TECH TIP: Bleed Bicycle Disc Brakes Right the First Time Like a Pro!
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- In this video we show you how bleed bicycle hydraulic disc brakes like a pro. The trick to bleeding hydraulic disc brakes is to understand the fundamentals first. In this video we show you the tricks and techniques the pros use to get the job done without fail or fuss.
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The most comprehensive video on UA-cam on how to bleed brakes correctly. I have watched so many videos and could not figure out how to get the air bubbles out of my rear DI2 brakes until now. Thank you so much!
👑
I’ve only seen videos on how to bleed the front brake, I’m glad I came across this video!
We believe that visualization is important when bleeding brakes, and many other tasks. Once you can envision something conceptually, you are ready to get the tools out. It's not knowing the procedure. It's knowing why the procedure works.
Best and most simple explanation so far on YT. Thank you !
Excellent demo. I built something similar to demonstrate to customers how these units function. I also did an indexing unit to show how that works. I used Shimano Deore but the principles are all the same.
Great explanation. A lot of mechanics should see this video.
All the video's are far the best on UA-cam. Thanks for your help !
This is one of the best explanations of what goes on in a brake system. Have you ever played with a vacuum bleed on mtb or road brakes? This will be my next project to improve the quality of bleeds in our shop. Thanks for making this.
We never tried the vacuum method because we've getting first-time, no-mess results with this conventional syringe method. Please let us know if you have success with it.
Gary the Science Teacher!
Thank u so much, this sucking air because of opening the nipple too much is exactly what has been happening in my bleedings, is what I feared.
Great video! Love how you almost yell at us, knowing we have done wrong before.. 😄 #rehearsalwins
Bu bilgi altın değerindedir gösterdiğin örnekteki gibi mantık aynıdır işe yarıyor.
thanks! makes perfect sense
Great tips 👌
Thanks, 🚴
Great demonstration, especially the beginning, to see the principal in action. Question - would that work also with a syringe connected at the pump, instead of a cup? In some videos it seems like we need to bleed both the caliper and the pump, while in others (like in this video), it seems like bleeding only the caliper is enough?
By "pump", we're assuming you mean the lever. With a hydraulic system you bleed the entire circuit at the same time. With our method, this is the case. By starting at the caliper all the air is forced out of the entire circuit at once: the caliper, the line, and the lever. These components cannot be bled separately. Some parts could be "pre bled" to get them almost there, but once assembled you'd need to bleed it again, as shown in the video, to remove all the air regardless.
Why not drop the ass end of the bike leaving the caliper mounted. Then rotate handle bars, so reservoir cup is level. Then push fluid from caliper to cup?
It's very easy to unbolt the caliper. Not sure why everyone wants to avoid something that's so easy.
The first time I've ever heard anyone mention anything about aeration.
I have tried to avoid aeration but no one ever mentions it.
Planning on replacing the mineral oil in my brakes. Would you recommend a gravity bleed first to flush out the old oil, then do the caliper oil injection to bleed the air up towards the lever? My concern is that the old oil might have sediments which a gravity bleed is best to address.
Simply follow the method we show in the video and you can't go wrong. Once you put the bleed block in the caliper it will displace most of the fluid from the caliper. The remnants will be pushed out by the new fluid. Gravity bleeding will not work.
All those so called mechanics swearing by their flawless gravity bleeding "technique" should understand this!
The same orientation of the hydraulic components (ports up) is required for gravity bleeding to work. Gravity pulls the fluid down, but air wants to float up. We'd rather cater to the nature of things rather than fighting it, which is why we push fluid from the lowest point to chase the air up and out. We like the active approach rather than the passive, gravity approach.
Hi.
I'm using the file oil what can I do thanks ❤
Not sure what you mean by file oil. يجب عليك استخدام السائل الهيدروليكي الصحيح
What if there is no bleed port it seems I have only one screw / hole and man is it annoying to work on trying to not let air in and keep oil from getting everywhere
There will be a spot for the brake line, and one for the bleed/fill port. If it's not a bleed port you can hook a hose to, then yes, that's super annoying if you're forced to just catch it all with a rag. What make are these calipers you're working on?
Well explained 👍
Thank you 🙂
Why not rotate the frame in the stand so the bleed port is above the nipple to allow bubbles to exit without removing the caliper? I understand the bleed cup will not be level, but unless one floods the line with excess fluid, the bubbles will exit as the fluid is added.
The principle is to get the air out. If you can figure out a way to do that and it works great for you, do it.
In trying to get it right I think I made my membrane in the lever leak. From the small hole, not from the screws. I tried cleaning the membrane, drying it completely but it still leaks. I bought another, but would you know if there is a typical error that may make the membrane leak?
too much pressure applied
What happen to the air you removed from the caliper after you rotated, you didn’t push it out…;) . Love your bb but as far as bleeding goes your method the way you demonstrated it’s terrible… unless I missed something.Also, if you look at the pistons when you have adapters installed, provided by shimano, they never fully retract. And even if they retract after the very first ride they will push out.
I see what you mean. He's pushing the syringe very slowly in that last bit all while he's talking. It's important not to push the fluid too fast. Air likes a gentle hand to show it to the door.
@@BBInfinite so you just not showing that part, now it makes sense. I rewatched and saw the syringe almost empty on the second shot.
Wow, look at all the roadies, we got disc brakes, hehe, 🚴
😁
If you orientate the frame in the stand correctly you dont need to remove the caliper
It's two bolts.
@@BBInfinite doesn't matter if it's one, two, or ten, it's still unnecessary.
Never seen any mechanic take the caliper off the frame to do a bleed
...and that's a problem. The goal of bleeding is to remove every last miniscule bubble. Any amount of air equals a spongy feel that translates to improper stopping power and modulation.
Probably because your mechanics think it’s not worth their time to ensure a perfect bleed.
“DOT fluid” would be Department of Transportation, i.e., automotive fluid.
I’ve only seen videos on how to bleed the front brake, I’m glad I came across this video!
We believe that visualization is important when bleeding brakes, and many other tasks. Once you can envision something conceptually, you are ready to get the tools out. It's not knowing the procedure. It's knowing why the procedure works
In trying to get it right I think I made my membrane in the lever leak. From the small hole, not from the screws. I tried cleaning the membrane, drying it completely but it still leaks. I bought another, but would you know if there is a typical error that may make the membrane leak?
Replace the parts/membrane/seals where the leak is occurring. It's possible these parts/seals have been compromised in a way you are unaware of.
I guessed that was it thank u for the video, great job! Subscribed