Idea for a double dry hop: use the kegland karbonation cap for pet bottles on the cup. Fill with your first dry hop and use as suggested. When the time comes for the second dry hop, close the butterfly valve, connect the output of the karbonation cap with the beer post of the fermzilla. Use co2 on the 2nd post of the karbonation cap and push the beer out of the cup and into the fermzilla. Remove the cup and repeat like first dry hopping.
The trick of using the ferment CO2 gas to purge the corny keg of air is bloody brilliant... when you have 6 kegs washed, sanitised and needing purging that’s a lot of gas blowing out. Using the 60 litre fermentation gas to run in series with the sounding valve at the end of the line kills every bird with the one proverbial stone. Mate... borderline genius... cheers champ...!! 🥰😍😆😎
you have been an inspiration matey, watched your vids over last couple months,and took the plunge into buying fermzilla gen3, and switch from pressure barrels to cornys,brewed for 20 years+(partial mash) wow im converted, just done 1st closed transfer,and 1st pressure ferment, where have i been lmao, greetings from good old pom land(prisoner of mother england)
Great video! Do you have experience with bottling from the fermzilla directly? I wonder if the carbonation is enough after bottling. How to even control the carbonation in the beer?
Thanks. Very helpful. Just doing my first brew in the fermzilla. Learned something that others might find handy. I tried to dry hop as per your method but couldn’t get the collection bottle to seal. At first thought I’d not tightened it enough but, after stuffing around a bit, I realised it had to be the seal. Took it off and checked the size of the seal and realised the one I had on was slightly smaller than another seal i had in the kit I’d bought. Put that one on and it’s fine. They both fit but obviously (now) the smaller one was stretched out too much to seal properly.
I like your style sir! Thanks for the tips I just got a Fermzilla, and an all round, as a pipe welder the equation is- diameter times pi times length divided by CFH = #minutes you need to purge. IMHO A few minutes would evacuate almost all oxygen. Slower purge would be best, too fast may create a vortex which would continually mix oxygen into the CO2 Cheers mate!
i know im asking randomly but does someone know a way to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost my password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Vincent Adriel thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Great video, and tips. I had trouble getting the collection bottle off, until I watched your video. Fermzilla is way better than the Fermentasaurus even though it was good for the time. I put 3 oz dry hopping with no problems. Can’t wait to taste my first batch in a few days.
Gash Great Vid and helpful again, I have dropped the pressure in the collection bottle using a picnic tap before unscrewing to avoid the shower. I picked up a tip to suspend hops in a ball or sock using magnets in the ball and on the outside. Pull the magnet when you are ready and drop them in works a treat!!
Awesome, I never had much luck with bagged hops under pressure, mine blew up like a balloon and wouldnt sink even with stainlees steel fittings inside, beer was still good, but not sure how effect the dry hop was, but I will try it again for sure. Cheers!
Great video :) May be overkill, but what about putting a tube on the inside end of the CO2-in of the hop jar, pointing downward into your dryhops so the CO2 actually flows through the hops, clearing it from any “sticking” oxygen? Just a thought!
noob question for dry hopping here - would it be possible to add a small amount pressure through the dump pot at the bottom, (leaving the butterfly valve open during the whole process) then release the pressure at the top lid, remove the lid, dry hop from the top. replace and repressurise - thus not allowing oxygen into the tank and also not having to remove the yeast and loosing some beer?
Will be dry hopping 2mo. This has been super helpful, thanks. Is it necessary to do a yeast/trub dump or can I just go in with the hops. I have a 20L SIPA / 4% on the go and am hoping to get away with not doing a yeast dump! Cheers!
Hi, thanks for all your great information. I have your Fermzilla 3.2 and the hop bong. I used the hop bong on my current brew and removed the bong - with the base for the bong sill attached. Do you have any tricks to make the fermzilla shorter as configured at the moment? I'd like to cold crash this batch but currently its about 2 inches too tall for my keezer Can I turn the stand upside down and rest it on the larger rung - thereby making the fermzilla sit a little lower? Can I take off the collection cup and let it stand on the collar that the collection cup attaches to?
Yes you can take the jar off and rest it on the collar, you can also turn it upside down but not much use if you need to turn it over again to get the beer out, also you need to be extremely careful with fittings and pressure as the PRV would not work properly. Cheers!
I have this fermenter and love it. Now I’m a very lazy brewer who brews only extract beers with no temperature control. This is the only reason stopping me going all grain. Do I need temperature control if I’m brewing under pressure? Would I brew a decent all grain ale at ambient temps?
You don't need it, just the same as a regular brew.. but temp control in my opinion is the most important part of brewing. Like cooking you can start with the best ingredients on the planet but if you burn it or dont cook it right it'll be bad! but anyway sure you can! Cheers mate!
gday mate watched all your Fermzilla videos... it was massively helpful.. thanks for the efforts wanna ask you about adding (clearing agent) should it be same as dry hopping ? how to add clearing agent (lets say bentonite) without ruining my lovely yeast collection? any hacks ?
G'day mate, Firstly, if you're keeping the yeast I'd remove it before adding finings. Of course you could add finings by opening the lid, but if you want to keep it oxygen free you could add finings, if liquid, or dissolve it first and add it in the same way I do in this video to a keg, but into the fermenter. ua-cam.com/video/N0aO6sukQYk/v-deo.html Cheers!
Sensational stuff mate. Dry hopped my Rakau / pilsner malt SMaSH ale yesterday with 100g of Rakau in the fermzilla. Pretty much exactly how I do it with the gas bottle and purge with 10psi same as purging keg head space. But unlike yours my hops stayed on the bottom and it was due to fermenting at 30psi and only putting 10psi in the collection bottle. Will have to account for that next time. Cheers for the tips!
yeah do it the other way, get more pressure in bottom but I guess you did that? after you first opened all would of evened out, then shut valve, let a bit of pressure out the top, then open valve. but guess you know that already hahaha Cheers!
Closed the valve and purged some co2 to try and get the hops to push up but the hops have already swelled and it's all mush in the collection chamber. Hopefully get some oils extracted but will definitely get it right next time. This was the first time fermenting and carbonating under pressure. Kegging Monday hopefully she turns out alright!
hmm no doubt you'll get extraction, but maybe try again after a few hours.. make sure whole fermenter with valve open is at like 20-30. do it again, shut valve, really let out nearly all the gas from top, then open the valve it should purge up. though also if you're feeling strong the fact that the whole thing is full of co2 theres no damamge done by picking it up and try to shake it lose, it'll make it messy inside but itlll settle down again
Beer turned out beautifully. Perfectly carbonated and oxygen free grain to glass in 10 days. One question do you get hop and trub stuck under the big black rubber seal that connects the bottom attachment to the actual fermenter? Because I remember you saying you don't really take the fermenter all the way apart if I don't there would be hop matter and trub from my last batch that doesn't get washed out unless I pull the whole thing a part. Cheers
I've never used one of these. When you remove the bottom container to dry hop your beer I'm assuming that beer inside is lost so you need to add that quantity to your starting volume?
Well its usually full of yeast! but i rarely remove it, I just dry hop on top 99.9% of the time, the conical shape of the fermenter is a win in its self, less loss when emptying, when you have a heap of hops, compared to a flat bottom vessel. Cheers!
Great stuff! Can not wait to use my fermzilla. In the process of trying to find an upright freezer to use as a ferm chamber. One question - when you first pour your wort in, do you leave the butterfly valve open or closed? I’d imagine if open, trub would accumulate and I could remove that before pitching
I leave the valve open on filling, if any trub makes it to the fermenter it will settle out in it. Then when I dry hop, if using the bottle, I'll empty it and dry hop through it, but yep you could dump before pitching! If you fill with it shut, the trub will settle the bottom (on top of the valve) and then when you open the valve the bubbles going up will just force the trub back into suspension, then you'd have to wait again for it to settle. Cheers!
I use any food grade tap/faucet grease, its usually silicon based, at the moment I'm using a spray aerosol version, even though it is food grade it doesnt have to touch where the beer is, maybe the tiniest bit on the seal. People think the lube seals the vessel but it doesnt, what it does do is keep the seals nice and plump because they can get hard and brittle from all the cleaning, crack and shrink. I go a bit overboard in these videos with lube, but thats just to show it clearly, otherwise you wouldnt even see it on the vid. Kegland have a good one bit.ly/lubricantN or tap lube from bunnings, or something like this bit.ly/siliconsprayN Cheers!
You could try, I reckon it will foam up and be a huge mess. for a double I'd probably dry hop through the top first time, the ferment will be strong so no fear of oxidation. Cheers
Hi, do you think I have to use only food grade lube? I just got one silicone lube (grease) which is odorless but not food grade. Does the beer come in contact with the lube?
Great video, could take a doubt! How to inoculate the yeast in the fermenter? Do you inoculate and then pressurize? Or is there any way to inoculate with him pressurized? thanks.
Have you ever done dynamic dry hopping with this fermenter? I think you can put CO2 from the bottom so the hops will be on suspension again, and every time they settle on the bottom you put a little bit more of CO2. I have never seen anyone do this with this fermenter, but I think it works
G'day Lucas, I don't think its necessary unless you have a blockage or something, the dry hop process happens pretty fast. If I had a problem I would otherwise, I'll just leave it alone. Science says dry hopping can be done in 2 hours if you keep the wort moving. I actually more about the dry hops floating on top and not in the wort, I often go out can give the fermenter a bit of a shake to make them drop down into the wort again. Cheers mate, let me know if you do!
The Home Brew Network Nice man, thanks for the attention. Do you feel some difference between a beer that was dry hopped in the fermzilla and a beer that was dry hopped in a regular fermenter (not pressurized)?
@@lucassilvestrecordeiro971 Yes I find the aroma lasts longer and stays fresher, its kind of like its locked in. Though remember unless you're careful on transfer once it hits oxygen it will lose it fast. I find if you use enclosed transfer into a fully CO2 filled keg the hops last much longer. Cheers!
Hi, how do you do density control with the fermzilla? Considering that at the beginning there is sediment at the bottom of the fermenter, or do you purge the sediment before inoculating the yeast?
Hey! I will continue to pick on your experience if that's ok! 24 hours after pitch, I dumped the first litre of trub. 72 hours in I dry hopped. Its now 6 hours later and the hops are still squashed under the trub? Should I be worried? It feels like they will never be released in the beer! Any tips on how I could help their release into the beer? Also would you be so kind to share your pressure profile? I ve been keeping the spanding valve @ 5psi but as the fermentation is slowing down I guess I will need to increase pressure if I am to naturally carbonate the beer!
I've never had the hops get "trapped"?? What I would suggest is make sure the whole vessel is pressurised to 10-15psi, close the valve, release 99% of the pressure from the top, then open the bottom valve. Some when ever you dry hop, release pressure from the top, leave pressure in the hop jar after flushing the O2 out. You can also try just pumping some co2 through the hop jar Quick disconnect , but you need to be very careful that the CO2 pressure is higher than the vessel pressure because you'll get beer up your gas line, one way valve good idea. Cheers!
Rather than dump out all the co2 from the fermenter I like to leave a line cleaning cap on the collection container, shut the valve, then use a picnic tap to bleed off the pressure.
What if you're dry hopping without pressure (just normal airlock)? Can you leave the whole valve closed and keep everything in the top compartment, and then add your dry hops to the bottom, and open the valve to add in the dry hops?
Just had a thought on dry hopping and I would love to get your thoughts. If one was to dry hop multiple times in the fermenter with this vessel you may end up losing a decent amount of liquid, what if you flipped the fermenter upside down so the liquid didn't stay in the yeast dump?
Got mine today (25.6.2020 germany) for 139,-€ - I really dont understand why kegland ist not increasing the price by around 10 bucks, and include a pack of silicone lube and a couple of plastic preassure caps with it. This way - everybody is encouraged to assemble the Fermzilla without silicone lube - and you will run right into the first issue people are reporting on this unit .... It does not make much sence to deliver a package that you have to assemble yourself - and 'forget' the lube ... Thanks for your videos - they are helping me so much!
Excellent video! Thank you. I have been on the fence for a few months about getting one and your video is very helpful. Do you sell those hops t-shirts? All my favorites! I have been making an excellent beer with amarillo and simcoe and Maris Otter malt extract. 3 additions of 1/2 ounce each at 60, 30 and 10 minutes. Bottle after 2 weeks and drink at 30 days. I use 22 ounce bottle. Cheers!
Epic mate I just bought one of these! Just finished a brew and wondering when do you think I should start carbonating it in the fermzilla? I’m planning on doing a dry hop in a few days whilst it’s still fermenting wasn’t sure weather to start carbonating towards the end in like day 5 or put pressure in straight away? also what do you rekon the best way to let the pressure out whilst it ferments as I’m not using an airlock, is it with a blowtie-spunding-valve? I’m just thinking if the valve is open it could potentially suck in oxygen when fermenting slows down? is there another type of valve I should be using for fermentation? Haha rookie here! cheers mate👍
Blowtie-spunding-valve is perfect for the job. Since you're dry hopping maye start carbing after you put the dry hops in, just set it too 15-20psi and then when you start to cold crash or chill, drop it down to your serving pressure and in a few days of cold crash it will probably be carbed or at least very close. Cheers!
The Home Brew Network ah got ya mate thanks! Also With the spunding valve should I crank that open whilst it’s fermenting and shut it when I go to carb? Just trying to rap my head around this process and then I’m sweet. Going to do a closed transfer this time for sure.
Thanks for a great video! Just wondering, before you remove the collection, jar, how low do you let the pressure in the fermzilla drop? Hard to see the spunding valve reading, but 5-10 psi?
So I've got my first brew with the Fermzilla rolling away as we speak. I thought the pressure kit would have everything I needed. My question is, do I NEED a spunding valve? The corney valve on the lid is rated to 35 psi but I dont want to stress the unit too much! Planning on purging once a day until inget the proper valve. What do you think?
I've seen some horror stories with these where the fermenter leaks via the collection vessel not being sealed correctly. I've got a Fermzilla that I'm yet to use, what's the best way to make sure it's sealed? Cheers
It's all user error, do not over tighten, hand tight is enough. Don't use it at 30psi, thats just dumb, if you make a mistake the pressure will be in the 40s or 50s in no time, thats when accidents happen, thats when people say I only had it set to 30 but they leave out their mistakes, 10-15psi is plenty. Keep the seals lubed , you dont need to go crazy, just a normal lubing like you would for any seal. Cheers!
Hey Gash, I love the idea for a dip tube on the bottom ball valve, I like to do a couple co2 burst during my dry hop to get the hops back in suspension. This would help that a lot, let me know if you find anything that might work and I'll post here if I find something. I was thinking of just using some bev or gas line that bends down
Great idea using the CO2 from the brew to flush the hops during a dry hop. Mine should be arriving in the UK hopefully this week :) Just a quick one, I know with the saurus people recommended leaving the butterfly valve open to begin with, would you recommend it with the Zilla or because the valve is larger it shouldn't matter too much?
I leave the valve open on filling, if any trub makes it to the fermenter it will settle out in it. Then when I dry hop, if using the bottle, I'll empty it and dry hop through it. If you fill with it shut, the trub will settle the bottom (on top of the valve) and then when you open the valve the bubbles going up will just force the trub back into suspension, then you'd have to wait again for it to settle. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork obviously that makes complete sense to the now less drunk on homebrew me haha I shall continue in the same vein. Another quick one sorry mate... if you've used them, are the red carbonation caps just as solid/fit for regular use as the SS caps? I've already got spare SS caps but if the red ones are as solid and reliable then I think I'd prefer to use them to avoid potential damage to the zilla through over tightening etc?
the tail bit on the back feels a bit weak, but the rest seems ok. The plastic ones have been around for years and years, without the tail piece, you maybe able to pick some up to check out locally? I hear they are making some that dont need a seal, not sure when they will be out though.
@@HomeBrewNetwork cheers for the advice, only 3rd year in to the "hobby" (partner still thinks it's to spend less on beer HA) so still a lot to learn, enjoyed using the Saurus and can't wait for the Zilla to arrive for me in the UK!! Look forwards to more brewing tips and tricks 👍🏻
Thank you sir for a very informative video! Dont you feel there is too much waste with the first yeast dumb. Almost a 1L of beer lost! Since you are dry hopping early wouldn’t you have been better off, starting fermentation “valve closed” and opening the valve for the first time when dry hops went in??
Theres kind of 2 reasons, any carry over trub from the kettle has settled and is removed, otherwise when you add the hops at the later stage you're putting all that trub back into suspension. As far as amounts, losing a litre, I brew 6 gallon/ 23L batches, I keg 5 gallon/18.5L. I dont worry about losing a litre or two here and there for the ease and betterment of my beer. There is no right or wrong way, just do what works for you! Cheers!
The Home Brew Network, thanks for getting back! Maybe my thinking is different because I use 25L sankey kegs so there is always space for more beer! Also doesn’t everything settle back down again later in the process?!
HI mate, long time fan of this channel! I tried this technique in my latest batch. A bit of oververpressure in the bottom vessel caused the hops to shoot through to the top just as planned. However, the hops then settled very quickly to the bottom of the vessel. Is this going to be a problem in terms of how much flavor will be extracted from the hops now that it's just sitting there at the bottom? Should I try stirring the brew at this point to extract more flavor from the hops? I tried adding some more CO2 both through the bottom valve, as well as through the top like you describe at ca 11:00 minutes, in order to achieve some better mixing, but that didn't really stir up things the way I expected. Does anyone have some wisdom to share? :D Peace my mates!
I think it will be fine, I think we've just not really known how the hops acted in a regular fermenter because we couldn't see them. If you are worried you can pick up the whole thing and give it a swirl carefully, its all CO2 in there so no harm done. Cheers Olie!
Has anyone ever tried to oxygenate their wort through the bottom container before pitching the yeast? My thought is to connect an o2 cylinder to the carb cap and let the O2 bubble up through the wort
@@HomeBrewNetwork yeah i reckon it's handy to keep fermenting beer under little pressure and no air. Seen on FB couple blokes having little drama but it looks like pea nuts only. Cheers Gash!
Hiya Gavin, another bewdy mate, cheers! Is there any way I can make a single payment to you? I cannot really afford Patreon subscription at the moment, but would like to show my appreciation somehow, thanks
Idea for a double dry hop: use the kegland karbonation cap for pet bottles on the cup. Fill with your first dry hop and use as suggested. When the time comes for the second dry hop, close the butterfly valve, connect the output of the karbonation cap with the beer post of the fermzilla. Use co2 on the 2nd post of the karbonation cap and push the beer out of the cup and into the fermzilla. Remove the cup and repeat like first dry hopping.
I absolutely love the idea of using the gas from the brew to flush the hops. I will be using this in the future. Cheers for the great video
Thanks for watching cheers mate!
Sir, I wanted to thank you for taking the time to make this video. I got my Fermzilla for Christmas. Getting ready for my first brew with it.
Thanks very much mate, cheers!
The trick of using the ferment CO2 gas to purge the corny keg of air is bloody brilliant...
when you have 6 kegs washed, sanitised and needing purging that’s a lot of gas blowing out.
Using the 60 litre fermentation gas to run in series with the sounding valve at the end of the line kills every bird with the one proverbial stone.
Mate... borderline genius... cheers champ...!!
🥰😍😆😎
Spunding almost sounds like sounding...🤣🤣🤣🤣😎🤪
This was great - love the idea of flushing the hop jar with the CO2 produced by fermentation. Excellent video.
you have been an inspiration matey, watched your vids over last couple months,and took the plunge into buying fermzilla gen3, and switch from pressure barrels to cornys,brewed for 20 years+(partial mash) wow im converted, just done 1st closed transfer,and 1st pressure ferment, where have i been lmao, greetings from good old pom land(prisoner of mother england)
Good stuff mate, glad you enjoy it, I haven't looked back. Cheers!
awesome video Gash. Really good idea using the fermentation to flush hops. will try this myself in future.
Great video! Do you have experience with bottling from the fermzilla directly? I wonder if the carbonation is enough after bottling. How to even control the carbonation in the beer?
Thanks. Very helpful. Just doing my first brew in the fermzilla. Learned something that others might find handy. I tried to dry hop as per your method but couldn’t get the collection bottle to seal. At first thought I’d not tightened it enough but, after stuffing around a bit, I realised it had to be the seal. Took it off and checked the size of the seal and realised the one I had on was slightly smaller than another seal i had in the kit I’d bought. Put that one on and it’s fine. They both fit but obviously (now) the smaller one was stretched out too much to seal properly.
Glad you got it sorted mate, it shouldnt take much to seal, hand tight is plenty Cheers Shayne!
Cool system. I've been brewing for probably 30 years and just found this device. Must have on and the tips are wonderful.
I started in 1988 so not far off! Cheers Reggie!
I like your style sir! Thanks for the tips I just got a Fermzilla, and an all round, as a pipe welder the equation is- diameter times pi times length divided by CFH = #minutes you need to purge. IMHO A few minutes would evacuate almost all oxygen. Slower purge would be best, too fast may create a vortex which would continually mix oxygen into the CO2 Cheers mate!
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I somehow lost my password. I appreciate any tips you can offer me!
@Dallas Jayden instablaster =)
@Vincent Adriel thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im trying it out now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Vincent Adriel It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
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@Dallas Jayden Glad I could help :D
Thanks mate
What did you have the regulator set to when you pressurized the yeast collection cup? .
Cheers
Great video, and tips. I had trouble getting the collection bottle off, until I watched your video. Fermzilla is way better than the Fermentasaurus even though it was good for the time. I put 3 oz dry hopping with no problems. Can’t wait to taste my first batch in a few days.
Glad I could help, thanks for watching mate, cheers!
Gash Great Vid and helpful again, I have dropped the pressure in the collection bottle using a picnic tap before unscrewing to avoid the shower. I picked up a tip to suspend hops in a ball or sock using magnets in the ball and on the outside. Pull the magnet when you are ready and drop them in works a treat!!
Awesome, I never had much luck with bagged hops under pressure, mine blew up like a balloon and wouldnt sink even with stainlees steel fittings inside, beer was still good, but not sure how effect the dry hop was, but I will try it again for sure. Cheers!
Great video :) May be overkill, but what about putting a tube on the inside end of the CO2-in of the hop jar, pointing downward into your dryhops so the CO2 actually flows through the hops, clearing it from any “sticking” oxygen? Just a thought!
I did try it and it wasn't very successful, so much so it never made it onto a video. Cheers!
noob question for dry hopping here - would it be possible to add a small amount pressure through the dump pot at the bottom, (leaving the butterfly valve open during the whole process) then release the pressure at the top lid, remove the lid, dry hop from the top. replace and repressurise - thus not allowing oxygen into the tank and also not having to remove the yeast and loosing some beer?
Will be dry hopping 2mo. This has been super helpful, thanks. Is it necessary to do a yeast/trub dump or can I just go in with the hops. I have a 20L SIPA / 4% on the go and am hoping to get away with not doing a yeast dump! Cheers!
Thanks Mate im in Bali just got a gen 3 brew zilla ...great vid 🙏👌👍
No problem 👍
I hate getting drenched unscrewing the collection. The way you C02 charged the collection without a bottle is genius.
Great! How do you keg without getting hops stuck in tubes? I always use hop bags
Crash chill and don’t try and get the last litre or two out. Filter on the end of the pick up works well too. Cheers!
Crash chill and don’t try and get the last litre or two out. Filter on the end of the pick up works well too. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing this. I just bought one of these, and this video has been a great help
No worries Mike, i've done about 5 of these, plus used it in a lot of brewing videos. Cheers mate!
CO2 is heavier than air, so flushing the hops container should work pretty quick.
Hi, thanks for all your great information.
I have your Fermzilla 3.2 and the hop bong.
I used the hop bong on my current brew and removed the bong - with the base for the bong sill attached. Do you have any tricks to make the fermzilla shorter as configured at the moment?
I'd like to cold crash this batch but currently its about 2 inches too tall for my keezer
Can I turn the stand upside down and rest it on the larger rung - thereby making the fermzilla sit a little lower?
Can I take off the collection cup and let it stand on the collar that the collection cup attaches to?
Yes you can take the jar off and rest it on the collar, you can also turn it upside down but not much use if you need to turn it over again to get the beer out, also you need to be extremely careful with fittings and pressure as the PRV would not work properly. Cheers!
I have this fermenter and love it. Now I’m a very lazy brewer who brews only extract beers with no temperature control. This is the only reason stopping me going all grain. Do I need temperature control if I’m brewing under pressure? Would I brew a decent all grain ale at ambient temps?
You don't need it, just the same as a regular brew.. but temp control in my opinion is the most important part of brewing. Like cooking you can start with the best ingredients on the planet but if you burn it or dont cook it right it'll be bad! but anyway sure you can! Cheers mate!
How.do I take.a sample.to measure my gravity?
Great idea ,using Co2 from fermenter. Good video, cheers
Thank you! Cheers!
Do you have a link for the quick disconnect fittings on the hose your using?
gday mate
watched all your Fermzilla videos... it was massively helpful.. thanks for the efforts
wanna ask you about adding (clearing agent) should it be same as dry hopping ?
how to add clearing agent (lets say bentonite) without ruining my lovely yeast collection?
any hacks ?
G'day mate, Firstly, if you're keeping the yeast I'd remove it before adding finings. Of course you could add finings by opening the lid, but if you want to keep it oxygen free you could add finings, if liquid, or dissolve it first and add it in the same way I do in this video to a keg, but into the fermenter. ua-cam.com/video/N0aO6sukQYk/v-deo.html Cheers!
have you added the hops in the wort before fermentation or you add the hops after the fermentation?
what is the purpose of dry hopping?
Towards the end or at the end of fermentation
Mainly for extra aroma. Cheers
what is the largest dry hop you've successfully done from the bottom canister? I'm wondering how much can fit without getting stuck
Thanks heaps for the demonstration
Sensational stuff mate. Dry hopped my Rakau / pilsner malt SMaSH ale yesterday with 100g of Rakau in the fermzilla. Pretty much exactly how I do it with the gas bottle and purge with 10psi same as purging keg head space. But unlike yours my hops stayed on the bottom and it was due to fermenting at 30psi and only putting 10psi in the collection bottle. Will have to account for that next time. Cheers for the tips!
yeah do it the other way, get more pressure in bottom but I guess you did that? after you first opened all would of evened out, then shut valve, let a bit of pressure out the top, then open valve. but guess you know that already hahaha Cheers!
Closed the valve and purged some co2 to try and get the hops to push up but the hops have already swelled and it's all mush in the collection chamber. Hopefully get some oils extracted but will definitely get it right next time. This was the first time fermenting and carbonating under pressure. Kegging Monday hopefully she turns out alright!
hmm no doubt you'll get extraction, but maybe try again after a few hours.. make sure whole fermenter with valve open is at like 20-30. do it again, shut valve, really let out nearly all the gas from top, then open the valve it should purge up. though also if you're feeling strong the fact that the whole thing is full of co2 theres no damamge done by picking it up and try to shake it lose, it'll make it messy inside but itlll settle down again
or just wait till next time :)
Beer turned out beautifully. Perfectly carbonated and oxygen free grain to glass in 10 days. One question do you get hop and trub stuck under the big black rubber seal that connects the bottom attachment to the actual fermenter? Because I remember you saying you don't really take the fermenter all the way apart if I don't there would be hop matter and trub from my last batch that doesn't get washed out unless I pull the whole thing a part. Cheers
when using a fermzilla to brew under pressure is it completely necessary to use a fridge ?
Well not if you’re temps are within yeast range! Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork cheers mate ;)
I've never used one of these. When you remove the bottom container to dry hop your beer I'm assuming that beer inside is lost so you need to add that quantity to your starting volume?
Well its usually full of yeast! but i rarely remove it, I just dry hop on top 99.9% of the time, the conical shape of the fermenter is a win in its self, less loss when emptying, when you have a heap of hops, compared to a flat bottom vessel. Cheers!
Great stuff! Can not wait to use my fermzilla. In the process of trying to find an upright freezer to use as a ferm chamber. One question - when you first pour your wort in, do you leave the butterfly valve open or closed? I’d imagine if open, trub would accumulate and I could remove that before pitching
I leave the valve open on filling, if any trub makes it to the fermenter it will settle out in it. Then when I dry hop, if using the bottle, I'll empty it and dry hop through it, but yep you could dump before pitching!
If you fill with it shut, the trub will settle the bottom (on top of the valve) and then when you open the valve the bubbles going up will just force the trub back into suspension, then you'd have to wait again for it to settle.
Cheers!
Great video! just wondering what you use to lubricate or whats best to use to avoid contamination/taste. cheers
I use any food grade tap/faucet grease, its usually silicon based, at the moment I'm using a spray aerosol version, even though it is food grade it doesnt have to touch where the beer is, maybe the tiniest bit on the seal. People think the lube seals the vessel but it doesnt, what it does do is keep the seals nice and plump because they can get hard and brittle from all the cleaning, crack and shrink. I go a bit overboard in these videos with lube, but thats just to show it clearly, otherwise you wouldnt even see it on the vid. Kegland have a good one bit.ly/lubricantN or tap lube from bunnings, or something like this bit.ly/siliconsprayN Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Awesome! thanks for the quick reply, i am just watching your 3 part Brew day from hell vids. got some great content here. Cheers
Great ideas,
thanks!
Great video mate! What about dry hopping more than once? And is it possible to keep the liquid in and place it back in the ferment?
You could try, I reckon it will foam up and be a huge mess. for a double I'd probably dry hop through the top first time, the ferment will be strong so no fear of oxidation. Cheers
Hi, do you think I have to use only food grade lube? I just got one silicone lube (grease) which is odorless but not food grade. Does the beer come in contact with the lube?
Yes, you need.
Right at the end of your video you said you were going to put it back in the fridge, then you said 35 degrees? did I hear you right!?
yes and yes
Great video, could take a doubt! How to inoculate the yeast in the fermenter? Do you inoculate and then pressurize? Or is there any way to inoculate with him pressurized? thanks.
My hops get stuked in bottom, what can I do?
Have you ever done dynamic dry hopping with this fermenter? I think you can put CO2 from the bottom so the hops will be on suspension again, and every time they settle on the bottom you put a little bit more of CO2. I have never seen anyone do this with this fermenter, but I think it works
G'day Lucas, I don't think its necessary unless you have a blockage or something, the dry hop process happens pretty fast. If I had a problem I would otherwise, I'll just leave it alone. Science says dry hopping can be done in 2 hours if you keep the wort moving. I actually more about the dry hops floating on top and not in the wort, I often go out can give the fermenter a bit of a shake to make them drop down into the wort again. Cheers mate, let me know if you do!
The Home Brew Network Nice man, thanks for the attention. Do you feel some difference between a beer that was dry hopped in the fermzilla and a beer that was dry hopped in a regular fermenter (not pressurized)?
@@lucassilvestrecordeiro971 Yes I find the aroma lasts longer and stays fresher, its kind of like its locked in. Though remember unless you're careful on transfer once it hits oxygen it will lose it fast. I find if you use enclosed transfer into a fully CO2 filled keg the hops last much longer. Cheers!
Just found your channel recently mate. Good stuff!
Same! I'm happy I found it.
Thanks for watching cheers mate!
Hey Gash, how long ( in days )after pitching yeast do you wait until dry hopping, after you take an SG reading ?
Hi, how do you do density control with the fermzilla? Considering that at the beginning there is sediment at the bottom of the fermenter, or do you purge the sediment before inoculating the yeast?
Hey! I will continue to pick on your experience if that's ok!
24 hours after pitch, I dumped the first litre of trub. 72 hours in I dry hopped. Its now 6 hours later and the hops are still squashed under the trub? Should I be worried? It feels like they will never be released in the beer! Any tips on how I could help their release into the beer?
Also would you be so kind to share your pressure profile? I ve been keeping the spanding valve @ 5psi but as the fermentation is slowing down I guess I will need to increase pressure if I am to naturally carbonate the beer!
I've never had the hops get "trapped"?? What I would suggest is make sure the whole vessel is pressurised to 10-15psi, close the valve, release 99% of the pressure from the top, then open the bottom valve. Some when ever you dry hop, release pressure from the top, leave pressure in the hop jar after flushing the O2 out.
You can also try just pumping some co2 through the hop jar Quick disconnect , but you need to be very careful that the CO2 pressure is higher than the vessel pressure because you'll get beer up your gas line, one way valve good idea. Cheers!
Rather than dump out all the co2 from the fermenter I like to leave a line cleaning cap on the collection container, shut the valve, then use a picnic tap to bleed off the pressure.
What if you're dry hopping without pressure (just normal airlock)? Can you leave the whole valve closed and keep everything in the top compartment, and then add your dry hops to the bottom, and open the valve to add in the dry hops?
sure you can, you mix up all the dead yeast and trub back into the beer, but it will settle out again I guess! Cheers!
great idea
Just had a thought on dry hopping and I would love to get your thoughts. If one was to dry hop multiple times in the fermenter with this vessel you may end up losing a decent amount of liquid, what if you flipped the fermenter upside down so the liquid didn't stay in the yeast dump?
Sure you could, if you like! You dry hop through the top as well. Cheers!
Great video as always mate!
Thanks for watching cheers mate!
Got mine today (25.6.2020 germany) for 139,-€ - I really dont understand why kegland ist not increasing the price by around 10 bucks, and include a pack of silicone lube and a couple of plastic preassure caps with it. This way - everybody is encouraged to assemble the Fermzilla without silicone lube - and you will run right into the first issue people are reporting on this unit .... It does not make much sence to deliver a package that you have to assemble yourself - and 'forget' the lube ...
Thanks for your videos - they are helping me so much!
Thanks for watching Bert, Cheers mate!
Excellent video! Thank you. I have been on the fence for a few months about getting one and your video is very helpful. Do you sell those hops t-shirts? All my favorites! I have been making an excellent beer with amarillo and simcoe and Maris Otter malt extract. 3 additions of 1/2 ounce each at 60, 30 and 10 minutes. Bottle after 2 weeks and drink at 30 days. I use 22 ounce bottle. Cheers!
How are you finding the plastic carbcaps as opposed to the SS ones?
Well they worked, I've only used them this once so far. Thanks for watching and cheers mate!
Epic mate I just bought one of these! Just finished a brew and wondering when do you think I should start carbonating it in the fermzilla? I’m planning on doing a dry hop in a few days whilst it’s still fermenting wasn’t sure weather to start carbonating towards the end in like day 5 or put pressure in straight away? also what do you rekon the best way to let the pressure out whilst it ferments as I’m not using an airlock, is it with a blowtie-spunding-valve? I’m just thinking if the valve is open it could potentially suck in oxygen when fermenting slows down? is there another type of valve I should be using for fermentation? Haha rookie here! cheers mate👍
Blowtie-spunding-valve is perfect for the job. Since you're dry hopping maye start carbing after you put the dry hops in, just set it too 15-20psi and then when you start to cold crash or chill, drop it down to your serving pressure and in a few days of cold crash it will probably be carbed or at least very close. Cheers!
The Home Brew Network ah got ya mate thanks! Also With the spunding valve should I crank that open whilst it’s fermenting and shut it when I go to carb? Just trying to rap my head around this process and then I’m sweet. Going to do a closed transfer this time for sure.
Thanks, Gash very handy tips
Thanks for watching cheers mate!
Thanks for a great video! Just wondering, before you remove the collection, jar, how low do you let the pressure in the fermzilla drop? Hard to see the spunding valve reading, but 5-10 psi?
I'd drop nearly out, will make easier to get off and less messy. Cheers!
Thank you for a fantastic video, you have made my mind up to buy a Fermzilla 👍⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
So I've got my first brew with the Fermzilla rolling away as we speak. I thought the pressure kit would have everything I needed. My question is, do I NEED a spunding valve? The corney valve on the lid is rated to 35 psi but I dont want to stress the unit too much! Planning on purging once a day until inget the proper valve. What do you think?
Yeah, I would buy one saves a ton of stress and worry. Cheers mate!
I've seen some horror stories with these where the fermenter leaks via the collection vessel not being sealed correctly. I've got a Fermzilla that I'm yet to use, what's the best way to make sure it's sealed? Cheers
It's all user error, do not over tighten, hand tight is enough. Don't use it at 30psi, thats just dumb, if you make a mistake the pressure will be in the 40s or 50s in no time, thats when accidents happen, thats when people say I only had it set to 30 but they leave out their mistakes, 10-15psi is plenty. Keep the seals lubed , you dont need to go crazy, just a normal lubing like you would for any seal. Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork Legend, thanks for the detailed reply! Cheers
Great video, great tips ! Thanks for sharing all this.
Hey Gash, I love the idea for a dip tube on the bottom ball valve, I like to do a couple co2 burst during my dry hop to get the hops back in suspension. This would help that a lot, let me know if you find anything that might work and I'll post here if I find something. I was thinking of just using some bev or gas line that bends down
Yeah probably just bend some tube, heat a bit of the old stiff stuff would probably work, Cheers~
Great idea using the CO2 from the brew to flush the hops during a dry hop. Mine should be arriving in the UK hopefully this week :) Just a quick one, I know with the saurus people recommended leaving the butterfly valve open to begin with, would you recommend it with the Zilla or because the valve is larger it shouldn't matter too much?
I leave the valve open on filling, if any trub makes it to the fermenter it will settle out in it. Then when I dry hop, if using the bottle, I'll empty it and dry hop through it.
If you fill with it shut, the trub will settle the bottom (on top of the valve) and then when you open the valve the bubbles going up will just force the trub back into suspension, then you'd have to wait again for it to settle.
Cheers!
@@HomeBrewNetwork obviously that makes complete sense to the now less drunk on homebrew me haha I shall continue in the same vein.
Another quick one sorry mate... if you've used them, are the red carbonation caps just as solid/fit for regular use as the SS caps? I've already got spare SS caps but if the red ones are as solid and reliable then I think I'd prefer to use them to avoid potential damage to the zilla through over tightening etc?
the tail bit on the back feels a bit weak, but the rest seems ok. The plastic ones have been around for years and years, without the tail piece, you maybe able to pick some up to check out locally? I hear they are making some that dont need a seal, not sure when they will be out though.
@@HomeBrewNetwork cheers for the advice, only 3rd year in to the "hobby" (partner still thinks it's to spend less on beer HA) so still a lot to learn, enjoyed using the Saurus and can't wait for the Zilla to arrive for me in the UK!! Look forwards to more brewing tips and tricks 👍🏻
Thank you sir for a very informative video! Dont you feel there is too much waste with the first yeast dumb. Almost a 1L of beer lost! Since you are dry hopping early wouldn’t you have been better off, starting fermentation “valve closed” and opening the valve for the first time when dry hops went in??
Theres kind of 2 reasons, any carry over trub from the kettle has settled and is removed, otherwise when you add the hops at the later stage you're putting all that trub back into suspension. As far as amounts, losing a litre, I brew 6 gallon/ 23L batches, I keg 5 gallon/18.5L. I dont worry about losing a litre or two here and there for the ease and betterment of my beer. There is no right or wrong way, just do what works for you! Cheers!
The Home Brew Network, thanks for getting back! Maybe my thinking is different because I use 25L sankey kegs so there is always space for more beer! Also doesn’t everything settle back down again later in the process?!
HI mate, long time fan of this channel!
I tried this technique in my latest batch. A bit of oververpressure in the bottom vessel caused the hops to shoot through to the top just as planned. However, the hops then settled very quickly to the bottom of the vessel. Is this going to be a problem in terms of how much flavor will be extracted from the hops now that it's just sitting there at the bottom? Should I try stirring the brew at this point to extract more flavor from the hops? I tried adding some more CO2 both through the bottom valve, as well as through the top like you describe at ca 11:00 minutes, in order to achieve some better mixing, but that didn't really stir up things the way I expected. Does anyone have some wisdom to share? :D Peace my mates!
I think it will be fine, I think we've just not really known how the hops acted in a regular fermenter because we couldn't see them. If you are worried you can pick up the whole thing and give it a swirl carefully, its all CO2 in there so no harm done. Cheers Olie!
Nice vid👍 just doing my first now thanks again
Great ideas. Great video/s. Subscribed.
i do not own one,but in reference to lube i use organic coconut oil,works great,on anything that needs lube
Thats interesting! Nice idea, Cheers Richard
Loving your vids,new to homebrewing and your helping me out tonnes :) P.S Hello from UK
Cheers Marty! Take care mate
Can you use lube for khmmm love making activities?
Thanx dude I’m From Perú 🇵🇪👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Genius. As The Old Fart, Jim Payne (r.i.p.) would have said, you can use water based sexy gel from the chemist too if you have to. cheers.
Sexy gel is what I use to polish my head hahaha
@@HomeBrewNetwork Lol. Mine's got a beanie. no need lol.
Has anyone ever tried to oxygenate their wort through the bottom container before pitching the yeast? My thought is to connect an o2 cylinder to the carb cap and let the O2 bubble up through the wort
Sure you can! i use mostly dry yeast so I don't worry too much about oxygen unless its some special yeast or something. Cheers!
Nice tips there. Cheers.
Thanks for watching and cheers Greg!
Good tips Gash. Cheers! I have to buy one of Fremzillas too one day ;-). Now got nice stockpile of over 60L. Cheers bro!
They go ok, not sure which I like best, think the fermzilla is winning just. Thanks for watching cheers mate!
@@HomeBrewNetwork yeah i reckon it's handy to keep fermenting beer under little pressure and no air. Seen on FB couple blokes having little drama but it looks like pea nuts only. Cheers Gash!
Great tips mate. Cheers 🍻
Thanks for watching cheers Jason!
great presentation, I was going to post a lube joke but thought I better not, cheers bro
Thanks for watching and cheers mate!
Cheers.
Thanks for watching mate!
Hiya Gavin, another bewdy mate, cheers! Is there any way I can make a single payment to you? I cannot really afford Patreon subscription at the moment, but would like to show my appreciation somehow, thanks
Thats very kind mate, I have paypal. Or what would you like to use? Cheers!
whats ur paypal address?@@HomeBrewNetwork
Missed this answer mate sorry. Email is diepainfully@hotmail.com
Great lube tips
Thanks for watching cheers mate!
ABBA
35⁰c??? Man you're going to have iso amyl acetate galore 👎🏻👎🏻
So obviously you haven't use Kveik yeast, been around many years now, you should take a look. Cheers!
To boring to detailed. Yawn!