After nearly 10 years in the auto service industry I honestly believe regular trans flushes is one of the best services you can do for your pocketbook long term.
Bet ya wouldn't say that if ya were in Australia with how they charge for tranny fluid here then the price of the service kits basically anything here as far that stuff goes its a rip off through our auto shops now cause they don't want the average joe to do this stuff themselves to the point they stopped putting dipstick tubes on autos here 20 yrs ago so only tranny joints can do the work
@@davidmackieson4609 the dip stick has been removed because the use of Sealed transmissions have been taking over the market, a sealed trasnmission usually doesnt require check and fill, this is why there is no dipstick, a plug on the side of the tranny upper level will be the access port and where you check for level, once the plug is removed a small ammount should want to leak out. The Reason you stated is simply false, it isnt to rip you off, it is because the equipment is serviced differently,.
GOOD TIP : I've been playing with transmissions for years. Best trick I know is that removing the dirty old transmission fluid on a full flush is bad, BUT..... REDLINE RACING ATF. Listen closely. High synthetic atf's are very slippery, hence, you flush or even change an old dirty trans may make it start slipping. NOW.. Normal Atf's have to be slippery at any level, for the clutch packs to smoothly grip in the shifts. Say you put in Amsoil signature series ATF. That is very slippery. It will make a transmission with weird shift points start shifting correctly and smoother. BUT this is not good for an OLD worn out transmission that has a slip problem. If You remove the dirty trans fluid, and you lose that dirt to help grip in the clutch packs. (which are like brake pads on brake disk in a way, but many of them stacked, that grab when pressed together within the fluid) So taking out that gripping old dirty fluid and putting in something slippery, will just make it slip more or not grab at all..SO., what I learned is that you can put in this Redline Racing Atf and it's FULL SYNTHETIC, it will grip like the old dirty fluid. .... No Friction modifiers, No slippery stuff. IT GRIPS. Racers use it because they want a slap in grab shift, no delays. Yes shifts will be sharp, but sometimes that's great. You can tweak your shifting too if you have room to play, say you still have some material on your clutch packs. You could use oem atf fluid, or oem atf fluid if its a later car, that is synthetic or part synthetic. Add more redline.. shift better, add more oem or full synthetic, You can play with this. It is a thing to people willing to experiment. I have taken worn out 200k mile transmissions and done almost full flushes, and added the Redline Racing Atf, and had the clutch pack start gripping and start working again. It doesn't work all the time, but if it just started slipping and you start on it right away, you have good chances. AAmco wont offer any of this help, they will sell you an expensive repair. Just like a dentist won't bond your tooth, they will sell you a crown because it makes them more money and is easier, and not return customers with broken bonding. Think of this. Everyone says "don't remove the old dirty fluid" and many times they're right. BUT. WHO SAYS YOU HAVE TO THROW OUT THE OLD FLUID ?!? SAVE IT ! .. So, if you flush it, and put in great ATF, like a few quarts of Amsoil Signature series ATF (best of the best) which is 100 percent synthetic, which almost all others are just additives (friction modified) to various atf fluids. Then use the rest of the 5-7 quarts with the appropriate Redline Racing atf, there is a thinker fluid for american cars etc, and a lightweight fluid for Hondas for example. If it works, It's going to work a lot longer. If it doesnt, put the old stuff back. And put it back in a home "flush" method, where you put tubes to the buckets, and start the engine, put in 4 quarts, then again 4 quarts, etc... till its all back. You could also do a "change" if it just started slipping, drop the pan, change filter, add in the 3-4-6 quarts of redline racing atf, and see if it starts gripping again, or works like new, who knows. So if this new fluid change doesn't fix your problem, you can always put the old stuff back in. No one uses this mindset, I hope I reach 1 person and help them. Tricks of the ATF fluid change. Can get you many more miles out of your transmission. Research compatibility of every fluid you try. There is a correct ATF for toyota in the Amsoil brand. Redline ATF , make sure it's recommended for your vehicle and if a Honda i'd say the lightweight ATf Redline. High end ATf's will exceed many manufacturers brands, and a single Amsoil Atf will work in very many cars and makes. Must do research. And there's your Dinner !
Thank you. So I bought this 92 chevy silverado with no history so I have been draining the trains fluid and put in a new filter but put the old fluid back in. I was so scared to put new fluid in so I've done this 3 times already about 3000 miles so far between the change. But thank you for the info.
Can't want to see those, especially why to never change oil!🤣 I once worked with a man who never changed his oil, being he had to add a quart per week (every 240 or so highway miles. Instead, he change the filter according to highway usage, which I believe was 5,000 miles on that car. Kind of hard not to blame him, if having to add every week to a 20+ year old car, why crawl underneath? While one could argue to 'get the sludge', that's what the filter is for. He does a proper oil change once per year, and installed one of those B&M kits for fast tranny fluid changes every 10,000 miles. A welder installed some type of washer before the kit. As for filter changes, he doesn't bother because (1) it's always red & uses RedLine ATF & (2), the 10,000 miles is more frequent than the OEM calls for. Around 60-to 90% of owners, depending on who is collecting the numbers, doesn't bother to do an ATF change unless a shop recommends doing so. I'll forward him this video to show him the importance of changing AT filter & cleaning the pan well. Don't want that magnet to stop doing it's job!🤣
I've been doing this for 30 years. Step 1: Loosen the top cooler line going into the trans and connect the hose to drain. I usually pump until bubbles but then I wait a few minutes you will get at least another quart or more then do it again unless you like making a mess. Step 2: Remove pan replace filter, FILTER SEAL, and gasket. Those seals are made to stick to the filter first time they get hot and they will no longer seal reliably being re-used. Step 3: Pour in FIVE quarts of fluid and pump it out again until the fluid runs nice and red. Top it off. No need to do more, or less.
I did this to my 5.7L Ram at about 95,000 miles. Initially it shifted a little strange but I'm guessing the computer figured itself out and now it shifts firmer and smoother than before. Definitely something that SHOULD be done.
Exactly changing the fluid when it's a lost cause is the problem. The clutch wear is still in the fluid so when they change it it removes clutch material so it slips
@@scribtoon7146 nah the jacks are crap. I have a couple. When you lift up on the handle, it should lift up the anvil before dropping it. The 6-ton's from HF dont lift the anvil up, which means it could slip if the handle is bumped or not down all the way. Plus the teeth on the anvil are not long enough, so there's a lot of wiggle room. I only use them in the lowest position now after experimenting with them.
@@vegeta9411 go yo Harbor Freight. Get the 6 ton jack stands. Just make sure the anvil goes up when you pull the handle up.. and use only 2 teeth if you're not feeling safe 🤷♂️
As an apprentice mechanic in the uk, I was always taught the the best maintenance I could give a car was an oil change, that's all oils, engines, gearboxes, axles and PAS. It's good to see you taking the time to show how simple the job is and the oil, before and after. Good work, keep it up.
When we used to change the fluid this way, we would run the trans through Rev, Neutral, Drive, Low, several times to flush all the passage ways in the valve body and clutches as well.
No reason to ever flush it. A waste of time that shortens its life. People brag they flush them and the trans lasts 200K..well if you didn't flush it would have lasted 500K
@@robertwadas that's a terrible recommendation, I've been a heavy duty mechanic for over 20 years, specialising in hydraulics. Fluids are a lot better than they used to be, but they certainly aren't 500k good, or even 200. lifetime fluids are lifetime of the warranty basically, they should be changed at 100k , if not earlier. Just because they look clean, doesn't mean they are still optimal. Everyone has a story about their transmission lasting forever without being touched, but it doesn't mean it's good practice. You'll find more failures from not looking after them than people doing preventative maintenance on them.
@@Brettj77 The mechanic is saying same thing. I have never changed it on any car and some hit 500K. Best bet is to put luberplate. I have been an ASE Mastertech since 1986 and worked directly with hydraulic oil companires and taken apart heavy equiptment that actually uses a heavier detergent. If you plan on keeping your car over 300K, maybe the oild today may be better, I trust as it will help keep warranties good. I am not familiar with todays auto trans, I dont keep most cars anywhere past 300K. I guess I def. could be wrong, as we run Cummins trucks with only changing outside oyl filter on leases of 500 K. I guess being a mechanic, I just dont bother as I can pull out a trand, get a kit, rebuild and install as much as a non mechanic would pay double my cost to do that. A mechanics car is noticible cause its usually the loudest as we let mufflers have to fall off before fixing exhaust. I mean my 1982 vette, auto trans is perfect and I would be scared to change trans fluid ! you know it has gunked up material on clutches. When I add, I find lubriplate is good for end and trans.I dont work on the newer cars. Im glad , trans fluid smells !
I did this exact same method. 1995 GMC SIERRA K1500 5.7 4L60 TRANSMISSION 190,000 miles. 5,600 miles later, ABSOLUTELY Amazing. The transmission has Zero...nada...zilch problems; it shifts like a dream....perfectly smooth. No slipping issue at all. The difference was like night and day.
@@nevillenewman2785 The transmission felt sluggish...the shift points were not predictable.The complete flush and filter completely fix the issues. I did this to my 2016 Chevy Spark also. (Preventive). Make sure to use high quality, correct transmission fluid and parts (AC DELCO not cheap Chinese garbage). Side note: If you have done the flush described in the video and are having shudder issues, try Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fix. If you are feeling "jerk" down or up shifts, try Lubegard 60902 Transmission Fluid Protectant.
I have been a automotive service technician for 30 years. And I know this is a 5 year old video, but having watched it. I have to say that this is definitely 12 minutes of how not to change your transmission fluid. That so called flush by it's self could smoke the clutch packs and damage the converter with the lost fluid pressure.
THANK YOU for speaking up so I can hear you. I was so pleased that I had to reduce the volume a small amount on my Laptop - cause UN-like lots of videos, I actually hear what you were saying. As a former transmission mechanic I can say most of this is correct.
I wouldn’t flush it at a shop I think they use pressure and you will end up with more leaks than you had I’d change it but not flush I guess he don’t know the difference
I ABSOLUTELY AGREE, for example when he shows the metal in the old filter, I considered that the filter WAS doing its job. I have seen many screw-ups by kids working at quick oil change shops doing real damage at this. I currently am driving a 21 year old Buick LeSabre with over 100,000 mils and the HORRIBLE :-) original fluid in it and it shifts and works perfectly. This transmission fluid change is like the air filter scam, or the NITROGEN tire inflation stuff. I know you cant hear me but I am SCREAMING just like he did, but I am saying "IF IT ISNT BROKE, dont touch that transmission".
I stay in Florida. My sister bought a Nissan that just came from Rhode island. I have never seen so much rust under a vehicle I know working on the suspension is gonna be a complete nightmare 😭
Meanwhile I had a Canadian friend flexing some 20 year old daily driver that was in really good shape. They salt their too, he said the secret was the car got undercoated every year since new. I'm skeptical, but willing to try given its just $100 a year at my local Krown
@@cpufreak101 guess it depends on who coats it. If you haven't done it then its probably not worth it on even a 2 year car. If its a bad coat job it will trap moisture and salt and eat it from the under the undercoat. *EDIT* (I forgot krown is a fluid film vs some of the oil goop like undercoating *) The best advice I've come to know from winter driving is get your car washed often in the winter. 2 times a week if you can, especially after a major salting of the roads.
Hello, dude, I like your videos. As a non native English speaker, I don't need to turn on the closed captions. Your voice is so clear, showing your sincerity and eagerness to share useful and helpful knowledge with people in need of it. Keep up good work.
BACK FLUSH is what you might do to cooling system. BACK FLUSH is what you NEVER want to do on a transmission. FORWARD FLUSH (i.e., just REPLACE) is okay. -- Things I do different: #1 I use a short (nipple size) steel line that I hose clamp a hose to rather than relying on threading a hose into the radiator #2 Use a plastic trashcan, not a drain pan, to catch the used fluid #3 Continuously pour new fluid into trans-fluid inlet while the old is being pumped out Yes, you might use 3-4 times the fluid capacity of the trans just for one change Considering how often this fluid change is done, it is worth it. You do NOT want to see bubbles in the old fluid, you instead want to see clean fluid coming out the hose.
He wasn't back-flushing though. That would require an external pump to pump fluid back into that hose he had hooked up to the radiator. That was a simple flush, although I wouldn't let air get to the pump. Quart or 2 out, quart or 2 in.
@John Doe I think you're right. I think it's best if you just drain the pan and add the same amount of new fluid that you've just drained. Then drive it for a few days. Then do the drain and fill again. This process will introduce the new fluid slowly. Eventually the old fluid will get diluted and be mostly new. I would only do this if you have a transmission drain plug. Removing the pan each time would be a pain in the butt!!! Again, this method is for the slow introduction of the new fluid. *****Those reading this because your already feeling or hearing problems in your transmission will probably not gain any benefit from doing this. It would be less harsh on your trans, but I think your trans is too far gone already. Do this method BEFORE you start to have problems and I bet your trans will last much longer!
Another technique that is more time consuming due to making this a 3 step multi day procedure by having 2 assistants help you. one to start and stop the engine, one to monitor the old fluid coming out and you to pour in the new fluid as the old is going out. for the sake of simplicity, let's say your tranny holds 12 qts. including the torque converter. Set up the hoses as you did, then have 2 empty gallon clear plastic jugs like milk or distilled water on hand. Then as you signal the "starter" to get the motor running, have your funnel in place and a gallon of new fluid while your "catcher" is ready to monitor the old fluid. As best you can pour the fluid in the funnel simultaneously while the old is collecting in the empty jug. Have the catcher yell STOP to the starter as the milk jug gets close to the top. IF you haven't finished emptying the new fluid into the tranny, finish that. Then switch out collection jugs and get another new gallon ready for round 2. Repeat this process with the 2nd gallon and shut the motor off and reconnect the lines and check the fluid level. Two gallons in and two gallons out shouldn't need much topping off. Then drive the vehicle a couple hundred miles and then set up the flush trio once again. Run the same operation doing 2 1 gallon flush procedures, hook things back up again and drive another couple hundred miles. The third time only do 1 gallon of flushing and shut the motor down . Now pull the tranny pan and filter do the cleaning and brake cleaner stuff and new gasket and bolt torquing. Top off the fluid according to manufacturer's instructions and you have just done a $400 tranny flush for about $150 worth of fluid and filter. The reason you do this in steps is to avoid "douching" the old tranny fluid all at once with all new fluid because all new fluid could easily shake loose dirt in the system and all of a sudden you have a filter that's overwhelmed by the gunk and tranny fluid passages that clog and the tranny doesn't shift right. By doing it in steps, you avoid the mass of dirt and gunk as the gallons you pour in will mix with the old and gradually clean things out at a pace that the old filter can handle. By the third step, you're ready to replace the filter and put the new one in. Now you have effectively flushed out the torque converter by driving it several hundred miles on increasingly cleaner tranny fluid so when you finally drain the pan and top off the level your new filter will be filtering nearly 95% new fluid . Yes, this is pretty anal retentive, but if you don't know how old your tranny fluid is, this is the safe way to do it. It could very well save you a $3-4,000 transmission repair/replacement. Jimmy, I like your style!! Keep up the good work man.
Why would Ford make it easier for you to do a fluid change? Now, they put the frickin' dipstick, a 3" one, under the vehicle, when you have to check the transmission fluid level. Rocket science.
Exactly my thought. If you're just going to flush by dilution anyhow then there's no reason to run it dry. Pump a couple quarts out, add a couple quarts, repeat.
I’m agreeing with these guys, what your doing is bypassing the lubrication circuit of the transmission. Right after the trans cooler, trans fluid goes straight to the bearings of the shafts and with you putting fluid into a bucket, instead of back into the transmission, you are running the trans dry of fluid and scoring bearings within the transmission. Always do drain and refill and change filter. Flushing is for very low mileage vehicles and you need proper flushing machine that keeps good fluid going into lubrication circuit
You're right. The sequence is off. I would drain and replace filter then fill then purge or flush the old fluid. Besides all old fluid will go to the return line which is dump in the drain pan. He basically run it dry. Good thing he has a disclaimer.
Hmm. Is it possible to put a catch can for old transmission fluid, then take the transmission cooler line and put it in a bucket of clean new fluid? Would that break it? Or not work? EDIT: I did something like Jimmy did on a grand marquis.. it was high miles (like 17.5k miles per year average) but it still ran fine and I took it through many states, even covering one of them (Tennessee)!
P M this is not considered a flush. It uses the internal transmission pump. Flushing generally means hooking up an external machine that has its own pump and pushes for lack of a better word new fluid throughout the transmission. Quite different end results.
Pynaegan because using an external machine with its own pump (and unknown pressures etc) is thought to be more likely to dislodge particles etc. that could then clog up ports etc. The internal pump would not do this
The way I see it, He did a complete change and even changed the filter. If he were to just flush it, the pan never would have come undone and the filter would still be in place. You remember the magnet with the shavings? There could be more!
My 2003 s-10 Chevy truck 2.2l I done the flush exactly following the same steps on your video only have a 84000 original miles ....it shifts like a dream ....thanks Jimmy for your great advice..GOD blessed you
There is a big difference between a low pressure flush as per done in this case. And a full high pressure flush that could further damage your clutches using a flushing machine. So yes and thankyou for your xtra educational vid.
Nope, learned my lesson with a 99 tahoe. I purchased it with 140k miles on it and as a preventative maintenance flushed the tranny, ended up rebuilding it less than 5k miles later. LOL My theory is, if its been neglected, keep neglecting it till it dies.
Or... You're a moron and added DEX/MERC blend... Fucking Walmart bought me a new tranny after literally telling them.. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING UNDER MY HOOD... DO NOT EVEN POP MY HOOD.. they fried my flywheel timing kit from Edelbrock, and the entire add-on fuel injection system. Added engine oil to a brand new Stage one transmission. They did a battery load test.. backwards with crusy old equipment that literally had bottle tops where the fuses should be.. ALL I WANTED WAS TIRES INSTALLED....!!!
Actually @1D10CRACY You are right if you have high milage (100k plus) on a vehicle and have no idea when the trans-fluid was changed last you could do a lot more damage changing it than just leaving it be until you need a new one.
You shouldn't take the pan off like that. You had it right in the beginning, but trying to take it off level never works. So when you get down to the last couple of bolts on one side, or one corner, just start loosening those up. As the pan slowly tilts, it will pour more fluid out of the pan from the opposite corner. keep doing that until you run out of one of the bolts. Now you have one left. Push the pan back up flat, remove the last bolt, _then_ lower the pan flat as you can. You'll have much less fluid to deal with and it's far less likely to spill in your face.
I have a 2010 gmc Sierra with 143k. I just flushed the transmission fluid. It made a big difference in how smooth my shifting is. The fluid was old and dark but didn't stink. I didn't think I would feel a difference, but it really made my transmission buttery smooth.
Agreed! Done 2 since I bought my 03 yukon at 130k and now has 242k common sense its auto clutch material wears it.has a filter for a reason ! Gotta change it out
@@robertfloresjr8513 all that clutch material will eventually plug up small shifting passages, but in most cases the clutches are worn out by then anyway. Agree if you changed the filter where most of material caught when you fill it back up that’s enough.
I would say, don't screw the vinyl hose into the radiator cooler. Buy a fitting, it might be brass or it might be plastic, screw it in and fit a hose over the fitting. I say this because a fragment of vinyl could end up in the valve body.
I've never understood people saying never change your trans fluid. "My buddy's trans quit right after he changed the fluid". Well, yeah that's because it had 200k miles on the original fluid and was slipping, so he changed the fluid and the transmission continued to grenade itself like it was already going to. That's like saying right after I changed my oil (after running the car with the oil light on for 300 miles) the engine seized! Never change your oil!
If a flush killed your transmission, you were on borrowed time period. If the ancient fluid was what is keeping friction material in play then it is only a matter of time. Don't go flushing it willy nilly now, but keep things in perspective.... Poor maintenance is what bites you in the rear, not what you "do".
The myth about flushing your transmission came about in the old days before Lock-Up Converters. During that time transmission temperatures would get pretty high and bake the internal seals. When that happens that old, thick, chocolate color fluid would build up a layer of varnish in the pistons, drums and servos. It would act as a seal holding fluid pressure. The clean and highly detergent new fluid would wash out that varnish and cause a pressure loss in the hydraulic circuit. When that happens you transmission will begin to slip or fail to engage at all. However, with the new cooler running transmissions flushing is a great way of keeping it working great. I've even had slipping transmission begin to work better after a flush and continue to do so for many years later. The MotorVac Transmission flush works great, very easy to use, eliminates the mess associated with transmission service and after service pan leaks.
But it wasn't a myth because it actually DID mess up lots of people's transmissions!! how is that a myth? Why would anyone trust these flush machines now? that's ridiculous
@@Fremen02 That was not a myth prior to lock up converters. Because torque converters created a lot of heat which broke down fluid and harden the internal seals. However, it would build up a thick varnish that internal helped the internal seals. When flushed it would remove that varnish causing the seals to loose pressure. Varnish did not reduce pressure but did reduce volume. Resulting on slower clutch engagement causing more wear on the fiber clutches and creating hot spots on the steels. That's just the short explanation. Anyhow, I've done hundreds of demonstrations across the U.S. and have solved many transmission issues with a MotorVac flush unit. I also have 30 years experience as a transmission builder, shop owner and another 10 years instructing others. It still is amazing that the current myth or lie still continues.
Technically, this was not a "Flush". This was a "Drain and Fill"... A true trans flush is done by a machine that extracts the old fluid, pumps in and circulates cleaning agents, extracts that and then pumps in new trans fluid. All done under pressure. Trans flushes are only recommended for vehicles that have trans flushes done at regular intervals since day one. And even a machine flush doesn't remove 100% of the old fluid, plus it may also leave some solvent behind which can damage the components. It can also loosen and dislodge old sludge in an already worn out trans that will almost certainly cause it to fail much sooner. I learned the hard way...years ago I had 97 Mitsu Diamante with a slight trans slip. I took it to a quick lube shop and did a trans flush with the machine and the transmission crapped out 3 days later, would not shift into gear. Moral of the story...Just drop the pan and do a drain and fill, especially on an older vehicle. Much safer than a machine flush. Either way, Good vid.
Love the video/tutorial. With your confidence and outlook, it's encouraging after having heard for years all the warnings, doom and gloom of changing trans fluid. A bonafide transmission shop refused my request for the service you just performed. They said they wouldn't guarantee it would operate well enough afterwards to get me one block down the street. I have an '06 Lincoln Mark LT with Semi-original transmission fluid - What I started doing periodically is siphoning out (thru the fill tube) and replacing 3 - 4 quarts at a time - gradually introducing fresh fluid into the system. I figure after several cycles I'll eventually have diluted and replaced all the old fluid, without a sudden "shock" to the system caused by all fresh at once. Of course this doesn't address the cruddy filter and pan.
The filter media still has to be addressed and most cases dropping the pan and replacing the gasket which most models required depending on the manufacturer, changing filter is always recommended along with the fuel filter change and as well as cleaning off the magnet on the pan
If the transmission has regular maintenance there is zero risk to flushing, same for all fluid systems in vehicles. If you have a high mileage car that never had regular maintenance or you dont know the maintenance history then your rolling the dice on a flush.
@Raymond Jayme the lesseon u learned should not be that u shouldnt change a trans fluid if it is high milage and hasn't been changed it should be that u shouldnt be an idoit and buy truck with out checking the trans fluid and not be in this predicament in the first place and by truck with regular maintenance had been done and wont blow ur transmission with u give it a flush
@@killer2600 not true, because when you drain the pan on an automatic transmission you only get about a third of the fluid out.the only way to get it all out is with a flush. That's why you should do a flush every 3rd or 4th time you service your trans...
james meadows ok do do a drain and refill on auto Lexus with 200k miles with no previous maintenance history? Not a flush but drain like 3.5 quarts and refill
The video was enjoyable and covered the basics. Anyone that's annoyed by this guy's voice or lack of mechanical knowledge should tune out and skip the negative comments. Keep up the good work!!!
uh mechanical knowledge is the purpose of the video and getting it right is the difference between good and a 2000+ dll Trans getting trashed. this isnt everyone gets a trophy be nice...
Amen. Why can’t people say what they want without trashing what someone else is doing. If you’re watching this you should be doing other research as well for the project at hand, but hiding in your house and name calling or bashing what others are offering as their experience is cowardice in the least and honestly like my departed father use to say, if you’re going to talk about me, talk to me but if you’re going to talk to me like some of these people, protect your neck.
I just changed out the transmission fluid on a 2003 Buick Century with 69,000 miles on the 4T65e model. I changed out the pan to an aftermarket aluminum model with cooling fins. The fluid was very dark amd there was a large amount of debris. The magnet was full of metal shavings. I replaced the filter and bolted up the new pan. Filled the transmission with 8 quarts. Then I pulled the line out of the radiator and started the engine, pumping another four quarts out of the torque converter. I filled the transmission with another 4 quarts. I used a total of 12 quarts of AC Delco fully synthetic Dexron VI fluid which is backwards compatible with Dexron III. I ran into one complication. I twisted the head off of one of the bolts while torquing it down. I had to replace the single bolt. That was a job. I had to drill into the bolt and lightly hammered a star driver into it. It twisted out relatively easily. The new bolt went right in. The replacement pan has a drain plug which will make the next fluid change so much easier. I am in full agreement that one should change out the transmission fluid regularly. Especially seeing the amount of debris on the magnet and the appearance of the old fluid. While I did not take the time to open up the old filter, it probably looked much like the filter in this 4L60e transmission. Anyhow, nice video.
It definitely depends on the mileage and upkeep of the vehicle as well as make and model if you have an older American made vehicle with 200k on It and it’s never had a transmission flush, do not flush It. It will cause major slipping and may become completely undriveable without a transmission rebuild. If you have a vehicle like this that’s older but only has around 80k miles you should be totally fine servicing the transmission changing the filter out and changing the fluid, remember most manufacturers recommend you get a trans flush every 60k-75k miles so he’s literally not that late for a transmission flush. The reason mechanics will tell you not to do a trans flush is because you have an old vehicle with a huge amount of mileage on It that has a bunch of dirty fluid that is actually helping the transmission still run, you change out that fluid though with a worn transmission and all that gunk is gone and clean fluid makes It slip. It’s that simple. If that doesn’t apply to you, you should definitely get your transmission serviced when your vehicle manufacturers tell you to. The problem is a lot of mechanics run into people with transmissions on their last leg trying to just get a transmission flush thinking it’s gonna help but it’ll just make things worse. So to save you the money and the mechanic the time and stress they let you know that you need to get a transmission rebuild or a whole new transmission.
All fluids used in our vehicles have a factory-recommended change cycle. Following these recommendations is key to a long service life from the vehicles. Our shop is located 35 miles from a major city. Folks who live out here but work in the city put on around 70,000 miles each year. With proper maintenance, getting over 300,000 miles and more from a vehicle is quite common.
"All fluids used in our vehicles have a factory-recommended change cycle. Following these recommendations is key to a long service life from the vehicles"....BMW, Subaru, Mercedes and others have for many years had so-called "lifetime" trans fluid. There is no change cycle. Auto manufacturers are in business to make money, not sell cars. Change ATF every 60K miles or less if severe duty. Simple.
There is a better way to remove the oil from the trans oil pan than what you did. . The way I do it is remove all but three bolts on the pan, I let two bolts at one end of the pan, and the 3rd bolt at the opposing end of the pan. You then loose halfway all 3 bolts , then with a hand support the pan at the end where there is one bolt, and with your other hand remove that bolt, by doing that, you will be able to let the pan tilt down that will cause the oil overflow the pan and fall into a collecting pan underneath, while The other 2 bolts are supporting the opposing end of the pan. the more inclination, the more oil will drop and eventually, most of the oil will drain out, to the container that you should have put underneath before, by now the pan is very light and therefore, remove the two bolts and drop the pan entirely and empty the remaining oil . There is no mess and you have total control.
After seeing the title, I thought, "hmm, lets see why this guy thinks I should never do this", so I watched it. Guess which bit o' knowledge I'm still missing. -_-
NvrUseYur RealName I think the title is him being facetious. But I have heard some mechanics say that it should not be changed. But the auto manufactures recommend changing it every 50 to 75, 000 miles. I do it to my cars and get over 200,000 miles out of the transmissions. I have always owned GM products except for my first car that was a 57 Ford Fairlane. Sold it when I got a good deal on a 66 Impala SS. Every thing since then has been a GM product.
If your trans fluid is brown, its getting burned due to the friction plates being worn down to the metal base. So now there is metal rubbing on metal getting very hot and burning the fluid . Changing the fluid will not help. The trans needs rebuilding.
@@davepeck4045 No, it won't be brown if the transmission is working properly. It should stay reasonably reddish even after 100k miles. The stuff this OP is posting is brown-brown and that is a sign of a failing transmission where a fluid change will do nothing.
I owned an rx300 and regular trans fluid changes were a must to avoid toasted fluid destroying the trans prematurely. Older trans could go years with so much as the fluid changing colour. If you don't have the ability to do flushes just do two changes very close together and put a trans cleaner in the first change. Ive done that a few times in different cars
I'm in agreement with most of what you said except - "Put a trans cleaner in the first change"... My advise is NEVER put in a transmission additive especially one meant for cleaning! Dumping any sort of solvent into the ATF is asking for trouble and I'd never do it to any car of mine. And don't forget ATF is a powerful solvent all by itself. So there is nothing a solvent is going to do inside the trans that the ATF isn't already doing thus no need for it, and you might make things actually WORSE by an additive.
Yes, and we can flag it to UA-cam for being MISLEADING. The title had me wondering what would go wrong. Along the way, I also determined he can't do math. He removed "about 5 qts" and "put in 4 qts", then removed another 4-5 qts. In the end he's adding back 8.
I'm a retired Toyota MDT. We flushed every auto trans every 30k and had no come backs, But with our Lexus/Toyota systems all went to Syn Oil, which raises the price for flushing. My advice is drain all that will come out. put drain plug back and add, two quarts of new Syn Trans fluid and start and drain again,. Then pull the pan and install a new transmission filter. Clean to Magnates in the pan. Put it all back together. Fill with proper Syn Trans Fluid and never drive till fluid is at full line.
On the cooler fitting. In my best Yoda voice: "Crescent wrench leads to vice grips. Vice grips leads to the dark side of gnarly, rounded off fitting." A Jedi uses his flare nut wrench light saber. Use the force.
Keeping the bolts in the same hole is stupid unless some of the bolts are of different lengths no need to keep them separated that's just over kill !!!
If you're uncomfortable with a "Flush" after all the hoopla about potential damage, simply fully drain the old stuff out, change the filter, and refill with fresh Premium fluid made for you car.....way damn better than doing Nothing
Flushing wouldn’t include dropping and cleaning the pan, removing all the particles on the magnet and installing a new filter (I guess) but just changing the oil.
@@killer2600 Flushing requires a machine, which pressurises new fluid into the trans, and retrieving the old... which could cause particles to get stuck in valves and other small orifices... The is fluid replacement.
People commenting on the volume will be delighted to know there are a plethora of volume control options built in to every device imaginable. You're supposed to use those at your own discretion to raise or lower the volume of the content you're watching.
The fluid is brown mud because of clutch wear. You've got worn steels turning on burnt clutches held in by a bunch of hard old seals. You've just changed the viscosity of the transmission fluid, making it even more slippery. Now its just like new! What could possibly go wrong? If you didn't change it at the service intervals, leave it alone and start saving up for a rebuilt unit.
Nice job. I usually warm the trans up ,Get biggest drain pain you can find first loosen all the pan bolts and let excess fluid drain , then hold pan up and take out 3 sides of bolts except for the opposite side that I wish pan to tilt to. Remove pan , remove filter. The filter seal is easier than you think . Just V it inwards with a awl and hammer and use a deep socket to drive in new filter seal. It is a good idea to make sure all valve body bolts seem snug. Clean pan and magnets , install new filter. Over fill the trans a couple quarts from what was drained. Remove cooler line or hose and also run a hose from end of disconnected line or hose into a drain pan .Start and run vehicle and back light the fluid coming out to see when it comes out clean and turn off engine, add to trans what came out and subtract the 2 extra quarts you overfilled to figure what you need to add , then warm transmission and recheck level for what you still need to add, and hopefully no flare on shifting or need to add Lucas Transmission Mucas , LOL Stay away from the dealer sold flush services that use cleaner solvent or that don't address changing the sump filter .
Great u have been successful in proving to everyone ur a complete idiot and have a small amount of luck or jus drive ur car like a old person less than 25 mph its whole life
My brother had the same year model. It had ni transmission problems but loads of others. 300k miles? Not going to say you're lying but can't back you up in saying you're saying the truth. Very hard to believe unless you have fixed every problem on your own. That would mean endless repairs because of emotional attachment to your car. Like Scotty says: endless money pit.
I had an old 96 Ford Falcon, the owners manual sadi to change the trans fluid every 90,000 km. I asked my mechanic and he said to just drop the fluid and let as much as possible drain out. I changed the fluid 4 times (I clocked up 480,000 km in 16 years) and never had a problem. The trans didn't slip or fail to change up or down and was always smooth and quiet. I towed trailers, went on long trips with the family and the car loaded up, used the roofracks too so the trans was put under load on occasion but never gave a problem. I don't know if flushing a trans will cause harm but you should at least change the fluid and filter at certain intervals to keep the trans running smooth.
Heat is the #1 transmission killer. Do you have an external cooler on the tranny? And or do you live in a cooler environment? Do you drive mostly highway or high city stop & go traffic Do you tow or carry heavy load?? All those conditions WILL make a HUGE difference in the life and performance of the transmission. If your driving habits are non aggressive style and your all highway, cool environment, and have a external cooler, just those things alone will darn near double the life of the tranny alone. Heat, aggressive driving, lots of stop and go, towing and no external cooler will make the tranny run hot all the time and will break the fluid down reducing the effectiveness of fluid characteristics. Changing fluid should be done more often depending on conditions and habits. If your driving in ideal conditions and with external cooler and "light foot" on the gas & break peddle it can go longer on the change. The factory "recommended" intervals is exactly that "recommended". When it comes to transmissions I NEVER follow the book on change intervals. I ONLY follow intervals on the engine since we are dealing with a completely different system with completely different circumstances that the engine deals with daily, but thats another story. Anyway, I have always had good luck with my vehicles just doing how I do it. It also helps having a brother that owns an automotive repair shop and good at what he does with REAL knowledge and experience on the subject. My brother does not recommend NOT changing fluid in a "sealed" unit. He said a sealed transmission still goes through the same stuff the older non sealed units go through. So he recommends the usual maintenance fluid/filter change depending on the conditions and habits atleast once or twice or many times during its life.
I usually support the pan with a small jack with a piece of wood on it, remove all the bolts, then bleed jack slowly and pull out... but hey, some people dont mind fluids all over their face...
A Finned aluminum oil pan With the drain plug is less than $75 delivered to your front door. making drain very sensible from here Plus the Aluminum reservoir cooling affect you benefit from. I just installed one few hours ago. Tomorrow will do the run-purge scenario like you demonstrated here.
Did this on old Caddys, Mercedes Diesels, etc. The Mercs gave a drain plug in both the drain pan AND the torque converter. Designed by the gods (made to be serviced)
Yes they do! My f250 has a drain plug on transmission and torque converter. I just changed my again and was able to get about 14 quarts out of a 17 quart system. No pumping just simply drain and I drained the trans cooler and used a air hose to blow the lines. I even use some friction modifier for the rear differential in the transmission fluid( it won't hurt it, only helps) and the results are amazing can't fill the transmission shift.
78k I would do it after a smell test. If it smelled burnt, then it's a crapshoot. I would like to mention you are fortunate to have the shift cable bracket bolted with the pan bolts instead of those torx bolts above in the case. Also the exhaust wasn't in the way and dang man, living in northern New England it would be a treat to work on an old thing like that.
You lost me when you used the crescent wrench instead of a line wrench...your next video can teach us how to repair rounded off transmission cooler lines.
@@MilitantMalley Rounding off is not the issue. You can easily force the nut out of round using an adjustable or open end wrench. The correct tool to use is a flare nut wrench which engages 4 or 5 (depending on the design) of the corners and does not squeeze the hollow nut.
5 months ago I knew nothing about car. I didn't even know how to change oil. Now I rebuilt 3 44RE and 2 42RE on 5 different jeeps and currently boring a rebuilt 4.0 cyl to 4.2...2020 Covid lock down gave me so much time to explore the ability I never had. It was the best year ever.
You can easily drill a hole in the drain pan, and weld or braze a nut onto the outside of the hole as a homemade bung hole. Then add a bolt with crush washer to it and you now have a drain hole.
And seasoned mechanic will use extension and socket to get them hand right. Running them down with fingers is pointless. Idiot use powered device that don’t know what there doing.
I never flush. I change the fluid very often instead. I just extract and empty the oil pan from the dipstick tube. No mess at all. The same goes for when I am replacing the filter and cleaning the magnet. No need to make a mess by removing an oil pan full of oil.
The last JIFFYLUBE transaction job left me with an error code for the transaction solenoid. When I drained the fluid I found the magnets missing as well as the transmission filter! I ended up doing my own transmission change. Unfortunately the error is still there. I could only think somewhere in the valve body got clogged with metallic particles..
You did a perfect job from my experience with these. Ive been doing this stuff for awhile and i can tell you that you should ALWAYS keep your fluid clean (sidenote: although the fluid in your truck was due it really wasnt all that bad for the miles and age, the prior owner was easy on it or cared for it i can tell) the times i have heard or seen a trans fail after a fluid change the transmission was already so close to death from not being maintained it was soon to die anyhow. Anyway you did it right with a good choice in fluid and didnt spill enough to bitch about, great job.
One of the great debates of the auto industry. I have even had transmission shops tell me not to even drain transmission fluid if there wasn't a problem. As far as a flush goes, it's either the greatest thing for your transmission, or it will kill your transmission and the transmission's ghost will haunt your family forever. I'm pretty sure it's one of the two.
I would recommend finding a new mechanic. The manufacturer of nearly every single vehicle recommends doing so at 60 to 100k miles. Are you telling me your mechanic has more knowledge than the company that spent millions testing and designing the transmission? Drain the fluid and you'll see the damage thousands of miles does to the fluid
@@usvcrescuecrew9563 since car makers are the experts, why do the same car companies keep having the same problems? They are so smart and so great, yet look at all the transmission problems dodge and Nissan have. Hell, look at the problems Ford is having with the new broncos. But yes, they are the experts
@@anthonythompson4110 Humans still assemble most of the transmission so you will have some failures. Imagine building transmissions every day for a job. That would get old fast.
Although I do believe in flushing coolant, I do NOT believe in flushing the ATF. When I buy a new-to-me used vehicle with an automatic transmission, I drain the ATF (measure it so that I have a good starting point on the refill before adding any to top off), drop the pan, change the filter and refill. Then I start the engine and run it through the gears with the brake on so the new ATF is fully circulated. Then I drive a short distance, drain (measure the amount drained) and refill. Then I drive a short distance again using the same procedure. These repeated refills get MOST of the old fluid out. After this, I drain & refill @ 30K miles WITHOUT changing the filter. As long as this scheduled frequency is followed, the filter will last the life of the car. The important thing is to change the filter after the break-in period. All of my vehicles require the same OEM spec ATF which Valvoline MaxLife meets, as well as others. I make sure the replacement fluid is FULL SYNTHETIC. I've been using this procedure for decades with no problems at all in any of my vehicles.
Thanks for a Great vid. Excellent suggestion to use an accurate torque wrench. Now I want to see you team up with Scotty for a "I'm not screaming, you're screaming" vid
Very well done-- I like the idea your audio is clear, and narrative well-organized and smoothly delivered. Your lighting and camera angles are perfect-- no arms or shoulders to block the camera view. While some viewers complained about "shouting", a volume adjustment takes care of that, easily-- I would rather hear every word, than wonder what the narrator said at certain points. Best of all, you make clear where extra care is required. Of course, I subscribed.
Your video here is going to come in great use extremely soon like in a week because I’m having a little delay in drive engagement and reverse starting to not work. So this is my first attempt to fix it with the lowest cost. Much appreciate the detailed instructions of the process.
Best to change filter and fluid on A/T every 30,000 miles. Using this method does help remove some of the converter fluid vs. a simple drain and refill. Auto makers might suggest 50,000 or even 100,000 between changes. Not a good idea. By the way, screaming at us is not recommended for the entire video.
Doing this method removes almost all the old fluid in the system if you let it drain until it comes out clean then you've replaced probably 98% of the old fluid with new fluid !!! The only thing that I don't agree with, Is letting it drain twice until you see bubbles !! Let it drain once and then add couple of gallons of fresh fluid and run until it comes out clean, this way you won't run the pump dry...shut off the engine and add more fluid until it comes up to the add mark on the dipstick, Then let it run until operating temperature check it again if It's anywhere between the hash marks on the stick then take it out and drive it for 15 or 20 minutes and check it again...if needed add more fluid to bring it up to the full mark !!
To me the problem with a flush instead of drain and fill is that the filter does not get changed. When you go to oil change place they just flush in new fluid come out and don't replace the most important part the filter. What happens is the flush process causes the filter to become so clogged that the fluid cannot pass through it. I've seen one where water could not even passed through it on a transmission that gave out
You need to change your oil change place, there is no way a sane person will change the oil and not the filter, they are done at the same time. I am still not sure if flushing a transmission is a good idea, however a flush comes with new transmission filter.
Drop the pan. Change the filter. Put the pan on. Add three quarts. Have adequate amount of new fluids ready to pour in the funnel in dipstick. Have the plastic tube in the oil container. as shown. Have someone start the engine. Immediately start pouring new fluid. Shut off engine when you see the color of the new fluid in the hose. Put our line on. Top off fluid by adding and checking level slowly while engine is running in Park. You’re done.
I like the method you outlined the best, and it's exactly what I did on my last transmission fluid change. With my foot on the brake, I also moved the transmission from Park, to Reverse, to Neutral, to Drive, to D1, D2, D3, and back up to Park with the new fluid pumping out.
I'm going to disagree. It's better to get a good amount of the old fluid out of the trans. before changing the filter. If you don't you're running a lot old fluid thru the new filter.The way he did it is not a perfect way but it's certainly better than changing the filter before getting at least some of that old fluid out.
The best and biggest drain pan is one you can get for free! Keep an eye out for old dishwashers at the curb on trash pickup day. Drag the thing home *if* it's a fully plastic tub interior. Leave the stainless steel ones where they sit... Cut the tub free of the metal cage and supporting wires, tubes, and pipes. Place the bare dishwasher tub on its back. Now, look at were all the holes and penetrations are. You should be able to take a saws-all with a fine toothed blade and cut the tub 6" to a foot off the ground depending on the holes and the depth of the tub you need. I use these DIY tubs everywhere... They're on shelves as catch-alls for small crap and parts. They make great wash basins. And, per this post, they excel at large-area drain pans for transmission fluid changes and such. You're welcome!
Here's why his flush may have worked. The prevailing reason not to flush is because it may push dirty particles into areas that cannot tolerate any debris. This is primarily because pump machines may push ATF fluids in directions not normally in the transmission flow design. He used the vehicles pump to push the ATF with the flush. So the ATF was always pumped in the direction of designed flow at design pressures, thus reducing the chances that dirty fluid would get deposited in areas its not supposed to.
Thats why its generally a better option to change the fluid instead of flushing it. New fluid will not harm your tranny, it will actually help it. Its generally best to stay away from a "flush" service due to it being pushed like you said, containated "new" fluid being introduced after the filter, or a poor quality machine that may allow they tranny to run dry. Best best for the diy'er is simply to drop the pan, let as much fluid drain out as possible, and install a new filter.
Yes are you going to do a after transmission fluid change video to update us on the status of the fluid change and flush really interested in knowing how the performance of the transmission is now
@@boripippi4424 just make sure it is topped every 6 months. The fluid keeps the metal part of the discs from ppeling away from the discs. New fluid will increase this process and the discs will start slippin and eventually your trans will be no good. Unless you plan on driving it for 700,000 miles. I didnt touch the tran fluid ever... If you have time to do nothing and throw away..do it.
Flushed all mine in my 97 Jeep , 98 gmc 3500 and my 2000 Cadillac Escalade last year and brought them right back to life. Use them all equally roughly 200km a day for work.
After nearly 10 years in the auto service industry I honestly believe regular trans flushes is one of the best services you can do for your pocketbook long term.
“Regularly” is the key word.
I absolutely agree, especially in manual transmission preventing wear and tear of the gears
Bet ya wouldn't say that if ya were in Australia with how they charge for tranny fluid here then the price of the service kits basically anything here as far that stuff goes its a rip off through our auto shops now cause they don't want the average joe to do this stuff themselves to the point they stopped putting dipstick tubes on autos here 20 yrs ago so only tranny joints can do the work
I couldn't agree more. I have a number of equipment that all use oilnincluding my vehicles and short intervals extend the life indefinitely.
@@davidmackieson4609 the dip stick has been removed because the use of Sealed transmissions have been taking over the market, a sealed trasnmission usually doesnt require check and fill, this is why there is no dipstick, a plug on the side of the tranny upper level will be the access port and where you check for level, once the plug is removed a small ammount should want to leak out. The Reason you stated is simply false, it isnt to rip you off, it is because the equipment is serviced differently,.
GOOD TIP : I've been playing with transmissions for years. Best trick I know is that removing the dirty old transmission fluid on a full flush is bad, BUT..... REDLINE RACING ATF. Listen closely. High synthetic atf's are very slippery, hence, you flush or even change an old dirty trans may make it start slipping. NOW.. Normal Atf's have to be slippery at any level, for the clutch packs to smoothly grip in the shifts. Say you put in Amsoil signature series ATF. That is very slippery. It will make a transmission with weird shift points start shifting correctly and smoother. BUT this is not good for an OLD worn out transmission that has a slip problem. If You remove the dirty trans fluid, and you lose that dirt to help grip in the clutch packs. (which are like brake pads on brake disk in a way, but many of them stacked, that grab when pressed together within the fluid) So taking out that gripping old dirty fluid and putting in something slippery, will just make it slip more or not grab at all..SO., what I learned is that you can put in this Redline Racing Atf and it's FULL SYNTHETIC, it will grip like the old dirty fluid. .... No Friction modifiers, No slippery stuff. IT GRIPS. Racers use it because they want a slap in grab shift, no delays. Yes shifts will be sharp, but sometimes that's great. You can tweak your shifting too if you have room to play, say you still have some material on your clutch packs. You could use oem atf fluid, or oem atf fluid if its a later car, that is synthetic or part synthetic. Add more redline.. shift better, add more oem or full synthetic, You can play with this. It is a thing to people willing to experiment.
I have taken worn out 200k mile transmissions and done almost full flushes, and added the Redline Racing Atf, and had the clutch pack start gripping and start working again. It doesn't work all the time, but if it just started slipping and you start on it right away, you have good chances. AAmco wont offer any of this help, they will sell you an expensive repair. Just like a dentist won't bond your tooth, they will sell you a crown because it makes them more money and is easier, and not return customers with broken bonding.
Think of this. Everyone says "don't remove the old dirty fluid" and many times they're right. BUT. WHO SAYS YOU HAVE TO THROW OUT THE OLD FLUID ?!? SAVE IT ! .. So, if you flush it, and put in great ATF, like a few quarts of Amsoil Signature series ATF (best of the best) which is 100 percent synthetic, which almost all others are just additives (friction modified) to various atf fluids. Then use the rest of the 5-7 quarts with the appropriate Redline Racing atf, there is a thinker fluid for american cars etc, and a lightweight fluid for Hondas for example. If it works, It's going to work a lot longer. If it doesnt, put the old stuff back. And put it back in a home "flush" method, where you put tubes to the buckets, and start the engine, put in 4 quarts, then again 4 quarts, etc... till its all back. You could also do a "change" if it just started slipping, drop the pan, change filter, add in the 3-4-6 quarts of redline racing atf, and see if it starts gripping again, or works like new, who knows.
So if this new fluid change doesn't fix your problem, you can always put the old stuff back in.
No one uses this mindset, I hope I reach 1 person and help them. Tricks of the ATF fluid change.
Can get you many more miles out of your transmission. Research compatibility of every fluid you try. There is a correct ATF for toyota in the Amsoil brand. Redline ATF , make sure it's recommended for your vehicle and if a Honda i'd say the lightweight ATf Redline. High end ATf's will exceed many manufacturers brands, and a single Amsoil Atf will work in very many cars and makes. Must do research.
And there's your Dinner !
Good on you for taking the time to educate us. Cheers!
Thank you. So I bought this 92 chevy silverado with no history so I have been draining the trains fluid and put in a new filter but put the old fluid back in. I was so scared to put new fluid in so I've done this 3 times already about 3000 miles so far between the change. But thank you for the info.
Very good information! Thank you. This is why I do research before I take on a project!
Next video: Why you should NEVER REFUEL YOUR CAR OR NEVER CHANGE YOUR OIL.
Can't want to see those, especially why to never change oil!🤣
I once worked with a man who never changed his oil, being he had to add a quart per week (every 240 or so highway miles. Instead, he change the filter according to highway usage, which I believe was 5,000 miles on that car. Kind of hard not to blame him, if having to add every week to a 20+ year old car, why crawl underneath? While one could argue to 'get the sludge', that's what the filter is for. He does a proper oil change once per year, and installed one of those B&M kits for fast tranny fluid changes every 10,000 miles. A welder installed some type of washer before the kit.
As for filter changes, he doesn't bother because (1) it's always red & uses RedLine ATF & (2), the 10,000 miles is more frequent than the OEM calls for. Around 60-to 90% of owners, depending on who is collecting the numbers, doesn't bother to do an ATF change unless a shop recommends doing so.
I'll forward him this video to show him the importance of changing AT filter & cleaning the pan well. Don't want that magnet to stop doing it's job!🤣
You want.a.ornamet in your.driveway for Halloween
He did a fluid drain, not a mechanical flush. read up on the difference.
Ok but low-key don't flush your transmission
“if its not broken, dont fix it”
I've been doing this for 30 years. Step 1: Loosen the top cooler line going into the trans and connect the hose to drain. I usually pump until bubbles but then I wait a few minutes you will get at least another quart or more then do it again unless you like making a mess. Step 2: Remove pan replace filter, FILTER SEAL, and gasket. Those seals are made to stick to the filter first time they get hot and they will no longer seal reliably being re-used. Step 3: Pour in FIVE quarts of fluid and pump it out again until the fluid runs nice and red. Top it off. No need to do more, or less.
I had this video on mute and it was still too loud.
Doug Zbikowski :)))
It was just right for me , Cuz i don't hear so well anymore! At least he wasn't throwing and flailing his armes and hands around like Scotty
178 PUSSY ASS LIBTARD BITCHS!!!!......TRUMP 2020 UP YOUR ASS'S!!!!LOL
I'd prefer this volume level anyday over those muffled, practically silent movie style videos I routinely come across while on YT.
😂😝🤣
You are screaming even louder than Scotty
haha... I did lower the volume on my computer
Yeah, the dude is a bit hyper.
@@kaffetrakter4174 "stay away from , they're not built like a Toyota or Lexus. Have I mentioned BUY A TOYOTA OR LEXUS?!"
But he's got the dialog of Chris Fix.......IS this what Chris Fix and Scotty combined sound like?
@@shimes424 😂😂😂 and it is Scott speaking 😂
I did this to my 5.7L Ram at about 95,000 miles. Initially it shifted a little strange but I'm guessing the computer figured itself out and now it shifts firmer and smoother than before. Definitely something that SHOULD be done.
How about now? Is the transmission still shifting good?
@@AlexR-on3ct Everything is going great. Smooth and consistent shifts.
@@tag_76The problem is people do this when the transmission is already a lost cause because they waited to late and then they blame the flush
Exactly changing the fluid when it's a lost cause is the problem. The clutch wear is still in the fluid so when they change it it removes clutch material so it slips
No its not the flush, its the fluid used. Most of vavolines and castrols fluids are not at oem viscosities. Oem only!!!
Those 6 ton jacks stands at 4:25 have been recalled by Harbor Freight because of a manufacturing defect that makes it collapse under load.
apparently the jacks were fine. There was a guy who just wanted to use his head as a jack
i had a friends die from the jack stand failure
@@scribtoon7146 nah the jacks are crap. I have a couple. When you lift up on the handle, it should lift up the anvil before dropping it. The 6-ton's from HF dont lift the anvil up, which means it could slip if the handle is bumped or not down all the way. Plus the teeth on the anvil are not long enough, so there's a lot of wiggle room. I only use them in the lowest position now after experimenting with them.
@@frostbite1991 where can I get some good quality jack stands?
@@vegeta9411 go yo Harbor Freight. Get the 6 ton jack stands. Just make sure the anvil goes up when you pull the handle up.. and use only 2 teeth if you're not feeling safe 🤷♂️
As an apprentice mechanic in the uk, I was always taught the the best maintenance I could give a car was an oil change, that's all oils, engines, gearboxes, axles and PAS.
It's good to see you taking the time to show how simple the job is and the oil, before and after.
Good work, keep it up.
simple but hard work lol
When we used to change the fluid this way, we would run the trans through Rev, Neutral, Drive, Low, several times to flush all the passage ways in the valve body and clutches as well.
No reason to ever flush it. A waste of time that shortens its life. People brag they flush them and the trans lasts 200K..well if you didn't flush it would have lasted 500K
@@robertwadas that's a terrible recommendation, I've been a heavy duty mechanic for over 20 years, specialising in hydraulics. Fluids are a lot better than they used to be, but they certainly aren't 500k good, or even 200. lifetime fluids are lifetime of the warranty basically, they should be changed at 100k , if not earlier. Just because they look clean, doesn't mean they are still optimal.
Everyone has a story about their transmission lasting forever without being touched, but it doesn't mean it's good practice. You'll find more failures from not looking after them than people doing preventative maintenance on them.
@@Brettj77 The mechanic is saying same thing. I have never changed it on any car and some hit 500K. Best bet is to put luberplate. I have been an ASE Mastertech since 1986 and worked directly with hydraulic oil companires and taken apart heavy equiptment that actually uses a heavier detergent. If you plan on keeping your car over 300K, maybe the oild today may be better, I trust as it will help keep warranties good. I am not familiar with todays auto trans, I dont keep most cars anywhere past 300K. I guess I def. could be wrong, as we run Cummins trucks with only changing outside oyl filter on leases of 500 K. I guess being a mechanic, I just dont bother as I can pull out a trand, get a kit, rebuild and install as much as a non mechanic would pay double my cost to do that. A mechanics car is noticible cause its usually the loudest as we let mufflers have to fall off before fixing exhaust. I mean my 1982 vette, auto trans is perfect and I would be scared to change trans fluid ! you know it has gunked up material on clutches. When I add, I find lubriplate is good for end and trans.I dont work on the newer cars. Im glad , trans fluid smells !
ASE mechanic .... Nuff said. Lol.
@@robertwadas you’re shyt’en me right
I did this exact same method. 1995 GMC SIERRA K1500 5.7 4L60 TRANSMISSION 190,000 miles. 5,600 miles later, ABSOLUTELY Amazing. The transmission has Zero...nada...zilch problems; it shifts like a dream....perfectly smooth. No slipping issue at all. The difference was like night and day.
Updates?
@@101trayday 31,000 miles and the transmission operates perfectly.
@@timallen3166 thanks for replying brother
Was it having any trouble before you did the work, or was it purely preventive?
@@nevillenewman2785 The transmission felt sluggish...the shift points were not predictable.The complete flush and filter completely fix the issues. I did this to my 2016 Chevy Spark also. (Preventive). Make sure to use high quality, correct transmission fluid and parts (AC DELCO not cheap Chinese garbage). Side note: If you have done the flush described in the video and are having shudder issues, try Lubegard 19610 Instant Shudder Fix. If you are feeling "jerk" down or up shifts, try Lubegard 60902 Transmission Fluid Protectant.
I have been a automotive service technician for 30 years. And I know this is a 5 year old video, but having watched it. I have to say that this is definitely 12 minutes of how not to change your transmission fluid. That so called flush by it's self could smoke the clutch packs and damage the converter with the lost fluid pressure.
THANK YOU for speaking up so I can hear you. I was so pleased that I had to reduce the volume a small amount on my Laptop - cause UN-like lots of videos, I actually hear what you were saying. As a former transmission mechanic I can say most of this is correct.
"Why You Should NEVER FLUSH YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID!!" (proceeds to flush out tranmission)
What he did ia not even a flush. It was fluid replacement only but he he called it a "flush". He's a confused guy.
I was thinking the very same thing after watching...well it did get me to watch so there ya go.
I wouldn’t flush it at a shop I think they use pressure and you will end up with more leaks than you had I’d change it but not flush I guess he don’t know the difference
I ABSOLUTELY AGREE, for example when he shows the metal in the old filter, I considered that the filter WAS doing its job. I have seen many screw-ups by kids working at quick oil change shops doing real damage at this. I currently am driving a 21 year old Buick LeSabre with over 100,000 mils and the HORRIBLE :-) original fluid in it and it shifts and works perfectly. This transmission fluid change is like the air filter scam, or the NITROGEN tire inflation stuff. I know you cant hear me but I am SCREAMING just like he did, but I am saying "IF IT ISNT BROKE, dont touch that transmission".
It's called 'click-bait'....
ALL YOU GUYS OUTSIDE OF THE RUST BELT ARE SPOILED lol
thing is so clean. Never find a truck that clean in NY
I stay in Florida. My sister bought a Nissan that just came from Rhode island. I have never seen so much rust under a vehicle I know working on the suspension is gonna be a complete nightmare 😭
Or in pa. Salt kills
pffffft NY try the upper Midwest. Our undersides rot like no ones business with all the salt the roads get. lol
Meanwhile I had a Canadian friend flexing some 20 year old daily driver that was in really good shape. They salt their too, he said the secret was the car got undercoated every year since new. I'm skeptical, but willing to try given its just $100 a year at my local Krown
@@cpufreak101 guess it depends on who coats it. If you haven't done it then its probably not worth it on even a 2 year car. If its a bad coat job it will trap moisture and salt and eat it from the under the undercoat. *EDIT* (I forgot krown is a fluid film vs some of the oil goop like undercoating *) The best advice I've come to know from winter driving is get your car washed often in the winter. 2 times a week if you can, especially after a major salting of the roads.
Hello, dude, I like your videos. As a non native English speaker, I don't need to turn on the closed captions. Your voice is so clear, showing your sincerity and eagerness to share useful and helpful knowledge with people in need of it. Keep up good work.
BACK FLUSH is what you might do to cooling system.
BACK FLUSH is what you NEVER want to do on a transmission.
FORWARD FLUSH (i.e., just REPLACE) is okay.
--
Things I do different:
#1 I use a short (nipple size) steel line that I hose clamp a hose to
rather than relying on threading a hose into the radiator
#2 Use a plastic trashcan, not a drain pan, to catch the used fluid
#3 Continuously pour new fluid into trans-fluid inlet while the old is being pumped out
Yes, you might use 3-4 times the fluid capacity of the trans just for one change
Considering how often this fluid change is done, it is worth it.
You do NOT want to see bubbles in the old fluid, you instead want to see clean fluid coming out the hose.
He wasn't back-flushing though. That would require an external pump to pump fluid back into that hose he had hooked up to the radiator. That was a simple flush, although I wouldn't let air get to the pump. Quart or 2 out, quart or 2 in.
@John Doe I think you're right. I think it's best if you just drain the pan and add the same amount of new fluid that you've just drained. Then drive it for a few days. Then do the drain and fill again. This process will introduce the new fluid slowly. Eventually the old fluid will get diluted and be mostly new. I would only do this if you have a transmission drain plug. Removing the pan each time would be a pain in the butt!!! Again, this method is for the slow introduction of the new fluid. *****Those reading this because your already feeling or hearing problems in your transmission will probably not gain any benefit from doing this. It would be less harsh on your trans, but I think your trans is too far gone already. Do this method BEFORE you start to have problems and I bet your trans will last much longer!
@@myemail2005 ..Fractional dilution.
much like a brake bleed...#3 makes sense
I'm watching this while sitting on the toilet. I'm about to flush it real quick here.
Me too
Me currently
Same
jajajaja
Im droppin a dump and it made me poop harder
I will add this. Despite people poking at you I found it very interesting how you did it. Thank you. Good Job!
Another technique that is more time consuming due to making this a 3 step multi day procedure by having 2 assistants help you. one to start and stop the engine, one to monitor the old fluid coming out and you to pour in the new fluid as the old is going out. for the sake of simplicity, let's say your tranny holds 12 qts. including the torque converter. Set up the hoses as you did, then have 2 empty gallon clear plastic jugs like milk or distilled water on hand. Then as you signal the "starter" to get the motor running, have your funnel in place and a gallon of new fluid while your "catcher" is ready to monitor the old fluid. As best you can pour the fluid in the funnel simultaneously while the old is collecting in the empty jug. Have the catcher yell STOP to the starter as the milk jug gets close to the top. IF you haven't finished emptying the new fluid into the tranny, finish that. Then switch out collection jugs and get another new gallon ready for round 2. Repeat this process with the 2nd gallon and shut the motor off and reconnect the lines and check the fluid level. Two gallons in and two gallons out shouldn't need much topping off. Then drive the vehicle a couple hundred miles and then set up the flush trio once again.
Run the same operation doing 2 1 gallon flush procedures, hook things back up again and drive another couple hundred miles. The third time only do 1 gallon of flushing and shut the motor down . Now pull the tranny pan and filter do the cleaning and brake cleaner stuff and new gasket and bolt torquing. Top off the fluid according to manufacturer's instructions and you have just done a $400 tranny flush for about $150 worth of fluid and filter.
The reason you do this in steps is to avoid "douching" the old tranny fluid all at once with all new fluid because all new fluid could easily shake loose dirt in the system and all of a sudden you have a filter that's overwhelmed by the gunk and tranny fluid passages that clog and the tranny doesn't shift right. By doing it in steps, you avoid the mass of dirt and gunk as the gallons you pour in will mix with the old and gradually clean things out at a pace that the old filter can handle. By the third step, you're ready to replace the filter and put the new one in. Now you have effectively flushed out the torque converter by driving it several hundred miles on increasingly cleaner tranny fluid so when you finally drain the pan and top off the level your new filter will be filtering nearly 95% new fluid .
Yes, this is pretty anal retentive, but if you don't know how old your tranny fluid is, this is the safe way to do it. It could very well save you a $3-4,000 transmission repair/replacement.
Jimmy, I like your style!! Keep up the good work man.
I must say this. These DAMN CAR COMPANIES SHOULD PUT A DRAIN BOLT IN THE PANS.
Toyota does
They have a kit to drill your pan to install a drain bolt. Love mine. So much easier
@@Khaztr Yuppers! 96 Tacoma - DRAIN PLUG!
@@Khaztr Yup, my xB has one.
Why would Ford make it easier for you to do a fluid change? Now, they put the frickin' dipstick, a 3" one, under the vehicle, when you have to check the transmission fluid level. Rocket science.
Drain/change the fluid.... sure
Drop the pan/cover.... sure
Change the filter.... sure
*NEVER RUN YOUR TRANSMISSION DRY*
Exactly my thought. If you're just going to flush by dilution anyhow then there's no reason to run it dry. Pump a couple quarts out, add a couple quarts, repeat.
Go back to OZ ...WRONG!!! the jenner is in park and still is lubed for the short time the flush takes
I’m agreeing with these guys, what your doing is bypassing the lubrication circuit of the transmission. Right after the trans cooler, trans fluid goes straight to the bearings of the shafts and with you putting fluid into a bucket, instead of back into the transmission, you are running the trans dry of fluid and scoring bearings within the transmission. Always do drain and refill and change filter. Flushing is for very low mileage vehicles and you need proper flushing machine that keeps good fluid going into lubrication circuit
You're right. The sequence is off. I would drain and replace filter then fill then purge or flush the old fluid. Besides all old fluid will go to the return line which is dump in the drain pan. He basically run it dry. Good thing he has a disclaimer.
Hmm. Is it possible to put a catch can for old transmission fluid, then take the transmission cooler line and put it in a bucket of clean new fluid? Would that break it? Or not work?
EDIT: I did something like Jimmy did on a grand marquis.. it was high miles (like 17.5k miles per year average) but it still ran fine and I took it through many states, even covering one of them (Tennessee)!
"NEVER Flush your transmission!"
FLUSHES the transmission?!?!?!
P M this is not considered a flush. It uses the internal transmission pump. Flushing generally means hooking up an external machine that has its own pump and pushes for lack of a better word new fluid throughout the transmission. Quite different end results.
@@condor5635 Still doesn't get around to vehemently explaining "why you shouldn't".
Pynaegan because using an external machine with its own pump (and unknown pressures etc) is thought to be more likely to dislodge particles etc. that could then clog up ports etc. The internal pump would not do this
The way I see it, He did a complete change and even changed the filter. If he were to just flush it, the pan never would have come undone and the filter would still be in place. You remember the magnet with the shavings? There could be more!
Do as I say! Do not do as I do.
My 2003 s-10 Chevy truck 2.2l I done the flush exactly following the same steps on your video only have a 84000 original miles ....it shifts like a dream ....thanks Jimmy for your great advice..GOD blessed you
There is a big difference between a low pressure flush as per done in this case. And a full high pressure flush that could further damage your clutches using a flushing machine. So yes and thankyou for your xtra educational vid.
Nope, learned my lesson with a 99 tahoe. I purchased it with 140k miles on it and as a preventative maintenance flushed the tranny, ended up rebuilding it less than 5k miles later. LOL My theory is, if its been neglected, keep neglecting it till it dies.
Or... You're a moron and added DEX/MERC blend...
Fucking Walmart bought me a new tranny after literally telling them.. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING UNDER MY HOOD... DO NOT EVEN POP MY HOOD.. they fried my flywheel timing kit from Edelbrock, and the entire add-on fuel injection system. Added engine oil to a brand new Stage one transmission.
They did a battery load test.. backwards with crusy old equipment that literally had bottle tops where the fuses should be..
ALL I WANTED WAS TIRES INSTALLED....!!!
Actually @1D10CRACY You are right if you have high milage (100k plus) on a vehicle and have no idea when the trans-fluid was changed last you could do a lot more damage changing it than just leaving it be until you need a new one.
You're playing with borrowed time no matter what.
Youre problem was getting your car worked on at walmart to begin with.
@@slappychap969 Seriously WTF 😐
You shouldn't take the pan off like that. You had it right in the beginning, but trying to take it off level never works. So when you get down to the last couple of bolts on one side, or one corner, just start loosening those up. As the pan slowly tilts, it will pour more fluid out of the pan from the opposite corner. keep doing that until you run out of one of the bolts. Now you have one left. Push the pan back up flat, remove the last bolt, _then_ lower the pan flat as you can. You'll have much less fluid to deal with and it's far less likely to spill in your face.
That is the way I drop the transmission pans.
@@billmorris2613 Me too!👍
That’s the way my dad taught me.
Bit 01 I still wonder why they do not put a drain plug in a transmission pan.
@@billmorris2613 I guess because it doesn't get changed out very often. I've seen drain plugs in stock pans, but rarely.
I have a 2010 gmc Sierra with 143k. I just flushed the transmission fluid. It made a big difference in how smooth my shifting is. The fluid was old and dark but didn't stink. I didn't think I would feel a difference, but it really made my transmission buttery smooth.
Listening to this I feel the urge to buy some flex seal 😂
he needs some flex condoms. no wood there.
As a mechanic of 15 years anyone that thinks you should NEVER do an auto flush is asking for trouble.
Agreed! Done 2 since I bought my 03 yukon at 130k and now has 242k common sense its auto clutch material wears it.has a filter for a reason ! Gotta change it out
Itza rumor started by the trans rebuilders.
@@hotrodray6802 ford Australia says the auto is sealed 4 life. A kit and fluid is $200 a new trans from ford $4300. I know why they say never do it.
@@robertfloresjr8513 all that clutch material will eventually plug up small shifting passages, but in most cases the clutches are worn out by then anyway. Agree if you changed the filter where most of material caught when you fill it back up that’s enough.
I know everyone saying it lasts forever... it gets black and smells burnt
I would say, don't screw the vinyl hose into the radiator cooler. Buy a fitting, it might be brass or it might be plastic, screw it in and fit a hose over the fitting. I say this because a fragment of vinyl could end up in the valve body.
I've never understood people saying never change your trans fluid. "My buddy's trans quit right after he changed the fluid". Well, yeah that's because it had 200k miles on the original fluid and was slipping, so he changed the fluid and the transmission continued to grenade itself like it was already going to.
That's like saying right after I changed my oil (after running the car with the oil light on for 300 miles) the engine seized! Never change your oil!
If a flush killed your transmission, you were on borrowed time period. If the ancient fluid was what is keeping friction material in play then it is only a matter of time.
Don't go flushing it willy nilly now, but keep things in perspective.... Poor maintenance is what bites you in the rear, not what you "do".
Yes! Exactly!!!
Exactly.
Totally agree!
7:17 Just a suggestion, I use popsicle sticks to take the old gasket off. The razor blade, might etch the rim of the pan.
Or a plastic panel removal tool :p
Smart idea!!
The myth about flushing your transmission came about in the old days before Lock-Up Converters. During that time transmission temperatures would get pretty high and bake the internal seals. When that happens that old, thick, chocolate color fluid would build up a layer of varnish in the pistons, drums and servos. It would act as a seal holding fluid pressure. The clean and highly detergent new fluid would wash out that varnish and cause a pressure loss in the hydraulic circuit. When that happens you transmission will begin to slip or fail to engage at all. However, with the new cooler running transmissions flushing is a great way of keeping it working great. I've even had slipping transmission begin to work better after a flush and continue to do so for many years later. The MotorVac Transmission flush works great, very easy to use, eliminates the mess associated with transmission service and after service pan leaks.
But it wasn't a myth because it actually DID mess up lots of people's transmissions!! how is that a myth? Why would anyone trust these flush machines now? that's ridiculous
@@Fremen02 That was not a myth prior to lock up converters. Because torque converters created a lot of heat which broke down fluid and harden the internal seals. However, it would build up a thick varnish that internal helped the internal seals. When flushed it would remove that varnish causing the seals to loose pressure. Varnish did not reduce pressure but did reduce volume. Resulting on slower clutch engagement causing more wear on the fiber clutches and creating hot spots on the steels. That's just the short explanation. Anyhow, I've done hundreds of demonstrations across the U.S. and have solved many transmission issues with a MotorVac flush unit. I also have 30 years experience as a transmission builder, shop owner and another 10 years instructing others. It still is amazing that the current myth or lie still continues.
Technically, this was not a "Flush". This was a "Drain and Fill"...
A true trans flush is done by a machine that extracts the old fluid, pumps in and circulates cleaning agents, extracts that and then pumps in new trans fluid. All done under pressure.
Trans flushes are only recommended for vehicles that have trans flushes done at regular intervals since day one. And even a machine flush doesn't remove 100% of the old fluid, plus it may also leave some solvent behind which can damage the components. It can also loosen and dislodge old sludge in an already worn out trans that will almost certainly cause it to fail much sooner.
I learned the hard way...years ago I had 97 Mitsu Diamante with a slight trans slip. I took it to a quick lube shop and did a trans flush with the machine and the transmission crapped out 3 days later, would not shift into gear.
Moral of the story...Just drop the pan and do a drain and fill, especially on an older vehicle. Much safer than a machine flush.
Either way, Good vid.
I'M NOT DEAF!! Please speak normally!! You are NOT Billy Mays trying to sell Oxy Clean...
Isnt billy mays dead?
You're funny, man
But WAIT... there's more.!!!
I was thinking the same thing. Why is he yelling???
I thought I'm the only one who noticed it haha...
Love the video/tutorial. With your confidence and outlook, it's encouraging after having heard for years all the warnings, doom and gloom of changing trans fluid. A bonafide transmission shop refused my request for the service you just performed. They said they wouldn't guarantee it would operate well enough afterwards to get me one block down the street. I have an '06 Lincoln Mark LT with Semi-original transmission fluid - What I started doing periodically is siphoning out (thru the fill tube) and replacing 3 - 4 quarts at a time - gradually introducing fresh fluid into the system. I figure after several cycles I'll eventually have diluted and replaced all the old fluid, without a sudden "shock" to the system caused by all fresh at once. Of course this doesn't address the cruddy filter and pan.
The filter media still has to be addressed and most cases dropping the pan and replacing the gasket which most models required depending on the manufacturer, changing filter is always recommended along with the fuel filter change and as well as cleaning off the magnet on the pan
If the transmission has regular maintenance there is zero risk to flushing, same for all fluid systems in vehicles. If you have a high mileage car that never had regular maintenance or you dont know the maintenance history then your rolling the dice on a flush.
@Raymond Jayme the lesseon u learned should not be that u shouldnt change a trans fluid if it is high milage and hasn't been changed it should be that u shouldnt be an idoit and buy truck with out checking the trans fluid and not be in this predicament in the first place and by truck with regular maintenance had been done and wont blow ur transmission with u give it a flush
If you do routine maintenance then you have zero need to flush the transmission.
@@killer2600 not true, because when you drain the pan on an automatic transmission you only get about a third of the fluid out.the only way to get it all out is with a flush. That's why you should do a flush every 3rd or 4th time you service your trans...
james meadows ok do do a drain and refill on auto Lexus with 200k miles with no previous maintenance history? Not a flush but drain like 3.5 quarts and refill
@@jrdm87 You NEVER get all the old fluid out. To do that you have to tear down the transmission and cut open the torque converter.
This guy has endless energy (heart) to keep all that extra energy from start to finish. 🤙
...for no purpose or use whatsoever.
The video was enjoyable and covered the basics. Anyone that's annoyed by this guy's voice or lack of mechanical knowledge should tune out and skip the negative comments. Keep up the good work!!!
uh mechanical knowledge is the purpose of the video and getting it right is the difference between good and a 2000+ dll Trans getting trashed. this isnt everyone gets a trophy be nice...
Amen. Why can’t people say what they want without trashing what someone else is doing. If you’re watching this you should be doing other research as well for the project at hand, but hiding in your house and name calling or bashing what others are offering as their experience is cowardice in the least and honestly like my departed father use to say, if you’re going to talk about me, talk to me but if you’re going to talk to me like some of these people, protect your neck.
3 things that are best done in a shop with a lift: 1. Transmission fluid change, 2. Differential fluid change, 3. Exhaust repair. Excellent video
I've done all of those outside with jack stands. Money saved is in thousands.
@@Herbertti3 Nobody said it couldnt be done, just that it was Best done with a lift.
@@datdabdoe1417 Did I somehow hint that lift isn't best for it?
@@Herbertti3Yes you did by implying such with your original comment.
I just changed out the transmission fluid on a 2003 Buick Century with 69,000 miles on the 4T65e model.
I changed out the pan to an aftermarket aluminum model with cooling fins.
The fluid was very dark amd there was a large amount of debris. The magnet was full of metal shavings.
I replaced the filter and bolted up the new pan. Filled the transmission with 8 quarts. Then I pulled the line out of the radiator and started the engine, pumping another four quarts out of the torque converter. I filled the transmission with another 4 quarts. I used a total of 12 quarts of AC Delco fully synthetic Dexron VI fluid which is backwards compatible with Dexron III.
I ran into one complication. I twisted the head off of one of the bolts while torquing it down. I had to replace the single bolt. That was a job. I had to drill into the bolt and lightly hammered a star driver into it. It twisted out relatively easily. The new bolt went right in.
The replacement pan has a drain plug which will make the next fluid change so much easier.
I am in full agreement that one should change out the transmission fluid regularly.
Especially seeing the amount of debris on the magnet and the appearance of the old fluid. While I did not take the time to open up the old filter, it probably looked much like the filter in this 4L60e transmission.
Anyhow, nice video.
It definitely depends on the mileage and upkeep of the vehicle as well as make and model if you have an older American made vehicle with 200k on It and it’s never had a transmission flush, do not flush It. It will cause major slipping and may become completely undriveable without a transmission rebuild. If you have a vehicle like this that’s older but only has around 80k miles you should be totally fine servicing the transmission changing the filter out and changing the fluid, remember most manufacturers recommend you get a trans flush every 60k-75k miles so he’s literally not that late for a transmission flush. The reason mechanics will tell you not to do a trans flush is because you have an old vehicle with a huge amount of mileage on It that has a bunch of dirty fluid that is actually helping the transmission still run, you change out that fluid though with a worn transmission and all that gunk is gone and clean fluid makes It slip. It’s that simple. If that doesn’t apply to you, you should definitely get your transmission serviced when your vehicle manufacturers tell you to. The problem is a lot of mechanics run into people with transmissions on their last leg trying to just get a transmission flush thinking it’s gonna help but it’ll just make things worse. So to save you the money and the mechanic the time and stress they let you know that you need to get a transmission rebuild or a whole new transmission.
I'm kinda hard of hearing (partly disabled vet) and the sound level was/is perfect.
Hilarious
Ex artillery?
WOW - your GM looks so clean underneath. This is a well maintained vehicle - very impressed.
for a 24 year old truck it looks almost new! Inside and out from what we could see!! Keep up the good work!!
Thank you for showing how to flush/change the transmission fluid. This is something that most drivers ignore.
All fluids used in our vehicles have a factory-recommended change cycle. Following these recommendations is key to a long service life from the vehicles. Our shop is located 35 miles from a major city. Folks who live out here but work in the city put on around 70,000 miles each year. With proper maintenance, getting over 300,000 miles and more from a vehicle is quite common.
"All fluids used in our vehicles have a factory-recommended change cycle. Following these recommendations is key to a long service life from the vehicles"....BMW, Subaru, Mercedes and others have for many years had so-called "lifetime" trans fluid. There is no change cycle. Auto manufacturers are in business to make money, not sell cars. Change ATF every 60K miles or less if severe duty. Simple.
Do an update 2 to 3 years later and let us know if the trans is still running im curious
As a ASE tech yes ! Oil breaks down must be changed when needed !
There is a better way to remove the oil from the trans oil pan than what you did. . The way I do it is remove all but three bolts on the pan, I let two bolts at one end of the pan, and the 3rd bolt at the opposing end of the pan. You then loose halfway all 3 bolts , then with a hand support the pan at the end where there is one bolt, and with your other hand remove that bolt, by doing that, you will be able to let the pan tilt down that will cause the oil overflow the pan and fall into a collecting pan underneath, while The other 2 bolts are supporting the opposing end of the pan. the more inclination, the more oil will drop and eventually, most of the oil will drain out, to the container that you should have put underneath before, by now the pan is very light and therefore, remove the two bolts and drop the pan entirely and empty the remaining oil . There is no mess and you have total control.
After seeing the title, I thought, "hmm, lets see why this guy thinks I should never do this", so I watched it.
Guess which bit o' knowledge I'm still missing. -_-
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. Wtf man
😂😂😂😂😂😂 me too!!
Same lol
I’ve been mechanic for years and saw this so had to watch and I’m just as lost lmao.. I guess we all clearly missed his point.
NvrUseYur RealName I think the title is him being facetious. But I have heard some mechanics say that it should not be changed. But the auto manufactures recommend changing it every 50 to 75, 000 miles. I do it to my cars and get over 200,000 miles out of the transmissions. I have always owned GM products except for my first car that was a 57 Ford Fairlane. Sold it when I got a good deal on a 66 Impala SS. Every thing since then has been a GM product.
If your trans fluid is brown, its getting burned due to the friction plates being worn down to the metal base. So now there is metal rubbing on metal getting very hot and burning the fluid .
Changing the fluid will not help. The trans needs rebuilding.
yoyo762 it will be brown after about 30 - 40 k miles no matter what.
@@davepeck4045 No, it won't be brown if the transmission is working properly.
It should stay reasonably reddish even after 100k miles.
The stuff this OP is posting is brown-brown and that is a sign of a failing transmission where a fluid change will do nothing.
@@yoyo762 It looks browner on your hnd. On white paper it will not be as bright of red as new.
@@robertwadas I hope no one takes your advice.
My brother's car with 90 k miles on it has very pink/red trans fluid.
Brown is oil getting burned.
and for 10 bucks or so, you could have added a drain bolt when you had the pan out. I just drain and refill every 36000 miles.
That's probably a bit excessive.
@@TheCarpenterUnion My car calls for a flush every 30k miles. Seems reasonable to me
@@Pippy1 autos are usually every 60-80k. My DSG is the only thing that's ever said 30k
Its a 4l60e. They die quick if the fluid goes. They even make deeper pans with fins and a drain plug. Seems like cheap insurance 🤔
But wait there more
I owned an rx300 and regular trans fluid changes were a must to avoid toasted fluid destroying the trans prematurely. Older trans could go years with so much as the fluid changing colour. If you don't have the ability to do flushes just do two changes very close together and put a trans cleaner in the first change. Ive done that a few times in different cars
I'm in agreement with most of what you said except - "Put a trans cleaner in the first change"... My advise is NEVER put in a transmission additive especially one meant for cleaning! Dumping any sort of solvent into the ATF is asking for trouble and I'd never do it to any car of mine. And don't forget ATF is a powerful solvent all by itself. So there is nothing a solvent is going to do inside the trans that the ATF isn't already doing thus no need for it, and you might make things actually WORSE by an additive.
Bro this titles kill me.... re title the video to read "DIY Trans flush" and not the click bait BS you keep putting up.
Exactly what I thought
Guy made no sense
Yes, and we can flag it to UA-cam for being MISLEADING. The title had me wondering what would go wrong. Along the way, I also determined he can't do math. He removed "about 5 qts" and "put in 4 qts", then removed another 4-5 qts. In the end he's adding back 8.
Funny, I read your comment and watched the video again looking for a trans flush, but all I saw was a guy changing transmission fluid.
It's on purpose so he makes more views.
I'm a retired Toyota MDT. We flushed every auto trans every 30k and had no come backs, But with our Lexus/Toyota systems all went to Syn Oil, which raises the price for flushing. My advice is drain all that will come out. put drain plug back and add, two quarts of new Syn Trans fluid and start and drain again,. Then pull the pan and install a new transmission filter. Clean to Magnates in the pan. Put it all back together. Fill with proper Syn Trans Fluid and never drive till fluid is at full line.
On the cooler fitting. In my best Yoda voice: "Crescent wrench leads to vice grips. Vice grips leads to the dark side of gnarly, rounded off fitting."
A Jedi uses his flare nut wrench light saber. Use the force.
If it sticks, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
Navy maintenance manual, per Chief Petty Officer Duhhuh
@Jay Smith so by using wd40 you can use the improper tool for the job?
The way he put the pan on was perfect. That is where most people mess up and have issues later.
Keeping the bolts in the same hole is stupid unless some of the bolts are of different lengths no need to keep them separated that's just over kill !!!
If you're uncomfortable with a "Flush" after all the hoopla about potential damage, simply fully drain the old stuff out, change the filter, and refill with fresh Premium fluid made for you car.....way damn better than doing Nothing
Love the "Cardboard Template" for the pan bolts.
Flush Everything!!!
Completely pointless since all bolts are the same
😂
@@jessjohn6157
Good to know thanks
If the video title says "never flush your transmission fluid". Then why are you doing that?
He's not flushing, he's replacing the oil.
He's doing a fluid change, not a flush.
Flushing wouldn’t include dropping and cleaning the pan, removing all the particles on the magnet and installing a new filter (I guess) but just changing the oil.
He is flushing the transmission. The video title was originally different I think, it doesn't make sense with the video now.
@@killer2600
Flushing requires a machine, which pressurises new fluid into the trans, and retrieving the old... which could cause particles to get stuck in valves and other small orifices...
The is fluid replacement.
People commenting on the volume will be delighted to know there are a plethora of volume control options built in to every device imaginable. You're supposed to use those at your own discretion to raise or lower the volume of the content you're watching.
The fluid is brown mud because of clutch wear. You've got worn steels turning on burnt clutches held in by a bunch of hard old seals. You've just changed the viscosity of the transmission fluid, making it even more slippery. Now its just like new! What could possibly go wrong? If you didn't change it at the service intervals, leave it alone and start saving up for a rebuilt unit.
You sound like a mix between ChrisFix Scotty Kilmer.
I don't know how I feel about this, but you are incredibly informative.
I was waiting for him to say "Out with the old......IN WITH THE NEW"
@@badm0t0rf1ng3r
Lol yes!
Nice job. I usually warm the trans up ,Get biggest drain pain you can find first loosen all the pan bolts and let excess fluid drain , then hold pan up and take out 3 sides of bolts except for the opposite side that I wish pan to tilt to. Remove pan , remove filter. The filter seal is easier than you think . Just V it inwards with a awl and hammer and use a deep socket to drive in new filter seal. It is a good idea to make sure all valve body bolts seem snug. Clean pan and magnets , install new filter. Over fill the trans a couple quarts from what was drained. Remove cooler line or hose and also run a hose from end of disconnected line or hose into a drain pan .Start and run vehicle and back light the fluid coming out to see when it comes out clean and turn off engine, add to trans what came out and subtract the 2 extra quarts you overfilled to figure what you need to add , then warm transmission and recheck level for what you still need to add, and hopefully no flare on shifting or need to add Lucas Transmission Mucas , LOL
Stay away from the dealer sold flush services that use cleaner solvent or that don't address changing the sump filter .
2001 Ford Focus, bought new, close to 300,000 miles, NEVER had trans flushed or changed.
Great u have been successful in proving to everyone ur a complete idiot and have a small amount of luck or jus drive ur car like a old person less than 25 mph its whole life
My brother had the same year model. It had ni transmission problems but loads of others. 300k miles? Not going to say you're lying but can't back you up in saying you're saying the truth. Very hard to believe unless you have fixed every problem on your own. That would mean endless repairs because of emotional attachment to your car. Like Scotty says: endless money pit.
Next Fluid/ Filter change please add a Drain Plug Kit! Lots easier and cleaner for all the Fluid/ Filter Changes after that.
I had an old 96 Ford Falcon, the owners manual sadi to change the trans fluid every 90,000 km. I asked my mechanic and he said to just drop the fluid and let as much as possible drain out. I changed the fluid 4 times (I clocked up 480,000 km in 16 years) and never had a problem. The trans didn't slip or fail to change up or down and was always smooth and quiet. I towed trailers, went on long trips with the family and the car loaded up, used the roofracks too so the trans was put under load on occasion but never gave a problem. I don't know if flushing a trans will cause harm but you should at least change the fluid and filter at certain intervals to keep the trans running smooth.
Heat is the #1 transmission killer. Do you have an external cooler on the tranny? And or do you live in a cooler environment? Do you drive mostly highway or high city stop & go traffic Do you tow or carry heavy load?? All those conditions WILL make a HUGE difference in the life and performance of the transmission. If your driving habits are non aggressive style and your all highway, cool environment, and have a external cooler, just those things alone will darn near double the life of the tranny alone. Heat, aggressive driving, lots of stop and go, towing and no external cooler will make the tranny run hot all the time and will break the fluid down reducing the effectiveness of fluid characteristics. Changing fluid should be done more often depending on conditions and habits. If your driving in ideal conditions and with external cooler and "light foot" on the gas & break peddle it can go longer on the change. The factory "recommended" intervals is exactly that "recommended". When it comes to transmissions I NEVER follow the book on change intervals. I ONLY follow intervals on the engine since we are dealing with a completely different system with completely different circumstances that the engine deals with daily, but thats another story. Anyway, I have always had good luck with my vehicles just doing how I do it. It also helps having a brother that owns an automotive repair shop and good at what he does with REAL knowledge and experience on the subject. My brother does not recommend NOT changing fluid in a "sealed" unit. He said a sealed transmission still goes through the same stuff the older non sealed units go through. So he recommends the usual maintenance fluid/filter change depending on the conditions and habits atleast once or twice or many times during its life.
That's funny- when you said it was old, I was thinking about an old 1964 Ford Falcon I used to have.
Best 11:56 min invested in a video, gr8 video, very professional. All the way entertaining and didactic
I usually support the pan with a small jack with a piece of wood on it, remove all the bolts, then bleed jack slowly and pull out... but hey, some people dont mind fluids all over their face...
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
A Finned aluminum oil pan With the drain plug is less than $75 delivered to your front door. making drain very sensible from here
Plus the Aluminum reservoir cooling affect you benefit from.
I just installed one few hours ago.
Tomorrow will do the run-purge scenario like you demonstrated here.
Did this on old Caddys, Mercedes Diesels, etc. The Mercs gave a drain plug in both the drain pan AND the torque converter. Designed by the gods (made to be serviced)
I had a Lincoln mark 7 lsc, last year made and the torque converter had a drain plug,,, should be standard on all automatic transmissions.
Chevy Turboglides had them too, the only thing about a turboglide that was good.
@@Augie1979 Should be a law.
Yes they do! My f250 has a drain plug on transmission and torque converter. I just changed my again and was able to get about 14 quarts out of a 17 quart system. No pumping just simply drain and I drained the trans cooler and used a air hose to blow the lines. I even use some friction modifier for the rear differential in the transmission fluid( it won't hurt it, only helps) and the results are amazing can't fill the transmission shift.
My merc tranny leaks constantly from all of the seals and the pan, so I just top it up. Never needs a change!
78k I would do it after a smell test. If it smelled burnt, then it's a crapshoot. I would like to mention you are fortunate to have the shift cable bracket bolted with the pan bolts instead of those torx bolts above in the case. Also the exhaust wasn't in the way and dang man, living in northern New England it would be a treat to work on an old thing like that.
You lost me when you used the crescent wrench instead of a line wrench...your next video can teach us how to repair rounded off transmission cooler lines.
Wont round them if you know how to use the tools.
Jason Malley, you're correct, as well as using a quality crescent wrench, with tight tolerances. NOT one bought at Walmart,etc.
Crescent is a brand. It's an adjustable wrench. Lol and yes only but name brand tools not Stanley walmart junk.
My bad...I meant adjustable wrench/spanner wrench...lol...All mine are off tool trucks
@@MilitantMalley Rounding off is not the issue. You can easily force the nut out of round using an adjustable or open end wrench. The correct tool to use is a flare nut wrench which engages 4 or 5 (depending on the design) of the corners and does not squeeze the hollow nut.
5 months ago I knew nothing about car. I didn't even know how to change oil. Now I rebuilt 3 44RE and 2 42RE on 5 different jeeps and currently boring a rebuilt 4.0 cyl to 4.2...2020 Covid lock down gave me so much time to explore the ability I never had. It was the best year ever.
You can easily drill a hole in the drain pan, and weld or braze a nut onto the outside of the hole as a homemade bung hole. Then add a bolt with crush washer to it and you now have a drain hole.
Montana Software I think Dorman makes a nylon gasket one that you can tighten in place after you make a hole.
Lol, bunghole.
"YOU LITERALLY HAVE TO APPLY TONS OF PRESSURE TO THREAD IT IN!!!" (proceeds to hand-tighten it with his fingers)
mechanics hands and fingers are far stronger than the average guy.
And seasoned mechanic will use extension and socket to get them hand right. Running them down with fingers is pointless. Idiot use powered device that don’t know what there doing.
I never flush. I change the fluid very often instead. I just extract and empty the oil pan from the dipstick tube.
No mess at all. The same goes for when I am replacing the filter and cleaning the magnet. No need to make a mess by removing an oil pan full of oil.
@Blue Skies Why do you think my nuts are loose?
The last JIFFYLUBE transaction job left me with an error code for the transaction solenoid. When I drained the fluid I found the magnets missing as well as the transmission filter! I ended up doing my own transmission change. Unfortunately the error is still there. I could only think somewhere in the valve body got clogged with metallic particles..
You did a perfect job from my experience with these. Ive been doing this stuff for awhile and i can tell you that you should ALWAYS keep your fluid clean (sidenote: although the fluid in your truck was due it really wasnt all that bad for the miles and age, the prior owner was easy on it or cared for it i can tell) the times i have heard or seen a trans fail after a fluid change the transmission was already so close to death from not being maintained it was soon to die anyhow. Anyway you did it right with a good choice in fluid and didnt spill enough to bitch about, great job.
The magnet comes off. Clean it and put it back on the spot marked for it.
One of the great debates of the auto industry. I have even had transmission shops tell me not to even drain transmission fluid if there wasn't a problem. As far as a flush goes, it's either the greatest thing for your transmission, or it will kill your transmission and the transmission's ghost will haunt your family forever. I'm pretty sure it's one of the two.
If you have a woman driving a car you're paying for and she never has the transmission serviced, just kill her. It's cheaper in a long run...
I would recommend finding a new mechanic. The manufacturer of nearly every single vehicle recommends doing so at 60 to 100k miles. Are you telling me your mechanic has more knowledge than the company that spent millions testing and designing the transmission? Drain the fluid and you'll see the damage thousands of miles does to the fluid
@@usvcrescuecrew9563 since car makers are the experts, why do the same car companies keep having the same problems? They are so smart and so great, yet look at all the transmission problems dodge and Nissan have. Hell, look at the problems Ford is having with the new broncos. But yes, they are the experts
@@anthonythompson4110 I just swapped out my Yukons transmission fluid and gave it so much improvement in shifting
@@anthonythompson4110 Humans still assemble most of the transmission so you will have some failures. Imagine building transmissions every day for a job. That would get old fast.
Although I do believe in flushing coolant, I do NOT believe in flushing the ATF. When I buy a new-to-me used vehicle with an automatic transmission, I drain the ATF (measure it so that I have a good starting point on the refill before adding any to top off), drop the pan, change the filter and refill. Then I start the engine and run it through the gears with the brake on so the new ATF is fully circulated.
Then I drive a short distance, drain (measure the amount drained) and refill.
Then I drive a short distance again using the same procedure. These repeated refills get MOST of the old fluid out.
After this, I drain & refill @ 30K miles WITHOUT changing the filter. As long as this scheduled frequency is followed, the filter will last the life of the car. The important thing is to change the filter after the break-in period.
All of my vehicles require the same OEM spec ATF which Valvoline MaxLife meets, as well as others. I make sure the replacement fluid is FULL SYNTHETIC.
I've been using this procedure for decades with no problems at all in any of my vehicles.
Thanks for a Great vid. Excellent suggestion to use an accurate torque wrench.
Now I want to see you team up with Scotty for a "I'm not screaming, you're screaming" vid
Scotty Kilmer plus ChrisFix equals this guy.
ChrisFix is a million miles above this guy
Not even close to either of the two.
Scotty has it .
This guy, plus tyler hoovie equals south main auto repair.
Exactly. He is pro like Chris and loud like Scotty.. :)
Very well done-- I like the idea your audio is clear, and narrative well-organized and smoothly delivered. Your lighting and camera angles are perfect-- no arms or shoulders to block the camera view. While some viewers complained about "shouting", a volume adjustment takes care of that, easily-- I would rather hear every word, than wonder what the narrator said at certain points. Best of all, you make clear where extra care is required. Of course, I subscribed.
Your video here is going to come in great use extremely soon like in a week because I’m having a little delay in drive engagement and reverse starting to not work. So this is my first attempt to fix it with the lowest cost. Much appreciate the detailed instructions of the process.
I change transmission fluid in all of my vehicles religiously. Usually it's drain and refill, partial change every other oil change.
Way to often. Every 50K is plenty.
Best to change filter and fluid on A/T every 30,000 miles. Using this method does help remove some of the converter fluid vs. a simple drain and refill. Auto makers might suggest 50,000 or even 100,000 between changes. Not a good idea. By the way, screaming at us is not recommended for the entire video.
But at least he hasn't started flailing his arms/hands around uncontrollably through the whole video as well yet.
Doing this method removes almost all the old fluid in the system if you let it drain until it comes out clean then you've replaced probably 98% of the old fluid with new fluid !!! The only thing that I don't agree with, Is letting it drain twice until you see bubbles !! Let it drain once and then add couple of gallons of fresh fluid and run until it comes out clean, this way you won't run the pump dry...shut off the engine and add more fluid until it comes up to the add mark on the dipstick, Then let it run until operating temperature check it again if It's anywhere between the hash marks on the stick then take it out and drive it for 15 or 20 minutes and check it again...if needed add more fluid to bring it up to the full mark !!
24 years later this vehicle is in such a great shape
yeah... after this video im convinced I dont need to change the fluid LOL.. Ill not spend 24 years with my car
Absolutely , the old fluid could ruin the transmission
To me the problem with a flush instead of drain and fill is that the filter does not get changed. When you go to oil change place they just flush in new fluid come out and don't replace the most important part the filter.
What happens is the flush process causes the filter to become so clogged that the fluid cannot pass through it. I've seen one where water could not even passed through it on a transmission that gave out
You need to change your oil change place, there is no way a sane person will change the oil and not the filter, they are done at the same time. I am still not sure if flushing a transmission is a good idea, however a flush comes with new transmission filter.
Best way to do a fluid change... I probably would have been filling while its draining tho, but thats just me... well done!
Drop the pan. Change the filter. Put the pan on. Add three quarts. Have adequate amount of new fluids ready to pour in the funnel in dipstick. Have the plastic tube in the oil container. as shown. Have someone start the engine. Immediately start pouring new fluid.
Shut off engine when you see the color of the new fluid in the hose. Put our line on. Top off fluid by adding and checking level slowly while engine is running in Park. You’re done.
I like the method you outlined the best, and it's exactly what I did on my last transmission fluid change. With my foot on the brake, I also moved the transmission from Park, to Reverse, to Neutral, to Drive, to D1, D2, D3, and back up to Park with the new fluid pumping out.
I'm going to disagree. It's better to get a good amount of the old fluid out of the trans. before changing the filter. If you don't you're running a lot old fluid thru the new filter.The way he did it is not a perfect way but it's certainly better than changing the filter before getting at least some of that old fluid out.
The best and biggest drain pan is one you can get for free!
Keep an eye out for old dishwashers at the curb on trash pickup day. Drag the thing home *if* it's a fully plastic tub interior. Leave the stainless steel ones where they sit...
Cut the tub free of the metal cage and supporting wires, tubes, and pipes. Place the bare dishwasher tub on its back. Now, look at were all the holes and penetrations are. You should be able to take a saws-all with a fine toothed blade and cut the tub 6" to a foot off the ground depending on the holes and the depth of the tub you need.
I use these DIY tubs everywhere... They're on shelves as catch-alls for small crap and parts. They make great wash basins. And, per this post, they excel at large-area drain pans for transmission fluid changes and such.
You're welcome!
Here's why his flush may have worked. The prevailing reason not to flush is because it may push dirty particles into areas that cannot tolerate any debris. This is primarily because pump machines may push ATF fluids in directions not normally in the transmission flow design. He used the vehicles pump to push the ATF with the flush. So the ATF was always pumped in the direction of designed flow at design pressures, thus reducing the chances that dirty fluid would get deposited in areas its not supposed to.
Thats why its generally a better option to change the fluid instead of flushing it. New fluid will not harm your tranny, it will actually help it. Its generally best to stay away from a "flush" service due to it being pushed like you said, containated "new" fluid being introduced after the filter, or a poor quality machine that may allow they tranny to run dry. Best best for the diy'er is simply to drop the pan, let as much fluid drain out as possible, and install a new filter.
Yes are you going to do a after transmission fluid change video to update us on the status of the fluid change and flush really interested in knowing how the performance of the transmission is now
So why did you say “doing this will destroy your transmission?’
Sometimes old transmissions can't handle the high viscosity of new fluid.
otherwise people won't bother to watch it! It's a tactic to draw attention so he can increase clicks and make some more money!!!
@@boripippi4424 just make sure it is topped every 6 months. The fluid keeps the metal part of the discs from ppeling away from the discs. New fluid will increase this process and the discs will start slippin and eventually your trans will be no good. Unless you plan on driving it for 700,000 miles. I didnt touch the tran fluid ever... If you have time to do nothing and throw away..do it.
BOB WADAS everything you said is wrong but thanks for playing.
@@boripippi4424 I think UA-cam is free, unless you pay for premium service. I do not think he makes money from UA-cam videos.
Flushed all mine in my 97 Jeep , 98 gmc 3500 and my 2000 Cadillac Escalade last year and brought them right back to life. Use them all equally roughly 200km a day for work.