Thanks so much 🙏. It was my first go at dry hopping and having looked for videos of how to do it thought I’d try to make one myself that was to the point and easy to follow. I’ve actually just dry hopped for the second time (not filmed) and would recommend NOT to release the pressure from the main FV before closing the valve and removing the yeast. This avoids mixing the settled yeast and seems to work better. Hope it helps. 👍🏻
I use citra and cascade for this beer i like and one of them sinks while the other floats. I have to pump co2 into the collection vessel just to get it out from under yeast and trub. It definitely makes a noticeable difference in the finished beer, but not everyone can just pump co2 like me.
have you had any issues closing your butterfly valve? Just recently gotten one of these and during water testing had no issues, now that there is beer in there..... can't close it. Any tricks/tips?
I can't say I've had those issues - is there any crud or hops blocking the valve? or maybe the bolt is too tight? I know they are a bit stiff but I think that's a good thing. Hope you get it sorted soon.
I have my very first batch of beer ever currently dry hopping in a 55l fermzilla. Dunno why his valve was already open, but I kept mine closed during fermentation. Added the hops an removed the oxygen the same time I transfered the wort. When sg hit 1.015 I opened the valve an let the hops float up. Beer will be ready in two days and clear after a week in the keg, assuming it makes it that long 😂😂. Pressure fermented a session ipa at 5psi and 72 degrees and cut weeks off the process. From grain to beer in a week instead of 3 or four. In a 5 gallon batch that collection jar is over half full of trub. The way he did it wastes a couple beers. Again, maybe he had a reason for already having the valve open, but if you only have one dry hop addition there's no reason to have it open during fermentation. And if you have more than one hop addition just use bags and magnets to drop in as needed. I won't be removing that collection vessel but once ever
Also just put a gas post on the bottom and a 35psi prv on top. No idea why he has two $20 posts on that collection bin. Gas post on bottom an pull the prv to purge. Co2 sinks so the prv needs to be on top.
@@richardcagle5475 I have the PRV and the gas post installed on the collection jar. My theory is that if I pressurize the jar to a notably higher pressure than the tank, the dry hops will be forced upwards into the tank. Then leave the valve open for trub and yeast to settle in the collection jar.
Actually one of the best videos I’ve seen on dry hopping with the Fermzilla 👌🏻
Thanks so much 🙏. It was my first go at dry hopping and having looked for videos of how to do it thought I’d try to make one myself that was to the point and easy to follow.
I’ve actually just dry hopped for the second time (not filmed) and would recommend NOT to release the pressure from the main FV before closing the valve and removing the yeast. This avoids mixing the settled yeast and seems to work better. Hope it helps. 👍🏻
What do you do about the fact the hops instantly settle out at the bottom of the collection container?
@@fredbepsis7635 most will float to the top, but if some stay behind you can bubble some CO2 through the bottom and that should dislodge them.
I use citra and cascade for this beer i like and one of them sinks while the other floats. I have to pump co2 into the collection vessel just to get it out from under yeast and trub. It definitely makes a noticeable difference in the finished beer, but not everyone can just pump co2 like me.
have you had any issues closing your butterfly valve? Just recently gotten one of these and during water testing had no issues, now that there is beer in there..... can't close it. Any tricks/tips?
I can't say I've had those issues - is there any crud or hops blocking the valve? or maybe the bolt is too tight? I know they are a bit stiff but I think that's a good thing. Hope you get it sorted soon.
Did you do a separate trub dump before the dry hopping ?
Getting my 55l Fermzilla tomorrow, pretty excited about it.
I have my very first batch of beer ever currently dry hopping in a 55l fermzilla. Dunno why his valve was already open, but I kept mine closed during fermentation. Added the hops an removed the oxygen the same time I transfered the wort. When sg hit 1.015 I opened the valve an let the hops float up. Beer will be ready in two days and clear after a week in the keg, assuming it makes it that long 😂😂. Pressure fermented a session ipa at 5psi and 72 degrees and cut weeks off the process. From grain to beer in a week instead of 3 or four. In a 5 gallon batch that collection jar is over half full of trub. The way he did it wastes a couple beers. Again, maybe he had a reason for already having the valve open, but if you only have one dry hop addition there's no reason to have it open during fermentation. And if you have more than one hop addition just use bags and magnets to drop in as needed. I won't be removing that collection vessel but once ever
Also just put a gas post on the bottom and a 35psi prv on top. No idea why he has two $20 posts on that collection bin. Gas post on bottom an pull the prv to purge. Co2 sinks so the prv needs to be on top.
@@richardcagle5475 I have the PRV and the gas post installed on the collection jar.
My theory is that if I pressurize the jar to a notably higher pressure than the tank, the dry hops will be forced upwards into the tank.
Then leave the valve open for trub and yeast to settle in the collection jar.
Why was the valve to the collection jar open to begin with? Didn't you just lose a lot of beer?
he probably wanted the trub to fall in there.
Can’t believe you did that over the regiment 😅
lol - technically it's a Corps not a Regiment. Arte et Marte
Hey! You're losing a lot of head there!
Too much show for a simple dry
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