I agree yeah, 80/90% of natural fabric is fine with 10/20% of synthetic material. E.g. for coats my 100% Wool is a sponge whenever it rains heavily, so a bit of an outer layer isn't too bad
Firstly, love the video. Just want to add that Machine made are not always bad. Often, having the seams done (well) with machine means you have a very consistent garment that will not cost 5,000. While horn is better, SOME plastic buttons can be very good. The one thing that consistently make a cheap suit apparent is the poly material and fused construction - IMO of course.
As expected from this channel, this is superb and spot on. I'm a female, I don't wear suits, I make them, it's wonderful to have our craft appreciated. Properly made garments cost more, that's life. The dbl. breasted Merino suit is amazing, only specific strains of the Merino breed are capable of producing the extremely fine microns required for such work. The breeders who manage it are a master of their craft, much like the tailor who made this suit! *I grew up on a merino stud farm in Australia
You're bringing negativity upon yourself by watching a video posted on a channel that generally deals with clothing made with higher standards in mind. Quality doesn't come "cheeeaply".
My mother is a tailor and this gentleman's observations are spot on. She will have me check these things at the store to ensure I'm purchasing the best suit. Also it makes it easier for her to tailor it to me.
@@ABC-rh7zc Lol plastic buttons that break easily? I had buttons fall off, but never in my life have I heard of one actually breaking. Also, synthetic lining might actually be what you want depending on your needs. For one, it's more durable.
One thing I don’t enjoy when it comes to this channel is that he always connects price with how good it will look. I’ve seen plenty of budget outfits look really good and quite frankly, some of this guys suits don’t look the best although they cost a pretty penny
I find that he mostly does it to drive the fact home that quality is rarely cheap. Sure, SOME people got lucky enough to get cheap vintage garments and assembled a good outfit from it, but in this day and age you really have to pay for quality that is not vintage
When I was making a lot of money I had the four figured priced suits both custom and off the rack tailored. There is a big difference in feel and wear. I owned one suit where the fabric feel was so astounding I never felt that quality on any suit ever since. I do own lesser quality that looks great as well. If you're poor you buy what you can afford. At least you have pointed out what to look for in a quality suit.
It is so cool that this wisdom is now available to all - I learned all of this from my father, suits, blazers, sport coats, shoes, brands, belts, braces, suspenders, cedar shoe trees, rotation of your wardrobe, ties, knots, collars types, trench coats, overcoats, hats, scarves, gloves, watches, etc
I like this channel! However, these comments about "cheap & expensive" suits are really mostly irrelevent? you cannot afford a tailor made suit? , hand sewn seams! usually machine made is much better (except maybe the interlings, hand sewn in is very good, I know). The only things that matters are :- 1. Does the fabric look & feel nice? 2. Does it fit nicely? 3. Does it look good, on you 4. Can you afford it?
I will say though, that this sort of information is extremely useful to those who want to buy a nice suit on a budget- if you go to a second-hand/thrift store or a vintage store and look for a suit, the quality range is extreme, and being able to know how to find a quality item is extremely important- if you can buy something great for the same price as a poorly made item, why not? You just need to know what to look for.
@@dablop1 I totally agree with you. You need to know these type of things if you go to A Retro store or Thrift store because you can find really nice suits there but you have to have patience and know what you're looking for.
@@CharlesTurnerTheKing Exactly! You really can find very high quality suits and jackets at places like Goodwill or other thrift stores if you know what you are looking for, and get them for almost nothing.
Well, I just bought a suit from a thrift shop, and sometimes the cheap suits are the same price or similar priced as a good suit. I just bought a handmade suit, a H. Freedman and Sons, that is very nice. Thanks to this guy in the video. And he is right, there is a BIG difference between a cheap suit and a expensive handmade one.
I think your avatar speaks of how clueless you are, you can pay a fortune for big brands that use cheap polyester to cut cost but still advertise as luxury.
This video help me so very much. I found a Black, Loro Piana cashmere sport coat for $4 at a goodwill. I went home and looked up the retail price, and I was blown away by how expensive it was brand new. It is my first Cashmere coat I have owned, and I am in love with it.
Your suit doesn't have to be hand made with only the finest materials. Remember, fit is the #1 rule. When I go to the thrift stores in my town, I don't look at the stitching, I look at the fit. Why? Because fit is key. Don't even worry about that other stuff.
You assume you get value for money if you buy from the big brands like Hugo Boss? Those brands mark up their products like crazy because they know people just buy their products because of brand recognition
Thank you very much for posting this video Raphael! As a young man on a budget this video helped me out a lot and I appreciate that you explained the difference in collar stitches.
I've watched this video a few times, and I just now checked the comments. I took this video differently than many of you, and I believe Raphael may have been misinterpreted here, so let me explain how I took this information. . . A lot of the negativity with this video is with regards to the financial limitations of the buyers, and I assure you I understand. I'm a college student, so I don't have very much disposable income. It seems that my fellow viewers are upset and feel that Raphael is attacking those of us without money, however I feel that he is helping us to spot quality second-hand. I use this information when thrift shopping looking for a great suit, and while this isn't the end-all guide because personal fit and style are important as well, I found this video incredibly helpful when looking for used suits that fit my budget without buying newer, lower quality suits. I hope this has helped some, and if not, at least I can feel as though I was helpful 😂.
I couldn't watch the video after reading the headline. I couldn't give two hoots if someone is wearing a cheap suit or an expensive one, the piont is they have presented themselves the best they can afford, that speaks volumes
As much as I agree with what you are saying and I think the information is priceless we all can't afford Zegna or other high end brands. I can't pay 2000 or more for my suits. Although, every one that I own is perfectly tailored to my size. Fortunately, I have a local tailor that doesn't overcharge for his services.
i have a serie of vitale barberis dress pants, wool/flanel, summer and winter, they are among the best, once you go there, theres no turning back, really.
I keep asking myself why I'm so addicted to these videos seeing as how I don't really care about the subject matter enough to put it to practice I mean honestly I don't care enough about dressing in a suit to spend a ton of money I mean why spend $1,000 on something I'm going to wear once or twice over the next two decades. I'll take a cheap suit it'll work for what I need it for
Great video as usual! I would suggest pinching the fabric right below the top button. That is because nowadays you can find fused suits with a floating chestpiece inside, and pinching at the chest might give the impression of a canvas suit.
The problem with knowing all this is that you realize how little quality stuff there is out there... you'll never want to take an off-the-rack suit ever again. Or worse, you get angry at brands like Hugo Boss that charge hundreds of euros for a suit with nonworking cuffs, machine made and some even have polyester.... Get a grip!
Fusing is an industry standard by now. Getting something fully canvased is so incredibly expensive it only works out if you wear suits daily and hardly fluctuate in weight. Basically almost anything under a thousand dollars is cheap by those definitions. Even a lot above that could be considered that. I would probably call it regular and superior quality hallmarks instead.
It's because you cannot scale the business of a good suit because of how skill intensive and how many hours it takes. As with branding, well you always pay a premium for 'luxury' brands.
... upside is some low end suits have upgraded there methods ,so cheap suits don't look cheap . Hugo Boss now has many price points ...$100 Guatemala made jacket to $1200 suit made some were in Asia . I am saving up for bespoke .,...;-)
I feel you. I work in fashion design and retail, and you should've seen my face after I saw freying organza on a $4,500 dress at Vera Wang's location in Beverly Hills at Rodeo.
Raphael: I appreciate your information that you provide in your videos but in this case I believe that you're off the mark with this one because "cheap" suits are usually worn by poor people and poor people have enough problems without stuff like this making them feel worse because they can't afford great quality clothes. The fact that a poor person is willing to make the effort to try to dress better makes a statement. Maybe you should make a video for people that can't afford top quality suits and shoes?
I wouldn't consider myself to be particularly rich but I took his guidance and found many very nice suits and brought them 2nd hand and played sometimes a tenth of the original cost. However, I do applaud your motives.
This video is made for when you are trying to find a great suit at a vintage store like I am I find these videos very helpful. You really wouldn't need this knowledge if you could afford a bespoke suit for you.
That is not the intention of this video. This is here to inform you about the quality of construction in order to educate you into what to look for. Nothing malicious or belittling
Just found your site. Excellent. Also depressing because apparently all of my suits are cheap. Information that was never given to me. Will start remedying that.
If this was called "How to identify a handmade/bespoke/tailored suit" the comments would most likely be less heated. Repeatedly saying "cheap" as an implication of low(er) cost and quality will not win over most people that would be interested in watching this. I doubt guys with bespoke Italian suites are scanning UA-cam for handy hints on what others look for. Secondly: many points, while valid, are not useful in most situations. Inspecting threadwork is not needed when I'm going to get a suit. If I'm getting an off the shelf suite, I'm not expecting hand stitching. If I'm getting a bespoke 5k suite ...I still don't care as they will make it look and fit well - however they get that done is up to them. The most applicable place for these rules to possibly apply is going to a second hand/thrift shop - which you admitted to doing in this video. You can certainly make an argument that you got an "expensive" suit "cheaply" but your mixing definitions to fit your argument and inconsistency doesn't build credibility. The points about the lining and being aware of mixed materials were good. Thought this would cover the different wool types - which would be one of the most obvious things to look for, yet wasn't there. You have useful information and a wealth of knowledge and it is appreciated. Please be aware that language matters and the people on the internet are not in your store. Wearing an expensive, costly suit does not make you important or rich and doesn't get you respect (especially if your having to flip your collar over so people know it's bespoke). The wealthiesth people I know rarely wear suits. Food for thought...
Ian Sinclair I think people are too sensitive about these things. I only own a single suit (and a cheap one at that!) but I’m still interested in learning about clothes and hallmarks of quality.
I totally agree, except for the respect thing. A good look can underline a good first impression (applying at a company, increasing your social contacts), it can boost your self estem and very often people tend to trust people in better looking suits. Sometimes the sewing, the fabric or the buttons can make a difference on style and look. Of course, if you want to keep up the good impression, you have to convince with hard skills like grades or skills afterwards... I guess, that is what you meant. And for the rich people that do not like to wear suits: It is the same in my case. I have discovered the reason for that is that these people do not see suits as a hobby full of joy. They see it as something society "forces" them to wear sometimes.
He is giving information for people who want to know! If you don’t care about high quality then shut up! Quit taking out your insecurities on this guy! He is simply sharing knowledge!
Yea and Nay! A lot of this is pretty superficial and it fails to present concerns regarding the overall appearance of a suit. For me, the first indicator of a cheap suit is lack of balance in the pattern. Misaligned plaid, check, houndstooth or even the weave of a solid colored suit. Nothing disturbs my eye so much as these do. This is the thing I look for immediately! If the pattern is misaligned it's instantly out of consideration for purchase. I have other concerns, many the same as or similar to those discussed in this video but many of them will not stop me buying a suit so long as the most basic - balance, construction, material quality -are in good order. I also consider my likely intended purpose for the suit - sartorial presentation or utility (weather, dirty work, cat-burglary, back-alley knife-fighting, grave digging, etc.)
I would add one more thing, the lapel. From my experience at least, I could see that better suits have a nice rolling lapel whereas cheaper ones seems it got folded and pressed...looks really bad
Agree with you for everything except hand-sewing on the buttons and on the back of the neck , I found normal human craftsmanship make these lining imperfect in all way , so I would opt in for expensive line with these made by Machine and durability , also regularity makes it aesthetic looks and neat on modern man . For the rest of the hidden part , especially on the wrist , classic hand sewing will make wearer at most comfortable.
Good stuff - I thought I'd check though, I believe suit trousers should come down over the back of the shoe slightly, the sock should not be visible from behind
Yes, the guy in these vids has pants that are too short! I believe the pants are supposed to 'sit' on the shoe, and be slightly longer in the back. Several years ago pants that were too long were the fad, and they made the pants bunch all up at the bottom. But this guy's are too short.
If I consistently upheld stringent standards to this level, I wouldn't have any dress clothes. Most men I see these days dress like bums- faded jeans, dirty sneakers and old baseball caps. What's a little comical about such high standards as 'Gentleman's Gazette' is that nowadays the vast majority of men have extremely low standards in clothing! Don't even get me started on the women these days going around in pajamas! I understand what Sven is out to accomplish with this video though. I recommend buying new and vintage men's clothing with classic style, and avoid what's fashionable in the moment. Pick colors and a cut that suit's your body shape and complexion. Be efficient and buy the minimum that can be easily paired together. Again, avoid fashion fads! I recommend getting used to wearing sport coats and wool pants before moving on to suits. You're gonna want some decent quality dress shoes for a suit, those cheap plastic looking "dress" shoes from Wal-Mart or eBay direct from China are gonna bring down any suit.
What some people don't understand, is that Cheapness is the highest virtue. Sure, there are other virtues, and other ways that a product can be satisfying. But cheapness is the highest virtue, because it is universal. People have different tastes, but there is not one person on the planet that will turn down extra cash left in their wallet. The price of a good or service encodes the resources that society expended to provide it to you. A cheap product is a product that you and other people can enjoy at a lower cost to society than the expensive version. This means that more people can enjoy the same product, and/or those people can enjoy more of it. No matter how you look at it, cheapness is a virtue to be sought, not avoided.
It is true in 90% of all cases, since the jacket is designed to look better with the low row unbottened. But there are always exceptions, I guess. I think the important question is: Does it look good?
@@wernermoeser4440 That is only the case for single breasted suits. There is no rule to open up the low button on DB suits. Traditionally its closed for modern looks you can also open it up. Both is correct these days
Interesting and helpful. It was strange though hearing about hand stitched button holes being an asset because the no.1 thing my sister wanted for Christmas was a button hole attachment for her sewing machine. She showed me the difference and the hand-done one looked sloppy. It seemed you would have to do a ton of stitches to duplicate what a machine can do. I guess the tailors who make those suits have a lot of dexterity and patience.
Very useful video. Not just for men, but for anyone who is looking into investing into high quality clothing items. Great indicators for whether or not you're getting your money's worth.
I always order top part of my suit from my mom, so I got perfect fit all the time, perfect color, fabric and buttons. Sewed by machine, it's way cheaper than branded suits from the store, but quality is far better than anyone I've seen out there.
Unfortunately, I'm a big guy and have to get my suits mostly from DXL Mens Apparel and high-end suits are extravagantly expensive in my size due to the extra fabric used. I mostly wear Oak Hill brand blazers and sports jackets. I try to make them look better with higher-end accessories.
I appreciate information on distinctions like these from an educational standpoint, but "cheap" seems an overstatement. For those who enjoy indulging in fine clothing as a hobby, I don't begrudge them the right to spend their disposable income as they wish, but even for those of us with reasonable incomes and reasonably good taste, it's simply not practical to spend money on bespoke. To each his own, I suppose - I just bristle at the characterization of all machine made/mass market menswear as "cheap".
A key sign for any poorly made clothes, suits especially, are when the stitching and seams are crooked and uneven. They won’t lie flat, and make it look very cheap. Machine or hand made, they should always lie flat and be even.
If the collar felt is machined sewn instead of hand sewn, it doesn't exactly mean that it's a BAD suit does it? Wouldn't certain aspects of a suit that are machine sewn be better/more durable than hand sewn? I understand that the fully hand-sewn suit would be more expensive because it is more time-consuming, but not exactly BETTER. Please let me know if otherwise.
I’m my experience, it comes down to comfort and movability with the hand sewn aspects. I have a 1000 dollar MTM suit with mostly hand sewn aspects as described in the nicer suits, it allows me to move and the way the suit rests on my body is so soft that it doesn’t feel like my old Calvin Klein OTR or one of my other cheaper suits that I started off with. Those suits work and look okay, but once you wear a suit with hand stitching you come to realize it is actually more durable because it moves with you and won’t tear or pull as easy. I see that your comment is from some time ago and you may have already had this answered. Cheers.
No, DB jackets are traditionally always buttoned. Only in recent years has it become more acceptable to undo just the bottom button. Don't get confused with a single breasted jacket.
I did notice a small collar gap on the guy's suit in this video, but one of these vids I just saw where he was wearing a light brown vintage suit had an AWFUL collar gap! And just visible on one side from the front! One of the worst suit jackets I ever saw!
i have a question, you talk about cheap vs expensive, hand-made vs machine, but the real question is how a machine-sewed suit is worst than a hand-made one? i get that cheap buttons are worst, polyester lining and general cheaper materials are worst, but why machine sewing should be worst?
A well dressed man can spot quality and price is not always an indicator of quality. If the seller is unaware of style and quality they will not know how to price. Handmade is always more, but cheap can be nice.
Nice video. Always learning from them. I think I have a couple items with corozo buttons. I was about to replace the buttons since I mistook them for plastic. Maybe keep them now.
Way to go to make me feel bad in my Woolworths suit 🤣 But yes, my Woolworths suit is cheap. "100% polyester lining and out material" is pretty unambiguous.
If you have enough money, just order a bespoke suit; otherwise, buy a machine-made brand name suit and do some alternation at local tailors. The latter is the most economic way to get a suitable suit.
What really makes the price of a suit cheap is what you can't see. The construction underneath. The type of chest pieces used. The types of shoulder padding. The lack of corner cutting in seam work as well. Also the way the suit fits.
Hi gents. I don't know if you care for TV but I have been watching Hannibal on Amazon. What draws me to the programme is the excellent suits that he wears and he always wears at least 3 per episode. Would you consider doing a review on what you think of them?
I don't understand what you mean with cheap suits. The medium expensive suits that many regular people up to middle management positions in Germany wear are Hugo Boss or Ralph Lauren or Windsor or such, I think. These suits have, afaik, all mashine sewn button wholes and collars. So should I consider those cheap? In particular, if you could make a video that helps me distinguish medium quality suits from cheap ones, that would be most helpful. I have checked at ebay, following your advise to buy a used suit for 100€ instead of a new cheap one. If I buy a used RL suit there, I want to know if it is a real one or a cheap copy.
Well I do keep it cheap suit around just in case like of a big emergency I do keep a cheap suit but besides that I'll wear the suit I bought but I thrift store which is a very nice suit
Just do what snobs do. When looking at a man wearing a suit, let your eyes drop down so you can see the buttonhole in the lapel clearly. If it's not obviously handmade or a Milanese type buttonhole, its not s great suit. Cifonelli in Paris makes exceptional buttonholes.
I have a cheap suits apparently, but I have nice ties, shirts and pocket squares. My suit is also well tailored and I have the classic black suit and grey suit, so I think I'm good.
The outfits in the first Kingsman movie were bad. I think they even got Oxfords and the lacing mixed up... We were asked to promote the movie but declined because their stuff doesn't fit our standards.
I don't really know anything about suits yet. I found a pretty nice used burberry suit for 125 € (140 $) on ebay. Does a brand like burberry offer quality? Is the price justified?
Idk I'm just like you. I recommend to see the picture if it looks natural over synthetic. If it's at a cheap price it's a gamble because it is on the internet
I wpuld have to diagree. I have an 80 dlls suit that looks and feels like an 800dlls suit i had so many complements. Its not about how expensive or inexpensive, its about if you have the body to fit that suit
A B C It depends on the thrift store and the location. A lot of trial and error but now I have a short list of neighborhoods and stores where I can find quality items - well worth the time investment in the dollar savings. Plus, it’s fun!
Every once in a while you get lucky. I managed to find someone's entire wardrobe from about 2004 from a custom tailor in Toronto not long ago. I now have 10 (mostly) hand made suits that would've cost me around 12k had I bought them all new. On top of that, they fit almost perfectly straight off. A small adjustment to the jackets worked wonderfully. That said, this isn't a terribly common thing to find, especially not finding something that fits in this way, but I'd say a few months of going to a thrift store regularly to find one high quality suit for a good deal is well worth the effort.
@@darkdistroi Nice find! I haven't even seen a thrift store in 3 years. If you have some local ones then that makes a lot of sense to drop by once in a while.
Like Alex, I stumbled upon a thrift store that someone my size has been donating clothes. I'm a 46xl, finding suits at a decent price even before alterations has always been an issue. So far I've found a Jones NY tuxedo and a Hugo BOSS Pasolini Movie suit. Both jackets fit great, the Hugo Boss pants break perfectly, the tux pants could be shortened by 1/4" to 1/2" if I wanted to be perfect. Both suits total... $15 USD, and that was only because the color of the tag on the tux was 50% off that week. Don't be afraid to explore the areas outside of your city, sometimes those are where you'll find hidden gems. "My" new place is about an hour away from me, so it makes for a nice day trip.
I got 2 Oliver wicks MTM I really like, except the armhole is a bit too low for my taste. However, they fit almost all “cheap suit” criteria according to this video. Now I’m feeling less love for them.
I found this like new navy pinstripe 2 piece suit at the goodwill for 12 bucks. It fit perfect all the way to the cuff break. The jacket fit like it had my name on it. I had it cleaned and bought shoes and socks as per Svens instruction. I also got a yellow Donald Trump tie to go with it as well as a slightly contrasting cotton shirt. I thought I was cruzin'. But after watching this video..........damn..... I got a cheap suit.. that fits great.
This video isn’t essentially a cheap suit spotting guide but rather an expensive suit spotting guide. It’s more for vintage/outlet shopping.
It's going over both, technically.
I agree yeah, 80/90% of natural fabric is fine with 10/20% of synthetic material. E.g. for coats my 100% Wool is a sponge whenever it rains heavily, so a bit of an outer layer isn't too bad
Firstly, love the video. Just want to add that Machine made are not always bad. Often, having the seams done (well) with machine means you have a very consistent garment that will not cost 5,000. While horn is better, SOME plastic buttons can be very good. The one thing that consistently make a cheap suit apparent is the poly material and fused construction - IMO of course.
As expected from this channel, this is superb and spot on. I'm a female, I don't wear suits, I make them, it's wonderful to have our craft appreciated. Properly made garments cost more, that's life. The dbl. breasted Merino suit is amazing, only specific strains of the Merino breed are capable of producing the extremely fine microns required for such work. The breeders who manage it are a master of their craft, much like the tailor who made this suit! *I grew up on a merino stud farm in Australia
The way he says "cheeeap" makes you feel even more broke than you truly are. smh
You're bringing negativity upon yourself by watching a video posted on a channel that generally deals with clothing made with higher standards in mind. Quality doesn't come "cheeeaply".
This guy regularly wears suits from thrift shops and he always makes videos about buying good clothes and accessories for a few bucks
I love it, and I have cheap suits.
Seriously true 🤣
@@victor_gradinaru He is clearly joking.
My mother is a tailor and this gentleman's observations are spot on. She will have me check these things at the store to ensure I'm purchasing the best suit. Also it makes it easier for her to tailor it to me.
Basically cheap is machine made. Expensive is handmade. Who cares if its machine or man made? As long as it fits you nicely and looks good.
As I understand it. With a suit the curve in the fabric is made by stretching and sewing.
This is pretty hard to do with a machine.
did you miss the part about synthetic linings? plastic buttons that break easily? etc. There is more to a suit than good fit.
@@HouseholdDog what is curve?
you've missed the point of the video, peasant
@@ABC-rh7zc Lol plastic buttons that break easily? I had buttons fall off, but never in my life have I heard of one actually breaking. Also, synthetic lining might actually be what you want depending on your needs. For one, it's more durable.
One thing I don’t enjoy when it comes to this channel is that he always connects price with how good it will look. I’ve seen plenty of budget outfits look really good and quite frankly, some of this guys suits don’t look the best although they cost a pretty penny
I find that he mostly does it to drive the fact home that quality is rarely cheap. Sure, SOME people got lucky enough to get cheap vintage garments and assembled a good outfit from it, but in this day and age you really have to pay for quality that is not vintage
Thanks so much. I got a quality suit from a thrift store, with the help and advice of this video. Keep up the good work.
Hmmmmm, I rather wear a NEW cheap suit that's $300, than a used suit that's $6000.00.
The height of the arm holes is a great way of finding a cheap suit too. Lower cut arm holes fit more people and make the suit cheaper to manufacture.
When I was making a lot of money I had the four figured priced suits both custom and off the rack tailored. There is a big difference in feel and wear. I owned one suit where the fabric feel was so astounding I never felt that quality on any suit ever since. I do own lesser quality that looks great as well. If you're poor you buy what you can afford. At least you have pointed out what to look for in a quality suit.
It is so cool that this wisdom is now available to all - I learned all of this from my father, suits, blazers, sport coats, shoes, brands, belts, braces, suspenders, cedar shoe trees, rotation of your wardrobe, ties, knots, collars types, trench coats, overcoats, hats, scarves, gloves, watches, etc
I like this channel! However, these comments about "cheap & expensive" suits are really mostly irrelevent? you cannot afford a tailor made suit? , hand sewn seams! usually machine made is much better (except maybe the interlings, hand sewn in is very good, I know).
The only things that matters are :-
1. Does the fabric look & feel nice?
2. Does it fit nicely?
3. Does it look good, on you
4. Can you afford it?
I will say though, that this sort of information is extremely useful to those who want to buy a nice suit on a budget- if you go to a second-hand/thrift store or a vintage store and look for a suit, the quality range is extreme, and being able to know how to find a quality item is extremely important- if you can buy something great for the same price as a poorly made item, why not? You just need to know what to look for.
@@dablop1 Oh never thought of this. Thank you!
I agree....
@@dablop1 I totally agree with you. You need to know these type of things if you go to A Retro store or Thrift store because you can find really nice suits there but you have to have patience and know what you're looking for.
@@CharlesTurnerTheKing Exactly! You really can find very high quality suits and jackets at places like Goodwill or other thrift stores if you know what you are looking for, and get them for almost nothing.
How to tell if a suit is cheap or not: It's cheaper than the expensive suit.
Well, I just bought a suit from a thrift shop, and sometimes the cheap suits are the same price or similar priced as a good suit. I just bought a handmade suit, a H. Freedman and Sons, that is very nice. Thanks to this guy in the video. And he is right, there is a BIG difference between a cheap suit and a expensive handmade one.
you can have an expensive suit cheaper in a second hand store for les than a "cheap" one.
I think your avatar speaks of how clueless you are, you can pay a fortune for big brands that use cheap polyester to cut cost but still advertise as luxury.
This video help me so very much. I found a Black, Loro Piana cashmere sport coat for $4 at a goodwill. I went home and looked up the retail price, and I was blown away by how expensive it was brand new. It is my first Cashmere coat I have owned, and I am in love with it.
Your suit doesn't have to be hand made with only the finest materials. Remember, fit is the #1 rule. When I go to the thrift stores in my town, I don't look at the stitching, I look at the fit. Why? Because fit is key. Don't even worry about that other stuff.
I might be wrong, but isn't the cheap price the first sign of a cheap suit?
It could be a cheap, crappy suit sold for an expensive price or a used quality suit for a very good price.
An expensive suit doesn't mean it's a good suit
Buyer be ware......
You assume you get value for money if you buy from the big brands like Hugo Boss? Those brands mark up their products like crazy because they know people just buy their products because of brand recognition
let do have money to buy suit expensive olny some cash buy a cheap suit look at the real world
Thank you very much for posting this video Raphael! As a young man on a budget this video helped me out a lot and I appreciate that you explained the difference in collar stitches.
I've watched this video a few times, and I just now checked the comments. I took this video differently than many of you, and I believe Raphael may have been misinterpreted here, so let me explain how I took this information.
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A lot of the negativity with this video is with regards to the financial limitations of the buyers, and I assure you I understand. I'm a college student, so I don't have very much disposable income. It seems that my fellow viewers are upset and feel that Raphael is attacking those of us without money, however I feel that he is helping us to spot quality second-hand. I use this information when thrift shopping looking for a great suit, and while this isn't the end-all guide because personal fit and style are important as well, I found this video incredibly helpful when looking for used suits that fit my budget without buying newer, lower quality suits. I hope this has helped some, and if not, at least I can feel as though I was helpful 😂.
I love how you say the word, cheap. A sense a great condescending tone. Lovely.
All these people moaning will probably come back under the cover of night next time they need to buy a suit 😂
Thanks, I almost bought a Haggar with 64% polyester lining. No wonder it sells for it costs $269.00 but $88.00 on "flash sale."
I find you videos most interesting about gentlemen's style. I'm as a woman can't stop watching them.
I couldn't watch the video after reading the headline. I couldn't give two hoots if someone is wearing a cheap suit or an expensive one, the piont is they have presented themselves the best they can afford, that speaks volumes
As much as I agree with what you are saying and I think the information is priceless we all can't afford Zegna or other high end brands. I can't pay 2000 or more for my suits. Although, every one that I own is perfectly tailored to my size. Fortunately, I have a local tailor that doesn't overcharge for his services.
Why does machine stitched mean cheap. I have few expensive branded machine stitched suits. Doesn’t make sense to me.
i have a serie of vitale barberis dress pants, wool/flanel, summer and winter, they are among the best, once you go there, theres no turning back, really.
I keep asking myself why I'm so addicted to these videos seeing as how I don't really care about the subject matter enough to put it to practice I mean honestly I don't care enough about dressing in a suit to spend a ton of money I mean why spend $1,000 on something I'm going to wear once or twice over the next two decades. I'll take a cheap suit it'll work for what I need it for
Great video as usual! I would suggest pinching the fabric right below the top button. That is because nowadays you can find fused suits with a floating chestpiece inside, and pinching at the chest might give the impression of a canvas suit.
The problem with knowing all this is that you realize how little quality stuff there is out there... you'll never want to take an off-the-rack suit ever again. Or worse, you get angry at brands like Hugo Boss that charge hundreds of euros for a suit with nonworking cuffs, machine made and some even have polyester.... Get a grip!
Fusing is an industry standard by now. Getting something fully canvased is so incredibly expensive it only works out if you wear suits daily and hardly fluctuate in weight.
Basically almost anything under a thousand dollars is cheap by those definitions. Even a lot above that could be considered that.
I would probably call it regular and superior quality hallmarks instead.
It's because you cannot scale the business of a good suit because of how skill intensive and how many hours it takes. As with branding, well you always pay a premium for 'luxury' brands.
... upside is some low end suits have upgraded there methods ,so cheap suits don't look cheap . Hugo Boss now has many price points ...$100 Guatemala made jacket to $1200 suit made some were in Asia . I am saving up for bespoke .,...;-)
T M but it is a little wired how they sell cuff links if the suits don’t have cuffs.
I feel you. I work in fashion design and retail, and you should've seen my face after I saw freying organza on a $4,500 dress at Vera Wang's location in Beverly Hills at Rodeo.
Yours are most informative style videos on UA-cam Raphael. I’ve got to get one of those gorgeous pocket squares!
+New England Style Consulting Thanks Carl
Raphael:
I appreciate your information that you provide in your videos but in this case I believe that you're off the mark with this one because "cheap" suits are usually worn by poor people and poor people have enough problems without stuff like this making them feel worse because they can't afford great quality clothes. The fact that a poor person is willing to make the effort to try to dress better makes a statement.
Maybe you should make a video for people that can't afford top quality suits and shoes?
I wouldn't consider myself to be particularly rich but I took his guidance and found many very nice suits and brought them 2nd hand and played sometimes a tenth of the original cost. However, I do applaud your motives.
This video is made for when you are trying to find a great suit at a vintage store like I am I find these videos very helpful. You really wouldn't need this knowledge if you could afford a bespoke suit for you.
You state the obvious,,What’s your point,
That is not the intention of this video. This is here to inform you about the quality of construction in order to educate you into what to look for. Nothing malicious or belittling
This is a great idea, something where no one feels left out.
Just found your site. Excellent. Also depressing because apparently all of my suits are cheap. Information that was never given to me. Will start remedying that.
If this was called "How to identify a handmade/bespoke/tailored suit" the comments would most likely be less heated. Repeatedly saying "cheap" as an implication of low(er) cost and quality will not win over most people that would be interested in watching this. I doubt guys with bespoke Italian suites are scanning UA-cam for handy hints on what others look for.
Secondly: many points, while valid, are not useful in most situations. Inspecting threadwork is not needed when I'm going to get a suit. If I'm getting an off the shelf suite, I'm not expecting hand stitching. If I'm getting a bespoke 5k suite ...I still don't care as they will make it look and fit well - however they get that done is up to them. The most applicable place for these rules to possibly apply is going to a second hand/thrift shop - which you admitted to doing in this video. You can certainly make an argument that you got an "expensive" suit "cheaply" but your mixing definitions to fit your argument and inconsistency doesn't build credibility.
The points about the lining and being aware of mixed materials were good. Thought this would cover the different wool types - which would be one of the most obvious things to look for, yet wasn't there.
You have useful information and a wealth of knowledge and it is appreciated. Please be aware that language matters and the people on the internet are not in your store.
Wearing an expensive, costly suit does not make you important or rich and doesn't get you respect (especially if your having to flip your collar over so people know it's bespoke). The wealthiesth people I know rarely wear suits. Food for thought...
Ian Sinclair I think people are too sensitive about these things. I only own a single suit (and a cheap one at that!) but I’m still interested in learning about clothes and hallmarks of quality.
Prague Uprising People are so bitter, no matter what you do there is always going to be someone who has to point out something annoying
I totally agree, except for the respect thing.
A good look can underline a good first impression (applying at a company, increasing your social contacts), it can boost your self estem and very often people tend to trust people in better looking suits. Sometimes the sewing, the fabric or the buttons can make a difference on style and look.
Of course, if you want to keep up the good impression, you have to convince with hard skills like grades or skills afterwards... I guess, that is what you meant.
And for the rich people that do not like to wear suits: It is the same in my case. I have discovered the reason for that is that these people do not see suits as a hobby full of joy. They see it as something society "forces" them to wear sometimes.
Amen.
I love the suit you are wearing in this video, you inspired me to get a similar one.
thanks
A good suit, properly fitted is worth every penny.
He is giving information for people who want to know! If you don’t care about high quality then shut up! Quit taking out your insecurities on this guy! He is simply sharing knowledge!
Yea and Nay!
A lot of this is pretty superficial and it fails to present concerns regarding the overall appearance of a suit.
For me, the first indicator of a cheap suit is lack of balance in the pattern. Misaligned plaid, check, houndstooth or even the weave of a solid colored suit. Nothing disturbs my eye so much as these do.
This is the thing I look for immediately! If the pattern is misaligned it's instantly out of consideration for purchase.
I have other concerns, many the same as or similar to those discussed in this video but many of them will not stop me buying a suit so long as the most basic - balance, construction, material quality -are in good order.
I also consider my likely intended purpose for the suit - sartorial presentation or utility (weather, dirty work, cat-burglary, back-alley knife-fighting, grave digging, etc.)
Whenever I need some real theory & science about style, I come to this channel. Wonderful video and such a good quality content !
I would add one more thing, the lapel. From my experience at least, I could see that better suits have a nice rolling lapel whereas cheaper ones seems it got folded and pressed...looks really bad
Agree with you for everything except hand-sewing on the buttons and on the back of the neck , I found normal human craftsmanship make these lining imperfect in all way , so I would opt in for expensive line with these made by Machine and durability , also regularity makes it aesthetic looks and neat on modern man . For the rest of the hidden part , especially on the wrist , classic hand sewing will make wearer at most comfortable.
Totally agree with the video!
Greetings from Italy.
I want to dress well but not break the bank or the environment. With videos like these, going vintage becomes a lot easier.
What about your business card?
@@zachseabass7414 XDXDXDXDXDXDXDXD
Is Tiger of sweden a good brand for suits? Thanks
Good stuff - I thought I'd check though, I believe suit trousers should come down over the back of the shoe slightly, the sock should not be visible from behind
Yes, the guy in these vids has pants that are too short! I believe the pants are supposed to 'sit' on the shoe, and be slightly longer in the back. Several years ago pants that were too long were the fad, and they made the pants bunch all up at the bottom. But this guy's are too short.
Great vid! Looking forward to the sequel to this. How to spot a cheap suit: on other people.
If I consistently upheld stringent standards to this level, I wouldn't have any dress clothes. Most men I see these days dress like bums- faded jeans, dirty sneakers and old baseball caps. What's a little comical about such high standards as 'Gentleman's Gazette' is that nowadays the vast majority of men have extremely low standards in clothing! Don't even get me started on the women these days going around in pajamas! I understand what Sven is out to accomplish with this video though.
I recommend buying new and vintage men's clothing with classic style, and avoid what's fashionable in the moment. Pick colors and a cut that suit's your body shape and complexion. Be efficient and buy the minimum that can be easily paired together. Again, avoid fashion fads! I recommend getting used to wearing sport coats and wool pants before moving on to suits. You're gonna want some decent quality dress shoes for a suit, those cheap plastic looking "dress" shoes from Wal-Mart or eBay direct from China are gonna bring down any suit.
What some people don't understand, is that Cheapness is the highest virtue. Sure, there are other virtues, and other ways that a product can be satisfying. But cheapness is the highest virtue, because it is universal. People have different tastes, but there is not one person on the planet that will turn down extra cash left in their wallet.
The price of a good or service encodes the resources that society expended to provide it to you. A cheap product is a product that you and other people can enjoy at a lower cost to society than the expensive version. This means that more people can enjoy the same product, and/or those people can enjoy more of it. No matter how you look at it, cheapness is a virtue to be sought, not avoided.
I make faced/bound button holes. They look nicer than any button hole that is surrounded by stitching.
You shouldn't button the lowest button, even on a 6x2. It signifies that you should button the middle one. Same with a 4x2.
It is true in 90% of all cases, since the jacket is designed to look better with the low row unbottened. But there are always exceptions, I guess.
I think the important question is: Does it look good?
@@wernermoeser4440 That is only the case for single breasted suits. There is no rule to open up the low button on DB suits. Traditionally its closed for modern looks you can also open it up. Both is correct these days
Undoing the bottom button destroys the symmetry double breasters are famous for
Interesting and helpful. It was strange though hearing about hand stitched button holes being an asset because the no.1 thing my sister wanted for Christmas was a button hole attachment for her sewing machine. She showed me the difference and the hand-done one looked sloppy. It seemed you would have to do a ton of stitches to duplicate what a machine can do. I guess the tailors who make those suits have a lot of dexterity and patience.
Very useful video. Not just for men, but for anyone who is looking into investing into high quality clothing items. Great indicators for whether or not you're getting your money's worth.
Thank you can you make a pdf with this information so we can take it with us when buying suits
Thats why I like older suits,Even the cheap old ones have alot of reserve
It's the man who makes the clothes, not the clothes that make the man. A smile and self-confidence work wonders.
I always order top part of my suit from my mom, so I got perfect fit all the time, perfect color, fabric and buttons. Sewed by machine, it's way cheaper than branded suits from the store, but quality is far better than anyone I've seen out there.
Unfortunately, I'm a big guy and have to get my suits mostly from DXL Mens Apparel and high-end suits are extravagantly expensive in my size due to the extra fabric used. I mostly wear Oak Hill brand blazers and sports jackets. I try to make them look better with higher-end accessories.
How much alterstions do you have to have on the DXL suits?
I appreciate information on distinctions like these from an educational standpoint, but "cheap" seems an overstatement. For those who enjoy indulging in fine clothing as a hobby, I don't begrudge them the right to spend their disposable income as they wish, but even for those of us with reasonable incomes and reasonably good taste, it's simply not practical to spend money on bespoke. To each his own, I suppose - I just bristle at the characterization of all machine made/mass market menswear as "cheap".
Useful information but why don’t your trousers fit?
A key sign for any poorly made clothes, suits especially, are when the stitching and seams are crooked and uneven. They won’t lie flat, and make it look very cheap. Machine or hand made, they should always lie flat and be even.
I've found this channel useful and entertaining. Thanks.
If the collar felt is machined sewn instead of hand sewn, it doesn't exactly mean that it's a BAD suit does it? Wouldn't certain aspects of a suit that are machine sewn be better/more durable than hand sewn? I understand that the fully hand-sewn suit would be more expensive because it is more time-consuming, but not exactly BETTER. Please let me know if otherwise.
I’m my experience, it comes down to comfort and movability with the hand sewn aspects. I have a 1000 dollar MTM suit with mostly hand sewn aspects as described in the nicer suits, it allows me to move and the way the suit rests on my body is so soft that it doesn’t feel like my old Calvin Klein OTR or one of my other cheaper suits that I started off with. Those suits work and look okay, but once you wear a suit with hand stitching you come to realize it is actually more durable because it moves with you and won’t tear or pull as easy. I see that your comment is from some time ago and you may have already had this answered. Cheers.
How come you buttoned the bottom button? Isn't that one supposed to be undone?
No, DB jackets are traditionally always buttoned. Only in recent years has it become more acceptable to undo just the bottom button. Don't get confused with a single breasted jacket.
You are so knowledgable and informative. How did you come to learn these things about style and behaviour?
I noticed you have a collar gap, indication of an ill fitting suit.
There also appears to be some dimples at the shoulders
I did notice a small collar gap on the guy's suit in this video, but one of these vids I just saw where he was wearing a light brown vintage suit had an AWFUL collar gap! And just visible on one side from the front! One of the worst suit jackets I ever saw!
What do you say about Hugo Boss suits of today. The black label. Are they really half canvas? Or maybe fully fused but in a sofisticated way?
Today I was looking at a Zegna Trofeo 3 piece suit which to me is not a cheap suit but It had a 100% rayon lining.. is that a bad sign?
First reply in 5 years eh?
i have a question, you talk about cheap vs expensive, hand-made vs machine, but the real question is how a machine-sewed suit is worst than a hand-made one?
i get that cheap buttons are worst, polyester lining and general cheaper materials are worst, but why machine sewing should be worst?
A well dressed man can spot quality and price is not always an indicator of quality. If the seller is unaware of style and quality they will not know how to price. Handmade is always more, but cheap can be nice.
Nice video. Always learning from them. I think I have a couple items with corozo buttons. I was about to replace the buttons since I mistook them for plastic. Maybe keep them now.
I honestly enjoy these videos keep it up.
Look at the price. MIND BLOWN
Way to go to make me feel bad in my Woolworths suit 🤣
But yes, my Woolworths suit is cheap. "100% polyester lining and out material" is pretty unambiguous.
If you have enough money, just order a bespoke suit; otherwise, buy a machine-made brand name suit and do some alternation at local tailors. The latter is the most economic way to get a suitable suit.
What do you think of wood buttons?
What really makes the price of a suit cheap is what you can't see. The construction underneath. The type of chest pieces used. The types of shoulder padding. The lack of corner cutting in seam work as well. Also the way the suit fits.
If you can't see it and can't feel the difference wearing it then guess what 0t dosent matter
Hi gents. I don't know if you care for TV but I have been watching Hannibal on Amazon. What draws me to the programme is the excellent suits that he wears and he always wears at least 3 per episode.
Would you consider doing a review on what you think of them?
I don't understand what you mean with cheap suits. The medium expensive suits that many regular people up to middle management positions in Germany wear are Hugo Boss or Ralph Lauren or Windsor or such, I think. These suits have, afaik, all mashine sewn button wholes and collars. So should I consider those cheap?
In particular, if you could make a video that helps me distinguish medium quality suits from cheap ones, that would be most helpful.
I have checked at ebay, following your advise to buy a used suit for 100€ instead of a new cheap one. If I buy a used RL suit there, I want to know if it is a real one or a cheap copy.
Horn button??!!
Well first i thought by cheap you mean low quality suit but now i think its not just luxorious.
I live close to the Twin Cities. What are some good vintage clothes stores I can check out?
What do you think of viscose ? Especially suite made with 100% viscose, and it says super 150,s what dose this mean?
What do you think of Hickey Freeman jackets and suits?
I love this, lovely video
very VERY informative. Thank you 👍🏻
Well I do keep it cheap suit around just in case like of a big emergency I do keep a cheap suit but besides that I'll wear the suit I bought but I thrift store which is a very nice suit
Very useful video for people who set prizes in thrift stores.
Goodwill . Coach dusty baker suit jacket. Price 14.99 hand man’s with wool and silk lining . Must be a $500 jacket or more !
Just do what snobs do. When looking at a man wearing a suit, let your eyes drop down so you can see the buttonhole in the lapel clearly. If it's not obviously handmade or a Milanese type buttonhole, its not s great suit. Cifonelli in Paris makes exceptional buttonholes.
I have a cheap suits apparently, but I have nice ties, shirts and pocket squares. My suit is also well tailored and I have the classic black suit and grey suit, so I think I'm good.
What is your opinion on MR Porter's kingsman inspired suits?
Adrian Romero those are sick. Especially the orange jacket.
Yeah right?
Not worth it!!!! almost $2000 for a suit is like way to much and $600 for a bomber is shit
The outfits in the first Kingsman movie were bad. I think they even got Oxfords and the lacing mixed up... We were asked to promote the movie but declined because their stuff doesn't fit our standards.
Adrian Romero o
Make sure it says Canali on it, and you should be fine. :) Not even necessary where they are made, because all Canali products are made in Italy.
I don't really know anything about suits yet.
I found a pretty nice used burberry suit for 125 € (140 $) on ebay.
Does a brand like burberry offer quality? Is the price justified?
Idk I'm just like you. I recommend to see the picture if it looks natural over synthetic. If it's at a cheap price it's a gamble because it is on the internet
I wpuld have to diagree. I have an 80 dlls suit that looks and feels like an 800dlls suit i had so many complements. Its not about how expensive or inexpensive, its about if you have the body to fit that suit
Assuming no difference to fit, what would you prefer - top quality fabrics, but machine made vs poor fabric but hand made?
+Justin Foord pointless question. I have never seen a handmade suit of poor fabric. Always go wjithe handsewn
Gentleman's Gazette fair enough
Interesting video but the chance of me finding a good-looking, high-quality, hand-made suit which fits me in a thrift shop is zero.
A B C
It depends on the thrift store and the location. A lot of trial and error but now I have a short list of neighborhoods and stores where I can find quality items - well worth the time investment in the dollar savings. Plus, it’s fun!
Every once in a while you get lucky. I managed to find someone's entire wardrobe from about 2004 from a custom tailor in Toronto not long ago. I now have 10 (mostly) hand made suits that would've cost me around 12k had I bought them all new. On top of that, they fit almost perfectly straight off. A small adjustment to the jackets worked wonderfully.
That said, this isn't a terribly common thing to find, especially not finding something that fits in this way, but I'd say a few months of going to a thrift store regularly to find one high quality suit for a good deal is well worth the effort.
@@darkdistroi Nice find! I haven't even seen a thrift store in 3 years. If you have some local ones then that makes a lot of sense to drop by once in a while.
Like Alex, I stumbled upon a thrift store that someone my size has been donating clothes. I'm a 46xl, finding suits at a decent price even before alterations has always been an issue.
So far I've found a Jones NY tuxedo and a Hugo BOSS Pasolini Movie suit. Both jackets fit great, the Hugo Boss pants break perfectly, the tux pants could be shortened by 1/4" to 1/2" if I wanted to be perfect. Both suits total... $15 USD, and that was only because the color of the tag on the tux was 50% off that week.
Don't be afraid to explore the areas outside of your city, sometimes those are where you'll find hidden gems. "My" new place is about an hour away from me, so it makes for a nice day trip.
Is Terry Rayon a good fabric for suit ?
Aren't unlined/unstructured jackets neither fused nor canvased? Wouldn't that be a better choice for a cheap suit?
It would be in theory but it can also be difficult to find.
I got 2 Oliver wicks MTM I really like, except the armhole is a bit too low for my taste. However, they fit almost all “cheap suit” criteria according to this video. Now I’m feeling less love for them.
Which brand can you name that sell cheap (in price) but good suits???
Excellent! Now I can shame poor people trying to look nice!
I found this like new navy pinstripe 2 piece suit at the goodwill for 12 bucks. It fit perfect all the way to the cuff break. The jacket fit like it had my name on it. I had it cleaned and bought shoes and socks as per Svens instruction. I also got a yellow Donald Trump tie to go with it as well as a slightly contrasting cotton shirt. I thought I was cruzin'. But after watching this video..........damn..... I got a cheap suit.. that fits great.