Mate this such well put together channel... I'm a camera operator and a DIY fan, just half way through a hexagon tile project in the shower thank's to your video ... keep the format, it's really well done!
I normally just allow about 5mm mate, As once you push it down it will compact anyway.. So if I had a 10mm tile, Leaving about 15mm would be fine. Hope that helps!
@@philipmarshall6662 Awesome, Glad you're liking them mate.. I do have another one on niche (cutting it out of a whole tile) which hopefully will be done by tomorrow.
Great video mate really informative. I have a couple of questions: 1. What is the reason for the wedges under the first row of tiles? Can you not just cut to the floor? 2. Do you put spread lines on every job, no matter the size or bond of the tiles? Cheers
Hey mate thanks! Wedges just help if you need to get the tile to where you need it, Like I would normally cut allowing 2mm play (wiggle room), and then use wedges to get to my line. But yes of course, cut to the floor. On my job there, I lowered the floor after I cut the tiles hence the bigger gap than usual. And Yeah I would generally put spread lines every few rows, This is so you can check them with a level every so often without it being covered in adhesive. Also it gives you a good point to stop for a breather. If you check my subway tile video, you'll see I work down from a spread line down (as they are light tiles) Hope that helps mate!
@@thebespokebloke ok I see, so you’d leave the cut 2mm short at the bottom of the tile to allow space for a wedge underneath that allows you more flexibility to push the tile up to the line? Is there a size limit where you tile down from the line rather than up from the floor?
@@karl4902 Basically mate, You'll also never cut a tile to the exact size it needs to be. Even if you do, A bump in the shower tray/floor will throw you off your line.so it's best to give yourself a few mill of play. Even half a mill, will throw your tiles out over a distance, So the most important thing is to just make sure your first line is dead Level. Regards working up or down, It's just purley down to weight of the tile.. Large heavy tiles I'd work up, Ceramic tiles which have a lot of grip I'd tend to work down first.
Thanks mate, It's because I couldn't fit the trowel in horizontal I believe. I'd be wary about nicking the shower tray going across. But it makes no difference either way, Whatever is easier for you at the time mate.
@@thebespokebloke Thanks for the reply I did wonder if it was easy vertical again the tray. I am about to start my bathroom and have found your videos very helpful.
One question I have is about scoring and snapping hexagon tile (have a Rubi cutter)… the back score first isn’t something I was doing and has helped a lot but is there also an optimum way to snap hexagon tiles, the top of the diamond side goes slightly past the fence of my cutter and sometimes the tile shatters. I also have a wetsaw with a new diamond cut 180mm blade but get quite bad chipping on ceramic tile… was hoping for a factory edge being a power tool but I’m probably being a bit naive here
Hey mate, It is the issue with not having a push down mechanism on the Rubi (I presume it's pull and snap) The other thing you can do I suggested the other day, Is score and then snap with your hands, that sometimes works well,especially with ceramic tiles. Regards the wet saw, It shouldn't chip ceramic tiles. So could be the cutter or blade. I'd recommend if all else fails, Just getting a Rubi Red Diamond disc for the angle grinder. You should have no problems with that. Ideally though, Like I talk about in my Sigma cutter video..The Sigma cutter with its mechanism is optimal for these kind of things. Hope that helps mate
Just subscribed to your chanel, Great videos mate, i am learning a lot from you, i am an experienced Diyer so like to have a go at a lot of different trades in my own home and family. Can i ask what tiling tools you use, i only have a montolit 600mm cutter, your sigma is a beast, what tile levelling system are you using?, also what porcelain tile blade for your grinder, and what diamond holesaws do you use?, you go into great detail which is great, i also like how you show how to fit chrome trims around a window or niche. Would love to see you cutting square holes for switches etc. Do you cut from the front and back,? Please show any awkward cuts how you do them, eg. a cut around a WC, around a pedestal, a shower tray etc. Keep the vids coming, love your work, P.S i forgot to mention i used to use a timber horizontal batten for the first row, but i like your method better, cutting the tiles to a line and levelling with wedges at floor level, all the best Kevin
Awesome, Glad you're liking them mate! It's always good to get feedback as I'm just a Tiler and a bit new to this UA-cam stuff! At the start of the video, That's most of the hand tools I use (I'll add the brands to the description) I use a Rubi Mixer, Dewalt laser, and Bosch slim line grinder (These are the best for intricate work like tiling) Level Clips are GLS Spin By Genesis, Diamond Hole cutters are made by Bosch, Angle grinder blade is a Red Rubi Porcelain, or a Blue Bihui in this video. With the New Sigma series being out, there maybe some good deals to be had on series 3 cutters! For sockets and squares it depends a bit on the tile, But generally from the back, As you can run the blade past your marks to a certain degree to get the piece out. For like a toilet flush plate, I'd probably go front so I can control the chipping, then flip the tile and finish on the back to remove the piece.
Tilling is a lot like decorating so much prep work. Well done thanks for posting 👍🏾
Thanks man, Yep you get the prep right and you're already 50% there!
Mate this such well put together channel... I'm a camera operator and a DIY fan, just half way through a hexagon tile project in the shower thank's to your video ... keep the format, it's really well done!
Awesome! Thanks mate, and thanks for the kind words. Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask any questions.
What a stunning job. So well thought out and communicated.
Thanks, and thanks for your kind words. It's always hard to find the best way of explaining things, So that helps alot!
Another great video mate! Keep em coming. Great work
Thanks mate!
Quick question, may sound dumb, but how do you judge the adhesive depth when setting your trim .
I normally just allow about 5mm mate, As once you push it down it will compact anyway.. So if I had a 10mm tile, Leaving about 15mm would be fine. Hope that helps!
It's a big help, thankyou. Your videos are excellent, best I've seen. You are a true craftsman.
@@philipmarshall6662 Awesome, Glad you're liking them mate.. I do have another one on niche (cutting it out of a whole tile) which hopefully will be done by tomorrow.
Quality video mate keep up the good work
Thanks mate! Glad you liked it
Great video! Thank you for a lot of useful information. Keep it up mate! :)
Awesome, Glad you liked it and found it helpful!
Excellent video and work
Thank you very much!
A few extra tips for my job thanks
Awesome, Good luck mate!
mate Benfer tile adhesive is the king in my opinion
The Italian stallion.. A bit like Kerakoll
Great video mate really informative. I have a couple of questions:
1. What is the reason for the wedges under the first row of tiles? Can you not just cut to the floor?
2. Do you put spread lines on every job, no matter the size or bond of the tiles?
Cheers
Hey mate thanks! Wedges just help if you need to get the tile to where you need it, Like I would normally cut allowing 2mm play (wiggle room), and then use wedges to get to my line. But yes of course, cut to the floor. On my job there, I lowered the floor after I cut the tiles hence the bigger gap than usual. And Yeah I would generally put spread lines every few rows, This is so you can check them with a level every so often without it being covered in adhesive. Also it gives you a good point to stop for a breather. If you check my subway tile video, you'll see I work down from a spread line down (as they are light tiles) Hope that helps mate!
@@thebespokebloke ok I see, so you’d leave the cut 2mm short at the bottom of the tile to allow space for a wedge underneath that allows you more flexibility to push the tile up to the line? Is there a size limit where you tile down from the line rather than up from the floor?
@@karl4902 Basically mate, You'll also never cut a tile to the exact size it needs to be. Even if you do, A bump in the shower tray/floor will throw you off your line.so it's best to give yourself a few mill of play. Even half a mill, will throw your tiles out over a distance, So the most important thing is to just make sure your first line is dead Level. Regards working up or down, It's just purley down to weight of the tile.. Large heavy tiles I'd work up, Ceramic tiles which have a lot of grip I'd tend to work down first.
@@thebespokebloke thanks for the advice, looking forward to more videos 👍
Great video and great work I noticed your adhesive started vertical then went horizontal on the second row is there a reason?
Thanks mate, It's because I couldn't fit the trowel in horizontal I believe. I'd be wary about nicking the shower tray going across. But it makes no difference either way, Whatever is easier for you at the time mate.
@@thebespokebloke Thanks for the reply I did wonder if it was easy vertical again the tray. I am about to start my bathroom and have found your videos very helpful.
@@clivebrown645 Awesome, Good luck and any questions don't hesitate to ask!
@@thebespokebloke Thanks very much.
One question I have is about scoring and snapping hexagon tile (have a Rubi cutter)… the back score first isn’t something I was doing and has helped a lot but is there also an optimum way to snap hexagon tiles, the top of the diamond side goes slightly past the fence of my cutter and sometimes the tile shatters.
I also have a wetsaw with a new diamond cut 180mm blade but get quite bad chipping on ceramic tile… was hoping for a factory edge being a power tool but I’m probably being a bit naive here
Hey mate, It is the issue with not having a push down mechanism on the Rubi (I presume it's pull and snap) The other thing you can do I suggested the other day, Is score and then snap with your hands, that sometimes works well,especially with ceramic tiles. Regards the wet saw, It shouldn't chip ceramic tiles. So could be the cutter or blade. I'd recommend if all else fails, Just getting a Rubi Red Diamond disc for the angle grinder. You should have no problems with that. Ideally though, Like I talk about in my Sigma cutter video..The Sigma cutter with its mechanism is optimal for these kind of things. Hope that helps mate
Just subscribed to your chanel, Great videos mate, i am learning a lot from you, i am an experienced Diyer so like to have a go at a lot of different trades in my own home and family. Can i ask what tiling tools you use, i only have a montolit 600mm cutter, your sigma is a beast, what tile levelling system are you using?, also what porcelain tile blade for your grinder, and what diamond holesaws do you use?, you go into great detail which is great, i also like how you show how to fit chrome trims around a window or niche. Would love to see you cutting square holes for switches etc. Do you cut from the front and back,?
Please show any awkward cuts how you do them, eg. a cut around a WC, around a pedestal, a shower tray etc. Keep the vids coming, love your work,
P.S i forgot to mention i used to use a timber horizontal batten for the first row, but i like your method better, cutting the tiles to a line and levelling with wedges at floor level, all the best Kevin
Awesome, Glad you're liking them mate! It's always good to get feedback as I'm just a Tiler and a bit new to this UA-cam stuff! At the start of the video, That's most of the hand tools I use (I'll add the brands to the description) I use a Rubi Mixer, Dewalt laser, and Bosch slim line grinder (These are the best for intricate work like tiling) Level Clips are GLS Spin By Genesis, Diamond Hole cutters are made by Bosch, Angle grinder blade is a Red Rubi Porcelain, or a Blue Bihui in this video. With the New Sigma series being out, there maybe some good deals to be had on series 3 cutters! For sockets and squares it depends a bit on the tile, But generally from the back, As you can run the blade past your marks to a certain degree to get the piece out. For like a toilet flush plate, I'd probably go front so I can control the chipping, then flip the tile and finish on the back to remove the piece.
Very difficult to hear what you’re saying.
Yeah sorry, You may have to go with the subtitles for now mate, Luckily I've got a better mic these days 👌