Caution...I used a 16 penney nail spacer with 2x6 decking that was "really" moist. Bad choice for me as the spacing really opened up . I wish I had butted the decking tight. Watch what your decking is like on install.
you should never tap the spacer nail into the surface of the 2x6 or what ever the frame boards are, doing that opens the surface of the wood allowing water to enter and sit in that 1/4" inch or so hole/divet you just created and that promotes rot. Drive your spacer nail completely through a scrap piece of wood maybe a 4x4" piece of cutoff then simply drop the nail into the gap using the block to keep it from falling through, secure your deck board by whichever means you're using and lift your blocks out moving them to the next location.
Once ive got the first board on where i think it should be i then measure to the end of the frsme to check its square. Also i get the timber delibered couple weeks prior to let it acclimatise a bit.
I don't understand why you wouldn't space the boards. Why would I care if the spacing went from 1/8 to 1/4? I've seen multiple decks rot because the pressure treated wood didn't shrink as expected. No gap seems much worse than a wider gap that is nearly impossible to notice
Tilt your palm sander, it will create a low spot. Perhaps u can feather it out. Beats holding the palm sander level and sanding it for 20 minutes. Don't use a flap wheel unless u know ur grits. 60 grit flap wheel will most def create a noticeable low spot. @@rudyferrell
Caution...I used a 16 penney nail spacer with 2x6 decking that was "really" moist. Bad choice for me as the spacing really opened up . I wish I had butted the decking tight. Watch what your decking is like on install.
The guidance I needed! Thanks.
you should never tap the spacer nail into the surface of the 2x6 or what ever the frame boards are, doing that opens the surface of the wood allowing water to enter and sit in that 1/4" inch or so hole/divet you just created and that promotes rot.
Drive your spacer nail completely through a scrap piece of wood maybe a 4x4" piece of cutoff then simply drop the nail into the gap using the block to keep it from falling through, secure your deck board by whichever means you're using and lift your blocks out moving them to the next location.
Best video I've found thank you
Once ive got the first board on where i think it should be i then measure to the end of the frsme to check its square.
Also i get the timber delibered couple weeks prior to let it acclimatise a bit.
good info
Gapping shouldn't be necessary with pressure treated lumber as it shrinks a little anyway, do you agree?
If the decking board is totally dry then you need a gap, but most of the time they're wet so they go tight together
Ive never done this work b4 some ppl say have the boards tight as possible when screwing down whys ur method leave a gap
Spacing off your ledger board isn’t always prudent as not all concrete/wall surfaces are straight.
Butt them together, they will shrink in width after they dry and then you will have your spacing
True... Watch what your Decking is like ...
Are those 1x6 on the deck
5/4x6
I don't understand why you wouldn't space the boards. Why would I care if the spacing went from 1/8 to 1/4? I've seen multiple decks rot because the pressure treated wood didn't shrink as expected. No gap seems much worse than a wider gap that is nearly impossible to notice
Amen!! I’ve seen that too. 🤦♂️
I ran into a problem last time where there was an ink stamp on every board. Is there any way to avoid that?
Sand it
Tilt your palm sander, it will create a low spot. Perhaps u can feather it out. Beats holding the palm sander level and sanding it for 20 minutes. Don't use a flap wheel unless u know ur grits. 60 grit flap wheel will most def create a noticeable low spot. @@rudyferrell
She's speaking of values to this thing with no values, nor value.
Just backspin the screw before driving it in.
You'll never split a board.
None of them pre drill shenanigans.