2001-2005 Toyota Camry complete transmission flush
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- This is the same way we did on our Honda Accord complete transmission flush. We used Type IV for the Toyota Camry, but you can also use the Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF.
Tools:
amzn.to/2awcRDO 3/8 ratchet
amzn.to/2aZ8Zvi 3/8 9" hose extension
amzn.to/2btKbQd 1/4 10mm deep socket
amzn.to/2awcdGr Flat head screw driver
amzn.to/2aweq4t Pliers
amzn.to/2awbSn5 Drain pan
Parts:
amzn.to/2N3tJsi 3 Gallons of Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic ATF
or
amzn.to/2C3HoeC 12 quarts Toyota Type IV
Torque specs:
8 ft. lbs - plastic under panel
like and share this video!
If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to leave comments on our FB page.
Like us on Facebook
bit.ly/nutzabou...
and SUBSCRIBE!
bit.ly/NutzAbou...
Good job but I would not wait for sputtering. I would use a better clear jug (marked for quarts) or something so I could turn car off at 1-1.5 quarts maximum . This also lets you keep better track of how much has been removed throughout the whole process. Also drain the pan and replace that fluid which will make the remainder off and on cycles go quicker. Lastly get the line off the external cooler ( if your car has one like many Toyotas) so that that will receive new fluid too. Great job
This is a good video, and a far superior transmission service than a simple drain and fill. There are a few points brought up in the comments that have validity.
1. The idea that this guy ran his transmission dry; not really a valid statement from a damage or consequences perspective. However for the truly obsessive compulsive, and I feel your pain as I am one, you simply cut the engine BEFORE the cooler line blows bubbles. You could be really obsessive and run the engine for a set number of seconds, kill the motor, add fluid, and repeat, until the fluid runs clear red, or whatever color the new fluid is. Been there done that. The method shown here in this video simply consumes less new fluid because you are diluting less old fluid.
2. The idea that there is still old fluid throughout the valve body; a valid point. For THIS transmission service, or ANY, the wheels don't need to be removed. This vehicle is front wheel drive, so it wouldn't drive off the jack stands with the front wheels off, but Drive up ramps are a far safer, or stated in a different way to avoid the idiot factor, jack stands should not be used to get the front end up in the air to do the following procedure. Jack stands are simply less stable and more sensitive to placement and vehicle movement from engine vibration and getting in and out of the vehicle. Simply run the transmission through the gears with your foot firmly depressing the brake pedal each time you run the engine to pump oil. Please don't be an idiot here...ramps or jack stands, front or rear wheel drive, you can still drive off both of them. Keep your foot on the brake while going through the gears. Go through the gears quickly each time, and after a number of cycles of this procedure, you will get clean oil throughout the valve body.
3. The idea of changing the strainer and pan gasket. This one explains why so many asked about THIS vehicle's mileage. The more experienced professional mechanics go from mileage and leakage when it comes to removing the pan first, and or changing the filter, or strainer in this Camry's case. For vehicles with actual filters, changing the filter is important, because a plugged filter definitely starves the transmission of oil and minute clutch pack material is constantly wearing off during vehicle driving. Strainers however are different, because they rarely plug and experienced mechanics will go more from mileage, meaning high mileage, like above 160,000, and if the pan is actually starting to leak. Don't break a good pan seal. For that matter, if a strainer is plugged, you've had plenty of large clutch material come loose, and you have a very worn clutch pack.
Hey trying to do this myself, so if I have an automatic Camry, as I’m draining do you suggest I move through park, reverse, neutral drive 2 etc and back down every time I flush, nice and slowly with foot on the break to make sure I get it all out, and just to confirm, cut it off before bubbles to ensure I don’t do any damage? Car noob, but want to do this myself with the help of my gfs, dad who has worked on a few cars over his years. Seems simple enough but would rather get mostly everything out and do no damage. If I have to use a little extra fluid that is no biggy to me. Your response would be greatly appreciated :)
@@SirPokemonX Short answer is Yes, run through the gears each time you run the engine, because this whole process revolves around diluting the old old to the point of essentially making the oil new. When the process is started, there is old oil throughout all the fluid channels and components. Since the transmission oil pump draws fluid from the sump, and you are adding fluid TO the sump, the pump pushes a mixture of old and new fluid through the system, which will only get pushed through all the channels and components IF they are actuated by the gear selector lever, since the vehicle isn't going to go through the gears automatically, it's on ramps or jack stands and stationary.
Old OIL, not old old.
Been doing this method forever....works very well. The trick is to be ahead of the fluid coming out and have a container that you can actually see how much is going out vs in. It's ok to be over or equal, but u dont want to be low as can hurt pump....
From other youtube channel, never run out transmission dry. Use pump to pump in new trans fluid. At same time draining. Figure out which hose line is draining/output, catch fluid with pan. Put new trans fluid at input hose line using pump. You need to rig up hose connection for this job.
If you don't cycle through the gears as you put in new fluid, won't you still have old fluid in the clutch pack piston assemblies?
The Valvoline MaxLife works fine in these Toyotas but the Valvoline Import is closer to the more thick viscosity of the OE T-IV that they used in them. You typically have to order it. I would use Valvoline Import or Amsoil ATF in lieu of the Type IV, personally.
I also would be adding fluid to the trans as it is being pumped out to the cooler line. You still get a quality flush that way and only lose out on a bit of extra required fluid without risking running your trans dry.
You took 5 quarts of the transmission and fill with 12 quarts, its magic
M Ridware we’re automotive magicians 🤷🏻♂️
Because he replaced the fluid 3 times - its called 3 drain process ,I recommend to drive 10 mil between each drain( in the city so the trans shifts all the gears) to make sure to get rid of all metal shavings , that way you extend it your transmission life, its better and safer then transmission flush...Thx.
marioamelia1 - you obviously don't know what he is accomplishing here. No you don't want to drive in between the drains and fills - you want to do it just like he did it. Turn off the car, add and then turn on again repeating. If you drive around you will mix all the old and new fluids. What he is doing is removing old fluid by draining it right before the return to the pan. That way all the old fluid gets removed from the torque converter etc. once the fluid starts to look new - i.e. 3 repeats or so which is the capacity of the entire system - he is done. Doing it the way you mentioned is a traditional drain and fill but this technique gets the vast majority of the fluid out all at once
@@condor5635 a flush is a much more aggressive method versus drain and fill. Personally I only do drain and fill
@@guidedbygreen1480 because it's all you need.
Thank you for you about the best explanation and does this process has risk for. automatic move of transportation
Hi man! Next time you have to put the tyre beside the jack stand. Be careful!
Agree, safety first.
Gonna be doing sister's 2004 Toyota camry xle v6. All fluids, sparkplugs ruthenium ngk plus timing belt , water pump with all related aisin kit.
What was the mileage on it ??
What about the transmission filter ?
Even if it is a mesh one it should be cleaned or changed.
Other than that good informative video.
No need to change.
@@letmethinkvit’s better to change it as it gets clogged up with transmission clutch particles and the magnets need to be cleaned as well.
You are suppose to change the filter if this car gas a transmission and clean the magnet and dirt load
I wonder if his transmission failed after this. It was running with no fluid 3 times.
Dasdfjkl he didn’t drive it at all and it wasn’t on for that long. Plus there’s always fluid in the torque converter. I’m sure it’s fine/
My bubble headed mechanic did a transmission fluid change, but didn't screw it tight. So all the fluid leaked and I brought it back to him after few days b/c it wasn't running right. Even though my car was w/o transmission fluid for few days, it ran just fine after that dumb fix. I'm just saying that, cars are able to take a bit more abuse than our sensitive inclinations.
Why do people use pumps to pump tbe trans fliud out?
Synthetic vs conventional, aftermarket vs OEM. The most heated car debates on the internet...I there's no way of knowing which is better unless you run one for a LONG time on a car 250k miles and up...I wish there was more long term data on it.
'Synthetic' really just means a different base oil. I'd go for OEM Toyota fluid only.
@@MattExzy OEM Toyota is good, but Amsoil Signature Series cannot be beaten, it uses 100% Synthetic *base oil* and is a Type 4 PAO fluid versus the Type 3 "synthetic" ATF's which are actually not true 100% Synthetic..it is all I use in my '02 Camry and im going on 318k miles, 50k miles/year city driving
The bonus fun round is:
removing the pan
And also Replace filter- which is a simple pull off push on
And clean interior of pan the magnet and add a new pan gasket
The fun includes:
2-4 pan bolts are pinned up against the driver side frame rail with no clearance to remove
I had to remove a motor mount and lift that side slightly to gain the clearance to remove several pan bolts 2005 2.4 SE auto
Good times-
I too only use Toyota trans fluid
Seems ok?
I agree
The radiator hose clamp is wrong, not spring loaded, can cause leak. I guess drain and refill is sufficient if it is done every 60k miles
Hi, thanks for the video. At the end, you didn't show sputtering. Should the last time sputter, or you estimated when to stop?
I think he was just waiting until the color turned to the newer brighter color of new trans fluid. Everytime you flush it, you should, as he said, wait for the sputtering, but keep an eye out for when it turns to the brighter color. When it does, you are done flushing it and you can close the bottom and fill it to the correct level. Let me know if I didn't fully answer your question. Hope this helps!
Don't you change the filter?
When your engine is hot check the dip-stick. I think you meant "when your transmission is at operating temperature".
2009 Camry le stick shift. Haynes manual doesn't have all info for it. Dealer said there aren't too many of them. I guess I gotta make my own videos for some stuff.
Wow you are so lucky!
I never knew that you can get Camry with manual transmission.
I have Corolla 2006 and Yaris 2010 with 5 speed manual transmission.
Manual transmission is excellent for fuel economy,it's totally reliable and it needs just a little bit of maintenance.
I assume it is North American model (XV40) with 2.4 L (2AZ-FE) engine and 5-speed manual transmission (E351).
Gear oil capacity is : 2.6 qt. (2.5 Liters or 2.2 Imp. qt.)
Gear oil type is : API GL-4 or 5
Recomended gear oil viscosity is : SAE 75W-90 .
I prefer to replace fluid roughly every two years. I like to use synthetic fluid like Castrol Syntec SAE 75W-90. My new favorite transmission fluid is Motul (GEAR 300 100% Synthetic) or Motul (MOTYLGEAR 75W-90).
Specified torque for oil drain and fill plugs is : 29 ft-lbf or 39 N-m.
I use Toyota (OEM) aluminum washers.
I hope that your transmission comes with new type of plugs which uses 10 mm Hex head instead of 24 mm (or 15/16") socket.
Broj 1 i have an 04 Corolla S with manual 5 speed gearbox 😊
It shouldn't be waste your new fluid if you drain oil using drain plug then flush it later. It take around 8 liter.
Best one. Thanks
Nice Job!!
How do you know what line is supply to radiator and what line is return from radiator?
Mike Mexico take out both and put both ends in the pan. Turn car on, shift to N and some cars to P. The pipe that shows fluid is the in.
@@ninevehofgenesis4155 Thanks appreciate your reply
Dont change the filter ?
lol. No need change filter at same time unless brown colour from ATF.
Good work👍
Asking for problems , esp, if u waited too long,
No problem ... transmission is in neutral.....only pump is working which is fine
Wont this damage the transmission
How many miles did this car have ?
The fluid looks good.
Thanks for sharing, but I am concerned you would run a trans even slightly low on fluid and to top it off you did not change the filter. Isn't there a filter in this unit?
No need to change filter on these vehicles. You don’t have to run it till it’s low on fluid, you can turn on the vehicle and turn it off immediately before it sputters off if you want to be careful with it.
This is not recommended. Always do a Drain and fill only ! Never a flush .... goggle it
This is not a flush! A flush requires a machine to pump new fluid into the transmission. This is still a drain and fill, the only difference is that the car is pumping out the old fluid.
Can one do same flush for a crv ? Will appreciate
Hi, when start the engine, gear position is on P or D position? Is it ok to run torque converter empty?
Gear in P. Don’t run the torque converter dry, or else it’ll damage it.
How much transmission fluid did you pour until it came out red again
We used 12 quarts. 8 to clear, and 4 to keep on the pan
please show camry 2011 because there is no dip stick. Show detail with vdo step by step
a shop will have to do it unless you have some very good mechanic skills.
@@Rob-kv3ry Nah, if its anything like a KIA you can do it in your driveway; just gotta get the car level and find the overflow/level check bolt.
@@Rob-kv3ry i did it using your info, all good now
Is the cooler line you disconnected and then to which you connect another line the inlet or outlet line? In other words, is the line you disconnected the line going to the transmission or going to the radiator?
To the supply line to radiator (cooler)
Nyan Htet Wrong - it is the outlet line FROM the radiator which goes immediately back TO the transmission. This is the 'end of the run' so to speak which is why doing it 3 times gets the vast majority of the old fluid out. It is the closest line going back into the transmission to which you can tap into.
How many quarts is needed for complete auto trans flush on 2091 Camry?
we'll have to wait and see if they're still making the camry in 2091
I have a 2gr fe and I swear it’s the dirtiest I’ve ever seen after 30k
Hi, does this flush also takes out the old oil from torque converter as well? How can I remove old fluid from Torque converter?
yes, this will remove old fluids in the torque converter as well.
Is the valvoline max life better than toyota ws atf and what about the amsoil oil? And this is for a 2014 camry
What this ignores is the fact that the cooled fluid doesn't drop into the pan, but goes to lubrication of the few gears that are in there. Ignorance is blisters.
Nice video. I have a 2004 Camry 3.3L 250k miles (Still Going Strong) and all I do is drain the transmission pan every 3rd oil change and add 3.7qts.
I drain it. Blow air through it, (low pressure air) (blow air into fill tube) until it stops coming out (dripping) Add 3.5qt. Go for a drive go through all the gears. Usually i add, and it comes to 3.7qts. Just like the owners manual said.
Use Toyota oil.
So I flushed it and put that castrol import first. It took 3.5 q. Then a week later I did a itemitsu t-4 flush again and used 3 quarts ish. What’s your guys thought on the mixture or should I flush it again to remove the castrol import atf that I put. I heard it’s not good for Toyotas
Just use oem
So flush again till it’s mostly oem?
@@dantheman982 yes
Thank you 🙏🏼
How many qt did u put it back in at the end ?
man how come you never did a transmission flush video on a 2003-2008 corolla... I am trying to do it myself but I have no clue which on is the return line... Also.... why do some guys drain the pan fluid from the drain bolt before they flush the fluid from the radiator? Is that way more effective? Why did you choose to only do it the way you did in the video instead of first draining the fluid from the drain plug?
It's the drain and fill method, less aggressive than the one shwoed in video.
Yeah, it's definitely more effective to drain the pan before you do the flush. You can also clean off the magnetic drain plug. Still his method does a pretty good job of getting a lot of the old fluid out.
You want to find the radiator port where the fluid flows out with the engine running (fluid returns to the transmission pan). On my Sienna it's the top port.
Pretty cool stuff. Thanks for making that video. Quick question- I have a 2003 Camry automatic transmission since 2012. I never change the trans oil. Now, the oil is really black and smells like something burnt. When the car hits 55 mph and up, it does not shift. Do you think if I flush it at this point there is going to be any improvement? I do not want to cause more damage than what I feel is already there. Your answer is very well appreciated.
Thanks
If changing the fluid wrecks it, then it was already wrecked.
My brother had a similar issue with his '03 Taurus. At about 85,000 miles the car shifted out of overdrive on the highway and was stuck in 3rd gear with a blinking transmission light in the dash. I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, and filled with Valvoline maxlife(red bottle in this video). The problem was fixed immediately and It's been over 15k miles since then and it still shifts fine.
@@thebeetalls maxlife seems to be some good stuff. Ive used it in an 05 camry for over 140k extra miles with no problems.
@@Rob-kv3ry Yep, so far I've used it in a 2003 Ford Taurus, a 2011 Kia Sportage, a 2009 Acura TL, and a 2001 Toyota Camry. No problems in any of them.
02 Camry Se 2.4 140k used not sure if transmission fluid was ever changed should I try and change it this late?
How many quarts total did you use after flushing and then refilling trans?
We used 3 gallons or 12 quarts to flush the system. We used 8 quarts to flush through the system and saved the last 4 quarts to top the transmission off.
Would either cooler side work? Or is there a directional flow that needs to be followed ?
It’s one direction only lol. If one of the cooler isn’t coming out, then it’s the other hose.
@@NutzAboutBolts noted thanks 👍🏾
Hey man, is this pretty much the same as an 03 Avalon? Aren't you supposed to change the filter as well?
Also is stop-slip a good or bad idea? Great video thanks!
Yeah the filter should be changed too.
This is people have problems when they go to shops that just flush the system out.
The automatic transmissions where you can't change the filters are sealed ones like Honda, Ford and Mazda use.
They have small internal mesh filters you cannot change so it's important to change the fluid every 30 thousand miles on those because if the filters plug up your screwed.
This is why people with these type of transmissions install aftermarket external filters that capture a lot of material that otherwise would continue to flow and buildup in your transmission.
I recommend GTX TRANSMAX IMPORT fluid, valvoline sucks very cheap stuff. Anything GTX is bomb
Can you stick another line where it sucks oil into the transmission that goes to a new oil container? Like, can you pump old oil out and new oil in at the same time and stop when clear oil comes out?
Yes you can.
Some call it 2 bucket method.
There's videos out there like that.
Have you done this service?
Bad for transmission to do this
What about the fliter ??
It probably has screens inside the transmission
@@kennywalker9814 it has a magnet that attracts metal dust that wears from the transmission
Most Asian vehicles have screens as does this one
Ya what about the filter
Camry's have a coarse mesh and filter replacement is not absolutely essential. Question: How do you know you didn't just substantially drain what you just put in? Are you sure it was truly coursed through the torque converter first? Thanks!
just overfill it when you flush it, all of it is gonna come out lol
Nice Job. question: I have a 2002 avalon, on which I did a drain and refill. Now it appears to shift hard from N to D. Would you recommend to do this? Should I also change the filter?
Sounds like maybe the wrong fluid was used? That's what happened to my Lexus when I put the wrong fluid in
Make sure you use the Toyota brand ATF for your year.
@@guidedbygreen1480 Thanks!
I went a local repair shop to have the trans fluid in my 05 Camry changed at 100k miles . (This was 10 years ago.) His parts store where they get their parts asked "why?". He told me on the Trans dip stick it said "this trans fluid should never be changed." I saw it myself!! The dealer here locally wants to change it every 30k miles. More money in their pocket. My 14 Camry is a sealed transmission. It's not even listed in their Maintenance book. I think everyone on this site that is telling you to change it--- is either a mechanic or affiliated with a dealership. Under normally operating conditions, leave the dam transmission fluid alone!!
Nothing is lifetime. Fluids break down under heat and lose their chemical component. If you want to take that risk, do it at your own expense. I know Toyota do say WS (world standard) trans fluid is lifetime and doesn’t need changing, it’s been proven wrong and now, even dealerships and DIYer change the fluids.
@@NutzAboutBolts I agree, nothing is lifetime, fluid should be changed every 60k or 100k, I prefer 60k to be on the safe side.
Total Bull nothing last forever , my kia says its lifetime fluid or it never needs to be serviced, I change it out every 60k no issues whatsoever
It's actually the opposite, think bigger. They want your trans to fail so you buy a new car ... No fluid is lifetime, well lifetime as in the life of the warranty 😂😂🤣🤣
Interesting how they call it a lifetime fluid, but only warranty the transmission for 60,000 miles. That 60,000 miles is about the time the fluid starts to change color from red to brown.
Why do you need to flush it? It is illogical. Is the old fluid so destructive that all needs to be replaced at once? You have been driving with the old fluid, so it is not destructive, just not ideal. You just drain and refill. After doing this you repeat in the next engine oil change. So within 5000-7000 miles about 70-75% of the ATF will be new. This is enough for another 45K miles, I 'd think.
I agree. I'm going to do a drain and fill and probably the second or third time I will drop the pan and replace the mesh filter and clean the magnets 🧲
A flush is far too aggressive for me on the transmission
Hi, if I simply crack the drain plug open, then turn the engine on, would the fluid come out of the drain hole? Thanks.
You're referring to a drain an fill method. If you open the drain plug, it will drain out from gravity just like an oil change. (No need to run the engine, that will do damage) Simply drain and refill the same amount you remove.
zup man. just quick question. after the flush, how long will you feel the difference?
mikenth palencia you’ll never feel the difference. It just makes your transmission last longer. I just did it to my car, but in a little different method
@@deelarry2137 If it's been neglected you will certainly feel a difference. I did one yesterday and was amazed how different it was after just few mins driving. But you're right for well maintained vehicles you'll probably never notice.
Can I do this flush to a '17 Corolla CVT?
Sadly no, most CVTs need to be serviced by the dealership, or someone trained to work on Toyotas.
I dont know about that, but do note that CVT's use a different type of fluid.
Hi, is it OK to let torque converter empty of AT fluid?
Toyota fluid sucks. Toyota makes vehicles not lubricants. Valvoline makes lubricants.