This is probably the clearest video I have seen of how to bleed hydraulic disk brakes, having watched this I now feel much more confident in tackling the task! I am about to work on a friends, straight-bar bike, but the principal's the same (more or less). I was cursing for offereing to give their bike the once-over, but now I feel far more up to the job. Fingers crossed.
This is the only video that actually encouraged me to do it by myself and I have! Thanks a million. Didn't have a kit however (but did have the funnel and a pipe), so I got a medical syringe from the pharmacy and chucked in a 10 mm allen key instead of a blocker. Cost me a fraction of what I would have to pay for a kit where I live.
This is now my favorite cycling channel, literally relaxes me just to put it on and listen to you give tips on bike maintenance. I never get tired of it,very relaxing. Thank you.
@@ribblevalleycyclist No. keep doing exactly what you’re doing. Also the sound quality is great. I’m also going to finally tackle a brake bleed. Great stuff.
Will do. The brake bleed is easy. Make sure you've got everything you need before you start, take your time, watch out for those air bubbles, and most of all, enjoy doing it yourself 👍. Let me know how you get on. Jon
Hi Mark, So pleased you found the video useful and that you’ve done it yourself and seen an improvement. That’s the reason I make them. Got a few more on the way 👍 Thanks, Jon
Thanks for a clear and concise explanation, with wit. I have changed the pads on my Dutch bike but yet to bleed . I wasn't aware the pistons where plastic, I had assumed aluminium.
Well...... technically, I think they're ceramic. Probably should've explained that point a bit better. But you're right, they're not metal! Glad it was useful
Most useful video I've seen in a long time! I have a bike with Tektro discs that is overdue for a brake bleed. I have checked the Tektro website, and those, too, need mineral oil. I wouldn't have thought to ask before watching this video. You saved me a LOT of frustration.
Appreciate the tip at the end about adding a bit more fluid and operating the lever a few times to push the pistons out some to meet the disk after using the bleed block. I was losing my mind after re-bleeding 4 times and still not getting good pressure!
Great video. Thank you. I changed to disc brakes as I was looking to invest in some deep carbon rims and was fed up with wearing out rims during wet winter rides. My disc carbon rims will now last for the length of the bike.
Best video ever..... Not sure about that 😂. Glad you found it helpful, it's always great to hear that someone has found my content useful. Thanks for watching. Jon
I worked on the tools for Shimano with the Great Alan Hewitt (sadly no longer with us) Martin Clark now full time with his brother at VeloSport and Jon Hargreaves at 24 hour events World cup and World Championships and all sorts of other events. I would give you ten out of ten on that, well done, even not editing out the bloopers.
Great tips - just did Tektro brakes following this. The hardware is a little different but the principle is exactly the same. Thanks for making the job a breeze.
Finally a working method mate! Thank you so much, I was fighting with my GRX 400 brakes for 2 days because of another stupid youtube video. You saved my day! Cheers
Hi iBiZa Smurf, Glad it helped. That's the trouble with UA-cam. I use the 4 video rule...... if they all say the same thing, then it's probably right!! Thanks for watching. Jon
Great video - it's interesting that several people now have done the inject from the bottom without draining first technique. The official Shimano manual states to drain old fluid first and then introduce the new, but this method is definitely less faffy!
GREAT video. Nice tips and tricks and I like that you didn't edit that brake rub out, because I did the same thing on my mtb rotor and had to try 6 times to correct it LoL. Nice job .
I just used this video and the Epic Bleed Solutions Shimano kit (£15.99) to replace the mineral oil in my Shimano 105 front hydraulic disc brake. The kit included everything to do the job and this video gave me the confidence to do the job myself. The key is to take your time and this video is well paced although I paused the video whilst doing each step myself. The proof will be in the road test but if I get back without brake failure then I'll be doing the rear brake next 😊🤞
@@ribblevalleycyclist heya Jon, just got back from a 30 mile road test and front brake was much better so now onto the rear brake. Presumably it'll need a drop more fluid for the rear as its got further to go ? Cheers Kev
Hi KCRCR, Good to hear the first one went well. The front is always easier, because most of the pipe faces upwards, so the air comes out easier. The back can be a little more difficult to get the air out, as there is less pipe facing upwards. It's common to see bike builders leave the bike on the stand at an angle, and the funnel on overnight, to let the air escape. And yes, it uses more...... roughly 50% more. Good luck with it 👍 Jon
Awesome vid well done!!! Liked your tips with the pad retaining bolt.I recently watched a youtube from zoubTube and he recommends getting rid of the dirty brake fluid in reverse because all the dirt enters the system from the caliber and you don't want to push all the crap into your lever which makes sense to me!So you fill the funnel and only put a little bit of fluid in the syringe and pull all the crapy fluid into the syringe.All the other steps are done exactly like your method.Cheers!!
Hi Glenn, Great tip! If I'm honest, I agree with you. It makes much more sense to do it that way. However, Shimano, and the industry generally recommends the other way because pulling the fluid down from the funnel is reliant on the individual putting enough fluid in the funnel to begin with, and not sucking a shed-load of air into the system. Pushing the fluid from a syringe upwards prevents this kind of error. Sometimes you need to allow for..... well, you know!!!! I suppose it's a bit like a car beeping loudly to say the door is open....... because the massive hole on the side of the car isn't warning enough 😀. Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful. Jon
I learnt how to do it and even the experienced bike mechanic in my self-help workshop picked up a few tips when I did it there. Since then I've been selling a few kits, with a bleed block that works as a combination tool for pushing the pistons back and a few other simplifications. And I give this video to those who buy a kit, because it is the best help despite the countless videos. PS: But the Shimano stuff isn't the best parts to do the job in my experience and that makes it unnecessarily expensive. Only the original oil should be used in any case.
Really good and clear video, just done mine (last did them 2 years ago and I'd forgotten how haha). One thing I found difficult was to get the angle of the bike enough to get the air to rise out of the back brake line (GRX600). It worked for me to take the calliper right off the frame and let it dangle so that it was thus the lowest part of the system. Also, GRX600, it's not a 2.5 Allen, it's a Torx15 to take the cap off the reservoir. I found out the hard way
Take the calliper off…… blumin’ genius idea that! Will be borrowing that one 😂😂 Yeah, as I say in the video, bleed port location and tool size does vary. Probably should’ve mentioned Torx though.
I’ve watched quite a few of these videos and one thing I don’t understand is why you don’t simply fill reservoir at top, open bleed nipple on calliper and hand pump fluid through until all air bubbles are out. This is how I have done it in the past on MTB’s and the theory is similar on cars (I E built track cars and installed brake systems in the past). Just seems like a lot of faffing and I’m not sure why 😅 Not a criticism just an observation. Nice video btw. I know a lot of riders complain about disc brakes and they can be a PITA with the rubbing and noises and faffing with bleeding them etc (if hydraulic).
I'm watching this due to it being my first time trying, but I would guess that since air travels upwards, you won't get as much air out if you're just doing it from the top? I also have the exact same question and haven't found any good answer
Mu son-in-law was having problems with his disc brakes (I have rim brakes) so my daughter asked me for advice. I had no idea so I watched this video. Seems well thought out. Will recommend to my son-in-law. If he still has problems, I have another job to do. Great video. Thank you.
Another brilliant video. I am about to build a Gravel bike & its proving to be a steep learning curve as today I discovered today that I need new Sram wheels to fit the cassette I have bought. I have learnt just like Campag you can't really mix & match. Anyway that's the gearing and rather than drops I am going to fit straight bars with Shimano brake levers so even though you were fitting different levers your video will make it so much easier for me. I am pretty sure I will have to keep viewing it on my phone though when I am doing it. Can I be checky & ask you how you fit the barb in the line because I really don't want to buy the Shimano tool as its a one off job for me. Thanks again.Ted
Hi 2 Wheels. If you're careful, you can just lightly clamp the hose, and then tap them in. I also use a pretty cheap tool in this video, go give it a look if you have time: ua-cam.com/video/vrcWDxyqsM0/v-deo.html Good luck with the build 👍
I use an old tooth brush to clean outside and inside the caliper, also the handle makes a great tool for pushing the pistons back (also alcohol is my cleaner of choice)
Am I the only one for whom it doesn't work (for rear)? I do it as you describe, the syringe only presses against the pressure in the system and not the oil into the system. Thanks for the best video, you‘re the only one who has my bleed screw at the hoods
Good tip I heard is Bleeding it from top to bottom, especially if the brakes have not been taken care of for over a year, because doing it the usual way you basically get dirty oil through the entire system.
My front bolt slightly seized and I was honestly surprised that shimano doesn't grease it from factory (these were brand new calipers untouched until my first service). Added grease and now it has been easy to undo.
did my first shimano brake bleed and used the instructions in the dealers manual for bleeding. i was worried that when i did the first squeeze after remounting the wheel and pads, the lever sank all the way but it did stiffen up after a pump or 2. i wasn't sure if that was normal but it looks normal in your video.
@@ribblevalleycyclist what happens inside the hydraulics as the pistons push in with actual brakes pads vs the block? does a bubble form in the lever? why not remount the wheel and pads after cleaning up the caliper and keep the cup with fluid on and squeeze again to stiffness before removing cup and cleaning up? is the space a buffer for fluid expansion in hot weather but what if it's cold?
I just tip it on next doors roses 😉…. Just kidding. You need to check with your local recycling centre as to whether they accept used oil or hydraulic fluids.
Hi Steve, It is easy, give it a go. You can get rid of the old oil by taking it to your local waste disposal or recycling centre. Thanks for watching, Jon
Excellent demonstration. Thanks for sharing. In some demos I have seen some people actually pressurise the hydraulic system after bleeding by forcing a little more oil in from the caliper end while keeping the top port closed. Is that a useful final step in your experience? You mention topping up after priming the system with the wheel and pads back in. Perhaps that would do the same thing?
Hi Andy, Glad you found it useful. A fantastic question. Pressurising is a thing, and can sometimes be beneficial. It can overcome excess lever travel where a lever doesn't offer free stroke adjustment (search YT for it). The downside is that it can send the pressure to the brake piston, and therefore cause pad rub. Hope that helps, Jon
Hi Yeh, Thanks, glad you like it. It's not easily answered, time, riding conditions and mileage all play a part. The best advice anyone can give is to consider bleeding if you have either spongy brake performance, or poor braking. Also, it's good practice to change every few years anyway. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching, Jon
Brilliant channel! Instant like and subscribe! Made my brakebleed a breeze!!! Gonna buy that Greasegun asap. What Grease do you use? Looking at the colour it might be the Shimano Premium one?
Hi Rory, Glad you liked it, and welcome onboard 👍 This is what is in there right now: amzn.to/45KcfWS But I also use this: amzn.to/3YWyJ4O Both are good, but the Park stuff is the best.
Really clear video thank you! - looking to get some advice, I’m swapping my rear 105 road calliper from BR-R7070 to BR-R7170 - question: I will need to change the olive, however do I need to change the insert as well? I'm looking to avoid cutting the hose unless absolutley necessary
Glad you like it. If it's normal nuts/bolts exposed to the elements, then yes. However, on the braking system, don't use grease on the bleed nipples or ports, as it may contaminate the system. Oh, and the best thing to use to prevent galvanic corrosion is Copper Grease. I use this one: amzn.to/3QhD4vc Thanks, Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist Thanks for your answer. I have Shimano GRX brakes. Some say that bolt is already protected from galvanic protection, and it is no need to use grease. Others say that any grease is ok, I heard also that some use litium grease.... It is little confuse for begginer as I am. What is your opinion? Thanks.
Love all your videos, have done all my hoses based on your videos. I went to bleed the brakes but of a snag. I can’t get four into the front calibre no matter how hard I press on syringe. I have isolated it to the brake lever…calibre or hoses not blocked but no oil will go through the brake into the reservoir: any ideas?
Something is blocked somewhere. You need to isolate where the blockage lies. It’ll be the calliper, the hose, or the lever. It’ll be a messy job, but you need to work out which one is blocked. Disconnect the hose at both ends, and see if you can push fluid through both the calliper and lever. If you can, then maybe the link between the hose and the calliper/lever. Hose barb issue maybe. If it passed through the lever and calliper okay, replace the hose/barb/olive.
Thanks so much, I isolated it to the lever, I bled from the reservoir down and push back up which seemed to unblock it, I then proceeded to bleed from the calibre, all done, v satisfying, keep up the great work with the vids…they v good 👍
I always use screw driver, the really big one and I always wrap it in electrical tape to make it soft and use it to push the pistons. Works like a charm every time and I never damaged anything. Just use common sense, be careful and don't use sharp edges or unnecessary force.
I found a much much simpler way to bleed the system and you don't even have to remove the wheel. All you need is the Bleed cup you have there, a trigger spray device from any spray bottle, and about a foot or two of clear hose to fit on the bleed screw at the caliper. No syringes or bleed block. Just fill the cup with fresh fluid and pump the trigger into a waste container. Be sure not to let the cup get low with new fluid. Keep discharging fluid until all the bubbles are gone and your done. A 15 minute process guaranteed to work perfectly.
Quick question. Would you recommend topping up the fluid again after bedding the new brake pads in? The fluid reservoir seems kind of small and I would guess the fluid level in it drops quite a bit after seating the new pads on to the disc. Thanks.
Hi Petcatznz, Very good question! When fitting new pads, you would push the pistons back into the caliper to accommodate the new thicker pads. So, theoretically, you shouldn't need to bleed. However, if you think the lever travel is excessive, or feels spongy, then it may be worth doing. Hope that helps. Jon
Jon, excellent demonstration of this procedure, though I have just one question as I have never dealt with hydraulic brake system. For the front you filled the syringe 3/4, however I assume that that will not be sufficient in case doing the rear as the tube/hose is longer and volume is larger. What would be your recommendation for filling it when doing the rear brake, full? Thank you for your advise in advance.
Well done about as good a video of this work as I have seen. Getting ready to fo same with install of Ultegra 12 speed on Lynskey Pro GR, soon as fluid and discs show up.
@@ribblevalleycyclist H plus son Hydra with White Industries hubs. But bought for the Industry Nine I35 wheels I use for road mainly. Building up with Ultegra 12 speed now. Hope 160 front and SRAM 140 in rear.
Thank you ! Looking at some “big boys” videos on UA-cam i was nervous about doing it myself however you explained with such care and attention i am going to try doing it on my MTB. One question i have is do i need to keep slightly excess fluid in syringe downstairs so that when i am pumping the lever air doesn’t get in ? Also the bolt at caliper is open when pumping lever ? Cheers
Hi, Montu, Glad you've found this useful. You shouldn't need to add more fluid into the syringe at the caliper end, as pumping the lever will drawer fluid from the funnel end. Also, there should still be a little bit in the syringe pipe from when you pushed the3 fluid in. The problem with adding more fluid into the syringe, is you may also accidentally add air into the system. Hope that helps.
do you prefer this method or a gravity bleed? I'm about to replace a brake hose because I'm putting the rear brake from a different bike onto another bike and the hose isn't long enough. I've watched other videos and it seems a gravity bleed might be the easiest method when doing a brake hose replacement.
The 'Official' Shimano way is to push up to the lever, that why I did it that way in this video. However, pulling down to the calliper, or gravity works just as well. Air bubbles go up, and that is why Shimano say you should bleed up..... push in the direction of the bubbles. As long as you get the fluid in and the air out, I don't suppose it matters. I've done a video on hose replacement: ua-cam.com/video/4Ean3P2yUaQ/v-deo.html
No need to, the path is already open for the fluid to pass through the whole system. You only pump the lever when you need to encourage the trapped air in the lever to come out.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I think it's fine because I ge slight movement when I close the levers. I think the issue is still with my calipers though. My caliper has the same star screw has the levers. I can fit a funnel to the caliper but there is no valve to open and close.. I think my best option would be to get a new set of calpiers unless there is another method.. I thanks. I'm current using my front brake lol. :)
is it wrong to do it the opposite way? I mean using the syringe to pull the oil from the funnel and if any dirty oil comes into the syringe, close the circuit at the brake caliper, empty that syringe, reattach it, open the circuit then add more oil into the funnel and continue
Hi Comedyman112, No, not at all. The main task is to replace the oil without adding air. There is no reason you can't go the other way. Tip though, keep an eye on the supply at the top.... you don't want it to run dry and pull in loads of air!! However, when it comes to getting the air out, you'll still need to follow the standard process. Hope this helps. Thanks, Jon
Great video. 👍 What is the recommended brake fluid change in mileage? I’ve done over 13,000 mile on my Giant Defy and no problems with the brakes apart from several pads
Hi Mike, Thanks, glad you liked it. Good question. To be honest, I personally don’t think there is a definitive answer to this one. The issue is moisture and contamination, but if neither happen, do you need to even replace it? If you ask an expert like Park Tool for example, they’ll say once a year. Not sure about that though, because you may only do 100 miles in a year!! The fluid in that bike was over 3 years, and 7500 miles. It still worked, but had lots of travel, and was a little bit spongy. This would be by advice to anyone asking this question, if it’s got lots of travel it’s probably lost a bit, top it up and evaluate. If it’s spongy, it’s probably contaminated, just replace it. If it’s over 2 years or 10k, consider replacing it anyway. Thanks, Jon
Glad you enjoyed it. I’d say do it when it starts to feel spongy or performs poorly. That one I did in the video had covered 7k miles, and it was still working, albeit poorly!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
This is probably the clearest video I have seen of how to bleed hydraulic disk brakes, having watched this I now feel much more confident in tackling the task! I am about to work on a friends, straight-bar bike, but the principal's the same (more or less). I was cursing for offereing to give their bike the once-over, but now I feel far more up to the job. Fingers crossed.
Hi Michael, glad you’ve enjoyed it. Just keep an eye on your brake fluid type, and check the funnel fitment size on those flat bar levers. 👍
This is the only video that actually encouraged me to do it by myself and I have! Thanks a million.
Didn't have a kit however (but did have the funnel and a pipe), so I got a medical syringe from the pharmacy and chucked in a 10 mm allen key instead of a blocker. Cost me a fraction of what I would have to pay for a kit where I live.
Thanks, Xagnak, glad you found it useful. Those are good tips, like it 👍
An absolute masterclass demonstration! Thank you for the video and the time that you have spent on the production👏👏👏
Thank you, Hitesh, that’s very kind of you 👍
This is now my favorite cycling channel, literally relaxes me just to put it on and listen to you give tips on bike maintenance. I never get tired of it,very relaxing. Thank you.
Hi Rickysee,
That is great to hear. Maybe I should start one of those relaxation therapy channels 😀
@@ribblevalleycyclist No. keep doing exactly what you’re doing. Also the sound quality is great. I’m also going to finally tackle a brake bleed. Great stuff.
Will do. The brake bleed is easy. Make sure you've got everything you need before you start, take your time, watch out for those air bubbles, and most of all, enjoy doing it yourself 👍. Let me know how you get on.
Jon
Bob Ross of Bike Mechanics ❤
The Joy of Painting….. Loved watching that in my teens. Don’t think anyone will ever be as cool or smooth as Bob. Thanks 👍
One of the best channels for learning bike maintenance!🎉👍😎🚲
Wow, thanks! 👍
best practical bleeding instructions I have seen !
Thanks Zeeshan, glad you found it helpful. 👍
Never bled my brakes before, but will do it every time now. Made it so simple. Like a new bike! thank you.
Hi Mark, So pleased you found the video useful and that you’ve done it yourself and seen an improvement. That’s the reason I make them. Got a few more on the way 👍
Thanks, Jon
Thank you! Elaborate explanation, both interesting and helpful! I really like your presenting style. Thanks again.
Thanks Imper, glad it was helpful!
Got one coming up on stopping squealing disc brakes...... watch this space!!
Jon
Thanks!
Thank you 👍. Will grab a coffee on the next ride ☕️
I watched this to refresh my memory on how to brake bleed and came back for the pure bicycle maintenance ASMR ❤😂
Thanks for a clear and concise explanation, with wit.
I have changed the pads on my Dutch bike but yet to bleed .
I wasn't aware the pistons where plastic, I had assumed aluminium.
Well...... technically, I think they're ceramic. Probably should've explained that point a bit better. But you're right, they're not metal!
Glad it was useful
Most useful video I've seen in a long time! I have a bike with Tektro discs that is overdue for a brake bleed. I have checked the Tektro website, and those, too, need mineral oil. I wouldn't have thought to ask before watching this video. You saved me a LOT of frustration.
Glad it helped, Andrew. Good luck with the brake bleed 👍
Like the video in video. This gives at the same time detail and overview
Glad you like it, because it’s a massive pain in the ar$e to do 😂
Watched several brake bleed videos..this is the best, great tips and detailed instructions. Good advice on tools and equipment.
Thanks, John, glad to hear you found it useful. 👍
I have been looking at all videos on Brake Bleed and this video is the best one.
Thanks, Jerry 👍
Thanks, this worked a treat for me, end result is better than my last professional service
Great news, glad it was of help 👍
Great video. Excellent delivery, clear and concise instructions on disc brake maintenance and bleeding. Thank you.
Thanks for the nice feedback, Clive, appreciate it 👍
Excellent video Jon, very clear instructions. This has giving me the insight to complete the task myself.
Glad it was helpful! Let me know how you get on 👍
Appreciate the tip at the end about adding a bit more fluid and operating the lever a few times to push the pistons out some to meet the disk after using the bleed block. I was losing my mind after re-bleeding 4 times and still not getting good pressure!
Glad it helped 👍
You’re a legend. Perfect mix of funny and informative
Thanks Brett, glad you enjoyed!
Got one coming up on stopping squealing disc brakes...... watch this space!!
Jon
Great video. Thank you.
I changed to disc brakes as I was looking to invest in some deep carbon rims and was fed up with wearing out rims during wet winter rides. My disc carbon rims will now last for the length of the bike.
It's the main reason I too moved from rim to disc. I will never forget the day I put a set of £500 rim brake wheels out for the bin truck!
Best video ever. Im a mug at maintenance but got this to work first time. Brakes perfect now. Thanks!
Best video ever..... Not sure about that 😂. Glad you found it helpful, it's always great to hear that someone has found my content useful.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
Thanks Jon - definitely clearest one I've seen. Well done.
I worked on the tools for Shimano with the Great Alan Hewitt (sadly no longer with us) Martin Clark now full time with his brother at VeloSport and Jon Hargreaves at 24 hour events World cup and World Championships and all sorts of other events. I would give you ten out of ten on that, well done, even not editing out the bloopers.
Crikey, thanks 👍
Please do a video on how to do the back brake. That one always gives me fits!
Great tips - just did Tektro brakes following this. The hardware is a little different but the principle is exactly the same. Thanks for making the job a breeze.
Agreed, the hardware is a little different, but the principle is exactly the same. Glad it helped 👍
Finally a working method mate! Thank you so much, I was fighting with my GRX 400 brakes for 2 days because of another stupid youtube video. You saved my day! Cheers
Hi iBiZa Smurf, Glad it helped. That's the trouble with UA-cam. I use the 4 video rule...... if they all say the same thing, then it's probably right!!
Thanks for watching.
Jon
Best spent half hour of my life :) Thanks a bunch for a great video, so many good tips.
Glad it helped!
Excellent video! Great pace. Great content!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video - it's interesting that several people now have done the inject from the bottom without draining first technique. The official Shimano manual states to drain old fluid first and then introduce the new, but this method is definitely less faffy!
great and easy to understand explaination, encouraging
Glad you found it useful 👍
Thanks for sharing this knowledge , some things I just let the store do but this is a great and clear explanation .
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Hey Jon, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us. You explain the job you are doing in detail. Very educational video. 🤜
GREAT video. Nice tips and tricks and I like that you didn't edit that brake rub out, because I did the same thing on my mtb rotor and had to try 6 times to correct it LoL. Nice job .
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it 👍
The best and really functional tutorial that I followed to get it right. Unlucky for the service mechanics, they won't be able to afford bread...😆
I just used this video and the Epic Bleed Solutions Shimano kit (£15.99) to replace the mineral oil in my Shimano 105 front hydraulic disc brake. The kit included everything to do the job and this video gave me the confidence to do the job myself. The key is to take your time and this video is well paced although I paused the video whilst doing each step myself. The proof will be in the road test but if I get back without brake failure then I'll be doing the rear brake next 😊🤞
Hi KCRCR, Glad you found the video useful 👍
Thanks,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist heya Jon, just got back from a 30 mile road test and front brake was much better so now onto the rear brake. Presumably it'll need a drop more fluid for the rear as its got further to go ?
Cheers Kev
Hi KCRCR,
Good to hear the first one went well. The front is always easier, because most of the pipe faces upwards, so the air comes out easier. The back can be a little more difficult to get the air out, as there is less pipe facing upwards. It's common to see bike builders leave the bike on the stand at an angle, and the funnel on overnight, to let the air escape. And yes, it uses more...... roughly 50% more.
Good luck with it 👍
Jon
Awesome vid well done!!! Liked your tips with the pad retaining bolt.I recently watched a youtube from zoubTube and he recommends getting rid of the dirty brake fluid in reverse because all the dirt enters the system from the caliber and you don't want to push all the crap into your lever which makes sense to me!So you fill the funnel and only put a little bit of fluid in the syringe and pull all the crapy fluid into the syringe.All the other steps are done exactly like your method.Cheers!!
Hi Glenn, Great tip! If I'm honest, I agree with you. It makes much more sense to do it that way. However, Shimano, and the industry generally recommends the other way because pulling the fluid down from the funnel is reliant on the individual putting enough fluid in the funnel to begin with, and not sucking a shed-load of air into the system. Pushing the fluid from a syringe upwards prevents this kind of error. Sometimes you need to allow for..... well, you know!!!! I suppose it's a bit like a car beeping loudly to say the door is open....... because the massive hole on the side of the car isn't warning enough 😀.
Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful.
Jon
Great step by step guide and solved (hopefully!) my spongy brake issue. Cheers!
Glad it helped!
I learnt how to do it and even the experienced bike mechanic in my self-help workshop picked up a few tips when I did it there. Since then I've been selling a few kits, with a bleed block that works as a combination tool for pushing the pistons back and a few other simplifications. And I give this video to those who buy a kit, because it is the best help despite the countless videos.
PS: But the Shimano stuff isn't the best parts to do the job in my experience and that makes it unnecessarily expensive. Only the original oil should be used in any case.
outstanding tutorial, thanks a lot. this time i think i finally got it
Glad it helped 👍
Great video - thanks for taking the time to provide the details.
My pleasure!
Very well done sir! Most through explanation I’ve seen!
Cheers, John, appreciate it 👍
Fantastic; just subscribed, thanks so much for the effort that went into this vid.
My pleasure, glad you liked it. Thanks for the sub 👍
absolutely amazing contents. You convinced me to try and do it myself !
You can do it!
Really good and clear video, just done mine (last did them 2 years ago and I'd forgotten how haha). One thing I found difficult was to get the angle of the bike enough to get the air to rise out of the back brake line (GRX600). It worked for me to take the calliper right off the frame and let it dangle so that it was thus the lowest part of the system. Also, GRX600, it's not a 2.5 Allen, it's a Torx15 to take the cap off the reservoir. I found out the hard way
Take the calliper off…… blumin’ genius idea that! Will be borrowing that one 😂😂 Yeah, as I say in the video, bleed port location and tool size does vary. Probably should’ve mentioned Torx though.
I’ve watched quite a few of these videos and one thing I don’t understand is why you don’t simply fill reservoir at top, open bleed nipple on calliper and hand pump fluid through until all air bubbles are out. This is how I have done it in the past on MTB’s and the theory is similar on cars (I E built track cars and installed brake systems in the past). Just seems like a lot of faffing and I’m not sure why 😅 Not a criticism just an observation. Nice video btw. I know a lot of riders complain about disc brakes and they can be a PITA with the rubbing and noises and faffing with bleeding them etc (if hydraulic).
I'm watching this due to it being my first time trying, but I would guess that since air travels upwards, you won't get as much air out if you're just doing it from the top? I also have the exact same question and haven't found any good answer
Nice easy clean Good stuff
Glad you found it useful 👍
it’s great when the calliper as bleed nipple, the ones i have in the workshop never seem to have a bleed nipple. thanks for An interesting video
Like the older SRAM ones where you have to screw it in, yeah, not great 😕
Super helpful and easy to follow. Thank you!
You're welcome 👍
This is a two beer video - but very informative!!! Thank You!!
Mu son-in-law was having problems with his disc brakes (I have rim brakes) so my daughter asked me for advice. I had no idea so I watched this video. Seems well thought out. Will recommend to my son-in-law. If he still has problems, I have another job to do. Great video. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this video..absolutely brilliant 👍
Hi Richard, You’re welcome. Hope you found it useful 👍
Great tutorial! I found plastic tire levers work perfect to push the pistons.
They do, as long as they’re good ones that don’t bend. I have two different Park Tool piston tools, yet I still use those long nosed pliers 😂😂
I'm an American and I can understand this guy. A lot of the Brit bike guys are tough to understand.
Thanks, James 👍. If I’m honest, I’ve never thought about that. Saying that though, my UA-cam stats say I get a lot of visitors from across the pond.
It is because he doesn’t have a strong regional accent, Americans struggle with those.
@@time01010 The people in my village would disagree with you on that one, Tim.... "That silly southern softie with those posh bikes" 🤣🤣🤣
best tutorial! thank you very much!
Thanks 👍
Another brilliant video. I am about to build a Gravel bike & its proving to be a steep learning curve as today I discovered today that I need new Sram wheels to fit the cassette I have bought. I have learnt just like Campag you can't really mix & match. Anyway that's the gearing and rather than drops I am going to fit straight bars with Shimano brake levers so even though you were fitting different levers your video will make it so much easier for me. I am pretty sure I will have to keep viewing it on my phone though when I am doing it. Can I be checky & ask you how you fit the barb in the line because I really don't want to buy the Shimano tool as its a one off job for me. Thanks again.Ted
Hi 2 Wheels. If you're careful, you can just lightly clamp the hose, and then tap them in. I also use a pretty cheap tool in this video, go give it a look if you have time:
ua-cam.com/video/vrcWDxyqsM0/v-deo.html
Good luck with the build 👍
Best video ever. Thank you for the help!
Glad you found it useful, and thanks for watching 👍
I use an old tooth brush to clean outside and inside the caliper, also the handle makes a great tool for pushing the pistons back (also alcohol is my cleaner of choice)
Excellent video, thanks!
Glad you liked it! Thanks Tim 👍
Thank you for replying & that's great advice .
Am I the only one for whom it doesn't work (for rear)? I do it as you describe, the syringe only presses against the pressure in the system and not the oil into the system.
Thanks for the best video, you‘re the only one who has my bleed screw at the hoods
Good tip I heard is Bleeding it from top to bottom, especially if the brakes have not been taken care of for over a year, because doing it the usual way you basically get dirty oil through the entire system.
I’ve heard this too, good tip 👍
Just an awesome video.
Thanks 👍
Keep at it!!
Brilliant instructions - I assume the same process applies for MTB as well?
Yes, the fundamentals are the same. Just check fluid type.
Thanks, great vid. Feel confident
Hi Steve, Glad you found it useful. Keep us updated, and let us know how you get on 👍.
Thanks for watching.
Jon
Excellent explanatory skills. Well done. But sorry, you are still second in line behind my man Calvin Jones at Park Tools. 😀👍
Second to Calvin Jones..... I'll take that 🤣
My front bolt slightly seized and I was honestly surprised that shimano doesn't grease it from factory (these were brand new calipers untouched until my first service). Added grease and now it has been easy to undo.
Completely agree, Leslie. Can't stress this point enough. If that bolt seizes, you're buying a new caliper..... and then fitting it!!
Another vote for grease although I prefer to use a trace of high melting point copper grease to remove any chance of contamination due to melting.
Agreed, copper grease is the best option. But good old grease will do, if you don’t have the copper variant.
Loved the Italian Job..
Loved it..... watched it the other day. Oh, and Google this "Italian Job Mini number plates". It's interesting!
@@ribblevalleycyclist brilliant. Keep up the good work.
😁about to change my old callipers for some xt - so should learn how to bleed. thanks for the video
Hi @ BloodyClash, good luck with it. Let us know how you get on. 👍
Thanks for watching,
Jon
did my first shimano brake bleed and used the instructions in the dealers manual for bleeding. i was worried that when i did the first squeeze after remounting the wheel and pads, the lever sank all the way but it did stiffen up after a pump or 2. i wasn't sure if that was normal but it looks normal in your video.
Don't worry, it's normal
@@ribblevalleycyclist what happens inside the hydraulics as the pistons push in with actual brakes pads vs the block? does a bubble form in the lever? why not remount the wheel and pads after cleaning up the caliper and keep the cup with fluid on and squeeze again to stiffness before removing cup and cleaning up? is the space a buffer for fluid expansion in hot weather but what if it's cold?
Nice tips 😊
excellent video... thanks how to u despose the liquid?
I just tip it on next doors roses 😉…. Just kidding. You need to check with your local recycling centre as to whether they accept used oil or hydraulic fluids.
@@ribblevalleycyclist thank you so much
Fantástico!! Y luego donde echas el residuo del aceite ?parece fácil, me has animado a hacerlo yo en mi casa
Hi Steve, It is easy, give it a go. You can get rid of the old oil by taking it to your local waste disposal or recycling centre.
Thanks for watching,
Jon
best video. thanks
Glad you liked it 👍
Excellent demonstration. Thanks for sharing. In some demos I have seen some people actually pressurise the hydraulic system after bleeding by forcing a little more oil in from the caliper end while keeping the top port closed. Is that a useful final step in your experience? You mention topping up after priming the system with the wheel and pads back in. Perhaps that would do the same thing?
Hi Andy,
Glad you found it useful.
A fantastic question. Pressurising is a thing, and can sometimes be beneficial. It can overcome excess lever travel where a lever doesn't offer free stroke adjustment (search YT for it). The downside is that it can send the pressure to the brake piston, and therefore cause pad rub.
Hope that helps,
Jon
I like this Vedio very much ,may I ask how often should I bleed my shimano road disk brake? Or what sign should I have to do bleed the brake, thanks.
Hi Yeh,
Thanks, glad you like it.
It's not easily answered, time, riding conditions and mileage all play a part. The best advice anyone can give is to consider bleeding if you have either spongy brake performance, or poor braking. Also, it's good practice to change every few years anyway.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for watching,
Jon
Brilliant channel! Instant like and subscribe! Made my brakebleed a breeze!!! Gonna buy that Greasegun asap. What Grease do you use? Looking at the colour it might be the Shimano Premium one?
Hi Rory, Glad you liked it, and welcome onboard 👍
This is what is in there right now:
amzn.to/45KcfWS
But I also use this:
amzn.to/3YWyJ4O
Both are good, but the Park stuff is the best.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Thank you for the fast response all Park Tools it is then ! =)
You mentioned a few times the magnetic tray but i seem get more screws on the outside than inside the tray
Re pushing back pistons - I have had a lot of luck using a plastic tyre lever. Seems to do tgd job, and it's softer than metal.
Tyre lever is a great alternative. Great tip 👍
so glad the caliper adjustment didn't work the first time =) happens to me all the time
Really clear video thank you! - looking to get some advice, I’m swapping my rear 105 road calliper from BR-R7070 to BR-R7170 - question: I will need to change the olive, however do I need to change the insert as well? I'm looking to avoid cutting the hose unless absolutley necessary
Hi, chances are, the olive will be compressed onto the hose, so you'll need to cut the hose to remove it. So, you'll lose roughly 1cm
@@ribblevalleycyclist Thank you!
Great channel. I love it. For a bolt do I need any special grease to prevent galvanization corosion?
Glad you like it. If it's normal nuts/bolts exposed to the elements, then yes. However, on the braking system, don't use grease on the bleed nipples or ports, as it may contaminate the system.
Oh, and the best thing to use to prevent galvanic corrosion is Copper Grease. I use this one:
amzn.to/3QhD4vc
Thanks,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist Thanks for your answer. I have Shimano GRX brakes. Some say that bolt is already protected from galvanic protection, and it is no need to use grease. Others say that any grease is ok, I heard also that some use litium grease.... It is little confuse for begginer as I am. What is your opinion? Thanks.
@zblojko Are you talking about the pin that goes through the brake calliper and holds the pads in place?
@@ribblevalleycyclistyes.
Love all your videos, have done all my hoses based on your videos. I went to bleed the brakes but of a snag. I can’t get four into the front calibre no matter how hard I press on syringe. I have isolated it to the brake lever…calibre or hoses not blocked but no oil will go through the brake into the reservoir: any ideas?
Something is blocked somewhere. You need to isolate where the blockage lies. It’ll be the calliper, the hose, or the lever. It’ll be a messy job, but you need to work out which one is blocked. Disconnect the hose at both ends, and see if you can push fluid through both the calliper and lever. If you can, then maybe the link between the hose and the calliper/lever. Hose barb issue maybe. If it passed through the lever and calliper okay, replace the hose/barb/olive.
Thanks so much, I isolated it to the lever, I bled from the reservoir down and push back up which seemed to unblock it, I then proceeded to bleed from the calibre, all done, v satisfying, keep up the great work with the vids…they v good 👍
I always use screw driver, the really big one and I always wrap it in electrical tape to make it soft and use it to push the pistons. Works like a charm every time and I never damaged anything. Just use common sense, be careful and don't use sharp edges or unnecessary force.
Great idea, love that👍. Agreed, common sense is the best tool. Thanks, Jon.
Plastic tyre lever I’ve always used
I found a much much simpler way to bleed the system and you don't even have to remove the wheel. All you need is the Bleed cup you have there, a trigger spray device from any spray bottle, and about a foot or two of clear hose to fit on the bleed screw at the caliper. No syringes or bleed block. Just fill the cup with fresh fluid and pump the trigger into a waste container. Be sure not to let the cup get low with new fluid. Keep discharging fluid until all the bubbles are gone and your done. A 15 minute process guaranteed to work perfectly.
Please explain with more detail. Thanks.
@@garyharrison1322 ua-cam.com/video/iiqJ0QpC8mw/v-deo.htmlsi=sXY10jlXVZMLeUEG
Quick question. Would you recommend topping up the fluid again after bedding the new brake pads in? The fluid reservoir seems kind of small and I would guess the fluid level in it drops quite a bit after seating the new pads on to the disc. Thanks.
Hi Petcatznz,
Very good question!
When fitting new pads, you would push the pistons back into the caliper to accommodate the new thicker pads. So, theoretically, you shouldn't need to bleed. However, if you think the lever travel is excessive, or feels spongy, then it may be worth doing.
Hope that helps.
Jon
Jon, excellent demonstration of this procedure, though I have just one question as I have never dealt with hydraulic brake system. For the front you filled the syringe 3/4, however I assume that that will not be sufficient in case doing the rear as the tube/hose is longer and volume is larger. What would be your recommendation for filling it when doing the rear brake, full? Thank you for your advise in advance.
Hi Hans. You are spot on. I’d say just fill the syringe up all the way and put back in the bottle what you don’t use.
Well done about as good a video of this work as I have seen. Getting ready to fo same with install of Ultegra 12 speed on Lynskey Pro GR, soon as fluid and discs show up.
Glad you liked it, thanks 👍. Titanium gravel bike, very nice 👌. What wheels and disc did you go with?
@@ribblevalleycyclist H plus son Hydra with White Industries hubs. But bought for the Industry Nine I35 wheels I use for road mainly. Building up with Ultegra 12 speed now. Hope 160 front and SRAM 140 in rear.
Nice. I use the Hope floating disc rotors on one of my road bikes, they’re amazing. Good luck with your build.
Thank you ! Looking at some “big boys” videos on UA-cam i was nervous about doing it myself however you explained with such care and attention i am going to try doing it on my MTB.
One question i have is do i need to keep slightly excess fluid in syringe downstairs so that when i am pumping the lever air doesn’t get in ? Also the bolt at caliper is open when pumping lever ? Cheers
Hi, Montu,
Glad you've found this useful.
You shouldn't need to add more fluid into the syringe at the caliper end, as pumping the lever will drawer fluid from the funnel end. Also, there should still be a little bit in the syringe pipe from when you pushed the3 fluid in. The problem with adding more fluid into the syringe, is you may also accidentally add air into the system.
Hope that helps.
Excellent video. But, right shifter to bleed the front brake? Is that a left-handed bike?
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. In the UK, the brakes are that way around.
@@ribblevalleycyclist how did I get to this point in my life and not know that?? Thanks!
I only found out when I went on a cycling holiday in Majorca about 10 years ago. Nearly went over the bars 😂
do you prefer this method or a gravity bleed? I'm about to replace a brake hose because I'm putting the rear brake from a different bike onto another bike and the hose isn't long enough. I've watched other videos and it seems a gravity bleed might be the easiest method when doing a brake hose replacement.
The 'Official' Shimano way is to push up to the lever, that why I did it that way in this video. However, pulling down to the calliper, or gravity works just as well. Air bubbles go up, and that is why Shimano say you should bleed up..... push in the direction of the bubbles. As long as you get the fluid in and the air out, I don't suppose it matters.
I've done a video on hose replacement:
ua-cam.com/video/4Ean3P2yUaQ/v-deo.html
Have you opened bottom, before pumping brakes and leaning bike? Otherwise, very informative
No, close the bottom off first 👍
as you push fluid thru the syringe into caliper, do you simultaneously pump the lever?
No need to, the path is already open for the fluid to pass through the whole system. You only pump the lever when you need to encourage the trapped air in the lever to come out.
@@ribblevalleycyclist but does it hurt to do so?
I had oil leak out when I pushed my pistons back. I'm guessing I have cracked them as they no longer work??
It’ll probably be the rubber seals between the piston and the calliper. Most manufacturers offer replacement seals.
@@ribblevalleycyclist I think it's fine because I ge slight movement when I close the levers. I think the issue is still with my calipers though. My caliper has the same star screw has the levers. I can fit a funnel to the caliper but there is no valve to open and close.. I think my best option would be to get a new set of calpiers unless there is another method.. I thanks. I'm current using my front brake lol. :)
Hello, is this the same process for Shimano 105 Di2 12 speed?
Yes. 👍
is it wrong to do it the opposite way? I mean using the syringe to pull the oil from the funnel and if any dirty oil comes into the syringe, close the circuit at the brake caliper, empty that syringe, reattach it, open the circuit then add more oil into the funnel and continue
Hi Comedyman112,
No, not at all. The main task is to replace the oil without adding air. There is no reason you can't go the other way. Tip though, keep an eye on the supply at the top.... you don't want it to run dry and pull in loads of air!! However, when it comes to getting the air out, you'll still need to follow the standard process.
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist thanks. I've seen it done the other way on other tutorials and wasn't clear.
If I buy the premium kit, I don’t need to buy the shimano funnel and adapter? Is that right. Thanks
Spot on! This is it:
Premium (Adapter included) - amzn.to/47OjnCy
Great video. 👍 What is the recommended brake fluid change in mileage? I’ve done over 13,000 mile on my Giant Defy and no problems with the brakes apart from several pads
Hi Mike,
Thanks, glad you liked it.
Good question. To be honest, I personally don’t think there is a definitive answer to this one. The issue is moisture and contamination, but if neither happen, do you need to even replace it? If you ask an expert like Park Tool for example, they’ll say once a year. Not sure about that though, because you may only do 100 miles in a year!! The fluid in that bike was over 3 years, and 7500 miles. It still worked, but had lots of travel, and was a little bit spongy.
This would be by advice to anyone asking this question, if it’s got lots of travel it’s probably lost a bit, top it up and evaluate. If it’s spongy, it’s probably contaminated, just replace it. If it’s over 2 years or 10k, consider replacing it anyway.
Thanks,
Jon
great video Sir! how often do you reckon one has to bleed the brakes? with a relatively new bike in mind.
Glad you enjoyed it. I’d say do it when it starts to feel spongy or performs poorly. That one I did in the video had covered 7k miles, and it was still working, albeit poorly!