NEVER Flush Your Car's Transmission Until Watching This!
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- Watch at proclaimliberty2000 the safest, easiest and most gentle way to flush your car's transmission.
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Thank you Red Forman!
Lmaooo
I thought the same thing before i saw your comment. I lost it. 😂😂😂
😂🤣😂
Good job Red!!
That name came to mind before I even opened the video lol
This is by far the most detailed and complete guide on doing this job. No steps left out. Excellent video.
I've been using this method since the 1990s. My local mechanic does it the same way.
One little tip to make things a little easier is to make a measuring container out of a gallon water bottle. Fill the empty tranny fluid bottle with water up to the 1-quart mark and pour the water into the gallon bottle. Mark the level with a magic marker. Repeat 3 more times so you have 4 marks. Now you can drain into the gallon bottle. The marks are easier to see, and you don't have to keep getting underneath. Plus, I drain 2 quarts at a time to help speed things along. You can save this gallon bottle and use it again with your next fluid change.
Thanks for the input. I want to do this on my daughters change. Keep on rocking.
Glass 2 quart milk bottle also works well.
Probably the best and very well explained video on how to service/flush trans fluid on UA-cam 👌👌 Hat's off to you sir and God bless you too 👍🙏
Before couple years, I used the same exact method to flush the CVT transmission fluid for my two Nissan cars. I also used Amsoil fully synthetic CVT fluid and replaced the paper filters. Thank you 🎉
What people fail to understand about flushing. If your transmission fluid is very old and dirty, you very well MAY DESTROY your transmission by changing the fluid. Period. No matter how gentle you do it. This is because trans fluid has a very high detergent content. Old fluid on the other hand has NO detergent because its long ago been broken down. Add fresh detergent rich fluid to your dirty filthy trans, and the fresh fluid does what its supposed to, it starts breaking down dirt and dislodging all sorts of crud and debris, which then floats around and destroys the internals, and after about 50-100 miles, your trans is toast. If you don't know the service history of the trans, and you still want to change the fluid, you'd be much better off by first pulling the pan and checking for sludge or shavings... if you see either, you are putting your trans in serious risk by flushing. If you still want to flush, then pour all the old fluid into a clean container, and filter the old fluid with a coffee filter. Clean the pan, add only ONE fresh quart, then pour all rest of the old (but filtered) fluid back into the trans. (less the 1 quart) Drive the car 1 or 2 miles, be sure and manually shift though all the gears, including reverse, get it up to around 45mph, then head back, drop the pan, check for shavings or sludge. Repeat... drain the mixed (new/ old) fluid again, run it all through a filter again, then pour it all back into your trans, but add 1 new quart each time you do this. The filtering of your old fluid every 2 miles will catch any debris being dislodged by the fresh detergent. Rinse and repeat until the fluid starts to get clean. Its a HUGE pain in the butt, and might take 2 days, but if you do this over and over, slowly easing the old out, and slowly introducing the fresh detergent, and filtering everything as you go, you stand a better shot at saving your trans. If your trans would have survived the flush anyway, then no harm is done by this process. But if you pour 5 fresh quarts of detergent into a dirty trans, you're asking for BIG trouble. On the other hand if your trans fluid is changed regularly, than this video is the best possible way to keep up with the preventative maintenance on your unit. (former fleet manager who has seen many a trans die from flushing)
well said, i learned that in my early days of wrenching,
if transmission has over 30000 miles on it drive it till it fails, in most cases cheaper in the long run..... R & R, teardown repair verses R & R replacing one
@@jbarron920 I have a 2001 Yukon XL 4WD with the 4L60E and trailer towing package with 245,000 miles on it. I fully change the fluid, filter and flush it once a year and have always used full synthetic oil. No problems so far and no rebuilds. Still going strong. The big win for me is that I ignore advice to never flush and always perform this full maintenance. 27 foot trailer and lots of running long trips and I still have smooth shifting and no whining. I do believe I will need new u-joints soon though. BIG item that everyone that tows should consider is putting in a transmission fluid temperature pickup. I drive the engine rpm's and fluid temperature. Keep it below 200 degrees Fahrenheit and always gear down when climbing hills. Also, just because you go over a pass, do not upshift to OD as you go over the pass. Leave it in 3rd until the trans fluid temperatures drop off from peak. The rpm of the pump shaft governs the fluid speed going through the cooling system and if it drops to lower rpm then the fuild cooling slows down. I can literally watch the temperature of the fluid climb in front of my eyes if I upshift instead of leaving it in 3rd and gradually let it cool down then upshift as needed for the road grade. This worked to keep a rebuilt 700R4 in my old Suburban working also. Still have it but only for trips locally.
@@jbarron920 I disagree completely. A tranny with 30k miles on it is still breaking in.
Great video Sir. I’ve done the B&G transmission flush about 100,000 miles ago, and it’s time again, this time I will flush it myself. I’ve got 238000 miles and the transmission fluid doesn’t look really bad at all, but I know it is time, along with the rear differential. Unfortunately I have to rebuild my A/C system because my compressor went out, I’m in Houston and it’s kinda a priority lol. I’m broke with the gas situation, but always believe in Jesus my brother, I’m really lost with everyone going crazy. Keep the faith, Jesus Christ is the source. I just can’t imagine it getting any worse but the Bible prophesized it would. May God help us all.
Mark Martin. I rebuilt the AC system on an old Toyota Camry. I bought a vacuum pump and gauge set. Maybe you can borrow these tools. Job is not that difficult. Pulled the alternator to access the compressor. Evacuated new system under 28 inches mercury for an hour. R134a system.
@@marccrotty8447 that's very thoughtful thanks. I usually just pay deposit orielly for vacuum pump and get deposit back. The news lately has been terrible, I don't even watch it anymore. Take care and thanks again for the offer. We really need to help and love each other to change our world, I have deep seated trust issues I struggle with every day but Christ is our answer to everything, go in peace my brother.
@@markmartin3152 I did not know vacuum pumps could be borrowed. I have borrowed other tools from Advance Auto. I am committed to my Catholic faith and believe all that the Church teaches. The goal is to get to Heaven. Thank you for your kind words.
One of the best videos for a DIY person to do a proper tranny oil change on YT. And I agree, do not remove the oil pan.
Most repair shops do not use a high pressure machine or back flush the transmission. Most shops I know use the BG machine which uses the transmissions pump to pump the fluid through the machine and it will automatically transfer the flow in the proper direction so there is zero chance of damage to the transmission. Your method works but takes time to do and can be messy.
Martin would these steps in the video also apply to a CVT transmission ?
Paul, I concur. Your testimony at the end of the video of the years you've been performing this PM procedure on your automatic transmissions is validation prue and simple. I've been using this method to change trans fluid for at least 18 years with no negative consequences. In fact have beat the service life expectancy in most cases. Through out the years there's been many nay sayers stating that flushing the system causes more problems than it solves. I'll call upon my aviation experience and say, change fluids and filters per the manual or sooner and fly the wings off of it and you'll make and beat the TBO, (time between overhaul) every time. Keep up the good work and Cheers my friend.
Thanks Randy! 👍😊
The flushes people have issues with are not these, its the ones done by the dealer with high pressure vacuum where it can lodge particles into other parts of the transmissions causing issues. This is simply just draining.
Thanks, though I “stay “. with OEM TRANS only ( MOPAR, GMC in my case)….
This “Signature series” Amsoil fluid is excellent choice by the way. Probably the best trans fluid out there.
Amsoil is over rated. For a Toyota just use the world standard fluid OEM.
That is exactly the way I do all my transmission flushes on all my vehicles and never had a problem to me I think it’s better than taking it to the dealer.
👍😃
Came back to watch again to make sure I didn’t miss anything cause it seems to easy , don’t over complicate this Jerry 😁
I like the way you showed me how to flush my transmission fluid without taking my car to the shop to do it. You made it look so easy. Step by step.
Why don’t you get 2 Buckets. Get One 5 gallon put new fluid in there and the other 5 gallon for the old fluid.
Use the other input line to take the New Fluid into the Transmission. You may need to add a in line pump to put new fluid in. It will pump in the New fluid into the Torque converter and all parts of the Transmission. the other line you are using already will take out the old fluid the same time into the other 5 gallon. Shift the Transmission into all gears and Neutral. Once you see the old fluid changing to the New fluid you’re done.
I have a 97 Chev Lumina, and I just changed the battery, and it was sitting idle for
1.5 years, and did not drive it. Changed the battery today, everything was great,
all interior lights went on, and she started on one crank. Took if for a drive, and
noticed this red fluid dripping out badly from under the car. It wouldn't likely be
power steering fluid, as you would get whining from the pump when low on fluid.
It's sort of reddish fluid on the ground, and smells a bit oily, and has a bit of body
to the fluid. After driving it for 5-6 miles and not knowing it was leaking until I
was about 3 miles into my drive, I turned back and headed for home. As I got closer
to home, and it was still leaking, it had "no power" whatsoever. I pretty much had
to coast about a city block to get it to my house, where it's now parked. It is a
rust bucket, but only has 50,000 miles on it, and it's a great utility car, for picking
up building supplies etc, and I'd like to keep it. When I took it for a ride, it shifted
smoothly etc ???
So, I was thinking, I could get lucky, and it may be leaking from the transmission
cooler lines, as your video explains ? I think these lines wouldn't be expensive. Also
my big leak, was coming directly from under the radiator, so it makes sense, Also
the leak could be coming from the drain plug, at bottom of transmission drain pan.
Maybe I'll get lucky :) and hear back from you as to what this likely is ?? If it was
just leaky seals or gaskets, the fluid wouldn't be heavily squirting out. It would
slowly drip out -- I would think ???
Most vehicles don't have a transmission oil pan drain plug.
Since I have multiple vehicles, what I have done is remove the transmission oil drain pan and filter, then let transmission drain for three days.
Clean the pan and magnet. Replace the filter, reinstall the drain pan. I even have a heavy duty reusable gasket.
Poured in four quarts of transmission oil, started vehicle, ran through the gears then added one quart at a time until filled. Ended up using eight quarts.
Haynes manual says drain and fill should be four quarts and dry fill should be between nine and fourteen quarts, depending on exact model and accessories.
I am not a mechanic and this is excellent information. I agree with you. I feel this is the same logic as doing a brake fluid flush...Genius! Thank you, well done sir...
brakes don't rely on the lubrication of the fluid to work. Its just compressing the fluid to actuate the calipers into the brake pads. NEW Oil and Tranny fluid will help lubricate surfaces that come into direct contact with Gears and other Mechanical assembly's and the cleaner or newer the fluid the better it will run freely and smoothly. I've never heard of a brake flush but coolant flush might help since it keeps the engine from over heating and that's a good thing but still would only be needed if there was a clog in a coolant line or in the radiator itself. Im not a mechanic that's just how i understand how things work and some experience I've had repairing and maintaining my vehicles.
@@Grant-H2Obrake flush is recommended about every 3 years or so bc the fluid deteriorates and attracts moisture. The higher performance fluids used today breakdown quicker.
I just add more as needed@@colinnicols5387
I know this procedure long time ago, but I never do it on my car. I think, I better start doing it now to save my transmission. Thanks for showing it though, it really helps.
Nice video. I'm getting ready to do my trans change and don't like the idea of leaving old fluid in. I've been told that flushing the transmission could cause problems, such as blowing out seals. Turns out they are 2 kinds of flushes. One like the one you did and the other is a power flushing, some times with a cleaner. I like your way, don't want to mix new clean fluid with a dirty one.
Have worked on. Transmission. In cars and trucks for over forty years Can say most of the trans I have worked on and fixed was when people changed. Their transmission. Oil. Just keep your. Transmission at the right Levi’s and keep your. Cooling. Fins cleaned. From over heating. And to keep your. Trans. Oil from becomeing. Burnt
Love the video. I always knew that Dad, from that 70's show was a car guy!
In fact, the way you performed is not really "flush the transmission" as other people talked about. Very safe. Nothing to worry about.
Good video. It is recommanded to remove the pan, when possible, to clean it from micro debris. After 240000km on my Toyota Corolla, the 2 magnets where really clogged. All the rest is really well described. Big thanks.
thank you. haven't done the change yet but just thinking of leaving 1/2 the old stuff in, doesn't seem right. I'm grateful I found this before starting.
I don't necessarily want extra work but reading comments about taking the pan off and cleaning makes complete sense
Agreed. I think the controversy stems from the shops over pressurizing with the auto-flush machines, or people running the transmission dry.`
Your info you say about the ATF is accurate, and you're right to flush the gentlest way possible. A couple important things to remember, I want to reiterate any flush you might want to do to your car works best on cars with only about 70,000 - 80,000 miles or fewer. But after a certain mileage, (certainly 150,000 or more) it's probably best NOT to try any kind of flush. Although I have owned a dozen cars with auto trans, some with over 100K miles, and did a fluid change (NOT a full flush) and never had an issue afterwards. There are many videos that explain why not to but they all boil down to "if it works don't fix it". The main reason is, there's a better than even chance a flush will kill a high mileage transmission due to the large amount of internal crud freed up so in such cars. Personally I just keep the ATF level up and drive the car as long as I'm going to, the car's most dependable miles are behind it anyway and there's no reversing that just by maintenance ex post facto if it hasn't been kept up all along.
Those videos are talking about a power flush, not this.
I don’t know but maybe the trans filter minimizes crud throughout the hydraulic system.
@@ScientistPrepper It doesn't hurt to have a trans with that gauze filter (my 2002 V6 Camry just uses a screen instead, but I just change the fluid using the drain plug and leave the rest of it alone!. But the filter can clog too. Also internal dirt is not the auto trans' worst enemy, heat is. ATF fluid runs very hot, so all ATF has an additive package to prevent the fluid from breaking down. But the additives in the fluid wear out (which is why all automakers that claim their car has "LIFETIME FLUID" are all Jimmy-big fibbers)! And that is probably the most important result of changing your ATF - even if you don't flush out every drop. The good fluid you did put in revitalizes the rest.
Be careful with this technique. The problem is that oil from radiator does not go directly to the oil pan where is your new oil is, it does go to the transmission components to lubricate and after goes dripping to the pan. By disconnecting return line from radiator you are not supplying lubricant to critical transmission areas and could damage it. What needs to be done is to connect clean oil via pump that will pump fresh oil to the return line. It is professional pump for transmission flush and it has pressure sensors to make sure the pump supplies the same pressure to the return line as the pressure transmission pump builds. I agree that by doing this will replace almost all transmission oil to the new one, but it needs to be done using specialized equipment. I am saying almost because there is still be old fluid it the components that only get activated when you switching gears.
Max. Well said. But notice he is replacing a quart at a time. The transmission is still within its operating range. Should be no problem.
Very interesting point and I get it. I’m not sure the timeframe we’re talking about matters. I’ve done this technique a couple of times and never had any issues. I only drain a quart and then turn off the car and repeat. I can’t imagine this small time frame and refilling with a quart would not suffice Doesn’t mean there isn’t things happening that I don’t know about. I generally just do the drain and fill every 20,000 miles with 2 quarts. This basically keeps the fluid as a whole, very clean. Disconnecting the return line is easy as well. Just takes a little more time and another person
I’m guessing, putting the new fluid into the return line as opposed to the dipstick hole would not work but I’ve never thought about that. That would address your concern
That's been debunked on multiple forums.
I thought this too, until i looked at a flow diagram, and saw that the pump sends to the transmission first, before entering the cooler. The cooler outlet goes to the sump.
that is the best at flushing video for toyota I have seen so far. I have seen about 10 of them as I am gathering information. Many thanks for such a clear instruction and for the common sense explanation, which I had on my mind. It is like a blood transfusion and letting the heart to repump it. If the blood, which is fluid is correct, only positive outcome is expected :)
Stumbled across this video while I was researching my new project car: a '77 Datsun 620 with a 3 speed automatic. These old Datsuns don't have a drain plug on the trans so it's either remove the entire pan or flush through the coolant line, as shown here. I chose the latter and, while time consuming, it was a very clean job - thanks!
AWESOME video, thank you so much for sharing the 'trade secrets' with us all, may you be BLESSED
Great video Paul thankyou for sharing your incredible knowledge on how to do it yourself fix on your vehicle you are the best at explaining things clearly simple and accurately thank God for people like you Paul you are the best I feel that some of the comments made here are from mechanics who are trying to disrupt or down play your videos trying to stop you from doing these videos or because maybe they're losing customers or money do not ever let that put you off the good thing you are doing they only doing that because you come out with the REAL TRUTH on how to fix it yourself and they want to stop you from doing this. Your videos are great PERFECT is the right term.
Good video. Better approach for me is to:
1. Attach an extension line to the radiator out-fall, into an opaque one-gallon waste collector.
2. Attach an extension line to the transmission "return-side", with a pour funnel.
3. Start engine, replacing equivalent drained with Fresh.
4. Replace waste container when full, and repeat until waste out-fall pours new fluid.
5. Check the dip-stick; or if "sealed", remove transmission "full-level" plug; -- and adjust as necessary.
Happy Driving!
I have done the same thing but I changed the metal screen. Cleaned any fine metal from the pan. I found I was missing a magnet. Then used Valvoline Maxlife ATF and I never had any problems with over 120K on my 2002 Toyota Corolla. I used about 4 (5 quart) Jugs, it went from black to the red of the fluid.
This is a genius way to do this and I use all Amsoil products in all my vehicles. Thank you for a absolutely awesome video on this subject.
👍😃
Amsoil #1
This method works great! I use it on 2000 Honda Odyssey and 2007 Honda CRV.
BMW cooling lines are more difficult to open so I repeat the drain&fill three times with a short drive between each. 3 drain&fills achieves >95% replacement of the old ATF by dilution, uses 15 quarts. Your method only uses 10 quarts. I use RedLine D6 every 50k in Hondas and BMWs instead of the lower quality OEM ATFs and the cars run better than new.
Don't flush if the vehicle is over 100000 mile, only flush on law milage vehicle otherwise just do a drain and fill.
Great video and clear instruction. Great job
Your explanation is clear as distilled water. I just subscribed to say thanks.
Clear and concise instructions... The best video I have seen... Thank you
I own this same exact vehicle and I can tell you for sure that it DOES have a removable filter in the transmission pan. Not just a screen. Drop the pan and change the filter after draining the old fluid. Just wasting time and money if you don’t.
Thanks for sharing..............FYI there are 3 magnets in the Transmission Pan that should be Cleaned; Even though you drained the pan, there is probably about a half quart of old fluid still in there - that you would have found if you removed the pan after draining it. It is worth the extra time to remove the pan, clean the pan and magnets and you might as well replace the filter(or Screen as you called it - they are not very expensive). Otherwise those contaminates will mix in with your brand new Amsoil Transmission Fluid. So after the pan has been drained, drop the pan, clean the pan and magnets, replace the filter, replace magnets and pan, then flush out the old fluid. If you are on a budget Valvoline MaxLife works great and so does Castrol Transmax (find the correct fluid for your car's transmission).
"If you do not know which cooler line to use that simply remove one of the two cooler lines and start the vehicle,,,," means that the flow direction is unimportant, doesn't? If the rubber line you removed is not outward, what is the consequence, suck in air?
You did good...was right to the point,very simple and informative. And not too long..
Simple and to the point! Thank you very much!
👍😊
Paul . Thank you for this video . I don't trust any videos but yours , there is no antics just straight info
The service schedule for my 2014 GMC Sierra called for replacing the transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 miles. After researching things online, I found many videos warning against the procedure claiming the loose metal particles on the fluid helps to hold the transmission together and removing them would ultimately destroy the transmission. Since I was at 95,000 miles and facing a 1,500 mile trip, I decided to have my dealership perform the expensive procedure. While I made it through the trip, my transmission failed just a few months later. Unfortunately, it cost me over $7,000 to replace it.
Great video. Even though some vehicles may only have a screen instead of a filter, shouldn't you remove the pan and clean it along with the magnets?
Thats right .. clean the pan too
@@eddyshikwambi9790 Okay, but it ran on the old fluid before you changed it. Doing a simple drain-and-fill, if there is a drain plug, is very easy, All of these Dr. Doom scenarios and complicated maintenance protocols might deter people doing any service at all. I've had two 2001Toyota Camry in the last four years. In both cases, I just did a drain-and-fill and didn't take the pan off . I had no problems. The are certain models where the transmission filter was prone to getting clogged up. Used to Happen frequently with Chrysler 904 and 727 transmissions. But that was decades ago.
If there is no problem, you don't need to drop the transmission pan if you're not up to it. I've even seen one model where you have to drop the valve body to change the filter. Not worth it unless unless you have reason to believe the filter is clogged.
The first Camry got wrecked and I got a settlement. It emphatically did not die on me.
Not a bad idea to drop pan and change filter on a newer vehicle, maybe around 20 to 30k as there can be debris from when trans built and put together and from trans break in....@anonymike8280
Great video! The only way to do it right! I've been doing this on multiple vehicles brands and never had any problems.
Ok,geniuses. Here is a quick refference how the fluid is circulating inside a trans.
Oil pan
Oil pump
Torque converter
Oil cooler
Valve body
All the shaft bushings,bearings and clutch packs
Back to oil pan.
Now,if you break the line at the cooler,you’re pumping the oil out the pan through converter,but you’re not sending any pressure back to valve body,bearings and bushings. It’s the same like changing engine oil via oil filter by removing it,and adding new oil to the pan on runing engine,but you’re not sending any oil pressure to cams,crank bearing and all the mechanisms that required oil pressure,because the loop is compromised Think before you do somthing stupid. To do it right,you’ll need an electrical oil pump,2 pressure gauges,regulator,and 2 buckets. I’m not going to dive in details,because if you did it the way this shows,you’ve done unnecessary mechanical damage to critical components by runing the trans shafts and valve body dry. Like i’ve said,think and know how it works before screw something up. Why do you think the shops have the machines,that detects the oil pressure coming out,and sends the same pressure of clean oil back into the trans? Unless there is a moron operating it.
Comments below,please.
@@Lrv6532 That is why you’ll need electrical oil pump with gauge and pressure regulator. The fluid will not get sucked in by return line on it’s own,you will have to send it in with the same pressure that comes out from trans oil pump.
Question. But if you're only doing it one quart at a time like he is, would it be a big deal?
That part about morons!!!😈???
@@koreyhannan9071 Well,i guess,you have a machine,and know how to use it,that part does not refer to you.
@@koreyhannan9071 It does’t matter quart or gallon at the time,you still don’t feed the important components with oil,you just circulate it from the pan over the converter to the cooling line. Now,i’m not stating that this way you will criticaly damage any parts,but you will certanly do unnecessary wear on them.
I think it is best to just drain and refill the couple of quarts or so every 10kmi or once per year or so. This will boost the detergents preventing sludging and its much easier too. Used fluid has particles from the clutch packs which helps to lessen wear on the clutch packs. When you do a complete replacement you lose the particles and may increase the rate of wear. Doing a partial replacement will retain most of the particles while preventing sludging. You might want to do a complete replacement if you want to change fluid types, but always change to a higher quality ATF with higher detergent and heat tolerance.
Every two to three years I drain the transmission pan and fill back up with fresh ATF. It doesn't drain it all but I've got 260K on my trans and zero problems.
Paul best video I have seem. First class all the way. Will try it today. Thank you so much. God bless you.
Did this on my son's 1996 Toyota T100 at 100,000 I just used a longer clear tube from the cooler line to a gallon jug I ran it til it filled the jug about half way or the stream coming out started to drop off just measured what was in the jug and poured in fresh fluid and started it up again and did the same thing over again until it ran clean that truck has over 350,000 miles on it with the original transmission
It depends, if the transmission has sludge accumulation and an internal filter like honda's, no matter how you change it, the cleaning properties of new fluid will wash off the sludge clogging your filter and leaving the transmission in neutral once it heats up, only option will be to drop and change filter, unless it has a pan then remove pan and change filter. And in cases of really beat up transmissions anyways, new fluid can make the clutch material to detach from the clutch plates and complete transmission failure will be achieved at that point. Needing replacement or complete repair of it.
I really like this method better than the drop and top method. Will do this on my Avalon, thank you sir.
Finally someone got this right! Too many UA-camrs do this prices through the other hose, thus leaving all the dirty fluid in the transmission cooler.
Thank you!
You are definitely one of the best teachers upon the platform. Thank you very much for your time. I have a 2007 Lincoln Town Car I've been told not to flush it. I was going to put on the aftermarket can shift paddle shifters and flush it and replace filter. What are your thoughts on this the car has 210,000 miles transmission is slipping a little, and I know it's overfilled but I don't know a good way to take the extra out thank you bless you ❤️🙏🏼🇺🇲
Use a syringe and some tubing to remove the extra. Overfull is bad for the transmission Also
Paul don't know how to contact you but pls pass this tip on
How to clean headlight lenses in less than 30 seconds
Spray with Cutter bug repellent and wipe off with a clean paper towel
You can use other spray like Off with same results
Been doing this for years and helping a bunch of folks
God Bless
Thank you very much sir
Useless for the inside on the lens though which is what gets dirty over time
God Bless you too.
NumberOneWithACoke 👍😊
It’s not really a flush since it’s still a gravity drain, but it makes sense that the torque converter be drained as well. This video makes sense to me.
I'm a woman about to try this technique because I know that it's time for my 2013 Hyundai Elantra with 91,000 mi on it. I've never had any work done to my transmission nor a transmission flush however my car Phoenix White is riding quite sluggish and welll its hard times out here, sometimes you just got to do things yourself!!! I'm going to borrow some tools and get it done wish me luck!!!!!
This works like a charm. stay blessed thanks for sharing
Very good info. You look like a younger version of the guy from 'That '70s Show'..Kurtwood Smith..lol
Good video. Very helpful.
You’re great on camera!
You could be a Sports Commentator or a Weather Man on the news.
It is better to pour new fluid in while you drain the old fluid at the same time, thus there is no moment when the transmission is lack of fluid.
uh.... no
Nice , better choice than paying $180 for a flush I guess.thanks
I was struggling to find the best way to flush, I think I found it, thanks.
Dude this is friggin awesome!!!!!! Thanks for doing this video!!!!!
You’re right it is awesome and you don’t have to worry about blowing out any seals like dealerships and shops do with their high pressure machines.
@@proclaimliberty2000 you
Suggest ONLY using OEM fluid and drain and fill only.
2 years later very helpful thanks.
My 1970 Dodge van had a drain plug on the torque converter!
Unless the fluid is black and/or smells burnt, there is no need to flush transmissions. Further, synthetic ATF will never break down due to temperature extremes.
This is the way. Instead of one quart at a time I put a clear tube on the return and keep adding fluid until i see new fluid. Then top it off.
The catch pan that you put under the line usually has graduation on the wall.
You don't have to go under the car with a tiny bottle, you know.
Plus, you can let 3 quarts out at a time, for example, or two, if you wish. It'll speed up the process. No harm will be done to the tranny whatsoever.
Also, (and I swear by it), put a can of Seafoam TransTune into the fluid, and drive for a couple of days with it, so that it soaks inside fir a couple of nights.
It will clean out every channel and passage inside the valvebody, and inside the solenoids!
Your transmission will be, literally, RE-BORN after that!
(Don't go with Seafoam inside the tranny for more than 3 days, though.
All the varnish and gunk will recombine back if you do that, since the effects of Seafoam will wither past 5 days inside.)
If you use Seafoam TransTune before the flush - your transmission will thank you!
Some newer Toyotas no longer have a cooler in the radiator but have a separate giant tuna can shaped (approx. 6 inches diameter and 2 inches thick) cooler near the transmission.
On a 2017 RAV4 it can be located near the top front of the transmission below the battery.
I have no drain plug, so,I suck out via dipstick type and do the same. Just do 3 drain and fills, with 20-30 miles driving in between. yeah, some new fluid is wasted, but a lot safer.
Nicely done ! Simple and straight forward. 👍
I like using the 4 qrt bottle and yes it works well usually do an oem filter around every 75k miles and then 4qrt oil every 30k miles it’s never let me down
Could you just do 2 or 3 drain and fills? Probably not as effective but cleans to a point no?
Agreed. Might be easier on the trans as well given the slower mixing of the used versus new fluid.
This has to be the best way to service an automatic transmission. Leaving half of the old fluid makes zero sense.
better than leaving 100% oil fluid
@@jason-things_to_do your point is totally off.
Um yes it does.. Talk to real mechanics. The old fluid has material from the tranny which is good for the TC and especially the clutch packs..the new fluid also rejuvenates the old fluid.. Filling the tranny with 95%+ new fluid could possibly introduce slipping and other issues. Especially if it's not done gradually or on a worn tranny.
@@whitegoodman7465
Bullsh’t. I just did a complete flush on a Camry ‘06 transmission and it’s working flawlessly
i think maybe you should call bs after about 1000 mls of doing it also it depends what the milklage is and last time is was done . if say its over 100.000 and not been done before you just got lucky pal .
i like the seriousness of the way you talk as you yell at us
I always use this method but I remove the cooler hose 1st then drain the sump n refill until I c clean fluid come out thanks for sharing
I knew that this is the way to go that you can change your transmission fluid and flush it the correct way awesome video thank you for the information brother
👍😊
I was thinking about doing it the same way except that I will use a big container and continuously pump and add fluid at the same time.
Won’t work. Fluid flow is faster than u can replace. Disaster waiting to happen
You could do that too. I have done it as you suggested and everything was fine and it is quicker, just done let the transmission run out of fluid.
Thank you this gives me confidence to change the oil on our 2011 corolla
The job done the correct way... The only way to do it.. I also over flush with a few extra quarts just to get ot clean clean
good way to do it , that's the way I do it if oil is really dark... oil is cheap tranny is expensive...
Eventually you have to change the screen and filter. Some are inside of the transmission housing that will remove much of the fluid.
Superb video. It's exactly what I was looking for. I will have the screen cleaned at a later date. Thank again.
Thank you for exposing that to it’s simple form. I now feel confident in flushing my bronco.
👍😊
Very good technique. My Option - change Trans oil every oil or every 2 oil changes for a while! Tks
well done sir very smart
Good job
Thanks again my friend God bless you 🙏
Gerard Donaire 👍😊
Great video, I have 2015 Kia Sedona atf sp iv, can I use Valvoline Max Life?
THANK YOU VERY
Thank you very much
My husband needs to replace all fluids in my car it was flipped but no serious damage. The only issue is both transmission and engine got water in there oil because it was in a ditch full of water. The car will start and run. 2006 Hyundai Sonata
Thanks
Thanks!