Was under 5 minutes in and I've learned more than any of the other channels I've watched to remedy some of my issues with 3D prints. Also, Uncle Jessy sent me here!
Oh God, I can’t tell you how much this helped me with my first resin printer! I had been using the validation matrix exclusively and suffered from failed prints. Printing your matrix plus the exposure tester fixed it!
Dude I've been printing for a few years now and your the first person to say that maybe your prints are UNDER exposed! Usually everyone says cut the exposure! I can't wait to print again!
Not only the exposure time, but also the UV power count in this matter!!! When I turned up my UV power to 80 (the factory setting was around 60 on my Photon Mono X), which is recommended for darker resin, my prints got better even if I lowered the exposure time to 1.5 sec. So begginers pay attention to this as well!
@@walterrldias I just realized I wrote exposure time instead of UV power to 80. I hope nobody set exposure time to 80 for 1 layer. :D I edited it now. Anyway I tried many to print faster, but it has limits, so right now my prints don't fail with this setting: Layer thickness: 0.05 or 0.1 mm UV power 80 Exposure time 2 sec Lift distance 5>1 mm Lift speed 2-2 mm/s Retract speed 4-4 mm/s (I tried it faster, but it starts to make annoying cured little layers next to the print, so it is the fastest which makes clean prints yet) Important to set the supports thickness to 1.2 mm, I usually print bigger 1/4 and 1/6 pieces, and sometimes 1 mm supports still failed. The connection head of the supports can be between 0.8 and 0.6 mm, depends on the size and details of the printed piece. Good support setting is very important to check them manually if there are too many or not enough placed by the slicer. Print bigger parts with less details with 0.1 mm as figure bases to spare time, and detailed parts with 0.05 mm if you want the best quality look of your printed figure. This setting is not good above 0.1 mm layer height, then you will probably need more exposure time for higher layers. Also the type of resin can act differently, I use the Anycubic grey resin.
@@Chibanah haha I had noticed the typo, but also 80 is such a UV Power number that I decided NOT to bother you with that. I thought u would notice it yourself and you did. Thanks for the feedback. I will try it later in the day.
Hello from United States. I just found your channel and this is the first video I have watch. THIS is such a huge help. I just got my first resin 3d printer and had 2 failed prints and ruined my FEP. This will be such a huge help to get my settings dialed in. Thank You
Had problems with my elegoo mars 2 pro with setting it up, did some things Dennys told me to in this video and other videos and chatted with him for a bit. Now it works like a charm and the prints are crisp! Love you Mister Wang
Thank you SO much for this!!! The combination of the thicker validation matrix and your custom exposure/support test is absolutely brilliant, the combo of tests has really helped me to understand resin and how far you can push the limits of reducing exposure time.
I have to agree! Dennys Wang Calibration pieces are the absolute best! Simple and fast - if the Dennys Wang pieces come out well (the combination of the thicker validation matrix and the custom exposure/support test), prints will not fail! Absolutely vital for successful "unconventional" resins and printing techniques...
Nice! I just paid for my Mega 8k and am doing some research. This should be very useful. Thanks for sharing, and I hope to learn more from your channel
I have been using your exposure tester quite a lot recently since I just got my printer and have been trying to find the sweet spot with the couple of resin types that I have. I have to say it's a very useful tester model. I usually print the Resin XP2 Validation matrix, Ameralabs town and your tester model together during the calibration. More than once, I found that the Resin XP2 and Ameralabs model to have printed wonderfully at a certain exposure setting but it failed on your tester model (corner support failure). If I didn't print your tester model, I wouldn't have known that the exposure setting was still a tad too low, and that it would probably fail if I were to print a complex model with a lot of fine supports. Also, your tester is quick to print since it has such a low height. For quick test, I just print alongside the Resin XP2 Validation matrix.
This is great, I found in the early days of my 3d printing I simply used the manufacturer's recommended setting for resin type. HOWEVER I quickly figured out that is not enough. I live in FL, and we have a pretty high temp year round, and I also use the printer in my garage with no a/c (yeah it's hot). I run two fans but the common settings seem to cause failures within the print or were giving me heavy print lines. The basic validation matrix seemed to print fine, it was only when I started added supports to complex or bigger prints that caused issues. Long story short, I found a few threads saying that over exposing the bottom layers (from 30s to 45s - given it an extra few seconds for the two layers of screen protector) and pushing up the layer exposure to 3.2 seconds as well as changing the lift speed has all but helped the prints almost 100% print successful now. Good validation matrix too that you made, I will be subscribing for more!
I changed from Elegoo water washable resin to a mix of Siraya Fast/Tenacious. I used your calibration tool to set the correct exposure and it worked brilliantly. Thank you!
You mentioned the lift screw at 1:14 at I was super curious how you’d assess this but never heard more. The screw is the one thing I haven’t touched troubleshooting and what I’ve been suspecting so to hear someone mention it is affirming. Would there be z wobble and that’s how you’d diagnose this as the screw? I’ve been printing a long time and recently got some very odd fails I’ve never seen with very thin strands of cured resin attached to my object if it prints at all as well as a rectangle in a very thin layer no matter the shape or object I print.
Different resins and printers all perform differently, always a good idea to do calibration. I was using the original photon for a long time then switched to the mars 2 Pro, the print time is so much faster.
Thanks for the calibration file. I'm dialing in some new resin but the Exposure Tester Model is barely any space between the square and the base. I used the cults3d download but it doesn't look like yours in the video. Using Lychee Pro and you can see the sliced model looks normal. Anyone care to help out? Also ran V3 cones of calibration with table, sword, skull and cones. Was over exposed, beer didn't fit in mug and sword didn't go through skull but I did have all successes and all failures on the cones.
@@theVariedLife calibration model is use only to give you headstart. Fine tune it again on real object print. If there is no space, then that means your leveling is too low and pressing the screen. Relevel with thicker paper.
Very good video and well detailed. Not herp derp, hold on guys before I tell you the problem you have to hear me out, this will blow your mind ... >insert 10000 hour long video< to tell you that X is caused by Y and fixed by just changing Z from 1 to 2... wish all youtube help/guide videos were like this :(
@@wangdennys You know, videos where they take tons of time to get to the point and add a lot of non-information. You do the complete opposite and thats why I like your vids :)
10/10 Video. Beautifully explained. Thank you!!!!!! Quick question, if the ambient temp is much lower (like now, in winter), should I increase my exposure time to compensate?
Hi thanks for the time you've put into this. I've printed some of your layer exposure pieces, and they are printing without the supports for the rail. The rail is printed fused to the base. Any idea what might cause that?
hi dennys, may i ask, was the details of the head in 1/12 and 1/6 scalre were very rough? and made exagerrated, ive been trynig to calibrate my printer and not showing that much details on the surface of the skin,
I'll download your test model from here Im needing my anycubic mono 4k exposure done i bought the new mono 2 the other day and its beautifully printing but would like to put one of your tests through it anyway! the validation matrix on my mono 4k i am getting good results everywhere apart from that bar on the right hand side im still getting the layer lines running up that I will let you know how i get on i might need a bit of help from someone who really knows as i am new and trying to get into the printing hobby
Thank you for a very informative video. I like the detailed descriptions with examples. This is a big help. My Z axis torture tests showed bad print lines. Following your advice I cleaned and lubricated (using SuperLube) the leadscrew and the guide rail and bearing block. Installed stepper motor dampener and aligned he leadscrew. All this with no change in print quality. The bearing block moves very roughly on the rail so this is most likely the cause. I am waiting for new high quality replacement parts. One question, as a newbie I don't understand how lift speed and retract speed affect the print. I would like to know how to dial these parameters in.
Awesome work very helpful!!!! Do you think you could do a video on supporting large flat objects and getting the best edege? Eg model plane wings or shipping container type stuff? Hope it makes sense.
Hello. The video is very interesting. But I need your help. I have a Phrozen Mighty 8k, but I can't print the test. Only the first platform attached to the base and corners prints, but I can't get the cones to print. I'm on a 1.3 second exposure with Anycubic Resin. And if I increase the exposure to 2+ seconds, the test stays stuck to the fep Please help.
Hello, thank you very much for the video, it is very useful, I would just like to know with which printer you carried out these tests, you can see a lot of detail in your prints, was it an 8K?
Dennys thank you!!!! This was so informative! I’m struggling with Voxel or pixel lines do you have any videos helping with that?? I’m trying so many different things to fix it but so far have not succeeded
Great video! I will be going through some testing today. A question regarding voxel lines vs print lines. Now that we’ve seen how you get rid of print lines, what should I do to reduce or get rid of voxel lines? Thank you!
Great idea and video. I like your tester, but I am unwilling to sign up for another e-newletter/service to get it. So I'll have to continue using other testers. Sorry about that, but I am done signing up for stuff!!!!
This test is amazing, but with the elegoo saturn 3 ultra , with different exopusures print perfectly the test, maybe is the acf, any idea? Or suggestion?
Wonderful video sir! Keep up the great work! Can I please find out where you purchase the resin print of Bob Odenkirk? Could you please send me the link? Would love to purchase that sculpt. Thanks again for all the great videos!
Hey @dennys wang your videos are increadible. My photon mono 4k arrives next week and I have watched most of the videos you have done on it. Im not sure if I have missed it anywhere but how do you decide what exposure power to use?? I saw in one video you were playing with 60% and then another 30%. Whats the thinking behind this
Hi Dennys, how are you? Thank you for your videos with all that tests. It helped me lot. Am I correct that you use supe rlube to treat FEP? Please correct me..Am I understand right, that you apply superlube to cleaned and dry fep foil and then wipe dry? Then you fill the tray with resin and print your test prints? Thank you for your answer. Best regards Daniel
For the delamination you mean you just leave the print on the plate for 1 hour and wait to see if it delaminates? Or can you remove it for the plate and wait 1 hour before cleaning and/or curing?
very helpful! of the parts I print, I make a dash panel for 1/24th scale race car models; I have issues with them warping after printing and curing. They are about 80 mm x 35 mm x 1 mm and print horizontally at 44.5°. I cure 1 minute/side after cleaning and they come out clean, but warp after some hours or days, even if they are printed at 90°. Do you have suggestions? Thanks
What resin do you use to print these? theres zero sheen or shine on any of them. Mine always have a glossy sheen to them. no matter how much I clean or cure them-
Was under 5 minutes in and I've learned more than any of the other channels I've watched to remedy some of my issues with 3D prints. Also, Uncle Jessy sent me here!
Thank you for your kind words.
And thank you to uncle jessy 🥰
Oh God, I can’t tell you how much this helped me with my first resin printer!
I had been using the validation matrix exclusively and suffered from failed prints.
Printing your matrix plus the exposure tester fixed it!
Happy printing!
Dude I've been printing for a few years now and your the first person to say that maybe your prints are UNDER exposed! Usually everyone says cut the exposure! I can't wait to print again!
Wish this Video/Channel popped up sooner, would have saved hour, resin and brain cells.
Not only the exposure time, but also the UV power count in this matter!!! When I turned up my UV power to 80 (the factory setting was around 60 on my Photon Mono X), which is recommended for darker resin, my prints got better even if I lowered the exposure time to 1.5 sec. So begginers pay attention to this as well!
For a skin color resin, 60% is ok for a Photon mono 4k ? I did a test with 1.4 s, columns are thick and I barely see the pillars but its 100% UV
would you please share your settings? including UV Power, Cure time, lift speed and retraction speed? I use the Photon Mono 4K
@@renatosilva2078 would you please share your results with 80% and 60% UV Power? I will try soon and do the same.
@@walterrldias I just realized I wrote exposure time instead of UV power to 80. I hope nobody set exposure time to 80 for 1 layer. :D I edited it now.
Anyway I tried many to print faster, but it has limits, so right now my prints don't fail with this setting:
Layer thickness: 0.05 or 0.1 mm
UV power 80
Exposure time 2 sec
Lift distance 5>1 mm
Lift speed 2-2 mm/s
Retract speed 4-4 mm/s (I tried it faster, but it starts to make annoying cured little layers next to the print, so it is the fastest which makes clean prints yet)
Important to set the supports thickness to 1.2 mm, I usually print bigger 1/4 and 1/6 pieces, and sometimes 1 mm supports still failed. The connection head of the supports can be between 0.8 and 0.6 mm, depends on the size and details of the printed piece. Good support setting is very important to check them manually if there are too many or not enough placed by the slicer.
Print bigger parts with less details with 0.1 mm as figure bases to spare time, and detailed parts with 0.05 mm if you want the best quality look of your printed figure.
This setting is not good above 0.1 mm layer height, then you will probably need more exposure time for higher layers.
Also the type of resin can act differently, I use the Anycubic grey resin.
@@Chibanah haha I had noticed the typo, but also 80 is such a UV Power number that I decided NOT to bother you with that. I thought u would notice it yourself and you did. Thanks for the feedback. I will try it later in the day.
Hello from United States. I just found your channel and this is the first video I have watch. THIS is such a huge help. I just got my first resin 3d printer and had 2 failed prints and ruined my FEP. This will be such a huge help to get my settings dialed in. Thank You
Had problems with my elegoo mars 2 pro with setting it up, did some things Dennys told me to in this video and other videos and chatted with him for a bit. Now it works like a charm and the prints are crisp! Love you Mister Wang
Thank you!
Saw 45 seconds of this video, and I'm a sub for sure....now when I have more time I want to watch all your vids.
Thank you
Thank you SO much for this!!! The combination of the thicker validation matrix and your custom exposure/support test is absolutely brilliant, the combo of tests has really helped me to understand resin and how far you can push the limits of reducing exposure time.
I have to agree! Dennys Wang Calibration pieces are the absolute best! Simple and fast - if the Dennys Wang pieces come out well (the combination of the thicker validation matrix and the custom exposure/support test), prints will not fail!
Absolutely vital for successful "unconventional" resins and printing techniques...
Nice! I just paid for my Mega 8k and am doing some research. This should be very useful.
Thanks for sharing, and I hope to learn more from your channel
I have been using your exposure tester quite a lot recently since I just got my printer and have been trying to find the sweet spot with the couple of resin types that I have. I have to say it's a very useful tester model. I usually print the Resin XP2 Validation matrix, Ameralabs town and your tester model together during the calibration. More than once, I found that the Resin XP2 and Ameralabs model to have printed wonderfully at a certain exposure setting but it failed on your tester model (corner support failure). If I didn't print your tester model, I wouldn't have known that the exposure setting was still a tad too low, and that it would probably fail if I were to print a complex model with a lot of fine supports. Also, your tester is quick to print since it has such a low height. For quick test, I just print alongside the Resin XP2 Validation matrix.
Thank you for testing my exposure tester and let me know your experience using it.
Geezus! I didn't realize JUST how detailed resin printing could be.
And the resolution keep getting higher
Thanks my man,
My nemesis is that, I could only print models of supports. After your video I will increase exposer time.
I'm just starting in the world of printing, and your videos are so good and well-explained. I've subscribed!
Thanks. This is a genius test piece, to capture the fail print and also very clear result, with no guessing.
LOL
I always put it to the real life test.
This is the best informative test print explanation I have ever encountered.. Thank you so much!
This is great, I found in the early days of my 3d printing I simply used the manufacturer's recommended setting for resin type. HOWEVER I quickly figured out that is not enough. I live in FL, and we have a pretty high temp year round, and I also use the printer in my garage with no a/c (yeah it's hot). I run two fans but the common settings seem to cause failures within the print or were giving me heavy print lines. The basic validation matrix seemed to print fine, it was only when I started added supports to complex or bigger prints that caused issues. Long story short, I found a few threads saying that over exposing the bottom layers (from 30s to 45s - given it an extra few seconds for the two layers of screen protector) and pushing up the layer exposure to 3.2 seconds as well as changing the lift speed has all but helped the prints almost 100% print successful now. Good validation matrix too that you made, I will be subscribing for more!
I have found your test model's on cults and following there aswell, I will be testing all this over the next couple of day's many thanks!
I changed from Elegoo water washable resin to a mix of Siraya Fast/Tenacious. I used your calibration tool to set the correct exposure and it worked brilliantly. Thank you!
Very excited to try this. Just got my printer about a month ago and have been frustrated with occasional print lines. Thanks for this!
Thank you
You are very kind man to share your knowledge and are a true teacher thank you for your outstanding videoos
Thank you
There will be updated version for exposure tester soon
Thank you for making the Exposure Tester model. It is proving invaluable to the new Anycubic Photon Ultra DLP that is reaching backers.
I recently switched to Sunlu standard resin and it's been a hell of a job to remove the exposure tester off the build plate.
That means the bottom exposure is overexpose
You mentioned the lift screw at 1:14 at I was super curious how you’d assess this but never heard more. The screw is the one thing I haven’t touched troubleshooting and what I’ve been suspecting so to hear someone mention it is affirming. Would there be z wobble and that’s how you’d diagnose this as the screw? I’ve been printing a long time and recently got some very odd fails I’ve never seen with very thin strands of cured resin attached to my object if it prints at all as well as a rectangle in a very thin layer no matter the shape or object I print.
Great Video (again).
your videos are really helpful and your support is simply fantastic. Keep up the great work, much appreciated.
Thanks
Axel
Thank you
those head models looks amazing!
Best channel for SLA
Thank you
Holy hell. Amazing video and crazy helpful you absolute legend.
Super cool video as usual Dennys, let me in the new group! keep it up!
Will do
Thank you
you get a like and a follow.. your 2.5 second layer time was great.!
Your videos and calibration models are really great. You have really helped me improve my prints. Very much appreciated.
Thank you!
Off course an FB group will the cherry On Top
I suggest a name Resin Guidelines
Resin printing guidelines?
Good one
Thanks, this was really handy and works great. Love the exposure tester model.
Your results look like they couldn't be improved. I'm so impressed. And subscribed. So very subscribed.
I am testing how to improve,
Maybe by using other resin.
I will share when i have good result.
Thank you so much:) warm greetings from Norway
Excellent work Dennys. This will save me a lot of time when trying out new resin. I will try it soon.
Great content. Do you mind making video about post printing process (cleaning, curing etc), your prints look incredible! Thanks.
Different resins and printers all perform differently, always a good idea to do calibration. I was using the original photon for a long time then switched to the mars 2 Pro, the print time is so much faster.
Yes indeed.
And also temp and humidity can affect resin exposure
Very important video. This link should be in every notice. Thanks a lot !
Welcome!
And thank you for watching!
@@wangdennys I'm french, and you speak slowly, so I can understand. It's miraculous :)
I am reading script 🤣
LOL
@@wangdennys Hello, how to print the exposure tester ? Flat on the board, or slightly inclined ? Thanks a lot !
Could message me on my social media
With image of the print result?
Great explanation! Would love more videos like this!
Thank you
Thanks for this. Will give it a try tomorrow
I think I definitely got z rod/rail issues. I'll try to change the nfep to be sure and I'll try your test piece on castable resin. Thanks.
Thanks! very clear information and I like your test model for exposure testing.
Great video, I'm new in this hooby and this was so usefull. Thx
man this was so helpful - thank you!
i wil try this recomended settings
This was extremely helpful!!!
Thanks for the calibration file. I'm dialing in some new resin but the Exposure Tester Model is barely any space between the square and the base. I used the cults3d download but it doesn't look like yours in the video. Using Lychee Pro and you can see the sliced model looks normal. Anyone care to help out? Also ran V3 cones of calibration with table, sword, skull and cones. Was over exposed, beer didn't fit in mug and sword didn't go through skull but I did have all successes and all failures on the cones.
@@theVariedLife calibration model is use only to give you headstart.
Fine tune it again on real object print.
If there is no space, then that means your leveling is too low and pressing the screen.
Relevel with thicker paper.
@@wangdennys Thank you very much. Will work on that.
Hello,
Want to ask at 3:00
What is the exposure of the left one with print line, and what is the exposure of the correct one?
THanks
Amazing video even in 2024! Solve all my problems. Can you tell me where can I get Saul Goodman stl? I really like it.
Dude, love this test file. Really useful
Thank you
This was a great video, thanks for sharing your info.
Welcome!
Kindly consider to subscribe
Thank you
this was incredibly helpful, thank you so much!
Thank you
Fantastic. Thank you!
Very good video and well detailed. Not herp derp, hold on guys before I tell you the problem you have to hear me out, this will blow your mind ... >insert 10000 hour long video< to tell you that X is caused by Y and fixed by just changing Z from 1 to 2... wish all youtube help/guide videos were like this :(
10000 hours long video? 😲
@@wangdennys You know, videos where they take tons of time to get to the point and add a lot of non-information. You do the complete opposite and thats why I like your vids :)
@@ravager990 thank you so much for the compliment
thanks !!! from hong kong user
Thank you
good and clear explanation . and thanks for the test piece good job.
very helpful, thank you
I was just curious where your Sephiroth model came from, I love the stylized genre. Also your video is super informative, thank you.
It is from RVN minis on patreon.
10/10 Video. Beautifully explained. Thank you!!!!!!
Quick question, if the ambient temp is much lower (like now, in winter), should I increase my exposure time to compensate?
Yes increase it
Also longer rest time.
@@wangdennys What do you mean by rest time? Before curing it?
(Btw thank you for the fast answer)!
ooo that skin and hair texture at the start.
Hi thanks for the time you've put into this. I've printed some of your layer exposure pieces, and they are printing without the supports for the rail. The rail is printed fused to the base. Any idea what might cause that?
Looks like compression issue.
Check my sonic mini 8k review part.
I show how to troubleshoot it.
Excellent video
can you share a link to those two heads/busts that you are printing
thanks very usefull videos
Love this, can you also share your thicker validation matrix?
Ok. Will upload it later tonight.
amazing work thank you
hi dennys, may i ask, was the details of the head in 1/12 and 1/6 scalre were very rough? and made exagerrated, ive been trynig to calibrate my printer and not showing that much details on the surface of the skin,
amazing video thank you! One quick question what was the exposure time for the burn layers?
Great video.. but... How does your test show over exposure?
I'll download your test model from here Im needing my anycubic mono 4k exposure done i bought the new mono 2 the other day and its beautifully printing but would like to put one of your tests through it anyway!
the validation matrix on my mono 4k i am getting good results everywhere apart from that bar on the right hand side im still getting the layer lines running up that
I will let you know how i get on i might need a bit of help from someone who really knows as i am new and trying to get into the printing hobby
Great content as usual.
Thank you
amazing video!
Baru nyadar ternyata orang Indonesia ya.
Makasih infonya, sangat membantu.
File2 HS nya download/beli dmn ya kak?
@@zain_toy_photography_shorts tengkyu
Maap itu punya temen, ga bole di share
@wangdennys siap om gpp
I enjoyed the video. Thanks!
Thank you
Thank you, what sort of resin do you use? Looks really nice
I would be interested in that group.
Thank you for a very informative video. I like the detailed descriptions with examples. This is a big help. My Z axis torture tests showed bad print lines. Following your advice I cleaned and lubricated (using SuperLube) the leadscrew and the guide rail and bearing block. Installed stepper motor dampener and aligned he leadscrew. All this with no change in print quality. The bearing block moves very roughly on the rail so this is most likely the cause. I am waiting for new high quality replacement parts. One question, as a newbie I don't understand how lift speed and retract speed affect the print. I would like to know how to dial these parameters in.
Very helpful. Thank you very much
Genius! thanks for sharing!
Thank you
Awesome work very helpful!!!! Do you think you could do a video on supporting large flat objects and getting the best edege? Eg model plane wings or shipping container type stuff? Hope it makes sense.
Yes i will make video about support in the future.
But for now i am focusing on more basic printer setting
It is a method really similar to cones of calibration.
Yes, we come out relative at the same time.
Different people with the same goal in mind.
@@wangdennys your method still seems to have some resolution more in fine tuning. I'll give It a try.
@@gentiligiuliano7882 let me know how it goes
Hello. The video is very interesting. But I need your help. I have a Phrozen Mighty 8k, but I can't print the test. Only the first platform attached to the base and corners prints, but I can't get the cones to print. I'm on a 1.3 second exposure with Anycubic Resin. And if I increase the exposure to 2+ seconds, the test stays stuck to the fep Please help.
Thank you, very informative video. Where did you get the Bob Odenkirk STL from please?
It's made by kaizen toys on facebook
Hello, thank you very much for the video, it is very useful, I would just like to know with which printer you carried out these tests, you can see a lot of detail in your prints, was it an 8K?
It was on mini 4k
Dennys thank you!!!! This was so informative! I’m struggling with Voxel or pixel lines do you have any videos helping with that?? I’m trying so many different things to fix it but so far have not succeeded
Check my video after this one
About print angle + antialiasing
What printer and slicee you using?
Your test helped me soo much. May I ask what resin you use? Your prints look amazing.
Great video! I will be going through some testing today. A question regarding voxel lines vs print lines. Now that we’ve seen how you get rid of print lines, what should I do to reduce or get rid of voxel lines? Thank you!
Check other video about print angle + antialiasing
@@wangdennys Will do, thank you!
Great idea and video. I like your tester, but I am unwilling to sign up for another e-newletter/service to get it. So I'll have to continue using other testers. Sorry about that, but I am done signing up for stuff!!!!
Singing up for what?
The tester is available for free on cults3d.
This test is amazing, but with the elegoo saturn 3 ultra , with different exopusures print perfectly the test, maybe is the acf, any idea? Or suggestion?
Hi, do I need to increase exposure when printing something bigger like on the Mega 8k?
All i can say is try it first without increase.
@@wangdennys thanks, are you still active on patreon? can I ask more questions there or are you more active here? thanks for your help sir
@@zedabyu i still active on patreon
But usually prefer my social media for faster response.
Wonderful video sir! Keep up the great work! Can I please find out where you purchase the resin print of Bob Odenkirk? Could you please send me the link? Would love to purchase that sculpt. Thanks again for all the great videos!
Hey @dennys wang your videos are increadible. My photon mono 4k arrives next week and I have watched most of the videos you have done on it. Im not sure if I have missed it anywhere but how do you decide what exposure power to use?? I saw in one video you were playing with 60% and then another 30%. Whats the thinking behind this
Hi Dennys, how are you? Thank you for your videos with all that tests. It helped me lot. Am I correct that you use supe rlube to treat FEP? Please correct me..Am I understand right, that you apply superlube to cleaned and dry fep foil and then wipe dry? Then you fill the tray with resin and print your test prints? Thank you for your answer. Best regards Daniel
I never suggest to lube fep with anything.
Lube only leadscrew and rail
@@wangdennys Thanks for the reply and correction. I misunderstood and preferred to ask. 🙈☺️
For the delamination you mean you just leave the print on the plate for 1 hour and wait to see if it delaminates? Or can you remove it for the plate and wait 1 hour before cleaning and/or curing?
I just leave it.
very helpful! of the parts I print, I make a dash panel for 1/24th scale race car models; I have issues with them warping after printing and curing. They are about 80 mm x 35 mm x 1 mm and print horizontally at 44.5°. I cure 1 minute/side after cleaning and they come out clean, but warp after some hours or days, even if they are printed at 90°. Do you have suggestions? Thanks
I print some object flat with phrozen aqua grey 8k resin
And not experience any warping.
Maybe yoy can try it.
@@wangdennys I'll test some flat to see it it helps, but I also had this issue with thin parts with my Formlabs printer also
Does anyone know where to get the files for the head sculpts? I really LOVE the look of them! :o
The video was super helpful, thank you so much!
What resin do you use to print these? theres zero sheen or shine on any of them. Mine always have a glossy sheen to them. no matter how much I clean or cure them-
May I know if you use lubricant on the FEP sheet? If you do, do you use the same super lube or something else? Thanks
I never use lube on fep.
It's all about correct setting.
Take your time tuning your printer.
I had a suggestion. make your own website for the group.
I dont know how to make website
What's going on with the little finger nail? Is it resin printed? 😂
LOL. YES!