DIY Deck Part 9 - Fastening Deck Boards
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- How-to-do-it-yourself patio/deck, fastening deck boards to joists and beam.
01:24 How to place deck boards with the crown facing up.
02:09 How to attach shim and deck board under doorsill.
02:54 How to measure deck for squareness and alignment.
03:57 How to space deck boards.
04:44 How to screw down deck boards.
05:11 How to straighten bowed deck board #1.
06:56 How to measure and calculate board count.
08:29 How to straighten bowed deck board #2.
09:18 How to screw down deck boards in a straight line.
10:29 How to attach deck flashing.
11:51 How to rip a deck board and round the edge.
13:10 How to cut deck board ready for deck post.
14:16 How to cut and seal end boards. - Навчання та стиль
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Thank you for your question.
It depends on your taste. I like board-&-batten or clapboard siding.
At 3.20 "So I'm only off by an eight", what a true old school builder. Do it once and do it right, this is something that I am always aiming for in my various home renovations. Thanks for your knowledge Pete, I found it very interesting and helpful.
Thank you for your kind comment.
10:38, did you say flashing...Kitty cat in the background,...'Yes, he did.'
Excellent video! I appreciate that you comment on each detail (however “minor”). The deck is looking beautiful!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for the nice comment.
You young guys need to pay attention to this. This is one of the few correct ways to flash a deck. He uses tar paper on the joists, pilot holes, wedges, leverage blocks, etc. Experience counts for everything. Great video!
Thank you for your kind comment.
Just tore up a deck that collapsed and did it the right and safe way. So in other words, some of you old guys need to pay attention to this too.
@ 7:43 now he decides to figure out if he’s gonna have a toothpick for the final run! I’m sending him a Fuel impact so I never have to listen to my great grandfathers drill running a screw again! Please post your address or message me with it and the fuel will be in the mail as long as you promise to use it!
Ha!Ha! Thanks for the offer. Maybe at a later date.
When I use pressure treated decking which is often what we refer to as swamp dried because it's so wet, I don't put a space between the boards. I install them tight together and when they dry out I have a gap of 1/8 to 3/16 ".
Thank you for your nice comment.
My deck boards dried out and left a gap of 1/8" to 3/16", too.
Pete, if you drill the boards with the cup up, if the board is sawn down the middle of the tree you will get a huge sliver that will rise up and stab someone in the future. Put the smile down or watch each board for the dreaded center cut.
Thank you for your comment.
And thanks for joining the debate on cup up or cup down.
You may have more honest merchants up north than down here in the states ;-) but I have found a lot of variation from the "expected" dimension on decking, sometimes up to 1/8" short. I always take a measurement of say 5 boards and then divide to find the true average dimension.
Thanks for your comment.
It's not so much about honesty as it is about mill settings.
Variations seem to occur between different batches of lumber, especially if they're done different mills.
Are you sure? I think the rings should face down, when screwed down they will stay down.
Yes, I'm sure. I've had boards that cupped and buckled so bad that they popped off the screw heads.
absolutlely, smile down, unless you want to walk across and trip every other step
I do it the opposite way myself, I was always taught that it was always crown down. Thats what I remember on a deck I don't like crown up myself. Yes the screws will pop on occasion, with crown up they snap to though. The difference is it won't stick up as bad with the crown down. Boards stick up and you trip on them. I showed a friend recently how to do it because of that exact reason. I wouldn't recommend not leaving any gap either, the water will not be able to drain when it does swell up. If you do it with dry wood and it swells up, there's a good chance that boards may bow because they have no where to swell up. If the wood is new and freshly cut it won't be as bad, when they swell up the water will have no where to go over time though. Dirt and stuff like that will get in between the spaces, if it swells in the rain the dirt and grime acts like a gasket over time. The water will follow the least path of resistance, if it's towards the house it will eventually get into the house over time from rot that is caused by the standing water till it finds a way to drain. The reason there's a good chance it goes towards the house is from settling of the house on new conduction especially. Old construction not as much but the gap is good to have. In any climate the water can drain through every piece and won't build up in one spot. Me personally i like to use a piece of wood thats bowed bad for a cut piece. I will try to prevent having to put it in so it dosent twist up in time thats me though. He did do a really good job on the whole deck and gives a lot of good tips to people on a lot of the processes. Always pay attention to an older person when they are talking or teaching you something. Sometimes it may sound like rambling but a person that has been on this planet for 60 or 80 years will know and have seen a lot in that time. I've always respected my elders as I come closer and closer myself they will talk a lot and if you listen in between what people think is rambling on there will be a lot of very good knowledge. This man took his time to film it and give his knowledge to us I'm thankful that people still do that. Nice job if you read this and thank you for the videos, people like him help save the average person good hard earned money thank you. May you be blessed with the time you have on this earth👍👍
@@thecollector5316 Thank you for the nice comment and building tips. Rings facing up or rings facing down seems to always start a good debate. As for spacing between deck boards, what you said is correct. Also, climate plays a role in spacing. My deck boards were butted up close during installation, but now there's a 1/8 - 1/4-inch gap.
@@BasaPetethe reason that I say it's good to leave a space cause if the wood gets to saturated it will swell. The only way that it wouldn't is if the wood didn't suck the water back in at all. They butted the joints on the house that I'm in and I have to take it all apart for that reason. The water dosent go between the decking and pools up towards the house to the point where there's moss growing along the whole side of the house. I'm gonna try to get it done somehow this year but I gotta defiantly get it done after winter. When we get long rain storms or flash flood conditions the water comes in every time right into the basement. That was the only reason I said anything at all because of what I'm going through. If they had spaced it the water would run right through no matter how much it swells up. That deck is gonna be there for a long time you braced and built that like a pro. I've seen some hack jobs in my life and yours was NOT one of them. You braced that bad boy real good and gave good advice. I've seen decks on the 3rd floor no where near as well built and sturdy as yours. For anyone who is looking to build a deck and don't know how, you just watched part of how to do it right. If you go to the first parts of this series and watch it from the beginning you'll know how to build one sturdy deck. He pretty much shows You what you'll need to know to build a good deck. You may need to tweak a few things depending on climate and code thats it. If your are going to leave a gap you have to factor it in on each piece for the ripper at the house. The reason I say that is cause it looks like you fastened it down at the edge (outside) of the deck. Close to the house where you cut the ripper also looked fastened down. At that point if you don't have the right measurements the ripper will be off. At that point you'll have to rip another ripper and put it in or take the ripper you have already thats the wrong size and recut it. I used to leave about a 1/8th of an inch for each board and factor it into the measurement. I would tack the ripper so if it feel perfect it was in place. If it needed to be tweaked at all you could take it right out and do whatever you need to do. I always made my adjustment a few boards to the end so everything isn't nailed. Then cause you have to rip the piece close to the house it's only tacked you make your adjustment now nail the ripper. Then put the last 2 pieces in and it would fit perfect.
Excellent videos. Very informative. Detailed and to the point. Nice to see a true professional at work. Thank you.
Thank You for the nice comment.
1:58 the guys at work say its the other way around. a sad mouth down
Thank you for your comment.
Wood grains up or down? Take a wide board (1x6 or 1x8) with wood grains curving to one side and lay it out in the weather. Then, in a week or two check which way the cup is facing. I did this same experiment with three different boards and they all cupped against the grains. Strange.
@@BasaPete well some people say that the side facing the wheater will cup no matter what. I always put the best looking side up
@@meandnature6452 I've done several decks with the tree rings facing up (Previously, I didn't care which way the tree rings faced) and so far only a few boards have severe cupping. And those cupped boards were bad enough to replace. They cupped and twisted so bad that they snapped off some of the screw heads.
@@BasaPete oh wow! well there is some force in wood
Me and Nature ... I still don’t understand which direction you guys are talking about , “...grain/cup up or down...” Every Carpenter I know lays every plank with the “Cup” of the end-grain upside down ie; with the bottom of the “Cup” facing UP sooo the rainwater follows “the wood grain” off the top of the planks so to increase the life of the deck, Instead of water laying inside the “Cup”
Chorded impact? That's hardcore
How badly would it affect the lifespan of your deck if you didn’t use cut n seal. I did use butyl tape on the joists tho . Very informative video , thank you!
Thank you for your comment.
Using Cut N Seal should prolong the life of my deck by 10 - 20 years. Of course, it depends on the climate in your area.
Our deck was built 12yrs ago. Two tiers 45' x 50' and 45' x 20'. A team of 5 built it but a team of one (me) is taking the decking up and replacing it. The supports are in good shape. Watched your video twice. Once to see what it was all about and once to take notes.
Thank you for your comment.
Good luck with your project.
I didn’t understand your cupping advice about how the wood dries on the video. Wouldn’t you want the lines (that to me look like a smile) be like the cup was sitting upside down on (or the smile was a sad face) for the water to run off? Were you saying that as the board dries, it the smile actually turns into a sad face, or , to use your analogy, the cup turns itself upside down?
Thank you for your question.
To understand the cupping of wood, take a new board and let it dry. Surprisingly, the smile (as you call it) won't turn into a frown, but the board will cup opposite to the smile.
Pressure treated lumber will shrink when it dries and a gap between the deck boards will naturally occur so I always butt them up against each other to avoid to wide a gap.
Thank you for your comment.
There’s a definite Irish “twang” to your accent.
Excellent video thank you..
I once spent an enjoyable week hiking in the Swiss Mountains with a bunch of Irish guys. Does that count?
Thank you for the nice comment.
It only counts if you drank Guinness.. even then I’d say you were a bit of a Paddy..
Stay Safe ✌️
@@BasaPete 8
Hi from New Zealand,
EARMUFFS, EARMUFFS, EAR PROTECTION, HEARING PROTECTION, whatever you want to call it. Basa Pete about now, you must be saying 'pardon or eh' when people talk to you. If you don't now you soon will.
Have nursed so many tradies/builders/engineers/ machine operators who at the beginning of their young careers just simply neglected to wear personal protective gear. Today they have impaired hearing /respiratory problems/ impaired eyesight or loss of a limb. Otherwise thank you for sharing with the world.
Why did you use Phillips head screws instead of the hex type
Thanks for the question.
I didn't use Phillips head screws. I used Robertson square-head screws.
I've never seen anyone use hex type screws for decking.
What kind of deck screws did you use? 😂😂😂
#8 x 3" green deck screws.
Thank you
Thank you this is very helpful! We are building a large deck so we will need to use multiple pieces of deck boards on same run. We are not ready to seal the whole deck but we want to follow your advice about the “ends”. What brand sealer do you recommend for sealing the ends?
Thank you for your nice comment and question.
I use Cut-N-Seal. It comes in two colours, cedar, and light brown.
Thank you for saying not to space the deck boards . So many people ( professionals ) say to space them . I call bull . All pressure treated will shrink . If you want a big gap between the boards than go ahead and space them . Tight together and they will shrink to give you a small gap . Pressure treated wood shrinks all the time . Have even seen that on fence boards . Tight and you end up with a small gap . Space them out and you have a large gap . Now for using a corded tool . So what . You use what you have . Some people were calling it a junky house . How dare they . You are talking about a man's home . Like to see what their sh*t box home looks like . Great video series . Thank you .
Thank you for your nice comment. Here in my neck of the woods, wood always shrinks, especially in direct sunlight.
Ahhhhhh, I've seen dry wood put in tight and when it gets humid or wet, it swells and buckles at the joints. So its not true that it always shrinks. Depends how dry or wet the lumber is when its put in place.
Sure if the wood is super dry but it's never like that at the store .
@@AnonYmous-qg4ph Thanks for weighing in. True, it depends on the moisture content of the boards. However, in my experience in my neck of the wood even kiln dry wood will shrink a little. Mind you, if I lived in a humid climate shrinkage may not be the norm and I'd have to adjust the gap between the boards.
This Part 9 is the first of your videos that I've watched and, after just the first couple of minutes I can tell that you know what you're doing.
Thank you for your kind comment.
Good video.....
I’m doing my deck at home at the moment and I’m very worried about getting from one end to the other end and finding its out of Square..... so these videos are good
one thing though I always thought the boards were meant to go bark-side-up up so the cup would be facing down and not up if you know what I mean maybe I’m getting it wrong.....
Thank you for your comment.
Bark-side-up or bark-side-down is a very debatable topic. Several years ago I took two 1"x8" boards, one with bark-side-up and the other bark-side-down, and believe or not, both boards cupped toward the bark. Weird!
Basa Pete yup..... maybe if it’s kiln dried it doesn’t matter..... I paid extra for kiln dried 5.7m lengths to avoid butt joints so fingers crossed.....
For those who have one straight wall to measure off of, it is a piece of cake. My wall is very compound. Needed to use 7 different ledger boards. It is quite impossible to measure for square. I just eyeballed everything.
10:38 the cat came form under the deck oO
He's a great mouser.
Good video very helpful and I liked the crowning of the board tip never new that
Thank you for your nice comment.
If you told me this was bubbles long lost dad, I believe you.
Cup is spose to face down
The debate continues...
Decking boards best side up doesn't make a different crown up or down. If fastener correctly you won't have any issues
Thabk you for your comment.
Pressure treated wood and aluminum flashing used together is a " NO NO ". The chemicals in the TW will corrode-oxadise the aluminum. We'll use either a copper flashing or put down the ice shield first, under the aluminum and screw the flashing down using stainless steel screws. It's the code where are. Other than that, great job.
Thank you for your comment.
No corrode-oxidize as of yet. However, there is a little oxidized discoloration on some of the zinc-plated fasteners. Nothing to worry about, though.
Great video. You do fabulous work, sir!!! But on a peculiar aspect, this house needs new siding to go with this beautiful new deck!
Thank you for your nice comment.
The old siding was replaced after I finished the deck.
You explained the crowning wrong, ALWAYS crown face down, it will flatten over time but either way the rain will continue to drain off.
Thanks for weighing in on the crowning debate.
Try this experiment: Take a wide board (1x6 or 1x8) with wood grains curving to one side and lay it out in the weather. Then, in a week or two check which way the cupping is facing. I did this same experiment with three different boards and they all cupped against the curved grains. Strange.
Don't notch the rail post, most codes no longer allow it. And please, lower the blade on that table saw.
Thank you for your comment.
Great job, I have two questions if you don't mind. Did you screw the decking into each joist? I had a deck just build and they screwed the 5/4 decking every other joist and seems to be some bounce. I wondering if I should go back and do every joist? There is a shortage on decking screws in my area so my second question is I found #10 deck screws, will they be to big now that I see you were using #8
Thank you for the comment.
Question #1: yes, I screw the decking to each joist.
Question #2: yes, you should go back and do every joist.
Question #3: #10 decking screws will be fine. Actually, they hold much stronger than #8s.
Lots of good tips. I’m surprised you don’t need blocking between the floor joists ?
Thank you for your comment.
I usually don't block joists that are under ten feet in length unless the joists are weak. Example 2"x4" or maybe 2"x6".
why some people don't use the flushing. does the hardware knows this flushing thing?
nice tutorial video
Thank you for your comment.
Yes, the hardware store knows about flashing.
This was super useful. Thanks for posting these great videos sharing your knowledge and experience
Thank you for your kind comment.
what is cut and seal? is it a product?
Cut and Seal is a waterproofing sealer for pressure-treated wood.
You can get it most building supplies.
@@BasaPete I order mine from Amazon. It comes in different sizes.
Torx screws r better than phillips
I've never seen torque screws used on wood. I prefer Robertson screws. They're quick and easy to install.
GRK has the Torx style fasteners.
@@troyqueen9503 Thank You.
@Jim Doherty Thank you for your comment. The drill I'm using with the electrical cord is an impact driver. And you're correct, it makes life a lot easier than a regular drill.
Why buy the expensive GRK fasteners when Robertson are a cheaper and just as good screw . Plenty of Robertson screws available in Canada .
I hope your doing well sir thank you for your knowledge...
Thank you for your kind comment.
I think it’s supposed to be smiley face up on the cupping boards. Seen a lot of videos saying bark side up but I think it’s the other way around.
Thank you for your commrnt.
I love this channel almost as much as pic-a-nic baskets
Thank you, Yogi. Pic-a-nic basket or a 12 pack?
@@BasaPete 😂 The 12 pack is in the basket! Lol
AT 74 can't swing a hammer like that anymore. Doesn't stop me. Use a lot of air tools. Especially a palm nailer for hanger nails.
74 and you're still at it. Well done.
I hope I'm able to still build things at that age, power tools or not. 10 more years to go.
How did the deck boards meet/fasten at the corner I see you didn’t cut them at 45’s. I like the weave look better.
Thank you for your question.
The corner boards meet in a weave or step pattern. Looks nice.
Just saw another video that stated the opposite about cupping!!
Yes, the cupping debate continues. I tested my cupping theory on several wide boards and when they dried out they all cupped against the wood grain.
So many good tips, thank you sir
Thanks, I'm glad I could help.
Great job bud!!! Thank you
Thank you for your nice comment.
Good idea drilling the end boards.
Yea, I've experienced cracking when I don't predrill.
What kind of joist tape did you add to the top of your joist?
Thank you for your question.
I used strips of Ice and Water Shield. You can watch this video to see how it's done. ua-cam.com/video/q5K-dfcku5s/v-deo.html
did you paint something on top of the joists to repel water and prevent rot? something black?
Thank you for your question.
I used ice and water shield. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/q5K-dfcku5s/v-deo.html
@@BasaPete thanks!
Bibb
How peculiar...the questionable deck looks better than the house.
Thank you for noticing. The house and old deck were built 30 years ago, and yes, both needed maintenance. Sorry, no video of house repairs.
Also do u cut the ends where 2 boards meet and what do u seal them with ?
I always do to get a nice edge . Factory edges are not always strait . End cut preservative from any lumber or big box store ( Home Depot )
Can I use a framing nailer instead of screws?
Thank you for your question.
We used nails long before the deck screws came along. The problem with nails, they have a tendency to back out a little. But, that's only a problem if you have to shovel snow off your deck.
What is the black paper on the joists?
Ice and water shield cut into strips to protect the joists. I don't recommend using ice and water shield. It is very dangerous to cut into strips. I recommend using the proper self-adhesive joist guard.
Watch out for that cat. It's sneaky.
Thanks for your comment.
She's also a great mouser. Ha!Ha!
Perfect
Thanks.
Some this and some say that. I say do what is safe.
Thank you for your comment.
I think the cupping advice may need some tweaking when the board has the center of the tree very close to the board surface to reduce the chance of dangerous splinters.
Thank you for the comment.
You're correct about the splinters, but also when the center of the tree is in the board there's very little cupping.
I’m 69, still a semi active carpenter. You’re pretty good at what you do. Great series of vids. Thank you!
Thank You.
I
Thanks b I
no space betwee the boards cause it's hot and dry?You are a Canadian bro! Where's that?
Thanks for the comment.
South Shore of Nova Scotia.
And, yes, we have our dry-spells, usually in July, August, and September.
Lots of knowledge here.
Thank you.
I like the basket weave instead of the miter were your corner met, nice job!
Thank you for the nice comment.
Big thank you, resolve 2 problem I have😁
Glad this video was helpful.
Good job.
We need to get you a Milwaukee cordless impact gun.
Thank You.
I'd like to have one, but I'm waiting for a cordless to go on sale at an affordable price.
@@BasaPete They do, all the time.
What type of seal do you use on the cut ends? Good work btw!
Thank you.
The sealer is Cut-N-Seal.
Do you really like the looks of the White flashing showing?
I was going to paint the flashing the colour of the house (brown), but then changed my mind and stayed with white the colour of the trim.
Hi
Great video. I learned a few things,thanks .
Thank you for your nice comment.
What tool did you use to make the board Straight?
An old chalk line, I've had for years and years.
The deck cost more then the house looks nice ,now time to work on the old house !! I use a rock bar put the shit to her !
Thank You. FYI siding and trim are attached and freshly painted. I still need to replace the door and door frame.
U are amazing.. thanks for your time!!;
Thank You.
if my foundation of my deck is open to the elements(wet from rain) do i have to wait to install deck boards??
Thank you for your question.
If your foundation is made of concrete, no worries.
If it is made of wood and has good ventilation, no worries.
@@BasaPete I meant to say if the floor joists were soaking wet
@@Eastbaypisces If you have good ventilation it shouldn't be a problem.
A closed-in deck with no ventilation will prematurely rot your joists.
@@BasaPete do i need to make sure my boards run all the way across to other side or could i split one, so say its 9' but i only have 8' long board, can i do that??
@@Eastbaypisces Yes, as long as the split lands on the centre of a joist. Be sure to seal the ends of the boards after you make your cut.
Cool table saw
That table saw came off an old fishing trawler, and it still works great.
Great video it’s nice to see another old school guy getting it done the right way
Thank You.
great workman ship good to see how it should be done never get that work done todays bids
Thank you for the nice comment.
Impressed. Pro
Thank You.
Someone get this dude a cordless impact lol. Dragging around a 80s electric drill 😂
Thank You. You can mail that cordless impact driver anytime. Ha!Ha!
@@BasaPete , Priceless reply! I find this is the best way to deal with these idiots who attack youtube content... They did not pay a dollar for the content you uploaded and yet, they feel it is okay to harass the content makers... Perhaps, he will send you that drill after all... I don't think this person would, seems to cheap, asking others to do his bidding... Chump.
@@EngineerPEretired Thanks, I took this comment humorously as I believe Jay Boley intended. Always liked a good joke, but I'd like a new cordless impact driver evermore. Ha!Ha!
I've always said "it's paid for." How many uses have you gotten from your still functioning corded tools compared to the amount of battery's that would have been replaced
@@Krummin I've gone through dozens of cordless drills from all makes. None of them stand up to a good Craftsman corded drill.
Thanks!
You're Welcome.
Wonderful!
Thanks.
Check out the Kreg hidden deck fasteners.
Thanks for the tip.
they add a lot of work and cost but make a great finished look.
@@BasaPete You wouldn't like them as they are spaced and will shrink more.
A little secret to skip pre-drilling the holes for the deck screws, take your screw, run it in about half way on a drill with high speed, put in reverse, bring screw out then back into joist. Never splits the wood. Don't ask how because I don't know lol it has worked for me for 10years now. A old timer showed me that trick and haven't pre drilled since.
Thanks, I'll have to try that on my next project. Pre-drilling takes a lot of extra time.
Are you using an impact or a drill to set screws?
great video!!
Thank you.
That's some old school man.
Thank you. I take that as a compliment.
@@BasaPete you bet .
Great videos. Keep up the good work
Thank You.
Great job 👍
Thank You.
dont you want the crown up and cup down as creating a cup as he said would create warped boards that will hold water. I think he said that back wards
The debate continues... Some say up and some say down.
definitive answer on the drying warp in rift sawn lumber "nzffa.org.nz" smile up to get curl downward. Only concern is that the two last full length joists that are mounted to the house trim material should have been doubled up to prevent future curvature as a result of the cantilevered load caused by that short doubled diagonal header near the corner. Believe me, it WILL settle. I had to correct it in the deck on my house built by the prior owner. Lastly, I didn't see any z channel flashing against the house. This is unfortunate because he will get rot at the ledger board without it due to water running down siding and settling on last board...with "curl down", that last deck board will slope toward house causing water to puddle against the siding.
Thanks for the comment.
After several inspections, I'm happy to say there are no signs of settling or sagging.
Checkout 10:29 for deck flashing installation.
I was thinking the same thing, however we all do things differently and get the same results. Basa Pete's design may work perfectly, but I would have cut out the corner posts of the house so that I could run my ledgers to the outside corner and then tie them together. Then I would have doubled up the joists that were fastened into the corner since those ultimately carry the weight of the inside corner of the deck. That might be overkill on my part but I would never have to worry about it sagging or bouncing.
@@bradeley6409 Thank you for your comment and sound advice.
Where are u from? Nice video 👍🏻
Southeastern Canada. Thank You.
I’m a carpenter in Nova Scotia 🔨 👍🏻
@@lyleconway6795 I'm on the Southshore. Hope you're keeping busy.
I knew the accent sounded familiar! 👍🏻
I live outside Halifax in Fall River. We work all around. Keep up the nice videos bud
Doesn't pressure treated wood eat through aluminum. I use a vinal flashing that's made for that reason .
Thanks for your comment. I've never experienced that before with aluminum.
Green treated eats aluminum, the new brown stuff does not.
@@curtisst.pierre99 I'm going to talk with experts at the building supplies. If this is true there should be a warning label. Thanks.
@@BasaPete There is a warning on the trim coil box stating never to be used with treated lumber. There are times I had to and was told, paint the bottom side with a prime paint you must use stainless steel screws.
I have often wondered why nobody ever stains and seals the entire framing system and both sides of the deck boards? I did my framing yesterday with a sprayer. I will do deck boards as I lay each one. Only the lower side for now.
Thank you for your comment.
I used to spray untreated joists and deck boards with wood preservatives and sometimes I used stain. It worked good.
Hi, nice work! What sealer are you using?
Thank you for your comment.
I use Cut-N-Seal by Advanced Technology.
Huge beautiful deck..junky house...🙄
Thank you. The old deck and house were built 30 years ago and both needed repairs. Sorry, no video of house repairs. It looks good, though.
If its 5 quarter its an 1" & a 1/4
Thanks, 5/4 is how they mark it on the label.
5/4" is based on the rough sawn dimension of lumber. Lumber that has been surfaced down to 1" is still called 5/4" being that is was milled from the 5/4" rough sawn
@@dmert6698 Thank you. You're correct, the actual measurement of a 5/4" deck board is 1".
You build like rough old builders I knew 20 years ago.
And times have changed alot since then!
Old dogs and new tricks. Sometimes the new tricks aren't near as good as the old ones. Thanks for the comment.
I wonder about putting the decking with the grain going up instead of down. You are only the second person that I have seen say to do that. I guess the debate is whether or not the board will try to flatten itself out or curl more. I also thought you might put some extra bracing under the deck ends where they meet since you would have to screw so close to the ends of the boards to hit the 3/4" that each would have to sit on. Did you put caulk in the corners where the flashing met the end of the house? Great video.
Thank you for your comment.
Wood grains up or down? Take a wide board (1x6 or 1x8) with wood grains curving to one side and lay it out in the weather. Then, in a week or two check which way the cup is facing. I did this same experiment with three different boards and they all cupped against the grains. Strange.
Deck board ends? As long as each board meets in the middle of the joist you should have no problem. The only problem I've ever had is the ends of the deck boards rotting. A good sealer should help to prevent that.
Flashing? Yes, I caulked the end of the flashing. I should have included that in the video.
Great video. Thanks for the tips.
Thank You. Glad It was helpful.
The flashing goes under the deck board
That would be a mistake. Water would collect between the flashing and deck board. You want the water to run down the outside wall, hit the flashing and run between the deck boards to the ground. Less chance of rot.