Before couple years, I used the same exact method to flush the CVT transmission fluid for my two Nissan cars. I also used Amsoil fully synthetic CVT fluid and replaced the paper filters. Thank you 🎉
I've been using this method since the 1990s. My local mechanic does it the same way. One little tip to make things a little easier is to make a measuring container out of a gallon water bottle. Fill the empty tranny fluid bottle with water up to the 1-quart mark and pour the water into the gallon bottle. Mark the level with a magic marker. Repeat 3 more times so you have 4 marks. Now you can drain into the gallon bottle. The marks are easier to see, and you don't have to keep getting underneath. Plus, I drain 2 quarts at a time to help speed things along. You can save this gallon bottle and use it again with your next fluid change.
I know this procedure long time ago, but I never do it on my car. I think, I better start doing it now to save my transmission. Thanks for showing it though, it really helps.
That is exactly the way I do all my transmission flushes on all my vehicles and never had a problem to me I think it’s better than taking it to the dealer.
Stumbled across this video while I was researching my new project car: a '77 Datsun 620 with a 3 speed automatic. These old Datsuns don't have a drain plug on the trans so it's either remove the entire pan or flush through the coolant line, as shown here. I chose the latter and, while time consuming, it was a very clean job - thanks!
Most repair shops do not use a high pressure machine or back flush the transmission. Most shops I know use the BG machine which uses the transmissions pump to pump the fluid through the machine and it will automatically transfer the flow in the proper direction so there is zero chance of damage to the transmission. Your method works but takes time to do and can be messy.
Paul, I concur. Your testimony at the end of the video of the years you've been performing this PM procedure on your automatic transmissions is validation prue and simple. I've been using this method to change trans fluid for at least 18 years with no negative consequences. In fact have beat the service life expectancy in most cases. Through out the years there's been many nay sayers stating that flushing the system causes more problems than it solves. I'll call upon my aviation experience and say, change fluids and filters per the manual or sooner and fly the wings off of it and you'll make and beat the TBO, (time between overhaul) every time. Keep up the good work and Cheers my friend.
The flushes people have issues with are not these, its the ones done by the dealer with high pressure vacuum where it can lodge particles into other parts of the transmissions causing issues. This is simply just draining.
Most vehicles don't have a transmission oil pan drain plug. Since I have multiple vehicles, what I have done is remove the transmission oil drain pan and filter, then let transmission drain for three days. Clean the pan and magnet. Replace the filter, reinstall the drain pan. I even have a heavy duty reusable gasket. Poured in four quarts of transmission oil, started vehicle, ran through the gears then added one quart at a time until filled. Ended up using eight quarts. Haynes manual says drain and fill should be four quarts and dry fill should be between nine and fourteen quarts, depending on exact model and accessories.
thank you. haven't done the change yet but just thinking of leaving 1/2 the old stuff in, doesn't seem right. I'm grateful I found this before starting. I don't necessarily want extra work but reading comments about taking the pan off and cleaning makes complete sense
Nice video. I'm getting ready to do my trans change and don't like the idea of leaving old fluid in. I've been told that flushing the transmission could cause problems, such as blowing out seals. Turns out they are 2 kinds of flushes. One like the one you did and the other is a power flushing, some times with a cleaner. I like your way, don't want to mix new clean fluid with a dirty one.
that is the best at flushing video for toyota I have seen so far. I have seen about 10 of them as I am gathering information. Many thanks for such a clear instruction and for the common sense explanation, which I had on my mind. It is like a blood transfusion and letting the heart to repump it. If the blood, which is fluid is correct, only positive outcome is expected :)
Good video. It is recommanded to remove the pan, when possible, to clean it from micro debris. After 240000km on my Toyota Corolla, the 2 magnets where really clogged. All the rest is really well described. Big thanks.
I am not a mechanic and this is excellent information. I agree with you. I feel this is the same logic as doing a brake fluid flush...Genius! Thank you, well done sir...
brakes don't rely on the lubrication of the fluid to work. Its just compressing the fluid to actuate the calipers into the brake pads. NEW Oil and Tranny fluid will help lubricate surfaces that come into direct contact with Gears and other Mechanical assembly's and the cleaner or newer the fluid the better it will run freely and smoothly. I've never heard of a brake flush but coolant flush might help since it keeps the engine from over heating and that's a good thing but still would only be needed if there was a clog in a coolant line or in the radiator itself. Im not a mechanic that's just how i understand how things work and some experience I've had repairing and maintaining my vehicles.
@@Grant-H2Obrake flush is recommended about every 3 years or so bc the fluid deteriorates and attracts moisture. The higher performance fluids used today breakdown quicker.
I have done the same thing but I changed the metal screen. Cleaned any fine metal from the pan. I found I was missing a magnet. Then used Valvoline Maxlife ATF and I never had any problems with over 120K on my 2002 Toyota Corolla. I used about 4 (5 quart) Jugs, it went from black to the red of the fluid.
Thanks for sharing..............FYI there are 3 magnets in the Transmission Pan that should be Cleaned; Even though you drained the pan, there is probably about a half quart of old fluid still in there - that you would have found if you removed the pan after draining it. It is worth the extra time to remove the pan, clean the pan and magnets and you might as well replace the filter(or Screen as you called it - they are not very expensive). Otherwise those contaminates will mix in with your brand new Amsoil Transmission Fluid. So after the pan has been drained, drop the pan, clean the pan and magnets, replace the filter, replace magnets and pan, then flush out the old fluid. If you are on a budget Valvoline MaxLife works great and so does Castrol Transmax (find the correct fluid for your car's transmission).
Great video Sir. I’ve done the B&G transmission flush about 100,000 miles ago, and it’s time again, this time I will flush it myself. I’ve got 238000 miles and the transmission fluid doesn’t look really bad at all, but I know it is time, along with the rear differential. Unfortunately I have to rebuild my A/C system because my compressor went out, I’m in Houston and it’s kinda a priority lol. I’m broke with the gas situation, but always believe in Jesus my brother, I’m really lost with everyone going crazy. Keep the faith, Jesus Christ is the source. I just can’t imagine it getting any worse but the Bible prophesized it would. May God help us all.
Mark Martin. I rebuilt the AC system on an old Toyota Camry. I bought a vacuum pump and gauge set. Maybe you can borrow these tools. Job is not that difficult. Pulled the alternator to access the compressor. Evacuated new system under 28 inches mercury for an hour. R134a system.
@@marccrotty8447 that's very thoughtful thanks. I usually just pay deposit orielly for vacuum pump and get deposit back. The news lately has been terrible, I don't even watch it anymore. Take care and thanks again for the offer. We really need to help and love each other to change our world, I have deep seated trust issues I struggle with every day but Christ is our answer to everything, go in peace my brother.
@@markmartin3152 I did not know vacuum pumps could be borrowed. I have borrowed other tools from Advance Auto. I am committed to my Catholic faith and believe all that the Church teaches. The goal is to get to Heaven. Thank you for your kind words.
Great video Paul thankyou for sharing your incredible knowledge on how to do it yourself fix on your vehicle you are the best at explaining things clearly simple and accurately thank God for people like you Paul you are the best I feel that some of the comments made here are from mechanics who are trying to disrupt or down play your videos trying to stop you from doing these videos or because maybe they're losing customers or money do not ever let that put you off the good thing you are doing they only doing that because you come out with the REAL TRUTH on how to fix it yourself and they want to stop you from doing this. Your videos are great PERFECT is the right term.
Thanks. After the flush, I then install an inline transmission filter to catch derbris as it wears. Ran a 3/4 ton Suburban out to 280,000 miles no troubles, towing regularly. Same with the Hydroboost PS and brake boost system.
Good video. Better approach for me is to: 1. Attach an extension line to the radiator out-fall, into an opaque one-gallon waste collector. 2. Attach an extension line to the transmission "return-side", with a pour funnel. 3. Start engine, replacing equivalent drained with Fresh. 4. Replace waste container when full, and repeat until waste out-fall pours new fluid. 5. Check the dip-stick; or if "sealed", remove transmission "full-level" plug; -- and adjust as necessary. Happy Driving!
Why don’t you get 2 Buckets. Get One 5 gallon put new fluid in there and the other 5 gallon for the old fluid. Use the other input line to take the New Fluid into the Transmission. You may need to add a in line pump to put new fluid in. It will pump in the New fluid into the Torque converter and all parts of the Transmission. the other line you are using already will take out the old fluid the same time into the other 5 gallon. Shift the Transmission into all gears and Neutral. Once you see the old fluid changing to the New fluid you’re done.
@@eddyshikwambi9790 Okay, but it ran on the old fluid before you changed it. Doing a simple drain-and-fill, if there is a drain plug, is very easy, All of these Dr. Doom scenarios and complicated maintenance protocols might deter people doing any service at all. I've had two 2001Toyota Camry in the last four years. In both cases, I just did a drain-and-fill and didn't take the pan off . I had no problems. The are certain models where the transmission filter was prone to getting clogged up. Used to Happen frequently with Chrysler 904 and 727 transmissions. But that was decades ago. If there is no problem, you don't need to drop the transmission pan if you're not up to it. I've even seen one model where you have to drop the valve body to change the filter. Not worth it unless unless you have reason to believe the filter is clogged. The first Camry got wrecked and I got a settlement. It emphatically did not die on me.
Not a bad idea to drop pan and change filter on a newer vehicle, maybe around 20 to 30k as there can be debris from when trans built and put together and from trans break in....@anonymike8280
Don't flush if the vehicle is over 100000 mile, only flush on law milage vehicle otherwise just do a drain and fill. Great video and clear instruction. Great job
Have worked on. Transmission. In cars and trucks for over forty years Can say most of the trans I have worked on and fixed was when people changed. Their transmission. Oil. Just keep your. Transmission at the right Levi’s and keep your. Cooling. Fins cleaned. From over heating. And to keep your. Trans. Oil from becomeing. Burnt
"If you do not know which cooler line to use that simply remove one of the two cooler lines and start the vehicle,,,," means that the flow direction is unimportant, doesn't? If the rubber line you removed is not outward, what is the consequence, suck in air?
Finally someone got this right! Too many UA-camrs do this prices through the other hose, thus leaving all the dirty fluid in the transmission cooler. Thank you!
Did this on my son's 1996 Toyota T100 at 100,000 I just used a longer clear tube from the cooler line to a gallon jug I ran it til it filled the jug about half way or the stream coming out started to drop off just measured what was in the jug and poured in fresh fluid and started it up again and did the same thing over again until it ran clean that truck has over 350,000 miles on it with the original transmission
I have a 97 Chev Lumina, and I just changed the battery, and it was sitting idle for 1.5 years, and did not drive it. Changed the battery today, everything was great, all interior lights went on, and she started on one crank. Took if for a drive, and noticed this red fluid dripping out badly from under the car. It wouldn't likely be power steering fluid, as you would get whining from the pump when low on fluid. It's sort of reddish fluid on the ground, and smells a bit oily, and has a bit of body to the fluid. After driving it for 5-6 miles and not knowing it was leaking until I was about 3 miles into my drive, I turned back and headed for home. As I got closer to home, and it was still leaking, it had "no power" whatsoever. I pretty much had to coast about a city block to get it to my house, where it's now parked. It is a rust bucket, but only has 50,000 miles on it, and it's a great utility car, for picking up building supplies etc, and I'd like to keep it. When I took it for a ride, it shifted smoothly etc ??? So, I was thinking, I could get lucky, and it may be leaking from the transmission cooler lines, as your video explains ? I think these lines wouldn't be expensive. Also my big leak, was coming directly from under the radiator, so it makes sense, Also the leak could be coming from the drain plug, at bottom of transmission drain pan. Maybe I'll get lucky :) and hear back from you as to what this likely is ?? If it was just leaky seals or gaskets, the fluid wouldn't be heavily squirting out. It would slowly drip out -- I would think ???
It’s not really a flush since it’s still a gravity drain, but it makes sense that the torque converter be drained as well. This video makes sense to me.
This method works great! I use it on 2000 Honda Odyssey and 2007 Honda CRV. BMW cooling lines are more difficult to open so I repeat the drain&fill three times with a short drive between each. 3 drain&fills achieves >95% replacement of the old ATF by dilution, uses 15 quarts. Your method only uses 10 quarts. I use RedLine D6 every 50k in Hondas and BMWs instead of the lower quality OEM ATFs and the cars run better than new.
Every two to three years I drain the transmission pan and fill back up with fresh ATF. It doesn't drain it all but I've got 260K on my trans and zero problems.
Your info you say about the ATF is accurate, and you're right to flush the gentlest way possible. A couple important things to remember, I want to reiterate any flush you might want to do to your car works best on cars with only about 70,000 - 80,000 miles or fewer. But after a certain mileage, (certainly 150,000 or more) it's probably best NOT to try any kind of flush. Although I have owned a dozen cars with auto trans, some with over 100K miles, and did a fluid change (NOT a full flush) and never had an issue afterwards. There are many videos that explain why not to but they all boil down to "if it works don't fix it". The main reason is, there's a better than even chance a flush will kill a high mileage transmission due to the large amount of internal crud freed up so in such cars. Personally I just keep the ATF level up and drive the car as long as I'm going to, the car's most dependable miles are behind it anyway and there's no reversing that just by maintenance ex post facto if it hasn't been kept up all along.
@@ScientistPrepper It doesn't hurt to have a trans with that gauze filter (my 2002 V6 Camry just uses a screen instead, but I just change the fluid using the drain plug and leave the rest of it alone!. But the filter can clog too. Also internal dirt is not the auto trans' worst enemy, heat is. ATF fluid runs very hot, so all ATF has an additive package to prevent the fluid from breaking down. But the additives in the fluid wear out (which is why all automakers that claim their car has "LIFETIME FLUID" are all Jimmy-big fibbers)! And that is probably the most important result of changing your ATF - even if you don't flush out every drop. The good fluid you did put in revitalizes the rest.
Some newer Toyotas no longer have a cooler in the radiator but have a separate giant tuna can shaped (approx. 6 inches diameter and 2 inches thick) cooler near the transmission. On a 2017 RAV4 it can be located near the top front of the transmission below the battery.
Be careful with this technique. The problem is that oil from radiator does not go directly to the oil pan where is your new oil is, it does go to the transmission components to lubricate and after goes dripping to the pan. By disconnecting return line from radiator you are not supplying lubricant to critical transmission areas and could damage it. What needs to be done is to connect clean oil via pump that will pump fresh oil to the return line. It is professional pump for transmission flush and it has pressure sensors to make sure the pump supplies the same pressure to the return line as the pressure transmission pump builds. I agree that by doing this will replace almost all transmission oil to the new one, but it needs to be done using specialized equipment. I am saying almost because there is still be old fluid it the components that only get activated when you switching gears.
Very interesting point and I get it. I’m not sure the timeframe we’re talking about matters. I’ve done this technique a couple of times and never had any issues. I only drain a quart and then turn off the car and repeat. I can’t imagine this small time frame and refilling with a quart would not suffice Doesn’t mean there isn’t things happening that I don’t know about. I generally just do the drain and fill every 20,000 miles with 2 quarts. This basically keeps the fluid as a whole, very clean. Disconnecting the return line is easy as well. Just takes a little more time and another person I’m guessing, putting the new fluid into the return line as opposed to the dipstick hole would not work but I’ve never thought about that. That would address your concern
I thought this too, until i looked at a flow diagram, and saw that the pump sends to the transmission first, before entering the cooler. The cooler outlet goes to the sump.
You are definitely one of the best teachers upon the platform. Thank you very much for your time. I have a 2007 Lincoln Town Car I've been told not to flush it. I was going to put on the aftermarket can shift paddle shifters and flush it and replace filter. What are your thoughts on this the car has 210,000 miles transmission is slipping a little, and I know it's overfilled but I don't know a good way to take the extra out thank you bless you ❤️🙏🏼🇺🇲
What people fail to understand about flushing. If your transmission fluid is very old and dirty, you very well MAY DESTROY your transmission by changing the fluid. Period. No matter how gentle you do it. This is because trans fluid has a very high detergent content. Old fluid on the other hand has NO detergent because its long ago been broken down. Add fresh detergent rich fluid to your dirty filthy trans, and the fresh fluid does what its supposed to, it starts breaking down dirt and dislodging all sorts of crud and debris, which then floats around and destroys the internals, and after about 50-100 miles, your trans is toast. If you don't know the service history of the trans, and you still want to change the fluid, you'd be much better off by first pulling the pan and checking for sludge or shavings... if you see either, you are putting your trans in serious risk by flushing. If you still want to flush, then pour all the old fluid into a clean container, and filter the old fluid with a coffee filter. Clean the pan, add only ONE fresh quart, then pour all rest of the old (but filtered) fluid back into the trans. (less the 1 quart) Drive the car 1 or 2 miles, be sure and manually shift though all the gears, including reverse, get it up to around 45mph, then head back, drop the pan, check for shavings or sludge. Repeat... drain the mixed (new/ old) fluid again, run it all through a filter again, then pour it all back into your trans, but add 1 new quart each time you do this. The filtering of your old fluid every 2 miles will catch any debris being dislodged by the fresh detergent. Rinse and repeat until the fluid starts to get clean. Its a HUGE pain in the butt, and might take 2 days, but if you do this over and over, slowly easing the old out, and slowly introducing the fresh detergent, and filtering everything as you go, you stand a better shot at saving your trans. If your trans would have survived the flush anyway, then no harm is done by this process. But if you pour 5 fresh quarts of detergent into a dirty trans, you're asking for BIG trouble. On the other hand if your trans fluid is changed regularly, than this video is the best possible way to keep up with the preventative maintenance on your unit. (former fleet manager who has seen many a trans die from flushing)
well said, i learned that in my early days of wrenching, if transmission has over 30000 miles on it drive it till it fails, in most cases cheaper in the long run..... R & R, teardown repair verses R & R replacing one
@@jbarron920 I have a 2001 Yukon XL 4WD with the 4L60E and trailer towing package with 245,000 miles on it. I fully change the fluid, filter and flush it once a year and have always used full synthetic oil. No problems so far and no rebuilds. Still going strong. The big win for me is that I ignore advice to never flush and always perform this full maintenance. 27 foot trailer and lots of running long trips and I still have smooth shifting and no whining. I do believe I will need new u-joints soon though. BIG item that everyone that tows should consider is putting in a transmission fluid temperature pickup. I drive the engine rpm's and fluid temperature. Keep it below 200 degrees Fahrenheit and always gear down when climbing hills. Also, just because you go over a pass, do not upshift to OD as you go over the pass. Leave it in 3rd until the trans fluid temperatures drop off from peak. The rpm of the pump shaft governs the fluid speed going through the cooling system and if it drops to lower rpm then the fuild cooling slows down. I can literally watch the temperature of the fluid climb in front of my eyes if I upshift instead of leaving it in 3rd and gradually let it cool down then upshift as needed for the road grade. This worked to keep a rebuilt 700R4 in my old Suburban working also. Still have it but only for trips locally.
Paul don't know how to contact you but pls pass this tip on How to clean headlight lenses in less than 30 seconds Spray with Cutter bug repellent and wipe off with a clean paper towel You can use other spray like Off with same results Been doing this for years and helping a bunch of folks God Bless
It depends, if the transmission has sludge accumulation and an internal filter like honda's, no matter how you change it, the cleaning properties of new fluid will wash off the sludge clogging your filter and leaving the transmission in neutral once it heats up, only option will be to drop and change filter, unless it has a pan then remove pan and change filter. And in cases of really beat up transmissions anyways, new fluid can make the clutch material to detach from the clutch plates and complete transmission failure will be achieved at that point. Needing replacement or complete repair of it.
I like using the 4 qrt bottle and yes it works well usually do an oem filter around every 75k miles and then 4qrt oil every 30k miles it’s never let me down
I knew that this is the way to go that you can change your transmission fluid and flush it the correct way awesome video thank you for the information brother
I have no drain plug, so,I suck out via dipstick type and do the same. Just do 3 drain and fills, with 20-30 miles driving in between. yeah, some new fluid is wasted, but a lot safer.
The service schedule for my 2014 GMC Sierra called for replacing the transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 miles. After researching things online, I found many videos warning against the procedure claiming the loose metal particles on the fluid helps to hold the transmission together and removing them would ultimately destroy the transmission. Since I was at 95,000 miles and facing a 1,500 mile trip, I decided to have my dealership perform the expensive procedure. While I made it through the trip, my transmission failed just a few months later. Unfortunately, it cost me over $7,000 to replace it.
Something doesn't read right about this comment. Please clarify b/c if I'm hearing u correctly; it sounds like you followed your owner manual's recommended service schedule to a "T" and it ended up destroying an otherwise normally operating transmission @ around 100,000 miles!?! Is that correct? Your comment was written earlier this year, too, so @ around 100,000 miles on a 10 year-old truck, that thing hasn't even been driven that much. Much lower than the national average at least. Sounds like a 1-owner vehicle...I mean, just about every vehicle's owner's manual will recommend alot of maintenance items @ 100k miles, including the auto. tranny fluid & filter change, but are you sure you didn't miss any of the previous recommendations to service the transmission? Most American manufacturer's recommend servicing the automatic transmission & filter every 30,000 miles. I find it hard to believe that GMC can't put an automatic transmission in their 1/2 ton trucks(or any in their lineup for that matter) that can't make it past 100k with regular maintenance...
Some like the 03-11 panther 4.6 autos have a service bulletin saying no flushing. This I don't consider a true flush where detergent is pressurized back through a system. This is more of a get all old out and new in service.
Got a 2010 town car but doing it this way I'm not so sure of especially as the tranny ages..putting 98% fresh fluid in there without it getting used to the new fluid.. Could potentially cause it to slip and have issues. I think keeping some dirty fluid in there by doing multiple drain and fills from the pan is probably the best bet for most cars.. Even if it's well maintained.
@@whitegoodman7465 Yes u can never get it all out. Some will stay unless it's a tear out, rebuilt, new etc. Bit I have gotten most of it out when tc has a drain, and u get the residual that stays at the tail. I've never it done with panther. I think the idea is pushing trash into a passage, clogging up the plate checks, etc. I've used the hose on the return low side to drain old, then pull pan and no mess, then refill. Idk how much comes out exactly. My pan holds 2 gallons. I'll be doing kine soon. I'll see what u can get out compared to total capacity. How many miles on urr 2010? A buddy of mines family ran a taxi service in NJ. His dad would buy panthers at min 200k miles, repair to standard if needed, serviced etc. He had alot go to 600k miles easy. What took a beating is tires, brakes and body from all the crashes. One went to 790k another commenter said he had 1 that was hitting 800k on same engine and trans, rears. Amazing what they can go. The rust is my only enemy. The salt and snow do a number on them. I also have a 99 Cartier with all original drive train but I service regularly.
@@whitegoodman7465 What I mean is I'd never flush ever. Removing all fluid then doing filter and fill is not a flush. Taking the cooler line off and pumping it out is just a way to get alot out and not have a mess when pan drops. My old TC had 394k miles and trans was good. The lady driving while texting wasn't so good. So cause she sucked at being a driver my Old car that I maintained like mad always at right times was not worth it for insurance. So I got trans and engine out and used it for another 100k plus and the transplanted car had the AC drain frame rot behind A arm so it wasn't worth the tear down and weld up. I've always had them last a long time. But I'm a stickler for always 3k oil change, 40k trans service and rear-end, etc. Always with Ford, Motorcraft or better parts. And I don't just fix any issues. I pro actively primer and paint PS lines, brake lines, oil and wax inside frame etc. The transplanted car was not mine and was just taken care of like normal ppl do, just drive it until it breaks. Hence why the drive train was shot. I'm cheap and I like ti buy it 1 time or as less as I can. I have a 8 yr old phone, mixer and blender from early 80s, etc. I don't like this planned obsolescence and throwaway way of life buying plastic junk made by toddlers in other countries. But there more than 1 way to have S3x, just cause I like doggie and u do it another way don't mean we're wrong. We get job done. That's what matters.
@@whitegoodman7465 Also I 4got most important detail, adding in ford friction modifiers. Not required but I'd bet my nut on them. Also doing Jmod has been my secret for long trans life. From factory they slip a bit for smooth shifting. I'd rather have long lige and harder shifts. It's cheap and u can do without taking tyranny out.
This is good practice for sure but very hard to accomplish with newer vehicles like VW/Audi that have no dipstick and fill tube on the transmission side and only have the level stem in the oil pan instead.
I pulled the pan on a Cadillac ATS and BMW M3, each with around 40k miles. Surprised at how much gunk was on the magnet and in bottom of pan. Both had replaceable filters. Used ramps, jack stands and 3 ton floor jack to secure lifted car. Very stable.
I own this same exact vehicle and I can tell you for sure that it DOES have a removable filter in the transmission pan. Not just a screen. Drop the pan and change the filter after draining the old fluid. Just wasting time and money if you don’t.
This is by far the most detailed and complete guide on doing this job. No steps left out. Excellent video.
Thank you Red Forman!
Lmaooo
I thought the same thing before i saw your comment. I lost it. 😂😂😂
😂🤣😂
Good job Red!!
That name came to mind before I even opened the video lol
Before couple years, I used the same exact method to flush the CVT transmission fluid for my two Nissan cars. I also used Amsoil fully synthetic CVT fluid and replaced the paper filters. Thank you 🎉
Love the video. I always knew that Dad, from that 70's show was a car guy!
I like the way you showed me how to flush my transmission fluid without taking my car to the shop to do it. You made it look so easy. Step by step.
One of the best videos for a DIY person to do a proper tranny oil change on YT. And I agree, do not remove the oil pan.
Probably the best and very well explained video on how to service/flush trans fluid on UA-cam 👌👌 Hat's off to you sir and God bless you too 👍🙏
This “Signature series” Amsoil fluid is excellent choice by the way. Probably the best trans fluid out there.
Amsoil is over rated. For a Toyota just use the world standard fluid OEM.
I've been using this method since the 1990s. My local mechanic does it the same way.
One little tip to make things a little easier is to make a measuring container out of a gallon water bottle. Fill the empty tranny fluid bottle with water up to the 1-quart mark and pour the water into the gallon bottle. Mark the level with a magic marker. Repeat 3 more times so you have 4 marks. Now you can drain into the gallon bottle. The marks are easier to see, and you don't have to keep getting underneath. Plus, I drain 2 quarts at a time to help speed things along. You can save this gallon bottle and use it again with your next fluid change.
Thanks for the input. I want to do this on my daughters change. Keep on rocking.
Glass 2 quart milk bottle also works well.
I know this procedure long time ago, but I never do it on my car. I think, I better start doing it now to save my transmission. Thanks for showing it though, it really helps.
Paul . Thank you for this video . I don't trust any videos but yours , there is no antics just straight info
That is exactly the way I do all my transmission flushes on all my vehicles and never had a problem to me I think it’s better than taking it to the dealer.
👍😃
AWESOME video, thank you so much for sharing the 'trade secrets' with us all, may you be BLESSED
Stumbled across this video while I was researching my new project car: a '77 Datsun 620 with a 3 speed automatic. These old Datsuns don't have a drain plug on the trans so it's either remove the entire pan or flush through the coolant line, as shown here. I chose the latter and, while time consuming, it was a very clean job - thanks!
Agreed. I think the controversy stems from the shops over pressurizing with the auto-flush machines, or people running the transmission dry.`
Most repair shops do not use a high pressure machine or back flush the transmission. Most shops I know use the BG machine which uses the transmissions pump to pump the fluid through the machine and it will automatically transfer the flow in the proper direction so there is zero chance of damage to the transmission. Your method works but takes time to do and can be messy.
Martin would these steps in the video also apply to a CVT transmission ?
Clear and concise instructions... The best video I have seen... Thank you
Paul, I concur. Your testimony at the end of the video of the years you've been performing this PM procedure on your automatic transmissions is validation prue and simple. I've been using this method to change trans fluid for at least 18 years with no negative consequences. In fact have beat the service life expectancy in most cases. Through out the years there's been many nay sayers stating that flushing the system causes more problems than it solves. I'll call upon my aviation experience and say, change fluids and filters per the manual or sooner and fly the wings off of it and you'll make and beat the TBO, (time between overhaul) every time. Keep up the good work and Cheers my friend.
Thanks Randy! 👍😊
The flushes people have issues with are not these, its the ones done by the dealer with high pressure vacuum where it can lodge particles into other parts of the transmissions causing issues. This is simply just draining.
Thanks, though I “stay “. with OEM TRANS only ( MOPAR, GMC in my case)….
Most vehicles don't have a transmission oil pan drain plug.
Since I have multiple vehicles, what I have done is remove the transmission oil drain pan and filter, then let transmission drain for three days.
Clean the pan and magnet. Replace the filter, reinstall the drain pan. I even have a heavy duty reusable gasket.
Poured in four quarts of transmission oil, started vehicle, ran through the gears then added one quart at a time until filled. Ended up using eight quarts.
Haynes manual says drain and fill should be four quarts and dry fill should be between nine and fourteen quarts, depending on exact model and accessories.
thank you. haven't done the change yet but just thinking of leaving 1/2 the old stuff in, doesn't seem right. I'm grateful I found this before starting.
I don't necessarily want extra work but reading comments about taking the pan off and cleaning makes complete sense
This is a genius way to do this and I use all Amsoil products in all my vehicles. Thank you for a absolutely awesome video on this subject.
👍😃
Amsoil #1
@@colinnicols5387Amsoil is number 1 in stupidly high/rediculous huge prices !
Nice video. I'm getting ready to do my trans change and don't like the idea of leaving old fluid in. I've been told that flushing the transmission could cause problems, such as blowing out seals. Turns out they are 2 kinds of flushes. One like the one you did and the other is a power flushing, some times with a cleaner. I like your way, don't want to mix new clean fluid with a dirty one.
that is the best at flushing video for toyota I have seen so far. I have seen about 10 of them as I am gathering information. Many thanks for such a clear instruction and for the common sense explanation, which I had on my mind. It is like a blood transfusion and letting the heart to repump it. If the blood, which is fluid is correct, only positive outcome is expected :)
Good video. It is recommanded to remove the pan, when possible, to clean it from micro debris. After 240000km on my Toyota Corolla, the 2 magnets where really clogged. All the rest is really well described. Big thanks.
Paul best video I have seem. First class all the way. Will try it today. Thank you so much. God bless you.
Came back to watch again to make sure I didn’t miss anything cause it seems to easy , don’t over complicate this Jerry 😁
I am not a mechanic and this is excellent information. I agree with you. I feel this is the same logic as doing a brake fluid flush...Genius! Thank you, well done sir...
brakes don't rely on the lubrication of the fluid to work. Its just compressing the fluid to actuate the calipers into the brake pads. NEW Oil and Tranny fluid will help lubricate surfaces that come into direct contact with Gears and other Mechanical assembly's and the cleaner or newer the fluid the better it will run freely and smoothly. I've never heard of a brake flush but coolant flush might help since it keeps the engine from over heating and that's a good thing but still would only be needed if there was a clog in a coolant line or in the radiator itself. Im not a mechanic that's just how i understand how things work and some experience I've had repairing and maintaining my vehicles.
@@Grant-H2Obrake flush is recommended about every 3 years or so bc the fluid deteriorates and attracts moisture. The higher performance fluids used today breakdown quicker.
I just add more as needed@@colinnicols5387
This makes sense! I have to do this for a 2006 Buick Lucerne CX.
You did good...was right to the point,very simple and informative. And not too long..
I have done the same thing but I changed the metal screen. Cleaned any fine metal from the pan. I found I was missing a magnet. Then used Valvoline Maxlife ATF and I never had any problems with over 120K on my 2002 Toyota Corolla. I used about 4 (5 quart) Jugs, it went from black to the red of the fluid.
Your explanation is clear as distilled water. I just subscribed to say thanks.
Thanks for sharing..............FYI there are 3 magnets in the Transmission Pan that should be Cleaned; Even though you drained the pan, there is probably about a half quart of old fluid still in there - that you would have found if you removed the pan after draining it. It is worth the extra time to remove the pan, clean the pan and magnets and you might as well replace the filter(or Screen as you called it - they are not very expensive). Otherwise those contaminates will mix in with your brand new Amsoil Transmission Fluid. So after the pan has been drained, drop the pan, clean the pan and magnets, replace the filter, replace magnets and pan, then flush out the old fluid. If you are on a budget Valvoline MaxLife works great and so does Castrol Transmax (find the correct fluid for your car's transmission).
Great video Sir. I’ve done the B&G transmission flush about 100,000 miles ago, and it’s time again, this time I will flush it myself. I’ve got 238000 miles and the transmission fluid doesn’t look really bad at all, but I know it is time, along with the rear differential. Unfortunately I have to rebuild my A/C system because my compressor went out, I’m in Houston and it’s kinda a priority lol. I’m broke with the gas situation, but always believe in Jesus my brother, I’m really lost with everyone going crazy. Keep the faith, Jesus Christ is the source. I just can’t imagine it getting any worse but the Bible prophesized it would. May God help us all.
Mark Martin. I rebuilt the AC system on an old Toyota Camry. I bought a vacuum pump and gauge set. Maybe you can borrow these tools. Job is not that difficult. Pulled the alternator to access the compressor. Evacuated new system under 28 inches mercury for an hour. R134a system.
@@marccrotty8447 that's very thoughtful thanks. I usually just pay deposit orielly for vacuum pump and get deposit back. The news lately has been terrible, I don't even watch it anymore. Take care and thanks again for the offer. We really need to help and love each other to change our world, I have deep seated trust issues I struggle with every day but Christ is our answer to everything, go in peace my brother.
@@markmartin3152 I did not know vacuum pumps could be borrowed. I have borrowed other tools from Advance Auto. I am committed to my Catholic faith and believe all that the Church teaches. The goal is to get to Heaven. Thank you for your kind words.
Great video Paul thankyou for sharing your incredible knowledge on how to do it yourself fix on your vehicle you are the best at explaining things clearly simple and accurately thank God for people like you Paul you are the best I feel that some of the comments made here are from mechanics who are trying to disrupt or down play your videos trying to stop you from doing these videos or because maybe they're losing customers or money do not ever let that put you off the good thing you are doing they only doing that because you come out with the REAL TRUTH on how to fix it yourself and they want to stop you from doing this. Your videos are great PERFECT is the right term.
i like the seriousness of the way you talk as you yell at us
Great video! The only way to do it right! I've been doing this on multiple vehicles brands and never had any problems.
Simple and to the point! Thank you very much!
👍😊
I always use this method but I remove the cooler hose 1st then drain the sump n refill until I c clean fluid come out thanks for sharing
Thanks. After the flush, I then install an inline transmission filter to catch derbris as it wears. Ran a 3/4 ton Suburban out to 280,000 miles no troubles, towing regularly. Same with the Hydroboost PS and brake boost system.
This works like a charm. stay blessed thanks for sharing
I really like this method better than the drop and top method. Will do this on my Avalon, thank you sir.
Good video. Better approach for me is to:
1. Attach an extension line to the radiator out-fall, into an opaque one-gallon waste collector.
2. Attach an extension line to the transmission "return-side", with a pour funnel.
3. Start engine, replacing equivalent drained with Fresh.
4. Replace waste container when full, and repeat until waste out-fall pours new fluid.
5. Check the dip-stick; or if "sealed", remove transmission "full-level" plug; -- and adjust as necessary.
Happy Driving!
Why don’t you get 2 Buckets. Get One 5 gallon put new fluid in there and the other 5 gallon for the old fluid.
Use the other input line to take the New Fluid into the Transmission. You may need to add a in line pump to put new fluid in. It will pump in the New fluid into the Torque converter and all parts of the Transmission. the other line you are using already will take out the old fluid the same time into the other 5 gallon. Shift the Transmission into all gears and Neutral. Once you see the old fluid changing to the New fluid you’re done.
Great video. Even though some vehicles may only have a screen instead of a filter, shouldn't you remove the pan and clean it along with the magnets?
Thats right .. clean the pan too
@@eddyshikwambi9790 Okay, but it ran on the old fluid before you changed it. Doing a simple drain-and-fill, if there is a drain plug, is very easy, All of these Dr. Doom scenarios and complicated maintenance protocols might deter people doing any service at all. I've had two 2001Toyota Camry in the last four years. In both cases, I just did a drain-and-fill and didn't take the pan off . I had no problems. The are certain models where the transmission filter was prone to getting clogged up. Used to Happen frequently with Chrysler 904 and 727 transmissions. But that was decades ago.
If there is no problem, you don't need to drop the transmission pan if you're not up to it. I've even seen one model where you have to drop the valve body to change the filter. Not worth it unless unless you have reason to believe the filter is clogged.
The first Camry got wrecked and I got a settlement. It emphatically did not die on me.
Not a bad idea to drop pan and change filter on a newer vehicle, maybe around 20 to 30k as there can be debris from when trans built and put together and from trans break in....@anonymike8280
Don't flush if the vehicle is over 100000 mile, only flush on law milage vehicle otherwise just do a drain and fill.
Great video and clear instruction. Great job
In fact, the way you performed is not really "flush the transmission" as other people talked about. Very safe. Nothing to worry about.
I used to do that in my former Ram. Now they make it harder on the newer ones with those thermostat bypass valves.
Have worked on. Transmission. In cars and trucks for over forty years Can say most of the trans I have worked on and fixed was when people changed. Their transmission. Oil. Just keep your. Transmission at the right Levi’s and keep your. Cooling. Fins cleaned. From over heating. And to keep your. Trans. Oil from becomeing. Burnt
Very good technique. My Option - change Trans oil every oil or every 2 oil changes for a while! Tks
paul your the best!!! direct to the point A+++ methods
Nicely done ! Simple and straight forward. 👍
"If you do not know which cooler line to use that simply remove one of the two cooler lines and start the vehicle,,,," means that the flow direction is unimportant, doesn't? If the rubber line you removed is not outward, what is the consequence, suck in air?
Finally someone got this right! Too many UA-camrs do this prices through the other hose, thus leaving all the dirty fluid in the transmission cooler.
Thank you!
Did this on my son's 1996 Toyota T100 at 100,000 I just used a longer clear tube from the cooler line to a gallon jug I ran it til it filled the jug about half way or the stream coming out started to drop off just measured what was in the jug and poured in fresh fluid and started it up again and did the same thing over again until it ran clean that truck has over 350,000 miles on it with the original transmission
I have a 97 Chev Lumina, and I just changed the battery, and it was sitting idle for
1.5 years, and did not drive it. Changed the battery today, everything was great,
all interior lights went on, and she started on one crank. Took if for a drive, and
noticed this red fluid dripping out badly from under the car. It wouldn't likely be
power steering fluid, as you would get whining from the pump when low on fluid.
It's sort of reddish fluid on the ground, and smells a bit oily, and has a bit of body
to the fluid. After driving it for 5-6 miles and not knowing it was leaking until I
was about 3 miles into my drive, I turned back and headed for home. As I got closer
to home, and it was still leaking, it had "no power" whatsoever. I pretty much had
to coast about a city block to get it to my house, where it's now parked. It is a
rust bucket, but only has 50,000 miles on it, and it's a great utility car, for picking
up building supplies etc, and I'd like to keep it. When I took it for a ride, it shifted
smoothly etc ???
So, I was thinking, I could get lucky, and it may be leaking from the transmission
cooler lines, as your video explains ? I think these lines wouldn't be expensive. Also
my big leak, was coming directly from under the radiator, so it makes sense, Also
the leak could be coming from the drain plug, at bottom of transmission drain pan.
Maybe I'll get lucky :) and hear back from you as to what this likely is ?? If it was
just leaky seals or gaskets, the fluid wouldn't be heavily squirting out. It would
slowly drip out -- I would think ???
It’s not really a flush since it’s still a gravity drain, but it makes sense that the torque converter be drained as well. This video makes sense to me.
Thank You, That Was An Amazing Educational Video, I Really Enjoyed It Thanks Again 😊
I was thinking about doing it the same way except that I will use a big container and continuously pump and add fluid at the same time.
Won’t work. Fluid flow is faster than u can replace. Disaster waiting to happen
You could do that too. I have done it as you suggested and everything was fine and it is quicker, just done let the transmission run out of fluid.
This is the way. Instead of one quart at a time I put a clear tube on the return and keep adding fluid until i see new fluid. Then top it off.
Thank you sir for your good advice. God bless you.
I was struggling to find the best way to flush, I think I found it, thanks.
Fantastic. Appreciate u taking tbe time to teach this.
👍😊
Dude this is friggin awesome!!!!!! Thanks for doing this video!!!!!
You’re right it is awesome and you don’t have to worry about blowing out any seals like dealerships and shops do with their high pressure machines.
@@proclaimliberty2000 you
Could you just do 2 or 3 drain and fills? Probably not as effective but cleans to a point no?
Agreed. Might be easier on the trans as well given the slower mixing of the used versus new fluid.
This method works great! I use it on 2000 Honda Odyssey and 2007 Honda CRV.
BMW cooling lines are more difficult to open so I repeat the drain&fill three times with a short drive between each. 3 drain&fills achieves >95% replacement of the old ATF by dilution, uses 15 quarts. Your method only uses 10 quarts. I use RedLine D6 every 50k in Hondas and BMWs instead of the lower quality OEM ATFs and the cars run better than new.
Very good info. You look like a younger version of the guy from 'That '70s Show'..Kurtwood Smith..lol
Every two to three years I drain the transmission pan and fill back up with fresh ATF. It doesn't drain it all but I've got 260K on my trans and zero problems.
Excellent video Sir.
2 years later very helpful thanks.
Thanks again my friend God bless you 🙏
Gerard Donaire 👍😊
Your info you say about the ATF is accurate, and you're right to flush the gentlest way possible. A couple important things to remember, I want to reiterate any flush you might want to do to your car works best on cars with only about 70,000 - 80,000 miles or fewer. But after a certain mileage, (certainly 150,000 or more) it's probably best NOT to try any kind of flush. Although I have owned a dozen cars with auto trans, some with over 100K miles, and did a fluid change (NOT a full flush) and never had an issue afterwards. There are many videos that explain why not to but they all boil down to "if it works don't fix it". The main reason is, there's a better than even chance a flush will kill a high mileage transmission due to the large amount of internal crud freed up so in such cars. Personally I just keep the ATF level up and drive the car as long as I'm going to, the car's most dependable miles are behind it anyway and there's no reversing that just by maintenance ex post facto if it hasn't been kept up all along.
Those videos are talking about a power flush, not this.
I don’t know but maybe the trans filter minimizes crud throughout the hydraulic system.
@@ScientistPrepper It doesn't hurt to have a trans with that gauze filter (my 2002 V6 Camry just uses a screen instead, but I just change the fluid using the drain plug and leave the rest of it alone!. But the filter can clog too. Also internal dirt is not the auto trans' worst enemy, heat is. ATF fluid runs very hot, so all ATF has an additive package to prevent the fluid from breaking down. But the additives in the fluid wear out (which is why all automakers that claim their car has "LIFETIME FLUID" are all Jimmy-big fibbers)! And that is probably the most important result of changing your ATF - even if you don't flush out every drop. The good fluid you did put in revitalizes the rest.
Superb video. It's exactly what I was looking for. I will have the screen cleaned at a later date. Thank again.
Some newer Toyotas no longer have a cooler in the radiator but have a separate giant tuna can shaped (approx. 6 inches diameter and 2 inches thick) cooler near the transmission.
On a 2017 RAV4 it can be located near the top front of the transmission below the battery.
Be careful with this technique. The problem is that oil from radiator does not go directly to the oil pan where is your new oil is, it does go to the transmission components to lubricate and after goes dripping to the pan. By disconnecting return line from radiator you are not supplying lubricant to critical transmission areas and could damage it. What needs to be done is to connect clean oil via pump that will pump fresh oil to the return line. It is professional pump for transmission flush and it has pressure sensors to make sure the pump supplies the same pressure to the return line as the pressure transmission pump builds. I agree that by doing this will replace almost all transmission oil to the new one, but it needs to be done using specialized equipment. I am saying almost because there is still be old fluid it the components that only get activated when you switching gears.
Max. Well said. But notice he is replacing a quart at a time. The transmission is still within its operating range. Should be no problem.
Very interesting point and I get it. I’m not sure the timeframe we’re talking about matters. I’ve done this technique a couple of times and never had any issues. I only drain a quart and then turn off the car and repeat. I can’t imagine this small time frame and refilling with a quart would not suffice Doesn’t mean there isn’t things happening that I don’t know about. I generally just do the drain and fill every 20,000 miles with 2 quarts. This basically keeps the fluid as a whole, very clean. Disconnecting the return line is easy as well. Just takes a little more time and another person
I’m guessing, putting the new fluid into the return line as opposed to the dipstick hole would not work but I’ve never thought about that. That would address your concern
That's been debunked on multiple forums.
I thought this too, until i looked at a flow diagram, and saw that the pump sends to the transmission first, before entering the cooler. The cooler outlet goes to the sump.
Thanks for explaining great job 👏
You are definitely one of the best teachers upon the platform. Thank you very much for your time. I have a 2007 Lincoln Town Car I've been told not to flush it. I was going to put on the aftermarket can shift paddle shifters and flush it and replace filter. What are your thoughts on this the car has 210,000 miles transmission is slipping a little, and I know it's overfilled but I don't know a good way to take the extra out thank you bless you ❤️🙏🏼🇺🇲
Use a syringe and some tubing to remove the extra. Overfull is bad for the transmission Also
Thank you this gives me confidence to change the oil on our 2011 corolla
Thank you very much very interesting and informative. ❤
Great video, I have 2015 Kia Sedona atf sp iv, can I use Valvoline Max Life?
What people fail to understand about flushing. If your transmission fluid is very old and dirty, you very well MAY DESTROY your transmission by changing the fluid. Period. No matter how gentle you do it. This is because trans fluid has a very high detergent content. Old fluid on the other hand has NO detergent because its long ago been broken down. Add fresh detergent rich fluid to your dirty filthy trans, and the fresh fluid does what its supposed to, it starts breaking down dirt and dislodging all sorts of crud and debris, which then floats around and destroys the internals, and after about 50-100 miles, your trans is toast. If you don't know the service history of the trans, and you still want to change the fluid, you'd be much better off by first pulling the pan and checking for sludge or shavings... if you see either, you are putting your trans in serious risk by flushing. If you still want to flush, then pour all the old fluid into a clean container, and filter the old fluid with a coffee filter. Clean the pan, add only ONE fresh quart, then pour all rest of the old (but filtered) fluid back into the trans. (less the 1 quart) Drive the car 1 or 2 miles, be sure and manually shift though all the gears, including reverse, get it up to around 45mph, then head back, drop the pan, check for shavings or sludge. Repeat... drain the mixed (new/ old) fluid again, run it all through a filter again, then pour it all back into your trans, but add 1 new quart each time you do this. The filtering of your old fluid every 2 miles will catch any debris being dislodged by the fresh detergent. Rinse and repeat until the fluid starts to get clean. Its a HUGE pain in the butt, and might take 2 days, but if you do this over and over, slowly easing the old out, and slowly introducing the fresh detergent, and filtering everything as you go, you stand a better shot at saving your trans. If your trans would have survived the flush anyway, then no harm is done by this process. But if you pour 5 fresh quarts of detergent into a dirty trans, you're asking for BIG trouble. On the other hand if your trans fluid is changed regularly, than this video is the best possible way to keep up with the preventative maintenance on your unit. (former fleet manager who has seen many a trans die from flushing)
well said, i learned that in my early days of wrenching,
if transmission has over 30000 miles on it drive it till it fails, in most cases cheaper in the long run..... R & R, teardown repair verses R & R replacing one
@@jbarron920 I have a 2001 Yukon XL 4WD with the 4L60E and trailer towing package with 245,000 miles on it. I fully change the fluid, filter and flush it once a year and have always used full synthetic oil. No problems so far and no rebuilds. Still going strong. The big win for me is that I ignore advice to never flush and always perform this full maintenance. 27 foot trailer and lots of running long trips and I still have smooth shifting and no whining. I do believe I will need new u-joints soon though. BIG item that everyone that tows should consider is putting in a transmission fluid temperature pickup. I drive the engine rpm's and fluid temperature. Keep it below 200 degrees Fahrenheit and always gear down when climbing hills. Also, just because you go over a pass, do not upshift to OD as you go over the pass. Leave it in 3rd until the trans fluid temperatures drop off from peak. The rpm of the pump shaft governs the fluid speed going through the cooling system and if it drops to lower rpm then the fuild cooling slows down. I can literally watch the temperature of the fluid climb in front of my eyes if I upshift instead of leaving it in 3rd and gradually let it cool down then upshift as needed for the road grade. This worked to keep a rebuilt 700R4 in my old Suburban working also. Still have it but only for trips locally.
@@jbarron920 I disagree completely. A tranny with 30k miles on it is still breaking in.
Great video 👍👍
Subscribed
Paul don't know how to contact you but pls pass this tip on
How to clean headlight lenses in less than 30 seconds
Spray with Cutter bug repellent and wipe off with a clean paper towel
You can use other spray like Off with same results
Been doing this for years and helping a bunch of folks
God Bless
Thank you very much sir
Useless for the inside on the lens though which is what gets dirty over time
Superb job man. One question, the tip of the retunrning hose to the gearbox, has to be closed avoiding air to go in, or doesn't give troubles? Thanks
It depends, if the transmission has sludge accumulation and an internal filter like honda's, no matter how you change it, the cleaning properties of new fluid will wash off the sludge clogging your filter and leaving the transmission in neutral once it heats up, only option will be to drop and change filter, unless it has a pan then remove pan and change filter. And in cases of really beat up transmissions anyways, new fluid can make the clutch material to detach from the clutch plates and complete transmission failure will be achieved at that point. Needing replacement or complete repair of it.
I like using the 4 qrt bottle and yes it works well usually do an oem filter around every 75k miles and then 4qrt oil every 30k miles it’s never let me down
I'm about to attempt this on my 88 Trans Am GTA 700r4. Good information 👍🏽
Very good. What would have happened if you had drained the fluid, and then found that the filler plug was hopelessly seized?
That's why you loosen the drain and fill plugs first.
@@stm6989 Yeah........but he didn't.........................
This particular model car doesn't have a fill plug. You add transmission fluid through the dipstick tube. My Toyota Corolla is the same way.
I knew that this is the way to go that you can change your transmission fluid and flush it the correct way awesome video thank you for the information brother
👍😊
I have no drain plug, so,I suck out via dipstick type and do the same. Just do 3 drain and fills, with 20-30 miles driving in between. yeah, some new fluid is wasted, but a lot safer.
Wonderful, great job.
The service schedule for my 2014 GMC Sierra called for replacing the transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 miles. After researching things online, I found many videos warning against the procedure claiming the loose metal particles on the fluid helps to hold the transmission together and removing them would ultimately destroy the transmission. Since I was at 95,000 miles and facing a 1,500 mile trip, I decided to have my dealership perform the expensive procedure. While I made it through the trip, my transmission failed just a few months later. Unfortunately, it cost me over $7,000 to replace it.
Something doesn't read right about this comment. Please clarify b/c if I'm hearing u correctly; it sounds like you followed your owner manual's recommended service schedule to a "T" and it ended up destroying an otherwise normally operating transmission @ around 100,000 miles!?! Is that correct? Your comment was written earlier this year, too, so @ around 100,000 miles on a 10 year-old truck, that thing hasn't even been driven that much. Much lower than the national average at least. Sounds like a 1-owner vehicle...I mean, just about every vehicle's owner's manual will recommend alot of maintenance items @ 100k miles, including the auto. tranny fluid & filter change, but are you sure you didn't miss any of the previous recommendations to service the transmission? Most American manufacturer's recommend servicing the automatic transmission & filter every 30,000 miles. I find it hard to believe that GMC can't put an automatic transmission in their 1/2 ton trucks(or any in their lineup for that matter) that can't make it past 100k with regular maintenance...
Well done... Very helpful, thanks.
Thanks for sharing your video. 👍
👍😊
Some like the 03-11 panther 4.6 autos have a service bulletin saying no flushing. This I don't consider a true flush where detergent is pressurized back through a system. This is more of a get all old out and new in service.
Got a 2010 town car but doing it this way I'm not so sure of especially as the tranny ages..putting 98% fresh fluid in there without it getting used to the new fluid.. Could potentially cause it to slip and have issues. I think keeping some dirty fluid in there by doing multiple drain and fills from the pan is probably the best bet for most cars.. Even if it's well maintained.
@@whitegoodman7465 Yes u can never get it all out. Some will stay unless it's a tear out, rebuilt, new etc. Bit I have gotten most of it out when tc has a drain, and u get the residual that stays at the tail. I've never it done with panther. I think the idea is pushing trash into a passage, clogging up the plate checks, etc. I've used the hose on the return low side to drain old, then pull pan and no mess, then refill. Idk how much comes out exactly. My pan holds 2 gallons. I'll be doing kine soon. I'll see what u can get out compared to total capacity. How many miles on urr 2010? A buddy of mines family ran a taxi service in NJ. His dad would buy panthers at min 200k miles, repair to standard if needed, serviced etc. He had alot go to 600k miles easy. What took a beating is tires, brakes and body from all the crashes. One went to 790k another commenter said he had 1 that was hitting 800k on same engine and trans, rears. Amazing what they can go. The rust is my only enemy. The salt and snow do a number on them. I also have a 99 Cartier with all original drive train but I service regularly.
@@whitegoodman7465 What I mean is I'd never flush ever. Removing all fluid then doing filter and fill is not a flush. Taking the cooler line off and pumping it out is just a way to get alot out and not have a mess when pan drops. My old TC had 394k miles and trans was good. The lady driving while texting wasn't so good. So cause she sucked at being a driver my Old car that I maintained like mad always at right times was not worth it for insurance. So I got trans and engine out and used it for another 100k plus and the transplanted car had the AC drain frame rot behind A arm so it wasn't worth the tear down and weld up. I've always had them last a long time. But I'm a stickler for always 3k oil change, 40k trans service and rear-end, etc. Always with Ford, Motorcraft or better parts. And I don't just fix any issues. I pro actively primer and paint PS lines, brake lines, oil and wax inside frame etc. The transplanted car was not mine and was just taken care of like normal ppl do, just drive it until it breaks. Hence why the drive train was shot. I'm cheap and I like ti buy it 1 time or as less as I can. I have a 8 yr old phone, mixer and blender from early 80s, etc. I don't like this planned obsolescence and throwaway way of life buying plastic junk made by toddlers in other countries. But there more than 1 way to have S3x, just cause I like doggie and u do it another way don't mean we're wrong. We get job done. That's what matters.
@@whitegoodman7465 Also I 4got most important detail, adding in ford friction modifiers. Not required but I'd bet my nut on them. Also doing Jmod has been my secret for long trans life. From factory they slip a bit for smooth shifting. I'd rather have long lige and harder shifts. It's cheap and u can do without taking tyranny out.
You’re great on camera!
You could be a Sports Commentator or a Weather Man on the news.
Very specific OG! Thanks alot!
This is good practice for sure but very hard to accomplish with newer vehicles like VW/Audi that have no dipstick and fill tube on the transmission side and only have the level stem in the oil pan instead.
Fantastic teacher
Thanks! 👍😊
what about the filter and cleaning the pan?
He said there was a nonreplaceable filter
I pulled the pan on a Cadillac ATS and BMW M3, each with around 40k miles. Surprised at how much gunk was on the magnet and in bottom of pan. Both had replaceable filters. Used ramps, jack stands and 3 ton floor jack to secure lifted car. Very stable.
On Toyota Camry they have clear metal filter with wire mesh and your best to take them off and clean them real good
I own this same exact vehicle and I can tell you for sure that it DOES have a removable filter in the transmission pan. Not just a screen. Drop the pan and change the filter after draining the old fluid. Just wasting time and money if you don’t.