I have a 2013 Honda Insight. Due to the piston rings that Honda used for that year the car had an oil consumption problem. I did a piston soak for 24 hours using berryman B12. I ran the car on the freeway for about 40 miles, then I changed the oil with Restore and Protect. 1000 miles later I think the problem is fixed. My mpg went up from 29 to 38 mpg! There was a knocking noise that I could hear on acceleration, and now that is gone. The restore and protect works!
I didn’t expect this to work this well and doing the videos was an after thought. I have more projects with before and after results coming soon! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the Brake "Bleeding" Tip. I usually just leave the Brake Fluid alone until the Pads/Rotors get serviced and expect the Fluid will last until then... I've bled brakes before, it isn't too hard but a "top off" (after making room) is easier. Heck, I'm not sure when I last checked it, for level or color. Put the first Change of Restore and Protect in my 2014 GMC Terrain 2 weeks ago (So far so good). For my 2003 Saturn ION (192K miles) it has been almost 3 months and no Oil Burning... Very Impressed, with such "fast" results. I remember Valvoline promoting the release of R&P around this time last year (2023) and really wanting to try it in my ION. Had been burning (and showing high wear in Oil Analysis reports) for years. Had picked up the Oil (AutoZone Promo, 5qts,Oil and Air Filters for under $40) back in March and didn't get around to putting it in the ION til June... Be very interesting to see as R&P gets another year or two of being available Nationwide (US), how many more people get a chance to see how nice their Engine is when it isn't burning Oil and feeling like a much newer vehicle (Performance wise). The ION's engine seems smoother at idle and acceleration. More responsiveness and quieter too. A Win-Win for people with High Mileage and "New" vehicles alike. Valvoline's FAQ says R&P is for both, but based on how many people comment about it... They don't seem to realize the benefits of using this "before" the deposits/wear become a problem. Considering my recent 5Qt Jug (from Walmart) was just under $30 and sure I can get various 5Qt Quality Full Synthetics for $20-$26... The few extra bucks and benefits (heck the savings from not burning just 1 or 2 Quarts in an Interval puts me ahead... Disregarding any other MPG/Performance/Wear improvements I'd see later) Worth it. Heck I just read a few comments today about people suggesting not "needing" or bothering to use R&P... Instead using the more traditional "Engine Flushes" (and/or ATF, MMO, Seafoam), Much Shorter Change Intervals, Frequent Filter Changes... That all adds up in cost, time, and maybe questionable results. Again the few extra dollars compared to 1 filter, a quart of "X", or the hour(s) spent doing any of it... Seems like a No Brainer
What ever way you can get and keep your engine clean will pay off. We all just need to bounce ideas off each other and share results. Thanks for watching!
We just traded in a 2011 Chevy traverse with 269000 miles! It actually ran very good, and still shifted perfectly. It had a slow rate of burn ...maybe a quart every 4000 miles. I always used a quality synthetic (like Mobil 1), and stayed on top of my fluid changes. I was waiting until about 7000 miles but later decided that 5000 miles was probably best. One time, we pulled off the air intake tube and noticed a white milky substance. A mechanic I knew said this was common on these 3.5 liters, especially in cooler months. We cleaned the tube out. Then, a few months later, noticed it came back. I did some research and found out there was an identified issue with the holes in the pcv valve being too small, and/or getting clogged. There was a known fix, where you take a new pcv and slightly drill out the holes. I did this and it resolved the issue. This was about 60000 miles before trading in the car.
I’m about to do my third oil change on the wife’s 2016 explorer with 155,000 miles the first I went to 1,600 miles it started getting a bit noisy so I changed it this round I was planning on taking it to 3,000 but it wound up going to 4,100 miles ish. So far I’m really impressed with it though I’ve always been a valvoline guy
I am running the Restore and Protect in my 16 year old Grand daughters used 2020 Jeep, 42,000 Mileage at purchase , because it 's very unlikely that it was properly maintained prior to her getting it ( but the oil filler cap did not look bad ) , I plan on 3 oil changes with Wix XP Filter and then switching over to their extended protection 5w-30w !
The sludge issue, is aggravated by long change intervals or short driving practices. Like not driving at least 10 or 15 me when you get into the vehicle. You need to drive a vehicle at least 20 to 30 me at one shot every week so that you get it fully heat soaked. Now I used to use Kendall oil years ago it cleaned up engines wonderfully. Plus Kendall oil will take 200 degrees higher heat temperature than the mobile one of the day. Mobile one is not a particularly great oil. At least it wasn't 10 or 15 years ago. I have my first Phil of restore and protect in my 2008 Silverado right now. However I had also run a cycle of oil in it just before with a quart of transmission fluid in the oil. It makes a wonderful cleaner and does not aggravate the engine
Gm’s oil life monitor system is very accurate and won’t let you run past 7500 miles. Idk if that oil mile limit is on the older ones but that oil life system regardless works very well. It’s not a mileage based monitoring system like most manufacturers use.
You can't do extended drain intervals with weak filtration. Oil doesn't wear out, it gets contaminated. Engines with bypass filtration and that use oil analysis can go longer between changes. Gasoline engines, CNG, LNG engines can really pile on the miles because the fuel doesn't produce soot ( unless it's really out of tune ) like a diesel. But even with a diesel, as long as the oil is chemically clean, you can still use the oil.
Oil generally fails due to extreme temperatures and/or as you stated contamination. Most contamination is from water formed as a by product of combustion and from cars that condensate from sitting in humid and/or cold regions. Water and other contaminates cause oxidation which forms sludge and varnish. Moral of the story is to change your oil with a high quality oil according to the way you drive and use a high quality filter. Thanks for watching!
The best years with the simplest engines had the LM7 2000-2006 without active fuel management. Active fuel management used oil pressure to collapse lifters and deactivate cylinders to save fuel. This systems reliability is hit and miss, so best to just avoid. Thanks for watching!
I've ran mainly Castrol Edge 0W20 and I have ran Quaker State my truck seems to like both oils. I was thinking Valvoline or Pennzoil next then maybe some Motormaster. I always do my oil at 5000k my truck is not as old or has the mileage like yours. But to me seems all oils are pretty much the same and you can have a healthy engine as long as you do the constant oil change every 5000k.
I have an 02 GMC Sarah.5.3400000 will soon be on my fourth.All change with the Valvoline, restore and protect. The first oil change. I changed it at about 800 miles. The filter was dirty. The second one I changed about 1500 filter still dirty. But I noticed my engine had begin to quiet, quiet. Doand oil was actually kind of a still golden brown. Is this all change? I will have 3000 on this one. My truck says the new has always used a little oil. But a quarter every fifteen hundredsmiles, but I noticed. I should use a extra court every 3000 miles. As what you're looking like. Only thing I wish is it came in the can. www 40 light they sell in Australia. Instead of the 530. My angel is a little warm so I would like to have more viscosity
i just want this in 10w-40 for my project car that had collage kid service history behind it aka not to many oil changes and a bunch of sludge from sitting for nearly 26 years i have cleaned it out mostly and flushed it with ATF but its still a high mileage honda from the 80s and a endless project.
All my kids started with old cars that needed work, kids learn important life lessons. My kids still have their first cars that are now long term project, couldn’t be prouder. Thanks for watching!
That engine looks new inside compared to my 6.0 liter van with 550k, I thought my rear main was going but it was just the oil pan gasket. I’ve been using Mobil 1 since 250k but I think the engine was neglected before I bought it. If you ever have the pan off, change the pickup O ring.
Despite all the hype, what they don't tell you is that your local repair shops don't really carry it and won't back it up. I had to buy my own... to get my local shop to put it in, and they wouldn't back it. On the receipt, they put "no warranty" (meaning they wouldn't back it). If you have a vehicle with warranty coverage that requires documentation of regular oil changes...and you want to use this oil, it will be a hassle finding shops that carry it. I'm in St. Louis and I couldn't find any shop that carries this oil.
These 00-06 4.8/5.3 2wd Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon's are great reliable vehicles. Yes, MPG is hot garbage, but with replacement cost in its totality (new vehicle tax, depreciation, insurance, registration) the reliable "ole' truck" wins in the savings.
It 100% cycles overtime, slowly, but the more the brakes are used the more it cycles like any hydraulic system. Been racing my whole life, we do this regularly at the track because of hot brake fluid. Thanks for watching.
@@Fix-it-tony - It definitely does not cycle. I've done enough brake fluid flushes to promise you that. There's absolutely no way brake fluid at the calipers is making it's way back to the master cyl. The nastiest, dirtiest, stuff is always right at the caliper.
@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow So if I drain my master and fill it with water, everything will be ok? I mean, the water isn't going to cycle anywhere, just sit there, right?
@@GrandPrix46 - Brake fluid isn't water. Nor is it oil. So, not sure what you're getting at by mixing it with water. Maybe you can explain how brake fluid in the caliper makes it way back up to the master cyl with no return line. Or, maybe you can explain why the nastiest brake fluid is at the caliper, when you do a flush, if brake fluid cycles? Easy: You can't explain it - because it doesn't.
I’ve done 4 whole changes with restore and protect and barely any diff. Oil burning is down but it’s a GDI engine so probably not getting the full cleaning benefit
Unfortunately Hyundia and Kia engines have a known internal medical failure that causes consumption. Warranty on most cars was extended to 15 year 150k miles. Please see below, thanks for watching! www.thelemonfirm.com/2023/06/16/hyundai-and-kia-oil-consumption-class-action-settled/#:~:text=The%20lawsuit%20was%20brought%20on,a%20settlement%20of%20%24760%20million.
Definitely do an induction cleaning to get carbon off the valves and out of the combustion chamber. If you haven't done it before you'll notice a huge performance difference.
Be very careful of this stuff, it will clean the sludge out very quickly which causes your oil filter to clog. If you use it from day one it’s okay, but if you put it in a sludge engine it will seize.
As I stated excessively sludged engine should be cleaned manually. My application is just to clean the piston rings, but won’t create a clogged filter issue because it works slowly over 3-5 oil changes. Thanks for watching!
@@raydaum5050as the brakes are used it pumps in as the system cycles forcing old fluid out. It happens a little bit every time, but over time the whole system cycles. Thanks for watching.
You do not have to take the engine apart to remove sludge. There's an old school product that about a week before you're going to do an oil change you add a quart of marble Mystery Oil and you run it for a week. That gets rid of a lot of sludge. You do that a couple of oil change cycles. And I've seen engines come out so clean that you wouldn't believe there was ever sludge in it
Manually removing excessive sludge is to prevent sludge from clogging your oil filter. I recommend this for excessively sludged up engines. Thanks for watching!
Black oil is not bad. That means the oil is doing its job holding and moving all that sludge/dirt. I used Pennzoil full synthetic platinum (The one made from Natural gas its a group 5 oil base) and I can say when I got my car used the inside was dark brown, after 3 3k oil changes the inside is a light golden color. I drive 3k a year so one oil change a year. Also it made the engine vary quite after using it, runs a lot smoother! Changing filters and fluids is key to keep cars on the road for 250k+ miles. People also just need to change brake fluid every 2 years. I was driving 100+ mph shaking down the new to me car and went to hit the the brakes and they let go! That feeling of having brakes than the brakes boiling over cause all the water in the fluid and the pedal going to the floor not being able to stop, priceless. So after a new pair of pants I bleed the entire system, go times go times.... lol
@@bobleblanc8082 I'm talking about the one made from Natural Gas, not oil. The people at these oil testing places seem to think its a Group 5 on youtube. I just go off what I can find.
Incorrect. Penzoil GTL (Ultra Platinum and Platinum)is a Group 3 base oil. Group 5 oils base oils are esters. All of the other Pennzoil oils are from crude.
It doesn't help that of the 3ls motors I have taken apart and rebuilt. I have found almost all of the Pistons have rings on them that have a .030 Gap when installed. I understand the General Motors does this so that all they have to do is slap the engines together but 0.030 is a ridiculously wide gap for an engine. Especially when you can make it with a Gap half the size and be completely safe with a naturally aspirated engine. That doesn't help oil usage.
@@larrylazure4288 Just to clarify you switched to 5W,20 Restore and Protect? (Vs say Advanced or Extended Protection Valvoline) From what Oil(s) snd Interval(s) before hand? You keeping the same Interval? Any Oil/Filter problems or concerns? My 2014:Terrain had been using Dexos1 oils (Kendall then Castrol 5w30) for 3000 miles. Had some Oil Dilution issues from excess idle and "Short Tripping" with a GDI Engine. Going to keep doing 3000. Wear numbers have been good and have gotten the Oil Dilution hopefully under control., With luck the Anti-Wear package and Deposit cleaning in R&P will keep things heading in the right direction and reduce a few of the other Oil problems that are known issues for my Ecotec 2.4L model engine (fingers crossed Preventative Maintenance before/now means it'll be trouble free for 100-200K miles more
My Toyota V6 was immediately quieter with restore and protect 0w-20, coming from Mobil 1 extended protection with only 2000 miles. I'm 200 miles in and the engine runs smoother and slightly more power. I can hear the injectors now, before I couldn't
It will breakdown sludge, but slowly, but you really don’t that junk clogging up your oil filter. Best to manually clean it and run this oil every oil change. Thanks for watching!
I’ve done a piston soak about a year ago and it caused a sludge/crud buildup in the pan. It is quite essential to clean that up before using strong cleaning oils.
I put about 40,000 miles on the car year if you go to Valvoline and sign up for their free subscription they will send 5 gallons to you every six months for $92 to your door of restoring protect you can pick smaller amount also and you can also cancel your subscription at anytime
I have a 2013 Honda Insight. Due to the piston rings that Honda used for that year the car had an oil consumption problem. I did a piston soak for 24 hours using berryman B12. I ran the car on the freeway for about 40 miles, then I changed the oil with Restore and Protect. 1000 miles later I think the problem is fixed. My mpg went up from 29 to 38 mpg! There was a knocking noise that I could hear on acceleration, and now that is gone.
The restore and protect works!
@@balthazarbratt8194 awesome thanks for sharing. I appreciate you watching!
Tony - you’re teasing us man!! We need the before and afters with the borescope!
I didn’t expect this to work this well and doing the videos was an after thought. I have more projects with before and after results coming soon! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the Brake "Bleeding" Tip.
I usually just leave the Brake Fluid alone until the Pads/Rotors get serviced and expect the Fluid will last until then...
I've bled brakes before, it isn't too hard but a "top off" (after making room) is easier. Heck, I'm not sure when I last checked it, for level or color.
Put the first Change of Restore and Protect in my 2014 GMC Terrain 2 weeks ago (So far so good). For my 2003 Saturn ION (192K miles) it has been almost 3 months and no Oil Burning... Very Impressed, with such "fast" results.
I remember Valvoline promoting the release of R&P around this time last year (2023) and really wanting to try it in my ION. Had been burning (and showing high wear in Oil Analysis reports) for years. Had picked up the Oil (AutoZone Promo, 5qts,Oil and Air Filters for under $40) back in March and didn't get around to putting it in the ION til June...
Be very interesting to see as R&P gets another year or two of being available Nationwide (US), how many more people get a chance to see how nice their Engine is when it isn't burning Oil and feeling like a much newer vehicle (Performance wise). The ION's engine seems smoother at idle and acceleration. More responsiveness and quieter too.
A Win-Win for people with High Mileage and "New" vehicles alike. Valvoline's FAQ says R&P is for both, but based on how many people comment about it... They don't seem to realize the benefits of using this "before" the deposits/wear become a problem. Considering my recent 5Qt Jug (from Walmart) was just under $30 and sure I can get various 5Qt Quality Full Synthetics for $20-$26... The few extra bucks and benefits (heck the savings from not burning just 1 or 2 Quarts in an Interval puts me ahead... Disregarding any other MPG/Performance/Wear improvements I'd see later) Worth it.
Heck I just read a few comments today about people suggesting not "needing" or bothering to use R&P... Instead using the more traditional "Engine Flushes" (and/or ATF, MMO, Seafoam), Much Shorter Change Intervals, Frequent Filter Changes... That all adds up in cost, time, and maybe questionable results. Again the few extra dollars compared to 1 filter, a quart of "X", or the hour(s) spent doing any of it... Seems like a No Brainer
What ever way you can get and keep your engine clean will pay off. We all just need to bounce ideas off each other and share results. Thanks for watching!
I change mine at 2500 miles on my 2018 tahoe and and the motor is all original with lifters and push rods...I use this oil and never had a problem
Awesome, thanks for watching!
We just traded in a 2011 Chevy traverse with 269000 miles! It actually ran very good, and still shifted perfectly. It had a slow rate of burn ...maybe a quart every 4000 miles. I always used a quality synthetic (like Mobil 1), and stayed on top of my fluid changes. I was waiting until about 7000 miles but later decided that 5000 miles was probably best. One time, we pulled off the air intake tube and noticed a white milky substance. A mechanic I knew said this was common on these 3.5 liters, especially in cooler months. We cleaned the tube out. Then, a few months later, noticed it came back. I did some research and found out there was an identified issue with the holes in the pcv valve being too small, and/or getting clogged. There was a known fix, where you take a new pcv and slightly drill out the holes. I did this and it resolved the issue. This was about 60000 miles before trading in the car.
That’s awesome, we all need to get advice and develop these sort of solutions! Thanks for watching!
I’m about to do my third oil change on the wife’s 2016 explorer with 155,000 miles the first I went to 1,600 miles it started getting a bit noisy so I changed it this round I was planning on taking it to 3,000 but it wound up going to 4,100 miles ish. So far I’m really impressed with it though I’ve always been a valvoline guy
Let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
I am running the Restore and Protect in my 16 year old Grand daughters used 2020 Jeep, 42,000 Mileage at purchase , because it 's very unlikely that it was properly maintained prior to her getting it ( but the oil filler cap did not look bad ) , I plan on 3 oil changes with Wix XP Filter and then switching over to their extended protection 5w-30w !
Awesome, let us know how it goes! Thanks for watching!
I started using this oil in a 2014 3.6 Chrysler town and country with over 200000 and am on second oil change so far so good
Let us know how it goes, thanks for watching!
I sure will
2014 No. It was just released in 2023 so its not possible to have used it since 2014.
The sludge issue, is aggravated by long change intervals or short driving practices. Like not driving at least 10 or 15 me when you get into the vehicle. You need to drive a vehicle at least 20 to 30 me at one shot every week so that you get it fully heat soaked. Now I used to use Kendall oil years ago it cleaned up engines wonderfully. Plus Kendall oil will take 200 degrees higher heat temperature than the mobile one of the day. Mobile one is not a particularly great oil. At least it wasn't 10 or 15 years ago. I have my first Phil of restore and protect in my 2008 Silverado right now. However I had also run a cycle of oil in it just before with a quart of transmission fluid in the oil. It makes a wonderful cleaner and does not aggravate the engine
This is true, just need to be careful with transmission fluid, have seen a few engines that ended up spinning a bearing. Thanks for watching!
07:25 what you mean, the color looks good near the color of new oil
It had a red hue to it, hard to see in the camera. Will do an update soon, thanks for watching!
@@Fix-it-tony greetings from Poland
Gm’s oil life monitor system is very accurate and won’t let you run past 7500 miles. Idk if that oil mile limit is on the older ones but that oil life system regardless works very well. It’s not a mileage based monitoring system like most manufacturers use.
@@michaelyoung7911 with the way we run our vehicles nowadays, 5k should be the max you go. Thanks for watching!
7500 is to long
You can't do extended drain intervals with weak filtration. Oil doesn't wear out, it gets contaminated. Engines with bypass filtration and that use oil analysis can go longer between changes. Gasoline engines, CNG, LNG engines can really pile on the miles because the fuel doesn't produce soot ( unless it's really out of tune ) like a diesel. But even with a diesel, as long as the oil is chemically clean, you can still use the oil.
Oil generally fails due to extreme temperatures and/or as you stated contamination. Most contamination is from water formed as a by product of combustion and from cars that condensate from sitting in humid and/or cold regions. Water and other contaminates cause oxidation which forms sludge and varnish. Moral of the story is to change your oil with a high quality oil according to the way you drive and use a high quality filter. Thanks for watching!
I’m trying this on a 09 Silverado. Suspecting a collapsed lifter. Due for oil change anyways. Ill report back!
I’ve had good luck freeing up stuck lifters on LS engines. Just as long there is no mechanical damage. Thanks for watching!
Great information. What older year range is best to look for in the Yukon or Suburban?
The best years with the simplest engines had the LM7 2000-2006 without active fuel management. Active fuel management used oil pressure to collapse lifters and deactivate cylinders to save fuel. This systems reliability is hit and miss, so best to just avoid. Thanks for watching!
@@Fix-it-tony Thank you
I've ran mainly Castrol Edge 0W20 and I have ran Quaker State my truck seems to like both oils. I was thinking Valvoline or Pennzoil next then maybe some Motormaster. I always do my oil at 5000k my truck is not as old or has the mileage like yours. But to me seems all oils are pretty much the same and you can have a healthy engine as long as you do the constant oil change every 5000k.
100% not ok to push oil too many miles, thanks for watching!
I have an 02 GMC Sarah.5.3400000 will soon be on my fourth.All change with the Valvoline, restore and protect.
The first oil change. I changed it at about 800 miles. The filter was dirty. The second one I changed about 1500 filter still dirty. But I noticed my engine had begin to quiet, quiet. Doand oil was actually kind of a still golden brown. Is this all change? I will have 3000 on this one. My truck says the new has always used a little oil. But a quarter every fifteen hundredsmiles, but I noticed. I should use a extra court every 3000 miles. As what you're looking like. Only thing I wish is it came in the can. www 40 light they sell in Australia. Instead of the 530.
My angel is a little warm so I would like to have more viscosity
Sounds like good results, thanks for watching!
I heard another victim of oil abuse in these engines is o-ring failure , showing up as low oil pressure on the gauge.
Seen that a few times, I replaced my oil pressure sensor o ring with neoprene. Thanks for watching!
i just want this in 10w-40 for my project car that had collage kid service history behind it aka not to many oil changes and a bunch of sludge from sitting for nearly 26 years i have cleaned it out mostly and flushed it with ATF but its still a high mileage honda from the 80s and a endless project.
All my kids started with old cars that needed work, kids learn important life lessons. My kids still have their first cars that are now long term project, couldn’t be prouder. Thanks for watching!
You can get it in that weight in Australia apparently.
Can confirm R&P is available in 10W-40 in Australia.
@YZJB I haven’t seen it
That engine looks new inside compared to my 6.0 liter van with 550k, I thought my rear main was going but it was just the oil pan gasket. I’ve been using Mobil 1 since 250k but I think the engine was neglected before I bought it. If you ever have the pan off, change the pickup O ring.
Had the pan down, 1/4” of sludge. Thanks for watching!
Despite all the hype, what they don't tell you is that your local repair shops don't really carry it and won't back it up. I had to buy my own... to get my local shop to put it in, and they wouldn't back it. On the receipt, they put "no warranty" (meaning they wouldn't back it).
If you have a vehicle with warranty coverage that requires documentation of regular oil changes...and you want to use this oil, it will be a hassle finding shops that carry it. I'm in St. Louis and I couldn't find any shop that carries this oil.
Buy it straight from Valvoline, it’s 20% cheaper when you subscribe. Thanks for watching!
These 00-06 4.8/5.3 2wd Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon's are great reliable vehicles. Yes, MPG is hot garbage, but with replacement cost in its totality (new vehicle tax, depreciation, insurance, registration) the reliable "ole' truck" wins in the savings.
100%, thanks for watching!
Brake fluid doesn't cycle like power steering fluid. You need to flush the stuff in the lines past the master cyl.
It 100% cycles overtime, slowly, but the more the brakes are used the more it cycles like any hydraulic system. Been racing my whole life, we do this regularly at the track because of hot brake fluid. Thanks for watching.
@@Fix-it-tony - It definitely does not cycle. I've done enough brake fluid flushes to promise you that. There's absolutely no way brake fluid at the calipers is making it's way back to the master cyl. The nastiest, dirtiest, stuff is always right at the caliper.
@ShowMeWhatINeedToKnow So if I drain my master and fill it with water, everything will be ok? I mean, the water isn't going to cycle anywhere, just sit there, right?
@@GrandPrix46 - Brake fluid isn't water. Nor is it oil. So, not sure what you're getting at by mixing it with water. Maybe you can explain how brake fluid in the caliper makes it way back up to the master cyl with no return line. Or, maybe you can explain why the nastiest brake fluid is at the caliper, when you do a flush, if brake fluid cycles? Easy: You can't explain it - because it doesn't.
I’ve done 4 whole changes with restore and protect and barely any diff. Oil burning is down but it’s a GDI engine so probably not getting the full cleaning benefit
Unfortunately Hyundia and Kia engines have a known internal medical failure that causes consumption. Warranty on most cars was extended to 15 year 150k miles. Please see below, thanks for watching!
www.thelemonfirm.com/2023/06/16/hyundai-and-kia-oil-consumption-class-action-settled/#:~:text=The%20lawsuit%20was%20brought%20on,a%20settlement%20of%20%24760%20million.
Oil cannot fix scored cylinder walls, leaky valve gaskets, failing PCV system or overeaten oil rings
Definitely do an induction cleaning to get carbon off the valves and out of the combustion chamber. If you haven't done it before you'll notice a huge performance difference.
Best bang for your buck in the 5.3 engines is adding a oil catch can off the driverside valve cover
100%, a must for avoiding oil in your intake. Thanks for watching!
There is also a new revised valve cover for the driver's side. 2007 new body style and up to 14' I believe.
Be very careful of this stuff, it will clean the sludge out very quickly which causes your oil filter to clog. If you use it from day one it’s okay, but if you put it in a sludge engine it will seize.
As I stated excessively sludged engine should be cleaned manually. My application is just to clean the piston rings, but won’t create a clogged filter issue because it works slowly over 3-5 oil changes. Thanks for watching!
Brake fluid doesn't circulate in your brake lines.
Slowly, but yes it does. Thanks for watching!
@@Fix-it-tony im not being rude but how does the fluid go back up to the master cylinder?
@@raydaum5050as the brakes are used it pumps in as the system cycles forcing old fluid out. It happens a little bit every time, but over time the whole system cycles. Thanks for watching.
You do not have to take the engine apart to remove sludge. There's an old school product that about a week before you're going to do an oil change you add a quart of marble Mystery Oil and you run it for a week. That gets rid of a lot of sludge. You do that a couple of oil change cycles. And I've seen engines come out so clean that you wouldn't believe there was ever sludge in it
Manually removing excessive sludge is to prevent sludge from clogging your oil filter. I recommend this for excessively sludged up engines. Thanks for watching!
Put wouldn't you risk clogging the oil pickup tube?
I can not find this oil anywhere in the uk. I can only import it from the us😢
Can they ship directly from Valvoline? Thanks for watching!
@Fix-it-tony yes of course but the shipping costs the same as the oil🤣 which is fine, just sucks a lil
Your government is too busy flooding your country with moozlims! Shame
Black oil is not bad. That means the oil is doing its job holding and moving all that sludge/dirt. I used Pennzoil full synthetic platinum (The one made from Natural gas its a group 5 oil base) and I can say when I got my car used the inside was dark brown, after 3 3k oil changes the inside is a light golden color. I drive 3k a year so one oil change a year. Also it made the engine vary quite after using it, runs a lot smoother! Changing filters and fluids is key to keep cars on the road for 250k+ miles. People also just need to change brake fluid every 2 years. I was driving 100+ mph shaking down the new to me car and went to hit the the brakes and they let go! That feeling of having brakes than the brakes boiling over cause all the water in the fluid and the pedal going to the floor not being able to stop, priceless. So after a new pair of pants I bleed the entire system, go times go times.... lol
When using a high detergent oil black oil early in the miles may mean stuff is breaking down. Always air on the side of caution. Thanks for watching!
Pennzoil Platinum is not a group 5 oil. It's a group 3+ GTL base oil. Group 5 is where the ester oils are.
@@bobleblanc8082 I'm talking about the one made from Natural Gas, not oil. The people at these oil testing places seem to think its a Group 5 on youtube. I just go off what I can find.
@@trollcare3311 It's group 3, group 5 is ester.
Incorrect. Penzoil GTL (Ultra Platinum and Platinum)is a Group 3 base oil. Group 5 oils base oils are esters. All of the other Pennzoil oils are from crude.
Is this a "sales" video?
I wish I got paid, just helping others with the same problem. Lots of snake oil out there, finally found something that works. Thanks for watching!
It doesn't help that of the 3ls motors I have taken apart and rebuilt. I have found almost all of the Pistons have rings on them that have a .030 Gap when installed. I understand the General Motors does this so that all they have to do is slap the engines together but 0.030 is a ridiculously wide gap for an engine. Especially when you can make it with a Gap half the size and be completely safe with a naturally aspirated engine. That doesn't help oil usage.
GM built some loose engines especially the earlier LS engines. Leaves plenty of space for carbon to become a problem. Thanks for watching!
Is this synthetic?
Yes, top tier. Thanks for watching!
*Everything is made differently*
100%, thanks for watching!
Blah blah blah blah blah blah... Holy Crap dude! It's a yap-fest! Almost click bait!
Almost, lol, thanks for watching
I switched to 5w 20 Valvaline synthetic and wierd but my Ram is running smoother.
Keeping those lifters clean helps the hemi’s running smooth for sure. Thanks for watching!
@@larrylazure4288 Just to clarify you switched to 5W,20 Restore and Protect? (Vs say Advanced or Extended Protection Valvoline)
From what Oil(s) snd Interval(s) before hand? You keeping the same Interval? Any Oil/Filter problems or concerns?
My 2014:Terrain had been using Dexos1 oils (Kendall then Castrol 5w30) for 3000 miles. Had some Oil Dilution issues from excess idle and "Short Tripping" with a GDI Engine. Going to keep doing 3000. Wear numbers have been good and have gotten the Oil Dilution hopefully under control., With luck the Anti-Wear package and Deposit cleaning in R&P will keep things heading in the right direction and reduce a few of the other Oil problems that are known issues for my Ecotec 2.4L model engine (fingers crossed Preventative Maintenance before/now means it'll be trouble free for 100-200K miles more
My Toyota V6 was immediately quieter with restore and protect 0w-20, coming from Mobil 1 extended protection with only 2000 miles. I'm 200 miles in and the engine runs smoother and slightly more power. I can hear the injectors now, before I couldn't
All the hype lately about this oil but didn’t Royal Purple oil do what this does, only decades ago?
Does better for cheaper for engines with buildup. Thanks for watching!
Brake fluid does not circulate through the entire system.
It sure does, happens over time of course. Thanks for watching!
Yes it does lol
Valvoline advertises R&P only for piston cleaning. If it cleaned sludge, they'd certainly say so...but they don't.
It will breakdown sludge, but slowly, but you really don’t that junk clogging up your oil filter. Best to manually clean it and run this oil every oil change. Thanks for watching!
It advertises piston ring cleaning, tried it myself and my car feels 5 years newer. Highly recommend, I'm on my first oil change interval
Only thing good for sludge is a proper engine flush treatment.
I’ve done a piston soak about a year ago and it caused a sludge/crud buildup in the pan.
It is quite essential to clean that up before using strong cleaning oils.
Forgot the best part, that buildup caused a oil pump failure lol
I put about 40,000 miles on the car year if you go to Valvoline and sign up for their free subscription they will send 5 gallons to you every six months for $92 to your door of restoring protect you can pick smaller amount also and you can also cancel your subscription at anytime
That’s awesome, will have to signup for that! Thanks for watching!
What you wanna do is change your oil filter every thousand miles they’re so cheap. Why not
Good point, better to be safe if you have a really dirty. Thanks for watching!