I hope my mistakes have been helpful for your 3d printing journey. Click here to watch me print a GW Battleforce Box: ua-cam.com/video/PCBCpDjjg8A/v-deo.html
I’m wanting to get back into printing, even though I haven’t had much run time other than 1 print that only printed 3 out of 4 wheels and then my fap broke because I used the spatula to get the print off I learned not to do that and then my lcd I thought went out so I replaced it and it did the same thing no picture so I put it in my storage but if it’s a software issue 🤦🏽♂️ with I hope it is something like that then I can start printing 1/24 car parts for my model kits
Thats good to hear someone else backup the theory of very slow or very fast lift speeds. 180-240 lift and 300 down for me. I have a half second delay before the UV comes on to give the resin a little time to settle back under the print. One tip I have is, after washing but before removing supports, soak them in very hot water, not boiling, but as hot as you can get away with and still put your hands in. Leave them for a min or so and it really helps loosen the supports which reduces the scaring when you take them off, half the time they will just fall off.
Regarding failed prints. Depending on how complete they are and the Games you are playing, they can be casualties . Say an arm gets blown off or leg gets cut clean through with a sword. You finally get to use that blood red paint you have been saving. You get the idea. Melt a few as well everyone uses that dam fireball anyways!!!
That's actually quite clever. I've kept most of my fails that are at least 50% intact, so I'll look at making some objective markers and the like. Thanks Tom!
yeah, im soon getting into printing and im not even scared of failiures cause i think they can get very decent terrain pieces or basing material. also if you are wargaming you are able to exchange your misprint with the decent print to show that it is down. imagine a full tanke beeing exchanged with a broken tank and then just get a LED candle with some cotton to make a smoke&burn effect.
One additional pro tip to add to your list: run the vat cleaning routine on your printer after failures to capture all the failed sections still stuck to the FEP and any solids that broke away so you don’t bork your screen/ FEP when you start the next print. Overall really glad to see someone advocating the use of PPE, but it should be clarified that a simple N95 or activated charcoal filter for your respirator isn’t enough. The chemicals resin off-gasses during use and curing are no joke. Spend the extra couple bucks and get the NIOSH filters. Yes, the ones that are pink and say they are for organic solvents and aerosolized acids. They’re a few bucks more, but your lungs will thank you. Some additional hard-learned lessons and general advice from a fellow resin tinker and enthusiast. 1. Don’t cheap out on gloves. I use 8mil mechanics nitrile gloves that are textured on the fingers. Helps keep a good grip on slippery prints while removing supports and the odds of tearing are much less than the cheaper ones. 2. Unless you’re using water washable resin, use %90 or higher IPA in your wash station. I borked my first one using lower concentration when I didn’t know any better and parts rusted out, that were then embedded in my prints later. 3. If your wash and cure station can support it, just use the basket to support your entire build plate with the print left on it for washing. Don’t need to drown it, but as long as the entire print is in the cleaning solution, you’re good. Holy crap does this cut down on the mess. After you scrape the print off the build plate, a quick wipe down with a paper towel and 10 minutes for the remaining alcohol to evaporate off and you’re good to go for the next print. 4. Get yourself a nice stainless steel basin for breaking your supports down in to help contain the mess. I got one off amazon that’s 9”Wx11”Lx6”D for about 25 bucks. 5. Get a rubber mat with a raised lip to put your printer on and do you’re cleaning work in case of ‘resin containment failure’. If your FEP fails mid-print, instead of cleaning resin out of your everything, hopefully it will just be the immediate work surface. 6. Get a UV flashlight for spot curing resin on your used gloves, any paper towels or rags you use, or even models coming out of the cure station in case they need it. 7. Cure your waste before tossing it in the trash. Don’t be ‘that guy/gal’ and just toss un-cured hazmat in the general trash. Throw your supports into your curing station, use the UV flashlight I mention above to cure the resin in your paper towels and on your gloves. I’m sure there are many other tidbits of advice I could give, but not that I can think of right this second.
Tip: You don't have to put your resin back in the bottle every session. You can leave it in there for days, weeks. This way you won't be tempted to try cleaning your FEP and thus wearing it/scratching it. Also, paper towels are bad for cleaning the FEP, if you must clean it then get the resin out (large 250ml syringe) then soak up for rinse out the remaining with IPA and then gently clean the film with a clean microfiber cloth, NOT paper towels. Paper towels can leave it cloudy, just pushes the resin all over and you're left with a cloudy FEP. The microfibers are key to sucking up that cloudiness and leaving it clear!
Makes me wonder whether cotton cloth could do the same. I'm quite a lot into woodworking too and we use cotton cloth with our oils, as paper towels can leave unwanted scratches on a fine sanded surface. Cotton cloth for woodworking won't do that, have excellent suction ability and can be bought in rolls that are much cheaper than microfiber cloths
@@JohnVanderbeck Idk about this, but I imagine they could be washed for resin in IPA and then just left to dry, once the majority of the IPA have been squeezed out of the cloth
I've been resin printing for a couple of years. You have offered good, relavent advice to beginners. I however, am still guilty of having too many STL suppliers. You CAN collect so many STL files that you can become paralyzed on what to print next.
I agree. The library of shame has grown so much. I've noticed that I've become spoiled with pre-supported files and can't be bothered to do my own supports.
@@DiavloPL Yep! Told my group that was it. Now more wild spending until I'd cleared my pile of shame. Then went and got a 3d printer and spend hundreds on STLs for other games systems! I could have bought an entire army with what I've spent this month alone :')
I went to check my resin settings and my lift speed was PERFECTLY in the middle of the dead zone, which explains why my prints suck. Thanks for the awesome tips! :D
I'm about to take the step and purchase my printer. It's incredible how many people have such great advice across every line of model and through all experiences. Every video I watch and comment i read teaches me something I didn't know that I am better off knowing. So I thank the creators and the community. Much love guys❤
I been printing with the halot one for the last 3months and only had a hand full of fails and that’s only because of videos like this one!!! Plus the set up is super easy right out of the box!
My biggest tip for anyone is make sure you have enough holes in your prints so resin does not pool inside a print. A hole at the top and a hole at the bottom of the item is best for airflow and cleaning.
In particular, Run thru the model layers in the slicer and look for isolated chuck of resin shaped like a cup or bowl. These literally can from “suction cups” when the model is upside down and trying to pull up off the FEP, multiplying the suction force dramatically. So in a hollow model, there might be the cup shapes formed on the interior of the bottom wall, or even formed in the exterior of the upper surfaces. Drill a hole thru the lowest point in all of these to allow air and resin to flow readily so a suction cup isn’t formed. This goes for solid models too, any feature on the model that might form a suction cup against the FEP should have a hole drilled clear thru to the other side. This is especially important as models get larger as the suction forces multiply with area of the cup.
I often add a hole at the lowest point of the print (for example, the head) not only to allow flow through when cleaning but to avoid resin accumulation when cleaning due to vacuum lock with the interconnecting passage being too small to allow sufficient cold resin to flow and drain when cleaning hollow prints.
How do you then hide/fill in the hole in the print of the finished product? This makes a lot of sense, but I wouldn't want there to just be visible holes in my models
@@internalscreech If the miniature is large enough to warrant hollowing which is when you'd be hiding it then just print it in parts, usually the holes go in attachment points
My biggest advice for those in colder climates is to make sure your resin is warm enough! You can buy a fermentation belt to help but cold resin is more viscous and increases print failures and decreases overall quality
I second that. With viscous resin it’s super important, like Siraya tech blu. You can print a little heater enclosure and get the instructions from a Couple UA-cam vids. It’s nice because it has a thermostat so you can set the exact temp you want your resin to be. It costs like $20/$25 total for all parts plus printer enclosure.
When I started using a mini grow tent with a space heater in it my success rate increases exponentially. Definitely a worthwhile investment. Also makes getting rid of fumes easier
Thank you for your list! Made the Nr. 11 myself and would also add Nr. 15: leaving your IPA container open for many hours (even without direct sunlight it evaporates fast).
nice to see a fellow Halot one appreciator, I've had mine over a year, I must say I haven't bothered with dialling in the resins with the calibration tools etc. I just estimate given the resin parameters anbd its basically always been fine, for example my current product says 5-15 seconds and I just go at about 6.4 seconds and works fine. Also changing the location of your prints in the bed not only saves your FEP (cheap and easy to replace) but its also saving your LED screen (much harder to replace).
I've been thinking of getting 3d printer for a long time now. I saw some pretty good deals online, and that brought me to you channel. After pouring over loads of your videos, I pulled the trigger. I love 3d printing, and your videos have made it really easy to get into. Thank you, and keep up the great work.
@@Habes PSH you made everything so simple. It's all set up and printing. I had 2 fails so far, but I'm printing in a basement. Did some small adjustments, and boom. Solid as a rock. Thank you again.
4years FDM and no resin printer but I’ve followed the tech and some of your advice is still useful for makers like me. like splitting up large prints into smaller pieces in case of failure you can reprint the pieces instead of wasting product. Appreciate the candid advice
i've been taking a serious look at resin printing over the past month or so as i will be getting back into scale modeling for the first time in 25 years. i've watched these helpful videos from many different youtubers, and based on all the information i've gotten, i can reasonably conclude at this time, resin 3D printing is just not for me. when i can free up more space at home and more time in my schedule, and get more serious about what i need to do with models (body kits, wheels, tires) then i'll give it a shot. but for now i think it's best i just look online for custom parts. thanks a bunch for the helpful tips. you saved me my own brand of nightmare. i hope to update a few years from now with good news of me finally getting into this.👍
It's kind of funny that I see you even show off your failed prints. I love to as well, since it teaches us and reminds us of the steps done to make a successful print. It's going to be over soon a little, since printers itself are in development as well. So I can see printers coming that mix up and clean up a lot themselves already. So that whole proces of what our first steps are with these machines, is actually pretty awesome. Founding so to say. So good luck and following this channel.
As someone who is looking to get a resin printer bundle sometime this month, this is extremely helpful advice! Like Num.12, I would've never thought to wear gloves or a mask when using resin or curing, but now I know I'll have to keep some in supply
I have a mars 2 and have had only a few failures, all of which were the result of the model orientation. My biggest tip would be to orientate your model with the majority of the mass (like the body) closest to the build plate, with the lightest parts (like the limbs) printing last.
One other thing to mention is the recommended printing temperature by the Resin manufacturer per brand and or type of resin. Printing at a room temperature below the recommendation will result in higher resin viscosity resulting in failed prints due to the additional drag when the print lifts which can cause separation of part or all of the print as well as support contact points tearing away from the actual print object. Also, when you do a validation print like the cones of calibration, make a note of the room temperature as it only takes a few degrees Celsius lower than the minimum recommended temp to invalidate the calibration.
Also holes. If you’re doing a big print, you’ll naturally hollow it out. But without a hole the resin is being sucked up inside of the model each & every lift. (Think washing a cup & pulling an upside down cup above the water line with the water still inside) It creates a heap of unnecessary vacuum & will overload your supports mid print, leaving you with just a heap of ladders & the model in the vat. So tip. Using your slicer, Place a hole as soon as possible.
It's not something I've done yet unfortunately even though I should. I would assume a UV torch pointed up one of your model's holes. I've seen one guy have a UV LED and he pushes it all the way up inside the models and moves it around to cure the inside. Sorry I can't be much more help.
I'm going to buy my first resin printer soon and I am really scared to be totally devistated thinking I'm too stupid for it because I would do things wrong I don't understand, but your video helped a lot :) Now I know what I should look out for! Sure there still will be things that will go wrong because of settings and such, but I know now what other things could happen and why. Made me a bit braver! Thank you very much ♥
When I'm working on my cars, my rule is to never put a bolt in place unless I'm going to tighten it. Use the same rule for your build plate and you won't ever leave it loose.
suction force... make sure to add drain holes if your model allos it. ive just used ggreen stuff and/or resin to fill the hols and tada... but reduces suction cup issues
You need to point out that each resin change means finding the right settings again. It may sound like fun changing resins each print, but this is a huge paint. Cleansing the vat takes time, but failed prints inevitably damage the FEP. Tuning the printer for a resin often ends with failed prints. Another one is printer cleaning. The resin is pretty nasty and light inevitability makes cleanup difficult. Also point out humidity Amd temperatures effect printing so working to keep these constant is a key to success.
They now sell these magnetic baseplates for msla printers , using a 175x55mm on the mars ultra. Its smaller than original plate but you use two it like two sided tape applying the magnet and it has a thin plate for bending like ender printer down build plates. Which eliminated build plate scratches. Perfect prints. Easy cleaning. Around $20 CAD on the web. Only downside is you loose about 2mm in z axis build volume. Cheers hope this helps .
One of my biggest fails was when I first bought my Mars 2 Pro. I spent 2 days changing printer settings before eventually realizing I never removed the plastic from the FEP film. Second biggest fail would be the number of times I've forgoten to even put the build plate back on when cranking out back to back to back prints. #8 Was hilariously applicable to me. I very much fall into the camp of having "files of shame". There's just so many models, toys, and tools that I'd LOVE to bring to life!
I almost exclusively use water washable resin for the last 3 years, here is what i have for anyone who thinks they want it. The details are better than other resin's, it flows smoother and doesn't separate so i have left resin in my printer for months and just started a print up one day and came out fine, use a raft the parts are brittle till cured and if over cured, it doesn't have much of a smell and i can use it in a room im in with just a box fan keeping air moving. Happy printing
I want to jump into resin printing as a hobby. I'm a bit familiar with the traditional resin mold. My question is, is the resin being used in SLA printers the same as that of the traditional resin crafts? Can you also put alcohol inks to make random colors?
Nice video!!! I’m just getting into resin printing. Great suggestions. Honestly, the more I learn about resin 3d printing, the more I feel I don’t know. But, I’m trying as I’ve invested too much money to fail! In also have a Creality Halot Sky printer. I think my next print is the Congress of calibration AFTER I update firmware startings! Great tips!
Wonder why Anycubic doesn’t put a microswitch onto the platform for the wash and dry station to know when the wash station is installed. This would allow the circuit to not be placed in wash mode unless the tank is sitting on the platform which would prevent the high speed spinning mistake when trying to cure the model.
I had a lot of misprints like you. Models came loss from the supports and sticks to the FEP. My experience is that it's most of the time a problem with the supports. I use Lychee slicer and if you place supports at 0.00 mm into the object the issue increase. I always have my settings to 0.30 mm into the object. Lychee handles that setting different than ChiChubox dos. In Lychee the supports don't go in to the object for real. So an Island only sticks better on a support. My second collusion was slower lift speed and slower Retract speed. I set my lift speed to 1.8 mm/s and retract speed to 3 mm/s and lift the build platform 5 mm. I had more failures when this speed settings was higher (now I have non). The Lifthight can decrease/increase the print time in many minutes. 1 mm difference can save you 1 hour. Do not cure your botomlayers too long because the resin is too stuck on the FEP, and then you need a larger lifthight. Time settings...... just never change them again when you find the sweet spot. My opinion is that every Printer brand has his own setting. An Ellegoo printer can react different from an Anycubic and so on.
I have the exact same printer and was wondering what your exposure setting were for the elegoo water washable resin. I just switched to this resin and have only gotten failed prints so far.
Hello, can you go a little more in-depth when it comes to the dead zone? To me it sounds like you should not be printing within the 80-150mm lift speeds but I think youre implying the opposite of that? I'm new to this so I'm just trying to understand this better.
Sorry if it wasn't clear. Either print at 0.8mm/s (48mm/min) or slower, or print at 3mm/s (180mm/min) or faster so you're outside the dead zone of 50-180mm/min. I opt for printing at 3mm/s just because I don't like waiting so long, but I have to add some extra supports because of the extra strain it puts on the supports.
@@DataAllister yeah there can be a bit more risk to damaging the FEP at faster lifting speeds. For me I've chosen that faster lift speed and will just deal with the risk that my FEP might not last as long in favour of faster printing times. That could change further down the track, but for now that's what I'm trying.
Awesome video! I'm in the process of buying my first resin printer (have a FDM atm). This was just honest and quick tips. Much appreciated. You my friend get a sub!
One very important thing you forgot. Ambiant room temperatures. In warmer parts of the world less of a problem, if you live in colder regions your gonna want to get that room temp up to between 20 and 30C as the warmer it is, the more viscous your resin is, less print failure. Also depends what your printing but generally speaking you cant expect great results if your printing in a cold room.
Yeah that's definitely true. When I made this video I had only been printing for a few months and we were slowly heading into winter, so I hadn't experience what happens once it gets colder. Definitely solid advice. Thanks Keegan!
@@countrydude183 Yeah, particularly from and energy/cost point of view. I current have a small 40W heater that I use with my printer in a small cupboard when it gets cold. Haven't tried a fermentation belt though.
@@Habes oh no 100% me the halot one has been amazing. Especially after the firmware updates lately. Super inspiring to see what you have printed with it so far
My favourite so far (after a week) is forgetting to secure the VAT! Came back to the printer after a half-hour print to find the build plate lifted to the"finished" position, with the vat still attached to the plate! 🤪
I don’t know the exact “science” of it. For washing I use a wash and cure station and put them in for about 4-6 mins depending on how many prints are in there and the size. I think you can’t “over” wash the prints, but I’ve heard of prints being ruined when people have forgotten to take it out of the IPA for a few days. For curing I put it in the cure station for around 4 ish minutes. It’s on a spinning plate. I know some people cure it for shorter times, because if you over cure it, the resin may become brittle. However the aim is for the print to not be tacky/sticky on touch and that usually takes 4 minutes in my set up. Bigger models might take longer as they might have to be rotated to get all parts cure.
I printed almost all of my first bottle (Phrozen Aqua Resin Ivory 4K, which I understand is actually good resin, but I picked just for the color), on a Mars 3 Ultra (not Pro). Also I don't have washing and curing machines, I just use a plastic box of alcohol and cure them in the Sun (of which lately there's very little - mostly clouds and rains). And so far I have zero fails! I'm quite surprised too. I've watched many videos on resin 3d printing and saw how many things can go wrong. Also when I started I did no settings in the slicer (chitubox). I opened the settings windows saw that I have no idea what I'm looking at and only set the printer to be my model in the slicer. The only issues I had so far is getting out the printed parts out of the build plate. Especially those I print flat, which I do for the miniatures base plates - being low profile and flat bottom seems waste (of resin and most of all - Time!) to angle them and support them, so I just put as many as I can for single print, and in 20~30 mins they're done. But yes the flat base plates are the hardest to remove from the build plate (but also the strongest so I don't shy of using extra force). And the other issues are that I broke 3 pieces when removing the supports (after I've removed them from the build plate). Fortunately 2 of the 3 breaks were clean and was very easy to superglue (the 3rd one was also clean, but I didn't notice it when removing the supports and I guess I've thrown the front of a female figurine foot in the trash). So as a result I got cocky and I printed a bracket to hold the build plate at an angle after printing to better drain the resin left on the build plate before washing it. I got that pre-supported (and clean stl of course) and I was going to print the supported version as usual, but I noticed some supports looking weird and unnecessary (and too thick), I played few minutes trying to fix just the weird ones, but I gave up, started with the clean STL, set supports to light (and even made them a bit lighter, down to 0.7mm thickness), printed it expecting epic fail and that I would have to finally drain the resin in the tub thru a filter to remove the failed parts (and avoid breaking my screen afterwards) ... I even hollowed the bracket and put few small drain holes because it seemed to me it has good potential to save on resin, while still being acceptably strong ... But I got a problem - it printed perfectly fine! Build plate removal and supports removal was much easier. Wasn't sure if the resin from inside the bracket was drained already, so after cleaning it and curing it a bit more in the sun I dared put my lips on one of the holes to blow in and see if any resin will get out, but nothing got out except for some air. So now I still have no idea what to do if something goes wrong :/ I'm going to buy a flex-plate to make prints removal much easier, and perhaps I'll get simple curing box (or put one myself - DIY style), and next I'll have to use the regular resins, so I wonder if there'll be any difference.
Don't risk getting uncured resin on you. Use a straw, air compressor, or vacuum to test for leftover liquid resin. The chemicals in resins are no joke. Be safe.
@@edeaglehouse2221 , I know. Thank you for the reminder! I'm being intentionally very careful (in addition to the mask, gloves & glasses), doing everything slower than I would normally do, and so far I don't have a single spill. I'm also waiting now for the wham bam flex-plate magnet to stick to my build plate (72 hours), and in the mean time I'm making a DIY UV-curing box from a cardboard box Alu-foil and uv-led-strips. Even got couple of those tiny turntables for jewelry (found them for about 5€ a piece. Actually I found them even cheaper, but I had to order 100 :) which of course I didn't) Btw I played with hollowing and made an extreme print - a ~30mm human fighter mini hollowed to a 0.5mm wall, and added plenty of holes in hard to see places (some smaller holes armpits and under-side of the cape to allow for air to enter/escape and push the resin thru the bigger holes on the feet, arms and also one where we all have a hole :)) I'm saying this because I wondered how the easiest to get liquid resin from inside the model, and thought about blowing thru, but then I read that this is excellent way to get droplets of liquid resin flying all around (if there are such inside the model in the first place). So I'm focusing on rinsing it really well in IPA to get it in & out many times and wash any leftover liquid resin there. Bubbles are a good indicator that air & IPA are moving thru with each dip. It works well when the cavities and at least 2 holes are big enough. The challenge is with tight cavities in a model, given that also in those places often it's difficult or impossible to add a large hole. But here Lychee slicer actually helps. It allows me to block areas of the model hollowing to avoid such tight spaces and focus only on a larger cavity that's much easier to manage and clean. What I though about for curing the resin inside tighter cavities is perhaps I could get few optical fibers, tie them together on one end, and place them directly again a UV led (probably some bracket could be useful), and then insert the free ends in the holes of a hollowed model to cure it better from the inside.
The hardest thing for me to for e myself to do is the ppe primarily the respirator but also not cross contaminating tools. Have a procedure and stick to it for cleaning the machine and your tools.
Yeah I struggle not to touch anything once I get resin on the gloves when handling prints. No matter what I do, resin just finds a way to get everywhere.
Thank you for this. I will be unboxing my Halot One and the UW01 Wash/Cure when I get home today and your video will be of great assistance on this journey. o7
It's kind of personal preference. Lot's of people will say you can make sure own washing station with a bucket, then a box with foil and a UV lamp. For me I'd rather spend the $$$ same a bit of time and hassle. I've got the anycubic wash and cure 2.0, and have found it worth while.
Honestly getting a good slicer program made it much better for me. I use to use like anycubics slicer but just got failure after failure. Then I switched to Lychee and bam, success
That’s a good point. I personally haven’t experience that as the first slicer I used was lychee but I’ve seen people have slicer issues which can be frustrating if you don’t know it’s the slicer causing the issue.
Hey; great video but can I ask a couple of questions? I've been struggling with my 3D prints and would love your help. Should I remove the supports before curing or after? I use a water washable resin atm as I don't have a washing and curing station. Also I seem to be losing a lot of definition on the smaller models, could this be due to over exposure while printing? Can you over cure an item? And would you recomend any 3D programs to help do things like divide a model? Thanks and have a great day!
I'll try my best to answer. I always remove supports before curing. I found that to be easier, and sometimes you can use warm water to help in that. It could be over exposure, maybe it could be worth lowering your exposure and doing the same model and compare them. I'm not too experienced with post curing process. I usually cure it until the print isn't tacky/sticky anymore. That is usually a couple of minutes in the wash n cure. I think you can over cure prints but I'm not sure what happens, I think they become a bit more brittle 🤷♂ I've have used prusaslicer to cut models but it's pretty bad. Only does a straight line. If you want a more detailed program maybe Blender? But it's a bit of a learning curve (I can't use it 🤣). I hope that helps, happy hobbying :)
Best advice I've seen is to clip supports after washing but before final curing. Then, the print is a little softer and removal doesn't leave as much scarring.
Funny you should say about tightening the build plate I always remember that, but have twice now forgotten to screw the vat down - first when I got the printer, second after cleaning it (had the printer about a week) So I've stuck a post-it on the machine to remind me
I am just starting with resin printing for miniatures for my tabletop games. I am using the water washable resing at the moment but I'm having trouble with the removal of my print off my print bed. after taking the printout and into the wash, when I tried to scarp my print off: 1. my scarper had a very difficult time just getting between the print and the bed AND 2. When I tried to scape/lift it off the bed, the print cracks/brakes. Any tips and or tricks?
Is an enclosure/air purifier required for resin printing? Would a desk fan and open window help with removing the VOP fumes that are released during the print?
I'm not sure about air purifiers. An enclosure is only good if you have a way to vent the fumes out. Otherwise when you open it, all the fumes are there. I can't confirm if a fan and open window would be enough for a health perspective. But for me I would have the printer in a dedicated space that I don't go in often, with a lot of airflow. I hope that helps.
Can u help me? They are only about 22mm high but one leg on 5 seperate figures didnt print then i printed two one total failure second is missing a leg again
There could be a lot of reasons. I suggest joining a 3d printing Facebook group or discord and post your settings and picture of the slicer. I hope that helps
Obscene lift speeds are such a big issue when troubleshooting failed prints. I see so many people wondering why their prints failed and, when you ask them to share their slicer settings, you see lift speeds as high as 360mm/m! Everyone is in such a rush these days, and they're baffled that their warp-speed settings didn't work, blaming their printer or resin when the real problem is that they're trying to run before learning how to walk (or even crawl). I think all of these 3D printing channels are doing a big disservice to the community by promoting Vroom settings without adding a disclaimer that people new to 3D printing need to get their printers calibrated & printing successfully at slower settings, first.
Thank you for your comment and insight. Hopefully I didn't come across saying "vroom vroom baby" and not highlighting the potential risk for more fails. I'm going to pin your comment so hopefully more people can read it and be aware of it.
@@Habes To be honest, in trying to help some people out, I've looked up manufacturers' recommended settings in their manuals, and it turns out the reason you see these 360mm/m speeds is because that's what's in the manuals (looking at you, Anycubic). That's wild! Perhaps the newer printers are coming out with improved FEPs that really will work reliably at those speeds, but I will still always believe that you need to understand the fundamentals of what's affecting your prints before charging in on just blind faith.
@@Namamiri Did it work for you? If so, that's great! Those settings are within the standard "fast" speeds I've seen. The new settings I'm seeing for ~360 mm/min (6 mm/sec) are very high, and I'm afraid it might lead to frustration for people new to 3D printing when they have print failures but have simply followed the settings provided to them by the printer manufacturer. I've yet to try the newer "nFEP" films, though, but perhaps those make super-high lift speeds a practical reality.
those resin fumes are no joke, i just got a resin printer and walked into my printing room (separate from the rest of my house) one time without my mask for about 3 minutes and I got a whole ass migraine that shits so bad for you.
Hi! As soon as my resin printer arrives I’ll be diving into the world of resin printing, though safety is a concern. Do you think having the printer in a desk on my bedroom safe? I planned to open my windows and go somewhere else while printing to avoid fumes. But I’m no expert :P so what can you suggest me?
I've seen online that people do it. That doesn't mean it's safe. I personally wouldn't have it in the same room, particularly a place where you sleep. If you can find another place in your home that would be better. One friend has his in the laundry with an air purifier.
You know, I laughed at you when you talked about securing the build plate. Got my 3d printer, must have done it 2-3 times now. Thanks for all the tips!!
thanks Habes and commenters. i only started resin printing minis a couple days ago and even though i have industry experience using resin printers; it seems wildly different
Great video, great tips. Recognized your not fastening the build plate, had a similar moment of shame: forgot to fasten my vat, also a recipe for disaster.
Thanks. I'm glad the video was helpful. I always have to triple check the build plate, sometimes even as it's lowering into the vat as I start a print.
Recently started, and it's going great so far! Just struggling to figure out which resin to buy... and which ones in Australia won't break the bank! Any tips/hints?
Hey Peter, I’ve been using Elegoo Abs Like for minis. Usually buying off eBay when there’s a deal. Best to buy in bulk when there’s deals if you can manage. However I haven’t seen any recently.
@@Habes Thanks for the quick reply! That's the stuff I got with the printer... but it's $60/1,000 on Amazon, so I'm on the hunt for something a bit more affordable...
Hello, I'm a beginner with a HALOT-ONE and I'd love some advice if you're willing. I've just got a new bottole of Phrozen 8k gray resin and my prints are not sticking to the build plate at all. When I drain the tray, I see the first few base layers of the print stuck to the FEP. Do you have an idea of what might be causing this? My most recent bottom exposure layer was 5, base layer exposure time 35s, exposure time 2.5s. I have learned recently exactly what's happening in this printing process (thanks to you and other YTers!) and now I'm wondering if my FEP needs to be replaced.
I’d relevel the build plate. Most times when things aren’t sticking to the build plate that’s the reason. Have a look at the FEP. If it’s super cloudy and scratched replace it, but otherwise it should be ok.
Good afternoon. Can you tell me why when you click on the model to print , on the printer,Creality ld 002r, the error is displayed: The cutout does not correspond to the projected -1440 resolution?
Hi there from Australia, just wondering if a Anycubic Photon M3 Max would be any good ? Looking at starting out thinking resin might be better due to detail as I want to print Figurines , cars , and buildings and maybe movie character helmets. Just so so scared to lay out so much money and never done this before and wondering what to print to make money on
I have briefly looked at that printer as I'm looking for an upgrade. It looks like a good model. Just remember it's going to take a while to learn, and things won't always work out so easily. If making money is what you want to do, I'd suggest starting it as a hobby, see if you like it and then start small. You could buy a printer and start and find out you hate it. Maker's muse as a video on "printing on demand" and making money 3d printing so that could be worth checking out.
@@Habes yeah sweet. Definitely more going to be a hobby at first as I love figurines, model cars , model planes , movie props, famous buildings around the world , certain movie characters and creatures etc. I know resin is more detailed and FDM is more durable and easier and cheaper. So I'm stuck between Anycubic Photon M3 Max for $1600AUD or Anycubic Kobra Max for $800AUD or should I get both lol. Also seen a 3D printer scanner at Jaycar Australia for $799 but not really a big scanning area. I can just see it all adding up especially with materials and paints and tools resin and fdm and the Alchohol for wash n cure. I just know I get into things and lose interest quickly and it gets expensive with that. Then again I don't want to spend 2 weeks making something and end up selling it for $20 Been trying to search up so many ideas and things to print and another thing is I guess sure it would be cool to print then paint something but then I'd leave it on a shelf and get over it lol.
I have a question, everyone recommends a respirator but noone says what kind to get. What kind would you roccomend? Are there certain specs to look for?
Hey, I'm really sorry I don't know the specifics of what is REQUIRED. This is the one I use, and it's to Australian and New Zealand standards so it could be different in your country. "The Trojan A1+P2 Replacement Respirator Cartridges + Pads provide A1 Vapour Protection and P2 Particle Protection as per Australian Standard AS/NZS 1716:2012."
i bought a anycubic i3 mega x a few years back and its never printed correctly lol. I think its PCB overheats or something im not really sure. I've switched the sd card and replugged all the cables and done like almost everything possible. But after like 2-8 hours of printing it just freezes. So im pretty confident its not my user error at this point but for a long long time i was pulling my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong because it was my first 3d printer and i assumed it was user error the whole time. Its nice to see that resin printers can have failures too cuz I was considering abandoning fdm for ease of use and picking up resin.
@@Habes Hi habes, a quick update. I finally got the damn thing working I think. its been printing 24h with no stops. The anycubic i3 mega x apparently only comes with a 1 inch fan on the pcb and no exhaust fans. I added an exhaust and an intake and it seems to have fixed it. If you hear anyone else complaining about a similar printer or issue then you know whats going on.
The only STLs I’ve purchased are a guy who had a one time purchase on his etsy where he continuously updates a mega folder that contains all the STLs he makes, and it was like 70% off
5 failed prints so far. Did a lot of research too prior to purchase. Was getting pissed, lol, did research into fixes and making some progress. Alas I come here and your cones of calibration seems like what I might need. We have same resin printer. Thanks, almost gave up hope lol.
Oh man, this is really helpful, thanks so much. A great idea for a video would be more examples of failed prints, specifically what was wrong, and what the solution was/were. eg: I'm getting this weird edge-lifting of flat-bottomed objects, making them look more like cartoon boat hulls. I think it might be a loose or sticky FEP, or plate crowding, or wrong initial exposure time duration, or not big enough skirt, or gypsy curse or something else, but there are frankly too many variables and not enough time available on the local library's "village bicycle" resin printer. So itemizing specific problems as a compilationin video would be gold to me. Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply. I did record a video of “common issues and how to fix” but found it wasn’t up to scratch for a video. After hearing this I think it’s worth me revisiting that idea. Thanks!
i managed to break my lcd screen after my second print because i had a small spill between the screen and tape thats around the screen to protect the gaps. Aparently the tape was not propelly applied to the surface and it leaked right in the circuits of the screen and ruined it... aparently the third party seller didnt want to warranty replace it either because it was "my fault" wich is partly true but still kind of pissed off about that. Thankfully though creality is sending me a new screen from their factory ♥
Also don't ever forget to secure the resin vat down before printing. I may have done that tonight and ended up with a suspended resin vat that was attached to my build plate 😂😂
Some interesting help here. I've been remarkably UN-successful! Do you have a "special" room set up for printing? I use my garage in the summer when temperatures are around 70+ degrees F.
Any advice on making it as close to plug and play as possible? I want to 3D print to get cool minis not as a hobby in itself. Do you have a video on that?
Newer machines. I bought an Elegoo Saturn 2 and I could easily print stuff with the default resin profile for their ABS like resin. There will still be some tinkering around as fails will happen a lot of the default settings with more recent printers will get you like 95% of the way there. All the best with it!
I'm really sorry, that was footage from Uncle Jessy's video on Resinlapse. I went to the video, but he doesn't mentioned what resin it is. Some sort of transparent one though. Sorry I can't be more help.
If this is in between layers, I don't think it would be necessary. If it's at the end of the print to shake of excess resin, I think it would be ok as long as it's not too strong. Some printers allow for rotating the build plate, and the excess can drip back into the vat.
I don't know what i'm doing wrong. I have a halot one printer and I'm using de elegoo standar resin. When I try to print the cones of calibration, the starting figure (just a tiny layer) stick in the fep. I have the default settings. Do you know what can i do?
@@Habes I already have: Initial Exposure: 45s Exposure time: 2.5s Motor speed: 1mm/s Turn of delay: 4s Risin height: 6mm Bottom Exposure: 3 slayers I already can print the matrix and I think that was an ok print but it can be better cuz the first and the last lines doesn't printed. Do you think that I have a good settings?
@@elpinchealdo9011 I could be worth adding more bottom exposure layers. I usually use 6-8 layers. The exposure time you'll have to work out yourself because that varies with different resins and printers. But for the Halot one somewhere between 2.5-3.5s is it.
my big advice is don't under support you prints for myself i rather have a few to many supports and succussed in my print then having a failed print. for myself il ike to put my own supports the using pre-supports i have found a few people that do great supports but then again more of them dont have good supports, but it all depends on what printer they have
As for "it isn't just plug and play" I got lucky and everything worked perfectly, once I did forget to tighten the build plate, but that's about the only problem I've had so far 40+ pieces in
I have the exact same printer as you and literally got it yesterday. I must say your video helped me out so much but as this is my first printer I'd love more tips and so on.
@@Habes it's hard to say exactly considering this is my first printer and I've barely ever sratched the surface but I would like to to kniw what washing and curing station you're using.
@@jakeplaysgames2820 I'm using Anycubic Wash and Cure 2.0 but the Halot One's build plate is a bit too big. It fits inside fine, but if you have a full build plate it won't fit.
Great video and tips, what type of mask and cartridges do you use? I've been into Bunnings and Blackwoods and they didn't really have an answer for me other than 3M Organic Vapour/Acid Gas Cartridge Filters? Is that right?
Hey Ross, The brand was Trojan and it was the A1+P2 rating cartridges. I'm not an expert with this and whether I need higher ratings (like A2), but it seems to block the fumes. First time I used my printer I got a headache from the fumes, but haven't since the mask. It's quite a niche hobby so It'd be hard to ask them for advice. I'm sorry it's not a definite answer but I hope it helps. If you find out please let me know :)
I haven’t had too much trouble, but sand paper or a nail file might do the trick. For bigger supports it could be worth using some clipper like you would for removing plastic models from sprues. I hope that helps Jonathan!
the exposure calibration is per resin type ? or do you need to do it every time you get a new resin bottle ? ( even if it's the same you have been using before) I haven't bought 3d printer yet but I'm almost on the edge of buying it, so I'm looking at all kinds of the videos I have seen this one a lot > exposure calibration this model looks great !
It's per resin type. So if you have ABS Like and then swap to Water Washable, you'd want to do an exposure calibration. It's even worth doing if you swap brands, as there could be a little variance. I hope that helps.
@@Habes ah perfect, yep that's what I though, that's for confirming. Really hope to embark on the 3d printing yourney, it's been something I have been thinking about for few years now
Exposure depends on the resin and the printers light source. The manufacturer and printing communities can likely suggest settings for your combination of choices. Somebody it there has probably already tried them. There are many folks happy to help.
It depends on what their application is. I'm using them as tabletop miniatures, so I'm using acrylic based paints especially for that. In general as long as you prime the print first with a primer most acrylics should be good, unless you have a very specific purpose for the print.
I hope my mistakes have been helpful for your 3d printing journey.
Click here to watch me print a GW Battleforce Box:
ua-cam.com/video/PCBCpDjjg8A/v-deo.html
I’m wanting to get back into printing, even though I haven’t had much run time other than 1 print that only printed 3 out of 4 wheels and then my fap broke because I used the spatula to get the print off I learned not to do that and then my lcd I thought went out so I replaced it and it did the same thing no picture so I put it in my storage but if it’s a software issue 🤦🏽♂️ with I hope it is something like that then I can start printing 1/24 car parts for my model kits
Firmware is not supporting to pendrive how to connect both together
Thats good to hear someone else backup the theory of very slow or very fast lift speeds. 180-240 lift and 300 down for me. I have a half second delay before the UV comes on to give the resin a little time to settle back under the print.
One tip I have is, after washing but before removing supports, soak them in very hot water, not boiling, but as hot as you can get away with and still put your hands in. Leave them for a min or so and it really helps loosen the supports which reduces the scaring when you take them off, half the time they will just fall off.
Thanks for sharing and all your comments on different videos. I really appreciate the insights you've shared on all of them.
So if you have a curing station do you cure after the hot water?
@@FreedomForce100Usually it's wash > hot water > remove supports and then cure
Regarding failed prints. Depending on how complete they are and the Games you are playing, they can be casualties . Say an arm gets blown off or leg gets cut clean through with a sword. You finally get to use that blood red paint you have been saving. You get the idea. Melt a few as well everyone uses that dam fireball anyways!!!
That's actually quite clever. I've kept most of my fails that are at least 50% intact, so I'll look at making some objective markers and the like. Thanks Tom!
@@Habes welcome and keep up the great work
That’s BRILLIANT 😅❤ How did I not think of this
yeah, im soon getting into printing and im not even scared of failiures cause i think they can get very decent terrain pieces or basing material.
also if you are wargaming you are able to exchange your misprint with the decent print to show that it is down.
imagine a full tanke beeing exchanged with a broken tank and then just get a LED candle with some cotton to make a smoke&burn effect.
@@deformiertergolfball4847 more than Awesome....that is great thinking!!
One additional pro tip to add to your list: run the vat cleaning routine on your printer after failures to capture all the failed sections still stuck to the FEP and any solids that broke away so you don’t bork your screen/ FEP when you start the next print.
Overall really glad to see someone advocating the use of PPE, but it should be clarified that a simple N95 or activated charcoal filter for your respirator isn’t enough. The chemicals resin off-gasses during use and curing are no joke. Spend the extra couple bucks and get the NIOSH filters. Yes, the ones that are pink and say they are for organic solvents and aerosolized acids. They’re a few bucks more, but your lungs will thank you.
Some additional hard-learned lessons and general advice from a fellow resin tinker and enthusiast.
1. Don’t cheap out on gloves. I use 8mil mechanics nitrile gloves that are textured on the fingers. Helps keep a good grip on slippery prints while removing supports and the odds of tearing are much less than the cheaper ones.
2. Unless you’re using water washable resin, use %90 or higher IPA in your wash station. I borked my first one using lower concentration when I didn’t know any better and parts rusted out, that were then embedded in my prints later.
3. If your wash and cure station can support it, just use the basket to support your entire build plate with the print left on it for washing. Don’t need to drown it, but as long as the entire print is in the cleaning solution, you’re good. Holy crap does this cut down on the mess. After you scrape the print off the build plate, a quick wipe down with a paper towel and 10 minutes for the remaining alcohol to evaporate off and you’re good to go for the next print.
4. Get yourself a nice stainless steel basin for breaking your supports down in to help contain the mess. I got one off amazon that’s 9”Wx11”Lx6”D for about 25 bucks.
5. Get a rubber mat with a raised lip to put your printer on and do you’re cleaning work in case of ‘resin containment failure’. If your FEP fails mid-print, instead of cleaning resin out of your everything, hopefully it will just be the immediate work surface.
6. Get a UV flashlight for spot curing resin on your used gloves, any paper towels or rags you use, or even models coming out of the cure station in case they need it.
7. Cure your waste before tossing it in the trash. Don’t be ‘that guy/gal’ and just toss un-cured hazmat in the general trash. Throw your supports into your curing station, use the UV flashlight I mention above to cure the resin in your paper towels and on your gloves.
I’m sure there are many other tidbits of advice I could give, but not that I can think of right this second.
Tip: You don't have to put your resin back in the bottle every session. You can leave it in there for days, weeks. This way you won't be tempted to try cleaning your FEP and thus wearing it/scratching it. Also, paper towels are bad for cleaning the FEP, if you must clean it then get the resin out (large 250ml syringe) then soak up for rinse out the remaining with IPA and then gently clean the film with a clean microfiber cloth, NOT paper towels. Paper towels can leave it cloudy, just pushes the resin all over and you're left with a cloudy FEP. The microfibers are key to sucking up that cloudiness and leaving it clear!
I need to invest in those microfiber cloths 👍
Makes me wonder whether cotton cloth could do the same. I'm quite a lot into woodworking too and we use cotton cloth with our oils, as paper towels can leave unwanted scratches on a fine sanded surface. Cotton cloth for woodworking won't do that, have excellent suction ability and can be bought in rolls that are much cheaper than microfiber cloths
Are you just tossing the cloths after?
@@JohnVanderbeck Idk about this, but I imagine they could be washed for resin in IPA and then just left to dry, once the majority of the IPA have been squeezed out of the cloth
Some resins have to be stirred if they sit for more than few hours.
I've been resin printing for a couple of years. You have offered good, relavent advice to beginners. I however, am still guilty of having too many STL suppliers. You CAN collect so many STL files that you can become paralyzed on what to print next.
Thanks for your comment! Yeah I'm starting to have that problem too, with too many STLs.
I agree. The library of shame has grown so much. I've noticed that I've become spoiled with pre-supported files and can't be bothered to do my own supports.
Waaaaaaaaay too many STL's and patreons supported. I'm spending more money than I have spent on GW models earlier.
@@DiavloPL Yep! Told my group that was it. Now more wild spending until I'd cleared my pile of shame. Then went and got a 3d printer and spend hundreds on STLs for other games systems! I could have bought an entire army with what I've spent this month alone :')
@@The_Gryph and my 5th 3d printer just arrived, its not a best hobby for compulsive/impulsive :D
I went to check my resin settings and my lift speed was PERFECTLY in the middle of the dead zone, which explains why my prints suck. Thanks for the awesome tips! :D
No worries, glad I could help. All the best!
One of the big lessons for me was that hollowing my prints decreased the wear and tear on my FEP.
That's a good point! I haven't printed too many hollow items yet, so thanks for the tip!
I'm about to take the step and purchase my printer. It's incredible how many people have such great advice across every line of model and through all experiences. Every video I watch and comment i read teaches me something I didn't know that I am better off knowing. So I thank the creators and the community. Much love guys❤
Glad we can help. All the best with printing!
I been printing with the halot one for the last 3months and only had a hand full of fails and that’s only because of videos like this one!!! Plus the set up is super easy right out of the box!
Thanks Dan! I'm glad you've found this helpful.
It's funny, I've had virtually all of these issues while learning resin printing! Great list and explanations!
Thanks for the encouragement John!
My biggest tip for anyone is make sure you have enough holes in your prints so resin does not pool inside a print. A hole at the top and a hole at the bottom of the item is best for airflow and cleaning.
That's a great tip, particularly for hollow prints.
In particular, Run thru the model layers in the slicer and look for isolated chuck of resin shaped like a cup or bowl. These literally can from “suction cups” when the model is upside down and trying to pull up off the FEP, multiplying the suction force dramatically. So in a hollow model, there might be the cup shapes formed on the interior of the bottom wall, or even formed in the exterior of the upper surfaces. Drill a hole thru the lowest point in all of these to allow air and resin to flow readily so a suction cup isn’t formed. This goes for solid models too, any feature on the model that might form a suction cup against the FEP should have a hole drilled clear thru to the other side. This is especially important as models get larger as the suction forces multiply with area of the cup.
I often add a hole at the lowest point of the print (for example, the head) not only to allow flow through when cleaning but to avoid resin accumulation when cleaning due to vacuum lock with the interconnecting passage being too small to allow sufficient cold resin to flow and drain when cleaning hollow prints.
How do you then hide/fill in the hole in the print of the finished product? This makes a lot of sense, but I wouldn't want there to just be visible holes in my models
@@internalscreech If the miniature is large enough to warrant hollowing which is when you'd be hiding it then just print it in parts, usually the holes go in attachment points
My biggest advice for those in colder climates is to make sure your resin is warm enough! You can buy a fermentation belt to help but cold resin is more viscous and increases print failures and decreases overall quality
Yeah, cold resin lead to a lot more failures for me.
I second that. With viscous resin it’s super important, like Siraya tech blu. You can print a little heater enclosure and get the instructions from a Couple UA-cam vids. It’s nice because it has a thermostat so you can set the exact temp you want your resin to be. It costs like $20/$25 total for all parts plus printer enclosure.
When I started using a mini grow tent with a space heater in it my success rate increases exponentially. Definitely a worthwhile investment. Also makes getting rid of fumes easier
Thank you for your list! Made the Nr. 11 myself and would also add Nr. 15: leaving your IPA container open for many hours (even without direct sunlight it evaporates fast).
I'll have to remember that, I didn't realise it can evaporate like that. Thanks for the tip!
I love Water-Washable resins and i swear by them. The cleanup process is less smelly, easier, and less likely to dry my skin or give me headaches
Nice. Thanks for sharing Sam!
nice to see a fellow Halot one appreciator, I've had mine over a year, I must say I haven't bothered with dialling in the resins with the calibration tools etc. I just estimate given the resin parameters anbd its basically always been fine, for example my current product says 5-15 seconds and I just go at about 6.4 seconds and works fine. Also changing the location of your prints in the bed not only saves your FEP (cheap and easy to replace) but its also saving your LED screen (much harder to replace).
I never thought about it saving the screen. Thanks mentioning that!
I've been thinking of getting 3d printer for a long time now. I saw some pretty good deals online, and that brought me to you channel. After pouring over loads of your videos, I pulled the trigger. I love 3d printing, and your videos have made it really easy to get into. Thank you, and keep up the great work.
No worries Garrett. I'm glad they have been helpful. When it arrives, feel free to message me on instagram if you get stuck setting it up.
@@Habes PSH you made everything so simple. It's all set up and printing. I had 2 fails so far, but I'm printing in a basement. Did some small adjustments, and boom. Solid as a rock. Thank you again.
@@garwmart glad it's working！
4years FDM and no resin printer but I’ve followed the tech and some of your advice is still useful for makers like me. like splitting up large prints into smaller pieces in case of failure you can reprint the pieces instead of wasting product.
Appreciate the candid advice
i've been taking a serious look at resin printing over the past month or so as i will be getting back into scale modeling for the first time in 25 years. i've watched these helpful videos from many different youtubers, and based on all the information i've gotten, i can reasonably conclude at this time, resin 3D printing is just not for me. when i can free up more space at home and more time in my schedule, and get more serious about what i need to do with models (body kits, wheels, tires) then i'll give it a shot. but for now i think it's best i just look online for custom parts.
thanks a bunch for the helpful tips. you saved me my own brand of nightmare. i hope to update a few years from now with good news of me finally getting into this.👍
No worries, glad I could help. Looking forward to hearing back from you in the future if things change :)
It's kind of funny that I see you even show off your failed prints. I love to as well, since it teaches us and reminds us of the steps done to make a successful print. It's going to be over soon a little, since printers itself are in development as well. So I can see printers coming that mix up and clean up a lot themselves already. So that whole proces of what our first steps are with these machines, is actually pretty awesome. Founding so to say. So good luck and following this channel.
As someone who is looking to get a resin printer bundle sometime this month, this is extremely helpful advice! Like Num.12, I would've never thought to wear gloves or a mask when using resin or curing, but now I know I'll have to keep some in supply
Yeah safety is pretty important, particularly if you’re going to do it for a while.
I have a mars 2 and have had only a few failures, all of which were the result of the model orientation. My biggest tip would be to orientate your model with the majority of the mass (like the body) closest to the build plate, with the lightest parts (like the limbs) printing last.
Yeah that’s a good one. Thanks for sharing 😁
Awesome tips! Thanks for the video. I just started resin printing this week. Really enjoying it so far
Nice video! I've had a print fail because I was printing too fast, and learned to dial the speed in correctly. The units matter a lot!
Thanks! Yeah getting the right speed makes a difference :)
One other thing to mention is the recommended printing temperature by the Resin manufacturer per brand and or type of resin. Printing at a room temperature below the recommendation will result in higher resin viscosity resulting in failed prints due to the additional drag when the print lifts which can cause separation of part or all of the print as well as support contact points tearing away from the actual print object. Also, when you do a validation print like the cones of calibration, make a note of the room temperature as it only takes a few degrees Celsius lower than the minimum recommended temp to invalidate the calibration.
Those are really good insights 😁
@@Habes Thanks, trial and error with a bit of thinking about problems help solve a lot of issues.
Also holes.
If you’re doing a big print, you’ll naturally hollow it out. But without a hole the resin is being sucked up inside of the model each & every lift.
(Think washing a cup & pulling an upside down cup above the water line with the water still inside)
It creates a heap of unnecessary vacuum & will overload your supports mid print, leaving you with just a heap of ladders & the model in the vat.
So tip.
Using your slicer, Place a hole as soon as possible.
Could you share your curing routine for the hollow models?
It's not something I've done yet unfortunately even though I should.
I would assume a UV torch pointed up one of your model's holes.
I've seen one guy have a UV LED and he pushes it all the way up inside the models and moves it around to cure the inside.
Sorry I can't be much more help.
@@Habes I've ordered an UV LED and will try this method as soon as it arrives.
@@GeorgMierau Hope it goes well :)
generalizing a bit here. much more to consider when calibrating exposure time like environment etc.
When I made this video, temperature wasn't an issue for me, so I never even thought about its affects on calibration.
I'm going to buy my first resin printer soon and I am really scared to be totally devistated thinking I'm too stupid for it because I would do things wrong I don't understand, but your video helped a lot :) Now I know what I should look out for! Sure there still will be things that will go wrong because of settings and such, but I know now what other things could happen and why.
Made me a bit braver! Thank you very much ♥
Good stuff. My Elegoo Mars 3 comes in tomorrow along with their wash and cure. Hope to avoid some mistakes after watching this
All the best printing. Glad I could help!
When I'm working on my cars, my rule is to never put a bolt in place unless I'm going to tighten it. Use the same rule for your build plate and you won't ever leave it loose.
suction force... make sure to add drain holes if your model allos it. ive just used ggreen stuff and/or resin to fill the hols and tada... but reduces suction cup issues
You need to point out that each resin change means finding the right settings again. It may sound like fun changing resins each print, but this is a huge paint. Cleansing the vat takes time, but failed prints inevitably damage the FEP. Tuning the printer for a resin often ends with failed prints. Another one is printer cleaning. The resin is pretty nasty and light inevitability makes cleanup difficult. Also point out humidity Amd temperatures effect printing so working to keep these constant is a key to success.
Very important point!
They now sell these magnetic baseplates for msla printers , using a 175x55mm on the mars ultra. Its smaller than original plate but you use two it like two sided tape applying the magnet and it has a thin plate for bending like ender printer down build plates. Which eliminated build plate scratches. Perfect prints. Easy cleaning. Around $20 CAD on the web. Only downside is you loose about 2mm in z axis build volume.
Cheers hope this helps .
One of my biggest fails was when I first bought my Mars 2 Pro. I spent 2 days changing printer settings before eventually realizing I never removed the plastic from the FEP film. Second biggest fail would be the number of times I've forgoten to even put the build plate back on when cranking out back to back to back prints.
#8 Was hilariously applicable to me. I very much fall into the camp of having "files of shame". There's just so many models, toys, and tools that I'd LOVE to bring to life!
I almost exclusively use water washable resin for the last 3 years, here is what i have for anyone who thinks they want it. The details are better than other resin's, it flows smoother and doesn't separate so i have left resin in my printer for months and just started a print up one day and came out fine, use a raft the parts are brittle till cured and if over cured, it doesn't have much of a smell and i can use it in a room im in with just a box fan keeping air moving.
Happy printing
I'm waiting for my anycubic 4k to arrive now so I think this os going to be one of the best channels to actually get help with it as a noob! Lol
Thanks. Happy to help where I can!
Thank you so much for producing this video. Helps a lot!
Thanks! Glad I could help.
Great tips! Definitely try different resins. The cheaper resins are cheap for a reason :)
I want to jump into resin printing as a hobby. I'm a bit familiar with the traditional resin mold. My question is, is the resin being used in SLA printers the same as that of the traditional resin crafts? Can you also put alcohol inks to make random colors?
@@rcane6842 no, sla printer resin is activated by uv light. You can dye it. Idk what kind of dye to use though.
Nice video!!! I’m just getting into resin printing. Great suggestions. Honestly, the more I learn about resin 3d printing, the more I feel I don’t know. But, I’m trying as I’ve invested too much money to fail! In also have a Creality Halot Sky printer. I think my next print is the Congress of calibration AFTER I update firmware startings! Great tips!
All the best! Looking forward to hearing how you go!
9:30 A mask won't do much for fumes, you just need better ventilation if this is an issue, the mask is just a safety blanket at that point.
i mean it will still filter a little bit doesnt it ?
like every bit of saftey is better then no saftey at all
Organic vapor cartridges should work.
Wonder why Anycubic doesn’t put a microswitch onto the platform for the wash and dry station to know when the wash station is installed. This would allow the circuit to not be placed in wash mode unless the tank is sitting on the platform which would prevent the high speed spinning mistake when trying to cure the model.
Yeah that’d be super handy.
I had a lot of misprints like you. Models came loss from the supports and sticks to the FEP. My experience is that it's most of the time a problem with the supports.
I use Lychee slicer and if you place supports at 0.00 mm into the object the issue increase. I always have my settings to 0.30 mm into the object.
Lychee handles that setting different than ChiChubox dos. In Lychee the supports don't go in to the object for real. So an Island only sticks better on a support.
My second collusion was slower lift speed and slower Retract speed. I set my lift speed to 1.8 mm/s and retract speed to 3 mm/s and lift the build platform 5 mm. I had more failures when this speed settings was higher (now I have non). The Lifthight can decrease/increase the print time in many minutes. 1 mm difference can save you 1 hour. Do not cure your botomlayers too long because the resin is too stuck on the FEP, and then you need a larger lifthight.
Time settings...... just never change them again when you find the sweet spot.
My opinion is that every Printer brand has his own setting. An Ellegoo printer can react different from an Anycubic and so on.
So true about different brand printers having their own settings. Always have to calibrate the printer individually.
Levelling the printer is also very important. Not just the built plate, but the printer too. This will give you less failures
Don't fear failure. Every failure can be a learning experience and a bridge to something better down the road.
That's great advice. We can learn from everything!
I have the exact same printer and was wondering what your exposure setting were for the elegoo water washable resin. I just switched to this resin and have only gotten failed prints so far.
I ended up using 3.5s iirc. There's a video of me review that resin with the Halot One.
ua-cam.com/video/V9LrzBL_BD0/v-deo.html
Hello, can you go a little more in-depth when it comes to the dead zone? To me it sounds like you should not be printing within the 80-150mm lift speeds but I think youre implying the opposite of that? I'm new to this so I'm just trying to understand this better.
Sorry if it wasn't clear. Either print at 0.8mm/s (48mm/min) or slower, or print at 3mm/s (180mm/min) or faster so you're outside the dead zone of 50-180mm/min. I opt for printing at 3mm/s just because I don't like waiting so long, but I have to add some extra supports because of the extra strain it puts on the supports.
@@Habes And in regards to the increase in lifting speed to 180mm/min. That also risk damages to FEP that was stated earlier, correct?
@@DataAllister yeah there can be a bit more risk to damaging the FEP at faster lifting speeds. For me I've chosen that faster lift speed and will just deal with the risk that my FEP might not last as long in favour of faster printing times.
That could change further down the track, but for now that's what I'm trying.
this is a great video for beginners, something I'd like to add, is do not wash resin down the sink. Its bad for the environment
Yeah that’s a great point that people easily overlook.
Awesome video! I'm in the process of buying my first resin printer (have a FDM atm). This was just honest and quick tips. Much appreciated. You my friend get a sub!
Thanks. I’m glad it was helpful!
some great tips, don't forget resin temperature, that was causing all sorts of problems until i realized it was a factor in fails.
Thanks it really helped me,since there is not so much info about the Halot One
No worries, glad you found it helpful!
Just use the user settings on Lychee to get a good ballpark. My cones printed perfect the first time with various resin types.
Yeah those user settings are pretty useful
I once forgot to bolt down my vat and came back an hour later to the build plate lifting the vat full of resin up and down
Oh no!
Hopefully it didn't make too much of a mess.
One very important thing you forgot. Ambiant room temperatures. In warmer parts of the world less of a problem, if you live in colder regions your gonna want to get that room temp up to between 20 and 30C as the warmer it is, the more viscous your resin is, less print failure. Also depends what your printing but generally speaking you cant expect great results if your printing in a cold room.
Yeah that's definitely true.
When I made this video I had only been printing for a few months and we were slowly heading into winter, so I hadn't experience what happens once it gets colder.
Definitely solid advice. Thanks Keegan!
Would something like a fermentation belt or another source of heat also do the job instead of raising the overall room temperature
@@countrydude183 Yeah, particularly from and energy/cost point of view.
I current have a small 40W heater that I use with my printer in a small cupboard when it gets cold.
Haven't tried a fermentation belt though.
@@Habes I was thinking that would be an alternative but just wanted to confirm, thank you very much.
*LESS viscous
I got an elegoo with elegoo resin and it basically worked right out of the box. I even forgot to tighten the build plate and it printed perfectly
Yeah I found that with my Saturn 2 as well. I think the newer printers are becoming more plug and play.
Funny you say you printed on the right side. Im currently struggling to get parts to stick on the left of my build plate. Also a Halot-One
Hopefully that's just a coincidence and not something wrong with the Halot One completely.
@@Habes oh no 100% me the halot one has been amazing. Especially after the firmware updates lately. Super inspiring to see what you have printed with it so far
My favourite so far (after a week) is forgetting to secure the VAT! Came back to the printer after a half-hour print to find the build plate lifted to the"finished" position, with the vat still attached to the plate! 🤪
I’m just getting into res printing. What’s a good time to wash/cure models? Like how long should I wash/cure a small model vs a bigger model?
I don’t know the exact “science” of it.
For washing I use a wash and cure station and put them in for about 4-6 mins depending on how many prints are in there and the size. I think you can’t “over” wash the prints, but I’ve heard of prints being ruined when people have forgotten to take it out of the IPA for a few days.
For curing I put it in the cure station for around 4 ish minutes. It’s on a spinning plate. I know some people cure it for shorter times, because if you over cure it, the resin may become brittle.
However the aim is for the print to not be tacky/sticky on touch and that usually takes 4 minutes in my set up.
Bigger models might take longer as they might have to be rotated to get all parts cure.
I printed almost all of my first bottle (Phrozen Aqua Resin Ivory 4K, which I understand is actually good resin, but I picked just for the color),
on a Mars 3 Ultra (not Pro).
Also I don't have washing and curing machines, I just use a plastic box of alcohol and cure them in the Sun (of which lately there's very little - mostly clouds and rains).
And so far I have zero fails!
I'm quite surprised too. I've watched many videos on resin 3d printing and saw how many things can go wrong.
Also when I started I did no settings in the slicer (chitubox). I opened the settings windows saw that I have no idea what I'm looking at and only set the printer to be my model in the slicer.
The only issues I had so far is getting out the printed parts out of the build plate. Especially those I print flat, which I do for the miniatures base plates - being low profile and flat bottom seems waste (of resin and most of all - Time!) to angle them and support them, so I just put as many as I can for single print, and in 20~30 mins they're done.
But yes the flat base plates are the hardest to remove from the build plate (but also the strongest so I don't shy of using extra force).
And the other issues are that I broke 3 pieces when removing the supports (after I've removed them from the build plate). Fortunately 2 of the 3 breaks were clean and was very easy to superglue (the 3rd one was also clean, but I didn't notice it when removing the supports and I guess I've thrown the front of a female figurine foot in the trash).
So as a result I got cocky and I printed a bracket to hold the build plate at an angle after printing to better drain the resin left on the build plate before washing it.
I got that pre-supported (and clean stl of course) and I was going to print the supported version as usual, but I noticed some supports looking weird and unnecessary (and too thick), I played few minutes trying to fix just the weird ones, but I gave up, started with the clean STL, set supports to light (and even made them a bit lighter, down to 0.7mm thickness), printed it expecting epic fail and that I would have to finally drain the resin in the tub thru a filter to remove the failed parts (and avoid breaking my screen afterwards) ... I even hollowed the bracket and put few small drain holes because it seemed to me it has good potential to save on resin, while still being acceptably strong ...
But I got a problem - it printed perfectly fine!
Build plate removal and supports removal was much easier. Wasn't sure if the resin from inside the bracket was drained already, so after cleaning it and curing it a bit more in the sun I dared put my lips on one of the holes to blow in and see if any resin will get out, but nothing got out except for some air.
So now I still have no idea what to do if something goes wrong :/
I'm going to buy a flex-plate to make prints removal much easier, and perhaps I'll get simple curing box (or put one myself - DIY style), and next I'll have to use the regular resins, so I wonder if there'll be any difference.
Thanks for sharing.
Sometimes it's easier to reprint that try save the print, depending on what print is.
All the best with the printing.
@@Habes , Thanks! You too!
Don't risk getting uncured resin on you. Use a straw, air compressor, or vacuum to test for leftover liquid resin. The chemicals in resins are no joke. Be safe.
@@edeaglehouse2221 , I know. Thank you for the reminder!
I'm being intentionally very careful (in addition to the mask, gloves & glasses), doing everything slower than I would normally do, and so far I don't have a single spill.
I'm also waiting now for the wham bam flex-plate magnet to stick to my build plate (72 hours),
and in the mean time I'm making a DIY UV-curing box from a cardboard box Alu-foil and uv-led-strips.
Even got couple of those tiny turntables for jewelry (found them for about 5€ a piece. Actually I found them even cheaper, but I had to order 100 :) which of course I didn't)
Btw I played with hollowing and made an extreme print - a ~30mm human fighter mini hollowed to a 0.5mm wall, and added plenty of holes in hard to see places (some smaller holes armpits and under-side of the cape to allow for air to enter/escape and push the resin thru the bigger holes on the feet, arms and also one where we all have a hole :))
I'm saying this because I wondered how the easiest to get liquid resin from inside the model, and thought about blowing thru, but then I read that this is excellent way to get droplets of liquid resin flying all around (if there are such inside the model in the first place).
So I'm focusing on rinsing it really well in IPA to get it in & out many times and wash any leftover liquid resin there. Bubbles are a good indicator that air & IPA are moving thru with each dip.
It works well when the cavities and at least 2 holes are big enough. The challenge is with tight cavities in a model, given that also in those places often it's difficult or impossible to add a large hole.
But here Lychee slicer actually helps. It allows me to block areas of the model hollowing to avoid such tight spaces and focus only on a larger cavity that's much easier to manage and clean.
What I though about for curing the resin inside tighter cavities is perhaps I could get few optical fibers, tie them together on one end, and place them directly again a UV led (probably some bracket could be useful), and then insert the free ends in the holes of a hollowed model to cure it better from the inside.
The hardest thing for me to for e myself to do is the ppe primarily the respirator but also not cross contaminating tools. Have a procedure and stick to it for cleaning the machine and your tools.
Yeah I struggle not to touch anything once I get resin on the gloves when handling prints. No matter what I do, resin just finds a way to get everywhere.
I'm designing a resin printer (have only used FDM) so this was insightful.
Glad you found this helpful!
Thank you for this. I will be unboxing my Halot One and the UW01 Wash/Cure when I get home today and your video will be of great assistance on this journey. o7
Glad I could help.
All the best printing.
Would you say buying a wash/cure machine is worth it?
It's kind of personal preference.
Lot's of people will say you can make sure own washing station with a bucket, then a box with foil and a UV lamp.
For me I'd rather spend the $$$ same a bit of time and hassle. I've got the anycubic wash and cure 2.0, and have found it worth while.
What are you using for paints? Also what are you using for curing?
Stand acrylic paints for miniatures. Vallejo, army painter, citadel.
I’m using anycubic wash and cure 2.0
@@Habes thanks for the help!
Honestly getting a good slicer program made it much better for me. I use to use like anycubics slicer but just got failure after failure. Then I switched to Lychee and bam, success
That’s a good point.
I personally haven’t experience that as the first slicer I used was lychee but I’ve seen people have slicer issues which can be frustrating if you don’t know it’s the slicer causing the issue.
Hey; great video but can I ask a couple of questions? I've been struggling with my 3D prints and would love your help. Should I remove the supports before curing or after? I use a water washable resin atm as I don't have a washing and curing station. Also I seem to be losing a lot of definition on the smaller models, could this be due to over exposure while printing? Can you over cure an item? And would you recomend any 3D programs to help do things like divide a model? Thanks and have a great day!
I'll try my best to answer.
I always remove supports before curing. I found that to be easier, and sometimes you can use warm water to help in that.
It could be over exposure, maybe it could be worth lowering your exposure and doing the same model and compare them.
I'm not too experienced with post curing process. I usually cure it until the print isn't tacky/sticky anymore. That is usually a couple of minutes in the wash n cure.
I think you can over cure prints but I'm not sure what happens, I think they become a bit more brittle 🤷♂
I've have used prusaslicer to cut models but it's pretty bad. Only does a straight line. If you want a more detailed program maybe Blender? But it's a bit of a learning curve (I can't use it 🤣).
I hope that helps, happy hobbying :)
@@Habes Thank you so much with the reply! Take care and happy printing!
Best advice I've seen is to clip supports after washing but before final curing. Then, the print is a little softer and removal doesn't leave as much scarring.
Funny you should say about tightening the build plate
I always remember that, but have twice now forgotten to screw the vat down - first when I got the printer, second after cleaning it (had the printer about a week)
So I've stuck a post-it on the machine to remind me
I am just starting with resin printing for miniatures for my tabletop games. I am using the water washable resing at the moment but I'm having trouble with the removal of my print off my print bed. after taking the printout and into the wash, when I tried to scarp my print off: 1. my scarper had a very difficult time just getting between the print and the bed AND 2. When I tried to scape/lift it off the bed, the print cracks/brakes. Any tips and or tricks?
Is an enclosure/air purifier required for resin printing? Would a desk fan and open window help with removing the VOP fumes that are released during the print?
I'm not sure about air purifiers.
An enclosure is only good if you have a way to vent the fumes out. Otherwise when you open it, all the fumes are there.
I can't confirm if a fan and open window would be enough for a health perspective. But for me I would have the printer in a dedicated space that I don't go in often, with a lot of airflow.
I hope that helps.
Can u help me? They are only about 22mm high but one leg on 5 seperate figures didnt print then i printed two one total failure second is missing a leg again
There could be a lot of reasons.
I suggest joining a 3d printing Facebook group or discord and post your settings and picture of the slicer.
I hope that helps
Obscene lift speeds are such a big issue when troubleshooting failed prints. I see so many people wondering why their prints failed and, when you ask them to share their slicer settings, you see lift speeds as high as 360mm/m! Everyone is in such a rush these days, and they're baffled that their warp-speed settings didn't work, blaming their printer or resin when the real problem is that they're trying to run before learning how to walk (or even crawl).
I think all of these 3D printing channels are doing a big disservice to the community by promoting Vroom settings without adding a disclaimer that people new to 3D printing need to get their printers calibrated & printing successfully at slower settings, first.
Thank you for your comment and insight.
Hopefully I didn't come across saying "vroom vroom baby" and not highlighting the potential risk for more fails. I'm going to pin your comment so hopefully more people can read it and be aware of it.
@@Habes To be honest, in trying to help some people out, I've looked up manufacturers' recommended settings in their manuals, and it turns out the reason you see these 360mm/m speeds is because that's what's in the manuals (looking at you, Anycubic). That's wild! Perhaps the newer printers are coming out with improved FEPs that really will work reliably at those speeds, but I will still always believe that you need to understand the fundamentals of what's affecting your prints before charging in on just blind faith.
@@terpdx 360mm/m is crazy in my mind. It could be something newer models are working towards to reduce print times as the refine the process.
I had my first prints with my first resin printer last week. I set my lift speed to 2-4 mm/sec i think
@@Namamiri Did it work for you? If so, that's great! Those settings are within the standard "fast" speeds I've seen. The new settings I'm seeing for ~360 mm/min (6 mm/sec) are very high, and I'm afraid it might lead to frustration for people new to 3D printing when they have print failures but have simply followed the settings provided to them by the printer manufacturer. I've yet to try the newer "nFEP" films, though, but perhaps those make super-high lift speeds a practical reality.
those resin fumes are no joke, i just got a resin printer and walked into my printing room (separate from the rest of my house) one time without my mask for about 3 minutes and I got a whole ass migraine that shits so bad for you.
Hi! As soon as my resin printer arrives I’ll be diving into the world of resin printing, though safety is a concern. Do you think having the printer in a desk on my bedroom safe? I planned to open my windows and go somewhere else while printing to avoid fumes. But I’m no expert :P so what can you suggest me?
I've seen online that people do it. That doesn't mean it's safe.
I personally wouldn't have it in the same room, particularly a place where you sleep.
If you can find another place in your home that would be better. One friend has his in the laundry with an air purifier.
You know, I laughed at you when you talked about securing the build plate. Got my 3d printer, must have done it 2-3 times now. Thanks for all the tips!!
Yeah I almost need to put a sign up reminding me 😅
Glad the video helped
Thanks dude! Your videos is helping a lot, just got my printer set up this week, let see how it goes =). CheerS!
Glad I could help. Happy Hobbying :)
thanks Habes and commenters. i only started resin printing minis a couple days ago and even though i have industry experience using resin printers; it seems wildly different
Thanks. All the best with it!
Great video, great tips.
Recognized your not fastening the build plate, had a similar moment of shame: forgot to fasten my vat, also a recipe for disaster.
Thanks. I'm glad the video was helpful.
I always have to triple check the build plate, sometimes even as it's lowering into the vat as I start a print.
Recently started, and it's going great so far!
Just struggling to figure out which resin to buy... and which ones in Australia won't break the bank! Any tips/hints?
Hey Peter, I’ve been using Elegoo Abs Like for minis. Usually buying off eBay when there’s a deal.
Best to buy in bulk when there’s deals if you can manage.
However I haven’t seen any recently.
@@Habes Thanks for the quick reply!
That's the stuff I got with the printer... but it's $60/1,000 on Amazon, so I'm on the hunt for something a bit more affordable...
@@pkmcleod yeah, I think if you can get $40/1kg that's a good deal. I got around that but had to buy 4.
Hello, I'm a beginner with a HALOT-ONE and I'd love some advice if you're willing. I've just got a new bottole of Phrozen 8k gray resin and my prints are not sticking to the build plate at all. When I drain the tray, I see the first few base layers of the print stuck to the FEP. Do you have an idea of what might be causing this? My most recent bottom exposure layer was 5, base layer exposure time 35s, exposure time 2.5s. I have learned recently exactly what's happening in this printing process (thanks to you and other YTers!) and now I'm wondering if my FEP needs to be replaced.
I’d relevel the build plate. Most times when things aren’t sticking to the build plate that’s the reason.
Have a look at the FEP. If it’s super cloudy and scratched replace it, but otherwise it should be ok.
Good afternoon. Can you tell me why when you click on the model to print , on the printer,Creality ld 002r, the error is displayed: The cutout does not correspond to the projected -1440 resolution?
If you have a filament (pla) printer you must check the printing at least every 1/2 hour. A catastrophe is just one blob away.
Yeah that's happen to me before XD
Hi there from Australia, just wondering if a Anycubic Photon M3 Max would be any good ? Looking at starting out thinking resin might be better due to detail as I want to print Figurines , cars , and buildings and maybe movie character helmets. Just so so scared to lay out so much money and never done this before and wondering what to print to make money on
I have briefly looked at that printer as I'm looking for an upgrade.
It looks like a good model.
Just remember it's going to take a while to learn, and things won't always work out so easily.
If making money is what you want to do, I'd suggest starting it as a hobby, see if you like it and then start small. You could buy a printer and start and find out you hate it.
Maker's muse as a video on "printing on demand" and making money 3d printing so that could be worth checking out.
@@Habes yeah sweet. Definitely more going to be a hobby at first as I love figurines, model cars , model planes , movie props, famous buildings around the world , certain movie characters and creatures etc. I know resin is more detailed and FDM is more durable and easier and cheaper. So I'm stuck between Anycubic Photon M3 Max for $1600AUD or Anycubic Kobra Max for $800AUD or should I get both lol. Also seen a 3D printer scanner at Jaycar Australia for $799 but not really a big scanning area.
I can just see it all adding up especially with materials and paints and tools resin and fdm and the Alchohol for wash n cure.
I just know I get into things and lose interest quickly and it gets expensive with that.
Then again I don't want to spend 2 weeks making something and end up selling it for $20
Been trying to search up so many ideas and things to print and another thing is I guess sure it would be cool to print then paint something but then I'd leave it on a shelf and get over it lol.
@@johnnobravo1978 I got no idea about FDM printers. I'd pick one type of printer (FDM or Resin) and learn that.
All the best with it!
I have a question, everyone recommends a respirator but noone says what kind to get. What kind would you roccomend? Are there certain specs to look for?
Hey, I'm really sorry I don't know the specifics of what is REQUIRED. This is the one I use, and it's to Australian and New Zealand standards so it could be different in your country.
"The Trojan A1+P2 Replacement Respirator Cartridges + Pads provide A1 Vapour Protection and P2 Particle Protection as per Australian Standard AS/NZS 1716:2012."
i bought a anycubic i3 mega x a few years back and its never printed correctly lol. I think its PCB overheats or something im not really sure. I've switched the sd card and replugged all the cables and done like almost everything possible. But after like 2-8 hours of printing it just freezes. So im pretty confident its not my user error at this point but for a long long time i was pulling my hair out trying to figure out what was wrong because it was my first 3d printer and i assumed it was user error the whole time.
Its nice to see that resin printers can have failures too cuz I was considering abandoning fdm for ease of use and picking up resin.
Yeah.
The newer machines are getting more plug and play though.
Saturn 2 I had hardly any issues.
@@Habes Hi habes, a quick update. I finally got the damn thing working I think. its been printing 24h with no stops. The anycubic i3 mega x apparently only comes with a 1 inch fan on the pcb and no exhaust fans. I added an exhaust and an intake and it seems to have fixed it. If you hear anyone else complaining about a similar printer or issue then you know whats going on.
The only STLs I’ve purchased are a guy who had a one time purchase on his etsy where he continuously updates a mega folder that contains all the STLs he makes, and it was like 70% off
That sounds like an awesome deal!
5 failed prints so far. Did a lot of research too prior to purchase. Was getting pissed, lol, did research into fixes and making some progress. Alas I come here and your cones of calibration seems like what I might need. We have same resin printer. Thanks, almost gave up hope lol.
Thanks, my first week was pretty rough XD
Good luck, can message me on insta or discord if you need help.
Both in channel bio.
Oh man, this is really helpful, thanks so much. A great idea for a video would be more examples of failed prints, specifically what was wrong, and what the solution was/were. eg: I'm getting this weird edge-lifting of flat-bottomed objects, making them look more like cartoon boat hulls. I think it might be a loose or sticky FEP, or plate crowding, or wrong initial exposure time duration, or not big enough skirt, or gypsy curse or something else, but there are frankly too many variables and not enough time available on the local library's "village bicycle" resin printer. So itemizing specific problems as a compilationin video would be gold to me. Thanks!
Sorry for the late reply. I did record a video of “common issues and how to fix” but found it wasn’t up to scratch for a video. After hearing this I think it’s worth me revisiting that idea.
Thanks!
i managed to break my lcd screen after my second print because i had a small spill between the screen and tape thats around the screen to protect the gaps. Aparently the tape was not propelly applied to the surface and it leaked right in the circuits of the screen and ruined it... aparently the third party seller didnt want to warranty replace it either because it was "my fault" wich is partly true but still kind of pissed off about that. Thankfully though creality is sending me a new screen from their factory ♥
Sorry to hear that. I'm glad they're sending out a new screen. Hopefully it's not too tricky to install. All the best :)
dont spill on your lcd then
Also don't ever forget to secure the resin vat down before printing. I may have done that tonight and ended up with a suspended resin vat that was attached to my build plate 😂😂
Haha, good point. Fortunately I haven't forgotten that yet!
Love it. Made sure not to mess up that one. Earned my sub
Legend!
Some interesting help here. I've been remarkably UN-successful! Do you have a "special" room set up for printing? I use my garage in the summer when temperatures are around 70+ degrees F.
I do print in my garage too. I think hotter is better than colder. In winter I heat up the resin before printing.
Any advice on making it as close to plug and play as possible? I want to 3D print to get cool minis not as a hobby in itself. Do you have a video on that?
Newer machines.
I bought an Elegoo Saturn 2 and I could easily print stuff with the default resin profile for their ABS like resin.
There will still be some tinkering around as fails will happen a lot of the default settings with more recent printers will get you like 95% of the way there.
All the best with it!
Thanks for a good video man! What resin were you using at 7min & 7:03min?
I'm really sorry, that was footage from Uncle Jessy's video on Resinlapse. I went to the video, but he doesn't mentioned what resin it is. Some sort of transparent one though. Sorry I can't be more help.
If I were to program a little jiggle when the print is lifted out of the resin so that the resin could be jiggled out, would that effect the print?
If this is in between layers, I don't think it would be necessary.
If it's at the end of the print to shake of excess resin, I think it would be ok as long as it's not too strong. Some printers allow for rotating the build plate, and the excess can drip back into the vat.
I don't know what i'm doing wrong.
I have a halot one printer and I'm using de elegoo standar resin.
When I try to print the cones of calibration, the starting figure (just a tiny layer) stick in the fep. I have the default settings. Do you know what can i do?
It looks like it's not sticking to your build plate.
Might need to check that the build plate is level.
What settings are you using?
@@Habes I already have:
Initial Exposure: 45s
Exposure time: 2.5s
Motor speed: 1mm/s
Turn of delay: 4s
Risin height: 6mm
Bottom Exposure: 3 slayers
I already can print the matrix and I think that was an ok print but it can be better cuz the first and the last lines doesn't printed. Do you think that I have a good settings?
@@elpinchealdo9011 I could be worth adding more bottom exposure layers. I usually use 6-8 layers.
The exposure time you'll have to work out yourself because that varies with different resins and printers. But for the Halot one somewhere between 2.5-3.5s is it.
@@Habes Thank you very much!
my big advice is don't under support you prints for myself i rather have a few to many supports and succussed in my print then having a failed print. for myself il ike to put my own supports the using pre-supports i have found a few people that do great supports but then again more of them dont have good supports, but it all depends on what printer they have
That’s great advice!!
As for "it isn't just plug and play" I got lucky and everything worked perfectly, once I did forget to tighten the build plate, but that's about the only problem I've had so far 40+ pieces in
I have the exact same printer as you and literally got it yesterday. I must say your video helped me out so much but as this is my first printer I'd love more tips and so on.
Thanks for the comment. I'm hoping to do a review on the printer as I've had it for 7 months now. Is there anything specific you're interested in?
@@Habes it's hard to say exactly considering this is my first printer and I've barely ever sratched the surface but I would like to to kniw what washing and curing station you're using.
@@jakeplaysgames2820 I'm using Anycubic Wash and Cure 2.0 but the Halot One's build plate is a bit too big. It fits inside fine, but if you have a full build plate it won't fit.
@@Habes Gotcha I'll keep that in mind before I order my curing station.
Great video and tips, what type of mask and cartridges do you use? I've been into Bunnings and Blackwoods and they didn't really have an answer for me other than 3M Organic Vapour/Acid Gas Cartridge Filters? Is that right?
Hey Ross,
The brand was Trojan and it was the A1+P2 rating cartridges.
I'm not an expert with this and whether I need higher ratings (like A2), but it seems to block the fumes. First time I used my printer I got a headache from the fumes, but haven't since the mask.
It's quite a niche hobby so It'd be hard to ask them for advice.
I'm sorry it's not a definite answer but I hope it helps. If you find out please let me know :)
@@Habes No worries, will do and I'll look more into what you're using too. Thanks.
My on going issue is the bumps left after removing the supports.
I haven’t had too much trouble, but sand paper or a nail file might do the trick.
For bigger supports it could be worth using some clipper like you would for removing plastic models from sprues.
I hope that helps Jonathan!
the exposure calibration is per resin type ? or do you need to do it every time you get a new resin bottle ? ( even if it's the same you have been using before)
I haven't bought 3d printer yet but I'm almost on the edge of buying it, so I'm looking at all kinds of the videos
I have seen this one a lot > exposure calibration
this model looks great !
It's per resin type. So if you have ABS Like and then swap to Water Washable, you'd want to do an exposure calibration. It's even worth doing if you swap brands, as there could be a little variance.
I hope that helps.
@@Habes ah perfect, yep that's what I though, that's for confirming. Really hope to embark on the 3d printing yourney, it's been something I have been thinking about for few years now
@@nosalis No worries. All the best and glad I could help.
Exposure depends on the resin and the printers light source. The manufacturer and printing communities can likely suggest settings for your combination of choices. Somebody it there has probably already tried them. There are many folks happy to help.
Hi there. I just wondered whats the best type of paint to use for resin prints please?
It depends on what their application is. I'm using them as tabletop miniatures, so I'm using acrylic based paints especially for that.
In general as long as you prime the print first with a primer most acrylics should be good, unless you have a very specific purpose for the print.
@@Habes Thank you very much. That's really useful.
A water based quick dry undercoat / primer?