Interesting. I had stick like a concrete on mine. That could be a leveling problem then. I am going to test this and lower my bot.exp. time (also Mono 4K)
Hi Dennys, Thank you so much for your videos! You're a wealth of information and I can't tell you how appreciative I am for them. I am learning so much from you. I would like to know if this test should be done after calibrating normal exposure times, or should it be done before calculating normal exposure time? Thanks for your time, and again, thank you for sharing your knowledge to the rest of us.
Hello, I tested it on my printer on the file 20x20x0.3 and here it is showing 21x21x0.6 and the left side 0.5. What would be the wrong parameter that I have to test?
I’m having issues with anycubic 6ks!!! Please help haha. I’m trying to print their rfre file and when the test print is done I only have 2-3 done and on the plate. The rest are nowhere to be seen.
How do you sand your build plate. I discovered a huge lake (concave) in the middle of my build plate. Sanding it flat has not been easy, I think I have a rounding error near the edge.
@@wangdennys Thanks for quick answer! I'm currently down at 12 seconds and it still sticks very hard, now trying 8 sec. Is this good or a sign of something else that might be wrong? EDIT: It failed at 8 sec. guess i l'll have to live with strong adhesion
did you ever fix this? i replaced my main board And now prints stick like concrete ive lowered my exsposure to 12 and still rock hard.. im trying 10 now and will see how it goes@@bilbobaggins138
Hello, i have tried your method and run into a Problem. I use a 0.15mm thic paper for leveling and my FEP is also 0.15 mm thic. My LCD is sligthly risen above the housing so i dont have to add a distance for the space betwwen fep and lcd. Before i never had a Problem but because i made a mistake i had to refurbish my buildplate and ordered a new one for the instance that my repair attempt failed. It worked very well and now i have 2 Buildplates that should work fine. But since i leveled with these technike i got liddle fins on one or two sides of the squares which are so thin, that they break appart when removed from the buildplate. But since they first appeard i cant get rid of them. Did someone here have seen something like that and can tell me what causes this Problem? My resin settings are dialed in pretty well so i think its not the curing time. Also regardless if i lower or elevate my 0 Offset by 0.1 or 0.2 mm the Problem gets worse if i elevate and if i lower sometimes not all Squares print. Printer Elegoo Mars Pro.
Hello Dennys, I got a question: My prints are failing with settings that yielded PERFECT results before. I use the mighty 8k. Some days ago, the prints started to stick to the fep and fail. is the fep broken? i used some rain repellent on it, even tried silicone spray. nothing helped. it is not too scratched or deformed, and it is still mostly clear. some areas of the build plate still print fine. and they stick to the plate very well. i re-calibrated and leveled the plate. nothing helped. do you have an idea what i can do? thank you for your content.
Room temperature, resin temperature, resin age, LED age.. could all cause problems there. If you have a ball joint build plate, there’s always the chance you twisted it or stripped the bolts so you can’t get a strong level grip anymore. Also, never use those Teflon sprays. It’ll contaminate your resin and you might actually make your build plate more slippery.
I ran the bottom exposure test and I can go down to 10s on my mono 4k without a fail, however when I tried to print your anti-aliasing test I couldn't get it to stick until 17s. When I printed the mcbeer articulated dragon it doesn't print properly until around 25s. Since I've seen you print both these models, did you use the lowest value this test gave you or do you change your bottom exposure depending on the object and use these results from the test as a baseline? btw I also level in the vat and my build plate is level according to your leveling test. Sanded it as well.
Hmm, I usually use 4-20 bottom exposure … should I try reduce to maybe 3-15? LOL … Are u alrd test 3-10 bottom exposure to print big & full plate model? Because of the size & weight of the model, I’m afraid it might be not enough just 10 …
Each printer and room temp might be different. What works in my place temp might not works at your place temp. LOL FYI for anycubic skin, on mini 4k Yes 10s does work for full plate print. LOL
Hello Dennys!! Is it necessary to sand/rough up the build plate right out of the box before using for the first time? I've been following your vids for a couple weeks now and have learned a lot from you. I'm brand new to the 3d printing world and appreciate everything you do. Keep up the great work.
What printer are you using? Depends on the build plate. If it sand blastes surface, no need to. If it just smooth stainless steel surface, then need sanding.
@@wangdennys Hi Dennys, I have a new Elegoo Mars 4 Max and nothing will stick to the buildplate. My buildplate has a hexagonal pattern on it, so I did not sand. I redid the levelling three times now and tested different bottom layer exposure settings. It is a bit cold in my house though. Around 18~20 degrees celsius. But nothing seems to work. Do you have any idea what might be wrong?
Hi Dennys, your channel helped me greatly so far in improving my printing experience with my Sonic mini 4K. But I cam across a new issue I might need some help with: I downloaded your model for testing the build plate and adhesion seems to be just fine, BUT the squares that I print are absolutely not square. The have rather uneven sides. Any suggestions on where to start? thanks so much!!
Thanks for this vid! I've run probably a dozen bottom exposure tests, get it dialled in perfectly, and then I go to do a print and I get adhesion issues. Not a levelling issue as I run levelling tests first, not a heat issue as I keep a close eye on that. The only thing I can think of is that the WhamBam plate is causing problems, even after the extensive sanding I've done? It's very strange, I'm running out of theories.
The bottom exposure test comes out fine as low as 25s, and yet I'm still getting adhesion issues at 40s. It's bizarre, and I've run down the other variables.
@@wangdennys difficult, given i relevel in a different way to get around a problem with some elegoo printers where it squishes the lowest levels together due to a z sensor problem. I set up a dummy print and level on the first layer of it. The only way I've found to prevent losing the bottom 0.8mm
The settings I use for the supports add a tapered platform, which I prefer since It allows the plastic scraper to wedge under without scratching the build plate.
I tried to get a print to stick with 40 seconds exposure, but that seems like way too much, in which increments should I reduce it to try and find a good exposure for me? Also how do amount of bottom layers and lift speed affect the adhesion?
Try lower it per 5s I usually use 3 bottom layers I am testing Lift speed from 30mm/min upto 300mm/min on the same bottom exposure, nothing change, all stick just fine.
@@wangdennys I got it sticking thanks to your advice! :D But another issue cropped up, I think it might be sticking too much in the regular layers? The popping sound when it seperates is really loud, and now that Im printing a fuller build plate with lots of small supports the crackling sound is really scary. Does the loudness of the seperation mean much? Can I just lower the exposure?
![PERFECT Exposure times (calibration) - dial in your 3D printer resin [EASY METHOD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jOjB3Fr-0no/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the helpful tips and tests!
10 second light off delay!
Even with 60 second bottom exposure my print sometimes dint stick to the build plate.. Anycubic Mono 4k with dlp craftsman resin
Interesting. I had stick like a concrete on mine. That could be a leveling problem then. I am going to test this and lower my bot.exp. time (also Mono 4K)
Ahh yes touching a used resin bed with no gloves totally safe
Hi Dennys,
Thank you so much for your videos! You're a wealth of information and I can't tell you how appreciative I am for them. I am learning so much from you. I would like to know if this test should be done after calibrating normal exposure times, or should it be done before calculating normal exposure time? Thanks for your time, and again, thank you for sharing your knowledge to the rest of us.
Before normal exposure
After you level build plate
Great information and you sound like Dr Zoidberg. Win win. ❤
LOL
Hello, I tested it on my printer on the file 20x20x0.3 and here it is showing 21x21x0.6 and the left side 0.5.
What would be the wrong parameter that I have to test?
I’m having issues with anycubic 6ks!!! Please help haha. I’m trying to print their rfre file and when the test print is done I only have 2-3 done and on the plate. The rest are nowhere to be seen.
What if some squares are missing?
that means it is not lever
or exposure too low
How do you sand your build plate. I discovered a huge lake (concave) in the middle of my build plate. Sanding it flat has not been easy, I think I have a rounding error near the edge.
On my mono x, yes
Painstakingly sanding the plate. LOL
Great communicator of wisdom, Thank you for share.
Great stuff...I love your videos mate, there's some really execellent knowledge and demonstrations of problems and solutions!
Thank you
Thank you
Very good information. Thank you.
If i have TOO much adhesion to the buildplate, do i need to lower bottom exposure?
Yes lower it
@@wangdennys Thanks for quick answer! I'm currently down at 12 seconds and it still sticks very hard, now trying 8 sec. Is this good or a sign of something else that might be wrong?
EDIT: It failed at 8 sec. guess i
l'll have to live with strong adhesion
did you ever fix this? i replaced my main board And now prints stick like concrete ive lowered my exsposure to 12 and still rock hard.. im trying 10 now and will see how it goes@@bilbobaggins138
Hello,
i have tried your method and run into a Problem. I use a 0.15mm thic paper for leveling and my FEP is also 0.15 mm thic. My LCD is sligthly risen above the housing so i dont have to add a distance for the space betwwen fep and lcd. Before i never had a Problem but because i made a mistake i had to refurbish my buildplate and ordered a new one for the instance that my repair attempt failed. It worked very well and now i have 2 Buildplates that should work fine.
But since i leveled with these technike i got liddle fins on one or two sides of the squares which are so thin, that they break appart when removed from the buildplate. But since they first appeard i cant get rid of them. Did someone here have seen something like that and can tell me what causes this Problem?
My resin settings are dialed in pretty well so i think its not the curing time. Also regardless if i lower or elevate my 0 Offset by 0.1 or 0.2 mm the Problem gets worse if i elevate and if i lower sometimes not all Squares print.
Printer Elegoo Mars Pro.
Check my community post.
I share about leveling with more then 1 paper.
@@wangdennys i have read it and done so but I didn't solve the problem sadly
@@o0Takeno0o can you contact me through my socisl media
I would like to see the fail print
And hopefully i can help you.
@@wangdennys Thank you :) I will upload some pictures on Instagram and will contact you there but it will take some time.
excellent. well presented too.
Hello Dennys, I got a question: My prints are failing with settings that yielded PERFECT results before. I use the mighty 8k. Some days ago, the prints started to stick to the fep and fail. is the fep broken? i used some rain repellent on it, even tried silicone spray. nothing helped. it is not too scratched or deformed, and it is still mostly clear. some areas of the build plate still print fine. and they stick to the plate very well. i re-calibrated and leveled the plate. nothing helped. do you have an idea what i can do? thank you for your content.
Room temperature, resin temperature, resin age, LED age.. could all cause problems there. If you have a ball joint build plate, there’s always the chance you twisted it or stripped the bolts so you can’t get a strong level grip anymore.
Also, never use those Teflon sprays. It’ll contaminate your resin and you might actually make your build plate more slippery.
Wah ngebantu banget bang, ada komunitas indo gak sih buat ditanya-tanya? aku baru nyobain 3D print gak berhasil-berhasil wkwkwk
No
I ran the bottom exposure test and I can go down to 10s on my mono 4k without a fail, however when I tried to print your anti-aliasing test I couldn't get it to stick until 17s. When I printed the mcbeer articulated dragon it doesn't print properly until around 25s. Since I've seen you print both these models, did you use the lowest value this test gave you or do you change your bottom exposure depending on the object and use these results from the test as a baseline?
btw I also level in the vat and my build plate is level according to your leveling test. Sanded it as well.
I always use the lowest exposure.
That i adjusted after some real print test. Usually around 10-15s
Strange cause if I use the lowest value some of my prints don't stick
@@wangdennys
@brendon6930 do you use raft?
Cause some raft shape is basically suction cup.
@@wangdennys No I usually don't. These prints that didn't stick were your ultimate anti-aliasing test and the articulated dragon.
It seems your leveling might be too low. And the plate is going pass 0 height.
Maybe try relevel with thicker paper? Like cereal cardboard box
Hmm, I usually use 4-20 bottom exposure … should I try reduce to maybe 3-15? LOL …
Are u alrd test 3-10 bottom exposure to print big & full plate model? Because of the size & weight of the model, I’m afraid it might be not enough just 10 …
Each printer and room temp might be different.
What works in my place temp might not works at your place temp. LOL
FYI for anycubic skin, on mini 4k
Yes 10s does work for full plate print. LOL
What is light off delay? Mines set at 2 😅
Hello Dennys!! Is it necessary to sand/rough up the build plate right out of the box before using for the first time? I've been following your vids for a couple weeks now and have learned a lot from you. I'm brand new to the 3d printing world and appreciate everything you do. Keep up the great work.
What printer are you using?
Depends on the build plate.
If it sand blastes surface, no need to.
If it just smooth stainless steel surface, then need sanding.
@@wangdennys I'm currently using the anycubic mono x and the mono 4k. Makes sense lol. Thank you for the intel.
@@wangdennys Hi Dennys, I have a new Elegoo Mars 4 Max and nothing will stick to the buildplate. My buildplate has a hexagonal pattern on it, so I did not sand. I redid the levelling three times now and tested different bottom layer exposure settings. It is a bit cold in my house though. Around 18~20 degrees celsius. But nothing seems to work. Do you have any idea what might be wrong?
@@oldskoolnp5512 have you watch my video tips for leveling?
Using papers on each corner to check the level.
The leveling squares are genius! Thanks man
Thank you so much!
Hi Dennys,
your channel helped me greatly so far in improving my printing experience with my Sonic mini 4K.
But I cam across a new issue I might need some help with: I downloaded your model for testing the build plate and adhesion seems to be just fine, BUT the squares that I print are absolutely not square. The have rather uneven sides. Any suggestions on where to start?
thanks so much!!
Contact my social media
Send the pic to me
Thanks for this vid! I've run probably a dozen bottom exposure tests, get it dialled in perfectly, and then I go to do a print and I get adhesion issues. Not a levelling issue as I run levelling tests first, not a heat issue as I keep a close eye on that. The only thing I can think of is that the WhamBam plate is causing problems, even after the extensive sanding I've done? It's very strange, I'm running out of theories.
The bottom exposure test comes out fine as low as 25s, and yet I'm still getting adhesion issues at 40s. It's bizarre, and I've run down the other variables.
Relevel with 3 papers
@@wangdennys difficult, given i relevel in a different way to get around a problem with some elegoo printers where it squishes the lowest levels together due to a z sensor problem. I set up a dummy print and level on the first layer of it. The only way I've found to prevent losing the bottom 0.8mm
@@hardyroachvids4021 that is why relevel with 3 papers.
The settings I use for the supports add a tapered platform, which I prefer since It allows the plastic scraper to wedge under without scratching the build plate.
the links on thingiverse are showing a 404 error. can you correct? thank you
Noted, i will check it later tonight
i have chekd it, the link open just fine
I tried to get a print to stick with 40 seconds exposure, but that seems like way too much, in which increments should I reduce it to try and find a good exposure for me?
Also how do amount of bottom layers and lift speed affect the adhesion?
Try lower it per 5s
I usually use 3 bottom layers
I am testing Lift speed from 30mm/min upto 300mm/min on the same bottom exposure, nothing change, all stick just fine.
@@wangdennys I got it sticking thanks to your advice! :D
But another issue cropped up, I think it might be sticking too much in the regular layers? The popping sound when it seperates is really loud, and now that Im printing a fuller build plate with lots of small supports the crackling sound is really scary.
Does the loudness of the seperation mean much? Can I just lower the exposure?
What printer are you using again? Sorry i forgot.
@@wangdennys Oh no problem, I have an Anycubic photon Mono 4K
Well i also experience pop sound on regular layer.
And printed just fine.
You could switch to nfep if you want. It has better layer peel off.