shit is unnecessary. JMO
Some of the older videos definitely ramble on haha. But yeah, I hear ya and try to keep the videos as much on point these days and possible.
You copied me!!!!!
lol how so?
@@ray5961 lol your wheels and tires!
@@reperik5646 Best wheels ever!
@@ray5961 at least you know what looks good. 😄
@@reperik5646 that's what I'm saying :)
This video isn't "about" anything as much as it's you documenting your changes. Waste of my time.
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, some of my older videos ramble along all right. Was there something specific you were trying to figure out? Maybe I can help out with information here in the comments. I also have other videos on my channel which cover the IAC, etc. Let me know if there is a specific issue you are trying to resolve.