Відео

@@paulknuff1555 100% the point of the video. Thanks for watching!

@@user-jo4en1zl7b no

@@tonybernheim8365 what makes you say that? Specifically what about its chemistry makes you think this will be an issue? We’re not talking about a flu by night company that has no clue what they’re doing here… I’ve got a collective 15k miles on two different vehicles now and have had zero issues with leaks or seals. One of which has over 250k miles on it.

@@KushestWRX simple enough to remove the VVT solenoid and clean the inlet.

@@BTL3.0 I mean bigger is more efficient in theory. The 13 has proven to be more than adequate however in this specific application.

@ i’m slowly gathering parts to do the same setup as yours. Thermostat is on the way from ebay. Parker hose will probably get from their website directly. It’s like $4.64/ft. Not bad. Saw another video where the guy installed the hayden cooler and he uses 15-16ft of hose length total. Similar setup, no oem hardline. Straight from thermo to cooler. I may get 16ft to be safe.

@@opera93 why does any manufacturer use any conventional oil? Blows my mind.

Well, hard to say but I don’t have reason to doubt that it would eventually get it cleaned up. Not dropping the pan to find out though. It’s not leaking (shhh…)

Aha! Nice!

Beggars and choosers around here sometimes. But I agree, I’m a purolator fan. This last one I put on was a standard Purolator and it looked considerably better.

@LeadStarDude What about the Purolator ONE? Do you know if it has the same flow characteristics as the BOSS? If planning to change the filter every few thousand miles and go thru ten of them in short order, I would like to use one that's less expensive if I can! Please share whatever you might know about the ONE instead of the BOSS THANKS!

@jeffs3917 The Purolator One is pretty much the same as the Mobil One filter. Both offer decent filtering with a synthetic blend filter media, but both restrict oil flow compared to the Purolator Boss. Purolator Boss has a fully synthetic filter media. It filters better and flows better. If you change your oil every 3k miles the the Boss may not be necessary, and either of those other two will do fine. I do 5k mile oil changes with fully synthetic oil, so I use the Boss. Regardless, the Boss still filters better, and both the cold flow and hot flow are way less restricted. So that's up to you. I like the idea of having both better filtering and better oil flow.

Do you have any data on the Fram Ultra Synthetic or the Fram Synthtic Endurance? They both have a full synthetic media as well, would you say either or those would have flow chacteristics comparable to the Purolator BOSS? I'd love to hear your opinion on that 🙂 What I'm thinking to do is run VR&P for the next at least 4 oil changes, about 5k miles on each oil change, which I now anticipate needing at least 8-10 filters for. Before I realized I'd probably need so many filters, I was planning to use the Fram Synthetic Endurance. Once I did realize how many filters it might actually take, I then thought to use the Purolator ONE, which is less than half the cost. If I'm gonna need 8-10 filters to do this job, and none will go over 5000 miles, some only 1000 or 2000 I'd really rather use $6 filters than $13 filters if I could! That said, I really want to catch maximum crap (with minimum risk of returning some of the crap to the engine). And if that really calls for the better flow characteristics for maximum success, $60-70 difference is no big deal. I just don't want to waste 20-25k mile filters if I don't need to when I'll barely be going 2-5k miles on each one. I think the best answer for that I just spelled out myself. But I'll still appreciate hearing your opinion about that too 👍

@ the Purolator one is a great choice.

@@owenhill-vf7ko clearly the previous owner didn’t. Or they didn’t use proper spec oil.

@@Ibonic yes. I’m just demonstrating that the R&P definitely does what it claims and that one should be aware of the effects of that on oil filter life. Engine is quieter by far already. Was also getting intermittent exhaust cam phaser position faults that have now cleared up. Notorious issue with carbon getting clogged in the inlet strainers of the VVT solenoids.

@DirtE30 I don't see why anyone would give you ish or disagree with what you're saying. You're not wrong

@@timkis64 actually it’s 100% necessary as if you didn’t have a bypass, the sump would simply be sucked dry as the oil couldn’t return to the pan due to the restriction of the clogged filter. Dirty oil is better than no oil 100% of the time. In a perfect world you don’t need such but it actually goes into bypass during cold starts etc pretty regularly.

@@owenhill-vf7ko lol ok. You wanna cookie now?

Bypass valves are needed, yes. But I'm with @timkis64 on the design of putting them at the bottom of the filter. It needs to be in the engine block, in the flow line BEFORE the filter. So whenever the filter is not flowing enough, the valve opens and oil just gets returned without even entering the filter at all. Then the filter itself should have no valve in it, so that all the crap that has collected in the pleats and in the can has no way back into the engine without passing thru the filter media. With that much junk all over the pleats, on every cold start, when the valve opens, oil is flowing in, right past and through all that collected crap, very likely picking some of it back up, and then carrying it thru the open valve and right back into the engine. How much of that actually happens I don't have a clue. I suspect in normal operation, virtually none at all. But when starting with VR&P, when there's suddenly a LOT of junk there, I bet it is doing some of exactly that. I know of course some GM engines are made this way, where the correct filter has no valve, and the valve is in the engine block. And I've seen some filters with the bypass at the top, not the bottom, which would also alleviate this problem. As mentioned, if one is not cleaning out a bunch of sludge, and just running normally, my guess is that it's a non-issue. But when first starting to use VR&P it REALLY REALLY seems a very good idea to me to change the filter very soon and at least twice for every oil change. Maybe three times for the first one.

@@DirtE30 I didn’t see Owen Hill’s response as it seems to have been deleted. Did you do that? Not that I care but I just find it interesting this back-and-forth sometime. I get banned from UA-cam all the time but that’s because of political objections. anyway hope you have a happy new year and your Carr continues to run as expected… planned obsolescence is going to get all of us in the end though because we know they could build a machine that could last our lifetime and we wouldn’t have to buy several cars. I’ve had 40 because I don’t wanna fuck with the repairs but now I’m old and a fixed income so I’m trying to get as much life as I can my dearly departed wife, mini countryman with 120,000 miles on it now I’ve got an oil leak that I’ve got to spend a bunch of money to get repaired… it would only cost like $15 to get the so I’m thinking about waiting until it gets warmer and having my buddy help me he said he would terms turn some wrenches with me. I just hope I don’t ruin everything… because that would indicate I’ve entered the twilight zone of Caddyshack,where, ”… you’ll get nothing, …and like it!!”.😂

@@pdlegend6829 so long as the filter has a bypass there will be no oil starvation. But either way yes, change it often and the stuff does what it says!

@@softwaresignals they recommend running it for several oil changes to get the complete result.

@@MrSamPhoenix me too but it’s a complete PITA to take off and put back on with these Volvo 5cyls. Not like a normal setup.

@ I feel your pain.

@@MrSamPhoenix Access is easy but the "valve cover" on these engines is a structural piece with the upper half of the cam journals. Gotta lock the cams in place, take off the timing belt, and something like 40 bolts in very specific sequence. Uses anaerobic sealant instead of RTV or standard gasket. I had to do that job twice on my slightly older V70. These models have a baffle beneath the oil filler cap too, so can't even get a good look. Earlier models lacked the baffle so could see the #3 intake cams through the fill port and get an idea of how much crud was in the top end.

You dont need to unless your engine is really bad. Change your filter after 1000 miles if you're concerned.

@@Daniel-qe8qe are you saying you couldn’t hear me clearly in the video? It’s clear on my end and no one else has mentioned this. Maybe it’s time for some ear pieces? Lol

@DirtE30 no, it's definitely YOU.

@ ok… sounds perfectly normal and easily understood from this end. Not sure what the issue is on your end. Anyone else?

@DirtE30 anyone else? You have roughly 400 subs and a handful of damn comments, it's not like you're "reaching out there" lol.

I think the low tension thing is what’s gonna make this product famous… Not sure what you mean by “mobilize contaminants”… removing the filter and cleaning the housing etc and installing a new filter isn’t mobilizing anything that wasn’t already mobile.

Others have done examination of the VVT parts before and after using restore and protect, and it cleaned all of the VVT parts and smoothed up their idle. Cleaned the varnish and sludge from screens in the VVT solenoids, making them look brand new again.

​@DirtE30 I think he means that the VR&P does such a good job of loosening junk and getting it moving toward the filter. All that movement of lots of junk has to pass thru the engine from wherever it is, just to GET to the filter. That's a lot of opportunity for large amounts of dislodged junk to get into places where it can cause more harm. How much of that actually happens in an engine I have no personal experience. But some people have posted about it. And in cases of major-ly sludged-up engines it does make perfect sense. I do have experience of that happening with an automatic transmission once, so I do understand it. I think that @EvzenKovar-i5p was saying that for major-ly sludged-up engines, instead of that risk, if one stays with a good synthetic with high additives, but not VR&P and just reduce the interval, it will remove junk much more gradually with less chances of getting large amounts caught in other areas of the engine. That said, I wrote and asked Valvoline about it, and they wrote back and specifically said it's designed to work at a more gentle pace, and not clog filters at all. But I've now seen several videos where it HAS clogged a filter. The stuff apparently DOES WORK and VERY WELL. It just makes a LOT of sense if I'm gonna use it to CHANGE JUST THE FILTER after a very short time, say 1000 to 2500 miles as @DirtE30 said right in this vid. Cut open the filter and see where I am. Run the oil itself for 5000 miles is fine, but at least one filter change if not two, and OPEN THEM to see where I am. Gradually extend the miles on each filter as I am finding them clean.

If I had an engine that was heavily sludged, I would worry that mobilizing that stuff would constrict small passageways and screens. Now maybe VR&P can break it down small enough for this not to be a concern, but I would be hesitant at least with those fine screens that feed oil into the variable valve timing solenoids of so many modern engines. Ultimately, I’m not sure if my reasoning is well founded. Those comments of mine were sorta me just thinking out loud.

@@kevinkinsler I tend to disagree on the Fram side.

@DirtE30 I will be honest, Fram has more miles in the last 4 decades, than Any filter,The Synthetic Endurance filters down to 20 micron and for $11 bucks at Wal-Mart it CANT be beaten. But I understand your opinion....Their cheapest filters seem junkie, however they are proven for decades.

​@@DirtE30There's a lot of testing on FRAM Synthetic filters and they're decent filters. They've got cheap ones that I wouldn't touch, but they do have good filters. Get what you pay for.

@@andreichichak5242 I replaced the TB and water pump first thing. Not a hard job on these really. I have also replaced the PCV system in its entirety. Along with every other weak point I could find lol. 😂

@@andreichichak5242 did you sue them?

@@DirtE30 No, I'm in Canada and we don't play that card very frequently, plus the dealership changed hands in the mean time, so the liability chain would be broken.

@ I would still think that simple paperwork and proof that you paid for work that wasn’t done would be grounds for them to make it right. One way or another. Sorry that happened to you. Neighbor had the same thing happen locally recently. I ended up confronting the dealership about it. They had zero intentions of fessing up until I posted a video with evidence and they suddenly had a change of heart.

@@andreichichak5242figures, ‘bout the change of owners. First response you get is did you sue. People are so *short sighted.

@@monoralph1375 100%. The PCV design on these is asinine. I recently replaced it. Hoping for another 100k miles! I almost always use FCP! Actually just replaced the front sway bar assembly which I sourced from them.

Just finished taking Samples from my 2014 GMC Terrain AWD 2.4L Ecotec and changed the XG9018 Filter at 3000 miles. (Even Recorded my first UA-cam (Short) Video to Document it). The "Black" was still consistently distributed and the Pleats weren't"Caked/Sludged" at all... the Oil from the Cap was fluid and didn't seem "dirty" or chunky. Unlike before (811 miles vs 3008 miles) the Filter Pleats didn't return to a bright white when pressed/scraped... They did lighten some (kind of looking more like a "traditional" brownish Filter Media... But also rather dark, wouldn't think it was ever White and the "brown" more likely... The back (clean") side of the filter looked "good", no "dirty Oil" or fully "Darkened" Pleats on the "filtered" side. Had Intended to do a full Drain/Filter today but I also wanted to see what the Analysis looked like and if VRP and a fresh filter would still perform for another 1000-2000 (5k) miles. Had been down about 1/2 quart before sampling today... It was taking a long while to "drain down" so I "topped off" with about 20 Oz of Quaker State 5W30 Full Synthetic (DexosGen3)... To hopefully get back to around the 1/2Qt low I started with after "filling" the new Cartridge Filter... Will be interesting to see if just 4 (of 5Qts) of VRP can still do a fair amount of cleaning work with the Quaker State "Contamination" holding it back...

Agree 100%, see followup video!

It goes to the filter, but the oil is also designed to hold a lot of it in suspension. It does a great job of that. Definitely advisable to do a short interval if it's the first time using it and you know your engine is likely very dirty.

@@brassmule Bingo. Anything smaller than 5 microns is likely going through the filter pleats anyway, like you said the oil is formulated to hold contaminants in suspension.

Odd… Bet it will be available shortly. It’s pretty new. In the mean time just throw some Timmy’s down its yap… that’ll clean er up bud!

@@DirtE30 I cant wait for it to be available I have a few vehicles I want to try it out on.

@@A2J_Tim You can get a case from rockauto.

The BUYER BEWARE is about the oil filter clogging issue… not the oil. It clearly works. I never said otherwise in the title or the video. See followup video.

Follow up video earns a subscription. Thank you.

Interesting. I’d be curious to know what kind of filter you were using as well. I have seen nothing but problems from Motorcraft blend.

Fairly certain he mentioned this Engine had/has a sludge issue... So Yes while Valvoline does claim VRP won't clog the Filter during a normal Change Interval... It can't/doesn't guarantee an "abused" (dirty) engine won't show a heavily dirty filter. I myself am coming up on 3000 miles on my 2014 2.4L GMC Terrain's first interval with VRP and when I checked my filter at 811 miles it (FRAM Ultra Synthetic XG9018) it looked similar to this one... Can't say it had any heavy deposits... But compared to another vehicle's filter (@700 miles, uses same filters as the Terrain) it still retained much of its original color (K&N red)... IMO, I wasn't expecting the K&N to be in such good shape (that engine while having used Synthetic for much of its 21 Years/192k miles it had been consuming Oil, and I fully expected to see a lot more Carbon/build up... but VRP still did its job and the Engine didn't burn Oil during that Interval and seemed to perform very nicely with it... As for the Terrain's filter (which was a brilliant shock white when new and when Pleast were scraped or pressed it still revealed the white pleats underneath, until the Oil soaked back in. So yes the Filter did its job... The Oil on the Dipstick also still looks relatively "Clean" (clear/golden)... while not its original virtually translucent, hard to read on the Dipstick color.. it still wasn't anywhere near what other Oils tend to look like when it (the Oil and/or filter) is reaching a point where it either isn't suspending/retaining the Insolubles or its showing signs of age/early breakdown(?)... Suspect if the Filter (which for my Ultra Synthetic is like rated for 20,000 miles) were struggling the Oil would be showing a darker/dirtier color... But so far it's looking good Looking forward to seeing what my XG9018 looks like at 3000... Since my other vehicle (2003 Saturn ION) had always tended to show used filters to have a very twisted appearance after 3000-8000 mile service... The Ultra Synthetic with its "reinforced" mesh lining apparently should resolve that... Was also concerned how the used filters looked to "shrink" a bit after twisting... Was worried about performance issues... But Oil Analysis usually indicated that insolubles and Change Intervals were good... Just wish in the Big Picture Valvoline's Restore and Protect had been offered Years ago... to have "solved" my ION's Oil Consumption issues years ago... Then I could have spent more time/money on protecting its rusting Frame (which is what caused its "early" retirement in September... Not worth getting it Winter Ready when the Frame is like Sandstone... Just a matter of time the already large holes/cracks resulted in Catastrophic failure...

What propaganda?! I said in the video we bought it with 125k miles on it, not my doing! It’s clearly not had good maintenance. I DO 5k mile synthetic changes and will going forward on this vehicle as well.

The uploader didn’t say anything wrong. He basically said that Valvoline Restore and Protect is actually doing its job. He’s just recommending either doing a full oil change sooner, or at least change the oil filter a little often.

But that's the problem people believe the myth of, oil can go 10k 😂. Even the top tier synthetic should be changed at 5k. The 7, 8 and 10k pushed by the manufacturer, oil companies and Bob the oil guy website are contributing to engine damage.

@@fredted1611 My 2003 Saturn ION claimed I didn't need to use Synthetics... But I ignored that. Ran Full Synthetics most of its 21 years. The OLM would go between 6-8K miles (Saturn specifically said 6 months/6000 miles (Did not outline if/how I should use the OLM.). Long story short with Oil Analysis for nearly 20 years on that vehicle the "Oil" (Full Synthetic Mind You) was capable for that 6-8K mile run... Now had I actually used the Conventional for the 192K miles I put on it (with in later years Oil Consumption) I'm not sure the Oil Analysis would have been the same... Regardless, even with my GMC 2.4L Ecotec I can't reliably get/meet the OLM's 7500 miles/12 Month Interval. Basically will be shooting for 3-5K miles/6 months/50%-60% OLM unless and until Analysis says I can even attempt going more

Waiting for your results!

@huke2830 im going to send an oil sample out to speed diagnostix soon, I'll make a video on what it comes back with

@@js-wq6zy well, there’s a hundred ways to do anything I supposed. This was the path of least resistance, plenty of air flow. Tested and proven results. Report back when you have yours installed. Love to see it!

@@325-k9k keep in mind that this is when cold… in a hot engine you just shut off, neither “stick” to anything.

@@weloveups831 demonstrably not true my friend. Cooler lowers temps drastically vs not having it. The TRD pro grill provides plenty of flow, there’s also a ton of flow that comes up from under in my experience.