My fuse block has an accessory key to where everything will go off with the key off. I guess I have to run a separate switch that will go to the reducer since my key and the dash is 48 volts now?
Is your 48v in on a switch of some kind? If not the converter is always drawing off the carts pack, even with no devices turned on. Some converters have a 5th wire that you run to your key switch to turn them on or off. You could also just put in a toggle switch or breaker.
I am new to this and trying to read up on busbars and converters. On your wiring, isn't the black input from the converter suppose to go directly to the battery negative. The other black 12v output goes to the fuse block. Does a fuse block take the place of a busbar, just giving you the added protection of a fuse?
Hi man, good video. Can you tell me what rating fuse you used for this converter, I'm guessing 10 amps because the converter is 12v 10amps, but if it's not, let me know. Or it depends on the device you are connecting.
May not be the most safe thing, the only fuse I had was a 30 amp fuse going to the converter. I would highly suggest a 10 amp fuse though, and I should have probably swapped mine out a long time ago... At the fuse box, I think the biggest one is 10 amps. Most are either three or five amps though for small LED lights, light strips, alarm.
Atleast run a 48 volt relay to the run position of the key to power that converter only when the key is on otherwise that thing is constantly converting 48 volts to 12 volts continuously running your battery down
That's not a converter it's a regulator. The problem is you are drawing 4 times the power you need to dumping it as heat. A buck converter would be much better.
A more powerful buck converter is on my wishlist. And it won't drain the battery as much, from what I'm told. Any suggestions on a buck converter? Something that can power a ton of accessories, lights and a winch too 😁
@@oftenwrongparadigm a winch is going to pull a lot of power. In electric cars the manufacturers have a separate 12v system with it's own battery. That's probably your best bet. lawnmower batteries are cheap. Then charge it with a 500w buck converter.
For physical size, the fuse holder will tell you what size it uses. For the amps, I would stick close to what the devise manufacturer says, or check it's "max draw" rate and go with that amp rating of a fuse. Going bigger on the amps just makes the fire risk go way up.
My fuse block has an accessory key to where everything will go off with the key off. I guess I have to run a separate switch that will go to the reducer since my key and the dash is 48 volts now?
That's what I did, put a switch between the 48v positive and the converter.
Instead of a switch put a solenoid. Wired to key switch
Is your 48v in on a switch of some kind? If not the converter is always drawing off the carts pack, even with no devices turned on. Some converters have a 5th wire that you run to your key switch to turn them on or off. You could also just put in a toggle switch or breaker.
Yep, I forgot to mention that in the video. I put a switch in between the fuse and the converter.
I am new to this and trying to read up on busbars and converters. On your wiring, isn't the black input from the converter suppose to go directly to the battery negative. The other black 12v output goes to the fuse block. Does a fuse block take the place of a busbar, just giving you the added protection of a fuse?
Yep, the fuse block I have is taking the place of a bus bar. All the negatives are tied together and attached to the last batteries negative terminal.
Hi man, good video. Can you tell me what rating fuse you used for this converter, I'm guessing 10 amps because the converter is 12v 10amps, but if it's not, let me know. Or it depends on the device you are connecting.
May not be the most safe thing, the only fuse I had was a 30 amp fuse going to the converter. I would highly suggest a 10 amp fuse though, and I should have probably swapped mine out a long time ago... At the fuse box, I think the biggest one is 10 amps. Most are either three or five amps though for small LED lights, light strips, alarm.
Atleast run a 48 volt relay to the run position of the key to power that converter only when the key is on otherwise that thing is constantly converting 48 volts to 12 volts continuously running your battery down
That is a good idea!
Did you install a relay with this system?
Not for this one. I put it on a switch instead. You can put it on a relay from the ignition switch.
That's not a converter it's a regulator. The problem is you are drawing 4 times the power you need to dumping it as heat. A buck converter would be much better.
A more powerful buck converter is on my wishlist. And it won't drain the battery as much, from what I'm told.
Any suggestions on a buck converter? Something that can power a ton of accessories, lights and a winch too 😁
@@oftenwrongparadigm a winch is going to pull a lot of power. In electric cars the manufacturers have a separate 12v system with it's own battery. That's probably your best bet. lawnmower batteries are cheap. Then charge it with a 500w buck converter.
Goodday .
How do you size the fuses?
For physical size, the fuse holder will tell you what size it uses. For the amps, I would stick close to what the devise manufacturer says, or check it's "max draw" rate and go with that amp rating of a fuse. Going bigger on the amps just makes the fire risk go way up.
@@oftenwrongparadigm thanks for the reply. Great work!