Kayak Trolling Motor Wiring - Clamping Quick Connects
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2020
- Kayak trolling motor wiring is not complicated, but you should use quick connects to link your trolling motor to the battery. This is a key part of a kayak trolling motor wiring kit and there is a trick to make sure your trolling motor wiring is locked in. Be sure to include this in your kayak trolling motor setup.
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I used to solder everyday at work and this is how I would do it. Soldering>everything else
That's the best way I know of to make wiring terminations. I use the same method on the starter lug connections on class 8 road tractors. Those cables have to carry a lot of current and see a lot of adverse weather on the trucks that head north in the winter.
Nice and probably the best way!!!!
Wow! Talk about the right hack at the right time. This was a perfect fix for my kayak, Thanks Steve and to top it off the Air Force is first today!
lol! Is the Air Force a branch of the military? Never heard of it...
Loved eating in their mess hall when we would road march from Fort Ord to Camp (then) Irwin in the 70s. Great food!
@@KayakhacksFishing Everyone in the Army knows the Air Force! We are the guys you call every time you need a ride some where when you can't drive there! Plus it is pretty tough to be an Airborne Ranger when the Army has no planes to jump out of! These day I don't see the Infantry marching across the pond very often! Not that they would not try it but the Air Force is always willing to help out their older brothers. Go Air Force! ;) lol
@@artkitzmiller957 lol! I actually love the Air Force. They were key to keeping my father and his troopers alive when they were fighting at LZ Xray in the Ia Drang valley - Vietnam 1965. Cheers!
Awesome video, thanks for the help!
You bet!
My quick connects from Bass Pro had butt splices attached to wire and rubber sleeves over them. I cut rubber sleeves off so I could solder them, after I used crimpers (I’m an electrician, so have some but could have used hammer or vice) to squeeze them down on wire, then wrapped a layer of electrical Rubber tape (overkill) and finished them with standard electrical tape. Been over five years with no problems.👍 I use the exact same type magnifier with clips rig you have to hold all my soldering projects together while working. Have a great one Steve!
Thanks for the tip on Bass Pro!
Is your mess still sitting there?
Mess? In 8 years I haven’t seen a single one done better or cleaner. I put well over two hundred miles a year on my kayak. Not one single problem. I’m going on a 40 mile run this weekend. Happy Thanksgiving..Don’t eat too much turkey! 🦃😂
Looks like a plan , set the hook brother, watch that weather be safe
Thank you for this video good man!
Glad you liked it!
Thank you👍🏻
I have used a inverter hooked to my car battery for years with the quick connects. Never pull the wire; always the quick connect. Great recommendation.. You always have great ideas.
This is exactly how I did mine.
I did the same thing for the winch hook up on my truck over 10 years ago. Still holding strong.
I believe solder is the best way for nearly all saltwater electrical wire connections. I started doing that after a couple of connections corroded and I had to re-strip and wrap the wires onto terminals while we were out on the water (not fun). It was for the Lowrance GPS/sonar and I was lost... er... I mean exploring, and we couldn't have found our way back in the dark without the thing 😋
lol! I've spent time exploring as well!
Sticking a cold wire into a melting pool of solder usually leads to a cold solder joint. It's usually better to heat up the wire also.
Thank you for that tip!
If you're running 10 gauge wire, you can use 45 amp Anderson Power Pole connectors instead of the SB120 series shown here. The 45 amp rating is better matched to an electric kayak application than the 120 amp rating of the larger ones. In addition, the contacts are easier to attach to the wires, though you do need a crimping tool. I designed 3D printed housings for the Power Pole connectors to make them waterproof. Check them out on my channel. There are links to the CAD files so you can make them for yourself. At this point there are inline connectors, 2 styles of straight bulkhead connectors, and a 90 degree bulkhead connector. The intent being to have fully waterproofed electrical connections throughout the kayak.
Thank you very much for that advice
I've always just crimped them on because those are actually "crimp connectors" anyway. I've had mine on my truck plow for 10 years without any problems. I'll have to try the soldering idea if I ever need to install a plug again.
Dont get any better than that. Thanks
I am happy to find your video. I have a trolling motor for my SeaEagle inflatable raft. I want to put the battery in the front of the boat but perhaps sometimes want to put it in the back of the boat if I have passengers. I am wondering will these quick connect sockets work? After I'm done boating do I just unclip them from the engine side? DO they connect and disconnect easily. I was sorry to see this video end so quickly. I'm knew at this. THanks, Tom
Yes, they work great and are easy to connect and disconnect. Keep them out of the water, though - they are not waterproof
I actually watched the video he talking about 2 days ago. I've been seeing mixed messages on soldering the quick connects
Just go with your gut.
Do you recommend any particular type of solder?
I recommend lead-free or silver alloy. Lead based solder will work, but has health issues.
Quick question. What size wire are you using and where did u get to.? Also the connectors?
I looked at the size of the wire coming out of the motor and matched it. In this case, it was 10 AWG. I got the marine wire at West Marine and a hardware store that has marine supplies. Unfortunately, Lowes/Home Depot do not carry marine wire.
If anyone is looking for that connected you can research Anderson Powerpoles
Thanks for the reference!
Hi I solder all of my quick connect terminals. But now while out on the brackish St John river in Jacksonville two have failed. had to paddle home.
I am using a 12 v 55amp Weize bat with 10 Gage multi strand copper wire and controlled with Continuous current: 60 amp PWM. and a 45lb trolling motor I have a pic looks like the corroded. What solder did you use ?
I just used generic electrical solder from Lowes. You may have found a real problem!
I used silver solder then coat the terminal with OX guard from Lowes to prevent oxidation out on the Hi seas
@@michaelstachura1118 Thanks
Is there a fuse in those quick connect gizmos?
No, I had to add one
Quick question do you actually use those same quick Connects with the trolling motor without a trolling motor plug?
I'm not sure what you mean. The wires from my motor run to the quick connect. I have quick connects on my battery to plug them into.
@@KayakhacksFishing quick connect your trolling motor? Without a plug?
@@justintimeforbass Sorry, still confused. My trolling motor does not have a plug on the motor head. The wires run from the trolling motor to connect to the battery. I put the quick connect on the end of those wires and then put a quick connect on the two wires coming from the battery. Then, I just plug the quick connects together to make everything run.
Hi,
Yes, I always use marine grade multi strand wire. Do some research on the difference between regular wire and Marine Grade wire and you will find it rewarding.
I also put the heat shrink tubing on the connection ends with the (internal sealant) that activates when you apply the heat gun to the tubing. The sealant seals around the wire and squirts out the ends of the heat shrink and keeps the exposed wire marine grade or not from developing corrosion.
FORGET THE SOLDER AND ALL THAT SAFETY EQUIPMENT!
I also use the Anderson Power Pole connectors on various Boat Wiring. They offer a special crimping tool and connector system. When properly crimped with their tool (not cheap but worth every penny) the connector is securely to the wire. The have color coded plug housings that fit together and are polarity sensitive so you can't hook them up backwards when properly installed. The connectors I use have 3 sizes of terminals i.e. 15,30,45 AMP and they all fit into the same external color coded housing. Best thing since sliced bread. Ha Ha
Check out their website www.andersonpower.com/us/en.html
They have tons of accessories that help you build custom plug connections. I built a custom interlocking plug for my charging system on my Minn Kota 315D charger that has 3 each 2 prong housings for a total of 6 housings that are all interlocked together as one plug. They even have a method of inserting pins in the plugs to keep them from unplugging during operations. You will find visiting their website and checking out all the wiring connection possibilities will give you a good education on proper wiring techniques. I thank my friend Phil Krug for the information that has greatly helped me do effective wiring on my boating projects. I WISH I HAD FOUND THEM YEARS AGO.
Hope this is of some help.
John
Thank you very much for those points and tips
Helps if you use the correct crimper as well, you really need a ratchet crimper.
Good point!
What are these connectors actually called? Brand name?
They are made by a number of folks. "Quick Connect" is the generic name. Here is where I got mine - amzn.to/3ptDlvM
@@KayakhacksFishing awesome! Thanks so much!