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Yep, there's a link in the description for the one I got. There may be other ones on Amazon or other websites also.

That I do not know. You may want to check buggies gone wild to see if anyone has a controller like yours. They might have manuals or something to help out. Good luck!

I think it can. I keep an eye out for suitable thinner rubber spacers. If I find some, I'll put a video up showing what I find.

Just want to double-check a few things, do you for sure have the Curtis controller in the cart? If so, is the cart turned on when you are attempting to use the Curtis 1314? Install the software in a Windows machine? In the software interface, selected the correct communications port for the controller programmer?

😂 yep, you are correct, tie rod, ball joint 👍. Call it a quirk of the channel. It's in the channel name. I'm not always the best example to follow. I have tried to get better with calling thingies and stuff the right name. It's not going well.

Haha, yeah those springs are no fun, they don't play fair.

Yep, good tip. Most garage doors can also be adjusted for their upper limits to pull the garage door up an extra inch or so.

Yeah, a modest amount. Made it feel a little lighter on its toes. Between the exhaust, k&n filter, and the tuner, it wasn't earth shattering, but made it more fun to drive. It got slightly better gas mileage, as long as I could keep my foot off the long skinny pedal.

@@oftenwrongparadigm great thanks🙏 I have a 4.7 with an Injen cold intake and did a muffler delete was thinking about buying an mbrp for my Jeep

If you get the programmer linked in the description, mine came with a CD-ROM and a USB flash drive with the program to access the module and make any changes you want. I would highly suggest keeping a log or notes of any changes you make, so you can quickly and easily change them back if there's a malfunction or an issue.

Did you get the batteries charged back up?

Yep, the Roykaw has 3 speeds.

That seems really low miles for bald tires. I'm at 2175 miles and the tread is still pretty good. Is your air pressure good? Not overloading it? I've gone back and forth a few times on the alignment on mine. I've had it set at a slight toe out for the past few months. Something like 1/2in toe out. I find it's stable in the straightaways and still corners well that way. toe in is going to wear the tires needlessly and make turning difficult. Neutral will be ok for general driving, but feels "floaty" to me. Slight toe out could slightly wear the tires going straight, but will save them in the corners, turning is easier. Too much toe out is going to wear the tires needlessly and make turning very snappy. If it's wear due to camber... we are all SOL on that one. It's not adjustable that I've found. Something is damaged and needs fixed.

Unfortunately, I didn't find one yet that didn't come from Bintelli. If I can figure out where the steering rack came from, that would help. It's not borrowed from the big 3 carts.

If you're within my carts driving distance, sure.

The good news is, yes I did find that controller is supported by this programmer. The bad news is, the software only runs on Windows. I bought the programmer listed down in the description of the video. If you select the right one, you'll see my channel's name review on Amazon. Not my best review work, but at least you'll know you have the right one.

Is the software available to download anywhere in the internet?

That's what I did, put a switch between the 48v positive and the converter.

Instead of a switch put a solenoid. Wired to key switch

Whoa, $229? That's a great price for a saw like this. Enjoy!

Glad to hear you found it helpful, even without the assembly. I'll remember this for the next one. Thanks!

It depends on the controller you have. If it's the curtis controller, there's a link to that one in the description. If it's one of the other controllers, there's a facebook group (ExCar/Bintelli/REVO) with a member (Gnarly Matt) that makes the cables. I think you then have to get the software from buggies gone wild or another source.

I wish. I have learned tossing the little snap pop's left over from the 4th of July in their direction clears them out pretty quick... I read this on the internet and certainly have not tried this a few times recently just to see if it really worked.

In my very brief research online, I kept seeing the radiant barrier needing to have an air gap to reflect the heat back to. I didn't really feel like getting into the science of radiant barriers, figuring out how to create that air gap correctly, and the science on foam seemed pretty straightforward. I might be interested in doing a comparison of the two. Grab a single roll and do half the door, see what the difference is from one side to the other. Now I'm wondering, would the radiant barrier foil taped to the interior side of the door, with the foam in the middle, make a big difference? Basically one big strip capping off the interior cavity of the door with the foam inside.

@@oftenwrongparadigm I don't know about the foil tape, but I do know I used the stuff that is basically like foil bubble wrap. I don't have any particular air gap beyond what it creates for itself. My setup is the metal of the door, the Radiant barrier and then the foam just right on top of it. I never measured it, but the overall temperature in my garage seemed quite a bit lower after the barrier than before. I'm down in Ga, so sometimes it is difficult to tell which is the bigger problem, the heat or the humidity. It certainly would be interesting to see if that actually makes a real difference or if it was just placebo.

​@@OmegaGamingNetwork I feel that humility! I'm just N/E of ya near Charleston, SC.

Yep, and space to work on projects, pursue hobbies, and relax. AKA, place for man to hide from woman.

Possibly. Depends on if you want to try to reuse or repurpose them. If not repurposing them later, you could cut them in half easily and remove them. They don't need glue or anything to hold them in place. If trying to repurpose them, you would need to be very careful when removing them. A pry bar half way up the panel should be able to create the same bend on the side to pop them out. But, each garage door will have slightly different measurements between the vertical bars. So, they may not be a great fit for the next door.

And using those contactless thermometers you MUST KNOW about thermal emissivity, that every metal that isn't painted is more like a mirror and you measure yourself or the room instead of what you point at, aluminium and copper is the absolute worst, even when looking very dull and matt a Thermal camera sees it as a mirror and it is very interesting to see 😅 One trick is to use black electrical tape or masking tape on shiny metals and surfaces. And always have a slight angle like 80° instead of 90 to prevent measuring yourself, but not too much. And also when your distance from the wall/door increases the area the temperature is measured over gets very large very quick, typical at 30cm away is 5-10 cm diameter circle but at one meter or more you measure the average of maybe 60-100 cm diameter! It's listed in the manual or maybe on the sides of the termometer. If you doo a lot around the home for improving insulation and airtightness i recommend buing a infiRay P2 Pro thermal camera module for your phone, it shows EVERYTHING! at a high detail for air leak and thermal insulation problems

Excellent information! I've been considering a thermal camera. I'll check this one out. I like cool toys :)

I know I need to replace the weatherstrip around the door too. I've been getting some bugs in the garage the past couple years. The past year I've been getting gecko's and anole's in the garage. They keep me company and help keep the bug population down.

WHOA! Your ice cubes don't stand a chance! can you create shade on the outside?

I used the Insulfoam Garage Door Insulation Kit. Here's a link to it: www.lowes.com/pd/Insulfoam-Common-1-25-in-x-1-6875-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-1-25-in-x-1-6875-ft-x-4-5-ft-Garage-Door-Insulation-Kit-1-R-4-8-Faced-Polystyrene-Garage-Door-Foam-Board-Insulation/50244957

Yep, that surprised me too! Totally worth it, HUGE difference!

Haha, yeah... That's on the list of things to do as well!

Thanks! Happy 4th!

I guess that depends on what you are breaking... There are parts available. The dealer parts prices are insane though. With enough looking around, I've been able to source a few parts I've needed, without going to the stealership for them. Parts are out there, they are. Just not as mainstream and plentiful as the big 3 parts are. Some parts from the big 3 to fit and work well. Trial and error on those though.

Have you double checked the controller to make sure you have the correct programmer? or, tried variations of the cart being off or on when you plug it in?

You're using the wrong program more than likely. I have an 2024 Evolution D5 Ranger 4 with a 400-C controller and you need specific software for that particular controller. Even though the cables do work for other model controllers besides the Curtis controller, it will not connect. Look at the type of controller you have and post here. I got my cart from 25mph to 32mph with just adjusting the high to 5650rpm. Max rpm for my motor is 6000. It's a good idea not to max the rpm out. As stated in the video, make small changes and test drive. Take video or photos of original and new changes. Always document...

For physical size, the fuse holder will tell you what size it uses. For the amps, I would stick close to what the devise manufacturer says, or check it's "max draw" rate and go with that amp rating of a fuse. Going bigger on the amps just makes the fire risk go way up.

@@oftenwrongparadigm thanks for the reply. Great work!

That controller I don't know much about. The guy I know who makes cables hasn't mentioned that brand as something he can make. Check the Buggies Gone Wild forum for that cart/controller. There may be someone with hands on experience with them. Good luck!

That's not good. I'll do a vid this week (hopefully) showing how to get to the reservoir. I've not seen mine but hope it has a dot fluid number on the cap to assist... otherwise, I'll put in what I have.

@@oftenwrongparadigm Very good! I’ll be on the lookout for it. Thank you for responding so quickly. 😉👍

Agreed, gotta be a way. If a dealer can do it, someone else has found a way to do it on their own. Good luck!

You're welcome, glad I could help!

Those aren't fans... but that is a good idea. Those are some wake tower speakers for a boat or ATV. They work pretty good for budget speakers and amp. There's a vid on the channel page for the "noam speakers" if you are interested. OK for the price, considering it's many hundreds of dollars for "good" quality wake tower speakers and then more $$$ for an amp. I may upgrade one of these days. But a fan or 2 would be nice when sitting without a breeze. I may look into a 12v fan... like the ones in the old school busses.

Sorry to hear you didn't have an easy time with it. If there's issues with the parts, for sure take it back, try another one. Hopefully there aren't issues with the replacement. Good luck!

The instructions are about the worst!!

Gotta love the math! I'm keeping my eyes open for some spacers that will fit the rear roof to about half of what the factory ones are. That should be enough for me to not rub the door when going in/out.

That controller I don't know much about. The guy I know who makes cables hasn't mentioned that brand as something he can make. Check the Buggies Gone Wild forum for that cart/controller. There may be someone with hands on experience with them. Good luck!

Did you find software for yours? If not I have it.