Our LBS mechanic can't solve the leaking issue on my 105 brakes. He already tried to bleed the brakes thrice and the issue still persist. I think the o-ring might be the problem as the mineral oil is leaking in the right piston. Do you know how the leaking issue can be solve?
@@JD-iy3nc if there is a leak of some sort it can be a warranty issue. It could be something wrong with the caliper. But I would go about checking the bleed port screws to make sure there are o rings there. There are some troubleshooting methods like leaving the shifter closed and then pushing fluid into the caliper to see if you see a leak. But it needs to be a process of elimination
GC - If I am upgrading to 8100 from 7000 105 and changing out my calipers can I reuse my existing hose? Can I just connect the syringe and pull back to remove the fluid before removing the old caliper and not making a mess. Then just new barb and olive on both sides of the line?
I'm a little confused, the manual specifically says not to depress the brake lever when adding fluid with the syringe. you did exactly what the manual says not to do, can you explain why?
Great vid. Piece of advice. 91% rubbing alcohol works better as a solvent than 70%. Although 70% is excellent for that use, it is actually more effective as disinfection versus acting as a solvent.
Best bleeding video I saw! Before that in other videos, I really got confused, but following this guide just worked great! Brake power so much better again now, thank you!
Fantastic Instructional video on bleeding the new Shimano Ultegra 8170 hydraulic brakes! I have been doing bike maintenance for 40+ years (think Campy Neuvo Record and Renolds 531 frames). This video is exceptional - so many other videos (and I have seen more than a dozen) forget or gloss over key steps that can lead to real problems. You have renewed my faith in online bicycle maintenance videos.
:) thank you for that, that was my biggest thing for youtube was to explain it every step because I have watched videos before on topics I dont know and I feel like sometimes the presenter just assumes and doesn't show the full steps I try to make it as easy as possible
I used this as a guide to bleed my brakes after fitting an integrated aero bar and it worked great. Much more straightforward to the point than other videos out there.
This video makes this process seem so much less daunting. Will probably try this myself. Thank you! Also I love the "If you don't want to give it a thumbs up, I dont care."
Thank you for the video. This is the best I've ever watched on how to bleed Shimano brakes, and I've watched a lot of them. Alcohol is not my friend either...."Yeah." You have earned a like and follow.
Great video - you did an amazing job highlighting the minor design faults in the previous product generations compared to the new ones, as well as where and how to be carful to avoid problems. Excellent!
Far and away the best video I found for this after extensive searching. Really great at explaining every step along with potential mistakes and advised solutions. Please keep making bike maintenance/installation videos 🍻
hahhaha yes I know, headset jobs use to be a 10 min in and out thing, now we have to have them drop off the bike for a day and it costs 2 brake bleeds, and also if th ehose is not long enough then we have to re cable the bike lol
Thanks for this video, made it very easy to bleed my 105 Di2 brakes. Originally tried watching the Park Tool video but it seemed overcomplicated and was hard to follow, this was much easier. Only thing I'd add to the video (unless I missed it) is to rotate the bike in the stand while pumping the brakes to get rid of any extra air bubbles. I did that and there was many more air bubbles that came out.
This is the best Shimano Hydraulic brake bleed video out there and the only 12 speed Ultegra 8100 series hydraulic disc brake bleed video. Well done! How will I know how much mineral oil I require to insert to the syringe for the front and rear disc brakes? Appreciate your answer very much 🙂
Pro Tip I've started doing, when I do the alcohol bath, I use one of those throwaway paint brushes and do a brush/scrub, then soak it again, let it all drip off, dry, and you're good. Then demote that brush to cleaning duties elsewhere that isn't as crucial. They've made bleeding brakes so easy now, and I preventatively bleed once a year, and that's with 600 hours of riding/training/racing on my bikes. If you just have to flush through, it's cake.
makes sense, I wil use that next time, I just have ran into some stuck ass pistons before form corrosion from florida but i will start with the tire lever first
Thank you for awesome detailed video! I have bled a lot of brakes (bikes, motorcycles) and now on my new bike I had to change handlebars (Ultegra R8100). That included disconnecting hoses, cut, new olive and barb. When I reinstalled hoses back the front brake was firm as a freshly bled brake but the rear was a bit strange so I tried ziptiying levers over night. Front no problem but the rear has a bit strange feel on the lever. Front brake is nice and stiff and when releasing, the lever feels nice, slow and plush on the way back. The rear brake however is lovely firm (I rebled the system by your method), but the feel on release is very "quick" and feels a bit rattly, clicky and not that slow/plush when releasing the lever like before/like front brake. I cannot explain this sensation much better but I hope you can understand. Just asking, if something could happen to the lever, or if maybe the hose was connected badly? Or if it is just normal? Thank you again.
You are very welcome. Thank you very much!! Also yes I have seen hoses when they are connected sometimes the olive doesn’t crimp right. Also anytime you reconnect hoses make sure you use a new barb and olive.
Hi, Great video, sharp & clear. Also well instruction and info. Hope to see a video with swap of road bike dropbar from normal dropbar to integrated dropbar. Should need to bleed out all caliper fluid before install new integrated (external) dropbar.
Before you push brake piston to reset them there is a very very good practice to do which I highly recommend! Unscrew bled port in your brake hood first and then push/reset pistons. There is a risk to destroy membrane in brake lever if the hydro system is closed.
So I was wondering about this on my Ultegra hydraulic R8070 as I've had issues after pressing my pistons in. But if I did rupture whatever is inside the lever assembly I'm assuming it would be leaking and no pressure possible. But I have no idea of the actual internal assembly and it appears to be a sealed non-serviceable assembly.
@@jorgevillalon5209 it has been a while I tried so many things but as I recall I had to bleed both ends. The caliper had trapped air; used my bike stand to invert bike keep caliper up top so bubbles would rise. Used syringe at caliper end and then I eventually got all the bubles out. Eventually all air was out and brake lever become tight. So nothing was ruptured. So after it was correctly bled it enabled the pistons to retract under fluid vacuum. No need to lubricate the pistons they are ceramic and the seals act like springs to retract but if there is trapped air then they do not pull back from the rotor.
Was looking forward to seeing this. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid. Excellent job. Thought the new calipers were supposed to allow more clearance between the disc and pads....
Nice. I dont see the tilting front and rear of the handlebar or bike to make the brake burp, as shown in the Shimano instructions. This makes it fir a simpler procedure. So the bike or handlebar is just kept with the lever port levelled, right?
Nice job. What if the brake handle has too much travel or the front and back brake levels are not exactly the same. What and how do I adjust to get them to squeeze identically?
try rebleeding and getting more fluid or sometimes depending on the lever they have a reach adjustment on there, just google your shifter and reach adjsutment and it should help
I've seen a few other shimano hydraulic brake bleed videos which recommend not using the syringe but doing a gravity bleed from the cup at the top through the caliper at the bottom. is there any reason you wouldn't use a gravity bleed?
Hey man, great Video. For me the way the brake lever took to the breaking point is way too long .. imho. Thats also what I notice yesterday when I try to bleed my shimano 11 speed. I thought the result was not satisfying and tried it again and again. I dont know if its the real breaking point or it that some air is still in the system.
Great instructional video, thanks. Question: I've just picked up a new bike and the right (front) 9200 lever has about twice the travel as the left (rear). I've adjusted the reach of both to be the same but the front compresses much more than the rear. Still works fine, but they aren't equal. Could this be that the initial setup of the bike has air in the line, and should I look to use your excellent tutorial to fix that, or are there stroke adjustments somewhere?
You just pushed a bobble inside the system that will have to go through the whole length, on the previous group R8000, R9100, bobble got easily "lost" into the lever and had to move the whole bike up and down to make them go, I hope that for the new one it's better / easier.
@GCPerformance18, broke my shimano 8170 brake lever, i have a replacement on the way. Do i need a special tool to disconnect and reconnect the hydraulic brake line?
Hi and thanks for a really instructional and helpful video. I’ve a question and should start by saying I’m in the UK, so left shifter / lever controls the REAR brake (and front derailleur. Shimano 8170 levers and brake cartridges. Bled the front (right lever, short hose) no issues, nice and easy. But the rear (left lever, longer hydraulic hose) is really tough - even with the release (pinch) bolt really undone, it is almost impossible to push the syringe plunger down. It was easy for the front brake, fluid ran up and bubbles came out with little effort. But the rear is just not the same. Any suggestions? Many thanks!
Hi there, thanks for the video. I followed your steps and installed the front caliper R8170. However, I found there is oil leaking out from the front bleeder screw. I tried to tight it further with 4N force with a torque wrench but it still leaks. Any thought or recommendation how to fix it? Thanks mate!
make sure the screw is not cross threaded, if there is not a correct seal it can leak, also check to make sure there is a rubber oring on the end of the bolt, that can cause it to not seal properly
Hello, I bleed new Shimano 105 12s hydraulis front breaks in new bike. The handle sticks (i mean and does not work smoothly when rebounding) . do you know what could be the reason?
re bleed it or look for something that is clamping th ehose sometimes when you tighten something that holds the hose tot he frame it can cause a bind on the hose which can cause it to not work well and release slow or pull slow
Why does park tool's video on bleeding have a section where they bleed out brake fluid from the bottom and quickly open and close the bleed port? But this video doesn't. Trying to understand the purpose of that step.
Hi there, saw in your video that the pistons are black. Normally they are white and made of ceramic. Does Shimano now install resin piston ? Thx in advance for your reply. Alex
Are you not going to bleed the air out of the system by tilting the bike as per Shimano install instructions. I always get lots of air out by using this method.
Bro, can you do a video which shows how to replace an internally routed handlebar with a di2 12 speed system. (you did a similar video for sram red on a sl7) Basically I bought a new bike with dura ace di2 system but came with a 42 cm internally routed aero handlebar, this bar is too wide for me and I want to swap it with a 38cm without bleeding or doing anything else to a brand new system. Really appreciate your consideration here. I come from a place where there aren't any mechanics or shops that is experienced to handle dura ace systems with internal routing cables.
Just did this. You will still have to bleed the system because when you pull the lines out through the old handlebar and push them into the new one you are going to splash some fluid out of the hose, even if just a small amount. Because of this you will have to bleed the brakes just as he did in this video, no way around it. Also, be careful when you cut the hose...cut as little as possible. You will have to cut it because the screw pushing the olive on will not pass through your handlebar holes. You really only need to cut just behind where the barb is installed. If your bike does not have extra hose in the frame you could easily have a situation where the hose won't reach the new bars.
I have a new disc road bike that I haven't even ridden yet. I turned my bike upside down for a few hours, now my brakes are scrubbing do I need to bleed my brakes
Sometimes when you flip bikes, air that’s trapped inside certain curves or spots in the shifters are able to move out and now the pressure is off. Give the brakes a couple of pumps and see if it goes back to normal. If it doesn’t then take it in for a bleed
my Ultegra R8070 ceramic pistons are sticking i.e. not retracting after changing pads and bleeding. I have read about cleaning and lubricating the pistons with mineral oil but that seems counter intuitive as the piston seal essentially acts as a spring to grip the piston to retract. Any thoughts?
I have done this before with like a spray lube like mucoff mo94, i spray the pistons and then I work hold a metal wrench on one psiton and pump the brake and try to get one piston to move a little, I will see some movement and then shove it back in and repeat this same thing on the other piston, I have un frozen a lot of pistons like this and then after I will spray down with alcohol and dry up
@@GCPerformance18 thanks I tried that and it actually improved but not 100%. They still drag momentarily. I just found a Shimano document for 8070 calipers stating not to remove the pistons so time to cut my losses brakes are too important and I just ordered the 8170 caliper which is supposed to include new lo3 pads, has the newer bleed design as you showed, and is documented as compatible with 8070 levers.
@@GCPerformance18 there are 2 different type of pad axel on the 8170 & 9270 8170 is the Allen key type 9270 is the flat screw driver type So the question is are the 8170 Allen key type able to use on 9270 ?
@gc performance if you are super careful about not spilling mineral oil,is it okay NOT to use the bleed block to have a firmer feel at the lever? Thanks
There's a set volume inside the hydraulic line and reservoir, it's not supposed to be exceeded. When you push your pistons back with that much fluid, you'll break the hydraulic fluid reservoir membrane too.
any questions you have let me know down below!!!
What type of content do you NOT post?
Our LBS mechanic can't solve the leaking issue on my 105 brakes. He already tried to bleed the brakes thrice and the issue still persist.
I think the o-ring might be the problem as the mineral oil is leaking in the right piston.
Do you know how the leaking issue can be solve?
@@JD-iy3nc if there is a leak of some sort it can be a warranty issue. It could be something wrong with the caliper. But I would go about checking the bleed port screws to make sure there are o rings there. There are some troubleshooting methods like leaving the shifter closed and then pushing fluid into the caliper to see if you see a leak. But it needs to be a process of elimination
GC - If I am upgrading to 8100 from 7000 105 and changing out my calipers can I reuse my existing hose? Can I just connect the syringe and pull back to remove the fluid before removing the old caliper and not making a mess. Then just new barb and olive on both sides of the line?
I'm a little confused, the manual specifically says not to depress the brake lever when adding fluid with the syringe. you did exactly what the manual says not to do, can you explain why?
First-timer here. I watched this video all the way through, then step-by-step as I performed the procedure. It worked! Thanks for the clarity.
thank you so much you are very welcome
Not only one of the best bike how-to videos on UA-cam, but one of the best how-tos period. Absolutely excellent work.
OH my god thank you so much for that :)
Great vid. Piece of advice. 91% rubbing alcohol works better as a solvent than 70%. Although 70% is excellent for that use, it is actually more effective as disinfection versus acting as a solvent.
thanks so much and yes we usually had the heavier stuff but I think puiblix was out lol
This is a clutch video. Switched to 12 speed yesterday and bled my own brakes at home with the help of your video. Keep up the good work!
thank you for watching!!!
Best bleeding video I saw! Before that in other videos, I really got confused, but following this guide just worked great! Brake power so much better again now, thank you!
Fantastic Instructional video on bleeding the new Shimano Ultegra 8170 hydraulic brakes! I have been doing bike maintenance for 40+ years (think Campy Neuvo Record and Renolds 531 frames). This video is exceptional - so many other videos (and I have seen more than a dozen) forget or gloss over key steps that can lead to real problems. You have renewed my faith in online bicycle maintenance videos.
:) thank you for that, that was my biggest thing for youtube was to explain it every step because I have watched videos before on topics I dont know and I feel like sometimes the presenter just assumes and doesn't show the full steps I try to make it as easy as possible
I used this as a guide to bleed my brakes after fitting an integrated aero bar and it worked great. Much more straightforward to the point than other videos out there.
Thank you very much for the compliment and thank you for watching
This video makes this process seem so much less daunting. Will probably try this myself. Thank you!
Also I love the "If you don't want to give it a thumbs up, I dont care."
:) Thanks so much!!! have a god night!!!
Thank you for the video. This is the best I've ever watched on how to bleed Shimano brakes, and I've watched a lot of them. Alcohol is not my friend either...."Yeah." You have earned a like and follow.
hahah thank you very much!!
Great video - you did an amazing job highlighting the minor design faults in the previous product generations compared to the new ones, as well as where and how to be carful to avoid problems. Excellent!
Thank you very much for watching and I am glad you enjoyed
Far and away the best video I found for this after extensive searching. Really great at explaining every step along with potential mistakes and advised solutions. Please keep making bike maintenance/installation videos 🍻
Glad you enjoyed it! nit means so much to me
Brilliant video. To the point step-by-step no BS guide on how to bleed Shimano 12-speed Road disc brakes…. Perfect 👌🏼
Glad you liked it!
Just ordered my first disc brake equipped road bike. Found this doing my due diligence tech check. Excellent tutorial.Cheers!
Glad it helped!
New to bleed disc brakes. This video explained everything i needed to know.
Thank you
Do you have a video for drop bars?
Thanks so much, this is for drop bars what do you mean?
I'm sorry I meant a video for bleeding Shimano disc brakes on a flat bar bike.
Great video. I have to do BOTH calipers every time I want to clean the headset on my sworks SL8 😂.
3 min now takes 50-60 mins.
hahhaha yes I know, headset jobs use to be a 10 min in and out thing, now we have to have them drop off the bike for a day and it costs 2 brake bleeds, and also if th ehose is not long enough then we have to re cable the bike lol
Thanks for this video, made it very easy to bleed my 105 Di2 brakes. Originally tried watching the Park Tool video but it seemed overcomplicated and was hard to follow, this was much easier. Only thing I'd add to the video (unless I missed it) is to rotate the bike in the stand while pumping the brakes to get rid of any extra air bubbles. I did that and there was many more air bubbles that came out.
yes you are right that is a huge thing to do, helps a lot, to get all those bubbles stuck
It's a pity we can't fit a syringe at the top and push/pull to get everything out.
Incredible video, I managed to bleed the brakes on my new bike so easy! Thanks
Glad it helped!
It was the nipple “Yayyyy” for me. Love your videos. Best non-mtb channel out there. And I don’t even own a road bike lol.
Hahaha thank you!!!
Wow, very well done. Love the attention to detail.
Thanks so much!!
Great walk through! Thanks for the detailed and informative video!
you are very welcome
Thank you! Internet is full of Shimano bleed videos with the old port, not the new system found on the 12 speed.
:)) you are very welcome
VERY good video. Easy and friendly explanations. Being new to disc brakes, this helps me a lot! Thank you!
Glad it helped
Awesome. Started two other videos that were all over the place. Found yours, boom, done! Thanks man 👍
awesome!!!
I’m so happy there’s now a flood gate instead of the oil line twisting with ever lock and unlock 🙌
same here, I hated the old one
This is the best Shimano Hydraulic brake bleed video out there and the only 12 speed Ultegra 8100 series hydraulic disc brake bleed video. Well done! How will I know how much mineral oil I require to insert to the syringe for the front and rear disc brakes? Appreciate your answer very much 🙂
Pro Tip I've started doing, when I do the alcohol bath, I use one of those throwaway paint brushes and do a brush/scrub, then soak it again, let it all drip off, dry, and you're good. Then demote that brush to cleaning duties elsewhere that isn't as crucial. They've made bleeding brakes so easy now, and I preventatively bleed once a year, and that's with 600 hours of riding/training/racing on my bikes. If you just have to flush through, it's cake.
Great video! Concise, clear description and good camera work. Thank you!!
you are very welcome thank you for watching
Thank you chief...a real huge help on how to bleed my new DA R9170 brake caliper
you are very welcome
Great how to video! The new bleed valve arrangement looks heaps easier to manage!
It is!
Outstanding video. Meticulously explained. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
Whoever put the “uc-Off” after the “F” in Fox is a comedic genius.
hahahhaha
Terrific - Clear, Concise, and Helpful 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! I find a poly-plastic Pedros tire lever a safer tool to push back the pistons than anything metal.
makes sense, I wil use that next time, I just have ran into some stuck ass pistons before form corrosion from florida but i will start with the tire lever first
I cracked a stuck Grx ceramic piston with a metal tool.
Awesome video. Explained well. Thanks
You're welcome!
Thank you. I just have bleed my brakes thanks to your video
You're welcome
Really helpful,I've got 105 di2 so this is great 👍
you are very welcome
Thanks to your video, super helpful, new skills unlocked.
hahahaha attribute point achieved
Thank you for awesome detailed video!
I have bled a lot of brakes (bikes, motorcycles) and now on my new bike I had to change handlebars (Ultegra R8100). That included disconnecting hoses, cut, new olive and barb. When I reinstalled hoses back the front brake was firm as a freshly bled brake but the rear was a bit strange so I tried ziptiying levers over night. Front no problem but the rear has a bit strange feel on the lever. Front brake is nice and stiff and when releasing, the lever feels nice, slow and plush on the way back. The rear brake however is lovely firm (I rebled the system by your method), but the feel on release is very "quick" and feels a bit rattly, clicky and not that slow/plush when releasing the lever like before/like front brake. I cannot explain this sensation much better but I hope you can understand. Just asking, if something could happen to the lever, or if maybe the hose was connected badly? Or if it is just normal?
Thank you again.
You are very welcome. Thank you very much!! Also yes I have seen hoses when they are connected sometimes the olive doesn’t crimp right. Also anytime you reconnect hoses make sure you use a new barb and olive.
Thanks for a great and easy tutorial 🙂
You’re welcome 😊
Great video, perfectly explained 👏🏼
Hi, Great video, sharp & clear. Also well instruction and info. Hope to see a video with swap of road bike dropbar from normal dropbar to integrated dropbar. Should need to bleed out all caliper fluid before install new integrated (external) dropbar.
Before you push brake piston to reset them there is a very very good practice to do which I highly recommend!
Unscrew bled port in your brake hood first and then push/reset pistons.
There is a risk to destroy membrane in brake lever if the hydro system is closed.
I reckon that's when the hydraulic line has too much fluid in it, but it is a good idea indeed. I do that sometimes.
So I was wondering about this on my Ultegra hydraulic R8070 as I've had issues after pressing my pistons in. But if I did rupture whatever is inside the lever assembly I'm assuming it would be leaking and no pressure possible. But I have no idea of the actual internal assembly and it appears to be a sealed non-serviceable assembly.
@@halfglassfull hi, I’ve had the same problem as you, did you find a solution to it? Would ve very helpful, it’s driving me crazy
@@jorgevillalon5209 it has been a while I tried so many things but as I recall I had to bleed both ends. The caliper had trapped air; used my bike stand to invert bike keep caliper up top so bubbles would rise. Used syringe at caliper end and then I eventually got all the bubles out. Eventually all air was out and brake lever become tight. So nothing was ruptured. So after it was correctly bled it enabled the pistons to retract under fluid vacuum. No need to lubricate the pistons they are ceramic and the seals act like springs to retract but if there is trapped air then they do not pull back from the rotor.
@@halfglassfull thanks! I’ll have to bleed it and if it’s still spongy I might take it to my local bike shop to see what they can do about it.
Great video and explanation. Thanks. I did drop the pot when unscrewing it doh!
you are welcome
Thanks for the video, instructions for the New Shimano brake bleed are hard to find.
Glad it helped
Was looking forward to seeing this. Thanks for taking the time to make this vid. Excellent job. Thought the new calipers were supposed to allow more clearance between the disc and pads....
Lmao yea that was just the staff who ever built this one maybe did a lazy job. It’s just an easy adjustment
Great video. This is a job I need to do on mine as the brake lever has a big dead zone from new 😫
Best of luck. Should be very easy
Great video m8 thank you...just doing a new build and followed your tips.
Glad I could help
Thank you for those explanations !
My pleasure!
Fxxx, I stripped the bleed screw. You are so true. :(
lmao it is okay you can stil get out
Always clean the caliper rubber rings before resetting the
Nice. I dont see the tilting front and rear of the handlebar or bike to make the brake burp, as shown in the Shimano instructions. This makes it fir a simpler procedure. So the bike or handlebar is just kept with the lever port levelled, right?
One of the most complete videos I have seen.
Thank you :)
Thanks for the great guide!
Nice job. What if the brake handle has too much travel or the front and back brake levels are not exactly the same. What and how do I adjust to get them to squeeze identically?
try rebleeding and getting more fluid or sometimes depending on the lever they have a reach adjustment on there, just google your shifter and reach adjsutment and it should help
Thanks for the vid. Could you tell me the part number of the newer bleed kit.
Many thanks 🙏🏻
TL-BR002
Bro ! This video saved me … damn new screw to release air…🙃
hahaha I am glad I helped
I've seen a few other shimano hydraulic brake bleed videos which recommend not using the syringe but doing a gravity bleed from the cup at the top through the caliper at the bottom. is there any reason you wouldn't use a gravity bleed?
I have the syringe and all the materials. This is just the correct way to do it and flush out the old fluid too
You the man!
Hey man, great Video.
For me the way the brake lever took to the breaking point is way too long .. imho. Thats also what I notice yesterday when I try to bleed my shimano 11 speed. I thought the result was not satisfying and tried it again and again. I dont know if its the real breaking point or it that some air is still in the system.
it could be air in there, the 11 speed is notoorious for holding small air bubbles in those shifters try moving the bike around as bleeding
Great instructional video, thanks. Question: I've just picked up a new bike and the right (front) 9200 lever has about twice the travel as the left (rear). I've adjusted the reach of both to be the same but the front compresses much more than the rear. Still works fine, but they aren't equal. Could this be that the initial setup of the bike has air in the line, and should I look to use your excellent tutorial to fix that, or are there stroke adjustments somewhere?
Yes it is the initial Setup maybe more fluid spilled out while connecting the hoses. Sounds like it just needs to be re bled
You just pushed a bobble inside the system that will have to go through the whole length, on the previous group R8000, R9100, bobble got easily "lost" into the lever and had to move the whole bike up and down to make them go, I hope that for the new one it's better / easier.
they are evry easy to remove
@GCPerformance18, broke my shimano 8170 brake lever, i have a replacement on the way. Do i need a special tool to disconnect and reconnect the hydraulic brake line?
Yea you need to install a new olive and barb. You need to get those tools for that
Excellent video - thank you!
Thank you very much
Lever got soft and followed your walk through and they are still soft?? Could the reach be off??
There has to be air someone in there still try the process again
where do you get a hex-keyed bolt for the brake pads? mine came with a crappy flathead bolt
they come on the new 12 speed bleed
Thanks buddy. Very helpful. 😎👍🏻
No problem 👍
Do you have a tutorial for sram?
I do not, shoudl I make one?
Hi and thanks for a really instructional and helpful video. I’ve a question and should start by saying I’m in the UK, so left shifter / lever controls the REAR brake (and front derailleur. Shimano 8170 levers and brake cartridges. Bled the front (right lever, short hose) no issues, nice and easy. But the rear (left lever, longer hydraulic hose) is really tough - even with the release (pinch) bolt really undone, it is almost impossible to push the syringe plunger down. It was easy for the front brake, fluid ran up and bubbles came out with little effort. But the rear is just not the same. Any suggestions? Many thanks!
Super clean brake fluid.. 😎
Hi there, thanks for the video. I followed your steps and installed the front caliper R8170. However, I found there is oil leaking out from the front bleeder screw. I tried to tight it further with 4N force with a torque wrench but it still leaks. Any thought or recommendation how to fix it? Thanks mate!
make sure the screw is not cross threaded, if there is not a correct seal it can leak, also check to make sure there is a rubber oring on the end of the bolt, that can cause it to not seal properly
@@GCPerformance18 thanks for the tips. I think the thread on the caliper is damaged. Will replace with a new one
Hello, I bleed new Shimano 105 12s hydraulis front breaks in new bike. The handle sticks (i mean and does not work smoothly when rebounding) . do you know what could be the reason?
Maybe the barb and olive that is connected at the hose is not installed right on
PERFECT VIDEO LETS GOO
Although I haven’t gotten my new parts yet haha
Hello 🖐🏻️,, ooohyeeh.. Why when pressing the brakes this brifter when back to slow,, thank.
re bleed it or look for something that is clamping th ehose sometimes when you tighten something that holds the hose tot he frame it can cause a bind on the hose which can cause it to not work well and release slow or pull slow
Why does park tool's video on bleeding have a section where they bleed out brake fluid from the bottom and quickly open and close the bleed port? But this video doesn't.
Trying to understand the purpose of that step.
Is that for a sram video? For sram dot fluid there is a spot where you need to bleed the caliper
@@GCPerformance18 It's the shimano one, called "How to Bleed Hydraulic Brakes - Shimano Drop Bar Levers". The second step starts at around 6:15.
Do you have any video on di2 12 speed install and tuning ?
no but I will make one
Hi. Thanks for the video. Are the bleed blocks specific to the new calipers or are the old bleed blocks the same? Thanks
they are a better fitting version but they work in the old versions too, and also the old ones work in the new ones as well
@@GCPerformance18 I just used the old one to bleed the new calipers. No issues.
Do the brakes have gears?
yea they do
“It’s never my friend…” hahahahahaha
Lmaooo
Hi there, saw in your video that the pistons are black. Normally they are white and made of ceramic. Does Shimano now install resin piston ?
Thx in advance for your reply.
Alex
What about one way bleeding / gravity bleeding, can that work? I see some mechanics do that and avoid dealing with a syringe
Are you not going to bleed the air out of the system by tilting the bike as per Shimano install instructions. I always get lots of air out by using this method.
can you do a video how to tune a new RD on a bike?
electronic or mechanical
di2 please! thanks@@GCPerformance18
#2K 🎉 nice Video, thx!
hell yea
Question on altitude my front disk brake was useless 0 stomping power any Ideas why?
sound slike it needs a bleed, sounds like no fluid
@@GCPerformance18 thanks !!
will the new lever bleed port screw with 2.5mm work on previous 2mm version? Assuming it would as you are using same funnel.
I would have to assume so, I cant remmebr right now but if it is the same funnel then yes lol
Meanwhile us retrogrouches with rim brakes are riding 20km down the road with just a hex wrench and a clean floor to come home to. 😉
trueeee
Bro, can you do a video which shows how to replace an internally routed handlebar with a di2 12 speed system. (you did a similar video for sram red on a sl7)
Basically I bought a new bike with dura ace di2 system but came with a 42 cm internally routed aero handlebar, this bar is too wide for me and I want to swap it with a 38cm without bleeding or doing anything else to a brand new system.
Really appreciate your consideration here. I come from a place where there aren't any mechanics or shops that is experienced to handle dura ace systems with internal routing cables.
Just did this. You will still have to bleed the system because when you pull the lines out through the old handlebar and push them into the new one you are going to splash some fluid out of the hose, even if just a small amount. Because of this you will have to bleed the brakes just as he did in this video, no way around it. Also, be careful when you cut the hose...cut as little as possible. You will have to cut it because the screw pushing the olive on will not pass through your handlebar holes. You really only need to cut just behind where the barb is installed. If your bike does not have extra hose in the frame you could easily have a situation where the hose won't reach the new bars.
I have a new disc road bike that I haven't even ridden yet. I turned my bike upside down for a few hours, now my brakes are scrubbing do I need to bleed my brakes
Sometimes when you flip bikes, air that’s trapped inside certain curves or spots in the shifters are able to move out and now the pressure is off. Give the brakes a couple of pumps and see if it goes back to normal. If it doesn’t then take it in for a bleed
I tried giving the brakes a pump, I even took the pads out and checked the pistons, bleeding the brakes is the only option I have left. 😊
Should you do anything different for the rear?
Tilt the bike up slightly in the stand so the cable has a continuous upslope for bubbles to rise out.
follow the same procedure,
my Ultegra R8070 ceramic pistons are sticking i.e. not retracting after changing pads and bleeding. I have read about cleaning and lubricating the pistons with mineral oil but that seems counter intuitive as the piston seal essentially acts as a spring to grip the piston to retract. Any thoughts?
I have done this before with like a spray lube like mucoff mo94, i spray the pistons and then I work hold a metal wrench on one psiton and pump the brake and try to get one piston to move a little, I will see some movement and then shove it back in and repeat this same thing on the other piston, I have un frozen a lot of pistons like this and then after I will spray down with alcohol and dry up
@@GCPerformance18 thanks I tried that and it actually improved but not 100%. They still drag momentarily. I just found a Shimano document for 8070 calipers stating not to remove the pistons so time to cut my losses brakes are too important and I just ordered the 8170 caliper which is supposed to include new lo3 pads, has the newer bleed design as you showed, and is documented as compatible with 8070 levers.
Hi… what size is that brake pad axel screw & can it be use on 9270 dura ace ?
what do you meanj?
@@GCPerformance18 there are 2 different type of pad axel on the 8170 & 9270
8170 is the Allen key type
9270 is the flat screw driver type
So the question is are the 8170 Allen key type able to use on 9270 ?
What about GRX 820 rear flatmount bramę? 😀I cant bleed it 😮😮
I have not seen it yet in person I have to wait
Make one for Sram please 🙏 Thank you!
@gc performance can these new calipers be added to an older hydro/di2 setup? I’ve heard that there’s way more clearance for pads on the new calipers
yes I did this
how do i know if the bleed kit im buying is the 'new one'? Do I need m7 or m5 for 8150?
this is it www.bicyclegeneration.bike/product/shimano-tl-br-professional-disc-brake-bleed-kit-401806-1.htm you need m7 for road brakes
@gc performance if you are super careful about not spilling mineral oil,is it okay NOT to use the bleed block to have a firmer feel at the lever? Thanks
There's a set volume inside the hydraulic line and reservoir, it's not supposed to be exceeded. When you push your pistons back with that much fluid, you'll break the hydraulic fluid reservoir membrane too.
Plus it'll rub with an overfilled system
What bar tape is that?
scott syncros
@@GCPerformance18 thanks matey, ordering some now.
The bleed port bolt nut is M7 ?
yes it is
What about the rear ?