FYI, Valvoline has a $5 rebate till 08/25 on 5 quarts of oil. You can get up to 6 rebates and it’s a real easy process with texting a copy of the receipt.
Pro tip: cut a section of filter material out with a razor knife say 10-20 pleats. Wrap a rag around it and squeeze in a vice or with some channel locks. Gets the oil out and allows you to see what the filter actually caught. Also, a filter cutter would open that in about 30 seconds. Thanks for the vid, currently using some in a semi neglected silverado.
My 99 Camry 2.2l with 207,xxx miles has had oil seepage for over 2 years. The seepage has not been bad enough to get it fixed. This started way before I started with Valvoline R&P 8,000 miles ago. Just passed RI inspection yesterday. The inspector said it wasn't leaking on my exhaust, so he'd pass me... which is exactly what he said 2 years ago ie. it hasn't gotten any worse. Occasionally, I throw in a bottle of AT-205 Reseal (like a month before inspection), which I'm not sure I notice much difference. I do hope the piston ring lands and internals are nice and clean or at least heading that way as I do a lot of highway driving and want 400K miles from this engine.
The Fram Endurance is identical to the Amsoil EAO/EA filters that are both made by Champions labs, First Brand owns Trico, Fram and Champion labs. Filter is sold to Amsoil and it is a huge savings to cross platform one high end design to save costs. Both fantastic filters and the only competition is other brands re-badged or the Purolator Boss which is made by Mann & Hummel. WIX XP is made by Mann & Hummel also. Fram just updated the Tough guard to a metal frame internals. I wouldn't use it as I use Purolator Boss and Fram Endurance on my vehicles.
339k Chevy truck here with 1st R&P oil change. I had a very slight tick only after startup for about a minute. That quickly went away after R&P was used. I know what the valve train looked like before R&P since I replaced the valve cover gasket. Light golden color of varnish. The dip stick and the oil itself looks cleaner now. Almost due for another oil change. I also have oil lab analysis history.
i hope you keep doing updates. i wonder if it will fix your need to add oil in between changes. i dont have to add any oil on my 160k rx350 but im still curious to run this to see if it will help any or prolong the life any
Nice video,great points covered. Ford (truck)V8,L6,V6 have always been dirty engines packing sludge and grit in the heads ,lifter valley and by the front and rear main seals.
Nice work, recommend first use with 5,000 mile services on an unknown engine maintenance schedule I would change the filter like you said maybe 500 miles then at 1,000 and every 1,000 miles for that first 5,000 mile service. After all filters are cheap like the man said pay me a little now or a lot later. 😉👍
Thanks, interesting look-see, etc. I just switched both our Vehicles:2015 Journey 4 CYL,110,000mi((5 years MOPAR CONVENTIONAL OIL), &, 2007 Canyon 4 CYL,146,000 mi.(mist years MOB1,hi frequency OCI)…. Anyways, just changing out the VALVOLINE OIL FIKTERS TO, PUROLATER Boss @500-1000 miles , just in case.
I ran that oil too on my malibu with 222k miles. It has a cartridge filter, so I don't have to cut it open. I saw no difference using that oil vs mobil 1. They all appear to work the same.
May I ask if your Engine check light came on? Like problem OBDII scan code P0430 or P0420 code? The reason I ask this question is because the dirt from Piston ring has to go somewhere. I am guessing all the dirt sticking on Catalytic converter.
I have not had a catalyst code on any car I've used it on. Deposits should all go into the oil filter or be broken up finely enough to remain in suspension in the oil. I don't think you'd get any significant amount in the cat.
Valid concern. A good part of the dirt from piston rings would indeed enter the combustion chamber and from there, to the cat. I would guess, however, that the absolute amount is very small, grams. Way less than the carbon that coats the piston heads.
Brand Rank or Rank Brand did real life simulation on the filters and seeing the flow rate combined with filtration, i went back to Wix XP, the mobil1 extended performance was decent too. Fram's better filtering filters seem to do poorer in terms of oil flow.
The oil leak thing is 100% a myth. Synthetic oil does not have smaller molecules, only more consistent. People with old cars want to blame everything and anything except the old car.
I've got a car that leaks like a sieve on synthetic high mileage and has no leaks on blended high mileage. Main seal and valve cover. Takes about 500 mi after change to stop rear main. But after putting synth in it leaks the next day. It's immediate.
I have a 2016 Ford Transit 250 I did a BG oil flush and went to pensoil platinum full synthetic . The shop I go to puts in mobil 1 full synthetic it sta rted leaking once I went to full synthetic the original owner I think just used blended oil didn't leak I might try the Ford synthetic blend
I think you should just change your valve cover gasket like it should be. My worry is worn cylinders. If i clean too much, Im afraid there will be more oil being left in the combustion chamber@user-xm1mz1ep6w
Wow, would still change that filter early or do more frequent oil changes with initial use of the Restore and Protect. I’m going to use Restore & Protect every 4 oil changes and use my usual synthetics otherwise.
It has seal conditioners. Technically you should be able to use it non-stop. The motor oil geek is Lake Speed Junior is testing it thoroughly. It's not heavy seal conditioners. So if you're used to using something with a 20% PAO then you would only want to use this for four changes roughly or a year assuming every three months. Older high mileage engine oils would have higher amounts of detergents but their seal conditioners were simply a 20% PAO in the oil. HPL Engine Cleaner is a solid PAO. So if you wanted you could just use it every fifth oil change to with 4-5 quarts and you should be golden.
How about dituted say 50% restore and protect and 50% your normal oil for the first change. Maybe that way one wouldn't have to chang3 the 1st oil change in 500 miles?
@@dgunearthed7859 Not the best idea due to conflicting additive packages. Technically restore and protect is Valvoline's standard add pack but with a different molecule as a carrier. It allows things to be twice as effective. Varnish as an example and carbon slowly break down. The issue is if you have a severely neglected engine then sludge will clog the engine filter first. It wouldn't just happen here, it would happen with HPL as well. Personally I would say the average person would be best off doing a 1000-2000 mile oil change or three months whichever came first in a well maintained vehicle for your first change. In a not so great maintained vehicle while the oil will be okay. The oil filter may clog in 300-500 miles. It's going to free up sludge where as the carbon and varnish will take a lot of time to free up from the engine.
Pennzoil platinum is a killer oil too. I see VRP as a kind of problem-solver, but if you've been on top of your maintenance with an oil like that, there might not be any problem to solve in the first place.
@halaheleu7013 You never said... Was/Are you having Oil Consumption or other "Problems" that might have gotten VRP onto your Radar? What kind of Pennzoil Full Synthetic are you running? There are several versions... What kind of Interval(s)? Been running VRP in my current vehicle since September. Costs me maybe $5-10 more then a 5Qt Jug of my "Usual" Oil... Before I retired my 2003 Saturn ION-3 (192K miles -21 years) last year I ran VRP for 3 months/713 miles and it didn't consume any Oil (Had been burning for several years by then a significant amount at every Fuel Stop/Fill Up)... Had Winter PM, Repairs, and an Unsafe Rusted/Rotted Frame not all conspired to force early retirement... I'd likely be driving it still today. Far better Gas mileage (and no Oil Dilution like my GDI Ecotec 2.4L)...
Valvoline "does" make a 10W40 Restore and Protect... Just not available in the US Market (yet?)... (Try the Australia/New Zealand Market, there is at least 1 UA-camr posting his experience with it. There are several fellow Americans Jealous of his access/results with 10W40 VRP... Though the bottle and related "local" Specs (Market Specific "Truth in Advertising"?) States "Up to 99% Deposit Removal"
@@A_Toolbag modern roller lifter engines are still failing. gm and ram are 2 examples neither brand will last past 100k and will need a new camshaft and lifters.
Sorry but a 94 Camry engine was light years ahead of American manufacturers of the time era in every aspect. There’s a reason they consistently run for 300,000 miles or more.
@@blue03r6 If you take care of a car it should last. It gets more interesting when the amount of repairs and abuse are considered. Japanese engineers preemptively design their parts to avoid failures while maintaining extremely high quality standards.
FYI, Valvoline has a $5 rebate till 08/25 on 5 quarts of oil. You can get up to 6 rebates and it’s a real easy process with texting a copy of the receipt.
Pro tip: cut a section of filter material out with a razor knife say 10-20 pleats. Wrap a rag around it and squeeze in a vice or with some channel locks. Gets the oil out and allows you to see what the filter actually caught. Also, a filter cutter would open that in about 30 seconds.
Thanks for the vid, currently using some in a semi neglected silverado.
My 99 Camry 2.2l with 207,xxx miles has had oil seepage for over 2 years. The seepage has not been bad enough to get it fixed. This started way before I started with Valvoline R&P 8,000 miles ago. Just passed RI inspection yesterday. The inspector said it wasn't leaking on my exhaust, so he'd pass me... which is exactly what he said 2 years ago ie. it hasn't gotten any worse. Occasionally, I throw in a bottle of AT-205 Reseal (like a month before inspection), which I'm not sure I notice much difference. I do hope the piston ring lands and internals are nice and clean or at least heading that way as I do a lot of highway driving and want 400K miles from this engine.
The Fram Endurance is identical to the Amsoil EAO/EA filters that are both made by Champions labs, First Brand owns Trico, Fram and Champion labs. Filter is sold to Amsoil and it is a huge savings to cross platform one high end design to save costs. Both fantastic filters and the only competition is other brands re-badged or the Purolator Boss which is made by Mann & Hummel. WIX XP is made by Mann & Hummel also. Fram just updated the Tough guard to a metal frame internals. I wouldn't use it as I use Purolator Boss and Fram Endurance on my vehicles.
Yup that's all the proof I need Amsoil products are a complete scam/garbage.....Friends don't let friends use Fram filters 😉
339k Chevy truck here with 1st R&P oil change. I had a very slight tick only after startup for about a minute. That quickly went away after R&P was used. I know what the valve train looked like before R&P since I replaced the valve cover gasket. Light golden color of varnish. The dip stick and the oil itself looks cleaner now. Almost due for another oil change. I also have oil lab analysis history.
Hoarders analogy was great😅
i hope you keep doing updates. i wonder if it will fix your need to add oil in between changes.
i dont have to add any oil on my 160k rx350 but im still curious to run this to see if it will help any or prolong the life any
Nice video,great points covered. Ford (truck)V8,L6,V6 have always been dirty engines packing sludge and grit in the heads ,lifter valley and by the front and rear main seals.
You should borescope your engine through the drain hole after your next oil change. Great video
My lower oil pan is dented, so I'll be replacing it next oil change anyway. I'll get a good view of the internals then.
Nice work, recommend first use with 5,000 mile services on an unknown engine maintenance schedule I would change the filter like you said maybe 500 miles then at 1,000 and every 1,000 miles for that first 5,000 mile service.
After all filters are cheap like the man said pay me a little now or a lot later. 😉👍
Thanks, interesting look-see, etc. I just switched both our Vehicles:2015 Journey 4 CYL,110,000mi((5 years MOPAR CONVENTIONAL OIL), &, 2007 Canyon 4 CYL,146,000 mi.(mist years MOB1,hi frequency OCI)…. Anyways, just changing out the VALVOLINE OIL FIKTERS TO, PUROLATER Boss @500-1000 miles , just in case.
I ran that oil too on my malibu with 222k miles. It has a cartridge filter, so I don't have to cut it open. I saw no difference using that oil vs mobil 1. They all appear to work the same.
Incredible video!
May I ask if your Engine check light came on? Like problem OBDII scan code P0430 or P0420 code? The reason I ask this question is because the dirt from Piston ring has to go somewhere. I am guessing all the dirt sticking on Catalytic converter.
I have not had a catalyst code on any car I've used it on. Deposits should all go into the oil filter or be broken up finely enough to remain in suspension in the oil. I don't think you'd get any significant amount in the cat.
Valid concern. A good part of the dirt from piston rings would indeed enter the combustion chamber and from there, to the cat. I would guess, however, that the absolute amount is very small, grams. Way less than the carbon that coats the piston heads.
Brand Rank or Rank Brand did real life simulation on the filters and seeing the flow rate combined with filtration, i went back to Wix XP, the mobil1 extended performance was decent too. Fram's better filtering filters seem to do poorer in terms of oil flow.
Brand Ranks is awesome, loved the testing methodology when I first saw them. I need to catch up on their videos.
The oil leak thing is 100% a myth. Synthetic oil does not have smaller molecules, only more consistent.
People with old cars want to blame everything and anything except the old car.
Oil leak thing is not a myth. It is 100% legit. Probably due to no sludge plugging the cracks in the gaskets after oil change.
I've got a car that leaks like a sieve on synthetic high mileage and has no leaks on blended high mileage. Main seal and valve cover. Takes about 500 mi after change to stop rear main. But after putting synth in it leaks the next day. It's immediate.
@@MiltonWarmikael-o1m So the oil is not the cause the car is. Run thicker oil?
I have a 2016 Ford Transit 250 I did a BG oil flush and went to pensoil platinum full synthetic . The shop I go to puts in mobil 1 full synthetic it sta rted leaking once I went to full synthetic the original owner I think just used blended oil didn't leak I might try the Ford synthetic blend
I think you should just change your valve cover gasket like it should be. My worry is worn cylinders. If i clean too much, Im afraid there will be more oil being left in the combustion chamber@user-xm1mz1ep6w
Totally need a $30 oil filter cutter.
It is too expensive like you see for some people
$20 on Amazon.
Wow, would still change that filter early or do more frequent oil changes with initial use of the Restore and Protect. I’m going to use Restore & Protect every 4 oil changes and use my usual synthetics otherwise.
It has seal conditioners. Technically you should be able to use it non-stop. The motor oil geek is Lake Speed Junior is testing it thoroughly.
It's not heavy seal conditioners. So if you're used to using something with a 20% PAO then you would only want to use this for four changes roughly or a year assuming every three months.
Older high mileage engine oils would have higher amounts of detergents but their seal conditioners were simply a 20% PAO in the oil.
HPL Engine Cleaner is a solid PAO. So if you wanted you could just use it every fifth oil change to with 4-5 quarts and you should be golden.
How about dituted say 50% restore and protect and 50% your normal oil for the first change. Maybe that way one wouldn't have to chang3 the 1st oil change in 500 miles?
@@dgunearthed7859 Not the best idea due to conflicting additive packages. Technically restore and protect is Valvoline's standard add pack but with a different molecule as a carrier. It allows things to be twice as effective.
Varnish as an example and carbon slowly break down. The issue is if you have a severely neglected engine then sludge will clog the engine filter first.
It wouldn't just happen here, it would happen with HPL as well.
Personally I would say the average person would be best off doing a 1000-2000 mile oil change or three months whichever came first in a well maintained vehicle for your first change.
In a not so great maintained vehicle while the oil will be okay. The oil filter may clog in 300-500 miles. It's going to free up sludge where as the carbon and varnish will take a lot of time to free up from the engine.
@Vultain sounds good. Thanks!
Isn’t amsoil a pao with ester added for seals? I heard Mobil one used to be but now is hydro cracked with no ester
Very informative, thanks.
Were the spark plugs used to pry the filter paper out? Looking pretty wet.
DId 3 oil 🛢 changes with R&P Valvoline. 367k miles don't see any change at all . Engine runs 🏃♂️ exactly same as running pennzoil full synthetic.
Pennzoil platinum is a killer oil too. I see VRP as a kind of problem-solver, but if you've been on top of your maintenance with an oil like that, there might not be any problem to solve in the first place.
@halaheleu7013 You never said... Was/Are you having Oil Consumption or other "Problems" that might have gotten VRP onto your Radar? What kind of Pennzoil Full Synthetic are you running? There are several versions... What kind of Interval(s)? Been running VRP in my current vehicle since September. Costs me maybe $5-10 more then a 5Qt Jug of my "Usual" Oil...
Before I retired my 2003 Saturn ION-3 (192K miles -21 years) last year I ran VRP for 3 months/713 miles and it didn't consume any Oil (Had been burning for several years by then a significant amount at every Fuel Stop/Fill Up)... Had Winter PM, Repairs, and an Unsafe Rusted/Rotted Frame not all conspired to force early retirement... I'd likely be driving it still today. Far better Gas mileage (and no Oil Dilution like my GDI Ecotec 2.4L)...
R and p is good stuff.
If they make a full synthetic 10 w 40 I will buy it
Valvoline "does" make a 10W40 Restore and Protect... Just not available in the US Market (yet?)... (Try the Australia/New Zealand Market, there is at least 1 UA-camr posting his experience with it. There are several fellow Americans Jealous of his access/results with 10W40 VRP... Though the bottle and related "local" Specs (Market Specific "Truth in Advertising"?) States "Up to 99% Deposit Removal"
thanks!
That filter looks pretty nasty. You're going too long between changes IMHO.
Did you listen to the video?
No one takes you seriously when you start talking about Frame 😂
Ok "mr. Oil filter. You ain't done no tests; just listening to UA-cam.😂
You shouldn't be using any modern oils in a 94. It will destroy it in short order. You need something for classic cars.
A 1MZ-FE is way, way closer to a modern engine than to the old flat-tappet and push rod engines those classic car oils are generally made for.
@@A_Toolbag modern roller lifter engines are still failing. gm and ram are 2 examples neither brand will last past 100k and will need a new camshaft and lifters.
Sorry but a 94 Camry engine was light years ahead of American manufacturers of the time era in every aspect. There’s a reason they consistently run for 300,000 miles or more.
@@FeloniousPunk-w4z ive seen a lot of brands with 300k including gm and ford. My buddy runs a used car lot.
@@blue03r6 If you take care of a car it should last. It gets more interesting when the amount of repairs and abuse are considered. Japanese engineers preemptively design their parts to avoid failures while maintaining extremely high quality standards.
Its snake oil...
Ever watch Lake Speed Jr's page? If not, you should.
Don’t use it then. More for the rest of us.
@@ChrisLincolnHomesAmong others