I do have this machine and have been using it for about two months. Still very new to machining. I have found this machine to be very easy to use after 3 years of UA-cam instruction. Thanks for your instruction. Oh, I do have a DRO on mine too.
I had originally planned on my first hobby shop mill being a PM-25, however after watching your & others unboxing, setup, and DRO install, purchased the PM-728V-T. Saved my $ for a long time and this was a retirement present to myself. Thanks for you videos, they inform and educate.
Thank you for posting this video. I picked up a PM728vt back late last year, and just go around to installing it (in September of 2021). I got held up on welding a table for it. At the time of purchase, the factory DRO was not going to be available for months, so I bought a third-party DRO. I really needed to see how the Factory version of the DRO was installed to help me formulate a strategy for bracket design. This video was a great help for me. I suspect I am not the only person who picked up a third-party DRO due to the delays in getting the PM version of it.
I should send you a wax pencil and assist you like people have helped me become a more precise wood butcher. When metal cutting I prefer a cutting torch as I need a little slop because getting too precise gives me more headaches from nothing I design lining up to the holes.
Nice DRO Install, good to see how the PM kit goes. I'm preparing to put CNC on mine, also with their kit (but lots of other things needed for that). Great tool for reloading and other projects.
Nice video Gavin. Don't worry about the winers. They will either go away or will get what your channel is about! Thanks for the time and effort you put into your channel content and take care.
That DRO is not only going to make machining to high tolerances a lot easier/quicker, but its going to SPOIL YOU ROTTEN!! Oh, yeah...no backlash/slack in your measurements is a WONDROUS THING!! Now, I'm jealous of your Milling machine, as I like it a LOT more than the worn out old Grizzly I have (but it DOES have a DRO on it!) BTW, just a weird stray thought, but back in my early ARMY days, "DRO" stood for Dining Room Orderly---kind of a nice way of saying that you were on KP but got to hang out in the dining area instead of beiing a slave in the actual kitchen!!!!
Was that cheaper than the one you can buy with it from PM? I'm currently looking at the the 728VT. Would like the DRO too, but the upgrade is pretty pricey.
Just received my 728 a few days ago. It is confirmed pre drilled for the PM DRO. If you plan on using the DRO from PM as seen here, order the machine with it, as the price is the same, or a little more if you purchase and install it yourself.
I would raise the DRO head up higher. Understand the limitations of the mounting locations. That said, modify the bracket so you have a better line of sight to the readouts. Plus, will help keep chips, coolant, and cutting fluids away from the display. I too liked having the DRO head on the left side of the machine. Right hand on any knee mill does a LOT of work. If you decide to keep the DRO head in its present location, I would add another arm mounting a piece of plexi-glass to act as a movable shield. Again, this shield is to protect the face of the DRO.
I Was shooting for a PM-25 MV but I guess I will save the extra grand and go with the 728VT. It looks like a much more ridged machine and how does the saying go "Cry once, Buy once" The CNC conversion will have to wait a bit.Nice video's.
I saw on PTGs website reloading die blanks that can be custom chambered with your rifle’s exact reamer. Is there a potential big difference between a full custom reloading die with your exact chamber, a high end factory reloading die, and an Inexpensive reloading die? Could be a cool test vid. Love all the metal working vids and the gunsmithing vids!
I love watching your videos. I already have a Mill with DRO but still learn things. It looks like your shop is in a Sea Container. If so, is it insulated? How do you heat or cool it? Or do you live where heating and cooling is unnecessary?
This is rapidly becoming my first choice for a home hobby milling machine. I worry that it is too much and wonder if there is something a bit smaller, but of equal quality?
The PM728vt comes from the factory with a DRO which reads how much the quill has moved. So, that separate position is already covered. This does mean that TOTAL Z is the combination of head position, plus the Quill position. Normally for Milling operations, you will have the quill ALL they way up for greater rigidity. The quill is often only used for drilling operations.
Gavin, thanks for both 728 videos. Purchased machine based on your reviews. I'm happy with both mill and dro, but do did not include instructions for 728 specific hardware. Called PM tech support and gentlemen said there is no manual available. Could you possibly forward the instructions you received from PM to me?
Why not attach DRO to the plunger ? Main column does not have micro adjustment so its practically useless to hold DRO, especially when plunger has its own display. Kinda weird.
This looks awesome! I'm looking at buying one of these mills, how do you think the rigidity compares to a Bridgeport? Can you give me some typical depth of cut in different materials for this thing? Thanks!
I got the DRO supplied with the PM14x40BV lathe and find display referenced to XY and Z. However there are only two encoders. I've always thought (I'm on my 4th lathe) that the lathe was a 2axis device. Especially if they only have two linear encoders. I've tried to get PM to take this DRO back and get me a true 2 axis DRO. They refuse. I've installed DROs on two lathes and had good service. The PM DRO has for some reason chosen to use the Z display for one of the axis normally known as the X Y display. Not very happy with this thing.
@@stufields5125 As one example, I have to do 3 lead threading sometimes. So, it looks like a 24 Threads per inch thread, but it is really an 8 turns per inch thread which has three stacked threads. It makes for a rapidly tightening/loosening pitch, but does not require the Meat (thickness) of material as a normal 8 threads per inch. The compound is rotated parallel with the ways, and after the first of the three threads are cut, the compound is offset by 1/3rd of 1/8th of an inch 0.0466 inch)... and the next thread is cut, then the compound is adjusted again by 0.0466, and the third thread is cut. I also use it when I am doing tapered conical fittings, and need to hit a precise depth for a taper before the transition. If you are not doing complex threads, or precision brass high-pressure tapered fittings, then I can understand why you don't see the value in having a digital compound. I find that a lot of machinists only set up their compound to do cutting infrequently.
Wow so a DRO only tells you the precise measurements where to drill holes😕 I thought it was for programming cuts and holes, then you press the start button and it makes the piece on it's own. Which machine is that in which you're able to program it and it does it in it's own please? Thx
DRO (Digital Read Out) vs: CNC (Computer Numerical Control). Your DRO tells you where action starts, progresses and finishes. Your CNC controls the actions (motorized feeding rather than manual hand feeding) specifically where the milling/cutting starts, progresses and finishes. You can purchase and install optional power feeds for your mill that will perform those (XYZ) CNC functions. I hope that helps. mikey
I'm planning to buy my 1st milling machine, with zero metal working experience. and obviously my budget is limiting my choices, but I would rather stretch the budget than make a purchase I would regret. my 1st metal product is small, mostly aluminum and some 3 inch long mild steel bars to end mill / face mill. so yes I could just buy the smallest hobbyist milling machine and it would suffice for now. but knowing the reality, I will soon want to face mill 2 feet x 1 foot metal plates and so on. that's how I found your channel and great advices. definitely you deserve subscribing, which I did I live in Asia so I don;t have an easy access to the exact model you presented, but I think I found its twin, who knows it is not as well made as yours. now I need to make that call and hurt my wallet. should I buy DRO right away or can it wait? it looks like I want it now, but it's optional and costs extra USD 350++ cheers!
Here's your next non reloading project, forget blair's comment below lol, Form 1 a suppressor and build it "soup to nuts". Tube, threads, end cap, adapter or direct thread, and mill the baffles.....
Well...If most reloaders are like a lot of them I KNOW, they are also interested in machining techniques and gadgets, too. So I can see why this vid would likely be of interest to that kinda person!
Indeed. Wtf is up with the basically commercial-grade equipment lately? Anyone whi can afford and know how to use this stuff doesnt need to watch a YT vid on it: they are already in the know. I fail to see what a milling machine has to do with reloading.
If you guys want to know what this channel is about, it's here: ua-cam.com/users/Ultimatereloaderabout --> "GavinToobe is all about Ammunition Reloading, Gunsmithing, Shooting/Guns, Metal Work, and everything in between! "
I do have this machine and have been using it for about two months. Still very new to machining. I have found this machine to be very easy to use after 3 years of UA-cam instruction. Thanks for your instruction. Oh, I do have a DRO on mine too.
I had originally planned on my first hobby shop mill being a PM-25, however after watching your & others unboxing, setup, and DRO install, purchased the PM-728V-T.
Saved my $ for a long time and this was a retirement present to myself.
Thanks for you videos, they inform and educate.
Thank you for posting this video. I picked up a PM728vt back late last year, and just go around to installing it (in September of 2021). I got held up on welding a table for it. At the time of purchase, the factory DRO was not going to be available for months, so I bought a third-party DRO. I really needed to see how the Factory version of the DRO was installed to help me formulate a strategy for bracket design. This video was a great help for me. I suspect I am not the only person who picked up a third-party DRO due to the delays in getting the PM version of it.
Glad to help, enjoy your 728V-T!
All laid out like someone that started out building models by following the instructions, well done.
It's about mindset, right? :)
I generally measure with a micrometer and mark it with a piece of chalk and then cut it with a chain saw! Great video!
MAN!! You are so ADVANCED!! I usually use my stone axe for cutting stuff.
That’s the only way
I should send you a wax pencil and assist you like people have helped me become a more precise wood butcher. When metal cutting I prefer a cutting torch as I need a little slop because getting too precise gives me more headaches from nothing I design lining up to the holes.
@@michaelweymouth4015 Ha! Ha!
lol! "First surprise" was exactly what I noticed, I was expecting the display to be plastic housed.
Nice DRO Install, good to see how the PM kit goes. I'm preparing to put CNC on mine, also with their kit (but lots of other things needed for that). Great tool for reloading and other projects.
Awesome- good luck with the conversion. Keep me posted!
Nice video Gavin. Don't worry about the winers. They will either go away or will get what your channel is about! Thanks for the time and effort you put into your channel content and take care.
That DRO is not only going to make machining to high tolerances a lot easier/quicker, but its going to SPOIL YOU ROTTEN!! Oh, yeah...no backlash/slack in your measurements is a WONDROUS THING!! Now, I'm jealous of your Milling machine, as I like it a LOT more than the worn out old Grizzly I have (but it DOES have a DRO on it!) BTW, just a weird stray thought, but back in my early ARMY days, "DRO" stood for Dining Room Orderly---kind of a nice way of saying that you were on KP but got to hang out in the dining area instead of beiing a slave in the actual kitchen!!!!
Nice DRO. I installed a TOAUTO 3 axis from Amazon. On my 728 vt and also made a power feed for my Z axes. Your DRO looks Great!
Was that cheaper than the one you can buy with it from PM? I'm currently looking at the the 728VT. Would like the DRO too, but the upgrade is pretty pricey.
DROs even on a drill press (with XY Table) save a *lot* of time and result in great precision. Break even at
Just received my 728 a few days ago. It is confirmed pre drilled for the PM DRO. If you plan on using the DRO from PM as seen here, order the machine with it, as the price is the same, or a little more if you purchase and install it yourself.
I cnc retrofit mine. Some double nut ballscrews and with closed loop 12 nm nema 34 servo steppers.
I would raise the DRO head up higher. Understand the limitations of the mounting locations. That said, modify the bracket so you have a better line of sight to the readouts. Plus, will help keep chips, coolant, and cutting fluids away from the display.
I too liked having the DRO head on the left side of the machine. Right hand on any knee mill does a LOT of work.
If you decide to keep the DRO head in its present location, I would add another arm mounting a piece of plexi-glass to act as a movable shield. Again, this shield is to protect the face of the DRO.
I Was shooting for a PM-25 MV but I guess I will save the extra grand and go with the 728VT. It looks like a much more ridged machine and how does the saying go "Cry once, Buy once" The CNC conversion will have to wait a bit.Nice video's.
All the fun stuff I wish I could have looks great thanks 😊👍
The machine looks very good 👌.
It looks like the shield reduces the y axis travel by about 1 in. ?
I saw on PTGs website reloading die blanks that can be custom chambered with your rifle’s exact reamer. Is there a potential big difference between a full custom reloading die with your exact chamber, a high end factory reloading die, and an Inexpensive reloading die? Could be a cool test vid. Love all the metal working vids and the gunsmithing vids!
Thanks man!!! In some cases, a custom die is definitely what you want (benchrest, etc). I should be doing some of that content in the next year...
I love watching your videos. I already have a Mill with DRO but still learn things.
It looks like your shop is in a Sea Container. If so, is it insulated? How do you heat or cool it? Or do you live where heating and cooling is unnecessary?
Is there a reason people don't attach the Z axis directly to the quill
Would love to see you use your mill and DRO to mill an 80% AR lower.
This is rapidly becoming my first choice for a home hobby milling machine. I worry that it is too much and wonder if there is something a bit smaller, but of equal quality?
Dude !! I'm 6'4"!!!, but you made me feel 5'2" you went so far over my head !!!😂😂but I promised I watch all your videos👍👍👍👍keep em coming 😁
:) Thanks for watching!
Would love to see more shooting from the Dasher!
Great suggestion, I need to get that rifle out again!
I don’t see how the DRO reads the quill on the Z access. What am I missing?
The PM728vt comes from the factory with a DRO which reads how much the quill has moved. So, that separate position is already covered. This does mean that TOTAL Z is the combination of head position, plus the Quill position. Normally for Milling operations, you will have the quill ALL they way up for greater rigidity. The quill is often only used for drilling operations.
Gavin, thanks for both 728 videos. Purchased machine based on your reviews. I'm happy with both mill and dro, but do did not include instructions for 728 specific hardware. Called PM tech support and gentlemen said there is no manual available. Could you possibly forward the instructions you received from PM to me?
Why not attach DRO to the plunger ?
Main column does not have micro adjustment so its practically useless to hold DRO, especially when plunger has its own display.
Kinda weird.
This looks awesome! I'm looking at buying one of these mills, how do you think the rigidity compares to a Bridgeport? Can you give me some typical depth of cut in different materials for this thing? Thanks!
I got the DRO supplied with the PM14x40BV lathe and find display referenced to XY and Z. However there are only two encoders. I've always thought (I'm on my 4th lathe) that the lathe was a 2axis device. Especially if they only have two linear encoders. I've tried to get PM to take this DRO back and get me a true 2 axis DRO. They refuse.
I've installed DROs on two lathes and had good service. The PM DRO has for some reason chosen to use the Z display for one of the axis normally known as the X Y display. Not very happy with this thing.
I have a Compound DRO as well, and have found it useful. Consider adding a Compound scale, if you can find a non-interfering space.
@@addertooth1 I'm having trouble imagining any operation that I would find that animal enabling any positive effect.
@@stufields5125 As one example, I have to do 3 lead threading sometimes. So, it looks like a 24 Threads per inch thread, but it is really an 8 turns per inch thread which has three stacked threads. It makes for a rapidly tightening/loosening pitch, but does not require the Meat (thickness) of material as a normal 8 threads per inch.
The compound is rotated parallel with the ways, and after the first of the three threads are cut, the compound is offset by 1/3rd of 1/8th of an inch 0.0466 inch)... and the next thread is cut, then the compound is adjusted again by 0.0466, and the third thread is cut. I also use it when I am doing tapered conical fittings, and need to hit a precise depth for a taper before the transition.
If you are not doing complex threads, or precision brass high-pressure tapered fittings, then I can understand why you don't see the value in having a digital compound. I find that a lot of machinists only set up their compound to do cutting infrequently.
Great Stuff like always! What Hex screwdrivers are you using here? Or, I should ask what hex screwdrivers do you recommend?
Those are Bondhus Hex Drivers
Wow so a DRO only tells you the precise measurements where to drill holes😕 I thought it was for programming cuts and holes, then you press the start button and it makes the piece on it's own. Which machine is that in which you're able to program it and it does it in it's own please? Thx
DRO (Digital Read Out) vs: CNC (Computer Numerical Control). Your DRO tells you where action starts, progresses and finishes. Your CNC controls the actions (motorized feeding rather than manual hand feeding) specifically where the milling/cutting starts, progresses and finishes. You can purchase and install optional power feeds for your mill that will perform those (XYZ) CNC functions. I hope that helps. mikey
What did you use to level the scales, a indicator, level or eyeball it?
Aligned to table (X), measured with calipers (Y), and used machine movement (Z) to align!
I'm planning to buy my 1st milling machine, with zero metal working experience.
and obviously my budget is limiting my choices, but I would rather stretch the budget than make a purchase I would regret.
my 1st metal product is small, mostly aluminum and some 3 inch long mild steel bars to end mill / face mill.
so yes I could just buy the smallest hobbyist milling machine and it would suffice for now.
but knowing the reality, I will soon want to face mill 2 feet x 1 foot metal plates and so on.
that's how I found your channel and great advices. definitely you deserve subscribing, which I did
I live in Asia so I don;t have an easy access to the exact model you presented, but I think I found its twin, who knows it is not as well made as yours.
now I need to make that call and hurt my wallet.
should I buy DRO right away or can it wait? it looks like I want it now, but it's optional and costs extra USD 350++
cheers!
Did you have a location you grounded the DRO unit to?
Thanks for the reminder! I need to check that...
Here's your next non reloading project, forget blair's comment below lol, Form 1 a suppressor and build it "soup to nuts". Tube, threads, end cap, adapter or direct thread, and mill the baffles.....
I would LOVE to publish that- but I don't think YT would allow it :(
Anyone got one of these in Australia? Or something similar?
I think I wish I had your money! 🤣
looks like the kit from DroPros.
👍👍
nice, but Gavin...hundreds of $ of kit and you use a hammer that could have built the ARK lol
A nice ball peen hammer would be perfect lol
you mean 2 ten thousands
Around here "thenths" and "ten thousandths" are synonyms :)
👍😀👌❤️🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻
1
I thought this was a reloading channel?
Well...If most reloaders are like a lot of them I KNOW, they are also interested in machining techniques and gadgets, too. So I can see why this vid would likely be of interest to that kinda person!
That's right Don! Reloading, Gunsmithing, Metalworking. Skip the content you're not interested in. Wow, that was easy 😀😀😀
This used to be a reloading program. Not so much anymore. Time to unsubscribe.
Indeed. Wtf is up with the basically commercial-grade equipment lately? Anyone whi can afford and know how to use this stuff doesnt need to watch a YT vid on it: they are already in the know. I fail to see what a milling machine has to do with reloading.
If you guys want to know what this channel is about, it's here: ua-cam.com/users/Ultimatereloaderabout --> "GavinToobe is all about Ammunition Reloading, Gunsmithing, Shooting/Guns, Metal Work, and everything in between! "
@@John_Redcorn_ Milling Machines are quite useful in gunsmithing. Sometimes you need more than a hand drill and a file to achieve specific outcomes.