Was under 5 minutes in and I've learned more than any of the other channels I've watched to remedy some of my issues with 3D prints. Also, Uncle Jessy sent me here!
Oh God, I can’t tell you how much this helped me with my first resin printer! I had been using the validation matrix exclusively and suffered from failed prints. Printing your matrix plus the exposure tester fixed it!
Not only the exposure time, but also the UV power count in this matter!!! When I turned up my UV power to 80 (the factory setting was around 60 on my Photon Mono X), which is recommended for darker resin, my prints got better even if I lowered the exposure time to 1.5 sec. So begginers pay attention to this as well!
@@walterrldias I just realized I wrote exposure time instead of UV power to 80. I hope nobody set exposure time to 80 for 1 layer. :D I edited it now. Anyway I tried many to print faster, but it has limits, so right now my prints don't fail with this setting: Layer thickness: 0.05 or 0.1 mm UV power 80 Exposure time 2 sec Lift distance 5>1 mm Lift speed 2-2 mm/s Retract speed 4-4 mm/s (I tried it faster, but it starts to make annoying cured little layers next to the print, so it is the fastest which makes clean prints yet) Important to set the supports thickness to 1.2 mm, I usually print bigger 1/4 and 1/6 pieces, and sometimes 1 mm supports still failed. The connection head of the supports can be between 0.8 and 0.6 mm, depends on the size and details of the printed piece. Good support setting is very important to check them manually if there are too many or not enough placed by the slicer. Print bigger parts with less details with 0.1 mm as figure bases to spare time, and detailed parts with 0.05 mm if you want the best quality look of your printed figure. This setting is not good above 0.1 mm layer height, then you will probably need more exposure time for higher layers. Also the type of resin can act differently, I use the Anycubic grey resin.
@@Chibanah haha I had noticed the typo, but also 80 is such a UV Power number that I decided NOT to bother you with that. I thought u would notice it yourself and you did. Thanks for the feedback. I will try it later in the day.
Nice! I just paid for my Mega 8k and am doing some research. This should be very useful. Thanks for sharing, and I hope to learn more from your channel
Dude I've been printing for a few years now and your the first person to say that maybe your prints are UNDER exposed! Usually everyone says cut the exposure! I can't wait to print again!
Hello from United States. I just found your channel and this is the first video I have watch. THIS is such a huge help. I just got my first resin 3d printer and had 2 failed prints and ruined my FEP. This will be such a huge help to get my settings dialed in. Thank You
Had problems with my elegoo mars 2 pro with setting it up, did some things Dennys told me to in this video and other videos and chatted with him for a bit. Now it works like a charm and the prints are crisp! Love you Mister Wang
You mentioned the lift screw at 1:14 at I was super curious how you’d assess this but never heard more. The screw is the one thing I haven’t touched troubleshooting and what I’ve been suspecting so to hear someone mention it is affirming. Would there be z wobble and that’s how you’d diagnose this as the screw? I’ve been printing a long time and recently got some very odd fails I’ve never seen with very thin strands of cured resin attached to my object if it prints at all as well as a rectangle in a very thin layer no matter the shape or object I print.
I have been using your exposure tester quite a lot recently since I just got my printer and have been trying to find the sweet spot with the couple of resin types that I have. I have to say it's a very useful tester model. I usually print the Resin XP2 Validation matrix, Ameralabs town and your tester model together during the calibration. More than once, I found that the Resin XP2 and Ameralabs model to have printed wonderfully at a certain exposure setting but it failed on your tester model (corner support failure). If I didn't print your tester model, I wouldn't have known that the exposure setting was still a tad too low, and that it would probably fail if I were to print a complex model with a lot of fine supports. Also, your tester is quick to print since it has such a low height. For quick test, I just print alongside the Resin XP2 Validation matrix.
Thank you SO much for this!!! The combination of the thicker validation matrix and your custom exposure/support test is absolutely brilliant, the combo of tests has really helped me to understand resin and how far you can push the limits of reducing exposure time.
I have to agree! Dennys Wang Calibration pieces are the absolute best! Simple and fast - if the Dennys Wang pieces come out well (the combination of the thicker validation matrix and the custom exposure/support test), prints will not fail! Absolutely vital for successful "unconventional" resins and printing techniques...
Thanks for the calibration file. I'm dialing in some new resin but the Exposure Tester Model is barely any space between the square and the base. I used the cults3d download but it doesn't look like yours in the video. Using Lychee Pro and you can see the sliced model looks normal. Anyone care to help out? Also ran V3 cones of calibration with table, sword, skull and cones. Was over exposed, beer didn't fit in mug and sword didn't go through skull but I did have all successes and all failures on the cones.
@@theVariedLife calibration model is use only to give you headstart. Fine tune it again on real object print. If there is no space, then that means your leveling is too low and pressing the screen. Relevel with thicker paper.
This is great, I found in the early days of my 3d printing I simply used the manufacturer's recommended setting for resin type. HOWEVER I quickly figured out that is not enough. I live in FL, and we have a pretty high temp year round, and I also use the printer in my garage with no a/c (yeah it's hot). I run two fans but the common settings seem to cause failures within the print or were giving me heavy print lines. The basic validation matrix seemed to print fine, it was only when I started added supports to complex or bigger prints that caused issues. Long story short, I found a few threads saying that over exposing the bottom layers (from 30s to 45s - given it an extra few seconds for the two layers of screen protector) and pushing up the layer exposure to 3.2 seconds as well as changing the lift speed has all but helped the prints almost 100% print successful now. Good validation matrix too that you made, I will be subscribing for more!
I changed from Elegoo water washable resin to a mix of Siraya Fast/Tenacious. I used your calibration tool to set the correct exposure and it worked brilliantly. Thank you!
10/10 Video. Beautifully explained. Thank you!!!!!! Quick question, if the ambient temp is much lower (like now, in winter), should I increase my exposure time to compensate?
I'll download your test model from here Im needing my anycubic mono 4k exposure done i bought the new mono 2 the other day and its beautifully printing but would like to put one of your tests through it anyway! the validation matrix on my mono 4k i am getting good results everywhere apart from that bar on the right hand side im still getting the layer lines running up that I will let you know how i get on i might need a bit of help from someone who really knows as i am new and trying to get into the printing hobby
Very good video and well detailed. Not herp derp, hold on guys before I tell you the problem you have to hear me out, this will blow your mind ... >insert 10000 hour long video< to tell you that X is caused by Y and fixed by just changing Z from 1 to 2... wish all youtube help/guide videos were like this :(
@@wangdennys You know, videos where they take tons of time to get to the point and add a lot of non-information. You do the complete opposite and thats why I like your vids :)
For the delamination you mean you just leave the print on the plate for 1 hour and wait to see if it delaminates? Or can you remove it for the plate and wait 1 hour before cleaning and/or curing?
hi dennys, may i ask, was the details of the head in 1/12 and 1/6 scalre were very rough? and made exagerrated, ive been trynig to calibrate my printer and not showing that much details on the surface of the skin,
Hi thanks for the time you've put into this. I've printed some of your layer exposure pieces, and they are printing without the supports for the rail. The rail is printed fused to the base. Any idea what might cause that?
Dennys thank you!!!! This was so informative! I’m struggling with Voxel or pixel lines do you have any videos helping with that?? I’m trying so many different things to fix it but so far have not succeeded
Different resins and printers all perform differently, always a good idea to do calibration. I was using the original photon for a long time then switched to the mars 2 Pro, the print time is so much faster.
This test is amazing, but with the elegoo saturn 3 ultra , with different exopusures print perfectly the test, maybe is the acf, any idea? Or suggestion?
Halo. Terima kasih banyak untuk Video nya. Mau Tanya. Saya sudah melakukan test, Dan hasil tes nya perfect. Tapi saat saya coba print Headsculpt kepala botak, wajah Dan bagian belakang nya sangat halus. Tapi di bagian ubun2nya kok Masih ada print mark ya. Salah nya dmn ya? Apa memang seperti itu?
I'm trying the frames with the hooks now my first print was a fail the frames were all hanging down I've just cleaned all the small bits of the fep the hooks that didn't prints at 3.3 with the new elgoo like abs 2.0 I just cannot get these numbers down for this stuff it's awful compared to the original resin like abs! I've seen a couple of video people having to up their exposure double to 5 seconds on the xp finer though that's way to high I'm trying to get a good sweet spot then use the cones and some of your models
Awesome work very helpful!!!! Do you think you could do a video on supporting large flat objects and getting the best edege? Eg model plane wings or shipping container type stuff? Hope it makes sense.
Wonderful video sir! Keep up the great work! Can I please find out where you purchase the resin print of Bob Odenkirk? Could you please send me the link? Would love to purchase that sculpt. Thanks again for all the great videos!
Hello, thank you very much for the video, it is very useful, I would just like to know with which printer you carried out these tests, you can see a lot of detail in your prints, was it an 8K?
Hello. The video is very interesting. But I need your help. I have a Phrozen Mighty 8k, but I can't print the test. Only the first platform attached to the base and corners prints, but I can't get the cones to print. I'm on a 1.3 second exposure with Anycubic Resin. And if I increase the exposure to 2+ seconds, the test stays stuck to the fep Please help.
Great idea and video. I like your tester, but I am unwilling to sign up for another e-newletter/service to get it. So I'll have to continue using other testers. Sorry about that, but I am done signing up for stuff!!!!
Thank you for a very informative video. I like the detailed descriptions with examples. This is a big help. My Z axis torture tests showed bad print lines. Following your advice I cleaned and lubricated (using SuperLube) the leadscrew and the guide rail and bearing block. Installed stepper motor dampener and aligned he leadscrew. All this with no change in print quality. The bearing block moves very roughly on the rail so this is most likely the cause. I am waiting for new high quality replacement parts. One question, as a newbie I don't understand how lift speed and retract speed affect the print. I would like to know how to dial these parameters in.
And how do i know what lift and retract speed i need to use? Also the lifting distance etc, i have a M3 and a halot mage, for example on m3 default speeds are 180lift/240retract im using nfep
very helpful! of the parts I print, I make a dash panel for 1/24th scale race car models; I have issues with them warping after printing and curing. They are about 80 mm x 35 mm x 1 mm and print horizontally at 44.5°. I cure 1 minute/side after cleaning and they come out clean, but warp after some hours or days, even if they are printed at 90°. Do you have suggestions? Thanks
Great video! I will be going through some testing today. A question regarding voxel lines vs print lines. Now that we’ve seen how you get rid of print lines, what should I do to reduce or get rid of voxel lines? Thank you!
Hi Dennys, how are you? Thank you for your videos with all that tests. It helped me lot. Am I correct that you use supe rlube to treat FEP? Please correct me..Am I understand right, that you apply superlube to cleaned and dry fep foil and then wipe dry? Then you fill the tray with resin and print your test prints? Thank you for your answer. Best regards Daniel
May i know the function of toolbar GENERATE 3D OBJECT in PHOTON SLICER V.3.3, ... When i open slicer file and i check the object for run wih klick generate 3d object...and the result is only a half object view on 100% ...what happen with that... In the same case on slicer photon v.2.1.29...when i slice save the file like ussualy and when slice done...i klik tollbar view...an choose 3d view...and when itu running that only a half view object after 100% run...and when I print that file the result os the same with the view in slicer
What resin do you use to print these? theres zero sheen or shine on any of them. Mine always have a glossy sheen to them. no matter how much I clean or cure them-
Hey @dennys wang your videos are increadible. My photon mono 4k arrives next week and I have watched most of the videos you have done on it. Im not sure if I have missed it anywhere but how do you decide what exposure power to use?? I saw in one video you were playing with 60% and then another 30%. Whats the thinking behind this
I’m having issues with layer lines, I tried all these solutions but still have problems. I sent you an email with pictures and was hoping you could take a look
Thank you very much for the great video! I own a Flashforge Foto 8.9, and I find myself at 3.6 exposure time with little failures on two-three supports. Is that normal? Exposure seems a bit high. At 2.4, the supports were not even printed. Thank you very much in advance. Edit: I tested two different kinds of resins, the Anycubic standard and the Resione EC51.
Hello Dennys, I want to say I appreciate your in depth reviews. In your opinion which of the budget printers have most dimensional accuracy? (Assuming all settings are dialed in correctly) I need a printer that can handle multi parts keying into each other.
Was under 5 minutes in and I've learned more than any of the other channels I've watched to remedy some of my issues with 3D prints. Also, Uncle Jessy sent me here!
Thank you for your kind words.
And thank you to uncle jessy 🥰
Oh God, I can’t tell you how much this helped me with my first resin printer!
I had been using the validation matrix exclusively and suffered from failed prints.
Printing your matrix plus the exposure tester fixed it!
Happy printing!
Not only the exposure time, but also the UV power count in this matter!!! When I turned up my UV power to 80 (the factory setting was around 60 on my Photon Mono X), which is recommended for darker resin, my prints got better even if I lowered the exposure time to 1.5 sec. So begginers pay attention to this as well!
For a skin color resin, 60% is ok for a Photon mono 4k ? I did a test with 1.4 s, columns are thick and I barely see the pillars but its 100% UV
would you please share your settings? including UV Power, Cure time, lift speed and retraction speed? I use the Photon Mono 4K
@@renatosilva2078 would you please share your results with 80% and 60% UV Power? I will try soon and do the same.
@@walterrldias I just realized I wrote exposure time instead of UV power to 80. I hope nobody set exposure time to 80 for 1 layer. :D I edited it now.
Anyway I tried many to print faster, but it has limits, so right now my prints don't fail with this setting:
Layer thickness: 0.05 or 0.1 mm
UV power 80
Exposure time 2 sec
Lift distance 5>1 mm
Lift speed 2-2 mm/s
Retract speed 4-4 mm/s (I tried it faster, but it starts to make annoying cured little layers next to the print, so it is the fastest which makes clean prints yet)
Important to set the supports thickness to 1.2 mm, I usually print bigger 1/4 and 1/6 pieces, and sometimes 1 mm supports still failed. The connection head of the supports can be between 0.8 and 0.6 mm, depends on the size and details of the printed piece. Good support setting is very important to check them manually if there are too many or not enough placed by the slicer.
Print bigger parts with less details with 0.1 mm as figure bases to spare time, and detailed parts with 0.05 mm if you want the best quality look of your printed figure.
This setting is not good above 0.1 mm layer height, then you will probably need more exposure time for higher layers.
Also the type of resin can act differently, I use the Anycubic grey resin.
@@Chibanah haha I had noticed the typo, but also 80 is such a UV Power number that I decided NOT to bother you with that. I thought u would notice it yourself and you did. Thanks for the feedback. I will try it later in the day.
Wish this Video/Channel popped up sooner, would have saved hour, resin and brain cells.
Nice! I just paid for my Mega 8k and am doing some research. This should be very useful.
Thanks for sharing, and I hope to learn more from your channel
Dude I've been printing for a few years now and your the first person to say that maybe your prints are UNDER exposed! Usually everyone says cut the exposure! I can't wait to print again!
Hello from United States. I just found your channel and this is the first video I have watch. THIS is such a huge help. I just got my first resin 3d printer and had 2 failed prints and ruined my FEP. This will be such a huge help to get my settings dialed in. Thank You
Had problems with my elegoo mars 2 pro with setting it up, did some things Dennys told me to in this video and other videos and chatted with him for a bit. Now it works like a charm and the prints are crisp! Love you Mister Wang
Thank you!
Saw 45 seconds of this video, and I'm a sub for sure....now when I have more time I want to watch all your vids.
Thank you
You mentioned the lift screw at 1:14 at I was super curious how you’d assess this but never heard more. The screw is the one thing I haven’t touched troubleshooting and what I’ve been suspecting so to hear someone mention it is affirming. Would there be z wobble and that’s how you’d diagnose this as the screw? I’ve been printing a long time and recently got some very odd fails I’ve never seen with very thin strands of cured resin attached to my object if it prints at all as well as a rectangle in a very thin layer no matter the shape or object I print.
I have been using your exposure tester quite a lot recently since I just got my printer and have been trying to find the sweet spot with the couple of resin types that I have. I have to say it's a very useful tester model. I usually print the Resin XP2 Validation matrix, Ameralabs town and your tester model together during the calibration. More than once, I found that the Resin XP2 and Ameralabs model to have printed wonderfully at a certain exposure setting but it failed on your tester model (corner support failure). If I didn't print your tester model, I wouldn't have known that the exposure setting was still a tad too low, and that it would probably fail if I were to print a complex model with a lot of fine supports. Also, your tester is quick to print since it has such a low height. For quick test, I just print alongside the Resin XP2 Validation matrix.
Thank you for testing my exposure tester and let me know your experience using it.
Geezus! I didn't realize JUST how detailed resin printing could be.
And the resolution keep getting higher
Thanks my man,
My nemesis is that, I could only print models of supports. After your video I will increase exposer time.
Thank you SO much for this!!! The combination of the thicker validation matrix and your custom exposure/support test is absolutely brilliant, the combo of tests has really helped me to understand resin and how far you can push the limits of reducing exposure time.
I have to agree! Dennys Wang Calibration pieces are the absolute best! Simple and fast - if the Dennys Wang pieces come out well (the combination of the thicker validation matrix and the custom exposure/support test), prints will not fail!
Absolutely vital for successful "unconventional" resins and printing techniques...
I have found your test model's on cults and following there aswell, I will be testing all this over the next couple of day's many thanks!
Hello,
Want to ask at 3:00
What is the exposure of the left one with print line, and what is the exposure of the correct one?
THanks
This is the best informative test print explanation I have ever encountered.. Thank you so much!
I'm just starting in the world of printing, and your videos are so good and well-explained. I've subscribed!
I recently switched to Sunlu standard resin and it's been a hell of a job to remove the exposure tester off the build plate.
That means the bottom exposure is overexpose
Thanks. This is a genius test piece, to capture the fail print and also very clear result, with no guessing.
LOL
I always put it to the real life test.
Thanks for the calibration file. I'm dialing in some new resin but the Exposure Tester Model is barely any space between the square and the base. I used the cults3d download but it doesn't look like yours in the video. Using Lychee Pro and you can see the sliced model looks normal. Anyone care to help out? Also ran V3 cones of calibration with table, sword, skull and cones. Was over exposed, beer didn't fit in mug and sword didn't go through skull but I did have all successes and all failures on the cones.
@@theVariedLife calibration model is use only to give you headstart.
Fine tune it again on real object print.
If there is no space, then that means your leveling is too low and pressing the screen.
Relevel with thicker paper.
@@wangdennys Thank you very much. Will work on that.
This is great, I found in the early days of my 3d printing I simply used the manufacturer's recommended setting for resin type. HOWEVER I quickly figured out that is not enough. I live in FL, and we have a pretty high temp year round, and I also use the printer in my garage with no a/c (yeah it's hot). I run two fans but the common settings seem to cause failures within the print or were giving me heavy print lines. The basic validation matrix seemed to print fine, it was only when I started added supports to complex or bigger prints that caused issues. Long story short, I found a few threads saying that over exposing the bottom layers (from 30s to 45s - given it an extra few seconds for the two layers of screen protector) and pushing up the layer exposure to 3.2 seconds as well as changing the lift speed has all but helped the prints almost 100% print successful now. Good validation matrix too that you made, I will be subscribing for more!
Very excited to try this. Just got my printer about a month ago and have been frustrated with occasional print lines. Thanks for this!
Thank you
Great Video (again).
your videos are really helpful and your support is simply fantastic. Keep up the great work, much appreciated.
Thanks
Axel
Thank you
I changed from Elegoo water washable resin to a mix of Siraya Fast/Tenacious. I used your calibration tool to set the correct exposure and it worked brilliantly. Thank you!
Super cool video as usual Dennys, let me in the new group! keep it up!
Will do
Thank you
Your results look like they couldn't be improved. I'm so impressed. And subscribed. So very subscribed.
I am testing how to improve,
Maybe by using other resin.
I will share when i have good result.
You are very kind man to share your knowledge and are a true teacher thank you for your outstanding videoos
Thank you
There will be updated version for exposure tester soon
Great content. Do you mind making video about post printing process (cleaning, curing etc), your prints look incredible! Thanks.
can you share a link to those two heads/busts that you are printing
thanks very usefull videos
Holy hell. Amazing video and crazy helpful you absolute legend.
Amazing video even in 2024! Solve all my problems. Can you tell me where can I get Saul Goodman stl? I really like it.
Thank you for making the Exposure Tester model. It is proving invaluable to the new Anycubic Photon Ultra DLP that is reaching backers.
¡Gracias!
Thank you
those head models looks amazing!
Excellent work Dennys. This will save me a lot of time when trying out new resin. I will try it soon.
Best channel for SLA
Thank you
Thanks, this was really handy and works great. Love the exposure tester model.
Your videos and calibration models are really great. You have really helped me improve my prints. Very much appreciated.
Thank you!
Great video.. but... How does your test show over exposure?
you get a like and a follow.. your 2.5 second layer time was great.!
I was just curious where your Sephiroth model came from, I love the stylized genre. Also your video is super informative, thank you.
It is from RVN minis on patreon.
10/10 Video. Beautifully explained. Thank you!!!!!!
Quick question, if the ambient temp is much lower (like now, in winter), should I increase my exposure time to compensate?
Yes increase it
Also longer rest time.
@@wangdennys What do you mean by rest time? Before curing it?
(Btw thank you for the fast answer)!
Very important video. This link should be in every notice. Thanks a lot !
Welcome!
And thank you for watching!
@@wangdennys I'm french, and you speak slowly, so I can understand. It's miraculous :)
I am reading script 🤣
LOL
@@wangdennys Hello, how to print the exposure tester ? Flat on the board, or slightly inclined ? Thanks a lot !
Could message me on my social media
With image of the print result?
I'll download your test model from here Im needing my anycubic mono 4k exposure done i bought the new mono 2 the other day and its beautifully printing but would like to put one of your tests through it anyway!
the validation matrix on my mono 4k i am getting good results everywhere apart from that bar on the right hand side im still getting the layer lines running up that
I will let you know how i get on i might need a bit of help from someone who really knows as i am new and trying to get into the printing hobby
Off course an FB group will the cherry On Top
I suggest a name Resin Guidelines
Resin printing guidelines?
Good one
Very good video and well detailed. Not herp derp, hold on guys before I tell you the problem you have to hear me out, this will blow your mind ... >insert 10000 hour long video< to tell you that X is caused by Y and fixed by just changing Z from 1 to 2... wish all youtube help/guide videos were like this :(
10000 hours long video? 😲
@@wangdennys You know, videos where they take tons of time to get to the point and add a lot of non-information. You do the complete opposite and thats why I like your vids :)
@@ravager990 thank you so much for the compliment
Thank you so much:) warm greetings from Norway
I think I definitely got z rod/rail issues. I'll try to change the nfep to be sure and I'll try your test piece on castable resin. Thanks.
For the delamination you mean you just leave the print on the plate for 1 hour and wait to see if it delaminates? Or can you remove it for the plate and wait 1 hour before cleaning and/or curing?
I just leave it.
It is a method really similar to cones of calibration.
Yes, we come out relative at the same time.
Different people with the same goal in mind.
@@wangdennys your method still seems to have some resolution more in fine tuning. I'll give It a try.
@@gentiligiuliano7882 let me know how it goes
hi dennys, may i ask, was the details of the head in 1/12 and 1/6 scalre were very rough? and made exagerrated, ive been trynig to calibrate my printer and not showing that much details on the surface of the skin,
Great explanation! Would love more videos like this!
Thank you
Hi thanks for the time you've put into this. I've printed some of your layer exposure pieces, and they are printing without the supports for the rail. The rail is printed fused to the base. Any idea what might cause that?
Looks like compression issue.
Check my sonic mini 8k review part.
I show how to troubleshoot it.
Love this, can you also share your thicker validation matrix?
Ok. Will upload it later tonight.
amazing video thank you! One quick question what was the exposure time for the burn layers?
Dennys thank you!!!! This was so informative! I’m struggling with Voxel or pixel lines do you have any videos helping with that?? I’m trying so many different things to fix it but so far have not succeeded
Check my video after this one
About print angle + antialiasing
What printer and slicee you using?
Different resins and printers all perform differently, always a good idea to do calibration. I was using the original photon for a long time then switched to the mars 2 Pro, the print time is so much faster.
Yes indeed.
And also temp and humidity can affect resin exposure
ooo that skin and hair texture at the start.
Hi, do I need to increase exposure when printing something bigger like on the Mega 8k?
All i can say is try it first without increase.
@@wangdennys thanks, are you still active on patreon? can I ask more questions there or are you more active here? thanks for your help sir
@@zedabyu i still active on patreon
But usually prefer my social media for faster response.
This test is amazing, but with the elegoo saturn 3 ultra , with different exopusures print perfectly the test, maybe is the acf, any idea? Or suggestion?
6:32 it also pulled away from the supports as well
The support got pulled away when remove the object from build plate.
And that is very common on whatever exposure you use.
man this was so helpful - thank you!
Halo. Terima kasih banyak untuk Video nya.
Mau Tanya.
Saya sudah melakukan test, Dan hasil tes nya perfect.
Tapi saat saya coba print Headsculpt kepala botak, wajah Dan bagian belakang nya sangat halus.
Tapi di bagian ubun2nya kok Masih ada print mark ya.
Salah nya dmn ya?
Apa memang seperti itu?
I'm trying the frames with the hooks now my first print was a fail the frames were all hanging down I've just cleaned all the small bits of the fep the hooks that didn't prints at 3.3 with the new elgoo like abs 2.0 I just cannot get these numbers down for this stuff it's awful compared to the original resin like abs! I've seen a couple of video people having to up their exposure double to 5 seconds on the xp finer though that's way to high I'm trying to get a good sweet spot then use the cones and some of your models
Awesome work very helpful!!!! Do you think you could do a video on supporting large flat objects and getting the best edege? Eg model plane wings or shipping container type stuff? Hope it makes sense.
Yes i will make video about support in the future.
But for now i am focusing on more basic printer setting
Thank you, what sort of resin do you use? Looks really nice
Wonderful video sir! Keep up the great work! Can I please find out where you purchase the resin print of Bob Odenkirk? Could you please send me the link? Would love to purchase that sculpt. Thanks again for all the great videos!
Your test helped me soo much. May I ask what resin you use? Your prints look amazing.
Hello, thank you very much for the video, it is very useful, I would just like to know with which printer you carried out these tests, you can see a lot of detail in your prints, was it an 8K?
It was on mini 4k
Hello. The video is very interesting. But I need your help. I have a Phrozen Mighty 8k, but I can't print the test. Only the first platform attached to the base and corners prints, but I can't get the cones to print. I'm on a 1.3 second exposure with Anycubic Resin. And if I increase the exposure to 2+ seconds, the test stays stuck to the fep Please help.
Great idea and video. I like your tester, but I am unwilling to sign up for another e-newletter/service to get it. So I'll have to continue using other testers. Sorry about that, but I am done signing up for stuff!!!!
Singing up for what?
The tester is available for free on cults3d.
I had a suggestion. make your own website for the group.
I dont know how to make website
Thank you, very informative video. Where did you get the Bob Odenkirk STL from please?
It's made by kaizen toys on facebook
I would be interested in that group.
Thank you for a very informative video. I like the detailed descriptions with examples. This is a big help. My Z axis torture tests showed bad print lines. Following your advice I cleaned and lubricated (using SuperLube) the leadscrew and the guide rail and bearing block. Installed stepper motor dampener and aligned he leadscrew. All this with no change in print quality. The bearing block moves very roughly on the rail so this is most likely the cause. I am waiting for new high quality replacement parts. One question, as a newbie I don't understand how lift speed and retract speed affect the print. I would like to know how to dial these parameters in.
And how do i know what lift and retract speed i need to use? Also the lifting distance etc, i have a M3 and a halot mage, for example on m3 default speeds are 180lift/240retract im using nfep
Great video, I'm new in this hooby and this was so usefull. Thx
Dude, love this test file. Really useful
Thank you
Does anyone know where to get the files for the head sculpts? I really LOVE the look of them! :o
The video was super helpful, thank you so much!
Thanks! very clear information and I like your test model for exposure testing.
Can you please let me know where you got that Saul (Bob Odenkirk) bust from?
Thanks for this. Will give it a try tomorrow
This was a great video, thanks for sharing your info.
Welcome!
Kindly consider to subscribe
Thank you
very helpful! of the parts I print, I make a dash panel for 1/24th scale race car models; I have issues with them warping after printing and curing. They are about 80 mm x 35 mm x 1 mm and print horizontally at 44.5°. I cure 1 minute/side after cleaning and they come out clean, but warp after some hours or days, even if they are printed at 90°. Do you have suggestions? Thanks
I print some object flat with phrozen aqua grey 8k resin
And not experience any warping.
Maybe yoy can try it.
@@wangdennys I'll test some flat to see it it helps, but I also had this issue with thin parts with my Formlabs printer also
This was extremely helpful!!!
Great video! I will be going through some testing today. A question regarding voxel lines vs print lines. Now that we’ve seen how you get rid of print lines, what should I do to reduce or get rid of voxel lines? Thank you!
Check other video about print angle + antialiasing
@@wangdennys Will do, thank you!
Hi Dennys, how are you? Thank you for your videos with all that tests. It helped me lot. Am I correct that you use supe rlube to treat FEP? Please correct me..Am I understand right, that you apply superlube to cleaned and dry fep foil and then wipe dry? Then you fill the tray with resin and print your test prints? Thank you for your answer. Best regards Daniel
I never suggest to lube fep with anything.
Lube only leadscrew and rail
@@wangdennys Thanks for the reply and correction. I misunderstood and preferred to ask. 🙈☺️
Baru nyadar ternyata orang Indonesia ya.
Makasih infonya, sangat membantu.
File2 HS nya download/beli dmn ya kak?
@@zain_toy_photography_shorts tengkyu
Maap itu punya temen, ga bole di share
@wangdennys siap om gpp
How we can check on slicer before printing, that object will be sucsses to print ?..... Thank you
Slicer can only preview the slice file. No way to tell the print result other than real test print.
May i know the function of toolbar GENERATE 3D OBJECT in PHOTON SLICER V.3.3, ... When i open slicer file and i check the object for run wih klick generate 3d object...and the result is only a half object view on 100% ...what happen with that... In the same case on slicer photon v.2.1.29...when i slice save the file like ussualy and when slice done...i klik tollbar view...an choose 3d view...and when itu running that only a half view object after 100% run...and when I print that file the result os the same with the view in slicer
What resin do you use to print these? theres zero sheen or shine on any of them. Mine always have a glossy sheen to them. no matter how much I clean or cure them-
What resin, printer and parameters did you use for printing big faces?? Thx
Hi, can you give reccomendation or share your setting for perfect exposure for Anycubic photon mono 4K, as you also user of those printers, thanx...
Please keep in kind climate and temp can affect resin exposure.
My setting
Uv power 30%
Layer height 30um
Layer exposure 1.6s
Bottom exposure 20s.
Hey @dennys wang your videos are increadible. My photon mono 4k arrives next week and I have watched most of the videos you have done on it. Im not sure if I have missed it anywhere but how do you decide what exposure power to use?? I saw in one video you were playing with 60% and then another 30%. Whats the thinking behind this
I’m having issues with layer lines, I tried all these solutions but still have problems. I sent you an email with pictures and was hoping you could take a look
Thank you very much for the great video! I own a Flashforge Foto 8.9, and I find myself at 3.6 exposure time with little failures on two-three supports. Is that normal? Exposure seems a bit high. At 2.4, the supports were not even printed. Thank you very much in advance. Edit: I tested two different kinds of resins, the Anycubic standard and the Resione EC51.
Hello Dennys, I want to say I appreciate your in depth reviews. In your opinion which of the budget printers have most dimensional accuracy? (Assuming all settings are dialed in correctly) I need a printer that can handle multi parts keying into each other.
Latest review is mighty 8k and mini 8k
Very accurate imo
this was incredibly helpful, thank you so much!
Thank you
Awesome video bro , any tips for the Mars 3 4k ultra ? I keep getting voxel lines in my headsculpt prints ? I use chitubox
Use aa 2, grey 0, ib 2
Different position on the bed should be tested one single model/position at time, or we can print multiple models at the same time?